There's so much about that video that resonates well with me. These small tool boxes with perfect foam inserts for shop made tools, the meticulous execution of both the work and the video production, respect! Plus: about 20 years ago, I started off with metal working with what appears to be a very similar "mill", which was basically a Proxxon spindle with a cross table. I loved how quiet it was. I'm astonished what size projects you manage to do with it.
Thanks for your feedback! This is a cut knurling tool. It is different from the form knurling tools which are more often seen on youtube. I made this tool by myself and also made a video on the build process if you are interested.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Please do post the video of the cut knurling tool build. Is there any reason you do the knurl cuts dry instead of using cutting oil?
@@nrml76 here is the link to the video:ua-cam.com/video/vj8pp3YJijg/v-deo.html When using cutting oil, you have to have plenty of it to wash the chips away. I don't want that mess of a flood coolent so I leave it try. So far it works :)
I gotta say, I'm really impressed!! That came out really good! I absolutely love the design, it's well thought out and will work really well from the looks of it, I love it, beautiful work my friend!
Quienes hemos trabajado con máquinas herramientas , como es mi caso, videos como este nos hacen disfrutar, su projecto y ejecución, demuestran el buen hacer de este MAESTRO, gracias por mostrarnos tan elegante a la vez practica herramienta
Hi. Wie immer, hast du gute Ideen und die sind immer begleitet von sauberer und präziser Ausführung. Echt super. Weiter so.👍 Alles gute und bleib gesund.
Gutten Cut! I don't recall you showing the ER32 collet chuck before so congratulations with a new toy! And just between us, it's a live center, not a life center. Oh, and one more thing: every time you sneeze the chips out from a just-cut hole, I cannot help but picturing Herr Messi who hasn't been starring your videos for quite a while. How're his veegets? You should star him more often.
Hi and thanks for your kind comment! Yes, the collet chuck is new to my lathe. I use it now relatively often, very useful :) And thanks for the hint with the live center. I wanted to write revolving center in the video but forgot to correct.. :/ :D Haha, I will bring him back for sure ;) He was actually in the latest video about electro etching but almost no one watched it.. :)
Estupendo accesorio para este tipo de trabajos, me gustarìa ver el plano de este tope de husillo con sus respectivas medidas, gracias por la informaciòn.
Once again, awesome execution. Love watching how methodical you are in your design and approach to your projects. I too am curious about your ER32 collet chuck. Looks like a good one. I'm looking to replace the Ebay special one I have as the runout is terrible. Would love to hear where you got yours. Thanks for the video! :)
You can usually "Touch Up" the collet chuck once it is mounted on the lathe with the lathe it's-self. Have you verified it is mounted concentric? Have you checked each of the individual collets themselves for concentricity? -- Do This -> Mount the chuck as central as you can, then set your compound to the correct angle of your collet system, then take a very light skim cut, now you are perfect! (Maybe use a Dremel mounted on the tool post and grind in the correct surface finish). Make several registration marks so you can get back to this concentricity after removal + replacement.. Voila!
Hi and thanks for your kind comment! The ER collet chuck I use is from GG-Tools in Germany. I tried 3 different chucks from ebay and elsewhere, all with horrible runouts. This one I got now has an excellent runout. But it seems that something in the manufacturing process went wrong. The chuck is totally coated including all the functional surfaces. That is not normal. All the functional surfaces should be ground after heat treatment and coating. I called the supplier but he doesn't want to see any problem with the product. So that's for your information. The runout is excellent, the coating and the support is questionable.
@@WeCanDoThatBetterWow, that's rare in Europe. The behaviour of the company I mean. I once bought a machinist square (plain, no foot) from MiB Germany, 01 class supposedly. It wasn't even in 02. When I moved it along my flat stones grinding marks revealed. Ondulations (waves) typical for Chinese factories where a part is ran through a surface grinder too fast. I reported everything to the company and got a middle finger. I used the square as a DIY kit. I had to correct it myself.
Thanks for your comment! Yes, I guess that was the case. Unfortunately the little proxxon mill doesn't run lower than 900 rpm. So I almost had no other option than ruining the sawblade :)
Very nice design, work and video. Really great sound quality too. Have you found that "ER" type collets work poorly (poor grip strength, poor concentricity etc.) if the part is shorter than the collet's over all length? How will you deal with very short, perhaps small diameter parts? Will you need an assortment of stop rods or stop rod ends with diameters that match the part diameter? Cheers, F.C.
During the making process shown in the video, he uses a piece (an offcut) of same diameter stuff when he is gripping on a short length in the collet. The backstop does not care if it touches this offcut or the stock itself. A single stop rod of a single diameter will do for everything. Use a dab of superglue to hold the offcut to the end of the stop rod while the finished part is removed and the new stock is inserted. The only time it might be necessary to modify it is if he wants to grip a hollow tube whose ID is greater than the stop rod's 'natural' OD.
@@darryllcrook376 Ah......so, an assortment of stop rod ends (offcuts). Brilliant. I hope the collet concentricity will be adequate if/when non-nominal part diameters are held by nominal diameter collets. Maybe switch to a 3-jaw chuck with soft jaws bored to suit? Thank you, F.C.
As you see in the video when I made the long arbor, I inserted a shorter piece of the same diameter to support the collet. I'm thinking about making a thread onto the stop rod, so that I can screw on different tips with different diameters when I have to support a collet.
Yes, thanks for your explanation. I think the "standard" stop rod will do fine for the first time. Perhaps I will make some exchangable tips for it which get screwed on to the rod at some point in the future.
Very nice work! Myself, on my best day, I'd just slop something together asap and move on, but I've got to admit that it's a thing of beauty and it totally works! Not to mention that it had to have been a fun project. Thanks for sharing! 🙂
Could you share your thoughts about collet chucks. What would you advise a fresh hobby machinist? Where should a hobby machinist place such a chuck in the upgrades/shopping list? Let's say the freshman only has the lathe with basic set of cutters, only 3 jaw chuck and a dial indicator and calipers :)
You can go far with a three jaw chuck. I would recommend to first upgrade to an independent 4 jaw chuck. These are really versatile for large and small workpieces and give you excellent runout when dialed in correctly. A collet chuck makes work easier when you have a lot of parts to do with the same diameter. It usually runs a lot more true than a 3 jaw chuck and changes of workpieces are a lot quicker than on a 4 jaw chuck. So, it is not necessary in the first place but on some point later it is a good investion.
Such an amazing job! New sub here for sure! If I may suggest one thing: machine a point/ballpoint at the end of the stopping rod for repeatability! Greg
Hey bro, what do you think about making a screw pass marker, so the rewind becomes obsolete, well that's a hypothesis you might be making, right now, great video, greetings from 🇧🇷🇧🇷
Thanks for your comment! That was probably the problem, but the proxxon mill doesn't go lower than that. For HSS that was too much I guess :) You mean no oil?
The rod doesn't have to be exactly the diameter of the collet. There are some cases, when the part is too short to go deep enough into the collet, where the stop needs to be the same size to support the collet when clamped. I think I will machine a thread into the bar so I can screw on different sized tips.
11:17 Reduce speed (if possible) 50% and enter for the first cut 2/3 the width of the knurling tool cutting face. Enter first cut with the machine off and engage feed quickly after turning on the spindle. This is not to say that this knurl is of poor quality, far from it. It's a good looking knurl!
What a great video. You always do a great job. Your idea is very useful for machinist. Do you have prints you are willing to share or sell? Thanks for your efforts that you take to produce these excellent videos.
Nice work, but dude, I really had to turn down 5he volume because of your chatter. Please adjust feeds, and speeds. Use heavy cutting oil with your knurling and doit as slow an RPM your machine allows. A Blackwoods pocket edition black book for your cutting speeds and feeds are cheap and very handy.
Thanks for your feedback! Yes, could have done this better. Especially the internal turning operation sang like crazy sometimes. You mean even slower for knurling? I have to look the right speeds up. It is cut knurling and not form knurling. This might be different.
You do very good work...but no offence when I say when your knurling and drilling that I've seen you should be using oil especially when knurling helps flush the the small swarf chips away so it doesn't recut the chips into the work..
he ER collet chuck I use is from GG-Tools in Germany. I tried 3 different chucks from ebay and elsewhere, all with horrible runouts. This one I got now has an excellent runout. But it seems that something in the manufacturing process went wrong. The chuck is totally coated including all the functional surfaces. That is not normal. All the functional surfaces should be ground after heat treatment and coating. I called the supplier but he doesn't want to see any problem with the product. So that's for your information. The runout is excellent, the coating and the support is questionable.
I'm not saying I know better, because I certainly don't. Couldn't you just have started with a thick walled pipe and saved time and material? Or would sourcing the pipe be more effort than just grabbing some material already on hand? Regardless, you've earned a subscription! Very well made video!
You are likely right on both points... Pipe would be better work wise, but high alloy pipe aint found cheap nor oft... Its much easier to slurp up a piece from your stash and deal with it adequately to manifest the design... He likely coulda carburized and hardened the pipe to make it a worthwhile piece of steel, but that woulda deformed the pipe like a car wreck and make it unworkable to anything but grinders at that wall thickness in a way... Starting with a piece of high alloy steel like chrome molybdenum steel gives you a piece with decent wear characteristics, resistance to oxidation to a some extent and so on...
Hi and thanks for your comment and for subscribing! I really do appreciate that. In this case where the part in the end is basically a thin wall tube, starting from a piece of tubing would be great. I wanted a kind of hard tool steel for this purpose and I don't know if this is even produced as a tubing. And I had this cutoff flying around from a former project, so I don't had to buy something new :) But yes, removing so much metal in tough steel on the windy lathe is a little bit painful ;)
1.5 There are some that are taught to use a comma for a decimal point. I've no idea why but I've seen it often enough over the years that either way registers the same automatically lol.
Its a single and a half degree taper, so in essence, a very steep taper with minimal change of dimension over the length to achieve an immense leverage effect, also locks hard as fuck, as was seen with him having to smack the tapers apart... Its also colloquially known as mandrel taper, as most machinist mandrels rely on such shallow tapers for location and retention... I dont know where you found the zeroes after the 1.5, but lets say that the protractor shoulda explained that 1.5 degrees refers to angular offset of the cut...
I meant a 1 and a half degree of angle on the compound slide, actually resulting in a 3 degree total taper. Meaning it is a very shallow taper but it's enough to squeeze the mandrel firmly in place and lock the device in the spindle.
Such an excellent design, expertly made and beautifully filmed. Thank you for sharing. 👏👏👍😀
Thank you for your kind comment! I really do appreciate that!
That comment was very well put and I so much agree!
There's so much about that video that resonates well with me. These small tool boxes with perfect foam inserts for shop made tools, the meticulous execution of both the work and the video production, respect! Plus: about 20 years ago, I started off with metal working with what appears to be a very similar "mill", which was basically a Proxxon spindle with a cross table. I loved how quiet it was. I'm astonished what size projects you manage to do with it.
I’m starting myself with a small metal lathe (Proxxon PD230). Any advice where/how to start with? Cheers
I have never seen knurles used that way. Cool! Awesome work and great video.
Thanks for your feedback! This is a cut knurling tool. It is different from the form knurling tools which are more often seen on youtube. I made this tool by myself and also made a video on the build process if you are interested.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Please do post the video of the cut knurling tool build. Is there any reason you do the knurl cuts dry instead of using cutting oil?
@@nrml76 here is the link to the video:ua-cam.com/video/vj8pp3YJijg/v-deo.html
When using cutting oil, you have to have plenty of it to wash the chips away. I don't want that mess of a flood coolent so I leave it try. So far it works :)
thanks for notha vid! lights, action, camera, timing, edit, focus, filmography, there great.
Thank you so much for your kind feedback! I really do appreciate that! :)
What a beautiful little accessory for the lathe
Thank you very much! :)
I gotta say, I'm really impressed!! That came out really good! I absolutely love the design, it's well thought out and will work really well from the looks of it, I love it, beautiful work my friend!
Thank you so much for your kind comment! I really do appreciate that! Happy to hear, you like my work.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter You earned it! I'm a new subscriber too and really enjoy your content, thank you!
Very Well planned and executed quality project.The knurler works very well.Thank you
Thanks for your feedback! The cut knurler makes beautiful knurls, it's sometimes a bit chattery :)
Absolutely beautiful tool
Thank you very much!
Wirklich sehr aufwändig und schön gemachtes Zubehör.
как 1:05 😅😅😅😅
Quienes hemos trabajado con máquinas herramientas , como es mi caso, videos como este nos hacen disfrutar, su projecto y ejecución, demuestran el buen hacer de este MAESTRO, gracias por mostrarnos tan elegante a la vez practica herramienta
Автор мастер! Вот это я понимаю самоделки! Ни чуть не хуже заводского решения! И красиво, и всё по уму!
Логика компьютерного перевода, сломает себе голову.
Hi. Wie immer, hast du gute Ideen und die sind immer begleitet von sauberer und präziser Ausführung. Echt super.
Weiter so.👍
Alles gute und bleib gesund.
Vielen Dank dir für den netten Kommentar! :) Freut mich!
Such an great design! You did very well. 👍👍
Thank you so much! Yes, I'm really happy with how it turned out.
Masterpiece, I am intoxicated
Gutten Cut!
I don't recall you showing the ER32 collet chuck before so congratulations with a new toy! And just between us, it's a live center, not a life center.
Oh, and one more thing: every time you sneeze the chips out from a just-cut hole, I cannot help but picturing Herr Messi who hasn't been starring your videos for quite a while. How're his veegets? You should star him more often.
Hi and thanks for your kind comment! Yes, the collet chuck is new to my lathe. I use it now relatively often, very useful :) And thanks for the hint with the live center. I wanted to write revolving center in the video but forgot to correct.. :/
:D Haha, I will bring him back for sure ;) He was actually in the latest video about electro etching but almost no one watched it.. :)
Great little project. Thanks for sharing..
Thank you!
Some day I hope to be able to afford a mini lathe. It's on my wish list! :)
Very beautiful result! 👍
Thank you very much! I really do appreciate that!
That is seriously cool!! Well done!!!
Thank you so much!
Great work as usual. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Thank you very much for sharing my work! I really do appreciate that :) Thanks!
Looks very professional!
Thank you!
Cool project, very useful. Thanks for sharing!
Wow, great idea!. Thanks for share it, very useful
Thank you very much for your kind comment!
Beautiful work!
Beautiful looking parts
Thanks!
that knurl is 🔥
Wow mis respetos que trabajo tan pulcro. Que grado de limpieza tan admirable.
neat idea and very well made.
Nicely done! Thanks for sharing
Cheers
Thanks for your comment! I really do appreciate that!
Fantastic workmanship.
Thank you! :)
Thank you for your wonderful work.
What you make will help me to make the same.
That was a job well done
Wow, fantastic.
Brilliant idea, I had in plan to build something like this for my machine. Thanks for the inspiration, mine will have a similar design 😃
Thanks, yes it works great.
beautiful work
Thanks!
Наблюдать за такой прекрасной работой есть эстетическое удовольствие, равное вдохновение!!!❤
большое спасибо! :)
Nice design, love it.
Thank you very much!
Excellent video ❤
Thank you!
Most excellent.
Nice job mate 👍
Great project mate 🙏
Thank you :)
Very very nice work.
Thanks!
Very nice!
Thanks!
Genial idea
Thanks!
perfekt gemacht
Vielen Dank :)
Eu nunca tinha visto como era feito esse tipo de recartilhado em diagonal. Ficou show!
Top Job,Sir👌
Thanks! :)
After seeing 11:15 I googled "cut knurling" and found a really excellent video by *checks notes* We Can Do That Better. Nice.
Haha, great! :D Thanks!
Nice. 👍👍
nice project👍
very nice!🎉
Thank you!
Estupendo accesorio para este tipo de trabajos, me gustarìa ver el plano de este tope de husillo con sus respectivas medidas, gracias por la informaciòn.
Once again, awesome execution. Love watching how methodical you are in your design and approach to your projects.
I too am curious about your ER32 collet chuck. Looks like a good one. I'm looking to replace the Ebay special one I have as the runout is terrible. Would love to hear where you got yours.
Thanks for the video! :)
You can usually "Touch Up" the collet chuck once it is mounted on the lathe with the lathe it's-self. Have you verified it is mounted concentric? Have you checked each of the individual collets themselves for concentricity? -- Do This -> Mount the chuck as central as you can, then set your compound to the correct angle of your collet system, then take a very light skim cut, now you are perfect! (Maybe use a Dremel mounted on the tool post and grind in the correct surface finish). Make several registration marks so you can get back to this concentricity after removal + replacement.. Voila!
Hi and thanks for your kind comment! The ER collet chuck I use is from GG-Tools in Germany. I tried 3 different chucks from ebay and elsewhere, all with horrible runouts. This one I got now has an excellent runout. But it seems that something in the manufacturing process went wrong. The chuck is totally coated including all the functional surfaces. That is not normal. All the functional surfaces should be ground after heat treatment and coating. I called the supplier but he doesn't want to see any problem with the product. So that's for your information. The runout is excellent, the coating and the support is questionable.
@@WeCanDoThatBetterWow, that's rare in Europe. The behaviour of the company I mean. I once bought a machinist square (plain, no foot) from MiB Germany, 01 class supposedly. It wasn't even in 02. When I moved it along my flat stones grinding marks revealed. Ondulations (waves) typical for Chinese factories where a part is ran through a surface grinder too fast. I reported everything to the company and got a middle finger. I used the square as a DIY kit. I had to correct it myself.
Your slitting saw probably got worn out from spinning way too fast for steel of that hardness.
Thanks for your comment! Yes, I guess that was the case. Unfortunately the little proxxon mill doesn't run lower than 900 rpm. So I almost had no other option than ruining the sawblade :)
More beautiful work. Perhaps this can double for a mandrel to support indexing plates too ?
Thanks! Yes, why not. Good idea :)
Nice video shot, keep it up,thanks :)
Thank you! :)
Very nice design, work and video. Really great sound quality too. Have you found that "ER" type collets work poorly (poor grip strength, poor concentricity etc.) if the part is shorter than the collet's over all length? How will you deal with very short, perhaps small diameter parts? Will you need an assortment of stop rods or stop rod ends with diameters that match the part diameter?
Cheers,
F.C.
During the making process shown in the video, he uses a piece (an offcut) of same diameter stuff when he is gripping on a short length in the collet. The backstop does not care if it touches this offcut or the stock itself. A single stop rod of a single diameter will do for everything. Use a dab of superglue to hold the offcut to the end of the stop rod while the finished part is removed and the new stock is inserted. The only time it might be necessary to modify it is if he wants to grip a hollow tube whose ID is greater than the stop rod's 'natural' OD.
@@darryllcrook376 Ah......so, an assortment of stop rod ends (offcuts). Brilliant. I hope the collet concentricity will be adequate if/when non-nominal part diameters are held by nominal diameter collets. Maybe switch to a 3-jaw chuck with soft jaws bored to suit?
Thank you,
F.C.
As you see in the video when I made the long arbor, I inserted a shorter piece of the same diameter to support the collet. I'm thinking about making a thread onto the stop rod, so that I can screw on different tips with different diameters when I have to support a collet.
Yes, thanks for your explanation. I think the "standard" stop rod will do fine for the first time. Perhaps I will make some exchangable tips for it which get screwed on to the rod at some point in the future.
Slick !
Very nice work!
Myself, on my best day, I'd just slop something together asap and move on, but I've got to admit that it's a thing of beauty and it totally works!
Not to mention that it had to have been a fun project.
Thanks for sharing! 🙂
amazing
Thanks! :)
Could you share your thoughts about collet chucks. What would you advise a fresh hobby machinist? Where should a hobby machinist place such a chuck in the upgrades/shopping list? Let's say the freshman only has the lathe with basic set of cutters, only 3 jaw chuck and a dial indicator and calipers :)
You can go far with a three jaw chuck. I would recommend to first upgrade to an independent 4 jaw chuck. These are really versatile for large and small workpieces and give you excellent runout when dialed in correctly. A collet chuck makes work easier when you have a lot of parts to do with the same diameter. It usually runs a lot more true than a 3 jaw chuck and changes of workpieces are a lot quicker than on a 4 jaw chuck.
So, it is not necessary in the first place but on some point later it is a good investion.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter OK, 4 jaw independent first, got it :)
Very nice indeed……
Thanks!
Such an amazing job! New sub here for sure!
If I may suggest one thing: machine a point/ballpoint at the end of the stopping rod for repeatability!
Greg
Great machining work. You have a new subscriber. Regards
Thank you so much for subscribing! I really do appreciate that! Enjoy the content :)
Very nice
Thanks!
Hey bro, what do you think about making a screw pass marker, so the rewind becomes obsolete, well that's a hypothesis you might be making, right now, great video, greetings from 🇧🇷🇧🇷
Hi what do you meand with a screw pass maker?
@@WeCanDoThatBetter ua-cam.com/video/FK5ElOwu56M/v-deo.htmlsi=e2IslX89Xede3A1g
Nice, I made something similar for my lathe a few weeks ago, although not as fancy as yours.
At 3:29 the saw have to high speet only 150-250 RPM and you have also used oil to . but nice video aswell 😉👍
Thanks for your comment! That was probably the problem, but the proxxon mill doesn't go lower than that. For HSS that was too much I guess :) You mean no oil?
@@WeCanDoThatBetter meybe you can swop the pully or put a vfd between or used a tungsten carbide
@@wilcojuffer5940 I have to look for alternatives for the milling machine :)
Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера.
большое спасибо :)
So you've made an assortment of rods to be used, with differing end diameters, so they can also be poked into the different sized ER40 collets?
The rod doesn't have to be exactly the diameter of the collet. There are some cases, when the part is too short to go deep enough into the collet, where the stop needs to be the same size to support the collet when clamped. I think I will machine a thread into the bar so I can screw on different sized tips.
Try some oil when you use the parting tool and knurling tool it helps a lot
So little of the chrome molybdenum bar stock is left that you almost wish for a trepanning tool!
Anyone know where the cutting type knurl rollers can be purchased? I would like to make my own holder.
Nice
11:17 Reduce speed (if possible) 50% and enter for the first cut 2/3 the width of the knurling tool cutting face. Enter first cut with the machine off and engage feed quickly after turning on the spindle. This is not to say that this knurl is of poor quality, far from it. It's a good looking knurl!
Buenas tardes que tipo de material estas usando gracias
What a great video. You always do a great job. Your idea is very useful for machinist. Do you have prints you are willing to share or sell? Thanks for your efforts that you take to produce these excellent videos.
Thank you , You always do such nice work . I'd like to share my cross compound power feed with you .
Thank you very much! Cross power feed sounds really interesting! Do you have pictures?
Michael can you upload some pics cross compound power feed for us Mini Lathe users. Cheers Peter from Oz
@@WeCanDoThatBetter a
. WOW'
what is it'
what does it do'
LOL Naaaaaaaa it's great 👍
Lol ya goofy m8te from Australia 😆
Nice work, but dude, I really had to turn down 5he volume because of your chatter. Please adjust feeds, and speeds. Use heavy cutting oil with your knurling and doit as slow an RPM your machine allows. A Blackwoods pocket edition black book for your cutting speeds and feeds are cheap and very handy.
Thanks for your feedback! Yes, could have done this better. Especially the internal turning operation sang like crazy sometimes. You mean even slower for knurling? I have to look the right speeds up. It is cut knurling and not form knurling. This might be different.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter fair call.
Nice Job , what can ou tell about the protractor you use to set your compound ?
thanks
animal
Thanks. What do you want to know? I bought it used and use it a lot when setting the compound to specific angles.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Does it have a name or Model # on it ?
thanks
animal
@@lauraallen1102 who is Mike?
@@johnrussell6620 Mike is Laura's husband , just using her login .
Good
Красота! Токарный станок немецкий? Сколько он стоит?
👍👍👍
You do very good work...but no offence when I say when your knurling and drilling that I've seen you should be using oil especially when knurling helps flush the the small swarf chips away so it doesn't recut the chips into the work..
Murphy says that now that you have a depth stop you'll never, ever need to make a bunch of parts all to the same length... ;)
haha :D Normally yes, but I have something scheduled where I need it :)
i have all the tools but i lack in insperation thank you
You are welcome :)
where did you get the collet chuck?
he ER collet chuck I use is from GG-Tools in Germany. I tried 3 different chucks from ebay and elsewhere, all with horrible runouts. This one I got now has an excellent runout. But it seems that something in the manufacturing process went wrong. The chuck is totally coated including all the functional surfaces. That is not normal. All the functional surfaces should be ground after heat treatment and coating. I called the supplier but he doesn't want to see any problem with the product. So that's for your information. The runout is excellent, the coating and the support is questionable.
I'm not saying I know better, because I certainly don't. Couldn't you just have started with a thick walled pipe and saved time and material? Or would sourcing the pipe be more effort than just grabbing some material already on hand? Regardless, you've earned a subscription! Very well made video!
You are likely right on both points... Pipe would be better work wise, but high alloy pipe aint found cheap nor oft... Its much easier to slurp up a piece from your stash and deal with it adequately to manifest the design... He likely coulda carburized and hardened the pipe to make it a worthwhile piece of steel, but that woulda deformed the pipe like a car wreck and make it unworkable to anything but grinders at that wall thickness in a way... Starting with a piece of high alloy steel like chrome molybdenum steel gives you a piece with decent wear characteristics, resistance to oxidation to a some extent and so on...
Hi and thanks for your comment and for subscribing! I really do appreciate that. In this case where the part in the end is basically a thin wall tube, starting from a piece of tubing would be great. I wanted a kind of hard tool steel for this purpose and I don't know if this is even produced as a tubing. And I had this cutoff flying around from a former project, so I don't had to buy something new :) But yes, removing so much metal in tough steel on the windy lathe is a little bit painful ;)
Well said, thank you! ;)
Es gibt keine aussichtslosen Situationen - es gibt unvorhergesehene Folgen!
Muito bom
Nicely made but when would this be useful? Other than making lots of the same part
Exactly for that ;) Sometimes you are happy to have it.
Так и не понял что это за приспособа
👏🙏
what is a 1,500 degree taper?
1.5
There are some that are taught to use a comma for a decimal point. I've no idea why but I've seen it often enough over the years that either way registers the same automatically lol.
Its a single and a half degree taper, so in essence, a very steep taper with minimal change of dimension over the length to achieve an immense leverage effect, also locks hard as fuck, as was seen with him having to smack the tapers apart... Its also colloquially known as mandrel taper, as most machinist mandrels rely on such shallow tapers for location and retention... I dont know where you found the zeroes after the 1.5, but lets say that the protractor shoulda explained that 1.5 degrees refers to angular offset of the cut...
I meant a 1 and a half degree of angle on the compound slide, actually resulting in a 3 degree total taper. Meaning it is a very shallow taper but it's enough to squeeze the mandrel firmly in place and lock the device in the spindle.
Well said, thanks ;)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter np the comma just confused me.
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1к62 зажимает всю эту штуку ! Причем плашмя :)
Вы славно работали, а я морально получил удовольствия. лайк
Du hast eine extrem hohe Drehzahl für solche Durchmesser. Deswegen hast du viel Geräusch und Vibrationen
Ja stimmt, muss ich besser drauf achten.
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