Guide to Surfing Steep Waves
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
- In this episode of Shralp Stories we talk about how to tackle late drops and steep waves.
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The fact this channel has 2.5k subscribers is absolutely criminal. Some of the best surfing content on UA-cam.
super interesting the “not be all the way up but not be on your stomach” when the wave is breaking on your back. totally makes sense and i can really visualize the amount of times i’ve been up too early and been stuck on my belly. really cool tip to know especially when youre surfing crowded areas and every chance for a wave counts.
How did I miss this vid. Thanks for the tips. I usually do a straight to rail takeoff mid face after popup. Your explanation of the rail rocker fitting the cup is SUPER helpful. Thanks again!
Really enjoying the videos, thanks for making quality content! I appreciate the work you guys put into this.
have been excited for the shralp stories of pumping surf
Loving the knowledge drops! So helpful - thank you!!
Since the was a sick barrel video, what do you do when your packing a big closeout to avoid getting injured, do you jump in front of your board or do you stay on until the bitter end? ❤ The videos i always hit that like button
Theres a pocket the lip makes on the inside of the barrel if you fall in there and swim out the back you can make it out easy. BUT... if the bottom drops out the pocket will be dry if it's too shallow then just dive forward
I tend to try to ride it all the way to the bitter end and then the wave does what it will with me haha. I look at jumping off as kind of a scary thing to do. If you go foreword your board will follow you and more then likely hit you (this is typically what I’ll do though) . Going backward I feel like I don’t penetrate the water well. I always cover my gear when I’m going down though. Been hit too many times I don’t need any more broken teeth or stitches
Yeah, as @ShralpStories mentioned it's all about penetration. If you fall backwards, you'll probably end up getting sucked over, followed by your board. If you hold on until the bitter end, you'll likewise have little control over the situation as you'll either get exploded and tumbled by a closeout or sent over, all close to your board. Which, if you're not over super shallow reef, will be the main danger. I've seen some bad fin cuts to the face, not ideal.
So, especially in bigger tubes where you (usually) have more time & space, I always try to jump forward and kinda aim towards the bottom, where the lip would land shortly after. Then, I'd try and use my whole body to maneuver out the back, parallel to the sea floor, like a seal (see Nate Florence also). This way you'll penetrate - arms first - and likely won't get sucked over. Bonus: Your board is way behind you and you'll have tension on your leash right away which will also make it more likely for your board and leash to survive.
Diggin these, keep up the good work broski 🤙🏼📈
Looking forward to the backhand video
yewww sick video!
Great video. Thanks. Don’t you think in general, even if it isn’t a steep take off, you should knife it anyway? Or angle? Or both
Sick vid bro awesome surfing too looking pro yew
Good info and breakdown. Its been a solid swell ( couple of swells) Creek looks like its been catching alot of that west.
Yeah boys 🔥🔨💯
Sick one's
Great video
Cheers guys , it looked like a fun session at the unspecified location ! 😄✌🙏
good stuff thanks!
for the sk8rs out there the dane method is more like rolling in to a steep transition (e.g. shallow end of a pool) where you bonk the back wheels which puts yr board in position to catch the transition
That’s a good point 🔥