OG Mitsubishi EVO 8 - Pulling The Turbo and Changing Fluids! | The Beater Build
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2023
- Well, it's day 2 of the build and we're already ripping the turbo out. Not too big of a deal, since by the time I'm done with this car, I'll have the turbo out 4 or 5 more times, ha.
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Dudes a jack of all trades, good on camera, quality of work is amazing, can even wrench and knows what hes talking about.
Mikes the best thing to happen to OG.. he’s that good. Big asset to Matt’s company.
Mike is so knowledgable and capable with anything you throw at him.
Could not stop laughing at Mike calling the other mike "Michael" as they were struggling for space with the turbo.😂
I could only imagine how much longer these projects would take if Mike wasn't a literal genius. Wish i could download his knowledge and upload to my brain.
Mike is a dag on renaissance man. An absolute treasure that must be protected at all costs.
Mike is my spirit animal.
You know Mike is the man when even his rigged setup to run the fuel pump is super clean!
Mike, I knew you were a good mechanic but now I see how good you are!! Attention to detail taking your time. Just doing a perfect job!! Really cool to watch!!
Jesus Christ this guy is the man……. Love watching his videos. He should have a UA-cam channel as well.
Hey! There's a bleed procedure for the ACD pump as I'm sure there's air in the system doing the drain/fill method! You turn the key to ON position and floor the gas pedal. This activates the ACD pump for a few seconds. This would make it a 2 man job (1 in the driver seat and the other under the car opening/closing the bleeder nipple on the bottom of the t-case). With this option you have to keep repeating this process. Also be sure to top off the ACD reservoir so you don't introduce new air into the system. Also when bleeding the brakes, make sure to use the proper method for the evo 8/9, as it is NOT the same as most other vehicles (bleeding the furthest caliper from the reservoir), like you would think it is. First corner is the passenger rear, bleeding inside then outside, then driver front, bleeding inside then outside, driver rear, bleeding inside then outside, and then passenger front bleeding inside then outside. I'm just posting because I know you guys probably don't know this and I'm an evo owner of 16 years who's happy to help.
I'll try it out👍🏻
Am curious to know the reasoning behind the brake bleeding order for CT9A. I have a CT9W and I swapped on braided lines and I think I did the usual rear first front last, though having said that the M/C or ABS was never drained at any point so that probably helps. Thanks for the ACD bleeding procedure, this will come in handy when I swap out the 5-spd auto for the 6-spd manual.
@@Jumalten001 your watching a video that was shot before I did the bleed on the acd. I've actually done it several times now.
I do appreciate watching Matt and Mike work together.
MIKE = *GOD STATUS*
Nice video! The Mikes always make a fun duo
Man Matt&Mike what a combo, you're doing everything right so far. I'm so excited for what's to come with the Evo
Matt, hard Intercooler piping will make a huge difference, noticeably decreasing the turbo lag on my old Evo.
Love it. Anything OG garage builds I'm all about! Love the old school JDM builds love the Porsche content the BMW content just all of it. Nice plethora of cars too. Good shit
When is Mike doing a single turbo conversion on his F80? I hear it’s the cool new thing and they sound absolutely amazing
Nice work Mike!
Mike is worth more money. Make sure he gets rewarded. Decades of knowledge and a calm worker
This is definitely the freshest evo build!
Loving this series! I have an STI so it’s nice to get a better understanding of an Evo
If putting spacers on make sure to go ahead with some ARP Wheel Studs
Even with 1" ?
You should always use hub centric spacers
@@Carlos.Rivera Well yeah there's probably barely more than 1" of stud sticking out! IIRC the largest spacer you can run on a factory stud is 3-5mm.
I’m really liking these videos! Awesome stuff!!
Love this series, very nice to watch.
What’s the hourly shop rate for mike? 😂
Great vid Matt! What T-shirt are you wearing? Where did you purchase it? Cheers/B
www.obsessedgarage.com/collections/gt3-rs-giveaway-merchandise/products/flat-six-graphic-tee-porsche-gt3-rs-giveaway
With the Evo X you need to bleed the AYC pump, I assume it’s the same for the ACD on the 8/9… I would look into it before you just start driving it.
I just posted the bleed procedure in the comment above, I hope they see it! The same for the brakes as the evo 8/9 has a specific brake bleeding method.
Great info. You know what you talking about.Thank you
Matt you should really consider getting an Artec manifold instead of that STM one.
100% agree with this
Matt is going to kill Mike 😂😂
Most of the calipers fade from the brake fluid leaking from the cross over tubes. Had Mitsubishi replace a complete set of calipers when i had my 2005 under warranty.
Noooo Coffee down....not good Mikey. ....
If you want injector cleaner that actually works, with a ton of PEA inside of it, use Redline SI-1.
On the 4g63 it’s way easier to bolt the manifold to the head first, and then install the turbo from the bottom. I’ve tried every way and that has been the easiest I have found in the last 20 years of working on 4g63’s lol
2:16 twin scroll is two separate flow paths in the exhaust housing, nothing to do with the blade design of the compressor wheel.
Magical video. :)
Get nice tune after all that work be prefect love headers
I’m a big DSM guy and currently have a built Evo 8. 2.3 stroker, billet wheel 60mm Holset HX40, Haltech ECU.
If you do a turbo upgrade, go T3 with a hot parts kit from Morrison Fabrications. They make the absolute highest quality parts for these cars hands down. Turbo choice for a stock block 2.0, I would stay 60mm or less on the compressor side unless you want to build the motor to rev it.
Who did you use to tune the Haltech?
@@DJ_Driven I did. I tune Haltech, Holley, and some other stuff like ECMLink and ECU Flash on Evo’s. Haltech is pretty nice. I’m going to be doing a Link ECU on a buddy’s drag DSM and a FuelTech on another 😂
I heard that flex, "We got turn14 now"
I just got an account set-up to buy wholesale.
Do a FP turbo it's a stock location. Bolts right up to the stock water nd oil lines
Forced performance turbo
Models , red , black , zero
That’s a bummer on the wheel weight scratching the rim. I always Yelp a local rim repair shop. There are a handful of them around me with 500+ 5 star reviews and I’ve had a few rims repaired by them. They all do amazing work. They could fix that and match the paint without having to repaint the whole wheel.
Id go with 5w30, 10w30 is too thick for stock motor with bolts ons and stock turbo. Still great choice on oil, I run amsoil as well
Definitely agree the liqui-moly fuel injector cleaner is a little better than the Lucas for actually cleaning things out. Lucas is a great "up keep" additive to keep things smooth after it's cleaned out. At least that's how I always looked at it
Amsoil P.I. (Performance Improver) & Amsoil UCL (Upper Cylinder Lubricant) is also really good stuff.
Matt give royal purple max clean a try it’s just as good as Amsoil cleaner is also a fuel stabilizer
Props to Mike's solution for running the fuel pump w/o jumping all 3 relays. I only object to this strategy because the primary fuel filter is integrated into the fuel pump hangar (p/n MR571545) and is non-serviceable. So you are pumping all the old nasty fuel through your filter. Why not just use the drain bolt on the bottom of the tank?
You have to run the flat washer style lug nuts on stock wheels. Do not use regular acorn lug nuts.
I would just go get an FP Green turbo. I believe they use Garrett cores and they’re stock fitting
ARP hardware ftw always 🤜🏻🤛🏻
Paint might bubble / discolour on the rocker cover with a tubular, might want to look at a shield.
It will, i found this out on mine, ended up buying a brand new rocker cover from japan
Good job uncle Matty, now you gotta take it to the track bro and beat on it, get those calipers nice and pink bro 😅
I heard Alex G. in LA talk about some new turbo impeller design he is using to preserve more of that N/A engine sound...for his upgrades on the 488's etc...
Think Alex said it's was a more open design like a steam turbine's impeller?
also you can shorten that stud, i had same issue on the back bolt. may look a little funny, maybe trim both. that way you can get the nut off without having to pulling the whole assembly.
Matty can order up some custom length titanium exhaust studs.
Stainless bolts in an aluminum head? That's a corrosion nightmare!
"Bolt On"
Next time if you upgrade the turbo its easier to remove/install if its fully assembled as exhaust manifold, turbo, wastegate, j-pipe, lines, and o2 housing. Radiator will have to be taken out to reduce damage to the fins when trying to squeeze it out.
Have you ever put a reusable furnace filter in your oil drain pan to prevent splashing? Tool manufacturers make them, but they are literally just a reusable furnace filter. It’s the green kind
That's a great idea.
MURAD form Toronto 🇨🇦👋👌🤘🏻
Haha I'm gonna send Matt some old greasy Subie videos lol that or some more LFA ones lol...
HTA71 turbo by fp is a good shoice. on e85 you make about 450 whp, instant responce. 1050 or 1300 injectors. next up is fp green. although i heard hta71 is a little quicker in spool. i love mine, for autocross. etc.
Curious who did you use for a tuner?
@@DJ_Driven i used archie at AO garage. been using him for years. truly top knotch work.
what shorts is mike rocking? the grey ones. they look classy yet comfortable. oh yah, sweet work on the evo!
Greg Norman "the shark"
@@MikeFigueira-OG Thanks Mike, did you buy them online?
@@Jballzx Yes I did.
Matt ave got carb cleaner there same thing Mike mmmm ones ethra ones not Matt spraying away lol 😂
Its not my car but gosh I'd keep the 8gen front bumper hate the look from the 7 and 9 , looks like someone forgot to put something on it. Love this serie so far !
👍
PB blaster l that's stuffs legit, only thing is the smell reminds me of old moth balls...
Oh man I had a feeling you’ll eventually get tired of this and sell it.. I Remember one of your videos that it’s the “chase”that keeps you going
Oh...I certainly will. Then I get something else and do it all over again.
jeez what a piece of junk, blocks already rusting. you should hand it over so I can take it to the scrapyard
You should do braided brake lines and thank me later
Think it's a Hitachi turbo.
It's made by MHI (Mitsubishi Heavy Industries). This is true for all Evos, the 1987-92 Galant VR-4, 1g DSM. US 2003-04 8s (all trims) used TD05HR-16G6-9.8T. 2005 US Evos (all trims) received a larger turbine housing, model # is TD05HR-16G6-10.5T. US Evo IXs (all trims) received a revised compressor side and is regarded as the best of the US CT9A turbos. That model # is TD05HR-16G6C-10.5T.
When is Matt
Going to turn down wrenches and actually work on his car besides draining simple fluids
Here is the scenario in which that would happen. I would need to lose everything and start over. I would then have a need to start buying broken things and then need to fix them. In what world would anyone decide to buy junk and work on it unless you were forced to do so?
@@ObsessedGarage @mightycarmods hahahaha Matty,
Do both of you have daughters. Your demeanors defintely scream girl dad
Ha, ha... Yes we do.