How to Apply Custom Rod Butt Wrap Finish the FCR Way
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
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In this video I show you the way I apply finish to long butt wrap areas using a brush. There are lots of ways to do this but this method works well and produces consistent results for me. Hope this helps...please like and subscribe!
Gen4 finish can be found here: www.Gen4resins.com
Fuji Products can be found here: www.anglersresource.net
Flex Coat Products can be found here: www.flexcoat.com
Precision Tweezers as seen in this video: www.amazon.com/Tweezers-Ingro...
String levels can be found here: www.amazon.com/LudoPam-Engine... - Спорт
You know I'm new to rod building. I can't imagine the hours of frustration you're saving me by making these videos.
As always, Bill of "FALCONER Custom Rods" is very clear and informative in his videos, thank you very much for sharing your wisdom, Fuji guides could not have chosen a better presenter!
Thanks for watching Nick. Now if only I could quit my day job and really go to work for Fuji! They make a great product!
I have been watching several of your videos and I have to say thank you very much. I have learned a lot. My finish from three months ago when I started to now is night a day difference. Sure some is practice but most I feel goes to changing my process based upon what I have been watching.
That’s awesome! Thanks for watching and let me know what other topics you’d like to see.
Great video! New to rod building and wish this had been available a week earlier before my first attempt at finishing a couple of rods. Just about everything bad thing you mentioned that can happen, happened to me! Your advice would have saved me a TON of mistakes, extra work, and anxiety. Thanks for putting out this content and appreciate your sharing these lessons!
I really appreciate your attention to detail and pursuit of excellence.
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe!
Would love to see some videos on your shop setup, equipment and tools you use in building rods. This was another great vid. I would venture to say you have best rod building vids out there. Keep em coming
Thanks for the suggestion...will do (as soon as I get my shop cleaned up!).
I very much appreciate professional people and perfectionists like you, every video of yours is a new experience, continue to be successful and do amazing work - thank you for the investment !!!
Thank you for watching! I appreciate your support.
LOL...I never thought to apply finish on any rpm other than slow.......Can't wait to try!!! Looks like I've been doing it wrong for all these years..lol
Thanks for watching! Let me know how you make out.
So...this is a great point you raise. There really is no 'right' or 'wrong' way of doing it. If you have been getting good consistent results then you are doing it right! This is just...another way.
I put it on by hand for...15 years? But once I got the hang of 200 RPM it's hard to go back!
@@masteringrodbuilding I think it also may have to do with some of the finishes I used in the past. That G4 stuff goes on like butter.......noticeably different. Watching your higher speed application makes so much more sense....And you can't deny the results....
@@TackleAdvisors That's a really good point. All the products behave a little differently...Gen4 definitely plays nice at high speed. Flex Coat also works...not sure about any others. Love your rigging videos, by the way. You have a really cool channel!
Great as always Bill.Paul
Your videos are awesome!! Iam learning and your videos are much appreciated 👍🏻
Tim Clarke thanks for watching...please like and subscribe!
So glad they are helpful...appreciate the feedback.
Great insight. Keep it up. I may get brave enough to strip down one of my rods and use the rod wrapper I built.
Give it a whirl!
like the previous video, this is great, great stuff! Thank you for being so generous with your knowledge. If you ever put together an instructional DVD, I'd be a buyer for sure! Take care and thanks again!
Thanks Jon...and thanks for watching! Appreciate your support...more to come.
Great stuff sir, thank you.😎
You do amazing work
Excellent stuff!
good job...quality information...thank yoy very much for sharing...
a "wannabe" custom builder from greece...
Please do a video on your process of installing more difficult grip/reel seats such as the Fuji SK2 seat with its winding checks.
So...I don't use them very often. But I promise that the next time I use one I'll document the process. The key to me is going in steps...can't possibly do it all at once and get it right.
Great video.
I can't thank you enough 👍
Yet another great video, I wish this video was out a week ago...oh well I have 5 more to build....I know my mistakes and will correct them...Thanks
Sorry man - going as fast as I can! Stay tuned...new one about how to fix finish problems next weekend!
Hey Bill, by no means was I busting your video at all...you have the best videos on rod building out on UA-cam...tell your daughter her is a joke for her, “what did one plate say to the other plate? Dinner is on me” I know producing videos and editing takes several hours out of your day and I appreciate the hard work that goes into them. I tried it and it was a pain....
@@SaltHeadz777 well...you guys are getting a bunch of single take videos. That's all I got! I'll get the joke distributed ASAP
Bill, I have two brand new Flexcoat cork lathe set ups with drills that have variable speed adjustments on the trigger. If you would like them I will send them two you. I bought a Grizzly lathe to turn cork when the time comes. You could keep for your self or raffle them of on your channel, lmk brother....
To
Great video bill, the issue that I have is I often do butt wraps that include hook keepers where I'm wrapping thread on top of thread and then applying the finish over top. I also do a lot of tiger wraps and even open wraps on top of tigers so I often in situations where there's different levels of height at different places along the butt wrap.
Often times I try to level the height differences a bit as I'm doing each coat but I noticed it often causes minor bumps and lumps when it's all said and done so I think I might just stop trying to level it or even out height differences during coats and just lay on thin coats each coat whether there's a height differences or not and just aim for smooth and level epoxy across the wrap even if there is some differences in height due to the different layers of thread on the wrap.
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe!
I understand the issue you are describing. There is no one right or wrong way to do it in my mind. To me it is a compromise...if you use multiple coats over everything to get it all level at one height then you end up with lots of finish climbing/running the hook keeper or guides incorporated into the butt wrap. If you do the hook keeper separately then it won't be totally level with everything else. So it's kind of a trade off.
For me, I have gotten to where I keep them separate whenever possible. So if I am wrapping a hook keeper over the butt wrap I finish the butt wrap first. I then wrap on the hook keeper and then finish it separately. It is not exactly level with the rest of the wrap, but to my eye it looks much for finished and professional than tons of finish running all over the hook keeper in the name of getting it all level. Just do some testing and experimenting and I'll bet you find what looks best to your eye. Good luck!
Well...I’m a fan now lol
When you were trying to get rid of a fuzzy the lighter was used but did not remove fuzzy. Thought it would. I have no experience in these matters as my first build will be next week. Thanks
Excellent technique. Great work. I have a problem with my rods for which I need some advice. My cork butts that I make are not always concentric with the rod blank!? As a result, I get blank wobble when turning which affects my finish coat. Is there a piece of eqyipment or other solution to this problem (I have a 3x Jaw chuck)? Thank you. Regards, Frank
Thanks for all you do Bill, you’ve been a huge help to a LOT of us. My question is regarding applying finish to chevron or diamond wraps. I have difficulty avoiding wavy first coat finish where the thread stops and meets the rod blank. Kind of dips down on the blank area. So you apply the same way? Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback - please like and subscribe!
So what you are describing is totally normal - the diameter is larger where there is thread and smaller where there isn't thread (the bare blank spots in an open chevron or diamond wrap). There are kind of two paths forward in my mind.
Many folks don't mind those kinds of waves as long as they are even and consistent...you can see that the thread beneath is what is causing them and the finish seems to hug and follow the contours of the wrap. The finish is level on the tie offs. As long as there are no fuzzies, stick ups, bubbles, etc. then it can actually look very good and you can leave them. Totally your call.
You can also go for a totally dead level finish where there are no waves if you prefer. If you want that look over an open chevron or diamond wrap where bare blank is exposed, you are going to have to use more coats of finish. After multiple light, even coats (3 - 5) you may find it levels out nicely. If not, you can let the last coat cure for 48 hours and then sand it level with a rigid sanding block. You can see my video on how to fix finish mistakes for this technique. Just be very careful to to sand down into the thread on your tie off wraps and the centers of your diamonds/points of your chevrons. This is kind the same technique you use to finish wood with open grain - apply finish, sand level. Apply finish, sand level. You eventually get a very level finish.
One other thought - you can always close the wrap as well. Takes care of the problem from a totally different angle. Hope that makes sense...let me know if you have questions.
As usual, great info. Do you have any recommendations for applying guide wrap finish to a heavier guide with an underwrap?
Thanks for watching Charles.
Big heavy duty rods with under wraps and double overwraps are a different animal. I have had a request for a video on that and will do one the next big rod I build. But basically it's sort of a hybrid approach.
I personally lay out the guides and mark the areas to be under wrapped. I complete the under wraps and hit them with one or two thin coats of finish. I apply the finish with a brush under power like I do my butt wraps. You can wait and finish the under wraps and the guide wraps at the same time but you get a TON of runout along the guide feet and finish climbing up the guide frame. To me that looks tacky.
Then once that finish has set up for 2-3 days, I complete the guide wraps and finish them as I normally would. If I am doing double over wraps I wrap one layer, finish that layer lightly, then wrap the second layer and finish it.
The only other thing I'll do differently is that with really big rods...say land based shark rods or surf rods...I'll apply the guide finish under power rather than by hand. After I'll go back and clean up the edges, etc. with a spatula like I show in my guide wrap finishing video. Hope this helps!
Great video, I learn a lot from you, so thank you! Where did you buy the spatula from?
So...I made the spatula and now there is a video on my channel of how to make your own! Check it out:
ua-cam.com/video/YFpIORJ_qMU/v-deo.html
Another great one! Are you using the Gen 4 light? I just got some last week. Looking forward to trying it out. I have heard good things. Going to try the tweezers too. I suck at finish!
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe. We ALL suck at finish when we start...but you can totally master it. Just keep working!
I personally prefer the regular high build Gen4. I find that I can warm a thick/high build finish and it flows/behaves like lite. I can't do the other way around. Gen4 can be applied so lightly that your inlaid turns and JTOBs stick up from the first coat...you can see that in this video. So I just don't see what I need a light build for? But use whatever works for you. There is no wrong answer if you are happy with your results.
appreciate the video. What brush do you use for applying epoxy. also what is the spatula you used for mixing. any links to those items. Thanks
Thanks for watching! I use either a disposable Flex Coat Yellow 1/4" brush or a flat style disposable brush from China - the one in the video is like this:
www.amazon.com/DECYOOL-Painting-Watercolor-Children-Students/dp/B07TNQFLCK/ref=pd_nav_hcs_rp_1?pd_rd_w=hr1Ls&pf_rd_p=0381b3ca-ac9b-49b9-ba63-35fd0815ad67&pf_rd_r=4NZ0VS5E9Z51CHBCHSEY&pd_rd_r=b01224b6-ea64-4812-aeab-a5776725fd34&pd_rd_wg=15Vvp&pd_rd_i=B07TNQFLCK&psc=1
For the spatula, I make my own - here's how:
ua-cam.com/video/YFpIORJ_qMU/v-deo.html
Hope this helps - hit me up with questions.
Bill, thanks again man those finishes look awesome. I really like that you explain very thing, consistency I have to agree is the way to go. Another thing I really thought that what you said about products which was adjust what you are doing. Your thoughts on were well taken. Quick question if you have rod that you got waves on is there a way to correct. I have a rod that I built for myself one of my very first. I really like it but don't use as much as I would like to because of the Waves in finish. I take rods that I built fishing in some cases as way of advertising so please let me know if there is anything I can do to get rid of the Waves so I can show it off as well. Thanks again great video and tight lines.
Thanks for watching Paul. YES! You can fix wavy finish after it happens. The third and final video in this series - which will drop next weekend - outlines one way to do that. So stay tuned!
@@masteringrodbuilding I'll definitely be watching. Thanks again.
P.S. so glad for videos
Hey Bill will watch your video after we get some Texas BBQ, I’m sure your video will be great
Roy Naylor better be brisket...
Hey Bill, the Brisket was wonderful as always. I really wanted to make a brisket but to be honest you could probably make a rod faster then I cook brisket...lol. Bill, wondering if you could comment on your first rod build completely on your own. I made so many mistakes, the biggest one was heating up the epoxy on top of those scent warmers. Big mistake, the epoxy congealed way to fast making it very wavy. I don’t know if I have your email but if you want to send it I’ll take pictures and send it to you. Although there are many mistakes I choose to keep the rod as a reminder. Your epoxy video came out two days after the completion of my first all “ME” build. Please share your first rod build with us.
2500rm@gmail.com
Is my email
@@Saltheadz316 man...I do remember my first one. It was May of 1995 and I ordered the complete DIY kit from Cabela's. It was an 8' 2-piece 4-weight Loomis IMX fly rod kit with an upgraded Struble reel seat and insert and single foot snake guides. It was wrapped in solid dark green thread with no embellishments or trims or anything. I honestly have given away a ton of rods to kids over the years...not sure if I still have that one. But I'll look for it and see. It was a great little rod...I couldn't possibly count how many trout I caught on that rod swinging soft hackles.
Very good advice. Just your shop at 74-76 would be killing me with heat. We never vary our house more than 64-68. How would that affect the finish? I do have a rod tent with a heater for use if necessary.
That’s fine…the most important thing for predictable results is CONSISTENCY. So if you keep it at a steady 68 you’ll be fine.
The only way it will affect the finish is to extend cure time. I’d say you should plan to rotate an extra hour longer after application than you would at 74. Hope this helps…good luck!
Thank you so much for your videos Bill. Quick question: what speed (RPM) are you drying your rods at? Are you able to use the same flex coat dc variable speed motor for that, or are you actually moving it to a different dryer? I couldn't quite tell from the video. Thank you!
Hey Matt - sorry the video wasn't clear. I use the Flex Coat DC motor to apply butt wrap finish at 200 rpm. Then I give everything a very close inspection...pop any bubbles and pull out any lint or fuzzies with fine tweezers.
When everything looks good, I then transfer it to a different wall mounted dryer. I personally like the Flex Coat 6 RPM motors with Fuji spring arm chucks. But to be clear, you could simply leave it on the Flex Coat DC motor and turn it down to minimum speed. I think that's about 40 RPM.
Hope this helps - hit me up with questions. Thanks!
Thanks so much Bill. Is there any downside to drying a rod at 36-40 rpm?
@@mikeMetcalf77 so try it out and see what you think. Generally speaking, I tend to be happier with a slower speed for high viscosity (thicker high build finishes) and faster for lower viscosity (think thinner or lite build finishes). But honestly I think this matters more - in my experience - on guide wraps and less on butt wraps. So try out 36 - 40 and see what you think. I'd love to hear about your results.
Bill, you seem very keen on the Gen-4 finish, for obvious reasons. But my question to you is do you have any data on yellowing of the finish over time as compared to other finishes?
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe!
In my experience all two part epoxies will yellow in time. As for my personal tests and experience, Gen4 yellows less than anything else I have tested except ThreadMaster (which was developed originally by the same guy behind Gen4). the
On the rods I've built I've seen the other properties of the finish (being too soft when cured, cracking, hazing, etc.) are MUCH worse problems than yellowing. The total combination of ALL properties - which is what you get on a real fishing rod actually used for fishing - are what I evaluate to select a finish. And based on that holistic combination of all properties my personal favorites are Flex Coat (both High Build and SCS/UltraV) and Gen4.
I get that people worry about UV exposure...especially on white rods. But most of the 'tests' people do are totally manipulated and subjective - frankly BS 'plate tests' or some such that ONLY take into account yellowing. To me, tests on a plate or panel are useless compared to actual use on a rod, right? And a month long test bears NO resemblance to a rod being fished every day for 10 years. That's the only way to know how a product actually performs over time. I do NOT want a water clear epoxy that absorbs water, cracks and hazes, separates from the guide feet, etc.
Obviously this is totally subjective and just my opinion. But it is based on actual real world experience. I personally don't get wound around the axle on yellowing. But if you do - and that's totally okay - then you really need to use a urethane. Hope that helps!
Hi Bill - one follow up question. On open faced cross wraps, do you find it takes 3 or more coats to get the finish to level due to different height between open blank underneath and thread? Thanks
Hello Matt - thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe! So on open cross wraps, it does typically take more coats to get it completely dead level. So, I'd normally do like four coats of Gen4 and then sand it flat and add one or two more coats if I want a dead level final finish.
However, the 'waves' that happen as a result of the finish following the contours of the thread are not unpleasant to my eye. So, I very often DON'T make it dead level because it looks kind of organic and like an artifact of the process to me when the finish contours closely follow the wrap contours if that makes sense. Best advice I can give you is try it both ways and see what you like. Or if the waves bother you, then do more coats, sand, and be happy. Make sense?
I have sooted up my finish using the lighter so I an still using the Alcohol burner. How come you don't get soot in it. Oh, I got Gen4 and Gen 4 lite that I'm trying on my next build. It's a fly rod with Snake grips.
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! I’m not sure why I’m not sooting up my finish. I have never had an issue with it...but others besides you have mentioned it. Maybe it’s the brand of lighter I’m using? But an alcohol torch works great.
I think you’ll like the GEN4...very easy to use.
Are you using high build or low? I’m brand new and taking your advise concerning the Gen 4 and all rod building stuff.
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe!
I personally use the regular High Build in both Gen 4 and Flex Coat Original. To me, I can get High Build to behave like thin/Low Build with the gentle application of heat. The opposite is not true. Watch my other videos, but even with High Build you will want to apply multiple thin coats. Good luck!
Still struggling with smooth finish when it comes to open decorative wraps like Chevrons. Can get great finish results when it comes to Tiger wraps and solid base color wraps
So...you may need to simply use more coats. Either that or use more coats and then sand level.
Have you ever tried really heavy coats on your open chevrons? Sometimes if you do a first thin coat...and then a couple really heavy coats...it levels out. Depends on lots of variables but might be worth a try. You are going to have to do something different to get a different result.
@@masteringrodbuilding first coat is very thin,next few coats are typically thicker than the first but not not super heavy. I have always been scared of doing the sanding to level out the high spots in fear of going too deep and damaging the wrap. I might have to go back to the drawing board and try going heavier coat after the first thin coat
@@HankG51 try more coats. If you are doing three try 6. Or more. I'm serious. What product are you using?
If you are getting good level finish on the your closed wraps, then it is unlikely a technique or product issue. I'd suspect you are just not using enough coats?
And yes - you can sand into the high spots if you aren't careful. That's why you have to add a lot more finish to keep that from happening. Hope this helps!
Very well done Bill. Wondering about a couple things.
1) you don't let the epixy sit a few minutes before applying ?
2) you apply from the same cup you mix in ?
Thanks for watching Randall. Two great questions...I'll take take the second one first. I do apply directly from the same cup I mix it. Technically it would be much sounder technique to pour the finish out of the cup I mixed it in into another cup or onto some foil or something before applying. This ensures you don't apply any finish that isn't thoroughly mixed and is a good habit. That said, I mix so thoroughly (exactly as shown in the guide wrap finish video) that I don't need to do it. I've never had one single problem with a batch of Gen4 or Flex Coat setting up.
In terms of letting the epoxy sit before applying - it depends on the coat. For the first coat - where I need to wet threads for the first time and release bubbles - I apply immediately after mixing. For subsequent coats (and the final coat) I like to mix it and let it sit before applying. Not as long as the guide wrap finish video, but I start when the stopwatch I used to mix hits about 8-9 minutes total for Flex Coat Original High Build and about 6-7 minutes for Gen4. Apply exactly the same way as in this video...only difference is wait a bit before doing so. All times are at 76 degrees or so...if your shop is considerably warmer that will speed timeframes up and if you keep it cooler it will slow things down. Hope this helps!
@@masteringrodbuilding thanks for clarifying Bill. Your instructions are the absolute best.
When do you use the spatula to apply finish? Never seen that process.
@@randallswift4023 I use the spatula only for guide wraps. Watch the Guide Wrap finish video...it's all laid out in there.
@@masteringrodbuilding i did watch it and liked it.
Nice job. Why did the lighter not get rid of the fuzzy?
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe!
Craig I'm not sure I'm tracking your question. You can use a lighter to remove thread fuzzies before applying the first coat. In my experience this works for all but light/bright colored threads and certain nylons that darken when singed. For those, I apply the first coat and then after it has set I simply use a sharp, clean razor blade to remove the fuzzies before applying the second coat. Thsi prevents a dark spot where you singed the thread with the lighter.
You cannot use the lighter to remove fuzzies that are caused by lint or particles falling into the finish - those you have to remove with the tweezers. Not sure if that is what you are asking? Let me know if that's not making sense and I'll clarify...
FYI I also go into much more detail on finish issues in this video: ua-cam.com/video/MzSSyNlMlXg/v-deo.html
Hope this helps!
I rewatched and saw fuzzy was actually in the finish not just on top or sticking up.
@@craigcampbell2687 When in doubt if something happens or doesn't happen it's operator error! LOL
I always use Flex Coat but my mix seems to get too thick to work after about 5 minutes. When it starts setting up, it has a tendency to grab the brush and even pull bristles out of the brush and I’m using Flex Coat yellow brushes. Any advise would be appreciated.
Thanks for watching drkrm...please like and subscribe. That is weird - not sure why that is happening but pretty sure we can figure it out. How much of each part are you mixing and in what kind of cup or dish? How long do you mix? Sometimes if you mix a lot - like more than 3 ccs - the exothermic curing reaction will make it heat up and set too fast. You can usually solve it by mixing less (using multiple batches) and pouring it out onto a flat surface (like aluminum foil) once finished mixing.
Wondering if that is happening here? If you can let me know that we'll start breaking it down and seeing what is going on.
Falconer Custom Rods I mix 3-4 CCs with an epoxy mixer for 5 minutes. For a while, I had problems with a lot of bubbles so I went from 3 minutes to 5 minutes and the bubbles are much fewer. Then, I pour it into a small (2” diameter) flat aluminum foil dish and start applying from there. I run my wrapper at a fairly high rpm while applying and then transfer to an 18 rpm drier. I’ve tried natural hair brushes but those are awful about losing bristles onto the finish. I’ve seen guys on UA-cam take their sweet time putting on finish with no problem. Now, let me say I was away from building for many years, but, I started in 1980 and have always used Flex Coat. That’s about all there was unless you used epoxy glue or clear epoxy paint. So, I’ve been around the block a few times. Plus, I see the same quick dry problem with either High Build or Lite, so, I can’t figure it out. I even tried mixing by hand...same thing. My work area is in an air conditioned basement, so, there’s no temperature extremes. Plus, I warm my flex coat to 80-100 degrees.
@@drkrm Hmmm...okay thank you for the details. I mean...it all sounds like you are doing it right. I have to confess to being a bit puzzled. But let's keep working on it.
How old is your finish (like did you buy it years ago vs. recently)?
Also, when you say you warm your FC to 80-100 degrees how do you do that? Tell me more please...
PM me your contact info and I'll reach out.
Falconer Custom Rods I mixed up a lesser amount (2 cc each) today and had a longer pot life. What I did different was, I didn’t warm the Flex Coat, I used a sable bristle brush, which shouldn’t have an affect on pot life. I still used the auto mixer but, I only mixed for 3 minutes. So, maybe with the prewarming the components and mixing too long created too much heat and lessened the working time.
If anyone out there is having the same problem I had, just try different things.
Bill, thank you for contacting me by phone and bringing the heat factor to my attention. Not many people are willing to help to that extent.
drkrm that’s great news - so glad you got it worked out. Thanks for sharing your learnings with the group!
Hi Bill, At what speed are you using for this application. What would be informative is a list of speeds you use for different processes at stages of a build.
What i was given as a guide when i purchased my equipment is,
Coat threads @ 4 Rpm ( with brush )
Edging coat @ 21 Rpm ( with brush )
Drying @ 9 Rpm
I was given this as a guide from their process of building, but as everyone has a different process ( Eg; yours of applying epoxy to a guide wrap )
Any guidance would be grateful. Do you have a video on such subject ?
Also the two gentlemen you mentioned Doc Ski & James Lebonoski ( apologies for being possible incorrect ) Do you have links for these people & others that maybe of a source youtube information / tuition.
Grateful
Thank you
Steve, Australia
Hello Stevos - thanks for watching. The guidelines you have been given sound reasonable to me. Try them and see if they work for you. Lots of different variables...with your technique and preferences being the most important. Certainly the viscosity of the finish you are using matters for some of this. So if those speeds work for you...use them!
As for me, I apply guide wrap finish with a spatula while rotating by hand. This is true of both the first coat and the second/subsequent coats. Once it's applied and I'm happy, I put them on a 6 RPM Flex Coat dryer to set. I work at 75 degrees Fahrenheit so that takes about 2.5 hours with Flex Coat and 4 hours with Gen4. Details and specifics of my guide stuff can be found here: ua-cam.com/video/GQe9tR6CUO4/v-deo.html
For butt wrap finish, I apply with a flat brush while rotating at 200 RPM. This is for both the initial coats and subsequent - and edging - coats. Again, once the finish is applied it goes on a 6 RPM Flex Coat dryer. I have NEVER had a Flex Coat motor burn out on me in 27 years. Every other motor I've ever tried is dead and gone. All of them...and I think I've tried them all. So buy once cry once.
Doc Ski is James Labanowski...Doc is his nick name from his Navy Medical Corpsman days. His channel is outstanding...he is a tremendous builder, a wonderful teacher, and extremely generous with his knowledge sharing. His channel can be found here: ua-cam.com/users/docski377
Hope this helps - good luck!
@@masteringrodbuilding
Thanks Bill for replying.
We discussed this via email Saturday ( your Friday)
I've ordered the packing tools we discussed.
Will forward as soon as they arrive.
So Grateful for your guidance.
As discussed over time I'll get it perfected.
I'm going to try to find these epoxies in Australia.
Cheers Stevo
P.S. I bought a desk magnifying glass with light today.
What a difference this will make.
So many thing I haven't pick up because of vision.
( comes with age 😂)
Where did you obtain your levels for round surfaces Bill?
The ones I have are sold as string levels or line levels. I got some at a local Ace Hardware and some at Harbor Freight.
www.harborfreight.com/3-in-line-level-67765.html
www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-5-5-8-in-Line-Levels-Set-2-Pack-83038/100169030?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-025_001_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-NA-Hand_Tools&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-025_001_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-NA-Hand_Tools-71700000086053656-58700007291967538-92700065470082105&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsYHcn8SX8wIVHAaICR0PrwYaEAQYAyABEgLekPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
How do you make your labels?
Hello Bobby Joe - I get them from Decal Connection. Thanks!
Amateur question here. Do you level the top of your rod or the bottom before applying the finish?
Not amateur at all. I level the top personally…I do this as close to the butt wrap as I can for butt wraps. I level the mid section of the rod for guide wraps.
My rod dryer doesn't turn that fast.
Yes...I realize a lot of folks don't have a 200 RPM finish machine. And you may not build enough rods to make it worth buying one (although the new Flex Coat Variable Speed DC Gearmotor unit is very, very reasonable for what you get).
The same principles still apply though, Ron - apply a light coat as evenly as possible to a completely level rod by hand. Level with gentle lengthwise brush strokes. Pop bubbles and remove any lint or dust...turn on a level dryer. It will take longer to apply but you can get the same result. I'll try to get a video up of how to do it by hand.
@@masteringrodbuilding Thank you. Great videos