How to Apply Decals and Inscriptions: the FCR Way
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
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In this video I'll share with you how I think about final layout of butt wraps, how I measure, align and apply decals/logos, and how I do my hand inscriptions. Links to all products below in the comments.
As always, there are lots of ways to do all of these things but these techniques have worked for me for decades. I sincerely hope they get you thinking and help you get the results you are looking for in your decals and inscriptions.
Tom Morgan Rodsmiths Reel Seat Alignment Fixture/Jig found here: www.tommorganr...
The highest quality and most consistent decals in the business (along with super nice folks Chuck & Debbie) can be found here. PLEASE NOTE THAT THEY SPECIALIZE IN ROD BUILDING DECALS. THEY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING AND ARE SUPER FLEXIBLE...YOU CAN GET INDIVIDUAL DECALS OR ENTIRE SHEETS: www.decalconnection.com
Sakura Gelly Roll Medium Tip Pens here (also available locally at most Michael's and Hobby Lobby locations): www.dickblick....
Heat gun used in this video found here: www.amazon.com...
Brayer roller can be found here: www.amazon.com...
Thread burnishing/packing tool - at least for now - is temporarily available here (you better move fast - I'd buy more than one!): www.northeastro...
Thrasher Rods blanks found here (highly recommended and MADE IN THE USA!): thrasherblanks...
The excellent Fuji reel seat featured in this video (PULSMPJK17) can be found here - best SPJ seat by far: anglersresourc...
Self-centering Tape Measure here: www.amazon.com...
1/8" Blue Painter's Tape here (a ton of uses): www.zoro.com/z...
Message me if you get stuck...tight wraps and tight lines!
Love Thrasher blanks! I just started using them. The quality and action for the money are great!
Totally agree...wait until you see the new Slow Pitch blanks they are releasing now. 2.5 years in development but they got them RIGHT.
Wowzer, talk about an incredible amount of great info tucked into twenty minutes! Must admit, I am quite envious of the Thrasher sticker!
Thanks Jon. I know a guy on the Thrasher stickers...if it comes to that.
@@masteringrodbuilding I'm familiar with that guy. It may be that my craftsmanship is not sticker worthy (yet) and I would have a tough time arguing the point! Kind of a Badge of Honor!!!
When centering free hand text, consider finding the center letter or numeral then writing it in the center of the space. Next, write the letters on either side of the center letter, each in their respective locations. Continue one side then the other side until the all text is written.
So this is a great tip...Don Morton or Fuzz Morgan used to teach it that (sorry fellas...can't remember who!). Unfortunately, writing with the pen I prefer to use I have to let every single letter dry for a few minutes before I can proceed or else I smear the previous letters. Personally, I have trouble keeping things straight and consistently sized when hopping back and forth...maybe I have dysgraphia? But it just shows again that there is always more than one way to do anything. Hopefully someone will read your tip, try it, and find it solves their problem. Thanks for sharing!
Appreciate the video, on how to properly, lay down decals. Simple, easy to understand, and most of all, unlike, a lot of other videos, no hands, blocking the view, of what you're doing. Since I've seen your video, I made my 1st order, with Decal Connection, found one of the Rollers, like you have, and also, have, what I'd assume, is VERY rare, Blue, Thrasher Sticker, that will perfectly match, colors, on the Thrasher, I'm currently building.
Thanks for watching and for the feedback...please like and subscribe!
I was believing you until you mentioned the blue Thrasher decal...may have to see a picture to believe that one LOL
@@masteringrodbuilding LOL Well, a picture, is worth a thousand words. Check your FB Business page messages. Liked and Subscribed.
For the record - @@oceanpyrate sent me a photo. I can confirm that a rare blue Thrasher label does in fact exist. And it's glorious.
@@masteringrodbuilding Thanks Bill. decal, is already put down, on the Rod, and your Technique, worked perfectly!
Thanks again, for the instructional video
thanks for the gelly roll pen and application tips!
You bet...thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe!
Like this reel :)
Accurate Valiant BV-300 in Silver and Blue...LOVE IT for SPJ!
i’ll swing by and wash your hands before every step of my next build if it’ll help my rods look like yours😎🤘🏼
bwahahaha...SUCCESS! My master plan finally comes together. Thanks for watching.
Nice video. Regarding handwriting with SAKURA GELLY ROLL, How long does it take to dry before applying epoxy finish? Have you ever had fade problems? I generally do a first coat of finish, when it's dry I matt with scotchbrite then I write...Thanks for the reply
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! I generally let the Sakura Gelly Roll dry overnight if possible but I have gone over as soon as 4 hours after in a 75 degree shop. FYI, I used to matte it out and quit doing that. In my experience it makes the writing easier but I can't clean up easily if I make an inevitable mistake. There's always a hazy ghosty outline of the writing I attempted to erase.
Full disclosure - I have occasionally had it lift some ink and make it hazy around the edges. But this seems to have more to do with a pen that writes heavy. If a pen (usually a new one) seems to leave a lot of ink I will blot it with a shop towel before allowing it to dry and applying finish. I have never had it 'fade' like lose visibility though. Hope this helps - let me know if I didn't answer your question.
@@masteringrodbuilding
Thanks for reply.
Update: I bought Sakura Gelly Roll to test. medium tip in three colors (white, gold, silver) and small tip in black. Test result, after writing on opaque epoxy finish and left to dry for two days 😯 at about 27° italian degree: Black is ok, it looks really dry and resistant (hard to scratch, even with nails ....) White also ok , apparently dry but not as hard as black, if you scratch it with your nails or rub it vigorously with your fingertips, it tends to disappear....Silver and Gold: absolutely not dry! I tried waiting even 2 days for these, but the writing seems to remain a little thicker than the original gel of the pen, and if you rub your finger lightly, you remove everything!!! 😯😯😯 on your video I saw you writing with the silver med, I don't understand how you could apply epoxy finish without dissolving the writing 🤔🤔🤔 also because I suppose that the silver and gold gel formula I bought doesn't change from that of the your Gelly Rolls! This is a mystery....
Really good video and helpful tips just want to no is it better writing on the finish than doing it straight on the bare blank .many thanks
Tim Clarke thanks for watching...please like and subscribe!
In my experience, I have had much better luck applying a very thin coat of finish and then applying the decal and inscription over that (vs directly onto the bare blank). I know it’s an extra step but it yields excellent and consistent results. Hope this helps!
Falconer Custom Rods I have 👍🏻
Where did you get matagi slow pitch blanks from? Have you tried any others (rainshadows, black holes and recently temple reef released blanks too)? What's your favorite? Thanks!
I got the Matagi blanks from Casey Portier at VooDoo Rods. I have tried all of the others you mention...plus others like Thrasher, AMTAK Bushido, Palmarius and CTS that I like very much. They are different and personal preference and technique come into play. Hard to beat the CTS at any price but they are not cheap.
Notice you use the Sakura Gelly pens,
I’ve been trying to do inscriptions as well but I notice the Sakura Gelly pens smear easy even after 24 hour dry time. So I have not tried laying on finish because of that observation. Am I actually okay to lay finish even if I can wipe it away after 24 hours?
Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! I have never had a problem with the Gelly pens running after letting it dry for 24 hours. That is true using both GEN4 and Flex Coat Original High Build. I have never tried to smear mine but I suspect it would smear if I tried it. I'd recommend testing on wraps on a wood dowel or scrap blank and see what you get. Good luck!
@@masteringrodbuilding that’s good info, makes sense to not touch the writing in hindsight. I will probably give it a give it a try or something on a broken rod. But really I trust your word on things like this, you’re very skilled.
Trying to do some custom rods for my groomsmen for my wedding, handwriting makes it all the more special. Thanks your help and info, I’m just starting out and a lot of your tips have helped find tune what I am doing.
Another question comes to mind as I was writing this out since you answered so quickly. I’m using the ProKote 2 part finish (as I’ve got it from mudhole), I’ve noticed in my buttwraps that it will finish with ridges that reflect the ridges of the wrap itself. It seems that with lighter coats and more coats that those ridges seem to slightly decrease. My question is, do you recommend or infer that with the addition of more, lighter, coats will I see a flatter finish in my butt wraps?
I ordered a couple of the Sakura Gelly Roll pens .05 mm tip. I can get it to write on paper but not a hard surface. What is your secret?
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe. So...couple of things. My Gelly Roll metallic pens - as shown in the video - are size MEDIUM. Not sure the tip but they are definitely bigger than 0.5. So it may be that your pen is too fine? Looks like they've changed the labeling but they sell one that is 1.0 mm tip. That will write way better than your 0.5mm.
Also, you MUST apply the Gelly Roll metallic pen over a base coat of finish. They will NOT write directly on a bare blank. So put down a very light coat of finish, let it cure completely, and then try again. That is almost certainly the problem if you are not putting down finish first.
Finally, be advised that not all metallic colors of the exact same Sakura brand pens work equally well. Silver is best...Gold and black are fine...white is iffy. The rest of them don't work well for me....including the non-metallicsbesides white and black . So if you are using something OTHER than a metallic Gelly Roll in Silver or Gold - or using a non-metallic color other than black or white - you may not have any luck.
Hope this helps...let me know if you have other questions. Good luck!
How long do you let the ink set before you apply the top coat of finish? Thx
Please forgive me for asking after hearing your clearly stated advise for perfection... but, have you ever done an inscription with the metallic extra fine point sharpie that you used in the other video laying out the dragon scale wrap?? Thanks for the advise!!
No worries - thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe!
I have never tried that metallic extra fine Sharpie for an inscription. But I don't see why it wouldn't work? I'd lay down a think coat of finish first, let that cure, and then write the inscription on top of that if it were me. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
@@masteringrodbuilding already subscribed and going to add the likes!
That was pretty close to my plan. I was considering laying down some thread, 1 coat finish, fully dry, and then do the inscription. I have a little bit of work before that point, but I will send you a message and pictures to let you know! Thanks so much for the advise!!
@@edmundr4134 I think you are on the right track. That's exactly how I'd do it. Let us know how you make out!
What did you write on the blank with? Very nice work.
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe. The pen is covered at 15:32...it's a Sakura Gelly Roll with a Medium point in silver metallic.
Hi Bill, I don't recall seeing this in the video. How long after applying your first coat of epoxy before you add the decal? I'm using Gen4 and see on their website it is tack free after 10 hours. Would this be enough time or should I wait out the 24 hours for full cure. Thank you for all the great content!
Hello John - I am also using GEN4...great stuff! I typically wait 12 hours minimum at 75 degrees F before applying the decal. Any time between 12 and 24 hours will work great.
@@masteringrodbuilding Thank you Bill, I appreciate the fast reply!
how did you rig your carriage ,i have 3 renzetti all with the old carriages and one left with good rollers definately need to get a different tracking system ..thanks
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe!
So, this is the old Renzetti (bought it in 1998 I think). But I modified the whole thing. Rather than sliding the thread carriage up and down the rod, I fixed my thread carriage and put my 8' lathe bed (minus the power head and check - just turn by hand) on sliders. So, I sit in one spot - with my light and magnifier and tools and waste basket - while the rod moves. To me this is much more convenient.
Since the lathe bed is only 8' long, I also set up the thread carriage on some T-track so that it will move about 24" in either direction. This allows me to deal with rods longer than 8' easily if necessary. I literally detached all the connecting hardware from the bottom of the metal plate on the carriage and mounted it on a chunk of 4x4. I then mounted the T-track slot and bolts through the wood block. I also fixed some large spool attachments on either side to run 4 oz spools.
Let me know if that doesn't make sense and I can shoot you some pics.
@@masteringrodbuilding thanks, i pretty much do the same thing , keep it in one place, but still on main track, but one day them rollers will be toast , should have bought a bunch of them rollers 30yrs ago!! haha!
@@biminirods8725 well if I can dig mine up you can have it. You are talking about the white plastic/polymer roller with the tightening lever...yes?
Where are you getting those decals that are press and peel?
Chuck and Debbie Brown at www.decalconnection.com - best in the business
Rod room is complete where can I send you the pictures?
falconerb@yahoo.com
I use scotch tape on both sides
I have heard about this technique but never tried it. Any tips you can share?
Do you have an online store or somewhere I can check out your rods.
Nope...these days it's 100% made to order bespoke custom rods. But would love to build you one if you are interested...DM me. Thanks for watching!
it's a brayer roller