Another great video, Lukasz & Axel. I will enjoy trying the same here in London, as and when our trains go that fast! Can I ask what brand of bag you’re carrying in this video? Happy New Year to you and look forward to more content in 2021 x
Thanks, Lukasz! I enjoy long exposure photography but have never attempted panning. Your video helps give me the tools to make an attempt soon. I just wish the trains were as long here (Texas) as they are in Japan!
Thanks for watching! Yeah, the trains here are suuuuper long! We have another video about panning that might be helpful: ua-cam.com/video/j0juegm9jFA/v-deo.html
Hey Lukasz! really good video loved it, just out of curiosity what was that calculation you did for the exposure? Thanks and keep the amazing videos coming!
I just counted the stops from the current settings. I wanted to get from 1/2 to 1/30 for the shutter speed. That's a 4 stop difference. 1/2 > 1/4 > 1/8 > 1/15 > 1/30. This means that the photo would be 4 stops darker, so I had to compensate with either ISO or aperture, and since my aperture was already maxed at f/2.8, I was forced the raise the ISO like so: 200 > 400 > 800 > 1600 > 3200. This cancels out the 4 stop decrease in light from the shutter speed, resulting in an identical exposure but complete difference settings: 1/2, ISO-200 and 1/30 ISO-3200. If I was shooting in Av or Tv, the camera would do this stuff automatically, but since I was fully on manual I had to do it myself. We have a video that explains how all this works in detail: ua-cam.com/video/ronlbtDmW28/v-deo.html
Some higher end cameras are ISO-invariant, which means it doesn't matter what ISO you shoot at, the result will be always be the same at any given ISO adjusted for comparison.
This is true, but this is just a Ricoh GRIII, not a Red 8k, lol. In this case the image was too bright at a particular ISO. You're suggesting that I could have change it in post (changing the exposure slide in ACR/Lightroom)? In my experience this never looks good on any camera I've ever used. It's best to get it right in camera and avoid overexposure.
EYExplore I’ve got a question regarding Zone Focus. Picture: I’m new to photography and don’t have the money to buy a manual focus lens, which would be ideal for zone focus from what I’ve seen. I’m using a Canon M6 Mk ii with the kit lens. 15-45mm Question: Can I set up the camera to use the zone focus technique using the kit lens and camera in manual mode and just input predetermined settings eg: Zoom in to a specific focal length, locking in an aperture etc. Would that work? If it’s possible could you perhaps do a little tutorial on it? Thank you for the wonderful content and lessons. Hope your festive was awesome guys.
Yes, it would definitely work! Have you seen our video on zone focusing? It would work exactly the same way. The only challenge is that without a focus distance gauge (like the one found on pretty much all manual focus lenses) it's going to be hard to consistently use the same zone. This is key to getting really good at zone focusing, as it allows you to eventually 'feel' the right distance for your shot.
@@EYExplore I believe I have, but I ll revisit that video. I was browsing through your videos yesterday and came across a brief explanation in your “Patience is key” if not mistaken. Right thanks for guiding me to the right spot. 👍
@@camps206 Ah yeah, sometimes I mention it briefly in longer videos, but we have this video dedicated just to zone focus: ua-cam.com/video/FZOQNf_VVXo/v-deo.html
That's right! It does not do in camera raw, so it's just a flat profile and a basic grade in Premiere. But from Feb it will support braw when using a Blackmagic external recorder, which I'm looking forward to.
Thanks guys, cool video. On the subject of IBIS, if you offered those old school photographers IBIS, I think they would have used it had it been available. People like using tools that help improve their art.
I do with some cameras, for example on my D4 it made a noticeable difference, but on my D3, Z6II and also GR II and III it seems to have little to no effect, so I don't use it.
You should stick your logo in the corner of the thumbnail for your videos. I almost accidentally scrolled right passed this in my subscription feed! I started playing around recently practicing taking panning shots. Without image stabilization it's definitely tricky. Cool effect though when you nail one.
That's a good idea! I try to go for the same 'look' to the text in each thumbnail, but a logo makes sense. You can also click the bell and get notified when we post! :) Without stabilization I find it's easier on faster targets. I wouldn't go below 1/60, which means the car/bike/train has to be moving somewhat quickly.
It's okay I think. It might mean cheaper gear. I'm sure the quality will be just fine. But I does feel cool to have that 'Made in Japan' label on the bottom of the camera. :)
A number of things, the first of which is ergonomics. The camera is easy to hold and has physical controls on its body giving you full manual control. That alone is worth it. But then you have the bigger sensor which gives better low light performance and a shallower DOF than you can get on a tiny phone sensor. Finally, it's just more fun to use than a phone (but that is subjective of course).
Z jakiego względu? Ricoh mi dal aparat bo robimy video na ich kanale, ale nie dali mi żadnego rozkazu żeby zrobić video na nasz kanał. Po prostu mam okazje is lubię Ricoh GR 2 i 3. :)
That lens you're using in that last shot has lovely rendering.
You mean for the video itself? That was the Nikon 28mm f/1.4E. I absolutely love this lens! :)
The map is such a great idea, happy to support you guys on Patreon!
Thank you so much!! :)
These footbridges makes me miss Asia so much... nice video!
Thank you!! :)
AWESOME panning shots...you make it look easy..thanks for sharing your work and tips!!!!
Thank you!! Just been doing it a long time! :)
Another very good video with useful and practical information. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!! :)
Another great video, Lukasz & Axel. I will enjoy trying the same here in London, as and when our trains go that fast! Can I ask what brand of bag you’re carrying in this video? Happy New Year to you and look forward to more content in 2021 x
Thank you! The bag is a small satchel from Squalo works. It's not a camera bag, just a standard satchel.
Love this. Are you using a new camera to film? This video looks so much cleaner and brighter than some of the older videos.
Thanks! Yes, we used my new Z6II to shoot this. That is the plan moving forward. :)
I find your videos very meditative. I live in New York I still dream of shooting the nooks and crannies of Tokyo. Thanks for doing what you do.
Thank you very much! Will keep them coming! :)
Wow I’m exceedingly surprised at how well those panning shots came out ! Great job Lukasz 👏
Thank you very much! I was a bit surprised too, haha. :)
Thanks, Lukasz! I enjoy long exposure photography but have never attempted panning. Your video helps give me the tools to make an attempt soon. I just wish the trains were as long here (Texas) as they are in Japan!
Thanks for watching! Yeah, the trains here are suuuuper long! We have another video about panning that might be helpful: ua-cam.com/video/j0juegm9jFA/v-deo.html
You can pan also cars, bikes, people
Hey Lukasz! really good video loved it, just out of curiosity what was that calculation you did for the exposure?
Thanks and keep the amazing videos coming!
I just counted the stops from the current settings. I wanted to get from 1/2 to 1/30 for the shutter speed. That's a 4 stop difference. 1/2 > 1/4 > 1/8 > 1/15 > 1/30. This means that the photo would be 4 stops darker, so I had to compensate with either ISO or aperture, and since my aperture was already maxed at f/2.8, I was forced the raise the ISO like so: 200 > 400 > 800 > 1600 > 3200. This cancels out the 4 stop decrease in light from the shutter speed, resulting in an identical exposure but complete difference settings: 1/2, ISO-200 and 1/30 ISO-3200. If I was shooting in Av or Tv, the camera would do this stuff automatically, but since I was fully on manual I had to do it myself.
We have a video that explains how all this works in detail: ua-cam.com/video/ronlbtDmW28/v-deo.html
Fantastic video!
Thank you very much!! :)
My favorite youtube notification. EYExplore
Thank you so much!! :)
Which bag do you use? thanx!
The bag I have in this video is from Squalo Works. It's not a camera bag, just a normal satchel or messenger bag.
Some higher end cameras are ISO-invariant, which means it doesn't matter what ISO you shoot at, the result will be always be the same at any given ISO adjusted for comparison.
This is true, but this is just a Ricoh GRIII, not a Red 8k, lol. In this case the image was too bright at a particular ISO. You're suggesting that I could have change it in post (changing the exposure slide in ACR/Lightroom)? In my experience this never looks good on any camera I've ever used. It's best to get it right in camera and avoid overexposure.
I really like your style. I never considered using a compact fir street photography, but it could be something that I look into.
It has it's pros and cons but it's definitely very fun! Thank you for watching! :)
Would you mind sharing the metering option for this session? Thanks for the great work
I always, 100% of the time, use Multi-segment on Ricoh, Matrix Metering on Nikon. This is also sometimes called evaluative metering.
EYExplore I’ve got a question regarding Zone Focus.
Picture: I’m new to photography and don’t have the money to buy a manual focus lens, which would be ideal for zone focus from what I’ve seen. I’m using a Canon M6 Mk ii with the kit lens. 15-45mm
Question: Can I set up the camera to use the zone focus technique using the kit lens and camera in manual mode and just input predetermined settings eg:
Zoom in to a specific focal length, locking in an aperture etc. Would that work?
If it’s possible could you perhaps do a little tutorial on it?
Thank you for the wonderful content and lessons.
Hope your festive was awesome guys.
Yes, it would definitely work! Have you seen our video on zone focusing? It would work exactly the same way. The only challenge is that without a focus distance gauge (like the one found on pretty much all manual focus lenses) it's going to be hard to consistently use the same zone. This is key to getting really good at zone focusing, as it allows you to eventually 'feel' the right distance for your shot.
@@EYExplore I believe I have, but I ll revisit that video. I was browsing through your videos yesterday and came across a brief explanation in your “Patience is key” if not mistaken.
Right thanks for guiding me to the right spot. 👍
@@camps206 Ah yeah, sometimes I mention it briefly in longer videos, but we have this video dedicated just to zone focus: ua-cam.com/video/FZOQNf_VVXo/v-deo.html
You shoot this video on the new Nikon? Quality looks great :)
That's right! It does not do in camera raw, so it's just a flat profile and a basic grade in Premiere. But from Feb it will support braw when using a Blackmagic external recorder, which I'm looking forward to.
Thanks guys, cool video. On the subject of IBIS, if you offered those old school photographers IBIS, I think they would have used it had it been available. People like using tools that help improve their art.
That's exactly how I feel about it! :)
Do you use noise reduction with long shutterspeed? Great work bye the way !!
I do with some cameras, for example on my D4 it made a noticeable difference, but on my D3, Z6II and also GR II and III it seems to have little to no effect, so I don't use it.
I would shoot at a higher F stop to make it sharper and a longer exposure to bring in more light. Lower F stop would make them less sharp overall.
Maybe, but they were plenty sharp. :)
You should stick your logo in the corner of the thumbnail for your videos. I almost accidentally scrolled right passed this in my subscription feed!
I started playing around recently practicing taking panning shots. Without image stabilization it's definitely tricky. Cool effect though when you nail one.
That's a good idea! I try to go for the same 'look' to the text in each thumbnail, but a logo makes sense. You can also click the bell and get notified when we post! :)
Without stabilization I find it's easier on faster targets. I wouldn't go below 1/60, which means the car/bike/train has to be moving somewhat quickly.
I've set up a patreon account :) you have my support; greetings from a bulgarian expat in wroclaw ;)
Thank you so much!! :)
The map is a great idea. Now I want to make one for my city. Is it made with google maps?
Thanks! I used Google My Maps.
Lukasz, how do you feel about Nikon closing in Japan?
It's okay I think. It might mean cheaper gear. I'm sure the quality will be just fine. But I does feel cool to have that 'Made in Japan' label on the bottom of the camera. :)
@@EYExplore agreed!
Fajne, dzięki.
Dziękuję!! :)
How could you justify ricoh gr iii over a phone ?
A number of things, the first of which is ergonomics. The camera is easy to hold and has physical controls on its body giving you full manual control. That alone is worth it. But then you have the bigger sensor which gives better low light performance and a shallower DOF than you can get on a tiny phone sensor. Finally, it's just more fun to use than a phone (but that is subjective of course).
reklama ???
Z jakiego względu? Ricoh mi dal aparat bo robimy video na ich kanale, ale nie dali mi żadnego rozkazu żeby zrobić video na nasz kanał. Po prostu mam okazje is lubię Ricoh GR 2 i 3. :)