Love the mods, I would recommend adding support braces from the block/heads to the turbo and carb assy as all the vibration will prob crack welds and or break the housings of various components
@@khrprod you can still run a carb setup too lean or rich. An AFR gauge is literally for monitoring the ratio so you can see in real time how well tuned the carb is.
the "exhaust pressure relief dump" is called a wastegate and u should be able to get different springs for it instead of pinching the line, some people also add t's into the wastegate reference line which is a little better then pinching it off, u just vent the t to atmosphere and it will give u a few more lbs of boost
Or weld the waste gate shut. 😂 Naw they might have to buy a new waste gate actuator and fab it on there to get the right spring pressure, ebay turbos are hit and miss with aftermarket parts
Even though it's a small engine/turbo don't forget the proper sized restrictor for the oil feed into the turbo. Will blow the seals out of the little guy in no time.
Journal bearing turbos should not have a restrictor. You can’t “blow the seals” out of a turbo as the seals are actually steel and similar to a piston ring. If oil is being pushed past the seals either the bearings are shot, drain is too restrictive or from excessive crank case pressures due to poor crankcase venting.
Very very important to restrict. Bleed to much off the engine wont get enough flow.. i know a guy that didnt have restrictor and kept burning out cam bearing from lack of flow
@@junkyardboost8372 you can push oil past the seal with too much pressure, that creates a lean mix in the intake creating a possible overrun, or goes out the exhaust side where it can ignite and overrun the engine/turbo. Either scenario leads to things getting hot, running out of oil, and failing.
Looks like everybody’s a little bit right, I think the feeding line restriction helps keep your engine alive, but the biggest problem is people hear of restricted oil flow typically is the drain back getting coked up
Try a larger intake plenum so the engine draws from a larger pool. idle might get better as the cost of slightly longer time to build boost. Though it might be steadier once pressurized.
They can build a boost capacitor, in a sense it’s like a 2 strokes expansion exhaust but on the intake. Basically it buffers the lag out some by banking some pressure up
@@dylanzrim3635 Yup, single/twin cylinder engine's exhaust pulse is a lot rougher than something with more cylinders. Your only getting 1 or 2 pulses per engine revolution rather than 4 or 8 like a car engine. It leads to the turbo kind of pulsing, which is why their boost gauge was jumping around so much. A "boost capacitor" will help even out the pulsation
Use hard pipe for the intake. Replace that rubber with aluminum or try flexible pvc. They use it for pools and water fountains. It's expensive but easier than welding aluminum.
Pvc doesn't hold up to fuel or heat at all. Silicone handles the heat but not fuel or vacuum. A wire reinforced fuel filler hose would be the best easy option
@@Mrshotshell fair. I should have thought about the fuel, as that is what makes PVC glue work. The flexible would be better than regular PVC. But since this is a pull-through setup. You are right.
@@jimbagle.3939 I was about to say “ew” at the pull through, but finding a boost ready small engine fuel metering system to blow through isn’t going to be easy
Draw through setups can work, especially on small engines. the lever that you see on the turbo is your waste gate actuator rod. smart cars probably only run a couple pounds of boost so the waste gate opens early, due to a 4-5 psi spring in the waste gate actuator. That or the engine exhaust is just using brute force and pushing open the waste gate due to the lake or waste gate spring pressure, use a manual boost controller in line with the waste gate hose and you’ll be able to control it. If the waste gate keeps opening early then you might need to look into an external waste gate or another turbo with a higher psi spring in the waste gate actuator. The small amount of smoke is being caused by the vacuum in the compressor housing, the vacuum is pulling the oil past the seals because the seals were designed to seal under pressure, not vacuum, to solve this you’ll need to find a way to install carbon seals into the current turbo, or find a turbo that you can install carbon seals into. Like ikr said the hose is collapsing because it’s under vacuum, a spring in the hose can work, or you’ll have to switch to a solid pipe. Address those things, turn up the boost, tune the carb and it’ll run great. Like I said a draw through setup can work good!
❓🤔 I'm no expert when it comes to turbocharging(unless I lie about it. Lol). But your list of ideas sounds logical to me. The only one I have a concern with is the concept of a "manual wastegate lever". I've never driven a micro-dragster, but I wonder if a driver would have the ability to effectively activate a manual wastegate lever in a timely and consistent fashion, while in the heat of a race? If there was any significant inconsistency in a driver's ability to activate the wastegate at just the right boost levels, I'd assume that may have a negative effect if the driver was bracket racing, where e.t. consistency is paramount. (❓)
@@HighlanderNorth1 I’m sorry I didn’t mean to describe a manual boost controller like it was a driver operated lever that opens and closes a waste gate, it’s much more simple than that. A manual boost controller is basically just an air bleed valve or restricter, it connects in line with the pressurized intake and the waste gate actuator. Basically just let’s less pressurized air to make it to the waste gate actuator so the actuator opens at a higher overall boost pressure. It’s called a manual controller cause it’s adjusted manually via a screw or knob on the controller, vs a traditional boost controller that is usually controlled by an ecu or in some extreme circumstances can be used in conjunction with co2. A manual controller is just more simple and makes more sense to use in this application
@@Tilted-Garage Ok, thanks. It didn't seem logical otherwise. It would be kinda weird for a driver to have to manually work a lever to release excess boost pressure. He'd have to drive the car while watching a boost gauge to detect excess boost pressure. If there was no boost gauge, then it would be even weirder.... He'd have to "manually estimate" excess boost pressure in order to determine when to pull the manual wastegate lever! The setup I described would be a real head-scratcher for other engine builders and racers at the local track! But the thing you just described makes more sense.
I feel like they should do a couple more forced induction builds and get it nailed down before going to nitrous. That said, I would definitely not be sad if they jumped right to nitrous!
It's just like the old days except they are now using plasma tables in a huge new shop instead of their parents kitchen tables and borrowed garages lol
@@mikedrop4421 I can't hate on what John and crew have built, but man, I do miss a little of the charm of the O.G. Rat Rod Wagon, the turbo drift trike, and the offroading through the neighborhood culvert. Those were the days!
I had no idea you were working on this build again. I'm laid up with a back injury, and just spend the last 2 days going down the rabbit hole of this entire build, just because of the 670, and I wanted to know what it could do, and lo and behold, I finally get caught up and I see the vid of it running the track again last night, then TODAY I'm treated to the next chapter!!! I can't express how much I love watching you guys work, and the inspiration I get to tackle my own projects. You guys are entertaining to watch, very educational, and I'm glad that you guys are able to do this for your job, because that is the dream, right? If you enjoy what you do, you'll never work a day in your life!
OH, but for the new people that haven't gone down the rabbit hole yet, please update the Rail Playlist, because you have several vids after the build that are part of the "legacy" of this car, and there's not really a "sort by date" button I could find to follow the saga in order. I got it mostly figured out, but yeah, add the vids to the playlist in order please :)
You guys and your projects keep getting awesome and amazing every day, and this video did it a hundred-fold! John, Ike, Charles, keep it up! The Harbor Freight 670 Dragster is one of my favorite projects, and it's gotten more awesome with the turbo. Can't wait to see it go down the track!
Love the content! Hoping my health situation improves because I have 7 various engines ranging from 1.5 to 10 hP to clean up and build and 2 minibike frames to put them on. Ones a doodle bug from the 80's the other I'm not sure but it's bigger. My daughter is always bugging me about working on them. Man... I can't wait to teach her.
Very unique build. This is just something I thought of while watching this video and hearing you guys talk about high horsepower. For safety, you guys might consider running a steel cable around the rear head incase you have an overboost situation or something and rip the thing apart. People do that on the big boosted Cummins engines in case of block failure, and with this being a stock block pushing out more power than it was designed for, it'd be cheap insurance so you don't have a head flopping into your lap down the drag strip. Love the build series, fellas.
Love you guys. So happy to see you revisit older projects like the ones that built this channel. You have learned so much, so it is awesome to see what you would fix on your own builds. Keep up the great work!
Another issue you might have with a draw-through setup is the manifold vacuum pulling oil past the seals in the turbo. If the exhaust gets smokey, that's probably why.
Simple fix for that might be running a bare throttle body after the turbo that's synced up with the carb so its equally restricted on both sides of the turbo during partial throttle and idle
In my opinion i think that it's better if you put the carb after the turbo, so you have a better nebulozation on the gas, but it eorks well also like this!! Great men!
it was quite comedic hearing yall work your way through figuring out what a wastegate does, it dumps exhaust past the turbo to regulate the boost pressure.
A carb creates latent heat evaporation and acts as a "intercooler" and drastically reduces intake air temps. None of the guys who use "blow through" boost with a carb use intercoolers so you'll be good there. Your carb on the draw through will be more of a restriction vs a blow through but as you said, you don't need anything to up the fuel pressure like you do with a blow through. If your clutch has enough "slip" to get the RPM's up you should be OK but it will be more laggy than a blow through. You will need to rejet the carb in any of the variants or it's going to run really lean.
To stop blow through carbs leaking you build a pressure box around them so the seals have boost pressure on both sides. And a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to stop the boost pushing fuel back
You could use the mailbox as a plenum if its airtight under boost 😂, you need a plenum that has more cc than the engine to get good results anyways, otherwise you get invisible (on gauge) boost drops after the intake valve opens since there is not much volume of compressed air between the turbo and engine so the boost drops as the volume of air gets pushed into the cylinder so you might end up with about half the boost the gauge shows in your cylinder on lower rpm you would even be able to see the boost gauge needle vibrating but it gest less visible on higher rpm, but you guys probably know that and the mailbox could stay and still make it look cool 😂. edit. The up pipe from the turbo is in the perfect spot to use the mailbox as a plenum 😂, you got to do it now it would fit so good and a plenum is really important for a happy turbo engine, you could even put a big intercooler in between to also act like a plenum and give you more power with the cooler air.
@CarsandCameras the pipe going from the turbo outlet to the engine intake ,replace it with a metal tube ,a carb or a throttle on a fuel injection when idle is going to create negative pressure in the intake manifold, in this case ,the black soft pipe
Hey guys, have a bit of experience here and may be able to help, happy to chat further. For your oil return, spooly bois love little to no resistance for the drain line. Just make sure that vent hose is nice and clear or consider tapping a fitting into the block somewhere. Pinching the line to the wastegate can get you in a nasty overboost scenario under load. Turbo can blow up quickly as can your engine. A cheap solution for your wastegate issue would be a bleed “t”, any half decent 90 degree valve will do - I’ve even seen plumbing or gas fittings used in the past! Next up you’ll need to be aware of your afr under load considering the right ratios for your chosen fuel. Running very rich might be the best option here, keep your temps down. Finally you might want to gap down your plugs a bit. Very very cool to see you guys stepping into and learning about the turbo word. Never clicked like on a video so fast!! Cannot wait to see it rip!
@@neoxela00 the builds of late have been a touch boring but i really want this to work for them so fingers crossed for our sake and theirs they see this comment and this can get them back again. ive been stuck on grind hard plumbing atm
Very cool! But with that much power going into that engine, I feel like you need to build more of a shield in front of you just in the scary scenario that the piston that's pointing back at your head decides to go through the head of the engine!
I vote down the road to go for a blow through carb, you could use a FMU with a vacuum/boost reference something like a 10:1 so for every pound of boost your fuel pressure goes up 10lbs, it’s a real cheat when turbo charging a car with stock ecu and no tune!
@@SKOMPAS you can feed pressurized fuel to a carb, in fact you have to in a blow through setup. What you need to do is also feed that boost to all of the vents on the carb and make sure it's sealed up properly.
One MAJOR advantage to a draw-through system is that the fuel evaporating as it passes through the turbo will pull a ton of heat from the intake charge, acting as an improvised intercooler and helping to control engine temps and detonation.
Love the build guys! Was commenting on the turbo clocking then issac said exactly what I was thinking but mentioned the turbo is not adjustable that way, bummer but it will be fine!😊
For the intake tube being squished on idle, wouldn't it be the right idea to have the carburetor sit in place of that tube, like what Robot Cantina experienced in one of his Street Legal Gokart build episodes? He had the same issue happening, but with throttle bodies
It is the same issue except that car is fuel injected. That will not work here. Also, Jimbo goes on long rides. This thing only runs a few minutes at a time.
@@jimbagle.3939 It can work with the carb after the turbo, but then the carb needs to be sealed. Think the overflow needs to be plugged and fuel system pressurized.
@@thefunniestfarm4731 another way to do it is to build a sealed enclosure around the carb so the float bowl vent also sees boost pressure, this was done years ago on turbo kits made by gale banks engineering before fuel injection became economically feasable.
I basically haven’t seen this show since y’all built the dragster. I’m loving the idea of this turbo. Back in 86 I had a Mustang SVO pushing 18 psi. It definitely was making more power than a GT back then. Anyway, I can’t wait for you fools to hit the road with this bad boy!
I love how they are always so safety conscious to say “cover” when welding. But in this one when he said it and the other two just kept right on working looking right towards it I laughed my ass off. Y’all are the living embodiment of car guys 😂
not sure if anyone talked about this already but it seams as though you should regulate the oil return with an orifice or regulator to fill the turbo and keep the pressure up.
With that fuel delivery/carb there's a chance of drenching the driver with fuel really fast if it's not done right. Run a separate oil tank for the turbo, it's simpler, and safer for both the engine and turbo..
To bad ya couldn't 2 step it and somehow transbreak for it but I'm just glad ya got it running down track again and a Lil holly dominator system would be the balls and never forget the programmable ECM .bit I would definitely say a small parachute will be in order o r and a gfewood pair of break but great video and stay safe
Well poop guys, I've been begging you guys for a while now to take the supermower around the grand prix while not even realizing that it was the same engine as the drag rail! New idea suggestion: get a used rider, swap pulleys, get a lap time, then spice up the engine, steering/suspension, etc and get competing lap times!
the problem with running a draw through system the oil seal on the compressor side is not designed to have a vacuum on it and can cause it to pull oil from the turbo when the throttle is shut, blow through always makes more power as well.
Also, that flap is the wastegate. It's there to control turbo speed, which controls boost. The Smart car probably has a boost controller on it which limits the pressure to the canister.
The collapsing intake tube is because theres high vacuum idle and its not a solid tube. The spring inside the rubber hose is a perfect idea without risking multiple leaks on a welded pipe. Keep it up boys.
I would go with a larger or longer charge pipe. It needs more volume, this will help with idle. It is a very common misconception that long turbo piping increases turbo lag. This is not true, it has been tested over and over. If the turbo piping was some crazy length(20ft for a setup like this) then yes it might make a difference but for yalls purposes, turbo lag will not be an issue.
More piping or big diameter just makes more volume for the turbo to fill up....not gonna do anything for them in this application. If anything they need to ditch the air filter and just throw a velocity stack on it.
For a blow through set up yes a airbox to blow into the carb would help with idle but this is draw through set up it will be fine they just need to hard like that charge pipe and have short joiners not one big floppy hose
That dragster is actually lighter than the typical 55 HP motorcycle that is vastly faster! Suspecting a further gearing/belting problem... Use Oldsmobile Turbo Rocket fluid as was used stock on 1962 Jetfires: ua-cam.com/video/Jzw5W1rRMog/v-deo.html
@@BuzzLOLOL not if that's what your entire fuel supply is. Mixture only works if you're using it on TOP of another fuel like gasoline. If you're running pure methanol, 50:50 water/meth would be worse.
If you drill a tiny hole in that wastegate line it will work like pinching it off. Just drill more holes if you need more boost. Start small. And yeah you need a solid intake pipe .
A thing I saw working very good with the pull trough setup is running the carb at WOT and having a normal butterfly throttle after the turbo. As far as I know that will eliminate the collapsing of the tube also. Great video as always!
Love seeing you using your plasma table in the gorgeous new shop. I've been watching for years since the days of you using old kitchen tables in borrowed garages lol. Keep up the great work!
Be sure to do some plug checks to see if it's rich or lean and to check for detonation. Typically you want to go one or two steps colder on the plugs too. Patiently waiting for the next drag day video!
Also Blow through: 1) better throttle response as the throttle is closer to the combustion chamber, 2) latent heat of vaporisation means that the intake charge gets cooled without the need of an intercooler as the fuel mist cools the intage charge, 3) better per-cylinder distribution of fuel mix. Draw through: the opposite of that^, not-as-good throttle response, your intake temps are still high and after going through the impeller the fuel mixture is messed up (normal boundry layer air effects are reduced). So it can work in the sense that allot of "temporary fixes" but that's it.
You guys are doing great! I would like to recommend that you properly gap your piston’s rings now that you’re adding forced induction. In order from top to bottom, 1st ring: bore x 0.0060, 2nd ring: bore x 0.0050, 3rd ring: 0.015. Ensure that your rings are squared in the bore when checking the gap. This can be done use the piston with one ring on it. Make sure that the gap doesn’t have V shape, it should be perfectly straight. Good luck, I can wait to see it in the track!
Correct me if i'm wrong. The reason why throttle response isn't changing, is because you haven't trim piston for bigger turbo so the engine compression remain the same. However, when boost kicks, it adds more compression so engine would heat more (supposedly). I would personally interested on turbocharging carburetors engine cuz it's hard as hell to get the jetting done. What i can think of, is getting a power jet carburetors for that
Get a wideband air fuel ratio guage. You can go real lean real quick with a turbo and melt the engine. And build a relatively large intake plenum to help smooth out the turbo pulse from the v-twin. this thing should be a riot once the kinks are worked out
I love Ike's smile when you got it running. Such complete joy and excitement. Try flexible exhaust pipe for the intake pipe, it won't collapse. You need to see if you can adjust launch rpm, if needed
Oh, and now it begins. Turbo fever. 😏 If you get that turbo to deliver enough boost... you're gonna be making a lot more boosted builds, I just know it. I'm looking forward to seeing it rip down the track. And....I'm going with Charles, it definitely needs a bigger turbo. 😁 "We neutraled our 4L60" 😂 Nice to see that it's a GM... Be safe and have fun guys! Greetings from Northern Sweden! 🇸🇪
A trick I used on an old turbo car I had was a little valve installed T'd into the vacuum line to the waste gate so I could basically have an adjustable vacuum leak to atmosphere so I could adjust my boost.
Try not to slam the throttle closed on this setup unless you want to suck oil right through the intake side of the turbo. It creates huge vacuum spikes between the carb and intake spool. It's a good way to destroy seals.
The exhaust cut out is vallen the wastegate. It caps te max amount of boost. With a manual or electronic boost controller you can adjust how much boost pressure it will run. You can also manually change the springrate
When you need to make a manifold for something like that you can put the turbo on a scanner and scan it into the pc, import the scan into your cad program and trace it. It’ll save you so much time measuring and makes it really easy to get right.
If it lags the volume of the piping isnt the problem, unless it so small its restrictive. The turbo can fill those pipes 50 times over in 1 second. Lag is when there is not enough exhaust flow to get the turbo spinning. You have to rev it higher, or get a more restrictive exhaust housing to create more exhaust pressure to spin the turbo up sooner. Thats glossing over but true in general.
Use aluminum tubing for the boost piping with boost couplers for the turns to prevent the hose from collapsing and get an A/F gauge so you can make sure you don't lean it out too much.
In a blow through you can put the carb in an airtight box. The SA publication 'the Carter carburetor' has a pic of a 4bbl install on a V8 and it's a 2 piece box with a series of over center latches like OEM air cleaners have holding the 2 halves together IIRC. You're probably going to lose a bit of boost pressure up the throttle cable - it's only a small leak. The bottom part of the box is an integrated base gasket. Doing it like this has a lot of advantages as the carb is still load sensing in the traditional sense by pressure differential of float bowl vs Venturi vacuum as it is when it was NA. The ratios remain the same because the whole carb is pressurized. You have to use solid floats (but the float[s] may be solid anyhow) they can't be hollow plastic or brass because they collapse. Apart from jetting and a stiffer throttle return spring you don't need to change much else. Disadvantages? - less charge cooling. The way you have it now you get good charge cooling. In fact suck through supercharging was not an insignificant discovery in the first part of the 20th Century. If you get 15psi you should nearly double your power.
you are setting up for a exhaust pulse back feed on the piping from the head to the turbo. what you want to do is cut it down and put a buffer box to the turbo so the turbo gets even pressure. the exhaust pulse is going to jump from side to side and pulse the turbo.
I agree I think to fix that hose collapsing you need a stiffer maybe even a bigger diameter hose. I think it's just the turbo causing it to collapse and if you put a bigger turbo on there it would just get worse
I had a 1981 KZT 1000 with the ATP 1134 CC TURBO KIT. The kit came with a 4 into 1 exhaust header that had the adjustable waste gate between header and turbo (RAJAY) IT HAD A MODIFIED Zenith carb attached via two studs and nuts to the air intake of the turbo. the turbo mounted by hose to a intake manifold that replaced the OEM carbs. there was a water reservoir that supplied water to the carb intake when boosting. the water inhibits pre detonation at extreme boost pressure. the carb had a hole drilled into the main jet about 1/16" in size and located inside the float bowl. when the turbo spooled up the fuel would be drawn through that 1/16 inch hole bypassing the high speed tuning needle and minimized turbo lag when above 4K RPM, the engine would surge 6K RPM indicating it was trying to boost at that surge (6K) no turbo lag. I you drill a 1/32 " hole in main jet extreme turbo lag through the RPM range. no mod on main jet = turbo lag only no boost. the system above is draw though timing advance 36 BTDC
Man...idk how many small engine turbo builds I've seen where EFI is avoided due to cost. I mean my hats off to anyone with a successful channel, and you guys are among the ranks of many... It's just that for any automotive turbo build, doing boost without EFI is a rarity, so everyone's used to seeing power gain medians based on the presences of EFI, while in the small engine/air cooled arena, no one's able to show the gains had by EFI, rather it's with an Ecrons kit, or something semi-universal like a Speeduino used.
A little tip for making custom dxfs for 2.5D cnc cutting in Fusion360. Take a picture of the surface right next to a ruler or scale, then import it into Fusion as a canvas and scale up the image to match to scale of your working plane. Then you can easily trace the surface and edges.
The lever is call a manual waste gate, it allows a certain amount of exhaust to spin the turbo when that amount is approached it opens and slows the turbo, you can adjust boost by tightening or loosening the rod or you can buy a boost controller
Y’all might need an intermediary oil tank that ups the overall oil volume in the system. Something between the turbo return to engine is where I suggest. Just to make sure there’s plenty of oil in that bottom end.
This install was shockingly simple! Now we just need our methanol and a few supporting mods and we'll be off to the dyno for a tune!
I just posted about how a tiny nitrous shot before the impeller can cool down and spool up, should try it.
And I dig all your builds
I remember when it was on the mower that was something I wanted to do
@@spyder7758 I use nitrous shot (18hp jet) into the compressor to spool my Miata, works really good, drops the intake air temps as bunch too.
you should put a lot bigger turbo on that
set the turbo up in pull through config and then to compensate for the extra lag... add NOS injection after the turbo
Love the mods, I would recommend adding support braces from the block/heads to the turbo and carb assy as all the vibration will prob crack welds and or break the housings of various components
I’d also invest in a air to fuel ratio gauge (afr) it is Extremely important with a turbo set up
Yes this should be too comment, afr gauges are not only for efi tuning
There is no point for afr gauge because it sucks the needed fuel still from the carb and it dont go lean if carb is tuned correctly
@@khrprod 🤦♂️ the afr gauge would be TO MAKE SURE that the carb is tuned correctly
@@khrprod afr is a tuning tool used to see how rich or lean it’s running tho
@@khrprod you can still run a carb setup too lean or rich. An AFR gauge is literally for monitoring the ratio so you can see in real time how well tuned the carb is.
the "exhaust pressure relief dump" is called a wastegate and u should be able to get different springs for it instead of pinching the line, some people also add t's into the wastegate reference line which is a little better then pinching it off, u just vent the t to atmosphere and it will give u a few more lbs of boost
Or weld the waste gate shut. 😂 Naw they might have to buy a new waste gate actuator and fab it on there to get the right spring pressure, ebay turbos are hit and miss with aftermarket parts
Can't change springs in those....but you can undo the bracket and put washers under it essentially shimming it making the spring stiffer.
@@gaboonviper85 Or use an manual boost controller. Aka a controlled boost leak in the wastegate line
A manual boost controller would be best, so they could bleed the boost pressure so the wastegate will stay closed longer
@@Mrshotshell that would be ideal for sure.
Even though it's a small engine/turbo don't forget the proper sized restrictor for the oil feed into the turbo. Will blow the seals out of the little guy in no time.
Journal bearing turbos should not have a restrictor. You can’t “blow the seals” out of a turbo as the seals are actually steel and similar to a piston ring. If oil is being pushed past the seals either the bearings are shot, drain is too restrictive or from excessive crank case pressures due to poor crankcase venting.
Very very important to restrict. Bleed to much off the engine wont get enough flow.. i know a guy that didnt have restrictor and kept burning out cam bearing from lack of flow
@@junkyardboost8372 you can push oil past the seal with too much pressure, that creates a lean mix in the intake creating a possible overrun, or goes out the exhaust side where it can ignite and overrun the engine/turbo. Either scenario leads to things getting hot, running out of oil, and failing.
Looks like everybody’s a little bit right, I think the feeding line restriction helps keep your engine alive, but the biggest problem is people hear of restricted oil flow typically is the drain back getting coked up
@@junkyardboost8372 q
Please
Try a larger intake plenum so the engine draws from a larger pool. idle might get better as the cost of slightly longer time to build boost. Though it might be steadier once pressurized.
Definitely needs more manifold volume
They can build a boost capacitor, in a sense it’s like a 2 strokes expansion exhaust but on the intake. Basically it buffers the lag out some by banking some pressure up
@@dylanzrim3635 Yup, single/twin cylinder engine's exhaust pulse is a lot rougher than something with more cylinders. Your only getting 1 or 2 pulses per engine revolution rather than 4 or 8 like a car engine. It leads to the turbo kind of pulsing, which is why their boost gauge was jumping around so much. A "boost capacitor" will help even out the pulsation
Use hard pipe for the intake. Replace that rubber with aluminum or try flexible pvc. They use it for pools and water fountains.
It's expensive but easier than welding aluminum.
Pvc doesn't hold up to fuel or heat at all. Silicone handles the heat but not fuel or vacuum. A wire reinforced fuel filler hose would be the best easy option
@@Mrshotshell fair. I should have thought about the fuel, as that is what makes PVC glue work.
The flexible would be better than regular PVC. But since this is a pull-through setup. You are right.
@@jimbagle.3939 I was about to say “ew” at the pull through, but finding a boost ready small engine fuel metering system to blow through isn’t going to be easy
Or use sch80 pvc you can shape it anyway you want with a hand torch
I agree just a piece of aluminum pipe with 2 couplers at each end would work great
Draw through setups can work, especially on small engines. the lever that you see on the turbo is your waste gate actuator rod. smart cars probably only run a couple pounds of boost so the waste gate opens early, due to a 4-5 psi spring in the waste gate actuator. That or the engine exhaust is just using brute force and pushing open the waste gate due to the lake or waste gate spring pressure, use a manual boost controller in line with the waste gate hose and you’ll be able to control it. If the waste gate keeps opening early then you might need to look into an external waste gate or another turbo with a higher psi spring in the waste gate actuator. The small amount of smoke is being caused by the vacuum in the compressor housing, the vacuum is pulling the oil past the seals because the seals were designed to seal under pressure, not vacuum, to solve this you’ll need to find a way to install carbon seals into the current turbo, or find a turbo that you can install carbon seals into. Like ikr said the hose is collapsing because it’s under vacuum, a spring in the hose can work, or you’ll have to switch to a solid pipe. Address those things, turn up the boost, tune the carb and it’ll run great. Like I said a draw through setup can work good!
There is no spring in internal waste gates.only on externals
❓🤔 I'm no expert when it comes to turbocharging(unless I lie about it. Lol). But your list of ideas sounds logical to me. The only one I have a concern with is the concept of a "manual wastegate lever". I've never driven a micro-dragster, but I wonder if a driver would have the ability to effectively activate a manual wastegate lever in a timely and consistent fashion, while in the heat of a race?
If there was any significant inconsistency in a driver's ability to activate the wastegate at just the right boost levels, I'd assume that may have a negative effect if the driver was bracket racing, where e.t. consistency is paramount. (❓)
@@HighlanderNorth1 I’m sorry I didn’t mean to describe a manual boost controller like it was a driver operated lever that opens and closes a waste gate, it’s much more simple than that. A manual boost controller is basically just an air bleed valve or restricter, it connects in line with the pressurized intake and the waste gate actuator. Basically just let’s less pressurized air to make it to the waste gate actuator so the actuator opens at a higher overall boost pressure. It’s called a manual controller cause it’s adjusted manually via a screw or knob on the controller, vs a traditional boost controller that is usually controlled by an ecu or in some extreme circumstances can be used in conjunction with co2. A manual controller is just more simple and makes more sense to use in this application
@@Tilted-Garage
Ok, thanks. It didn't seem logical otherwise. It would be kinda weird for a driver to have to manually work a lever to release excess boost pressure. He'd have to drive the car while watching a boost gauge to detect excess boost pressure. If there was no boost gauge, then it would be even weirder.... He'd have to "manually estimate" excess boost pressure in order to determine when to pull the manual wastegate lever!
The setup I described would be a real head-scratcher for other engine builders and racers at the local track! But the thing you just described makes more sense.
Vote for Turbo! And a tiny nitrous shot just before the impeller can have stunning results! Cools down, spools up! Try it!
👍🤙
100% Correct
Do it!!! Yee-haw😲
I feel like they should do a couple more forced induction builds and get it nailed down before going to nitrous. That said, I would definitely not be sad if they jumped right to nitrous!
Must be a Mullet fan.
Guys I'm excited about this one! The rail is my favorite build. Can't wait to see this thing realize it's potential.
Now, this episode feels like old school C&C!! The rail is one of my faves! You guys rock!😎✌️🤙💪☺️
It's just like the old days except they are now using plasma tables in a huge new shop instead of their parents kitchen tables and borrowed garages lol
@@mikedrop4421 I can't hate on what John and crew have built, but man, I do miss a little of the charm of the O.G. Rat Rod Wagon, the turbo drift trike, and the offroading through the neighborhood culvert. Those were the days!
Yeah, I love this one too!
@@mikedrop4421 !0%__#%%)_1
I had no idea you were working on this build again. I'm laid up with a back injury, and just spend the last 2 days going down the rabbit hole of this entire build, just because of the 670, and I wanted to know what it could do, and lo and behold, I finally get caught up and I see the vid of it running the track again last night, then TODAY I'm treated to the next chapter!!! I can't express how much I love watching you guys work, and the inspiration I get to tackle my own projects. You guys are entertaining to watch, very educational, and I'm glad that you guys are able to do this for your job, because that is the dream, right? If you enjoy what you do, you'll never work a day in your life!
OH, but for the new people that haven't gone down the rabbit hole yet, please update the Rail Playlist, because you have several vids after the build that are part of the "legacy" of this car, and there's not really a "sort by date" button I could find to follow the saga in order. I got it mostly figured out, but yeah, add the vids to the playlist in order please :)
This is one project I’ve been waiting to come back, builds are amazing to which few can accomplish.
I believe Ike was wearing his " IM GONNA GO REALLY FAST" face.
And Mr C really shined in this episode..
John also wore a "oh oh" face
You guys and your projects keep getting awesome and amazing every day, and this video did it a hundred-fold! John, Ike, Charles, keep it up! The Harbor Freight 670 Dragster is one of my favorite projects, and it's gotten more awesome with the turbo. Can't wait to see it go down the track!
completely agree
Love the content! Hoping my health situation improves because I have 7 various engines ranging from 1.5 to 10 hP to clean up and build and 2 minibike frames to put them on. Ones a doodle bug from the 80's the other I'm not sure but it's bigger. My daughter is always bugging me about working on them. Man... I can't wait to teach her.
A micro squirt efi would set it off. To have timing tables, and control of afr should be able to push it into triple digits safely.
Yep. I've suggested they go standalone on every one of their turbo builds. Really not much more in cost to do it right
@@swandonovan they did with the turbo drift trike years ago
Very unique build. This is just something I thought of while watching this video and hearing you guys talk about high horsepower. For safety, you guys might consider running a steel cable around the rear head incase you have an overboost situation or something and rip the thing apart. People do that on the big boosted Cummins engines in case of block failure, and with this being a stock block pushing out more power than it was designed for, it'd be cheap insurance so you don't have a head flopping into your lap down the drag strip. Love the build series, fellas.
Love you guys. So happy to see you revisit older projects like the ones that built this channel. You have learned so much, so it is awesome to see what you would fix on your own builds. Keep up the great work!
That's excellent be great to see a couple of pulls down the track, looks like it might fly, all the best to yous and your loved ones
Another issue you might have with a draw-through setup is the manifold vacuum pulling oil past the seals in the turbo. If the exhaust gets smokey, that's probably why.
Simple fix for that might be running a bare throttle body after the turbo that's synced up with the carb so its equally restricted on both sides of the turbo during partial throttle and idle
In my opinion i think that it's better if you put the carb after the turbo, so you have a better nebulozation on the gas, but it eorks well also like this!! Great men!
Dude I love the fact that you guys put so much content into each episode, keep it up you guys are the dream team!
it was quite comedic hearing yall work your way through figuring out what a wastegate does, it dumps exhaust past the turbo to regulate the boost pressure.
This is gonna be epic going down the track! You guys did a great job.
A carb creates latent heat evaporation and acts as a "intercooler" and drastically reduces intake air temps. None of the guys who use "blow through" boost with a carb use intercoolers so you'll be good there. Your carb on the draw through will be more of a restriction vs a blow through but as you said, you don't need anything to up the fuel pressure like you do with a blow through. If your clutch has enough "slip" to get the RPM's up you should be OK but it will be more laggy than a blow through. You will need to rejet the carb in any of the variants or it's going to run really lean.
Can't they just, nvm bad idea lol
"A turbo is never a blind spot!" Should be your next t-shirt.
To stop blow through carbs leaking you build a pressure box around them so the seals have boost pressure on both sides. And a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to stop the boost pushing fuel back
You could use the mailbox as a plenum if its airtight under boost 😂, you need a plenum that has more cc than the engine to get good results anyways, otherwise you get invisible (on gauge) boost drops after the intake valve opens since there is not much volume of compressed air between the turbo and engine so the boost drops as the volume of air gets pushed into the cylinder so you might end up with about half the boost the gauge shows in your cylinder on lower rpm you would even be able to see the boost gauge needle vibrating but it gest less visible on higher rpm, but you guys probably know that and the mailbox could stay and still make it look cool 😂.
edit.
The up pipe from the turbo is in the perfect spot to use the mailbox as a plenum 😂, you got to do it now it would fit so good and a plenum is really important for a happy turbo engine, you could even put a big intercooler in between to also act like a plenum and give you more power with the cooler air.
@CarsandCameras the pipe going from the turbo outlet to the engine intake ,replace it with a metal tube ,a carb or a throttle on a fuel injection when idle is going to create negative pressure in the intake manifold, in this case ,the black soft pipe
Hey guys, have a bit of experience here and may be able to help, happy to chat further.
For your oil return, spooly bois love little to no resistance for the drain line. Just make sure that vent hose is nice and clear or consider tapping a fitting into the block somewhere.
Pinching the line to the wastegate can get you in a nasty overboost scenario under load. Turbo can blow up quickly as can your engine.
A cheap solution for your wastegate issue would be a bleed “t”, any half decent 90 degree valve will do - I’ve even seen plumbing or gas fittings used in the past!
Next up you’ll need to be aware of your afr under load considering the right ratios for your chosen fuel. Running very rich might be the best option here, keep your temps down.
Finally you might want to gap down your plugs a bit.
Very very cool to see you guys stepping into and learning about the turbo word. Never clicked like on a video so fast!! Cannot wait to see it rip!
this comment needs to be put at the top asap. i was the same with clicking asap when i seen the turbo haha
@@RejectedOutcast I hope they see it, would be a shame to see the project grind to a halt.
@@neoxela00 the builds of late have been a touch boring but i really want this to work for them so fingers crossed for our sake and theirs they see this comment and this can get them back again. ive been stuck on grind hard plumbing atm
Very cool! But with that much power going into that engine, I feel like you need to build more of a shield in front of you just in the scary scenario that the piston that's pointing back at your head decides to go through the head of the engine!
I vote down the road to go for a blow through carb, you could use a FMU with a vacuum/boost reference something like a 10:1 so for every pound of boost your fuel pressure goes up 10lbs, it’s a real cheat when turbo charging a car with stock ecu and no tune!
Fmu only works with fuel injected engines. If they did a blow through set up they only need fuel pressure to rise at a 1:1 ratio with boost pressure.
@@junkyardboost8372 ohh I see ofc I forgot you can’t feed fuel pressure too a carb, they just don’t want the boost emptying the bowl
@@SKOMPAS you can feed pressurized fuel to a carb, in fact you have to in a blow through setup. What you need to do is also feed that boost to all of the vents on the carb and make sure it's sealed up properly.
@@TDG2654 yes, you either need to have a carb that is rated for boost, or you can build a plenum that houses the entire carb in boost.
One MAJOR advantage to a draw-through system is that the fuel evaporating as it passes through the turbo will pull a ton of heat from the intake charge, acting as an improvised intercooler and helping to control engine temps and detonation.
You guys never disappoint me . This is so awesome
Love the build guys! Was commenting on the turbo clocking then issac said exactly what I was thinking but mentioned the turbo is not adjustable that way, bummer but it will be fine!😊
For the intake tube being squished on idle, wouldn't it be the right idea to have the carburetor sit in place of that tube, like what Robot Cantina experienced in one of his Street Legal Gokart build episodes? He had the same issue happening, but with throttle bodies
He was using efi ....
It is the same issue except that car is fuel injected.
That will not work here.
Also, Jimbo goes on long rides.
This thing only runs a few minutes at a time.
Ah, shit I came here to say this 😂
@@jimbagle.3939 It can work with the carb after the turbo, but then the carb needs to be sealed. Think the overflow needs to be plugged and fuel system pressurized.
@@thefunniestfarm4731 another way to do it is to build a sealed enclosure around the carb so the float bowl vent also sees boost pressure, this was done years ago on turbo kits made by gale banks engineering before fuel injection became economically feasable.
I basically haven’t seen this show since y’all built the dragster. I’m loving the idea of this turbo. Back in 86 I had a Mustang SVO pushing 18 psi. It definitely was making more power than a GT back then. Anyway, I can’t wait for you fools to hit the road with this bad boy!
I love how they are always so safety conscious to say “cover” when welding. But in this one when he said it and the other two just kept right on working looking right towards it I laughed my ass off. Y’all are the living embodiment of car guys 😂
My bad, one did pull his cap down briefly before looking directly back towards it which honestly just makes it better lol
Keep up the good experimental work. Love it ….3
not sure if anyone talked about this already but it seams as though you should regulate the oil return with an orifice or regulator to fill the turbo and keep the pressure up.
With that fuel delivery/carb there's a chance of drenching the driver with fuel really fast if it's not done right. Run a separate oil tank for the turbo, it's simpler, and safer for both the engine and turbo..
To bad ya couldn't 2 step it and somehow transbreak for it but I'm just glad ya got it running down track again and a Lil holly dominator system would be the balls and never forget the programmable ECM .bit I would definitely say a small parachute will be in order o r and a gfewood pair of break but great video and stay safe
Well poop guys, I've been begging you guys for a while now to take the supermower around the grand prix while not even realizing that it was the same engine as the drag rail! New idea suggestion: get a used rider, swap pulleys, get a lap time, then spice up the engine, steering/suspension, etc and get competing lap times!
Being a drag setup guys, draw through carb on Methanol get rid of the coolant fan on the flywheel, that will free up some power too
You know it's gonna be fast when the engine wants more than you can give it lol
It's just collapsing because the tube isn't rated for vacuum. Doesn't matter what size turbo, at idle it'll always be at vacuum.
@@octane613 yeah, ngl watching this was kind of frustrating
the problem with running a draw through system the oil seal on the compressor side is not designed to have a vacuum on it and can cause it to pull oil from the turbo when the throttle is shut, blow through always makes more power as well.
Your videos never disappoint!
Also, that flap is the wastegate. It's there to control turbo speed, which controls boost. The Smart car probably has a boost controller on it which limits the pressure to the canister.
Keep in mind guys.....you must load the engine to figure out what your true boost is.....you cant depend on revving the engine in neutral
The collapsing intake tube is because theres high vacuum idle and its not a solid tube. The spring inside the rubber hose is a perfect idea without risking multiple leaks on a welded pipe. Keep it up boys.
I would go with a larger or longer charge pipe. It needs more volume, this will help with idle. It is a very common misconception that long turbo piping increases turbo lag. This is not true, it has been tested over and over. If the turbo piping was some crazy length(20ft for a setup like this) then yes it might make a difference but for yalls purposes, turbo lag will not be an issue.
More piping or big diameter just makes more volume for the turbo to fill up....not gonna do anything for them in this application. If anything they need to ditch the air filter and just throw a velocity stack on it.
For a blow through set up yes a airbox to blow into the carb would help with idle but this is draw through set up it will be fine they just need to hard like that charge pipe and have short joiners not one big floppy hose
@@douglasbaxter3346 you said floppy hose 🤣🤣🤣
Thank you! I want to turbo my LT500R Quadracer and wasn't sure if the pull-through method worked. Awesome content!
That dragster is actually lighter than the typical 55 HP motorcycle that is vastly faster! Suspecting a further gearing/belting problem...
Use Oldsmobile Turbo Rocket fluid as was used stock on 1962 Jetfires:
ua-cam.com/video/Jzw5W1rRMog/v-deo.html
They're gonna be running methanol so no reason to add the "turbo rocket fuel" since that's all it was. (50:50 water meth)
@@kasuraga - Mixture works and cheaper than pure methanol...
@@BuzzLOLOL not if that's what your entire fuel supply is. Mixture only works if you're using it on TOP of another fuel like gasoline. If you're running pure methanol, 50:50 water/meth would be worse.
Oldsmobile Turbo Rocket Fluid hasn't been available for 55+ years....
As someone already mentioned, it's just water and methanol.
@@kasuraga - Of course about 1% Turbo Fluid was added to gasoline... pure methanol gets expensive...
this totally seems like something i would do
If you drill a tiny hole in that wastegate line it will work like pinching it off. Just drill more holes if you need more boost. Start small. And yeah you need a solid intake pipe .
A thing I saw working very good with the pull trough setup is running the carb at WOT and having a normal butterfly throttle after the turbo. As far as I know that will eliminate the collapsing of the tube also. Great video as always!
I used to not like the drag rail just because I'm not a fan of drag racing, but this thing just looks and sounds so cool, great work dudes 👌
Love seeing you using your plasma table in the gorgeous new shop. I've been watching for years since the days of you using old kitchen tables in borrowed garages lol. Keep up the great work!
Be sure to do some plug checks to see if it's rich or lean and to check for detonation. Typically you want to go one or two steps colder on the plugs too. Patiently waiting for the next drag day video!
Also
Blow through: 1) better throttle response as the throttle is closer to the combustion chamber, 2) latent heat of vaporisation means that the intake charge gets cooled without the need of an intercooler as the fuel mist cools the intage charge, 3) better per-cylinder distribution of fuel mix.
Draw through: the opposite of that^, not-as-good throttle response, your intake temps are still high and after going through the impeller the fuel mixture is messed up (normal boundry layer air effects are reduced).
So it can work in the sense that allot of "temporary fixes" but that's it.
You guys are doing great! I would like to recommend that you properly gap your piston’s rings now that you’re adding forced induction. In order from top to bottom, 1st ring: bore x 0.0060, 2nd ring: bore x 0.0050, 3rd ring: 0.015. Ensure that your rings are squared in the bore when checking the gap. This can be done use the piston with one ring on it. Make sure that the gap doesn’t have V shape, it should be perfectly straight. Good luck, I can wait to see it in the track!
I always forget how much I love the drag rail until I see another video on the drag rail!
I just wanna say thank you for listening to your audience I personally have been waiting for you guys to go full send with the drag rail
Holy shit watched ur videos years ago ! some how lost you guys but now i finally got recommended this video, SUBBING !!!!
On a blow thru setup you ad boost to the carby bowl for fuel pressure. Just weld the waistgate shut you dont need it for that application
Correct me if i'm wrong. The reason why throttle response isn't changing, is because you haven't trim piston for bigger turbo so the engine compression remain the same. However, when boost kicks, it adds more compression so engine would heat more (supposedly). I would personally interested on turbocharging carburetors engine cuz it's hard as hell to get the jetting done. What i can think of, is getting a power jet carburetors for that
Get a wideband air fuel ratio guage. You can go real lean real quick with a turbo and melt the engine. And build a relatively large intake plenum to help smooth out the turbo pulse from the v-twin. this thing should be a riot once the kinks are worked out
Langmuir changed my life. Love how easy it makes fabrication
You guys have come so far from when I first started watching.
That things is wild. This is my favorite build you guys have done.. I remember when you guys first built it.
Great, also would be cool to install a cone shaped tube on intake as an 'inertia supercharger' to help push more air on speed
I love Ike's smile when you got it running. Such complete joy and excitement. Try flexible exhaust pipe for the intake pipe, it won't collapse. You need to see if you can adjust launch rpm, if needed
Oh, and now it begins. Turbo fever.
😏
If you get that turbo to deliver enough boost... you're gonna be making a lot more boosted builds, I just know it.
I'm looking forward to seeing it rip down the track. And....I'm going with Charles, it definitely needs a bigger turbo. 😁
"We neutraled our 4L60" 😂
Nice to see that it's a GM...
Be safe and have fun guys!
Greetings from Northern Sweden! 🇸🇪
A trick I used on an old turbo car I had was a little valve installed T'd into the vacuum line to the waste gate so I could basically have an adjustable vacuum leak to atmosphere so I could adjust my boost.
Now these are the type of vids where you watch the whole thing and absolutely don't care how long it is. Awesome
Try not to slam the throttle closed on this setup unless you want to suck oil right through the intake side of the turbo. It creates huge vacuum spikes between the carb and intake spool. It's a good way to destroy seals.
The exhaust cut out is vallen the wastegate. It caps te max amount of boost. With a manual or electronic boost controller you can adjust how much boost pressure it will run. You can also manually change the springrate
Well... for pull-through you stage your turbo on the line before launch. That's definitely the way to go.
When you need to make a manifold for something like that you can put the turbo on a scanner and scan it into the pc, import the scan into your cad program and trace it. It’ll save you so much time measuring and makes it really easy to get right.
If it lags the volume of the piping isnt the problem, unless it so small its restrictive. The turbo can fill those pipes 50 times over in 1 second. Lag is when there is not enough exhaust flow to get the turbo spinning. You have to rev it higher, or get a more restrictive exhaust housing to create more exhaust pressure to spin the turbo up sooner. Thats glossing over but true in general.
I love the fact that you huys turbocharged the rail but I gonna miss that custom header because it sounded AMAZING
Use aluminum tubing for the boost piping with boost couplers for the turns to prevent the hose from collapsing and get an A/F gauge so you can make sure you don't lean it out too much.
In a blow through you can put the carb in an airtight box. The SA publication 'the Carter carburetor' has a pic of a 4bbl install on a V8 and it's a 2 piece box with a series of over center latches like OEM air cleaners have holding the 2 halves together IIRC. You're probably going to lose a bit of boost pressure up the throttle cable - it's only a small leak.
The bottom part of the box is an integrated base gasket. Doing it like this has a lot of advantages as the carb is still load sensing in the traditional sense by pressure differential of float bowl vs Venturi vacuum as it is when it was NA. The ratios remain the same because the whole carb is pressurized.
You have to use solid floats (but the float[s] may be solid anyhow) they can't be hollow plastic or brass because they collapse. Apart from jetting and a stiffer throttle return spring you don't need to change much else.
Disadvantages? - less charge cooling. The way you have it now you get good charge cooling. In fact suck through supercharging was not an insignificant discovery in the first part of the 20th Century.
If you get 15psi you should nearly double your power.
you are setting up for a exhaust pulse back feed on the piping from the head to the turbo. what you want to do is cut it down and put a buffer box to the turbo so the turbo gets even pressure. the exhaust pulse is going to jump from side to side and pulse the turbo.
Go get'em fellas! I can't wait to see what y'all lay down at the drag strip. Thanks for sharing guys!
Just Love that oil guage dangling by it's hose so it sprouts a leak and catches on fire
I agree I think to fix that hose collapsing you need a stiffer maybe even a bigger diameter hose. I think it's just the turbo causing it to collapse and if you put a bigger turbo on there it would just get worse
A big "Aye Up" from Wigan, North West England, Great Britain.
I love you guys.
Bless Heath Robinson for he was an inventive chap.
Great Vlog peeps.
I had a 1981 KZT 1000 with the ATP 1134 CC TURBO KIT. The kit came with a 4 into 1 exhaust header that had the adjustable waste gate between header and turbo (RAJAY) IT HAD A MODIFIED Zenith carb attached via two studs and nuts to the air intake of the turbo.
the turbo mounted by hose to a intake manifold that replaced the OEM carbs. there was a water reservoir that supplied water to the carb intake when boosting. the water inhibits pre detonation at extreme boost pressure. the carb had a hole drilled into the main jet about 1/16" in size and located inside the float bowl. when the turbo spooled up the fuel would be drawn through that 1/16 inch hole bypassing the high speed tuning needle and minimized turbo lag when above 4K RPM, the engine would surge 6K RPM indicating it was trying to boost at that surge (6K) no turbo lag. I you drill a 1/32 " hole in main jet extreme turbo lag through the RPM range. no mod on main jet = turbo lag only no boost. the system above is draw though timing advance 36 BTDC
A TURBO VIDEO FOR MY BIRTHDAY! YEA! WHAT A GIFT.
Clock the turbo by changing the header flange angle
Man...idk how many small engine turbo builds I've seen where EFI is avoided due to cost. I mean my hats off to anyone with a successful channel, and you guys are among the ranks of many... It's just that for any automotive turbo build, doing boost without EFI is a rarity, so everyone's used to seeing power gain medians based on the presences of EFI, while in the small engine/air cooled arena, no one's able to show the gains had by EFI, rather it's with an Ecrons kit, or something semi-universal like a Speeduino used.
Get a wideband on it to keep a eye on the airfuel ratio, and you can put a vacuum T or 2 on the line going to that internal wastegate to up the boost
Thank you guys so much for sticking with the 670. I wanna see it hooked to a real transmission somehow. I think the CVT is too finicky
A little tip for making custom dxfs for 2.5D cnc cutting in Fusion360. Take a picture of the surface right next to a ruler or scale, then import it into Fusion as a canvas and scale up the image to match to scale of your working plane. Then you can easily trace the surface and edges.
Usually when turbocharger you may want to gap the rings. It burns hotter and the rings expand a lot more.
The lever is call a manual waste gate, it allows a certain amount of exhaust to spin the turbo when that amount is approached it opens and slows the turbo, you can adjust boost by tightening or loosening the rod or you can buy a boost controller
The sound this engine makes is awesome! So excited for the next turbo rail episode!
Listen to a cross plane v8 then "standard American sound" they are basically four of these things put together.
Y’all might need an intermediary oil tank that ups the overall oil volume in the system. Something between the turbo return to engine is where I suggest. Just to make sure there’s plenty of oil in that bottom end.
Also i agree with another comment on an AFR gauge....would be a worthy investment considering the fuel change also and would help tune for max power