We Turbocharged our Harbor Freight 670cc Dragster
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- We installed a Smart Car turbocharger on our mini dragster! In our quest to make our Harbor Freight 670cc v twin powered drag rail fast, we're installing a turbocharger! Stock, these lawn mower 670cc V twins make 22 horsepower. Ours is modified with an aggressive camshaft, larger carburetor, heads, and more. It produces around 55 horsepower. After we finish tuning the turbo with methanol fuel, we hope to achieve 80 or more horsepower!
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This install was shockingly simple! Now we just need our methanol and a few supporting mods and we'll be off to the dyno for a tune!
I just posted about how a tiny nitrous shot before the impeller can cool down and spool up, should try it.
And I dig all your builds
I remember when it was on the mower that was something I wanted to do
@@spyder7758 I use nitrous shot (18hp jet) into the compressor to spool my Miata, works really good, drops the intake air temps as bunch too.
you should put a lot bigger turbo on that
set the turbo up in pull through config and then to compensate for the extra lag... add NOS injection after the turbo
Love the mods, I would recommend adding support braces from the block/heads to the turbo and carb assy as all the vibration will prob crack welds and or break the housings of various components
I’d also invest in a air to fuel ratio gauge (afr) it is Extremely important with a turbo set up
Yes this should be too comment, afr gauges are not only for efi tuning
There is no point for afr gauge because it sucks the needed fuel still from the carb and it dont go lean if carb is tuned correctly
@@khrprod 🤦♂️ the afr gauge would be TO MAKE SURE that the carb is tuned correctly
@@khrprod afr is a tuning tool used to see how rich or lean it’s running tho
@@khrprod you can still run a carb setup too lean or rich. An AFR gauge is literally for monitoring the ratio so you can see in real time how well tuned the carb is.
I believe Ike was wearing his " IM GONNA GO REALLY FAST" face.
And Mr C really shined in this episode..
John also wore a "oh oh" face
Now, this episode feels like old school C&C!! The rail is one of my faves! You guys rock!😎✌️🤙💪☺️
It's just like the old days except they are now using plasma tables in a huge new shop instead of their parents kitchen tables and borrowed garages lol
@@mikedrop4421 I can't hate on what John and crew have built, but man, I do miss a little of the charm of the O.G. Rat Rod Wagon, the turbo drift trike, and the offroading through the neighborhood culvert. Those were the days!
Yeah, I love this one too!
@@mikedrop4421 !0%__#%%)_1
Guys I'm excited about this one! The rail is my favorite build. Can't wait to see this thing realize it's potential.
Even though it's a small engine/turbo don't forget the proper sized restrictor for the oil feed into the turbo. Will blow the seals out of the little guy in no time.
Journal bearing turbos should not have a restrictor. You can’t “blow the seals” out of a turbo as the seals are actually steel and similar to a piston ring. If oil is being pushed past the seals either the bearings are shot, drain is too restrictive or from excessive crank case pressures due to poor crankcase venting.
Very very important to restrict. Bleed to much off the engine wont get enough flow.. i know a guy that didnt have restrictor and kept burning out cam bearing from lack of flow
@@junkyardboost8372 you can push oil past the seal with too much pressure, that creates a lean mix in the intake creating a possible overrun, or goes out the exhaust side where it can ignite and overrun the engine/turbo. Either scenario leads to things getting hot, running out of oil, and failing.
Looks like everybody’s a little bit right, I think the feeding line restriction helps keep your engine alive, but the biggest problem is people hear of restricted oil flow typically is the drain back getting coked up
@@junkyardboost8372 q
Please
Draw through setups can work, especially on small engines. the lever that you see on the turbo is your waste gate actuator rod. smart cars probably only run a couple pounds of boost so the waste gate opens early, due to a 4-5 psi spring in the waste gate actuator. That or the engine exhaust is just using brute force and pushing open the waste gate due to the lake or waste gate spring pressure, use a manual boost controller in line with the waste gate hose and you’ll be able to control it. If the waste gate keeps opening early then you might need to look into an external waste gate or another turbo with a higher psi spring in the waste gate actuator. The small amount of smoke is being caused by the vacuum in the compressor housing, the vacuum is pulling the oil past the seals because the seals were designed to seal under pressure, not vacuum, to solve this you’ll need to find a way to install carbon seals into the current turbo, or find a turbo that you can install carbon seals into. Like ikr said the hose is collapsing because it’s under vacuum, a spring in the hose can work, or you’ll have to switch to a solid pipe. Address those things, turn up the boost, tune the carb and it’ll run great. Like I said a draw through setup can work good!
There is no spring in internal waste gates.only on externals
❓🤔 I'm no expert when it comes to turbocharging(unless I lie about it. Lol). But your list of ideas sounds logical to me. The only one I have a concern with is the concept of a "manual wastegate lever". I've never driven a micro-dragster, but I wonder if a driver would have the ability to effectively activate a manual wastegate lever in a timely and consistent fashion, while in the heat of a race?
If there was any significant inconsistency in a driver's ability to activate the wastegate at just the right boost levels, I'd assume that may have a negative effect if the driver was bracket racing, where e.t. consistency is paramount. (❓)
@@HighlanderNorth1 I’m sorry I didn’t mean to describe a manual boost controller like it was a driver operated lever that opens and closes a waste gate, it’s much more simple than that. A manual boost controller is basically just an air bleed valve or restricter, it connects in line with the pressurized intake and the waste gate actuator. Basically just let’s less pressurized air to make it to the waste gate actuator so the actuator opens at a higher overall boost pressure. It’s called a manual controller cause it’s adjusted manually via a screw or knob on the controller, vs a traditional boost controller that is usually controlled by an ecu or in some extreme circumstances can be used in conjunction with co2. A manual controller is just more simple and makes more sense to use in this application
@@Tilted-Garage
Ok, thanks. It didn't seem logical otherwise. It would be kinda weird for a driver to have to manually work a lever to release excess boost pressure. He'd have to drive the car while watching a boost gauge to detect excess boost pressure. If there was no boost gauge, then it would be even weirder.... He'd have to "manually estimate" excess boost pressure in order to determine when to pull the manual wastegate lever!
The setup I described would be a real head-scratcher for other engine builders and racers at the local track! But the thing you just described makes more sense.
This is one project I’ve been waiting to come back, builds are amazing to which few can accomplish.
Love you guys. So happy to see you revisit older projects like the ones that built this channel. You have learned so much, so it is awesome to see what you would fix on your own builds. Keep up the great work!
Use hard pipe for the intake. Replace that rubber with aluminum or try flexible pvc. They use it for pools and water fountains.
It's expensive but easier than welding aluminum.
Pvc doesn't hold up to fuel or heat at all. Silicone handles the heat but not fuel or vacuum. A wire reinforced fuel filler hose would be the best easy option
@@Mrshotshell fair. I should have thought about the fuel, as that is what makes PVC glue work.
The flexible would be better than regular PVC. But since this is a pull-through setup. You are right.
@@jimbagle.3939 I was about to say “ew” at the pull through, but finding a boost ready small engine fuel metering system to blow through isn’t going to be easy
Or use sch80 pvc you can shape it anyway you want with a hand torch
I agree just a piece of aluminum pipe with 2 couplers at each end would work great
the "exhaust pressure relief dump" is called a wastegate and u should be able to get different springs for it instead of pinching the line, some people also add t's into the wastegate reference line which is a little better then pinching it off, u just vent the t to atmosphere and it will give u a few more lbs of boost
Or weld the waste gate shut. 😂 Naw they might have to buy a new waste gate actuator and fab it on there to get the right spring pressure, ebay turbos are hit and miss with aftermarket parts
Can't change springs in those....but you can undo the bracket and put washers under it essentially shimming it making the spring stiffer.
@@gaboonviper85 Or use an manual boost controller. Aka a controlled boost leak in the wastegate line
A manual boost controller would be best, so they could bleed the boost pressure so the wastegate will stay closed longer
@@Mrshotshell that would be ideal for sure.
You guys and your projects keep getting awesome and amazing every day, and this video did it a hundred-fold! John, Ike, Charles, keep it up! The Harbor Freight 670 Dragster is one of my favorite projects, and it's gotten more awesome with the turbo. Can't wait to see it go down the track!
completely agree
I love how they are always so safety conscious to say “cover” when welding. But in this one when he said it and the other two just kept right on working looking right towards it I laughed my ass off. Y’all are the living embodiment of car guys 😂
My bad, one did pull his cap down briefly before looking directly back towards it which honestly just makes it better lol
Keep up the good experimental work. Love it ….3
Vote for Turbo! And a tiny nitrous shot just before the impeller can have stunning results! Cools down, spools up! Try it!
👍🤙
100% Correct
Do it!!! Yee-haw😲
I feel like they should do a couple more forced induction builds and get it nailed down before going to nitrous. That said, I would definitely not be sad if they jumped right to nitrous!
Must be a Mullet fan.
Issac cuddling, rocking and holding the turbo like a baby, even with his finger in the intake so hilarious at 3:25!!!
This is gonna be epic going down the track! You guys did a great job.
I had no idea you were working on this build again. I'm laid up with a back injury, and just spend the last 2 days going down the rabbit hole of this entire build, just because of the 670, and I wanted to know what it could do, and lo and behold, I finally get caught up and I see the vid of it running the track again last night, then TODAY I'm treated to the next chapter!!! I can't express how much I love watching you guys work, and the inspiration I get to tackle my own projects. You guys are entertaining to watch, very educational, and I'm glad that you guys are able to do this for your job, because that is the dream, right? If you enjoy what you do, you'll never work a day in your life!
OH, but for the new people that haven't gone down the rabbit hole yet, please update the Rail Playlist, because you have several vids after the build that are part of the "legacy" of this car, and there's not really a "sort by date" button I could find to follow the saga in order. I got it mostly figured out, but yeah, add the vids to the playlist in order please :)
"A turbo is never a blind spot!" Should be your next t-shirt.
Dude I love the fact that you guys put so much content into each episode, keep it up you guys are the dream team!
Try a larger intake plenum so the engine draws from a larger pool. idle might get better as the cost of slightly longer time to build boost. Though it might be steadier once pressurized.
Definitely needs more manifold volume
They can build a boost capacitor, in a sense it’s like a 2 strokes expansion exhaust but on the intake. Basically it buffers the lag out some by banking some pressure up
@@dylanzrim3635 Yup, single/twin cylinder engine's exhaust pulse is a lot rougher than something with more cylinders. Your only getting 1 or 2 pulses per engine revolution rather than 4 or 8 like a car engine. It leads to the turbo kind of pulsing, which is why their boost gauge was jumping around so much. A "boost capacitor" will help even out the pulsation
Very unique build. This is just something I thought of while watching this video and hearing you guys talk about high horsepower. For safety, you guys might consider running a steel cable around the rear head incase you have an overboost situation or something and rip the thing apart. People do that on the big boosted Cummins engines in case of block failure, and with this being a stock block pushing out more power than it was designed for, it'd be cheap insurance so you don't have a head flopping into your lap down the drag strip. Love the build series, fellas.
Love the content! Hoping my health situation improves because I have 7 various engines ranging from 1.5 to 10 hP to clean up and build and 2 minibike frames to put them on. Ones a doodle bug from the 80's the other I'm not sure but it's bigger. My daughter is always bugging me about working on them. Man... I can't wait to teach her.
That's excellent be great to see a couple of pulls down the track, looks like it might fly, all the best to yous and your loved ones
You guys never disappoint me . This is so awesome
Holy shit watched ur videos years ago ! some how lost you guys but now i finally got recommended this video, SUBBING !!!!
A micro squirt efi would set it off. To have timing tables, and control of afr should be able to push it into triple digits safely.
Yep. I've suggested they go standalone on every one of their turbo builds. Really not much more in cost to do it right
@@swandonovan they did with the turbo drift trike years ago
it was quite comedic hearing yall work your way through figuring out what a wastegate does, it dumps exhaust past the turbo to regulate the boost pressure.
Hey guys, have a bit of experience here and may be able to help, happy to chat further.
For your oil return, spooly bois love little to no resistance for the drain line. Just make sure that vent hose is nice and clear or consider tapping a fitting into the block somewhere.
Pinching the line to the wastegate can get you in a nasty overboost scenario under load. Turbo can blow up quickly as can your engine.
A cheap solution for your wastegate issue would be a bleed “t”, any half decent 90 degree valve will do - I’ve even seen plumbing or gas fittings used in the past!
Next up you’ll need to be aware of your afr under load considering the right ratios for your chosen fuel. Running very rich might be the best option here, keep your temps down.
Finally you might want to gap down your plugs a bit.
Very very cool to see you guys stepping into and learning about the turbo word. Never clicked like on a video so fast!! Cannot wait to see it rip!
this comment needs to be put at the top asap. i was the same with clicking asap when i seen the turbo haha
@@RejectedOutcast I hope they see it, would be a shame to see the project grind to a halt.
@@neoxela00 the builds of late have been a touch boring but i really want this to work for them so fingers crossed for our sake and theirs they see this comment and this can get them back again. ive been stuck on grind hard plumbing atm
Aww man I forgot about when he flipped the mower ! Made me laugh all over again. You guys are crazy
You know it's gonna be fast when the engine wants more than you can give it lol
It's just collapsing because the tube isn't rated for vacuum. Doesn't matter what size turbo, at idle it'll always be at vacuum.
@@octane613 yeah, ngl watching this was kind of frustrating
In my opinion i think that it's better if you put the carb after the turbo, so you have a better nebulozation on the gas, but it eorks well also like this!! Great men!
A carb creates latent heat evaporation and acts as a "intercooler" and drastically reduces intake air temps. None of the guys who use "blow through" boost with a carb use intercoolers so you'll be good there. Your carb on the draw through will be more of a restriction vs a blow through but as you said, you don't need anything to up the fuel pressure like you do with a blow through. If your clutch has enough "slip" to get the RPM's up you should be OK but it will be more laggy than a blow through. You will need to rejet the carb in any of the variants or it's going to run really lean.
Can't they just, nvm bad idea lol
Playing the beginning of the video in a loop with Ike saying “Shutt’r down!” Is seriously the funniest thing😂
You could use the mailbox as a plenum if its airtight under boost 😂, you need a plenum that has more cc than the engine to get good results anyways, otherwise you get invisible (on gauge) boost drops after the intake valve opens since there is not much volume of compressed air between the turbo and engine so the boost drops as the volume of air gets pushed into the cylinder so you might end up with about half the boost the gauge shows in your cylinder on lower rpm you would even be able to see the boost gauge needle vibrating but it gest less visible on higher rpm, but you guys probably know that and the mailbox could stay and still make it look cool 😂.
edit.
The up pipe from the turbo is in the perfect spot to use the mailbox as a plenum 😂, you got to do it now it would fit so good and a plenum is really important for a happy turbo engine, you could even put a big intercooler in between to also act like a plenum and give you more power with the cooler air.
I have yet to see the video with the lawnmower crash. Now I know what I'm gonna go searching for after this video😁
Another issue you might have with a draw-through setup is the manifold vacuum pulling oil past the seals in the turbo. If the exhaust gets smokey, that's probably why.
Simple fix for that might be running a bare throttle body after the turbo that's synced up with the carb so its equally restricted on both sides of the turbo during partial throttle and idle
"Somethin came in the mail today" "DEEZ TURBOS" lmao solid reference.
Very cool! But with that much power going into that engine, I feel like you need to build more of a shield in front of you just in the scary scenario that the piston that's pointing back at your head decides to go through the head of the engine!
Thank you! I want to turbo my LT500R Quadracer and wasn't sure if the pull-through method worked. Awesome content!
Your videos never disappoint!
I always forget how much I love the drag rail until I see another video on the drag rail!
For the intake tube being squished on idle, wouldn't it be the right idea to have the carburetor sit in place of that tube, like what Robot Cantina experienced in one of his Street Legal Gokart build episodes? He had the same issue happening, but with throttle bodies
He was using efi ....
It is the same issue except that car is fuel injected.
That will not work here.
Also, Jimbo goes on long rides.
This thing only runs a few minutes at a time.
Ah, shit I came here to say this 😂
@@jimbagle.3939 It can work with the carb after the turbo, but then the carb needs to be sealed. Think the overflow needs to be plugged and fuel system pressurized.
@@thefunniestfarm4731 another way to do it is to build a sealed enclosure around the carb so the float bowl vent also sees boost pressure, this was done years ago on turbo kits made by gale banks engineering before fuel injection became economically feasable.
Love seeing you using your plasma table in the gorgeous new shop. I've been watching for years since the days of you using old kitchen tables in borrowed garages lol. Keep up the great work!
Well poop guys, I've been begging you guys for a while now to take the supermower around the grand prix while not even realizing that it was the same engine as the drag rail! New idea suggestion: get a used rider, swap pulleys, get a lap time, then spice up the engine, steering/suspension, etc and get competing lap times!
I basically haven’t seen this show since y’all built the dragster. I’m loving the idea of this turbo. Back in 86 I had a Mustang SVO pushing 18 psi. It definitely was making more power than a GT back then. Anyway, I can’t wait for you fools to hit the road with this bad boy!
I vote down the road to go for a blow through carb, you could use a FMU with a vacuum/boost reference something like a 10:1 so for every pound of boost your fuel pressure goes up 10lbs, it’s a real cheat when turbo charging a car with stock ecu and no tune!
Fmu only works with fuel injected engines. If they did a blow through set up they only need fuel pressure to rise at a 1:1 ratio with boost pressure.
@@junkyardboost8372 ohh I see ofc I forgot you can’t feed fuel pressure too a carb, they just don’t want the boost emptying the bowl
@@SKOMPAS you can feed pressurized fuel to a carb, in fact you have to in a blow through setup. What you need to do is also feed that boost to all of the vents on the carb and make sure it's sealed up properly.
@@TDG2654 yes, you either need to have a carb that is rated for boost, or you can build a plenum that houses the entire carb in boost.
Love the build guys! Was commenting on the turbo clocking then issac said exactly what I was thinking but mentioned the turbo is not adjustable that way, bummer but it will be fine!😊
With that fuel delivery/carb there's a chance of drenching the driver with fuel really fast if it's not done right. Run a separate oil tank for the turbo, it's simpler, and safer for both the engine and turbo..
I used to not like the drag rail just because I'm not a fan of drag racing, but this thing just looks and sounds so cool, great work dudes 👌
Keep in mind guys.....you must load the engine to figure out what your true boost is.....you cant depend on revving the engine in neutral
A thing I saw working very good with the pull trough setup is running the carb at WOT and having a normal butterfly throttle after the turbo. As far as I know that will eliminate the collapsing of the tube also. Great video as always!
I would go with a larger or longer charge pipe. It needs more volume, this will help with idle. It is a very common misconception that long turbo piping increases turbo lag. This is not true, it has been tested over and over. If the turbo piping was some crazy length(20ft for a setup like this) then yes it might make a difference but for yalls purposes, turbo lag will not be an issue.
More piping or big diameter just makes more volume for the turbo to fill up....not gonna do anything for them in this application. If anything they need to ditch the air filter and just throw a velocity stack on it.
For a blow through set up yes a airbox to blow into the carb would help with idle but this is draw through set up it will be fine they just need to hard like that charge pipe and have short joiners not one big floppy hose
@@douglasbaxter3346 you said floppy hose 🤣🤣🤣
Go get'em fellas! I can't wait to see what y'all lay down at the drag strip. Thanks for sharing guys!
That dragster is actually lighter than the typical 55 HP motorcycle that is vastly faster! Suspecting a further gearing/belting problem...
Use Oldsmobile Turbo Rocket fluid as was used stock on 1962 Jetfires:
ua-cam.com/video/Jzw5W1rRMog/v-deo.html
They're gonna be running methanol so no reason to add the "turbo rocket fuel" since that's all it was. (50:50 water meth)
@@kasuraga - Mixture works and cheaper than pure methanol...
@@BuzzLOLOL not if that's what your entire fuel supply is. Mixture only works if you're using it on TOP of another fuel like gasoline. If you're running pure methanol, 50:50 water/meth would be worse.
Oldsmobile Turbo Rocket Fluid hasn't been available for 55+ years....
As someone already mentioned, it's just water and methanol.
@@kasuraga - Of course about 1% Turbo Fluid was added to gasoline... pure methanol gets expensive...
Langmuir changed my life. Love how easy it makes fabrication
You guys have come so far from when I first started watching.
The funniest parts about these videos sometimes is how Ike reacts to Charles’ one liners lol.
I just wanna say thank you for listening to your audience I personally have been waiting for you guys to go full send with the drag rail
That things is wild. This is my favorite build you guys have done.. I remember when you guys first built it.
A big "Aye Up" from Wigan, North West England, Great Britain.
I love you guys.
Bless Heath Robinson for he was an inventive chap.
Great Vlog peeps.
@CarsandCameras the pipe going from the turbo outlet to the engine intake ,replace it with a metal tube ,a carb or a throttle on a fuel injection when idle is going to create negative pressure in the intake manifold, in this case ,the black soft pipe
Correct me if i'm wrong. The reason why throttle response isn't changing, is because you haven't trim piston for bigger turbo so the engine compression remain the same. However, when boost kicks, it adds more compression so engine would heat more (supposedly). I would personally interested on turbocharging carburetors engine cuz it's hard as hell to get the jetting done. What i can think of, is getting a power jet carburetors for that
Ha, love the 4L60 joke you made when the thing broke. I still have original 4L60-E in my 05' Trailblazer. 17 years strong and it hasn't blown up.
I'm just starting the video and I'm already happy. Turbo Turbo Turbo ! LOL
One MAJOR advantage to a draw-through system is that the fuel evaporating as it passes through the turbo will pull a ton of heat from the intake charge, acting as an improvised intercooler and helping to control engine temps and detonation.
I love Ike's smile when you got it running. Such complete joy and excitement. Try flexible exhaust pipe for the intake pipe, it won't collapse. You need to see if you can adjust launch rpm, if needed
You guys are doing great! I would like to recommend that you properly gap your piston’s rings now that you’re adding forced induction. In order from top to bottom, 1st ring: bore x 0.0060, 2nd ring: bore x 0.0050, 3rd ring: 0.015. Ensure that your rings are squared in the bore when checking the gap. This can be done use the piston with one ring on it. Make sure that the gap doesn’t have V shape, it should be perfectly straight. Good luck, I can wait to see it in the track!
Oh, and now it begins. Turbo fever.
😏
If you get that turbo to deliver enough boost... you're gonna be making a lot more boosted builds, I just know it.
I'm looking forward to seeing it rip down the track. And....I'm going with Charles, it definitely needs a bigger turbo. 😁
"We neutraled our 4L60" 😂
Nice to see that it's a GM...
Be safe and have fun guys!
Greetings from Northern Sweden! 🇸🇪
That is an awesome job guys. Cant wait to see this go down the strip
To stop blow through carbs leaking you build a pressure box around them so the seals have boost pressure on both sides. And a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to stop the boost pushing fuel back
not sure if anyone talked about this already but it seams as though you should regulate the oil return with an orifice or regulator to fill the turbo and keep the pressure up.
The sound this engine makes is awesome! So excited for the next turbo rail episode!
Listen to a cross plane v8 then "standard American sound" they are basically four of these things put together.
I like that little rail job. Boy what it could do with a big screaming eagle off of a Harley Davidson. Fun video watching you boys. I'm smiling.
I love the fact that you huys turbocharged the rail but I gonna miss that custom header because it sounded AMAZING
"Its just like shoving a needle in a vein!" Hey i have a past too Ike and that just gave me goosebumps. God im glad i got through that hell.
Just Love that oil guage dangling by it's hose so it sprouts a leak and catches on fire
The collapsing intake tube is because theres high vacuum idle and its not a solid tube. The spring inside the rubber hose is a perfect idea without risking multiple leaks on a welded pipe. Keep it up boys.
Cant wait to see it on the strip good luck guys and have fun
Now these are the type of vids where you watch the whole thing and absolutely don't care how long it is. Awesome
A trick I used on an old turbo car I had was a little valve installed T'd into the vacuum line to the waste gate so I could basically have an adjustable vacuum leak to atmosphere so I could adjust my boost.
Get it on, Guys.
Thanks from NOR-CAL.
that's some good thinking on the little hose hook up yell keep up the good work
the problem with running a draw through system the oil seal on the compressor side is not designed to have a vacuum on it and can cause it to pull oil from the turbo when the throttle is shut, blow through always makes more power as well.
Being a drag setup guys, draw through carb on Methanol get rid of the coolant fan on the flywheel, that will free up some power too
You should make a Charles action figure toy, with a few iconic quotes when you push a button lol
@Charles, When you are doing something by eye, It's called using the Eyecrometer. LOL Or that's what Paul from Fab Rats calls it. LOL
A TURBO VIDEO FOR MY BIRTHDAY! YEA! WHAT A GIFT.
You guys are absolutely crazy!! I love it!!
Can't wait, can't wait, dang it Bobby I can't wait no more! Super excited on this one. The dragrail has always been one of my favorites! Got a fright when that sprocket's key came out. Ike, please be careful!!! You guys just keep going, I'm always thinking what are you guys gonna do next, and it's always good content!
I love it when someone is talking and then someone else starts talking over them.
Another awesome video guys 🙌. Look out here comes the 8s. This Old Man enjoying in the ManCave on 70 inch TV. Love you guys. 🛵🧔💝💝💝
Be sure to do some plug checks to see if it's rich or lean and to check for detonation. Typically you want to go one or two steps colder on the plugs too. Patiently waiting for the next drag day video!
Ikes face when he's sitting in it after the turbo was
Mounted... that's a shit eatin grin if I've ever seen one and a look of "oh boy this is gonna be fun"
Well... for pull-through you stage your turbo on the line before launch. That's definitely the way to go.
To bad ya couldn't 2 step it and somehow transbreak for it but I'm just glad ya got it running down track again and a Lil holly dominator system would be the balls and never forget the programmable ECM .bit I would definitely say a small parachute will be in order o r and a gfewood pair of break but great video and stay safe
Also had an 80 turbo trans am that thing was freaking AWESOME closed waste gate re jetted carb opened air intake up killed the knock sensor tweeked the prom 😆 we had a blast with it 😁👍
this totally seems like something i would do
Great, also would be cool to install a cone shaped tube on intake as an 'inertia supercharger' to help push more air on speed
Mann, I like the way Ike was looking after it broke.Like yeah we got something here fellas.