We're trying to set this thing up for success folks! With the increased power, reduced weight (coming soon), and proper drag slicks (also coming soon), this thing is gonna FLY!
ditch the chain drive cause your losing quite a bit of power there. instead look for a motorcycle transmission like one off a Goldwing. mount the engine longitudinal and that will solve most of your problems getting the power down. sooner or later your gonna make well over 100 to 120 horsepower. so a transmission is a must. dont say i didnt warn you if you end up getting bad results
I've been rewatching all the dragster episodes on your playlist so why don't Jason come back and ever make an appearance with this STP blue Rich Petty t-shirt have an excellent day guys
Guys, I'm 62 , grew up riding dirt bikes, go carts, mini bikes, the list went on and on over the years! Still traveling cross country on My Harley, with friends. I love you guys!!!! I look forward to every episode!!! I have binged watch past episodes. Be careful! Can't wait to see what's next. I pray God watches over y'all! Keep up the great job!
I can relate to what you said, I've did the same but I'm 74 but now I have to Ride a trike. I've a fan of cars and cameras from the beginning. It ' s like re living my past !
Once you decided to go turbo and now methanol opening up the engine for at the least an inspection was warranted going the extra steps is wise. Looking forward to more progress.
I nearly had a heart attack when the dragster was damaged at Busco Beach, and I was there watching the accident go down. Dread, and helplessness at the same time.
Its gonna fail i guarantee should have used a 200+ hp hybusa with turbo cranking 400 500 hp with that frame i can get about a 8 second drag rail... its gonna run hot its gonna break ethanol will eat all seals burn 🔥 pistons remember I said this before you even test it.. not enough hp its gonna be a 16 second or worse
I am loving this channel more and more over the years as it has grown. I have to say, Charles added charm, humor and personality to the channel since he joined and I love watching content with him involved with the team projects. One of the few channels that I watch the video as soon as it shows up in my new subscription videos.
Definitely have to say you guys are killing it. About half way through the video and had to comment. We all need to give Charles credit for his diligence. Way to go man. When you start pushing a motor to its extreme you need to be extra diligent. As always cars and cameras the best go-cart and small engine channel on UA-cam
You can run methanol really rich! Especially with boost. Unlike gas, you really don't lose any power with a rich mixture. Helps with cooling your charge too. Also those carbs run a bit lean in general when you are trying to push that much fuel through them. Fuel flow on the needle will be a way more too. Be warned that methanol is pretty gnarly on carbs! I would drain the carb after every run and keep an eye on aluminum/brass parts for corrosion. Also can foul up your oil. More consistent oil changes are a must.
Glad to see the extra steps in this build. Will pay great dividends. Back in the day when using methanol on racing karts. We always ran a flush through the engine at the end of the night. Using gas to clean the methanol out. Letting it set with methanol in it caused a lot of gumming. Just a thought. That was always a slobbering mess. Great having Charles involved more. Fine young man. Nice to seeing him become more comfortable. Can’t wait to here this beast run again. Great work. Remember, it’ll be fine.
14:45 That dragster has some GOOD wheel bearing. That or your new shop is already haunted. It's going to be insane to see this thing go down the strip now. I rember when you guys first started building it it's going to be cool to see what it does now.
Glad to see so much attention to detail on this build also I wanna say great job with the instructions and explanation of why things are getting done the way they are cant wait to see it make a pass.
With methanol, or are going to have to do a lot of oil changes, especially with the larger ring gap. Also be ready for the exhaust fumes when burning methanol; it’ll make your eyes water.
It's almost required to run a top end lube additive to help prevent washing down the bores. Side bonus is you can get all kinds of scented formulas like cherry and rootbeer.
I love the dragster build. I think adding an air to water intercooler would be a worthwhile power booster. You could make one in your shop custom for this application and it would help keep the intake charge very cool for higher boost levels. Combine that with the cooling effect of the methanol and this thing should really get after it!
My late father & I turboed a brand new series 1, 4 door Honda Accord well over 30 years ago there maybe something I say that maybe of use. We dropped the compression ratio to I think 8.7 to 1 on 95 pump gas, like you we were suck through but we used a SU carburetor, we got a load of different needles & with the use of a gas analyzer found some that the engine ran lean on when hot then used a drill press & emery tape & wet & dry to remove material from the needles in different parts of the needle to richen up the engine right through the rev range testing all the time this took months. we also added water & alcohols injection to cool the incoming charge as we developed this car. Use studs instead of bolts to clamp down your head as all the tension is on the nut & not on your engine block. In the old days they used Boffer rings between the head & block the grove in the head is a alternative cheaper but not quite as effective. Get the distance between the turbo & your head as short as possible, look at a header & re design your exhaust just remember that every 90 degree bend creates a pressure drop so go up in pipe size on the bends then drop back down in size on the straight bits & yes I know it will look extra strange LOL. Fall when you stop racing CLEAN OUT ALL YOUR FUEL SYSTEM INCLUDING THE CARBURETOR AS IT WILL TURN TO JELLO OVER WINTER & IS A RIGHT SHIT TO CLEAN OUT IF YOU DON'T you are warned !!!!!!!! you don't want to lose a race because of " BAD " house keeping. You have to realize we did all of this before turbos were the norm there were no books or UA-cam just seat of the pants & trial & lots of errors. The most important thing is HAVE FUN Rodney Duncan from New Zealand
Episodes like this make me realize how much I appreciate and how entertaining Ike really is. Also, if you're building an engine, NEVER EVER!!! Rotate the crank until the rod caps are torqued to spec. I really hope the C&C crew listens to their fans and get a fuel injection system for this engine. They are not $2000 like John said in a previous episode. Theres actually decent options for way less than 1000. Ive even seen them on sale for less than $500 for a tunable box with injectors and wiring included. I got the computer in my race car for way less than $2000. I just wanna see this engine set up actually perform, and this carb set up will never work to full potential. Good way to ruin the engine. Lots of places would even sponsor these guys an ecu........ oh well.
I have to second that, fuel injection might seem like overkill at first, but you've already seen some (minor) issues with the standard carburetor setup. Hey, I wouldn't even bring it up, but fuel injection has gotten to be pretty commonplace on a lot of cars today, and even NASCAR runs fuel injection on everything on the track.
Yes, fuel injection and a small intercooler would be the next step for a more reliable setup. They will probably run into some issues with the carburetor that the engine will lean out in certain spots and be too rich in others depending on engine load and boost.
@@marcelpursche5339 exactly on the lean and rich issue, thats the issue I ran into years ago on these small engines with boost. They don't even need an intercooler on this application because they plan on running methanol. Thats whats frustrating. They gapped the rings, did their homework for boost using methanol, but now their guna run it on grandpas old house slipper...... ggggrrrrrrrrr.
I noticed when it's about halfway when he's putting the motor back together in the background, the front wheel of the dragster was moving. You have very good bearings in that thing because it just kept going and going. Have no problems with the front wheels slowing you down on that thing for sure. Good job guys!
Unscheduled rapid disassembly I like it! Never heard that before good one Charles and dude you have been a great asset to the channel just being you, a cool dude with a good heart! Oh yeah John and Ike are cool too. Lol
Unscheduled rapid disassembly is a fancy way of saying grenading the engine...I like it. Because those piston rings aren't pinned, the honing in the bore causes them to rotate so putting each gap a different way is moot because the gaps line up many times during an engines running.
Another great video guys 👍. Charles your explanation of everything really awesome 💗. This Old Man from Washington NC enjoying in the ManCave. Isaac enjoyed talking to you yesterday. Love you guys. 🛵🧔💝💝💝
I’m going to have to go back and watch the original build of this engine. Need to build one just so I can listen to it. Like listening to your favorite album. Let it play over and over for hours!
You guys are having a blast, and so are we watching ! Only recommendation I have is to not use anything in contact with alcohol/methanol other than the yellow plumbers tape for the threads. . You can purchase it at any of the carb shops online that deal with ally or meth engines. The white will leak over time .
Alcohol used in a turbo on an air cooled engine. You are really into another league now. Turbos love heat and air cooled engines have plenty of it. You will be surprised I am waiting for you next videos and hope you all the success.
@8:49 Yepp I always do a loser ring gaps on forced induction builds, nitrous, methanol, ethanol etc. Except I was always told by senior techs that typically the oil control rings were to be left alone and to only open the gap on the upper two (where applicable) compression rings unless you wanted to be changing oil after every few runs but I never tried so IDK lol!
With rings it more so depends on how much boost your gonna be running.keep in mind your gonna be losing some compression with gapping the rings and will end up with a little more crank pressure.
Methanol is 100% more fuel than gasoline, e85 is 30 to 40% more fuel than gasoline, just so you fellas know... keep up the awesome content been a sub for years and have watched you guys grow, love the builds
Cool video, can't wait to see how fast it goes! By the way, if you continue to have leaks on the side cover, clean them off and try anaerobic sealer instead. It's made for metal to metal surfaces. The surfaces have to be flat and smooth for best results. Loctite makes a good one. Good luck with the build.
FYI piston ring gap orientation is a myth due to soon as the engine start the rings start rotating around the piston in the bore so there bound to cross many many times thru out its life
In a race engine the ring can actually seize in the bore and pop the top of the piston off. Also make sure the ring is square in the bore before measuring
I had an old guy tell me once, "Everyone at the track can tell when you didn't gap your rings enough, but they can't tell when you have gapped them too much." you'll just have little bit more blow by but shouldn't lose a whole lot of power.
I hope you guys make another video soon and not a week later I'm really enjoying watching you guys build this drag rail I watched you guys build it from scratch just getting anxious to see that thing going down the raceway again
A friendly heads up, I run that exact carb on a bone stock Kawasaki 400. I think you're gonna need some drill bits to get sufficient flow especially for methanol
Looking great boys! I know everyone wants to tell you how to do things, I’m not that dude, but I would suggest a front mount oil cooler and a little bigger if possible. It’s the only thing saving that engine’s bacon. Mmmmmm bacon
Hey I like that y’all are using a wix oil filter! Valvoline just came out with their synthetic racing oil and I think y’all should also definitely use that! 👍🏻
Just remember to change oil more regularly like 6 passes check it to see if it smell of methanol and do not leave methanol in carby so make shore it's all out before the end of each drag meet
Defo need to source a hard pipe for the intake. Plugs probably super rich from the hose collapsing under vacuum. Should ideally sort that before messing with the jets
@@davidlatoche8751 didn't see them do anything with it , last video out it was collapsing and it's exactly the same pipe now. Cut the ends and use some alloy or steel tube , it'll only go softer as it gets hotter
This things gonna be wicked once its done guys... awesome to see yall installing some bigger turbos on things and to think this motor started its life on a mower got wrecked had the head repaired cars an cameras style and is still ripping as hard if not harder than the first time it was built
I love my little 3/8 snap on pistol I got the ratchets too the long neck and the regular I use em for gigantic roots blowers on old school switch engines (locomotives)
Looking good, fellas! My only little gripes here are: The rings usually have a beveled side, and it's important to note which way they face. Also...was curious why the side cover gasket was not replaced....I don't know about that particular engine, but usually side cover gaskets assist with proper crankshaft endplay. However....I'm sure "It'll be fine." Looking forward to seeing how much better it runs with the turbo on the special sauce! My merch from y'all showed up today....it was a great end to a lackluster Monday for me :D
If that engine used a gasket for the closure plate then you need to have a real gasket on there. The gasket helps set the crank end play. Your crank may not have the proper end play now and you could have some real problems. I was the western Canadian kohler service guy for over 10 years. I have seen the outcome of tight end play.
15:43 that stuff is great. It's the one sure fire way to prevent honda bseries engines from leaking oil between the head and block under the vtec solenoid area. No idea why, but every bseries leaks there unless you put a light coat of copper gasket spray on the head gasket.
You guys need three times the amount of cfms for that carburetor and huge Jets and a lot of feel pressure run methanol. I went from a 750 cfm carburetor on my race car engine to a 1200 cfm. Love to see it work make sure you guys flush out the engine every time you run it. 👍🏽
That locating ring gaps 90 degrees out from each other, is a wives tale, rings rotate while engine is running, else you would wear a groove in your cylinder wall where there is the gap not wearing the wall.,
What you did mot mention charles: some pistonrings have marks which side is up. When the hextangle is part of it its a bolt. When you need sepparate nuts(studs)
I remember when Isaac put those metal copper wires into the heads I saw the videos when they first came out and I'm rewatching them on the playlist again for the drag rail and before it had a mailbox for a hood scoop yeah they cut the mailbox down but they didn't change it overall ratio that's why I still look like a mailbox
Nitro is self oxidizing, meaning it doesn't need additional oxygen to ignite. You can run even richer than with straight methanol. Also, Im not sure if it matters on lower concentration mixes like 50/50 but pro teams that run nitro actually start the engine on gasoline and then switch on the nitro. And they "blow down" the fuel system to get the nitro out before attempting a restart.
With boosted engines the boost cause lot more pressure in the crank case and on boosted car engines it will push oil out and they have to run a puke tank to catch the oil so that is something to keep in mind when racing because the track don`t like when you oil down the track
It was a good thing that you happened to notice the oil leak. because it likely would have gotten worse. it's a good thing that the 670 has a oil pump. otherwise it would have made installing a Turbo rather difficult. a higher lift longer duration camshaft would have been a good addition. to allow that turbo shove as much air/fuel mixture into the combustion chambers as possible. and you ultimately don't want to use a turbocharger on an ultra high compression engine. it would be interesting to see that 670 sprayed. you would get the most bang for buck. it's too bad you can't put EFI on that 670. it would have to be multi port not throttle body injection. the new Briggs and Stratton Vanguard V twins are fuel injected. although I'm not sure if they are multi port or throttle body injected. a stock one would be a perfect candidate for NOS. if I had an unlimited budget I would like to try that set up on a drag kart.
Always be careful about the Orings on the Side covers that are there to keep in the oil pressure. Whenever you are inside these engines weather it's a Honda, or clone or Briggs Vanguard or basically any of these V twins horizontal or vertical shaft engines. The oil pumps are in the side covers and or sumps and in order to pass pressure to your block where it goes onto your camshaft and crankshaft/rods the oil is passing through Orings and with time and heat, they get hardened and they are prone to leaking. The problem solving is adding a additional solid sleeve to your pass through points to protect your orings from blowing out at high RPMs or just installing new set of Viton Orings which are superior for heat and oil over conventional rubber ones are! 🤔 the gaskets on the Briggs are stupid money anymore and people cut corners on these gaskets, which is usually a big mistake. The set your side lash of your cam and crankshaft and by adding sealers to your gasket surface, in theory your opening up your end play on both the cam and crank! Which is something you would like to avoid. Just a BTW for ya'all. May want to get the correct gasket thicknesses and dial in the end play if you want this engine to hold together any length of time?
i always just used stp, or regular lucas oil additive as assembly lube. it's sticky, and i was gonna add it any way. for what you're gonna do with this, a teardown and inspection was a good idea, if not an absolute must. a sponsored top fuel dragster team may do that between every race to inspect for excessive wear and premature component failure in order to insure against "rapid unplanned disassembly" as charles so eloquently described it, on the track. that'll hurt a lot worse than getting yer panties inna wad over having to do all this extra work, especially if large, jagged chunks of hot metal wind up rapidly travelling through the same space as that currently occupied by your person because your engine ker-sploded, believe you me.
Also I know you wanna keep it cool . Get a couple electric turbos off eBay and run them over the heads you can mount them any ware and use pvc to build a little cooling shroud
We're trying to set this thing up for success folks! With the increased power, reduced weight (coming soon), and proper drag slicks (also coming soon), this thing is gonna FLY!
Brilliant!
Where’s the LAMB SAUCE
You should add a jet engine.
ditch the chain drive cause your losing quite a bit of power there. instead look for a motorcycle transmission like one off a Goldwing. mount the engine longitudinal and that will solve most of your problems getting the power down. sooner or later your gonna make well over 100 to 120 horsepower. so a transmission is a must. dont say i didnt warn you if you end up getting bad results
I've been rewatching all the dragster episodes on your playlist so why don't Jason come back and ever make an appearance with this STP blue Rich Petty t-shirt have an excellent day guys
Don't let Charles fool you. He knows his small engines. Nice chamge of pace guys.I enjoyed it
Guys, I'm 62 , grew up riding dirt bikes, go carts, mini bikes, the list went on and on over the years! Still traveling cross country on My Harley, with friends. I love you guys!!!! I look forward to every episode!!! I have binged watch past episodes. Be careful! Can't wait to see what's next. I pray God watches over y'all! Keep up the great job!
I hope I'm still riding when I get that age, be safe, and rock on man!
I can relate to what you said, I've did the same but I'm 74 but now I have to Ride a trike. I've a fan of cars and cameras from the beginning. It ' s like re living my past !
I’m 44!!
Charles is the best thing that ever happened to this channel.
Once you decided to go turbo and now methanol opening up the engine for at the least an inspection was warranted going the extra steps is wise. Looking forward to more progress.
ua-cam.com/video/ocu3ompKEg4/v-deo.html
I love how comfortable Charles is becoming. He has been a great addition to the team.
Yeah but if he had a channel would you sub cause I wouldn’t I like the dude but he’s not watchable for a long time really
@@harryfp1494 yeah but he knows his stuff and is a great addition to the team, that’s what makes this channel different from others
@@harryfp1494 I'd love to watch him on his own, he has good information in an understable format
The Dragster is my favorite build out of all of them. I’ve been waiting on these for a LONG TIME! THANK YOU SO MUCH BOYS
ua-cam.com/video/ocu3ompKEg4/v-deo.html
I nearly had a heart attack when the dragster was damaged at Busco Beach, and I was there watching the accident go down. Dread, and helplessness at the same time.
Its gonna fail i guarantee should have used a 200+ hp hybusa with turbo cranking 400 500 hp with that frame i can get about a 8 second drag rail... its gonna run hot its gonna break ethanol will eat all seals burn 🔥 pistons remember I said this before you even test it.. not enough hp its gonna be a 16 second or worse
The fact that you guy went though and increased ring gap just shows that you did your research, I can’t wait to see this build on the track
You can set the rings in the bore with the top of the piston so it is squared up in the bore. Just a tech tip guys. Love the videos.
Umm, he DID...
Nice to see Charles step right in when necessary. Great build and great team.
I am loving this channel more and more over the years as it has grown. I have to say, Charles added charm, humor and personality to the channel since he joined and I love watching content with him involved with the team projects. One of the few channels that I watch the video as soon as it shows up in my new subscription videos.
Me: expecting Charles to stop turning the oil pump gear soon.
Charles: "it's like the Lucas oil thing at O'Reilly" 😂
ua-cam.com/video/ocu3ompKEg4/v-deo.html
Duuuuuuuuude i remeber the lucas oil thing what I would do to see one of them again
Definitely have to say you guys are killing it. About half way through the video and had to comment. We all need to give Charles credit for his diligence. Way to go man. When you start pushing a motor to its extreme you need to be extra diligent. As always cars and cameras the best go-cart and small engine channel on UA-cam
You can run methanol really rich! Especially with boost. Unlike gas, you really don't lose any power with a rich mixture. Helps with cooling your charge too. Also those carbs run a bit lean in general when you are trying to push that much fuel through them. Fuel flow on the needle will be a way more too. Be warned that methanol is pretty gnarly on carbs! I would drain the carb after every run and keep an eye on aluminum/brass parts for corrosion. Also can foul up your oil. More consistent oil changes are a must.
So glad you’re increasing the ring gap. Being safe and meticulous is key when building engines. Learned that the hard way.
Glad to see the extra steps in this build. Will pay great dividends. Back in the day when using methanol on racing karts. We always ran a flush through the engine at the end of the night. Using gas to clean the methanol out. Letting it set with methanol in it caused a lot of gumming. Just a thought. That was always a slobbering mess. Great having Charles involved more. Fine young man. Nice to seeing him become more comfortable. Can’t wait to here this beast run again. Great work. Remember, it’ll be fine.
14:45 That dragster has some GOOD wheel bearing. That or your new shop is already haunted. It's going to be insane to see this thing go down the strip now. I rember when you guys first started building it it's going to be cool to see what it does now.
My guess the overhead fan. Caught my eye quickly with the wheel spinning without a push.
@@johninzerillo1510 ohhhhh, that naked sense too XD.
Glad to see so much attention to detail on this build also I wanna say great job with the instructions and explanation of why things are getting done the way they are cant wait to see it make a pass.
Great informative tutorial by Charles!
With methanol, or are going to have to do a lot of oil changes, especially with the larger ring gap. Also be ready for the exhaust fumes when burning methanol; it’ll make your eyes water.
Some bike drag drivers have like a compressed air fresh air thingy for their helmets now
It's almost required to run a top end lube additive to help prevent washing down the bores. Side bonus is you can get all kinds of scented formulas like cherry and rootbeer.
@@ddcraun I'll stick with the traditional "Industrial Butt Scent".
I always wondered why my eyes watered. I thought it was tears of joy. I have no sense of smell.
@@machinist5828 you've gone smell blind?
You guys are doing a great job! Love the variety of builds. You three are truly an inspiration. Keep having fun and posting awesome content
Thank you!
I love the dragster build. I think adding an air to water intercooler would be a worthwhile power booster. You could make one in your shop custom for this application and it would help keep the intake charge very cool for higher boost levels. Combine that with the cooling effect of the methanol and this thing should really get after it!
My late father & I turboed a brand new series 1, 4 door Honda Accord well over 30 years ago there maybe something I say that maybe of use.
We dropped the compression ratio to I think 8.7 to 1 on 95 pump gas, like you we were suck through but we used a SU carburetor, we got a load of different needles & with the use of a gas analyzer found some that the engine ran lean on when hot then used a drill press & emery tape & wet & dry to remove material from the needles in different parts of the needle to richen up the engine right through the rev range testing all the time this took months. we also added water & alcohols injection to cool the incoming charge as we developed this car.
Use studs instead of bolts to clamp down your head as all the tension is on the nut & not on your engine block.
In the old days they used Boffer rings between the head & block the grove in the head is a alternative cheaper but not quite as effective.
Get the distance between the turbo & your head as short as possible, look at a header & re design your exhaust just remember that every 90 degree bend creates a pressure drop so go up in pipe size on the bends then drop back down in size on the straight bits & yes I know it will look extra strange LOL.
Fall when you stop racing CLEAN OUT ALL YOUR FUEL SYSTEM INCLUDING THE CARBURETOR AS IT WILL TURN TO JELLO OVER WINTER & IS A RIGHT SHIT TO CLEAN OUT IF YOU DON'T you are warned !!!!!!!! you don't want to lose a race because of " BAD " house keeping.
You have to realize we did all of this before turbos were the norm there were no books or UA-cam just seat of the pants & trial & lots of errors.
The most important thing is HAVE FUN
Rodney Duncan from New Zealand
Episodes like this make me realize how much I appreciate and how entertaining Ike really is. Also, if you're building an engine, NEVER EVER!!! Rotate the crank until the rod caps are torqued to spec. I really hope the C&C crew listens to their fans and get a fuel injection system for this engine. They are not $2000 like John said in a previous episode. Theres actually decent options for way less than 1000. Ive even seen them on sale for less than $500 for a tunable box with injectors and wiring included. I got the computer in my race car for way less than $2000. I just wanna see this engine set up actually perform, and this carb set up will never work to full potential. Good way to ruin the engine. Lots of places would even sponsor these guys an ecu........ oh well.
I have to second that, fuel injection might seem like overkill at first, but you've already seen some (minor) issues with the standard carburetor setup.
Hey, I wouldn't even bring it up, but fuel injection has gotten to be pretty commonplace on a lot of cars today, and even NASCAR runs fuel injection on everything on the track.
@@jstephenallington8431 Yeah, wasn't NASCAR (the organization for trying new tech to make it mainstream) the last to finally ditch the carbs?
Yes, fuel injection and a small intercooler would be the next step for a more reliable setup. They will probably run into some issues with the carburetor that the engine will lean out in certain spots and be too rich in others depending on engine load and boost.
@@marcelpursche5339 exactly on the lean and rich issue, thats the issue I ran into years ago on these small engines with boost. They don't even need an intercooler on this application because they plan on running methanol. Thats whats frustrating. They gapped the rings, did their homework for boost using methanol, but now their guna run it on grandpas old house slipper...... ggggrrrrrrrrr.
@@marcelpursche5339 no point in an intercooler wen you have a draw through carb.
I noticed when it's about halfway when he's putting the motor back together in the background, the front wheel of the dragster was moving. You have very good bearings in that thing because it just kept going and going. Have no problems with the front wheels slowing you down on that thing for sure. Good job guys!
I think we all want a longer video would be great
Charles is my favorite. Ya'll should just let him call the shots.
Hey I remember when you first started out doing you tube videos guys the channel is looking awesome now just gets better and better 👍
I agree on waiting to tighten RTV I randomly place o rings and still wait to tighten just helps you keep some in.
Just a thought guys.. boost generally builds more crankcase pressure.. you may need a vent to alleviate the pressure to stop the oil leaks ;)
They have crankcase vents. They will probably need a catch can.
I'm so glad Charles joined the team. Love the energy he brings to the videos.
Unscheduled rapid disassembly I like it! Never heard that before good one Charles and dude you have been a great asset to the channel just being you, a cool dude with a good heart! Oh yeah John and Ike are cool too. Lol
Work smarter not harder is what Charles was trying to say👍
I've been waiting for this for years alcohol is the way to go.
Unscheduled rapid disassembly is a fancy way of saying grenading the engine...I like it. Because those piston rings aren't pinned, the honing in the bore causes them to rotate so putting each gap a different way is moot because the gaps line up many times during an engines running.
Another great video guys 👍. Charles your explanation of everything really awesome 💗. This Old Man from Washington NC enjoying in the ManCave. Isaac enjoyed talking to you yesterday. Love you guys. 🛵🧔💝💝💝
I’m going to have to go back and watch the original build of this engine.
Need to build one just so I can listen to it.
Like listening to your favorite album.
Let it play over and over for hours!
You guys are having a blast, and so are we watching !
Only recommendation I have is to not use anything in contact with alcohol/methanol other than the yellow plumbers tape for the threads. . You can purchase it at any of the carb shops online that deal with ally or meth engines. The white will leak over time .
Alcohol used in a turbo on an air cooled engine. You are really into another league now. Turbos love heat and air cooled engines have plenty of it. You will be surprised I am waiting for you next videos and hope you all the success.
I’d definitely try a bigger carb later on. My Daytona 247 is on a 46mm
@8:49 Yepp I always do a loser ring gaps on forced induction builds, nitrous, methanol, ethanol etc. Except I was always told by senior techs that typically the oil control rings were to be left alone and to only open the gap on the upper two (where applicable) compression rings unless you wanted to be changing oil after every few runs but I never tried so IDK lol!
Don't know about the small engine, but you leave the oil ring alone on V8 engine
charles isnt the greatest racer but hes a great engine builder
Love the channel! Keep up the awesome work guys looking forward to seeing this thing!!
With rings it more so depends on how much boost your gonna be running.keep in mind your gonna be losing some compression with gapping the rings and will end up with a little more crank pressure.
Charles is awesome!
I always use a flat file to gap rings. It’s what my manuals say is the proper tool.
Methanol is 100% more fuel than gasoline, e85 is 30 to 40% more fuel than gasoline, just so you fellas know... keep up the awesome content been a sub for years and have watched you guys grow, love the builds
Glad you guys played it safe and gapped those rings. Cant wait to see the rails new time down the track.
I have always loved the dragster, so glad you all decided to work on it !
Cool video, can't wait to see how fast it goes! By the way, if you continue to have leaks on the side cover, clean them off and try anaerobic sealer instead. It's made for metal to metal surfaces. The surfaces have to be flat and smooth for best results. Loctite makes a good one. Good luck with the build.
I like the classic "spontaneous energetic disassembly" myself.
FYI piston ring gap orientation is a myth due to soon as the engine start the rings start rotating around the piston in the bore so there bound to cross many many times thru out its life
In a race engine the ring can actually seize in the bore and pop the top of the piston off. Also make sure the ring is square in the bore before measuring
I had an old guy tell me once, "Everyone at the track can tell when you didn't gap your rings enough, but they can't tell when you have gapped them too much." you'll just have little bit more blow by but shouldn't lose a whole lot of power.
I hope you guys make another video soon and not a week later I'm really enjoying watching you guys build this drag rail I watched you guys build it from scratch just getting anxious to see that thing going down the raceway again
A friendly heads up, I run that exact carb on a bone stock Kawasaki 400. I think you're gonna need some drill bits to get sufficient flow especially for methanol
To steal a line from a movie, when you pulled the side cover- Holy moly, that's like lookin' up Yasmine Bleeth's skirt!
You guys should totally install a wideband Oxygen sensor gauge to assist with tuning that beast!
He said they were installing one right at the end of the video at around 20:33
@@Greg1096 I was glad to hear this. The old ‘seat of the pants’ method of tuning is no substitute for proper data
Looking great boys! I know everyone wants to tell you how to do things, I’m not that dude, but I would suggest a front mount oil cooler and a little bigger if possible. It’s the only thing saving that engine’s bacon. Mmmmmm bacon
This thing will be flying pretty soon. Good luck
I like what you're doing I've been working on small engines since 1970 I've got a little bit of experience!
Welcome to C&C Speed Shop. The small engine specialists for fun.
Hey I like that y’all are using a wix oil filter! Valvoline just came out with their synthetic racing oil and I think y’all should also definitely use that! 👍🏻
Just remember to change oil more regularly like 6 passes check it to see if it smell of methanol and do not leave methanol in carby so make shore it's all out before the end of each drag meet
Defo need to source a hard pipe for the intake. Plugs probably super rich from the hose collapsing under vacuum. Should ideally sort that before messing with the jets
isn't the hose reinforcement they did enough to prevent that?
@@davidlatoche8751 didn't see them do anything with it , last video out it was collapsing and it's exactly the same pipe now. Cut the ends and use some alloy or steel tube , it'll only go softer as it gets hotter
Dayum, guys the shop is looking incredible!!!
Awesome content, keep up the good work!
I am eager to hear this engine running!
That metallic green paint is fantastic.
This things gonna be wicked once its done guys... awesome to see yall installing some bigger turbos on things and to think this motor started its life on a mower got wrecked had the head repaired cars an cameras style and is still ripping as hard if not harder than the first time it was built
I love my little 3/8 snap on pistol I got the ratchets too the long neck and the regular I use em for gigantic roots blowers on old school switch engines (locomotives)
Looking good, fellas! My only little gripes here are: The rings usually have a beveled side, and it's important to note which way they face. Also...was curious why the side cover gasket was not replaced....I don't know about that particular engine, but usually side cover gaskets assist with proper crankshaft endplay. However....I'm sure "It'll be fine." Looking forward to seeing how much better it runs with the turbo on the special sauce! My merch from y'all showed up today....it was a great end to a lackluster Monday for me :D
If that engine used a gasket for the closure plate then you need to have a real gasket on there. The gasket helps set the crank end play. Your crank may not have the proper end play now and you could have some real problems. I was the western Canadian kohler service guy for over 10 years. I have seen the outcome of tight end play.
15:43 that stuff is great. It's the one sure fire way to prevent honda bseries engines from leaking oil between the head and block under the vtec solenoid area. No idea why, but every bseries leaks there unless you put a light coat of copper gasket spray on the head gasket.
Charles, I'm making Cars and Cameras history-using a torque wrench for the first time! And John just giggles!!
You guys need three times the amount of cfms for that carburetor and huge Jets and a lot of feel pressure run methanol.
I went from a 750 cfm carburetor on my race car engine to a 1200 cfm. Love to see it work make sure you guys flush out the engine every time you run it. 👍🏽
That locating ring gaps 90 degrees out from each other, is a wives tale, rings rotate while engine is running, else you would wear a groove in your cylinder wall where there is the gap not wearing the wall.,
Man I love your builds. You guys are so and fun to watch, buddies enjoying what you do.
What you did mot mention charles: some pistonrings have marks which side is up.
When the hextangle is part of it its a bolt. When you need sepparate nuts(studs)
hey Charles. love you buddy.
I remember when Isaac put those metal copper wires into the heads I saw the videos when they first came out and I'm rewatching them on the playlist again for the drag rail and before it had a mailbox for a hood scoop yeah they cut the mailbox down but they didn't change it overall ratio that's why I still look like a mailbox
Dont they have to be changed when removing the head?
Nitro is self oxidizing, meaning it doesn't need additional oxygen to ignite. You can run even richer than with straight methanol. Also, Im not sure if it matters on lower concentration mixes like 50/50 but pro teams that run nitro actually start the engine on gasoline and then switch on the nitro. And they "blow down" the fuel system to get the nitro out before attempting a restart.
Can't wait to see this thing all dialed in at the track!
ua-cam.com/video/ocu3ompKEg4/v-deo.html
With boosted engines the boost cause lot more pressure in the crank case and on boosted car engines it will push oil out and they have to run a puke tank to catch the oil so that is something to keep in mind when racing because the track don`t like when you oil down the track
I was thinking that too. Theres going to be a bit more blow by while at idle or part throttle. Going to push some oil.
Has a catch can and a line into the intake to burn what it doesn't catch
It was a good thing that you happened to notice the oil leak. because it likely would have gotten worse. it's a good thing that the 670 has a oil pump. otherwise it would have made installing a Turbo rather difficult. a higher lift longer duration camshaft would have been a good addition. to allow that turbo shove as much air/fuel mixture into the combustion chambers as possible. and you ultimately don't want to use a turbocharger on an ultra high compression engine. it would be interesting to see that 670 sprayed. you would get the most bang for buck. it's too bad you can't put EFI on that 670. it would have to be multi port not throttle body injection. the new Briggs and Stratton Vanguard V twins are fuel injected. although I'm not sure if they are multi port or throttle body injected. a stock one would be a perfect candidate for NOS. if I had an unlimited budget I would like to try that set up on a drag kart.
As long as you keep the overlap down you should be ok. Turbos don't like a lot of overlap
Always be careful about the Orings on the Side covers that are there to keep in the oil pressure. Whenever you are inside these engines weather it's a Honda, or clone or Briggs Vanguard or basically any of these V twins horizontal or vertical shaft engines. The oil pumps are in the side covers and or sumps and in order to pass pressure to your block where it goes onto your camshaft and crankshaft/rods the oil is passing through Orings and with time and heat, they get hardened and they are prone to leaking. The problem solving is adding a additional solid sleeve to your pass through points to protect your orings from blowing out at high RPMs or just installing new set of Viton Orings which are superior for heat and oil over conventional rubber ones are! 🤔 the gaskets on the Briggs are stupid money anymore and people cut corners on these gaskets, which is usually a big mistake. The set your side lash of your cam and crankshaft and by adding sealers to your gasket surface, in theory your opening up your end play on both the cam and crank! Which is something you would like to avoid. Just a BTW for ya'all. May want to get the correct gasket thicknesses and dial in the end play if you want this engine to hold together any length of time?
i always just used stp, or regular lucas oil additive as assembly lube. it's sticky, and i was gonna add it any way. for what you're gonna do with this, a teardown and inspection was a good idea, if not an absolute must. a sponsored top fuel dragster team may do that between every race to inspect for excessive wear and premature component failure in order to insure against "rapid unplanned disassembly" as charles so eloquently described it, on the track. that'll hurt a lot worse than getting yer panties inna wad over having to do all this extra work, especially if large, jagged chunks of hot metal wind up rapidly travelling through the same space as that currently occupied by your person because your engine ker-sploded, believe you me.
I’m impressed you have Daniel Johns from silverchair working with you
The more performance, the less it'll be fine. This will be fun. Looking forward to the next video.
While you got the side cover off put a return for the turbo excellent idea on the piston rings
Great thing to see right after school
Also I know you wanna keep it cool . Get a couple electric turbos off eBay and run them over the heads you can mount them any ware and use pvc to build a little cooling shroud
Made a go power sports order today with yalls code.. thanks for providing knowledge fellas
To quote my favourite old-timer mechanic: "Oh, those look like diesel plugs!"
U guys have come a long ways since the last one I watch witch was in the old garage
Gotta make sure to keep my bell on I was excited for a video on this to come out
Remember when you would've taken the engine out by hand? Seen allot of progress in the last few years!!
"May the force(d) induction be with you"- Obi BOV Kanobi
Im lovin this build!
Hindsight a build sheet for every engine with all specs, waits balance, and clearance, torques would make upgrades and changes more comfortable
YOU GUYS ARE NUTS!!!! I can't wait to see what's next!!!