Always with the great videos. I just replaced the seal on my 2000 Supra Launch. The video helped a bunch. I did the replacement with the pump still on the boat and the only benefit to having the pump off the boat I found would be that getting the copper washer off would be much easier when you can flip the pump upside down to slide it off. Just had to get a bit creative though and it went smoothly.
My Johnson pump # 10-35100-1 had a Brass plate between the Impeller and the Seal that Needed to be Removed, so that I could remove the Old Seal. I didn't find any O Ring on mine.. I hope my pump dripping will stop now. Thanks for the Video.
On my pump for the Volvo-Penta 2003-turbo the shaft and bearings pull out from the gear-drive side quite easily. Once the shaft is out the seal is super easy to remove. I wish these seals would last more than a few hundred hours or at least not be so darn expensive. Oil seals this size are $5-6 and the seal for my pump is $20. I'm changing the seal every couple of years. 500 hours is only a few oil changes....
I have a 99 mastercraft with the Lt1 chevy 350.. my water pump drips nice and steady while running, what parts do I need or would it be best to replace the whole pump. Thanks
I think the function of the O-ring is to divert any water that has made it past the seal from travelling down the shaft towards the bearings on the other end. On my Johnson pump there is an air gap between the pump side and the bearings for any water to escape.and fall away. The O-ring just sits in the middle of this gap and acts as a dam for any water travelling down the shaft. There is another seal before the bearings and this particular pump is gear-driven off of the engine so the engine oil is just behind that oil seal so water getting into that part of the pump is moy no bueno.
I'm currently using Sherwood P110 crank mounted RWP and thinking about changing over to Johnson. On the Sherwood pumps, when the seal leaks it usually wipes out the bearings. Is that the same on these pumps? My brand new P110 failed after one season and about 70 hours.
Sorry, but you are risking the surface of the seal seat by forcing and hammering the lip seal with a screw driver. You can press the seal out by using an allen key. Just press gently from the bearing side of the seal. It falls out with very little force. This could even be done if the pump is mounted on the engine.
Always with the great videos.
I just replaced the seal on my 2000 Supra Launch. The video helped a bunch.
I did the replacement with the pump still on the boat and the only benefit to having the pump off the boat I found would be that getting the copper washer off would be much easier when you can flip the pump upside down to slide it off.
Just had to get a bit creative though and it went smoothly.
My pump walked off the bearing close to the crank. Can that be replaced and remedied too?
Thanks for the video….my 50 yr old Johnson Pump needs a new lip seal!
My Johnson pump # 10-35100-1 had a Brass plate between the Impeller and the Seal that Needed to be Removed, so that I could remove the Old Seal. I didn't find any O Ring on mine.. I hope my pump dripping will stop now. Thanks for the Video.
Mine seem to have this as well, however I can’t seem to get it to loosen, it almost seems to be part of the pump casing. How did you remove yours?
Thanks so much for this helpful video! Sherwood F85 raw water pump uses a very similar lip seal and I was wondering which way to orient it.
So you replace the brass washer with the O ring? My rebuild kit came with both.. the o ring was on the shaft between the washer and the bearing.
On my pump for the Volvo-Penta 2003-turbo the shaft and bearings pull out from the gear-drive side quite easily. Once the shaft is out the seal is super easy to remove. I wish these seals would last more than a few hundred hours or at least not be so darn expensive. Oil seals this size are $5-6 and the seal for my pump is $20. I'm changing the seal every couple of years. 500 hours is only a few oil changes....
Thanks for sharing, can this be done while on the boat with inboard with limited access. Boat is a Malibu with the Raptor 410 engine.
Excellent video, well explained. Thankyou for going to the effort of doing this.
Thanks
I have a 99 mastercraft with the Lt1 chevy 350.. my water pump drips nice and steady while running, what parts do I need or would it be best to replace the whole pump. Thanks
What seal did you order?
@@oceanadventures1 I called skidim and Vince got me what I needed, was at my door within 3 days
Nice vis. I wonder what the function of the O ring is, which is meant to put on the shaft before the actual oil seal
I think the function of the O-ring is to divert any water that has made it past the seal from travelling down the shaft towards the bearings on the other end.
On my Johnson pump there is an air gap between the pump side and the bearings for any water to escape.and fall away. The O-ring just sits in the middle of this gap and acts as a dam for any water travelling down the shaft. There is another seal before the bearings and this particular pump is gear-driven off of the engine so the engine oil is just behind that oil seal so water getting into that part of the pump is moy no bueno.
I'm currently using Sherwood P110 crank mounted RWP and thinking about changing over to Johnson. On the Sherwood pumps, when the seal leaks it usually wipes out the bearings. Is that the same on these pumps? My brand new P110 failed after one season and about 70 hours.
Sorry, but you are risking the surface of the seal seat by forcing and hammering the lip seal with a screw driver.
You can press the seal out by using an allen key. Just press gently from the bearing side of the seal. It falls out with very little force.
This could even be done if the pump is mounted on the engine.
I forgot: First you have to pull out the wear plate. I used a nail head to get grip under the wear plate.