Idle Screw Mod- 2021 KTM 300 TPI
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 сер 2024
- Idle screw: M5, 0.8 pitch, L=50mm
Spring: L=20mm, 0.9mm, OD=7mm, 2.946N/mm
2020 KTM TPI with RK TEK Head & GET Race Kit
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By far the most detailed and informational channel about these bikes...
Wow this is golden went for a ride yesterday on my erzberg and needed this video to fix my idle, thank you
You never disappoint, great detailed video as always.
Great Info im having a rough go with a new 21 300 xcw its terrible, but your bike sounds great! thats some serious single trail! Thanks for the Video~!
Very nice video. Ive got the GET ECU as well as the injectors on my 19 300 and was just plug and go. My 21 unfortunately isn’t. Looks like this mod will be mandatory .Thanks for sharing. Happy New Year.
I liked the"Whoo-hoo" yells when you were climbing that hill!
GREAT helpful and informative videos. Your videos helped me a lot with my 250 EXC-F and now helping me with my 300 XC-W (EXC) just like yours. THANK YOU! Could you please do a video on explaining the lighting and everything else that comes on a EXC (XC-W) that stock in Europe and other countries? Here in the US we need to add all that to make it street legal. A video with how everything is connected and which parts to buy would help us tremendously. THANK YOU AGAIN!
You have some gnarly hard enduro! Thanks for the installation instructions. Very helpful indeed. 👊😉
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful
Very helpful, thank you for putting this together!
thanks for the video just did it yesterday.
I couldn't see giving these part sites $19.00 - $24.00 USD plus shipping for a 99 cent screw and 25 cent spring so took a ride to Home Depot.💪
What size bolt and screw did you use? Would like to also save a little money.
Always great content
Good video, as I can see clearly what you are doing and talking about.
Thanx.
I’m pleased that you found the video useful.
I wonder why KTM continues making bikes with idle problems if there are simple solutions like this great video.
I just made a copy of TSP's CCPS relocation plate and my bike totally woke up on the bottom end. It has 87 hours and it has more low end torque and response than it did new.
I have a 19 and besides the GET setup, these were the same settings I found to work best with the stock ecu as well.
Did you have to mess with the TPI sensor?
@@nepicness not at all
Lesson learned when I attempted to do this idle screw mod... the wimpy little butane torches just don't cut it.
Once I switched to using the MAP-gas torch, 30s or so with the flame "broke" the loktite.
Now to get out on the trail and set the air-screw.
Before I removed the little grub-screw, I measured my gap at 4.80mm - 4.90mm.
Propane works well also.
Very nice Mark. That’s some gnarly trail there. Great riding skills..
Thanks. Yes, it's a fun area to ride with lots of variety.
Love your channel and we are on the same journey together with mine being on the 21 300 xcw. What are you thinking for suspension mods for your bike out of curiosity? I am about 20 hrs in and am currently waiting on my suspension back from Protune in OH. I went with the WP 6500 pro fork cartridges and a k tech bladder system for the shock, so pretty excited to get a ride in once up and running again:). I will definitely do the RK Tek head next, but I am a bit hesitant to jump into ECU changes or the idle screw mod. So far the bike has been flawless stock motor wise(stock suspension was fairly decent as well tbh). I ran a slavens s3 on my 16 Beta RR and it really woke the bike up (gear higher riding due to gains in the low end). I will likely be lazy and just swap to the RK head unless the bike starts giving me trouble or needs further tuning. I am not very mechanically inclined so god help me if the motor starts needing substantial tuning changes:)
Nice video! Planning to do this to my 2021 TX300i. How's your air screw setup after the mod? Mine is 2 turns out. Cheers
Thanks for the video. It is an absolute necessity for any TPI bike. On 20' and 21' models, it opens up the bike quite nicely. I wish you did it before 3rd party ECU :)
150 tpi is ready for tuning 👊
Great video , but question So I got the factory Loctited idle allen screw out , but after removing it the throttle mechanism didnt move towards the stop , it stayed at 4.57 mm the exact measurement I got before I removed the factory allen screw, Seems a little odd?
just FYI you only need to do the oil prime when replacing the pump. as the pump still has oil in when doing this mod you dont need to prime it. manual says pump replacement at 80hrs, mine did 280hrs just replaced it recently. theres a lot of variation though, some bikes have been failing at 20-50hrs. The tell tale sign is your bike will foul plug on start up. What is happening is the seal inside the pump fails and while your bike is sitting in the shed waiting for next weekend the oil seeps into the inlet and when you start your bike it sucks it all down and fouls up
Yes, absolutely prime the pump if replacing it. But I think it a very good idea to purge air from the oil hose too after completing a job like this if the hose has been removed and you can see air in it.. Good information regarding the early warning signs of a failing oil pump seal...
For the 300 tpi’s I’ve seen videos showing to set the throttle position sensor to 600mv using a multimeter. Is there any issues with going past 600mv ?
I turned my idle screw quite far in, how can i re calibrate the TPS and what happens if i don't (i ride full throttle hill climbs a lot)
Do you prefer this bike over your 2017 carbureted 2 stroke?
Hi Mark, Can that mod cause a clutch problem? or can if there will be a little bit more fuel it will go down in the crankshaft? or can that mod cause the more fuel and less oil and for that crankshaft bearing will be damaged? thanks
Hi. What is the correct turn on the air screw?
I read somewhere that it is advisable to adjust the idle screw as little as possible from the stock setting. I've messed around with mine alot now and want to baseline it, hopefully without removing the throttle body. I thought I remembered seeing a youtube vid that provided a way of resetting it by reading voltage somewhere. Would you know how I can reset it without removing the TB?
What is the factory air screw setting on a 2021 Ktm 300 xcw?
I own a 2021' EXC 250 TPI the default bypass screw is 2 and 3/4 but my bikes have a tricky pipe bang when I release the accelerator. Should I resolve it with the idle screw mods? How many rounds Do i need to set the bypass screw after the installation of idle screw ? Thank you
0:33 Gotta love getting that new Ready To Race Kato and then spending a few thousand dollars on it to make it run right 👌
Good info in the vids for owners of these things
Emissions getting in the way ov the best two enduro bikes on the market!..
@@gregstao2251
Second best.
Emissions have not got in the way of Sherco and they're great to ride.
Probably because there not selling the numbers..They’ll have too go injected one day, so they need too come up with something good...
@@gregstao2251
Sherco currently meet the requirements for Euro emission laws with the carburettor fitted, they run an ecu to control electronic power valve system and for CDI ignition maps.
They are Europe's second largest manufacturer of dirt bikes.
Yes, they certainly will have to join the others with fuel injection for the next step in Euro laws for 2024, something I'm looking forward to personally having come from EFI four strokes back to carbs on two strokes.
Sherco have had an efi development bike running for at least the last 5 years, I believe they'll be good from day one.
Hoping they don't have to go through the 4 years of getting the Ready To Race owners to test their systems for them like team Orange. 👍
Yeah because all the hard work is done for’em 🤣
Great Vid as usual 👌. Will this mod work with the stock Ecu and cylinder head ? Thinking of taking the plunge on a tpi over my 16my te300 but dont have the budget for lots of expensive upgrades .
Yes, highly recommended with stock ECU and cylinder head and will allow you to tune the airscrew for the best off-idle performance. I just uploaded a new video (2021 GasGas EC300 First Ride Impressions) which has the stock ECU and head and the idle screw mod: ua-cam.com/video/z7OG5KrQvn4/v-deo.html
Hi would this also work on a 2021 150exc cheers
Do you think the plug gets fouled when you run it richer?
Amazing instructional..as always! Do these steps apply to the 250 as well ? 2021 250xc tpi
Yes, a riding buddy has a 2020 KTM 250 TPI and was very pleased with the bottom end power improvement after doing the idle screw mod. It really has no downside as you can always go back to the stock setting if you take a note of the stock throttle body air screw setting.
@@TokyoOffroad Fantastic. Thank you for your reply.
Great video’s! Trying to find the best setting for my 2022 300XC, it was 3.5 turns out from factory. I hear conflicting reports on what it should be. Many people say .5 to 1 turn out but some say not on a 22 bike and that it should be 4 to 4.5 turns out?
Did you ever figure this out and get your bike dialed in? I have the exact same bike and just added the screw because the bike would die idling. My air screw was 3.25 stock. Any info and help would be amazing.
How far out is the factory screw ? I never took note of this when I took it out sadly?
Thank you so much for a really detailed and explained video. I'll be doing this in the next few days!! What was your idle RPM in the end after the mod?
I didn't measure idle RPM. I aim for an idle speed which is low, but steady and doesn't stall easily. I plan to do some more tweaking during future rides, but am happy now that I am able to easily make adjustments.
2021 KTM 300 TPI...is this a XC or XC-W?
If you adjust the throttle stop screw to adjust the idle and then recalibrate the the TPS as you suggest all you have achieved is give it more air and know more fuel which would be know different from adjusting the air screw like ktm suggest. You should also inform every one that when you do this mod and then take you bike Back the the ktm dealer for a map update that it fucks up the TPS setting as the TPS will be zeroed with the butterfly in the wrong position then making it a pain in the arse to recalibrate it all back up.
No, because you can add more fuel using the GET app. You can't do this with a stock ECU. Thus you have control of the fuel, air and throttle stop position and are still able to set the TPS start cal correctly.
@@TokyoOffroad
I would like to see how you adjust to give it more fuel after you recalibrate TPS with throttle stop adjusted. It still doesn’t alter the point that you inform people to adjust throttle stops with standard ecu. Then they bring there bike in for mapping updates and it fucks up the calibration of the TPS
@@j12racing77 - I'm using a GET ECU with map by Harris Performance. You can add up to 30% more fuel, or 10% less fuel using the GET app. I'm not using the stock ECU so it's not going back to the dealer for mapping updates.
@@TokyoOffroad
I’m well aware how the get works with the fuelling but if you adjust the throttle stop with your adjuster you’ve basically just holding the throttle open 3-4 % open if you then recalibrate your TPS like you did your zeroing it with the butterfly open 3-4% but then cut the fuel back to start up fueling all you have is an increase in air flow through the butterfly instead of the air bypass valve which you turn in and close off so you have gained nothing. The get doesn’t allow you to adjust fueling at start up.
@@j12racing77 - But I'm not cutting fueling back, I've added fuel to the map in the idle rpm range. The TPS cal function sets the idle value, but you can still add (or take away) fuel in that cell. Customization of the fuel map cell rpm upper and lower ranges is also possible. So it is absolutely possible to tune your fueling at idle.
Some time ago you published a video where you used the ELM OBD II device with a phone app to read it on your TPI bike. I've been unable to find that video. Can you tell me which video that was? Thank you.
Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/Oyv2TtxMmbg/v-deo.html
Could you please check if this Mod is really needed? My dealer told me that 2020 models don´t need this mode. If you adjust idle with idle speed adjusting screw, the ECU find that the RPM is higher and the ECU adds more fuel. It is not lean anymore.
My bike idled fine stock. But it didn’t perform to my liking stock...
Mine came with blue lock tight, never needed to heat it to get it turning. Also I just adjusted the factory screw, never changed it for a long one, it will take you a couple of tries but once you set it, it's set for life.
PS: Bike is all stock works perfect 😉
Interesting. When I was looking at the factory set screw the thread lock did look almost blue, but it was a bit darker (purplish). With many reports of people damaging the factory screw I think it's a good idea to use some heat as it can then be removed very easily as shown in the video. Yes, you could continue to use the factory screw, but it may be prone to move, unless some fresh threadlock is applied once you've decided on a new setting. The bolt and spring I used cost less than US$2 and work well so I'm happy with this solution. I know lots of people who ride their TPIs completely stock and that's great if you enjoy it. I think a lot of this is personal preference and how you like the bike to feel...
@@TokyoOffroad I agree with you 100% both on the thread lock and on the screw. If I had seen this video before I done mine I would have done it your way for sure. To stop my screw from moving I did in fact put some lock tight back on it, and it can be a pain in the ass to put it on with out removing the throttle body, so yes I love that screw mode you done 😊
Thank's again for sharing 👍
I heated it 2 times so hot that I could barely hold it with a glove on . I won’t come out and now it’s quite stripped.
Hi Mark, great video, is there a brand to buy that screw/spring or just take the spec you listed and buy at any screw shop?
I purchased my in Japan from a supplier I use. Yes, if you purchase a screw & spring with the same/similar specs you should be fine...
@@TokyoOffroad thanks I will see what I get. Thanks for the reply! Cheers
@@WildEnduro did you find the required parts anywhere? Please share your source😝
@@michaelwolf3048 ebay. Sent you the link on PM. Costed 10 pounds from UK. Did the work tover the weekend following Tokyo Off-road tips… pretty straight forward but need to take the whole exhaust system off to reach the throttle cables.
Did you start fouling plugs after turning it in so far? My 2020 250xc tpi came 4ish turns out. Bike wouldn’t idle so I installed slavens idle screw and turned the air screw to a half turn open, then 3/4 and now 1 turn open and I’m fouling plugs...
I haven't fouled a plug so far. And none of my riding buddies on TPIs with the idles screw mod have fouled plugs either. Some possibilities: You're still running too rich (turn air screw out further); right side crank seal is bad and you're burning transmission oil; the oil injection pump is leaking while the bike is not being used (know issue on some bikes, particularly while the bike is being transported) resulting in plug fouling during start up.
OK now this is the LAZY BOY option. I didn't want to tear my brand new 2 week old 2021 Husky 300 TPI down so this is what I did. First I removed the single retaining screw and popped off the throttle cover (I did not need to remove the exhaust to do this, I just GENTLY pushed it from the OTHER SIDE on it's edge at the top with a broad bladed screw driver and it popped off). Secondly I could see the blue Locktite on the screw and I sprayed it 4 times with ordinary DISC BRAKE CLEANER, 30 minutes apart, and left it overnight. Next day all visible blue Loctite was gone, an encouraging sign, but I knew that some would still be active in the threaded section of the housing. I then removed a 2.5 Allen/hex from a folding bicycle Allen tool set which have those big loops at the end when you take them out of the set (the loop is critical for leverage, a standard Allen wrench will not work) I then fitted that to the idle screw and once in place, used a bigger Allen wrench handle through the loop in the 2.5 as a lever (any handy short lever would do just as well).Very slowly I kept pressure on it but TIGHTENING it, not UNDOING it. ( So many people go wrong trying to loosen reluctant engine setting screws, tighten them first whenever it is possible because the wrench is being pushed in, much less chance of stripping the hex).
Just as the 2.5 Allen started to twist a little under strain, it gradually turned the idle screw a fraction so I stopped and warmed the engine to full operating temp. Whilst doing that I plugged in my OB2 diagnostic unit (dirt cheap on Ebay but get the convertor plug made in England by Lonelec to connect to KTM/Husky) and via my mobile on the free OB2 App, watched the ECU rev count NOT the ENGINE rev count because that fluctuates too much on a 2 stroke, the ECU RPM count is the AVERAGE reading and THAT is the one to set your idle by if you have the choice to do so. It is is easier to get the really fine adjustment on a 2 stroke this way.
After much experimenting on my bike I found 1775 ECU RPM (easy number for you Yanks to remember! My Husky must be a Republican!) to be the optimum for my bike with the Air Bypass Screw totally SHUT. There is ZERO reason for using the air bypass screw, it is ONLY there because manufacturers cannot use any other method to adjust idle without effecting emissions. It is a total bodge because the TPS has not been moved so the ECU has not been 'informed' of a change. That is why despite raising the idle speed you get 'flame outs". My bike used to do it all the time and always in the worst situations which caused me to fall off several times on steep hill climbs etc. The Air By Pass bodge works kind of OK on cars and even to some extent most 4 strokes but the 'work around' was never intended for high performance 2 strokes which have totally different "needs" to deliver optimum power delivery characteristics. Trust me, just screw the stupid POS Air By Pass SHUT and experiment with getting a perfect setting with the idle screw which moves the TPS and 'informs' the ECU to adjust the mixture accordingly
Your bike might vary on it's perfect RPM average but now mine pulls really cleanly off the bottom (quite critical on the RPM reading I found, higher or lower RPM settings were not optimum) and is NOW great at ultra low speed manoeuvres like "figure of 8" at walking pace, but also goes like a f**cking missile when cracked open. Honestly, it is like riding a totally different bike.The first time I gave it a whiff of throttle the front wheel came up so fast in a power wheelie that I nearly fell off, I just wasn't expecting that much sudden performance increase from fiddling with an idle screw!
Lastly, remember to drill a little hole in the plastic cover before you put it back so you can adjust the Idle screw without removing it. I will get around to replacing the Idle screw with a 5 X 50 mm next time I am in a hardware store ( I am certainly not paying $35 for one! 10 cents and an old spring from a Beretta shotgun more like!) but for now I haven't bothered as I don't want to disturb my perfect setting and there seems to be enough Loctite still on the screw to prevent it unscrewing in service. i.e. the idle adjustment is quite stiff in both directions which is perfect. So guys, that is a lazy-arsed Brits way of achieving exactly the same result with 10 per cent of the effort. No heat, no rebooting the oil pump or anything.
And if you do get it WRONG and strip the hex head you are no worse off because you were going to strip the entire bloody bike down anyway, in which case you can release the screw with a pair or pliers once you have melted the Loctite. Worth trying! Less hassle, more riding time!
Great video and explanation of setting this up!
I would like to get your thoughts on KTM idle/air screw position at varying elevations.
I ride at about 8500’, what elevation do you typically ride at and do you think that affects how much the KTM screw should be turned out?
I would also like to know this.
I ride at 7800-10000 ft and I have added this screw.
I find now that my 2020 300 tpi will leak nasty oil/fuel out of the Right side engine cover near the
exhaust port but
ONLY when I adjust the air/idle screw to a richer setting= If I set mine to 4 full turns out and anywhere richer it creates a leaking mess when I ride.
I set it at just past 4:25 turns out and it runs great, less spooge.
When it is set to be more rich I get the tailpipe spooge as well. Now I run it at 4:25 turns out from he fully closed position.
Runs great.
tpi bikes dont need to be adjusted for elevation, the computer does it
Once you have the setting (air screw and idle screw) dialed in to your liking you shouldn't need to change it as the bike will compensate to temp and elevation changes.
@@doublehelix109 that is correct regarding normal operation of the TPI system. The question is specific to the air screw adjustment described in the video.
What is being proposed in the video is that by manually adjusting the idle rpm by keeping the throttle/butterfly open a greater amount, the air idle screw can be set in a more rich condition by turning out 1/4 turn from closed vs 2 1/2 turns or whatever would give you the best idle using the factory adjustable method which results in a leaner condition at idle and less bottom end.
I suspect that the factory idle/air screw would need to be turned out more than a 1/4 turn to compensate for altitude.
@@sig9171 The factory idle air screw should be closed with this mod which i think is mentioned in jeff slavens video. it serves no purpose as the idle is now controlled by the butterfly as it should be and the mixture is controlled by the ecu.
you do not need to remove the throttle body from the bike just use a mini torch and it will come right out no prob
👍👍👍
It’s weird that a step forward in technology comes with a step back in adjustability.
It was a forced leap at the demand of epa and alike, at a slight decrease in some areas such as reliability and down low grunt. My tpi is more than enough and has been reliable thus far.
You have a very good channel and your info given is spot on. I have a question if you don’t mind. I have a 2020 250 tpi with 40 hours on it. I started adjusting the powervalve out, bike is running fantastic but oil has started to come out the back of the exhaust. Is there a relation between powervalve adjustment and running rich, or should I turn the air screw in to make it run leaner, I know there could be a 100 different answers, but tell me your first thought that comes to mind... great channel....thanks
If the bike runs well and you like how it feels I wouldn't worry too much about spooge from the exhaust. Excessive spooge may be due to the bike running rich, engine not reaching operating temp, too much oil, or oil being used has a high flash point. Turning out the PV preload adjuster will allow the PV to start opening at a lower RPM. This may result in the bike running leaner. Turning in the throttle body air screw (clockwise) will make the bike run richer and drop the idle as the amount of air which can bypass the butterfly is reduced. If your bike is stock and you're still worried about it I recommend discussing it with your KTM dealer. One issue which can occur is that the oil pump can leak oil when the bike is not being used. This makes it hard to start, or may result in fouled plugs. It may also result in spooge from the silencer...
@@TokyoOffroad thanks for the feedback, much appreciated...
My 2020 250 tpi is doing the same
Question - You said it runs better a little rich off the bottom but after you installed the idle screw you had the air/fuel screw set one turn out (richer) then said it ran better a half turn out from there (leaner). Am I understanding the rich/lean direction of the A/F screw? Not much information out there regarding the TPI A/F screw... Thanks
The screw controls the amount of air which can bypass the butterfly. The more you open the screw the leaner it becomes. One turn out is leaner than half a turn out.
@@TokyoOffroad - Thank you. My mistake, I thought you said you added a half turn but after re-watching I see you reduced the A/F screw by half turn.
I don't really understand how I should be setting the air bypass screw. How do I know when its in the correct spot?
Turn in if it’s running too lean.
Just curious since your bike is really close setup to mine. Other than I have a 2020 250. But all the same mods. What is your fuel consumption like? Like the point the low fuel light comes on
I haven't measured the fuel consumption. For the riding I do I have no problems, especially as I usually go back to the truck at lunchtime and fill up.
@@TokyoOffroad I’m getting like 45miles out of a tank
will this setup work on a husqvarna TE 300 2018😮
Yes, assuming that your 2018 is TPI, the method is the same.
I just saw your shock it is and XC-W
EXC
When you remove the oil hose, the oil doesn’t just drain ? Or should you clog it so it doesn’t drain ?
No, you shouldn't get much oil leaking out when the oil hose is pulled off the throttle body. At a maximum only the oil in the hose between the pump and throttle body can drain out. If there is a constant flow it would mean that the oil pump is leaking (and needs replacing)...
@@TokyoOffroad Thank you for your response
Why u measured the gap if you install idle screw to modify the gap? In the end that measure will change...
The measurement is just for reference, in case you want to return it to the stock setting.
Is TPI really better than a carburetor ?? Seems to make things complicated.
That's not an easy question to answer. I still have carb bikes and love riding them. There are pros and cons for TPI (and carb bikes). Yes, the TPI system is more complicated than a carb bike. TPI bikes are able to compensate for elevation and weather changes and have oil injection (premix not required). Carb bikes are simpler (usually easier to debug if there's a problem) and can perform well if the rider has a good understanding of how the carburetor functions and can tune it.
So, how much do you spend on this Ktm to get it running like it supposed to ?
I was going to said the same. Just buy a Sherco the only thing you.need to do is change suspension springs if you are out of range.
Many people love how their TPI runs stock and don’t spend anything. A lot of this is personal preference and how you like your bike to feel...
If you run with 1/2 a turn out, the bike in decceleration (with 0% throttle ) will do lots of bangs
No, I have zero pipe bang on closed throttle. Nothing at all.
My bike did lots of bangs... got Back to the original setting and the bangs stop
@@xanoxxxxWhat are your initial settings?
1 and 3/4 out
Great video as always. But are we going to ignore how pathetic it is that KTM haven't fixed fixed this at factory...KTMs are great bikes but we pay nearly $15000 for a TPI 300 in Australia and have to fix shit straight away!
It's potentially done for emissions and not by KTMs choice?
Hello, tell me what the throttle values turned out to be with your adjustments?
Please note that I no longer have this bike so I can't provide any additional information above what was covered in the video. Regarding throttle values, I'm not sure what specific information you're looking for (TPS voltage values?), but either way I don't have the bike anymore so can't measure anything now. Sorry...
@@TokyoOffroad how to calibrate the throttle position sensor?
Hi mate ive got a te 300 2020 and have done the idle screw mod,but i cant seem to stop idle hanging.ive adjusted air screw pretty much in and out..do you have to move the air screw in milimetre movements
Did the bike have hanging idle before the mod? Hanging idle indicates that it's running lean. First check that the throttle body hose clamps are secured correctly and there are no air leaks (particularly on the reed valve side). If you also removed the reed valve while you were doing the mod (to inspect the reeds) check that the gaskets are good and sealing with no air leaks and the reed valve screws are secured and torqued to spec. If you don't have any air leaks then check where the throttle body air screw is set. The stock setting is often about 3.5 turns out from full in. Set it to 0.5 turn out from full in and see how it runs. Turning the throttle body air screw out (anti-clockwise) will increase the amount of air which can bypass the throttle body butterfly and lean out the idle mixture. Turning the throttle body air screw in (clockwise) will reduce the amount of air and richen the idle mixture making hanging idle less likely.
@@TokyoOffroad ok friend will try this and get back to you...cheers thx for reply
Hello mate ...i had my air jet at 0.5 already so i turned down tick over screw a little bit and it seemed better.i then checked my throttle play and found i never had any so adjusted appropriately and now she runs a treat...thx for your information and safe riding friend
I tried to adjust the idle on my 250 tpi 2020 as they recommended in the manual via the air mixture screw, I’ve now found the spark plug oils up after a while of idle/running and it will not restart, does anyone know how i reset this air mixture screw back to original setting? ( It is now at 6 1/2 turns out from closed)
You should have counted the turns from where you started...
@@seanmcintyre2887 I know, amateur mistake, not sure where to go from here now 🤦🏻♂️
start at about 2 out. best is to do this mod and just wind it in closed
@@52yamahar1 The problem is there is no magical setting if I were you I would fully wind the screw in and wind it out 1/4 of a turn out until the bike doesn't stall.
also note that to far out is lean and the bike will have a hanging idle
@@doublehelix109 I know this is an old thread but found it very useful. Get an OBD2 BT dongle and set RPM to 1300. Or a wire wrap one from Amazon.
How many turns did you open the air screw to the left?
As discussed in the video, I ended up at half a turn out on the airscrew
Thank you men 🙏🏻
How do you richen the fueling? Turn in the air screw?
Yes, closing the airscrew (turn clockwise) will richen the bottom end fueling. If you want to richen the fueling across the full rpm, or specific rpms, you'll need an ECU flash, aftermarket ECU, or piggyback tuner.
@@TokyoOffroad Thank you. I figured out my issue... while my bike sounded lean, it was actually the head gasket that had failed. Explained why my bike was running so hot. Less than 5 hours on the bike...
One step is missing on this video...How do you disconnect the throttle position sensor?
There is a plug connector which unclips easily
No steering stabilizer?
No, I wanted to try without. I do very little high speed riding now which is where the stabilizer is of greatest value. The bike does feel more nimble at low speed without which is nice.
What you do for living in japan ?
I'm an Electronic Engineer by profession and my day job is working for a US based company.
Where did you get the spring?
Monotaro in Japan
i got 6 blinking light code after doing this on my 22 Husqvarna tx 300 is there a fix?
6 blinks is a code which indicates a throttle position sensor issue. Check that the throttle position sensor electrical connector is fully plugged in and wiring is not damaged.
@@TokyoOffroad wiring looks good. Blinking light turns off after two cycles but returns upon restart seems to run fine.
Advice will be appreciated - I followed all the steps, but for the life of me, I could not get the screw loose. Any ideas?
More heat. I did a friend's 2019 TEE250i throttle body and it took quite a bit more heat to loosen than my one, but came out with no drama.
More heat to soften the thread locker. Don't twist too hard because if you break it you will be sorry.
@@TokyoOffroad Thank you so much, this did the trick. I took more than 2min of direct heat to get the glue to loosen up.
@@nvmcrider8475 Thank you so much for your reply. It did take more heat than I have initially anticipated (about 2min +), but it did do the trick. The nut is out!
How do you suggest getting rich spots out of the 1/4 throttle area? Bike runs and idles fine but hesitates and surges in 1st gear at half throttle. Thanks in advance!
If you've done the idle screw mod and are sure it's a rich spot then try opening airscrew on the throttle body in 1/4 turn increments and see if it helps. The idle will probably go up so you'll need to also adjust the throttle stop screw which you put in. Or if you have an aftermarket ECU you could adjust the fueling. With the GET ECU and WiFi option you can adjust the fueling (and ignition) using the smartphone app while out riding. Really handy... Or a lower cost solution is a Dobeck piggy-back fueling controller which also allows for adjustment of the fueling.
@@TokyoOffroad I'm changing the sensors today. The $1200 GET isn't really in my budget. 🤷. I haven't done the idle screw mod because it's never had an idle issue. Only the sputter and surge like it's rich in that area. CCP fittings have all been cleaned and OBD2 baro and ccps readings match "normal"
@@jswervy16 - The idle screw mod will allow you to tune the throttle body air screw and throttle stop independently. This allows you to tune for best performance off the bottom. Well worth doing…
One other thing to check is that some have reported stuttering issues when the atmospheric pressure sensor is not working correctly. I know you said it seems to work OK but it you have a spare sensor it would be worth trying to see if the stutter goes away…
@@TokyoOffroad I absolutely will replace both. I have 2 going in today and then I will have 1. Reflashed the ECU
2. Changed pipes and silencers.
3. Adjusted PV and air bypass
4. Swapped both sensors.
After all that, I'll be trying TSP's Tune. Could a wrong Z dimension cause this? I wouldn't think so but it's the only thing that wasn't precisely measured. I did it with a caliper and got it as "exact" as I could
They brought back the PV spring for 2021?
I think he bought them..
No, KTM do not recommend changing the PV spring from the stock one (yellow). Changing to the red PV spring may make your bike run lean so be careful. I richened up the fuel map when I changed to the red spring. I much prefer how my bike runs with the red PV spring (stronger power but still very linear), but I know some people don't like it, so it's really personal preference. I think it's worth testing, but just make sure your bike doesn't start running over lean.
@@TokyoOffroad oh no I was just curious. My bike runs perfectly fine the way it is. What’s your opinion on doing the idle screw mod? I don’t feel my bike needs it, but I have the screw just sitting there. I don’t want to screw up a perfectly good running bike by doing something that isn’t needed
@@Drewski423 - Yes. If your bike idles well and you like how it runs you don't need to do the idle mod...
How does the 300 compare to the 250?
I'm enjoying the 300. A little slower revving than the 250, but power is linear and strong. Works well for trail riding and is fun...
@@TokyoOffroad is the 300 a better bike for your riding style?
My 2020 Hva300TPI idled fine when it was new, about 30-40h in the idle is terrible. Stalls easily and wont idle at all with any gear in. Must try this fix.
Sounds like you have a bad crank case pressure sensor.
I have the same issue. Did you ever figure out the problem?
👍😎All that lugging and climbing I didn't even hear the fan come on.
The fan does come on, but not so much on this ride as it was only about 6 deg. C. Took a while for the bike to warm up...
1:22 scottish roots? 😉
I do actually. My great grandfather was Scottish. When I was editing the video I thought it was interesting as I don't normally pronounce it like that... LOL
@@TokyoOffroad I thought it was remarkable too 😁 What a coincidence 👍
Next thing KTM will do is probably fly by wire....these bypass screws remind me of a carburetor...lol and then the next greatest thing will be the little stepper driver that opens and closes the idle bypass
TPI....how nice...an oil pump, fuel pump wide-band O2 sensor
I bet KTM can't wait to stop selling parts too.....so the next invention can be created
Parts for:
The 1987 250 MX...forget it
The 1996 550 MXC...forget it...but wait I did buy a new water pump impeller....
1998 380 MXC....hardly anything available...
2017 300 XCW......yes parts are available...
I take care of my piles...
Now there is just a tiny NOS and eBay worn out junk for those old bikes....
I think I will do more retro parts creation.....
So they can keep on running...
Holly shit just get to it for f sakes man
That GET will destroy your Engine. The stock reed cage is shit and the screws have the potential to back out and fall into the engine. Game over..