We can call this episode; As the shop Shrinks. Good find and save. Whip out your ohm meter and check between the phases. on 220 and if it is a typical 9 lead motor you should have 456 tied together 1,7-2,8-and 3,9 as your incoming power. Should show near 0 ohms or no resistance between the phases and open more than 1.5 megohms to ground. to prove out it is not shorted to ground. When you get that sorted you will want to check your control transformer on the primary side so it is connected to accept 220 volt instead of the 440. looks like you have a 3 wire start stop so it may have a control transformer or it has full voltage coils in the starters. Scott
Keith, I'm glad to see you saved another monarch, they are my favorite. I can tell you, the clutch shaft leading into the gearbox is a pain to get to, the shaft runs in about five inches and transfers to a bevel gear setup. I repaired one a few years ago. don't mean to discourage but it's not fun. Your broken longitudinal hand wheel crank knob is a press in fit on those, they usually press out from the rear. At the left end of your apron you will see a cast aluminum tank, this is your way oil pump, inside is a piston pump driven from the saddle hand wheel, it's usually clogged. It pumps to a manifold located beneath the bridge of the cross slide, under the saddle between the bed ways, you'll want to replace all oil metering units within, source them from lube inc. they're the cheapest. Your headstock should be fine, built to drive the titanic! You'll be impressed with the build quality of the dog clutch tranny and helical gearing. Your spindle bearings are Timken tapered roller, everything else is most likely Bower, your going to love this machine and I can't wait to see the upcoming vids on it. Good luck and God Bless. Chris German
You are absolutely correct. It turns out in a later video that the oil passages from that pump are blocked and due to lack of lubrication there is excessive wear of the saddle where it rides on the ways and the apron has excessive wear to the gears and bearings.
Looks like it is in need of some serious love Keith !!! You should call your shop a rescue shop for stray lathes and other machine tools !!! Then you can ask who rescued who !!!
Keith, you make me laugh when ya say ya have the sickness. Being a retired engineer, mine is test equipment, scopes, function generators, signal generators and more. Yep, I got the sickness too in a different area! Love you videos! Can't wait to see the videos on this restoration... Thanks for doing what you do! Lloyd
Keith, you're maybe the machinist with the biggest heart on earth! Giving all these great old machines so much care and a new home :) Love watching your restoration videos, so I think your big heart makes this a win-win-win situation for you, the machines and the humble viewer! Kind regards and Merry Christmas!!
From what I gather in the lathe community monarchs are one of the Cadillacs of lathes and almost always worth bringing home, especially for the right price - besides how can ya turn your back on a orphan-? Youre gonna have one nicely equipped shop by the time youre done - shaping up nicely.
Totally agree with you about the motor, sounds like one winding is burned out (assuming the motor isn't jammed), came across that same thing many times in my career, a motor that size is often cheaper to rewind than buy another, even if they change the bearings while they have it apart. Before you first mentioned it had problems i could see the bent shaft, and knew immediately how it happened ;)
doubt its jammed as it does start but very poorly , its got a OC winding and is two phasing ex armature and stator winder/ motor repair up to 3000HP and 3Kv
lets hope it is just worn out brushes. Brushes not making good contact because of being too short will arc and blow fuse. Being it has at least 3 paint jobs could mean it has had a lot of work. Burnt winding will be a short or open short blows fuse open wouldn't motor do nothing. So my best guess is jammed bearings or worn brushes.
That thing looks like a beast, Keith. Lot of capacity and some pretty sweet features! As you said, even if you have to swap out the motor, I don't doubt you'll have that tank up and running with relatively little trouble. Yeah, you _say_ you are set for lathes but you are definitely an addict so I won't be surprised when the next one shows up. Good to see more restorations in the pipeline. Keep up the great work!
Along with being a retired Navy Molder, I'm also a retired Journeyman Electrician and have worked on many a motor. Without being able to see the motor, my guess would be that the starter winding (or starter capacitor if it has one) is the problem. If you want to check this theory, energize the motor again but this time try to move the motors' shaft by hand. Carefully! If it is the starter winding/capacitor the motor will take off if you can start movement by hand. Capacitors are inexpensive and easy to replace...starter windings, not so much but it's a good thing you have a motor shop near by. Good luck with the repairs!
I stand corrected, my mind automatically went to the split-phase motor info. I guess it's time to get out the megger and check the windings for an open circuit or a dead short.
Looks like another diamond in the rough! Lucky it followed you home and not me. My workshop is full. I always believed you can't have too many tools and there's NO cure!
I think took sharing and standardization is important in a shop. I passed quite a few very good deals on machines simply because the tooling pool i currently own was not suited fit them. Some, rightfully so, might say that's not a benefit, but, i'm always playing the long game, as such when my arrangements for my shop are complete, i will have one set of chucks, one set of tooling units, one set of mounts, etc. My inspiration came from a shop i visited many, many years ago, as a teenager (being that i'm an young adult now, ain't much difference, but i'm older) the level of efficiency those guys were able to achieve was mind blowing. And that was because they had sought standardization from the start. IMO, it also lowers costs a little bit, not by much, tooling is tooling, but it's the fact that you can buy in bulk and get some % off that counts in the long run. That's just my two cents on the matter.
Also, Keith, don't keep stuff you won't use. Like that quick change. Resell that thing, it's not worth keeping everything around, the old adage "need it when you need it" works only so well until it runs in to sand.
Nice buy Keith! I've got a 12KK Monarch and the lever/wheel layout is identical! They must have followed a similar design plan through the years. On mine, the clutch lever by the gearbox goes into a little pass-through part and the square shaft terminates right there. You should have no problems fixing that up.
Waiting to see your upcoming video where you show us how you straightened that bent shaft then rewelded it back up ;) We know you can do it! Awesome new addition to the shop Keith...
Congrats on the new machine Keith! In regard to the motor issues: inrush (startup) current can be several times the rated current of the motor. A 20 amp motor blowing a 20 amp breaker is totally possible.
amazing what happens when you have the room! I started out that way, and now cannot get to anything! As myself....you must be a master of explaining that when it all shakes out, the machines you end up keeping will essentially be free, and maybe a bit left over to offset some of the building cost!
dont forget to rewire motor starter for correct voltage as well Mr Rucker. I have 1954 monarch ck and those Monarchs are built to last. look forward to seeing her come to life!
Congrats for the new machine. As far, as i see, you only need 1 or 2 smaller ones, Hardinge, South Bend. And, of course, a watchmakers lathe, and you are done. Of course there are a few additional mills, 2 or 3 shapers, some surface grinders.....and, i guess, your wife has on top of her wishlist for christmas some guns, lol.Merry Christmas...
Hello Keith, Great to see that you got a second lathe and I am looking forward to the series of video's repairing the lathe. Seems to me that you can repair those things that are faulty. Many greetings from Roel !
Of course you need a little tabletop lathe too for making little quick jobs without having to change heavy chucks and occupying the big ones with work in the one inch range. Have you considered designating your lathes for single materials? One machine for turning aluminium, one for steel and one for brass/bronse? That would be an incentive and motivate you to get a few more lathes!
A nice addition Keith another bunch of flowers for Mrs R or is it a weekend away? I would guess you have a phase burnt out on your motor, I rewound loads of these when i was an apprentice Armature winder 50 years ago. Its easy to tell before you pull it apart get close to the vent holes and you smell it. It will have a sickly burnt bad smell no mistaking it. Get it rewound and new bearings it will last for years. I am not surprised it tripped your breaker. I have followed the Leblond so this will be another project for us to enjoy. Seasons greetings from the UK. Eric
Very cool to have another Monarch! I'm sure you will make that into a very nice machine (and I'm betting that it'll be painted nice and pretty in no time!)
A nice machine, those big Monarchs are great tools. The rod that's bent and broken should be a fairly easy fix. It isn't a rotating part but just an extension to engage/disengage the spindle isn't it? This will be a full blown mechanical as well as cosmetic restoration if I know Keith. This will be his go to lathe in the years to come.
agreed, but hes just built a new shop, so all the jobs were waiting for it, same with casting he was doing, im sure next year we get a ton of lathe, casting, repairs vids etc
That will happen soon enough. Got to get one running first and the focus has been on finishing the shop ahead of finishing the lathe. Nearly there on both accounts now!
Rucker's South Georgia Lathe Shelter, all breeds accepted! How does Mrs. Rucker feel about the plans for the second new shop building? Nine motor wires...I'd recheck the 220V wiring scheme before dragging that motor out. I'd certainly make at least one mistake in there. Hum running 440 at 220 seems plausible, but hum and ill rotation at correct voltage merits a recheck--though a failed winding might be what sidelined the lathe.
A great lathe with a fantastic lineage. Higher speeds range will certainly be nice to have. Now you just need to find a 10EE. Merry Christmas my friend.
The "different" electronic drive systems always have made me look the other way when one was available locally. Just another "thing" to learn, I suppose, but there are many threads about how long it takes to rebuild those drive systems, and $$$$$ too, if you really get into it.
If you post some photos of things like the electrical panel, the inside lid or plate on the motor that shows the winding's and how to connect them. I am sure that with a basic multimeter (an insulation tester would be handy too) we can help you diagnose some of the electrical problems :) (I am not a machinist, but I have worked in industrial electronics doing PLC / VFD / Motor Starters etc. Which is now a hobby ;) Together the power of your viewers will help you diagnose the problems.
We're going to see you on an episode of hoarders one day, you'll be climbing out of a little hole that is made because that's the only square footage you've got that isn't a lathe.
Congratulations! I had to grin a bit when you mentioned that the size of the chuck is the same as the one that goes on the big lathe. ;-) Your issues should be easy to fix - hopefully the bar controlling the clutch did not cause any internal damage.
With all that space, of course there will be more machines. Next I'm thinking a big horizontal mill, or maybe a HBM. For small parts a turret lathe would be good. Maybe even a screw machine. I would think those ought to be pretty cheap. I think you and Tom Lipton are in a race.
That is the same model as Adams right? Looks like Monarch used the same castings for the ways apron and tail but really did a do over on the headstock. I wonder if they changed the spacing on the gearing in the process? Kind of looks funny with the mix of smoothed over 40's lines with the very 60's boxy lines. Did that guy that offered the tailstock for the big Monarch not pan out?
This is a more modern lathe than the one that Adam has but I am pretty sure that the apron is more or less the same. The guy who offered the tailstock never would reply to messages.
Keith, Christmas came early at the Rucker household! One can never have too many lathes! It sounds like you may have a bad winding in the motor. If that's the case, it's a whole lot cheaper to have it rewound than replaced. Then you can keep your Baldor for a spare. BTW, you can't beat Baldor for motors! In my book, they are the best! A lot of the machines I used to work on were driven by Baldor single phase, 3 phase or DC motors. You got another lathe -- is the wife getting a new Mercedes? Have a good one! Happy Holidays (or is that holidaze?) Dave
Always interesting to see the events down your way. I wondered, is that a plastic trash bag on the window behind that lathe? Was that done because of a lighting issue for the video? I found that you can buy those "plantation" type window shades for a modest amount of money at a "big box" home improvement store (like the blue one and the orange one), and that price includes measurement, delivery and installation. Than you could open and close them as conditions dictate. Given all the other professional touches you have done in your shop, you might consider it.
before you remouve the motor open the controle box and check the contactor the problem may be coming from there long time not working the contact can be frozen open way easyer then taking a motor out you should have 2 contactor 1 forward 1 reverse interloch so both cant be on at the same time
When you go to clean up this guy, maybe you could get the services of one of those 1000w laser cleaners. Maybe they could use the exposure, a new source of customers and you could get some really clean equipment
Often a quick way to check for a burned motor winding is with your nose. Hard to miss the smell of a motor that just burned up. If it has been setting a while most of the smell may go away. A little sniffing around may give you some clue.
I know a shaft straightening expert (Keith Fenner). Maybe I could get you in touch with him. Just kidding. I know you know him very well. Those Monarchs are sweet machines. I used to work for a manufacturer in Sidney, Ohio where they were made. Several of the employees there used to work for Monarch before that plant closed. We also owned a couple Monarchs. We had a 16" Monarch in the engineering lab. The, John
If the motor was wired for 440 you can be sure that the contactor coils and heaters are also. Replacing the coils and heaters (important overload protection) would get you the right control panel function.
The comment was more for after getting the motor running. Any progress there? If not: You can do a quick check on the motor by disconnecting it from everything up to the peckerhead and checking the resistance between the feeds on the motor - you should see some small but equal resistance between each lead set: L1-L2, L1-L3 and L2-L3. A different resistance would indicate something wrong in the motor - either the wiring or in a winding. Finally, 20A is pretty darned low for a 7.5HP motor without a soft start, I'd expect that breaker to pop pretty quick. A couple months ago I had a 7.5HP compressor on a 30A line where the breaker would pop during the motor start and had to run a new 40A line.
To get rid of old paint, just soak the parts in Sodium Hydroxyde (NaOH). It's much cheaper than the commercial paint removers and it works by far better than any of these. But be aware that you can't use it on aluminum, because it also dissolves in NaOH.
That bent/broken rod is not too serious; the electrical issues can be dealt with (worst case is replacement motor; used 3-phase motors go for cheap). The only really expensive faults would be the ways (and or wear on the carriage or tailstock way surfaces). Before you put much time into this, you should put your super straight-edge on the ways and check for wear.
We can call this episode; As the shop Shrinks.
Good find and save.
Whip out your ohm meter and check between the phases. on 220 and if it is a typical 9 lead motor you should have 456 tied together 1,7-2,8-and 3,9 as your incoming power. Should show near 0 ohms or no resistance between the phases and open more than 1.5 megohms to ground. to prove out it is not shorted to ground.
When you get that sorted you will want to check your control transformer on the primary side so it is connected to accept 220 volt instead of the 440. looks like you have a 3 wire start stop so it may have a control transformer or it has full voltage coils in the starters.
Scott
Mrs Rucker must be a saint.
LOL
Agreed!
With all the mfg. moving out of the U. S., nice machines like the one Keith has can be had at a real bargain, often for scrap price.
would have already been divorced if this was me. My wife looked at me sideways when I spent $50 on a recoil starter for the 1985 snow blower...ugh
I would not trade her - shes a keeper!
Keith, I'm glad to see you saved another monarch, they are my favorite. I can tell you, the clutch shaft leading into the gearbox is a pain to get to, the shaft runs in about five inches and transfers to a bevel gear setup. I repaired one a few years ago. don't mean to discourage but it's not fun. Your broken longitudinal hand wheel crank knob is a press in fit on those, they usually press out from the rear. At the left end of your apron you will see a cast aluminum tank, this is your way oil pump, inside is a piston pump driven from the saddle hand wheel, it's usually clogged. It pumps to a manifold located beneath the bridge of the cross slide, under the saddle between the bed ways, you'll want to replace all oil metering units within, source them from lube inc. they're the cheapest. Your headstock should be fine, built to drive the titanic! You'll be impressed with the build quality of the dog clutch tranny and helical gearing. Your spindle bearings are Timken tapered roller, everything else is most likely Bower, your going to love this machine and I can't wait to see the upcoming vids on it. Good luck and God Bless.
Chris German
I have been studying the whole area and it looks like it is going to be a pain. No surprise there...
You are absolutely correct. It turns out in a later video that the oil passages from that pump are blocked and due to lack of lubrication there is excessive wear of the saddle where it rides on the ways and the apron has excessive wear to the gears and bearings.
Looks like it is in need of some serious love Keith !!!
You should call your shop a rescue shop for stray lathes and other machine tools !!!
Then you can ask who rescued who !!!
Keith, you make me laugh when ya say ya have the sickness. Being a retired engineer, mine is test equipment, scopes, function generators, signal generators and more. Yep, I got the sickness too in a different area! Love you videos! Can't wait to see the videos on this restoration... Thanks for doing what you do! Lloyd
Keith, you're maybe the machinist with the biggest heart on earth! Giving all these great old machines so much care and a new home :) Love watching your restoration videos, so I think your big heart makes this a win-win-win situation for you, the machines and the humble viewer! Kind regards and Merry Christmas!!
This came up on my feed. I've watched the restoration of this lathe and seeing it as it started out really shows how much work Keith did on it.
Diamond in the rough, Keith those issues with be no problem for you, not a bad looking lathe.
ne of the nice benefits of having a shop the size of your new one is that you have the room to make sure you are as well equipped as you want to be.
The lighting in the new shop is excellent.
I use that phrase with my wife all the time "it was a really good deal". So far, so good!
Nice find! Now all you need is time! Congratulations!
From what I gather in the lathe community monarchs are one of the Cadillacs of lathes and almost always worth bringing home, especially for the right price - besides how can ya turn your back on a orphan-? Youre gonna have one nicely equipped shop by the time youre done - shaping up nicely.
Nice! It just followed you home . . . LOL! I've really been enjoying your other lathe restoration videos. Congrats on another nice score.
Totally agree with you about the motor, sounds like one winding is burned out (assuming the motor isn't jammed), came across that same thing many times in my career, a motor that size is often cheaper to rewind than buy another, even if they change the bearings while they have it apart.
Before you first mentioned it had problems i could see the bent shaft, and knew immediately how it happened ;)
Sounds like a jam to me, but jams and burnt winding are very much similar (unless you're actually near the damned thing, where that becomes obvious).
doubt its jammed as it does start but very poorly , its got a OC winding and is two phasing
ex armature and stator winder/ motor repair up to 3000HP and 3Kv
lets hope it is just worn out brushes. Brushes not making good contact because of being too short will arc and blow fuse. Being it has at least 3 paint jobs could mean it has had a lot of work. Burnt winding will be a short or open short blows fuse open wouldn't motor do nothing. So my best guess is jammed bearings or worn brushes.
Merry Christmas, Mr. Rucker. Santa visited you early, with a huge sleigh. You must have been a very good boy all year!
That thing looks like a beast, Keith. Lot of capacity and some pretty sweet features!
As you said, even if you have to swap out the motor, I don't doubt you'll have that tank up and running with relatively little trouble.
Yeah, you _say_ you are set for lathes but you are definitely an addict so I won't be surprised when the next one shows up.
Good to see more restorations in the pipeline.
Keep up the great work!
Very nice size machine, wish I could find a deal like this. your a lucky man. look forward to seeing more of this machine.
Along with being a retired Navy Molder, I'm also a retired Journeyman Electrician and have worked on many a motor. Without being able to see the motor, my guess would be that the starter winding (or starter capacitor if it has one) is the problem. If you want to check this theory, energize the motor again but this time try to move the motors' shaft by hand. Carefully! If it is the starter winding/capacitor the motor will take off if you can start movement by hand. Capacitors are inexpensive and easy to replace...starter windings, not so much but it's a good thing you have a motor shop near by. Good luck with the repairs!
sandrammer Hey Chief, you better brush up on your three phase theory! No starter windings or caps in three phase motors.
I stand corrected, my mind automatically went to the split-phase motor info. I guess it's time to get out the megger and check the windings for an open circuit or a dead short.
And due to the time it took for the breaker to trip, I'm inclined to believe the motor has lost a phase.
I am leaning towards a lost phase. I have not had time to check it out yet though.
Dang. Another nice addition to the shop. Sweet.
Looks like another diamond in the rough! Lucky it followed you home and not me. My workshop is full. I always believed you can't have too many tools and there's NO cure!
I love Keith's formula for everyday bliss and happiness; He can never have too many Lathes, LOL
Wow Keith,! I can wait to see what you have in mind to fix this lathe.
I think took sharing and standardization is important in a shop. I passed quite a few very good deals on machines simply because the tooling pool i currently own was not suited fit them. Some, rightfully so, might say that's not a benefit, but, i'm always playing the long game, as such when my arrangements for my shop are complete, i will have one set of chucks, one set of tooling units, one set of mounts, etc.
My inspiration came from a shop i visited many, many years ago, as a teenager (being that i'm an young adult now, ain't much difference, but i'm older) the level of efficiency those guys were able to achieve was mind blowing. And that was because they had sought standardization from the start.
IMO, it also lowers costs a little bit, not by much, tooling is tooling, but it's the fact that you can buy in bulk and get some % off that counts in the long run.
That's just my two cents on the matter.
Also, Keith, don't keep stuff you won't use. Like that quick change. Resell that thing, it's not worth keeping everything around, the old adage "need it when you need it" works only so well until it runs in to sand.
Nice one Keith, all the best to you and yours.
Adam has one of those , They are great machines .. Thumbs up Keith !
Adam Booth has a model CY, not a model K
Keith, I had to watch this video again. That is just one badass lathe! Can NOT wait to see her running!! :-D
You remind me of the scene in the Matrix where Neo says "guns, we need guns" only you need lathes! Can't wait to see it all fixed up and making chips.
Nice buy Keith! I've got a 12KK Monarch and the lever/wheel layout is identical! They must have followed a similar design plan through the years. On mine, the clutch lever by the gearbox goes into a little pass-through part and the square shaft terminates right there. You should have no problems fixing that up.
Perfect addition and well deserved.
Great video. I know nothing about these machines and am fascinated by them. I'd love to have an old machine like this one day.
Waiting to see your upcoming video where you show us how you straightened that bent shaft then rewelded it back up ;) We know you can do it! Awesome new addition to the shop Keith...
Congrats on the new machine Keith! In regard to the motor issues: inrush (startup) current can be several times the rated current of the motor. A 20 amp motor blowing a 20 amp breaker is totally possible.
Oh you poor sick man! LOL! I hope they never find a cure!
All the best!
Mike
The new shop looks really nice!
Nice old Lathe. Great addition.
Can't wait for the repair video.
amazing what happens when you have the room! I started out that way, and now cannot get to anything! As myself....you must be a master of explaining that when it all shakes out, the machines you end up keeping will essentially be free, and maybe a bit left over to offset some of the building cost!
dont forget to rewire motor starter for correct voltage as well Mr Rucker. I have 1954 monarch ck and those Monarchs are built to last. look forward to seeing her come to life!
I did re-wire it for the low voltage option.
HI Keith,
Another great Video,at this rate i think you are going to need a bigger shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
best of the season to you and your fellow views
congrats on the new machine
Congrats for the new machine. As far, as i see, you only need 1 or 2 smaller ones, Hardinge, South Bend. And, of course, a watchmakers lathe, and you are done. Of course there are a few additional mills, 2 or 3 shapers, some surface grinders.....and, i guess, your wife has on top of her wishlist for christmas some guns, lol.Merry Christmas...
What can be better than treating yourself to a Lathe as an early Xmas present. Have a nice Xmas Keith.
Dinxsy it's ok to say Christmas now, haven't you heard? lol
Big John Laziness haha.
Nice video, Keith.
Since you have a nice "toy".
Wish you a lot of fun.
Can't wait to see this project get underway! Awesome, Keith! And can't wait to see the Le Blond in action.
Well, we THOUGHT you had a nice roomy new shop, but ... Anyway, congratulations for saving another beautiful machine!
I'd have let it follow me home too. I still haven't seen any real issues. Great buy.
You are a sick man, but in a good way. Looking forward to the new machine.
Congrats!
First vid of 2017: Adding on to new shop for more room. LOL!
Hello Keith,
Great to see that you got a second lathe and I am looking forward to the series of video's repairing the lathe. Seems to me that you can repair those things that are faulty.
Many greetings from Roel !
Keith's home for the aged - lathe.
I'm ready to watch you solve some more "small" issues.
Of course you need a little tabletop lathe too for making little quick jobs without having to change heavy chucks and occupying the big ones with work in the one inch range. Have you considered designating your lathes for single materials? One machine for turning aluminium, one for steel and one for brass/bronse? That would be an incentive and motivate you to get a few more lathes!
I have three lathes all different sizes and love them
Awesome machine Keith!
Go on like this and you'll need a bigger shop - again!
the Model K was Monarch's economy lathe in the 60's. It is basically a Monarch lathe design from WW2. Still a GREAT lathe,
A nice addition Keith another bunch of flowers for Mrs R or is it a weekend away?
I would guess you have a phase burnt out on your motor, I rewound loads of these when i was an apprentice Armature winder 50 years ago. Its easy to tell before you pull it apart get close to the vent holes and you smell it. It will have a sickly burnt bad smell no mistaking it. Get it rewound and new bearings it will last for years. I am not surprised it tripped your breaker.
I have followed the Leblond so this will be another project for us to enjoy.
Seasons greetings from the UK. Eric
Very cool to have another Monarch! I'm sure you will make that into a very nice machine (and I'm betting that it'll be painted nice and pretty in no time!)
Not to worry Keith, I have the same illness. I don't think it is catching but there is no known cure so just enjoy it. :)
A nice machine, those big Monarchs are great tools. The rod that's bent and broken should be a fairly easy fix. It isn't a rotating part but just an extension to engage/disengage the spindle isn't it?
This will be a full blown mechanical as well as cosmetic restoration if I know Keith. This will be his go to lathe in the years to come.
Nice lathe congratulations Keith
I would suggest talking with Keith Fenner on that rod repair. His straighten technique may be best for the straightening.
Thank goodness lathes were built to last.
It would be nice to see you using one of your lathes
agreed, but hes just built a new shop, so all the jobs were waiting for it, same with casting he was doing, im sure next year we get a ton of lathe, casting, repairs vids etc
So...look at all his vids, and choose the ones where he uses a lathe!
One of the lathes in his new shop. I'm not trying to be an ass.
That will happen soon enough. Got to get one running first and the focus has been on finishing the shop ahead of finishing the lathe. Nearly there on both accounts now!
Nice new toy to add to your collection, can't see a problem with the motor, any three phase motors that I have seem to run for ever, good luck.
Rucker's South Georgia Lathe Shelter, all breeds accepted! How does Mrs. Rucker feel about the plans for the second new shop building?
Nine motor wires...I'd recheck the 220V wiring scheme before dragging that motor out. I'd certainly make at least one mistake in there. Hum running 440 at 220 seems plausible, but hum and ill rotation at correct voltage merits a recheck--though a failed winding might be what sidelined the lathe.
A great lathe with a fantastic lineage. Higher speeds range will certainly be nice to have. Now you just need to find a 10EE.
Merry Christmas my friend.
Everybody wants a 10EE - and because hobbyist want them as well, it really drives the prices up. I would love to have on though!
The "different" electronic drive systems always have made me look the other way when one was available locally. Just another "thing" to learn, I suppose, but there are many threads about how long it takes to rebuild those drive systems, and $$$$$ too, if you really get into it.
If you post some photos of things like the electrical panel, the inside lid or plate on the motor that shows the winding's and how to connect them. I am sure that with a basic multimeter (an insulation tester would be handy too) we can help you diagnose some of the electrical problems :) (I am not a machinist, but I have worked in industrial electronics doing PLC / VFD / Motor Starters etc. Which is now a hobby ;)
Together the power of your viewers will help you diagnose the problems.
That's going to be a nice lathe.
We're going to see you on an episode of hoarders one day, you'll be climbing out of a little hole that is made because that's the only square footage you've got that isn't a lathe.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Can we vote on the tear down?
If so, I say full tear down and restoration! Love your videos!
Start with checking the winding resistances of the motor to see if all three phases are the same.
Welcome to the Monarch owners club
Love the restoration videos
Congratulations!
I had to grin a bit when you mentioned that the size of the chuck is the same as the one that goes on the big lathe. ;-)
Your issues should be easy to fix - hopefully the bar controlling the clutch did not cause any internal damage.
Paint the whole thing! good looking lathe.
your very lucky to find the lathe, here in Britain it seems like everything has been scrapped or exported
Keith you have the sickness & there is no getting around it !! O but what fun it is.
-How many lathes does one man need?
-At least one more!
Larry Potterfield
If n is equal to the number of lathes in current possession then the required number of lathes is n+1.
Nice quote, i think of it as an investment. Lathes are not built like these anymore.
There is no number that relates in this dimension! ;o)
O,,,
With all that space, of course there will be more machines. Next I'm thinking a big horizontal mill, or maybe a HBM. For small parts a turret lathe would be good. Maybe even a screw machine. I would think those ought to be pretty cheap.
I think you and Tom Lipton are in a race.
You've got the coolest name, Bill Moran the bladesmith has been a hero of mine for 25 years, I hated to see him die.
The Rucker museum of very large tools.
Heartbreaking Damage, Keith will fix er no problem !
LOL I see a shop addition in the near future.
That is the same model as Adams right? Looks like Monarch used the same castings for the ways apron and tail but really did a do over on the headstock. I wonder if they changed the spacing on the gearing in the process? Kind of looks funny with the mix of smoothed over 40's lines with the very 60's boxy lines. Did that guy that offered the tailstock for the big Monarch not pan out?
the tailstock guy just plain disappeared off the earth, no way to contact him other that youtube, didnt respond to any messages, never commented again
This is a more modern lathe than the one that Adam has but I am pretty sure that the apron is more or less the same. The guy who offered the tailstock never would reply to messages.
Adam Booth has a model CY Keith's is a model K.
Keith,
Christmas came early at the Rucker household! One can never have too many lathes! It sounds like you may have a bad winding in the motor. If that's the case, it's a whole lot cheaper to have it rewound than replaced. Then you can keep your Baldor for a spare. BTW, you can't beat Baldor for motors! In my book, they are the best! A lot of the machines I used to work on were driven by Baldor single phase, 3 phase or DC motors. You got another lathe -- is the wife getting a new Mercedes?
Have a good one! Happy Holidays (or is that holidaze?)
Dave
Always interesting to see the events down your way. I wondered, is that a plastic trash bag on the window behind that lathe? Was that done because of a lighting issue for the video?
I found that you can buy those "plantation" type window shades for a modest amount of money at a "big box" home improvement store (like the blue one and the orange one), and that price includes measurement, delivery and installation. Than you could open and close them as conditions dictate. Given all the other professional touches you have done in your shop, you might consider it.
Nice score!
"Heck, you can't have too many lathes? Right?" Hahaaa, that cracked me up.
before you remouve the motor open the controle box and check the contactor the problem may be coming from there long time not working the contact can be frozen open way easyer then taking a motor out you should have 2 contactor 1 forward 1 reverse interloch so both cant be on at the same time
Congrats!....where do you find the time...pls share that secret
wow! I want this machine!
Nice one Keith. I would have bought it home too.
When you go to clean up this guy, maybe you could get the services of one of those 1000w laser cleaners. Maybe they could use the exposure, a new source of customers and you could get some really clean equipment
Often a quick way to check for a burned motor winding is with your nose.
Hard to miss the smell of a motor that just burned up. If it has been setting a while most of the smell may go away. A little sniffing around may give you some clue.
I know a shaft straightening expert (Keith Fenner).
Maybe I could get you in touch with him.
Just kidding. I know you know him very well.
Those Monarchs are sweet machines.
I used to work for a manufacturer in Sidney, Ohio where they were made.
Several of the employees there used to work for Monarch before that plant closed.
We also owned a couple Monarchs. We had a 16" Monarch in the engineering lab.
The,
John
If the motor was wired for 440 you can be sure that the contactor coils and heaters are also. Replacing the coils and heaters (important overload protection) would get you the right control panel function.
Yes, but that does not explain why it won't start even when you hook it up directly.
The comment was more for after getting the motor running. Any progress there?
If not: You can do a quick check on the motor by disconnecting it from everything up to the peckerhead and checking the resistance between the feeds on the motor - you should see some small but equal resistance between each lead set: L1-L2, L1-L3 and L2-L3. A different resistance would indicate something wrong in the motor - either the wiring or in a winding.
Finally, 20A is pretty darned low for a 7.5HP motor without a soft start, I'd expect that breaker to pop pretty quick. A couple months ago I had a 7.5HP compressor on a 30A line where the breaker would pop during the motor start and had to run a new 40A line.
To get rid of old paint, just soak the parts in Sodium Hydroxyde (NaOH). It's much cheaper than the commercial paint removers and it works by far better than any of these. But be aware that you can't use it on aluminum, because it also dissolves in NaOH.
That bent/broken rod is not too serious; the electrical issues can be dealt with (worst case is replacement motor; used 3-phase motors go for cheap). The only really expensive faults would be the ways (and or wear on the carriage or tailstock way surfaces). Before you put much time into this, you should put your super straight-edge on the ways and check for wear.
you go man. nice score, and all you showed that is wrong with it can be fixed