Machining a Bronze Cross Slide Nut for a LeBlond Lathe From a Casting
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- Опубліковано 29 жов 2023
- Machining a Bronze Cross
Slide Nut for a LeBlond
Lathe From a Casting
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The owner of the shop I did my apprenticeship in would have screamed at me for not putting the wood plate on the lath ways before changing the chuck. Great work
I cringed...
Always a pleasure Keith
Not wishing to sound like a troll but it is considered best practice to lightly tighten all the cam locks first, to seat the chuck squarely, before tightening fully so as to put less off axis strain on the taper in the chuck mount.
I'm not a machinist, but that thought occurred to me as I watched him.😀
9:39 lol, Keith, when you're centering that post, you used the center finder off of the rough casting on the outside edge. Why couldn't you just use a dial indicator to find Center? I caught you old buddy, lol... and that rough casting is about the best one I've ever seen Short of being machined. Kudos to Windy Hill Foundry
Just wonted to thank all for your help as to weather I could use an alternative piece of mettle Cheers guys
I;m glad to see somebody else dropping the chuck key. I thought it was just me.
That is a beautiful casting, bravo WHF.
Clark made a really good casting making the lathe work a whole lot easier.
Thanks Keith, great job and I'm impressed with the finish. That casting is of the highest quality. How wonderful it is to have Guy's that can make parts that you can't get any other way.
Thanks Keith happy to view :)
Good morning Keith. Looking forward to the second part. Thanks for the videos.
I love these videos where you help out a viewer - great job!
Interesting to see it all done on the lathe.
This has been a very enjoyable tutorial. Thank you.
Well done Keith
It's so cool to see the castings made at Windy Hill then you machine those parts.
Happy Monday 😊
Thank you Keith; wonderful machining.
I think this new part should have the same part number stamped on like the original 😊
why tho?
@@CatNolarawhy not?
If it's a serial number, I wouldn't stamp the same number, but perhaps the date and initials?
@@hacksaw434 well, it could be mistaken for an original part. Propably doesn't matter, but I wouldn't care to put it in, also to avoid any future confusions. Just don't feel well about putting the same part number on a copy.
@@CatNolaraMaybe KR-23. For Keith Rucker- 2023.
Keith, you are a real can-do machinist. Great video!
Looks nice, so far. That thing was *WORN*.
Thank you Keith!
Nice job and really nice casting by Clark.
Thank you for sharing.👍
Very nice photography in this episode.
I think a video on the pattern making process, tools, etc. would be excellent!
You do great work keeping old machinery working.
I recently became aware of US Navy repair ships. I’m not sure how many there were in WW I and WW II. They were equipped with extensive machine tools to make replacement parts for navy ships. They were all scrapped after the war and their machine tools sold off. You’ve had some Navy stuff over the years. Can their origins be traced?
See Wikipedia USS Vestal for a hint at their incredible story. Some actually served in battles.
I did enjoy learning/see how to change out the chuck. I have wondered in the past. All the set-up was very interesting too. Thanks for inviting us along.
One thing to add on changing chucks out is keeping a marked scrap piece of plywood near the lathe, preferably where you keep your chucks, that you set on the ways before unmounting chucks to protect your ways from potential damage in case your grip slips and you drop the chuck either when removing one or putting one back on.
Love your videos! Thanks for sharing with us!
Nice job It looks like a great job that you and Clark done well. Thanks for the video.
I use the thread file quite often on gummy material like Bronze or Aluminium, just to de-nib everything. That raw casting is very well done, obviously a very good job making the pattern
Very nice !
What a lovely surface finish.
Well done, Keith.
Super detailed on the setup and machining. Looking forward to the boring and thread cutting.
Beautiful job on the casting also.
Would be much nicer video without the forced Ad interruptions.
Thanks for sharing.
Damn stupid Ads FORCED on us by idiot UA-cam management.
Not only decide that Ad blockers are not allowed, but decide to interrupt the videos mid sentence to ruin the video.
UA-cam MANAGEMENT SUCKS.
Keith gets paid by UA-cam. Just how do you think UA-cam makes money to pay Keith and other creators? Now that you aren't getting a free ride you are crying and whining like a small child that finds out they can't take home toys from the toy store without paying. Pony up a few bucks like a big boy and pay your own way.
@@mikewatson4644
Get lost and keep your opinions to yourself. The blocker I used for years is suddenly forbidden by UA-cam and, even though the Ads are skipped ASAP, the video is interrupted and the flow of the story is lost. If you can't see that you are pathetic and inane just like YT.
@@mikewatson4644I’d be more understanding if I believed that any of the extra ad revenue was going to the content creator. Somehow I doubt it.
@@johnmorris3744 2 of the channels that I watch, Outdoors with the Morgans and Hometown Acres, the creators have quit 6 figure jobs with benefits to become full time UA-cam creators. UA-cam isn't the Tooth Fairy, they are paying the creators from ad revenue. Try doing a little research.
Before you start threading , make sure it is a single start Acme thread.
There's a couple of fellows in Texas that would likely offer the same advice.
@@oleran4569Yes I saw that. A huge embarrassment but they eventually got it right.
I saw that too. The nut was in one shop and the leadscrew was in another. Same as here.
That was not them boys working on a shaper lead screw??😊 They sure fouled ut that job,i saw that video , too.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
I'm going to be very interested to see in the next video how (a) Keith mounts the casting so that the hole for the acme thread is perpendicular to the shoulder turned today, and (b) how he establishes the centre of the new hole at the same distance from the shoulder as the old part. How do you even measure that with a worn part?
Good questions. My guess for (a) is that he drills (and then possibly bores/reams) the ID for the acme thread on the mill, clamping against the just-machined surfaces on the table or a stiff angle plate and/or setup blocks. Center can then be picked up by indicating on a 4 jaw for thread turning. And for (b) my guess is that the dimension from shoulder to center is a nominal value (like 1" or 1-1/4") and can be determined by eye, or possibly measured elsewhere on the machine by the client.
Beautiful job
How is the other Monarch coming along?
Great little project Keith! Take care and stay safe! God bless! 🙏✝️🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Careful Keith, changing that chuck; Aboms would have used a overhead crane and 4 air hose reels. Thanks for what you do.
It looks great
looking good keith!
Most excellent.
Nice job
Once again I learned something. Great work as usual!
Impressive as always,continue doing what you do best.👍👍👍😎😎😎
For some people, you said something akin to heresy... The caliper vs micrometer statement. I figure I can be 1/4 to 1/3 of a thousandth with a decent quality caliper, and most things I do only need 1 or 2 thousandths at best.
Keith, I hope you know 60 degree threads shouldn't actually come to a sharp point. They are supposed to have a tiny flat on the top, in order to allow for a rounded thread root in the mating part. IIRC the flat is supposed to be 1/4 pitch wide, with the root is allowed to be 1/8 pitch wide.
I'm honestly trying not to be picky, but you should have put a piece of plywood on the bed of the lathe before you removed the three jaw chuck....my plywood has cleats under it to hold it more in place. Two of my big lathes are from World War Two....so since they are pretty beat, I try not to beat them any more..... like your channel, and watch as often as I can. Yes I'm subscribed....
I think the only improvements would have been stamping in that part number and your makers mark on the new part. Rucker Machine tool & mfg. so someone 100 years from now doing another restoration will know you made the part!
It's always nice to see brass, bronze, or copper being machined. Maybe someday you can machine a piece of gold???
LOL, I'm imagining a full-size replica of the Golden Train Engine from Thomas the Tank Engine!
Haven't you done one of these before? I know I remember you doing one of these nuts in the past, I think that time you had to make the rod as well?
Some macinists protect the bed with a board before laying a chuck on the bed.....
As always, a good job.
I would make an improvement to the original design. Drill a hole through the center on the boss that fits through the cross slide. Pack in some felt and cap it off with a ball oiler so the feedrod and nut can be lubricated which seems to have been lacking from the condition of the original nut.
I like your thoroughness and thought process in approaching a project. Valuable instruction for all matters in life. Best wishes.
You didn't mention to those of us not in the know, if that part is still available from the manufacturer and what that might cost. I know you have mentioned this in the past on parts you have made due to the cost.
I'm curious how the location of the threaded hole will be found on the old part and located on the new part.
Nice
Whenever i make threads on a lathe i always make sure they DONT fit after thread cutting......wtf!
Did you know that Kearney and Trecker made a drill press?
Would it be beneficial to drill an oil hole and install a gitz oiler for the screw?
How do you determine if that threaded neck is completely orthogonal and in line with where the acme thread should be? I would think a small difference would amount to trouble, since that thread portion gets rigidly mounted to the lathe, and the leadscrew would be pushed one way or the other if the acme section is right under the neck like it supposed to be?
Great work this piece! I will enjoy seeing the follow-up videos! I am a woodworker not a machinist so much of this is WAY outside my understanding. I am especially interested in seeing how you find the proper center on that irregular shape. In this video, facing off the flat rectangular part of the nut and getting it to size caught my attention. The intermittent contact when the cutter is hit by that corner must cause quite an impact. What do you do to keep that from breaking the cutter? It appears you were making a fairly delicate cut because of this. Right? Realistically, how much can that cutter take without chipping off? And how does that change your choice of settings on the lathe?
Do you ever think you should do them in batches and maintain stock?
Would some oil let the part cut better?
If I remember correctly bronze is self-lubricating and you don't need oil 22:31
It could, but mostly is unnecessary for bronze, brass and other materials with good lubricity. Personally I only use oil on brass and bronze for form cutting and parting.
Will you be replicating the character stampings on the part at all?
Are you going to stamp the new part with the same numbers ? Maybe even stamp your own maker's mark in it ?
Usually I can kind of understand how a part gets worn out to the point where it needs remade. Here, not really. Did they push really hard on the cross slide, like for years? If so, why? There's a lot of thread engagement, so it'd take a lot of force to wear it out
Everything wears if you just use it enough. More so if it's not lubricated frequently/properly, even more so if you get contaminants inside. It is completely normal for these nuts to wear out after several decades of hard use.
How do you figure out the distance from the flat mounting surface to the center axis of the acme thread? If you put the leadscrew in to measure the distance it will rattle around loose due to wear. I think I could make this part except that aspect of it has me flumoxed! I hope you can cover that
😊😊😊😊😊
If making a new casting wasn't practical, could you have saved the original by boring out the worn threads, inserted a brass rod then drilled and cut new threads?
nice casting and machining . i have a question for all as i KNOW KEITH wont answer . could you make this part from a piece of bronze or brass . asking i i need to make one and don't have access nor the dollars to get a casting made Cheers all .
Well sure. You’d want to use a bronze alloy. That said, a chunk of bronze large enough isn’t going to be in the $1 bin.
@@grntitan1 so bronze alloy okay thanks yes i know i wont fined a piece the size i need in the cheep bin but i think it may be cheaper than getting one cast i don't know but will soon fined out when i start looking thank you for the advice Cheers ?? could you make one from steel ?
You could make it from steel but bronze is softer so the wear occurs there rather than in an expensive lead screw which a steel nut would do. If you want a cheap alternative use delrin or uhmw .
You could make it from bronze stock, or even cast iron stock no problem. Casting makes for less machining time and less material wasted, but offers no other benefit. I would avoid brass, as it is much softer and will wear faster. A bearing bronze would be best. If you can not get a piece big enough you could make the body out of steel and press or glue in a bronze insert for the lead screw thread.
I haven’t been keeping up but has Keith lost weight? Or been sick?
No, the TV subtracts 50 lbs.
Damn, Keith lost some weight, I thought it was hard for older dudes to do that! I’d love to drop some 30lbs!