Hey, Keith, 4 years later and I gots to make me a new key. Thanks for this. I do note @ 13:00 the "reference key" jumping about. Just another thing to make life more difficult.
Enjoyed the video as always. I liked your use of the old gib to get the correct taper. What isn’t clear to me is how you get the angle on the top and bottom of the gib. It’s already done in the next video when you start the grinding.
I had to smile while I watched you trying to avoid saying, 'yes, turcite would work, but I don't want a bodge job, I want it to be right, and traditional '. It reminded me of why your antique safe restoration is still not finished. Yes, you could have turned the dial out of a piece of brass and finished the project. But in those days they cast the dial, and that's the way you are going to do it.
I really enjoy your restoration projects Keith. Thank you for taking the time to record, edit and produce these videos. It probably takes as long to make the video as it does to do the machining.
I made a tapered gib for my milling machine. I didn't have a good template but used an Edge Technologies tramming gauge to get the angle after calculating taper per inch.
Real sharp using the complimentary angle of the gib to get the angle you want. Archimedes would be proud. Found a use for that B&S sine plate is see, good work Thanks Keith
Thanks for sharing, Keith. I will have this same repair/replace to do on my Webb lathe and your "Pilgrim-age", showing the ups and downs of your restore are motivating and inspirational. Easy to get discouraged and push projects to the side, when the going gets tough and you encounter unexpected challenges. DAMHIK. Cheers, Gary
Great video mr Keith, i have learned alot from you. May i ask if it is possible to machine first the undercuts and then the taper so i could machine it without a jig?Could this be a problem?
How are you going to attach the shims to the original gib? You don't want them just floating around where they can slip out, or worse, maybe end up overlapping. However you are going to do the attaching, it is going to have thickness, and it probably won't be 100% flat, so you are still going to end up having to grind (and probably scrape) in the shim material. Now you are dealing with scraping something softer than you are used to, which might take some practice. Overall it probably isn't much if any easier than making a new gib if you have the tools to make the gib, and Keith does.
Put Turcite on that Gib. end of problem. 1.6mm or 0.8mm and you are home free. Besides what I have been thinking about. You shold also put that on the sides...not only the flat part.
It can certainly be milled (and probably ground) since it can be scraped. However: There's some thickness of glue on the back of the turcite. How thick is that? Is it thicker on that .040 stuff Keith has than on .020 stock? Is turcite homogeneous for its full thickness from glue to the surface, or is there backing material and a different composition for facing material? Is .020 turcite a different composition than .040 turcite? Is it maybe harder because it is much thinner? I don't know the answers to those questions, but they might be reasons you wouldn't want to mill .040 turcite down to .020.
It certainly can be machined. That's the best way to do it IMO. He could also have machined the old gib down a bit to add turcite. The only issue with turcite on the gib is using a lock if it has one. Usually the lock screw pushes on the gib. If the gib has turcite, it's too slippery to hold.
He's in America so that is most likely imperial. I live in UK and it makes sense to have imperial and metric fuzz just in case! I needed some metric fuzz the other day but couldn't find it so I had to send the job back.
As easy as that stuff scrapes you likely could have scraped .020" off that gib in the time it took to make a new one. :-) Alternatively you could have used moglice and taught us about a new product. :-)
Don't you just hate those three words, "To Be Continued"? LOL I get so enthralled in your videos, and when they come to an end, it really is a let-down.
@@paulcopeland9035 if you don't pay you can't critique content? wtf? basicaly he's giving creative advice to Keith .. more action less talking... jeez.. some people are really sensitive to any critique it's hilarious.. even if they're not critiqued themselves! :D don't get your diapers wet you baby
Hey, Keith, 4 years later and I gots to make me a new key. Thanks for this. I do note @ 13:00 the "reference key" jumping about. Just another thing to make life more difficult.
Enjoyed the video as always. I liked your use of the old gib to get the correct taper. What isn’t clear to me is how you get the angle on the top and bottom of the gib. It’s already done in the next video when you start the grinding.
I had to smile while I watched you trying to avoid saying, 'yes, turcite would work, but I don't want a bodge job, I want it to be right, and traditional '.
It reminded me of why your antique safe restoration is still not finished. Yes, you could have turned the dial out of a piece of brass and finished the project. But in those days they cast the dial, and that's the way you are going to do it.
I really enjoy your restoration projects Keith. Thank you for taking the time to record, edit and produce these videos. It probably takes as long to make the video as it does to do the machining.
I look forward to the rest of this series. Always worth watching your videos Keith.
I really appreciate these videos. Certainly (super) entertaining but more than that, I have learned so much.. Thanks!
I agree with your thinking on making a new gib.
I made a tapered gib for my milling machine. I didn't have a good template but used an Edge Technologies tramming gauge to get the angle after calculating taper per inch.
Great video Keith, keep'um coming..
Real sharp using the complimentary angle of the gib to get the angle you want. Archimedes would be proud. Found a use for that B&S sine plate is see, good work Thanks Keith
Enjoyed Keith!
ATB, Robin
Thanks for sharing, Keith. I will have this same repair/replace to do on my Webb lathe and your "Pilgrim-age", showing the ups and downs of your restore are motivating and inspirational. Easy to get discouraged and push projects to the side, when the going gets tough and you encounter unexpected challenges. DAMHIK.
Cheers, Gary
Turcite grinds down real nice. I only buy a few thicknesses and grind off whatever I don’t need.
At some point, I'll be doing one too. Thanks for the lesson Professor! I appreciate it.
Good job
Thank you Keith!
Another great job Keith!! Thanks for sharing this information !
Nice project and difficult.
Can you comment on how you ascertain that the grinding wheel is perfectly square such that it gives you a precise surface on your work piece?
Looking forward to the next video.
Thanks.
Where is the next video ?
Great video mr Keith, i have learned alot from you.
May i ask if it is possible to machine first the undercuts and then the taper so i could machine it without a jig?Could this be a problem?
Beginner question. The gib is tapered, does that mean one side of the dovetail in the saddle is also tapered?
THANK YOU...for sharing.
the trick to use the original gib , for the angel , is grate .
Also love the new music.
Brass makes nice gibs as well, very compatible with cast iron,
Not brass, but bronze! Brass will get smeared on the ways.
@@sid1977 Seems to have worked out OK on my 70 year old lathe's cross slide gibs....
@@TyphoonVstrom I don't argue - it will work. Especially with plentiful lubrication... But cast iron and bronze are better.
Thanks for the videos.
Giblet gravy!
Like the updated music
Way to go. Happy and safe TG!
nice face mill
looks good to me
Wouldn't be welding on a layer of material to the old gib an acceptable solution - let's say if a making a new gib is not possible?
Been waiting for this kind of a video for a while :)
If the old gib was shortened by about an inch or so would that work? Less area in the cross slide but surely enough?
No, the adjusting screws would not reach.
@@randallanderson4999 So a spacer would be needed, maybe from the gib offcut?
Nice work !!!
Love the good work
Interesting small project. Question for you. What is the status of the three d scan of the steam pipe that the University completed?
i know it is kinda randomly asking but do anyone know of a good website to watch newly released series online?
@Jax Samir i would suggest flixzone. Just google for it :)
@Maxim Reed yup, I have been using FlixZone for months myself =)
@Maxim Reed thanks, signed up and it seems like a nice service :) I appreciate it !!
@Jax Samir happy to help xD
Put turcite on the sliding side of the gib
Nice!!!
Atom would surely think that's a job for a shaper! 😉
Damn corrector, I mean ABOM!
Other than Keith “not being crazy about the idea” is there any reason not to use shims? He said shims were quick, easy, cheap and works.
Making a new gib is a more permanent fix than shims. Better control over dimensions too.
How are you going to attach the shims to the original gib? You don't want them just floating around where they can slip out, or worse, maybe end up overlapping. However you are going to do the attaching, it is going to have thickness, and it probably won't be 100% flat, so you are still going to end up having to grind (and probably scrape) in the shim material. Now you are dealing with scraping something softer than you are used to, which might take some practice. Overall it probably isn't much if any easier than making a new gib if you have the tools to make the gib, and Keith does.
He didn't say the main thing: shims decrease rigidity.
anyone ever see etched artwork on ways for oil holding?
Put Turcite on that Gib. end of problem. 1.6mm or 0.8mm and you are home free. Besides what I have been thinking about. You shold also put that on the sides...not only the flat part.
Can a gib be made of brass?
It can be, but friction force is higher and wear resistance is lower
Can turcite be milled or ground after installation? If so, why not use the thicker material and then reduce the thickness as needed?
machintelligence
That’s exactly what I thought
I'm still salty about the guy who bit my head off for suggesting that in the last video. Turcite must have pissed in his oil can or something.
It can certainly be milled (and probably ground) since it can be scraped. However:
There's some thickness of glue on the back of the turcite. How thick is that? Is it thicker on that .040 stuff Keith has than on .020 stock?
Is turcite homogeneous for its full thickness from glue to the surface, or is there backing material and a different composition for facing material?
Is .020 turcite a different composition than .040 turcite? Is it maybe harder because it is much thinner?
I don't know the answers to those questions, but they might be reasons you wouldn't want to mill .040 turcite down to .020.
It certainly can be machined. That's the best way to do it IMO. He could also have machined the old gib down a bit to add turcite. The only issue with turcite on the gib is using a lock if it has one. Usually the lock screw pushes on the gib. If the gib has turcite, it's too slippery to hold.
@@WatchWesWork I wouldn't think that would be an issue, as the gib is held in place and adjusted by two screws, one on each end.
Guessing you're gonna grind it on your new B&S sine plate. That'll be fun.
It would last well.
Keith looking go.
Forgot unscrew gib bolt? Come on, I don't believe! :)
A fuzz is that in European or Asian standard measurement? ;-()
He's in America so that is most likely imperial. I live in UK and it makes sense to have imperial and metric fuzz just in case! I needed some metric fuzz the other day but couldn't find it so I had to send the job back.
As easy as that stuff scrapes you likely could have scraped .020" off that gib in the time it took to make a new one. :-) Alternatively you could have used moglice and taught us about a new product. :-)
you mean the gib that is rattling about lol
you might have oiled the vice ............
Don't you just hate those three words, "To Be Continued"? LOL I get so enthralled in your videos, and when they come to an end, it really is a let-down.
Ptfe strip
Hmm.. $100 for some new material to attach vs: hours of your time to design and make an entirely new piece?
Adirondacks4me Do not forget that it makes for a video for YOU to watch
And he had the cast iron on hand, so no cost in materials.
You do it your way and Keith will do it his way.
I had a similar thought to you but decided not to bother posting it.
Some guys won't buy it if they can make it. His time might be 80 an hour to a customer. But it's free to him.
too much talking latley
I suggest you unsubscribe and get your money back....Oh,wait..
@@paulcopeland9035 if you don't pay you can't critique content? wtf? basicaly he's giving creative advice to Keith .. more action less talking... jeez.. some people are really sensitive to any critique it's hilarious.. even if they're not critiqued themselves! :D don't get your diapers wet you baby