Update: It’s a good practice to apply anti-seize to the stainless exhaust bolts before installing them. I did not include this step in the video, but it is highly recommended by Kawi Performance!
Did this almost a month ago and have had absolutely NO problems 😊 Now if they would just make a Candy Burnt Orange valve cover I would be a very happy guy 😅 as always JD great video
Awesome! Some have asked about “wet starts” with the bypass plate- what has your experience been out on the water after you shut off the engine and then restart later?
I have heard that also 1 guy on a forum swore up and down my first ride I would hate as after riding for awhile and shutting it off that it will crank for a bit before it starts 🤷♂️ again i just touch the start button it fires perfect so far I can't complain about this upgrade. Like everything more time will 👍 tell
OK, awesome. The forums all suck, every single one. I deleted all my forum accounts because the information there is so bad I don’t even wanna be associated with that group of people.
Great Video I will be monitoring your success with this Plate for my 2022 Ultra 310lx, we have talked about this, Hope this solves the issue, So I will defiantly consider the upgrade, Thanks for Sharing your knowledge and wisdom with us
I have gotten some great feedback about it from others who have been running it for sometime now. I’m sure it’s going to cut down on my maintenance expenses exponentially which I am very excited about.
You do have to remove the whole exhaust to replace the coupler if you have the old steel ribbon in there because it sticks out inside the exhaust chamber once you remove that ribbon and put the bypass kit in then you can take the exhaust front off only to replace the coupling But it does not come out with OEM steel ribbon in there
I always remove the entire upper pipe assembly just to inspect the manifold etc, you can remove the filter without unbolting the whole pipe by removing the band over the port side waterbox and sliding the waterbox and lower pipe back enough to slip the filter out- I don’t demonstrate this method because I realized you can’t get a torque wrench in there to properly re-tighten the lower pipe bolts once you do get the filter swapped. The factory recommended method is to remove the entire pipe assembly like you mention and like I show in this and other videos
Another great video 👍 might be a silly question but could you not just remove the filter core and reinstall the bracket? Thanks and please keep the videos coming. Excellent 👌
Technically, yea you could. But- the KP bypass kit is made from a special marine grade aluminum that transfers heat better than the stainless steel bracket that’s part of the stock exhaust filter!
Not a bad idea, but I think the issue is more-so that there is a manufacturing defect with the filter and not that the filter is failing due to normal use- hopefully Kawasaki fixes their welds on the filter so it will last the factory specified maintenance interval of 50 hrs
Yeah I was all about “keeping the filter” but after spending a small fortune and having to take my ski apart every few months to replace a defective part- this is a great solution!
Just for curiosity, what is the procedure if I am just installing the exhaust filter bypass? Can I remove the lower exhaust assembly only? You mention that it is possible to do the install without removing the upper exhaust. Assume move the catch can (not sure if it has to be completely removed, might be possible to just remove enough hoses to move it out of the way. Assume the same loosen the exhaust hose and coupler and remove the four bolts holding the two exhaust parts together. Slide out the lower exhaust, giving access to the existing exhaust filter and two gaskets. Remove those, replace the gasket, install the bypass and install the second gasket and tighten to torque specs. Reinstall the lower exhaust assembly with the main hose and coupler and tighten the clamps. Reinstall the catch can and hose(s). Check for any exhaust leaks....
You have to remove the catch can, loosen the intercooler and move it out of the way- you then have to remove the band around the port side waterbox so you can force it back in the hull- the band is difficult you will need a very long vice grips or needle nose pliers. You can try to slide the waterbox back with the band still attached..also you have to watch the bilge line you can dislodge it by sliding the waterbox back and that is a real b**** to re-connect the line to the bilge pickup- you basically have to remove the intercooler and waterbox to get your hands back there to reattach the hose if you knock it off. I prefer to pull the main collector pipe and do it that way, but that costs you extra for the gasket...
Other brands use a downdraft style exhaust, this ski used an updraft design- heat rises so this setup is very efficient. As I mention at the end of the video- as long as you ensure the waterboxes are completely emptied of water, you will be fine.
So the Riva plate and the stock base plate are both stainless steel- which does not transfer heat very well. The Kawi Performance plate is made from a marine-grade aluminum that transfers and dissipates heat more efficiently than the others.
I hate to delete oem stuff but I have 40 hours on my ski and chaging the filter every 50 hours seems crazy. Will I see any ill effects from deleting this?
As long as you are diligent about getting all the water out of the waterboxes before storing the ski you will be fine. Keep in mind that installing this might bring up warranty issues- it will really depend on your dealer.
Have the part number for that blue coupler as well. I want to do this all before I even ride this brand new Ski I’m buying I’m the one that said that I’ve had nothing but problems with my old 310 R I had about 30 hours on it and that ribbon exhaust disintegrated into mywater box and my tensioner for the supercharger went bad quickly so maybe the part number for the automatic tensioner and I can start bulletproofing this boat before I even put it in the salt water. Thank you for any help.
Email Kawi performance sales@kawiperformance.com and tell them JD sent you- and you want the “tensioner package” featured on my channel. Steve will guide you in the right direction and help put a package together for you. I recommend the stainless exhaust hardware as well. Just tell him you want the blue exhaust coupler featured on JD’s and he’ll hook you up as well.
As long as the waterboxes are completely evacuated after each ride and are not left full of water, there should not be any issues with long term damage or corrosion.. While it’s a good intended part, the construction of the filters themselves appears to be suffering from a welding defect/ this might not have always been the case, but the last 2 years the filters have proven they cannot hold up even to the 50 hour interval recommended by Kawasaki.
If your LCD goes out, they cannot deny a warranty claim due to the install of a bypass plate. If your valves rust out and snap, destroying your engine and they see the filter bypass on there- they can deny your claim. I would argue that if the filter itself is defective, then how could consumers be expected to keep replacing a defective part at great expense? But yes, if warranty is expired go for it.
@@JDsWaterWorld i have now switched over to alternating every other clean out from salt away to the new waves RX product that actually has a lube protecting agent in the mix and you need less of it as well
Hey Jd good morning, how are you nice job aways , question i just get the kawasaki jet ski 310 any chance , you can do couple modifications on , thks let me know
Haha sorry man, I don't work on any skis but my own- but happy to make a video that would be helpful for DIY. I will be doing an install on the Riva Stage 3 pulley soon.
Hey JD , I recently purchased two 310x , the dealer is installing the led day lights and camera I just liked the color scheme a little better. One question, is this necessary for fresh water riding? I live up here in Michigan and we only have a fresh water. Thanks for all the tutorial and keep up the good work!
The oem filter still fails in fresh water, but not as often. It really all depends how many hours you log a year..it’s only really only designed to last 25-50 hours regardless of salt vs fresh though. My experience is that the filter fails closer to 25 hours if you ride aggressively, and will cost you a small fortune to keep swapping it out. Thanks for watching!!
@@JDsWaterWorld I'm coming from Sea Doos , how do you know these filter have failed ? Do you get a notification on the screen or the machine starts losing power ?
No, you don’t get any notification- it’s more of a “wear item” that you just assume needs to be replaced atleast every 50 hours. In fresh water, your filters will likely last longer than if riding in salt. The bypass plate just eliminates this maintenance item and gives you one less thing to worry about.
@@JDsWaterWorld At least for me is a hard choice right now, I have 5 years extended warranty with kawi. I guess if I do the bypass I'll void the warranty. Another question, do you think it's hard to add the ultra deck to the 310x?
Yes that is right, you would theoretically void the warranty. If you go to Kawasaki’s website and look at their product listing for the ultra deck accessory there is a PDF with the install instructions that should give you an idea- it’s fairly involved and is not reversible once you install it- must cut the rub rail and drill some holes etc. That being said, it’s fairly simple with clear instructions
I don’t plan on modding the exhaust at all, that is mostly because I don’t like the additional noise…most skis I see with aftermarket systems usually have a pretty deep drone at lower speeds, and
So how does it work if you ride for a good hour or two then go sit on a sandbar for 3-4 hours? Granted this is riding in the river, but will it build condensation over time from sitting there for that amount of time?
it appears and people stated the exh filter just has 2 welds and they break. is why you are replacing this? cant you just weld it all around ? looking at 310 tomorrow. enjoy the videos. i decided i want sc ski, but it seems like a lot of maintence on this ski. yamaha mc guy, but looking for the smoothest ride. thanks.
The welds break but also the honeycomb element dissolves. Not as much an issue with fresh water riders…although now that I have the bypass kit I have eliminated a major maintenance headache. Don’t let any salesman fool you- all supercharged skis require lots of maintenance to be reliable. The SMC Yamaha FX SVHO is a good ski, but the paint sucks and the fuel meters are having major issues. I’d look at both the FX and Ultra 310..see which fits you better
Great Video! Love seeing periodic maintenance videos. I purchased the 2022 310 Ultra LXS last year as well. I ride 100% salt as well here out of Southern California. I 20+ miles offshore and have been trying to make sure I have all my bases covered for the inevitable tow. What’s your thought’s on installing a tow valve?
So I have a buddy who had to be towed in on his 310 after his reverse bucket got stuck down- he did install a pump wedge and possibly didn’t adjust the actuator arm correctly..either way, he got towed for a few miles and after the tow checked and had no water intrusion at all in the engine. I am not sure a tow valve is necessary on the Kawasakis. I use the Unlimited PWC one-way ball drains so if I had a hose fail or something my ski wouldn’t sink.
Speaking of which, sorry for off topic a bit here but I saw the unlimited ball drains today. Bloody good idea but I just keep thinking what if something…anything from the bilge of the ski was to lodge in the check valve. Say a small piece of supercharger belt..some threads from a shop towel or rag..an old zip tie.. a chunk of electrical tape from a harness..a small piece of seaweed…the ball would become stuck open unbeknownst to you whilst your hull fills up every time you slow. Even something as small as a grain of sand is enough to hold a ball away from its seat. It’s just too risky for me.. I’ll stick with the manual drain plugs and an aftermarket electric bulge pump. Or am I missing something in the design of these check ball drain valves?
I personally ride too many hours a year to keep replacing the filter every 25 hours, it costs me thousands in parts alone, an expense I am no longer willing to take on. The filter really only functions when the engine is off, and as long as you clear out your waterboxes very well after riding you will reduce the amount of vapor in the system. Removing the filter will likely void your warranty, I personally have not yet had any issue with removing it, but if you are worried than just keep the filter and make sure to change the filter and gaskets every 25 hours
Hi there I went on Kawasaki’s performance website it’s kind of confusing. Can you let me know the part numbers that I need to buy for the exhaust manifold stainless steel bolts and the four bolts that I need to put the bypass kit on I I don’t need that exhaust ribbon to disintegrate again in my water box so the part number also for that bypass kit please
Well…the factory recommended interval is 50 hours. You will see from the guys that commented on this post and my Community post the other day, nobody seems to be getting 50 hrs out of their filters. Your dealer really should have done it before they sold you the ski but my recommendation would be to change it ASAP. I have another tutorial on changing the filter (with part numbers) if you are interested. Also, ensure your pivot bushing is well greased - and you should inspect or change your spark plugs if that was not done at 25 hrs per the manual.
@@JDsWaterWorld yeah I DOUBT the dealership did it. But looks like I’ll be ordering some parts. I’m all bout swapping out to better performance parts anyways. Probably do the bypass. Far as the plugs go. Is there a better plug you recommend? I know everything on diesel ,quads , cars. But skis. I’m a noob learning who’s making the best parts. So I’ll take any recommendations you got on some better plugs
The stock plugs are perfect- I run those PMR9B- know the part no by heart because I change them every 25 hrs like clockwork! Lucky for you I have tons of videos and tutorials where I pretty much cover all the bases! Always happy to talk Kawasakis too
@@JDsWaterWorld ok much appreciated. Yes it is fortunate for us you do the videos. Cause doesn’t seem to be many kawa guys for skis I’m self taught and UA-cam certified on most things. Lol I’ve built & tuned everything from my Raptor 700 to my Truck (Duramax ) to the wife’s car. Skis are definitely new. So it’s a huge blessing someone (you) has already started putting in the work and sharing it with all of us. And for free
Too loud, and based on what I’ve seen does not provide any performance. It does sound cool, but the noise is very loud. I have buddies with it and you can hear it 15 feet away from them
So I’m not a engineer or anything. But with a filter that’s broke it’s Welds. Essentially you could just toss the filter part out reinstall the rest of it with the 2 gaskets as well. And saved yourself $$ cause the one your buying is literally the same exact thing Lol nothing different Function wise
That’s not complete accurate- the factory plate is stainless steel, which does not transfer heat very well. The KP part is made from marine grade aluminum, which transfers heat very efficiently/ thereby reducing overall exhaust temps. Yes, you could put just the stock plate in, but you will need new gaskets as they are crush type and not reusable.
@@JDsWaterWorld yeah this would be one of those things where if you didn’t have the funds for the parts. Or in a pinch. Or say it’s a new ski and you immediately took it out. Snap the welds off of it right away. That way you’ll have lot more success with it resealing up again since there’s not be any heat. I’m actually fighting this exhaust filter RIGHT NOW! Lol. Ended up ordering bypass plate. Just way too hard to get it back together
My 2021 Yamaha FX the hull started delaminating at 85 hours, so I’ll take this over that any day! Now that I have the bypass my maintenance is basically been reduced by 2/3!
@@JDsWaterWorld Perhaps. Personally before I made my purchase of my old 2018 VXR, and just recently, 2023 Jetblaster, I set aside my personal experiences and research the big 3 companies and did some homework before pulling the trigger. Scouring the internet, I can't really find any real issues with Yamahas over the last decade outside of the odd hull failure, but can find copious amounts of issues with new Kawi's and Sea-Doos. Sea-Doos definitely seem to be the ones with endless problems, Kawi's seem to have their own fair share of build quality issues, electrical issues and engine failures, and Yamaha seems to really only have a hull issue that happens to a rare few skis based on their sales numbers. All I know is a delaminated hull will still get you back to your trailer. A blown engine of electronics failure is gonna leave you adrift. To each their own. I was close to buying a Kawi before my Jetblaster, ultimately the weight and lack of any ability to really play around on the Kawi's turned me off. Safe riding man and wish you the continued best of luck with your ski
Thanks man you too! I ride solo in the ocean, and ride hard..and the Kawis (I own 3) have never let me down. We had a wire harness issue with the 2022s right when the ski came out, as well as a recall for a software issue, but nothing else. Yeah the SeaDoos are a mess..not sure why so many people buy them- there’s literally lawsuits open right now because of defective design. The 1.8 Yamaha is a great engine- they did have issues with the SVHO heads cracking and the sprag clutches constantly failing- and continue to have that issue. The VX and GP models had defective transom plates for the 2021 and 2022 model years. The Kawis did have some piston issues but that was the previous generation and more than 8 years ago- those issues were corrected as part of a recall for those particular machines. No doubt, Yamaha makes a decent product but really the 310 is a different level of machine- It’s like the Ninja H2 Carbon of Watercraft! The Yamaha and Kawasaki are very similar in much of the driveline and engine design- with some key differences obviously
I have a 310 and an FX, and I trust the 310 over the FX when I am riding on my own. The FX is a great ski, and I have had only a couple of issues with it, but I have had zero issues with the 310. I don’t follow the sheep, just real world facts.
Update: It’s a good practice to apply anti-seize to the stainless exhaust bolts before installing them. I did not include this step in the video, but it is highly recommended by Kawi Performance!
Looking forward to doing this to my new to me 2011 Ultra 300x. If it wasn’t for your maintenance and upgrade videos I’d be in the dark! Thank you JD!
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Did this almost a month ago and have had absolutely NO problems 😊 Now if they would just make a Candy Burnt Orange valve cover I would be a very happy guy 😅 as always JD great video
Awesome! Some have asked about “wet starts” with the bypass plate- what has your experience been out on the water after you shut off the engine and then restart later?
I have heard that also 1 guy on a forum swore up and down my first ride I would hate as after riding for awhile and shutting it off that it will crank for a bit before it starts 🤷♂️ again i just touch the start button it fires perfect so far I can't complain about this upgrade. Like everything more time will 👍 tell
OK, awesome. The forums all suck, every single one. I deleted all my forum accounts because the information there is so bad I don’t even wanna be associated with that group of people.
Great Video I will be monitoring your success with this Plate for my 2022 Ultra 310lx, we have talked about this, Hope this solves the issue, So I will defiantly consider the upgrade, Thanks for Sharing your knowledge and wisdom with us
I have gotten some great feedback about it from others who have been running it for sometime now. I’m sure it’s going to cut down on my maintenance expenses exponentially which I am very excited about.
Another gem, thanks
Will be getting this also!
hahahha you were like "come on man" after taking the filter off LOL! and beautiful graveyard
Yeah..Kawasaki can do better. I hope they listen and “show they care”
You do have to remove the whole exhaust to replace the coupler if you have the old steel ribbon in there because it sticks out inside the exhaust chamber once you remove that ribbon and put the bypass kit in then you can take the exhaust front off only to replace the coupling But it does not come out with OEM steel ribbon in there
I always remove the entire upper pipe assembly just to inspect the manifold etc, you can remove the filter without unbolting the whole pipe by removing the band over the port side waterbox and sliding the waterbox and lower pipe back enough to slip the filter out- I don’t demonstrate this method because I realized you can’t get a torque wrench in there to properly re-tighten the lower pipe bolts once you do get the filter swapped. The factory recommended method is to remove the entire pipe assembly like you mention and like I show in this and other videos
Another great video.
Another great video 👍 might be a silly question but could you not just remove the filter core and reinstall the bracket? Thanks and please keep the videos coming. Excellent 👌
Technically, yea you could. But- the KP bypass kit is made from a special marine grade aluminum that transfers heat better than the stainless steel bracket that’s part of the stock exhaust filter!
Very good video thanks that’s a good fix. I would like to have a fog port on that pipe if possible.
Not a bad idea, but I think the issue is more-so that there is a manufacturing defect with the filter and not that the filter is failing due to normal use- hopefully Kawasaki fixes their welds on the filter so it will last the factory specified maintenance interval of 50 hrs
nice!!!!! thanks for the video! really looking forward to adding mine
Yeah I was all about “keeping the filter” but after spending a small fortune and having to take my ski apart every few months to replace a defective part- this is a great solution!
Question please?
Is it recommended to use Copper Spray Gasket when installing?
Good to know about the
anti-sieze on the stainless exhaust bolts.
If you are going to reuse a gasket ( not recommended but can be done in emergency) definitely use the copper spray gasket sealer!
Thank u sir.
I am Installing the KP kit with 2 new gaskets.
Just for curiosity, what is the procedure if I am just installing the exhaust filter bypass? Can I remove the lower exhaust assembly only? You mention that it is possible to do the install without removing the upper exhaust. Assume move the catch can (not sure if it has to be completely removed, might be possible to just remove enough hoses to move it out of the way. Assume the same loosen the exhaust hose and coupler and remove the four bolts holding the two exhaust parts together. Slide out the lower exhaust, giving access to the existing exhaust filter and two gaskets. Remove those, replace the gasket, install the bypass and install the second gasket and tighten to torque specs. Reinstall the lower exhaust assembly with the main hose and coupler and tighten the clamps. Reinstall the catch can and hose(s). Check for any exhaust leaks....
You have to remove the catch can, loosen the intercooler and move it out of the way- you then have to remove the band around the port side waterbox so you can force it back in the hull- the band is difficult you will need a very long vice grips or needle nose pliers. You can try to slide the waterbox back with the band still attached..also you have to watch the bilge line you can dislodge it by sliding the waterbox back and that is a real b**** to re-connect the line to the bilge pickup- you basically have to remove the intercooler and waterbox to get your hands back there to reattach the hose if you knock it off. I prefer to pull the main collector pipe and do it that way, but that costs you extra for the gasket...
You are not worrying about condensation building up from removed exhaust filter?
How are other brands deal with the issue?
Other brands use a downdraft style exhaust, this ski used an updraft design- heat rises so this setup is very efficient. As I mention at the end of the video- as long as you ensure the waterboxes are completely emptied of water, you will be fine.
what is you just use old plate and kick honeycomb off anyway
..riva has same one right...enjoy the summer somefeedback how it works ty
So the Riva plate and the stock base plate are both stainless steel- which does not transfer heat very well. The Kawi Performance plate is made from a marine-grade aluminum that transfers and dissipates heat more efficiently than the others.
Definitely smash that like!
I hate to delete oem stuff but I have 40 hours on my ski and chaging the filter every 50 hours seems crazy. Will I see any ill effects from deleting this?
As long as you are diligent about getting all the water out of the waterboxes before storing the ski you will be fine. Keep in mind that installing this might bring up warranty issues- it will really depend on your dealer.
Have the part number for that blue coupler as well. I want to do this all before I even ride this brand new Ski I’m buying I’m the one that said that I’ve had nothing but problems with my old 310 R I had about 30 hours on it and that ribbon exhaust disintegrated into mywater box and my tensioner for the supercharger went bad quickly so maybe the part number for the automatic tensioner and I can start bulletproofing this boat before I even put it in the salt water. Thank you for any help.
Email Kawi performance sales@kawiperformance.com and tell them JD sent you- and you want the “tensioner package” featured on my channel. Steve will guide you in the right direction and help put a package together for you. I recommend the stainless exhaust hardware as well. Just tell him you want the blue exhaust coupler featured on JD’s and he’ll hook you up as well.
Hey J. Hope you good bro, what long term effects / damage could be caused by removal of that exhaust filter …..
As long as the waterboxes are completely evacuated after each ride and are not left full of water, there should not be any issues with long term damage or corrosion.. While it’s a good intended part, the construction of the filters themselves appears to be suffering from a welding defect/ this might not have always been the case, but the last 2 years the filters have proven they cannot hold up even to the 50 hour interval recommended by Kawasaki.
I will be running the filter bypass going forward so I’ll keep everyone updated if I come across any issues!
So this would be ideal if your warranty expired?
If your LCD goes out, they cannot deny a warranty claim due to the install of a bypass plate. If your valves rust out and snap, destroying your engine and they see the filter bypass on there- they can deny your claim. I would argue that if the filter itself is defective, then how could consumers be expected to keep replacing a defective part at great expense? But yes, if warranty is expired go for it.
@@JDsWaterWorld i have now switched over to alternating every other clean out from salt away to the new waves RX product that actually has a lube protecting agent in the mix and you need less of it as well
Hey Jd good morning, how are you nice job aways , question i just get the kawasaki jet ski 310 any chance , you can do couple modifications on , thks let me know
Haha sorry man, I don't work on any skis but my own- but happy to make a video that would be helpful for DIY. I will be doing an install on the Riva Stage 3 pulley soon.
Thks ,good job
Hey JD , I recently purchased two 310x , the dealer is installing the led day lights and camera I just liked the color scheme a little better. One question, is this necessary for fresh water riding? I live up here in Michigan and we only have a fresh water. Thanks for all the tutorial and keep up the good work!
The oem filter still fails in fresh water, but not as often. It really all depends how many hours you log a year..it’s only really only designed to last 25-50 hours regardless of salt vs fresh though. My experience is that the filter fails closer to 25 hours if you ride aggressively, and will cost you a small fortune to keep swapping it out. Thanks for watching!!
@@JDsWaterWorld I'm coming from Sea Doos , how do you know these filter have failed ? Do you get a notification on the screen or the machine starts losing power ?
No, you don’t get any notification- it’s more of a “wear item” that you just assume needs to be replaced atleast every 50 hours. In fresh water, your filters will likely last longer than if riding in salt. The bypass plate just eliminates this maintenance item and gives you one less thing to worry about.
@@JDsWaterWorld At least for me is a hard choice right now, I have 5 years extended warranty with kawi. I guess if I do the bypass I'll void the warranty. Another question, do you think it's hard to add the ultra deck to the 310x?
Yes that is right, you would theoretically void the warranty. If you go to Kawasaki’s website and look at their product listing for the ultra deck accessory there is a PDF with the install instructions that should give you an idea- it’s fairly involved and is not reversible once you install it- must cut the rub rail and drill some holes etc. That being said, it’s fairly simple with clear instructions
Are/have you ever considering going to an aftermarket exhaust, possibly going down to a lighter single water box?
I don’t plan on modding the exhaust at all, that is mostly because I don’t like the additional noise…most skis I see with aftermarket systems usually have a pretty deep drone at lower speeds, and
So how does it work if you ride for a good hour or two then go sit on a sandbar for 3-4 hours? Granted this is riding in the river, but will it build condensation over time from sitting there for that amount of time?
No difference than stock…I have not noticed any wet start issue or any problems at all from the filter bypass pkate!
it appears and people stated the exh filter just has 2 welds and they break. is why you are replacing this? cant you just weld it all around ? looking at 310 tomorrow. enjoy the videos. i decided i want sc ski, but it seems like a lot of maintence on this ski. yamaha mc guy, but looking for the smoothest ride. thanks.
The welds break but also the honeycomb element dissolves. Not as much an issue with fresh water riders…although now that I have the bypass kit I have eliminated a major maintenance headache. Don’t let any salesman fool you- all supercharged skis require lots of maintenance to be reliable. The SMC Yamaha FX SVHO is a good ski, but the paint sucks and the fuel meters are having major issues. I’d look at both the FX and Ultra 310..see which fits you better
Great Video! Love seeing periodic maintenance videos. I purchased the 2022 310 Ultra LXS last year as well. I ride 100% salt as well here out of Southern California. I 20+ miles offshore and have been trying to make sure I have all my bases covered for the inevitable tow. What’s your thought’s on installing a tow valve?
So I have a buddy who had to be towed in on his 310 after his reverse bucket got stuck down- he did install a pump wedge and possibly didn’t adjust the actuator arm correctly..either way, he got towed for a few miles and after the tow checked and had no water intrusion at all in the engine. I am not sure a tow valve is necessary on the Kawasakis. I use the Unlimited PWC one-way ball drains so if I had a hose fail or something my ski wouldn’t sink.
Speaking of which, sorry for off topic a bit here but I saw the unlimited ball drains today. Bloody good idea but I just keep thinking what if something…anything from the bilge of the ski was to lodge in the check valve. Say a small piece of supercharger belt..some threads from a shop towel or rag..an old zip tie.. a chunk of electrical tape from a harness..a small piece of seaweed…the ball would become stuck open unbeknownst to you whilst your hull fills up every time you slow. Even something as small as a grain of sand is enough to hold a ball away from its seat. It’s just too risky for me.. I’ll stick with the manual drain plugs and an aftermarket electric bulge pump. Or am I missing something in the design of these check ball drain valves?
JD, have you noticed any decrease in oil or intake temps after removing the exhaust filter?
I have not noticed any difference in those temps.
Do you recommend this setup? I am adraid this might kill my engine as the exhaust filter has a reson to be there or not?
I personally ride too many hours a year to keep replacing the filter every 25 hours, it costs me thousands in parts alone, an expense I am no longer willing to take on. The filter really only functions when the engine is off, and as long as you clear out your waterboxes very well after riding you will reduce the amount of vapor in the system. Removing the filter will likely void your warranty, I personally have not yet had any issue with removing it, but if you are worried than just keep the filter and make sure to change the filter and gaskets every 25 hours
Would flushing with salt away prevent premature filter failure
No, I use copious amounts of salt away and it made no difference.
Hi there I went on Kawasaki’s performance website it’s kind of confusing. Can you let me know the part numbers that I need to buy for the exhaust manifold stainless steel bolts and the four bolts that I need to put the bypass kit on I I don’t need that exhaust ribbon to disintegrate again in my water box so the part number also for that bypass kit please
I replied to your other post- sorry I just saw this now!
So how often should you replace that filter ? Got my ski at 34hrs. Think I’m at 40/42hrs now.
Well…the factory recommended interval is 50 hours. You will see from the guys that commented on this post and my Community post the other day, nobody seems to be getting 50 hrs out of their filters. Your dealer really should have done it before they sold you the ski but my recommendation would be to change it ASAP. I have another tutorial on changing the filter (with part numbers) if you are interested. Also, ensure your pivot bushing is well greased - and you should inspect or change your spark plugs if that was not done at 25 hrs per the manual.
@@JDsWaterWorld yeah I DOUBT the dealership did it. But looks like I’ll be ordering some parts. I’m all bout swapping out to better performance parts anyways. Probably do the bypass. Far as the plugs go. Is there a better plug you recommend? I know everything on diesel ,quads , cars. But skis. I’m a noob learning who’s making the best parts. So I’ll take any recommendations you got on some better plugs
The stock plugs are perfect- I run those PMR9B- know the part no by heart because I change them every 25 hrs like clockwork! Lucky for you I have tons of videos and tutorials where I pretty much cover all the bases! Always happy to talk Kawasakis too
@@JDsWaterWorld ok much appreciated. Yes it is fortunate for us you do the videos. Cause doesn’t seem to be many kawa guys for skis I’m self taught and UA-cam certified on most things. Lol I’ve built & tuned everything from my Raptor 700 to my Truck (Duramax ) to the wife’s car. Skis are definitely new. So it’s a huge blessing someone (you) has already started putting in the work and sharing it with all of us. And for free
How many of the bypass plates do I need? It says $55 each on kawi performance but is that for 3 or for 1?
You just need one kit- which comes with the plate itself and 2 gaskets!
I think your spark plugs will get stuck in head without the pen part! What do you think about that???
See my spark plug video…if you torque them correctly and use anti-seize they will never get stuck. I change my plugs every 25 hours without issue.
What is the part number for that blue gem?
If you scroll down towards the bottom of this page, you’ll find the coupler! www.kawiperformance.com/exhaust.html
What’s your opinion on the atmospheric bypass trumpet?
Too loud, and based on what I’ve seen does not provide any performance. It does sound cool, but the noise is very loud. I have buddies with it and you can hear it 15 feet away from them
@@JDsWaterWorld right on. Thanks
Is this an issue and needed if only running in fresh water?
It's an issue for almost everyone I talk to...fresh or salt
What brand and where did you get the quick connect to flush the ski?
That is an expensive billet anodized flush adapter from Unlimited PWC in Japan. I also have this kit from Amazon- it’s Kawi green too! amzn.to/44Ul3Jz
Thank you
What is the big hex bolt on the exhaust for?
The 14mm bolt? Just another bolt to secure the muffler pipe to the exhaust manifold. There are 4 12mm bolts and the one long 14mm bolt
why not just use plate from broken filter. would it not be same thing
If you took the stainless plate from an old filter, ground down the old welds then yes essentially it would be the same thing.
So I’m not a engineer or anything. But with a filter that’s broke it’s
Welds. Essentially you could just toss the filter part out reinstall the rest of it with the 2 gaskets as well. And saved yourself $$ cause the one your buying is literally the same exact thing Lol nothing different Function wise
That’s not complete accurate- the factory plate is stainless steel, which does not transfer heat very well. The KP part is made from marine grade aluminum, which transfers heat very efficiently/ thereby reducing overall exhaust temps. Yes, you could put just the stock plate in, but you will need new gaskets as they are crush type and not reusable.
@@JDsWaterWorld yeah this would be one of those things where if you didn’t have the funds for the parts. Or in a pinch. Or say it’s a new ski and you immediately took it out. Snap the welds off of it right away. That way you’ll have lot more success with it resealing up again since there’s not be any heat. I’m actually fighting this exhaust filter RIGHT NOW! Lol. Ended up ordering bypass plate. Just way too hard to get it back together
Another black mark on Kawisaki.
My 2021 Yamaha FX the hull started delaminating at 85 hours, so I’ll take this over that any day! Now that I have the bypass my maintenance is basically been reduced by 2/3!
@@JDsWaterWorld Perhaps. Personally before I made my purchase of my old 2018 VXR, and just recently, 2023 Jetblaster, I set aside my personal experiences and research the big 3 companies and did some homework before pulling the trigger. Scouring the internet, I can't really find any real issues with Yamahas over the last decade outside of the odd hull failure, but can find copious amounts of issues with new Kawi's and Sea-Doos. Sea-Doos definitely seem to be the ones with endless problems, Kawi's seem to have their own fair share of build quality issues, electrical issues and engine failures, and Yamaha seems to really only have a hull issue that happens to a rare few skis based on their sales numbers.
All I know is a delaminated hull will still get you back to your trailer. A blown engine of electronics failure is gonna leave you adrift. To each their own. I was close to buying a Kawi before my Jetblaster, ultimately the weight and lack of any ability to really play around on the Kawi's turned me off.
Safe riding man and wish you the continued best of luck with your ski
Thanks man you too! I ride solo in the ocean, and ride hard..and the Kawis (I own 3) have never let me down. We had a wire harness issue with the 2022s right when the ski came out, as well as a recall for a software issue, but nothing else. Yeah the SeaDoos are a mess..not sure why so many people buy them- there’s literally lawsuits open right now because of defective design. The 1.8 Yamaha is a great engine- they did have issues with the SVHO heads cracking and the sprag clutches constantly failing- and continue to have that issue. The VX and GP models had defective transom plates for the 2021 and 2022 model years. The Kawis did have some piston issues but that was the previous generation and more than 8 years ago- those issues were corrected as part of a recall for those particular machines. No doubt, Yamaha makes a decent product but really the 310 is a different level of machine- It’s like the Ninja H2 Carbon of Watercraft! The Yamaha and Kawasaki are very similar in much of the driveline and engine design- with some key differences obviously
I have a 310 and an FX, and I trust the 310 over the FX when I am riding on my own. The FX is a great ski, and I have had only a couple of issues with it, but I have had zero issues with the 310. I don’t follow the sheep, just real world facts.