Thank you ever so much!!!!!!! It was my door switch! Saved me $500 at least. Took me a White Claw and some potato chips to figure this out with this video. Forever grateful!!!
People that make these kind of DIY videos are awesome! I have the same dryer. Suddenly stopped working. I followed the steps laid out in this video. Opened the back panel and tested the thermal fuse and true enough there is no continuity. Ordered the part and I'm waiting for it. Sir, by making and posting this video, you're actually doing a good deed, many times over any time someone is helped with this information. I'm one of them...thank you.
Helped me 100%! Showed me how to test with an Ohm meter, and what to test. Followed all of your steps with the exception of testing the wiring and plug. Turned out to be the temperature control switch as well. Thank you!
Thank you so much for posting this video!! It gave me and my 13 year old son the confidence to attempt troubleshooting on our dryer --- and ---- we fixed it!! I had to go buy a ulmmeter then followed what you said to check. Turns out it was our thermal fuse! Total cost $40 fix! Blessings!!
this video was the best i watched it explained the volt meter better than the others. I still haven't figured my dryer out yet. but now I have a better understanding and Im going to go back at it. Thanks.
Great video. You kept it simple and just happened to be the exact dryer I was working on. I had already tested everything before watching your video and it ended up being the same timer component. Thanks!
My dryer was a victim to the timer module failure just like in the video. Some info to add, but first, Thank you! You saved me from having to entertain my wife's dream of a new fancy dryer! OK. So, once I had the timer module out, same rattle. I went as far as dissecting the actual timer (2 screws). And there lies the broken component that rattles clear as day. Inside is a system of switch contacts with different combinations on a cam. The weak point is the cam pieces. Very brittle plastic compared to the other plastic materials... like the housing, shaft, etc... better stuff. On mine, it was the bottom cam that broke. That's the rattle. It's an obvious weak link. Could potentially be fixed with a careful hand and some super glue in a pinch for the seasoned model builders. Me... I'm buying a new module. Thanks again!
Hello who ever put this video out there on UA-cam because my dryer stopped working Christmas Eve night. What is funny is this video showed the exact dryer that I have and so I followed the steps and well yes just as it was for you our timer was bad and now our dryer works. Thank you very much.
This video worked for me. First step is to check the power source. My wall outlet's red wire was loose. Other vids says to check thermal fuse. That shouldn't be the first step. Wasted lots of time opening up the dryer. Multimeter setting is on Voltage AC setting. Lastly, for safety precaution always turn breaker off when touching live wires.
I've tinkered with dryers for years and have been lucky in that most of the stuff can be figured with an ohmmeter and no wiring diagram. I have taken apart a few timers and have seen that the same contact that feeds electric down to the motor and one phase to the heating element also feeds the timer motor. As soon as you turn the timer knob to set the time you should hear the timer "slick-tick-tick" plus most timer motors have a tiny window where you can see the mechanism inside it rotate if it is working. On the few timer motors that have been dead it was because the contact inside the whole timer (black plastic box) was pitted. On a rare one the noise from the timer would not stop. There was always a faint ticking sound in the washroom. The dryer would come to the end of its cycle and kept making noise. It turned out that the drive motor on the timer was shorted to ground at a point in the motor where it did not trip the breaker. A note relative to the door switch. Once I did not notice that the black metal finger that extends past the mounting hole was broken and the door did not actuate the switch when closed. Simple oversight but it drove me nuts.
Thanks for the video. I too found a rattly timer module. I took it apart and found nothing broken, but one of the levers seems out of place. Played with if for a while put it back together and it fixed the problem. Cost me $0 to fix, just a little time on youtube.
Awesome video, great walk through. All my switches were good and I was going to replace the timer as you did but when I went to put the door switch back in I noticed it was broke off and the door was not hitting it. Just something else you should check
Great video. I have the same dryer, it stopped working today and I found that my timer rattled as well. I removed the 2 screws which held the timer together and found that one of the small clips on one of the 3 rings which activate the timer's internal switches had broken off, allowing the ring to flop around and not actuate its switch. I figured out the correct placement of the ring based on it looking similar to the other 2 rings, and used some hot glue to replace the tiny broken clip (carefully so as to avoid the glue interfering with any of the working edges of the assembly.) After letting the hot glue dry in the fridge for an hour and reassembling the dryer, It seems to be working properly. I hope I used enough glue that it is stronger than it was originally. As well, I reinforced the clips on the 2 rings which hadn't failed with the glue as to hopefully prevent a similar situation with them.
thank you for the knowledge that God put through you, it has really helped us you're one amazing man to be able to get on the UA-cam and just show everyone how to do this we really really appreciate it you saved our family thank you so much.GOD bless you⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
I watched this video and found it was my timer. I found one on Amazon.com for $68. I decided to break down the timer itself since it was broken anyway right? I found there are plastic rings with ridges that tell the dryer which cycle when you turn the dial. There was a little piece of plastic no kidding no more than 2 millimeters that was supposed to catch and turn the timer from the OFF position that broke off. I screwed in a tiny eyeglass screw where it broke and BAM!! Zero cost to fix it.
AZshooterman, followed your directions this evening and all checked out ok, well, therm fuse, door switch. I didn’t have tools to check power in. When I got done and put it all back together dryer now works. It was no power whatsoever, I tool the plug cover off just to inspect the plug, but only had a little 10 amp multimeter that can’t use on 30 amp circuit. What do you think happened, why is it fixed? Maybe just a bad connection somewhere that ended up getting cleaned off?
Hi AZshooterman, enjoyed your video, very helpful. My hotpoint dryer will not start. When I turn the start knob on the motor clicks once, nothing happens. I checked the start switch and door switch they are good. Not sure if I have a thermo safety switch on this model NVL333EY0WW I didn't see one. Any Ideas?
I have 244 at my plug, but only 235 on right terminal and 9 on left terminal block of dryer. If I take chord loose from terminal and plug in while laying flat on the floor, 119 and 122 on each connection ends..241 total I've never seen this before.... Anyone else know what this is? Dryer wont power on.. loved your video AZ
AZshooterman I have this problem. No heat and it spins. So i check the heater, replaced with brand new heater, still no heat. Heater not turning on. Replaced the old thermostat with new thermostat, still no heat. Checked all wirings for continuity, all checked out good, sanded the terminals, still not heat. Replaced the whole motor with centrifugal switch, still no heat, heater does not turn on. I don't know where to go now. please help.
I know you meant well but you forgot to tell us to disconnect the power before doing any testing other than checking for initial power from the wall connection.
hi i have brand new whirlpool steam duet dryer w10224575b, first time trying to use it but it wont starting . all lights comes up, but the light in the wheel where im selecting the type of load (normal , heavy etc..) is blinking. and when i press on start bottom, it makes sound beep twice. i have tried all possible things that might be the issue but it didnt work. any idea what it might be? and it is a brand new , first time trying to use it.
MY PROBLEM IS I PUSH THE START BUTTON, AND GET ABOUT TWO SECONDS OF THE DRYER MOTOR RUNNING SOUND, THEN IT SHUTS COMPLETELY OFF, CAN YOU SUGGEST WHAT I SHOULD LOOK TO REPLACE, THANKS. Will
dude im a female dont koo no poop about this stuff but i willing to learn since my dryer wont do nothing tbe day i decided to vacuum out all the dustfrom inside. tbe problem i have with this video is your not clear on where to set the meter my meter dont look like yours mine is a Actron CP7849 its black. and in the video the cameras not close enough. so i guess i have to move on two the next video .
i brought my new dryer to italy bc they told me it would work with 220 power but i was never able to get it to work. can u help me since I can't find any kenmore assistance in the Napels area
a Circuit breaker trips when the following occurs if a dangerous scneario presents itself , usually over voltage or Over current, the Breaker is calibrated to trip after a certain level of Current of Voltage is exceeded. at this point, the breaker will create an OPEN CIRCUIT and thus create infinite resistance and therefore protect your devices so.. in simple terms it's very likely you've created a short circuit somewhere when putting things together it's likely you've Shorted Active and Neutral, that would describe what's going on i say open it again and CAREFULLY AND SAFELY Check all the connections if your not confident, call an electrician if you have a multimeter Check for High Resistance, or Low Voltage
i have a ge dryer and when i turn the start button and hold it you can hear the timer clicking but it wont kick in and run like it is suppost to could it be the timer help me out please
I checked every switch and motor and all are perfect.But the problem is when i on the switch,one of the two fuses burnet.I can not understand what is going on.pl. help if any one know the fault.
IBEW handbook was changed in 1984 on voltage 110 volts is now called 120 volts and 220 volts is now called 240 volts... you see it was 110 volts and moved up to 115 volts in the early 1930s then the power moved up to 120 volts in like the 1950s so the book changed... you can just you tube Mike Holt IBEW Chairman videos and learn something... just say`n
Thank you ever so much!!!!!!! It was my door switch! Saved me $500 at least. Took me a White Claw and some potato chips to figure this out with this video. Forever grateful!!!
People that make these kind of DIY videos are awesome! I have the same dryer. Suddenly stopped working. I followed the steps laid out in this video. Opened the back panel and tested the thermal fuse and true enough there is no continuity. Ordered the part and I'm waiting for it. Sir, by making and posting this video, you're actually doing a good deed, many times over any time someone is helped with this information. I'm one of them...thank you.
Helped me 100%! Showed me how to test with an Ohm meter, and what to test. Followed all of your steps with the exception of testing the wiring and plug. Turned out to be the temperature control switch as well. Thank you!
Thank you so much for posting this video!! It gave me and my 13 year old son the confidence to attempt troubleshooting on our dryer --- and ---- we fixed it!! I had to go buy a ulmmeter then followed what you said to check. Turns out it was our thermal fuse! Total cost $40 fix! Blessings!!
THANKS it was very helpful! Saved $150 on the service visit and the parts!!! Parts $16 it was the door switch. It was broken... God bless you!!!
Nice job going through all of the possibilities of why the dryer didn't start. Thanks for the information.
this video was the best i watched it explained the volt meter better than the others. I still haven't figured my dryer out yet. but now I have a better understanding and Im going to go back at it. Thanks.
Perfect! My timer was also the issue. This little clip saved me a ton of money. Thank you so much for this great help.
Great video. You kept it simple and just happened to be the exact dryer I was working on. I had already tested everything before watching your video and it ended up being the same timer component. Thanks!
My dryer was a victim to the timer module failure just like in the video. Some info to add, but first, Thank you! You saved me from having to entertain my wife's dream of a new fancy dryer! OK. So, once I had the timer module out, same rattle. I went as far as dissecting the actual timer (2 screws). And there lies the broken component that rattles clear as day. Inside is a system of switch contacts with different combinations on a cam. The weak point is the cam pieces. Very brittle plastic compared to the other plastic materials... like the housing, shaft, etc... better stuff. On mine, it was the bottom cam that broke. That's the rattle. It's an obvious weak link. Could potentially be fixed with a careful hand and some super glue in a pinch for the seasoned model builders. Me... I'm buying a new module. Thanks again!
+Erik Dahlgren Yea saved me 400+ Mine was the thermal fuse, cost 5 bucks on amazon for 2 fuses. So I guess i have an extra one..
Hello who ever put this video out there on UA-cam because my dryer stopped working Christmas Eve night. What is funny is this video showed the exact dryer that I have and so I followed the steps and well yes just as it was for you our timer was bad and now our dryer works. Thank you very much.
Thanks man! Watching you use the voltmeter in action, really helped. I appreciate it.
Thank you so much for your step-by-step instruction on this video. It's very helpful.
This video worked for me. First step is to check the power source. My wall outlet's red wire was loose. Other vids says to check thermal fuse. That shouldn't be the first step. Wasted lots of time opening up the dryer. Multimeter setting is on Voltage AC setting. Lastly, for safety precaution always turn breaker off when touching live wires.
Stevie B ~ Unless voltage is what you're checking for.
I've tinkered with dryers for years and have been lucky in that most of the stuff can be figured with an ohmmeter and no wiring diagram. I have taken apart a few timers and have seen that the same contact that feeds electric down to the motor and one phase to the heating element also feeds the timer motor. As soon as you turn the timer knob to set the time you should hear the timer "slick-tick-tick" plus most timer motors have a tiny window where you can see the mechanism inside it rotate if it is working. On the few timer motors that have been dead it was because the contact inside the whole timer (black plastic box) was pitted.
On a rare one the noise from the timer would not stop. There was always a faint ticking sound in the washroom. The dryer would come to the end of its cycle and kept making noise. It turned out that the drive motor on the timer was shorted to ground at a point in the motor where it did not trip the breaker.
A note relative to the door switch. Once I did not notice that the black metal finger that extends past the mounting hole was broken and the door did not actuate the switch when closed. Simple oversight but it drove me nuts.
Great video. Turned out my door switch was broken. Thanks!!
Thanks for the video. I too found a rattly timer module. I took it apart and found nothing broken, but one of the levers seems out of place. Played with if for a while put it back together and it fixed the problem. Cost me $0 to fix, just a little time on youtube.
Thank you for this video! You just saved me from having to buy an new unit!
Thanks so much! It was my door switch as well. Saved me at least $100.
Awesome video, great walk through. All my switches were good and I was going to replace the timer as you did but when I went to put the door switch back in I noticed it was broke off and the door was not hitting it. Just something else you should check
Great video. I have the same dryer, it stopped working today and I found that my timer rattled as well. I removed the 2 screws which held the timer together and found that one of the small clips on one of the 3 rings which activate the timer's internal switches had broken off, allowing the ring to flop around and not actuate its switch. I figured out the correct placement of the ring based on it looking similar to the other 2 rings, and used some hot glue to replace the tiny broken clip (carefully so as to avoid the glue interfering with any of the working edges of the assembly.) After letting the hot glue dry in the fridge for an hour and reassembling the dryer, It seems to be working properly. I hope I used enough glue that it is stronger than it was originally. As well, I reinforced the clips on the 2 rings which hadn't failed with the glue as to hopefully prevent a similar situation with them.
John McTaggart jb weld is good
Thank You for this video. I followed your instruction and found a bad thermal fuse.
thank you for the knowledge that God put through you, it has really helped us you're one amazing man to be able to get on the UA-cam and just show everyone how to do this we really really appreciate it you saved our family thank you so much.GOD bless you⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
This video is spot on I had to replace the door switch thank you very much
Awesome Video I give Kudos to the author.
I watched this video and found it was my timer. I found one on Amazon.com for $68. I decided to break down the timer itself since it was broken anyway right? I found there are plastic rings with ridges that tell the dryer which cycle when you turn the dial. There was a little piece of plastic no kidding no more than 2 millimeters that was supposed to catch and turn the timer from the OFF position that broke off. I screwed in a tiny eyeglass screw where it broke and BAM!! Zero cost to fix it.
Very good instruction!
Great video thanks, 👍👍
AZshooterman, followed your directions this evening and all checked out ok, well, therm fuse, door switch. I didn’t have tools to check power in. When I got done and put it all back together dryer now works. It was no power whatsoever, I tool the plug cover off just to inspect the plug, but only had a little 10 amp multimeter that can’t use on 30 amp circuit. What do you think happened, why is it fixed? Maybe just a bad connection somewhere that ended up getting cleaned off?
Hi AZshooterman, enjoyed your video, very helpful. My hotpoint dryer will not start. When I turn the start knob on the motor clicks once, nothing happens. I checked the start switch and door switch they are good. Not sure if I have a thermo safety switch on this model NVL333EY0WW I didn't see one. Any Ideas?
Very informative video 🙌🏾
exact same thing with mine. the timer i took apart and had a broken contact so i got one for 40 on amazon and put it in today and its working again
Rich Lo q
/
How do you check the the continuity to where the wires hook up to drier?
Thank you just fixed my dryer
Excellent video! Thank you very much! This video really helped me.
When testing wires do we leave dryer unplugged? Sorry I'm a woman trying to get this on my own
I have 244 at my plug, but only 235 on right terminal and 9 on left terminal block of dryer. If I take chord loose from terminal and plug in while laying flat on the floor, 119 and 122 on each connection ends..241 total I've never seen this before.... Anyone else know what this is? Dryer wont power on..
loved your video AZ
AZshooterman
I have this problem. No heat and it spins. So i check the heater, replaced with brand new heater, still no heat. Heater not turning on. Replaced the old thermostat with new thermostat, still no heat. Checked all wirings for continuity, all checked out good, sanded the terminals, still not heat. Replaced the whole motor with centrifugal switch, still no heat, heater does not turn on. I don't know where to go now. please help.
engineers at work....thats great i love it
Do you have link for where you got the part? I have the same dryer with similar problem. Thanks.
multimeter setting please! I can't see what you have it set on!?
I know you meant well but you forgot to tell us to disconnect the power before doing any testing other than checking for initial power from the wall connection.
excellent video thank you
hi i have brand new whirlpool steam duet dryer w10224575b, first time trying to use it but it wont starting . all lights comes up, but the light in the wheel where im selecting the type of load (normal , heavy etc..) is blinking. and when i press on start bottom, it makes sound beep twice. i have tried all possible things that might be the issue but it didnt work. any idea what it might be? and it is a brand new , first time trying to use it.
Awesome video thanks
ive got a white westinghouse heavy duty dryer that quick working not a clue as to what the problem is.
great video, thanks
As long as you hold the start button it runs @ heats fine. When you let go of start button it stops.
MY PROBLEM IS I PUSH THE START BUTTON, AND GET ABOUT TWO SECONDS OF THE DRYER MOTOR RUNNING SOUND, THEN IT SHUTS COMPLETELY OFF, CAN YOU SUGGEST WHAT I SHOULD LOOK TO REPLACE, THANKS.
Will
fishn deac just currious.. was it a bad motor?
Oh yeah ,awesome thanks a bunch hey, Just about to declare it DOD ...
dude im a female dont koo no poop about this stuff but i willing to learn since my dryer wont do nothing tbe day i decided to vacuum out all the dustfrom inside. tbe problem i have with this video is your not clear on where to set the meter my meter dont look like yours mine is a Actron CP7849 its black. and in the video the cameras not close enough. so i guess i have to move on two the next video .
i brought my new dryer to italy bc they told me it would work with 220 power but i was never able to get it to work. can u help me since I can't find any kenmore assistance in the Napels area
If I can hear the timer clicking do I still replace it?
disassemble a Maytag dryer and put it back together but now it keep knocking my breaker box off what could it be please help me
a Circuit breaker trips when the following occurs
if a dangerous scneario presents itself , usually over voltage or Over current,
the Breaker is calibrated to trip after a certain level of Current of Voltage is exceeded.
at this point, the breaker will create an OPEN CIRCUIT and thus create infinite resistance and therefore protect your devices
so.. in simple terms
it's very likely you've created a short circuit somewhere when putting things together
it's likely you've Shorted Active and Neutral, that would describe what's going on
i say open it again and CAREFULLY AND SAFELY Check all the connections
if your not confident,
call an electrician
if you have a multimeter
Check for High Resistance, or Low Voltage
Awsome help!thank you. :p
Is the thermal fuse?
how much?
well, i watched the entire video to learn how to test the timer. was a little bummed at the end. still not sure how to test my timer
were gonna keep our mult,volt, uhhh mutimeter @ 6:18 what? Your gonna keep it what>
i have a ge dryer and when i turn the start button and hold it you can hear the timer clicking but it wont kick in and run like it is suppost to could it be the timer help me out please
I checked every switch and motor and all are perfect.But the problem is when i on the switch,one of the two fuses burnet.I can not understand what is going on.pl. help if any one know the fault.
IBEW handbook was changed in 1984 on voltage 110 volts is now called 120 volts and 220 volts is now called 240 volts... you see it was 110 volts and moved up to 115 volts in the early 1930s then the power moved up to 120 volts in like the 1950s so the book changed... you can just you tube Mike Holt IBEW Chairman videos and learn something... just say`n
mine stop from working. please any help
my kenmore gas dryer only runs when I hold the start button
Dave Madden tren the switch may be bad.
you are not very clear on the test for the start button, very vague.
It should be 120 volts single and 240 total, not 110/220
iamraz ~ Not necessarily. Depends on where you live.
iamraz 110-120 or 220-240 will all work fine.
Qi
you do not know how to check a timer ??? so why are you trying to act like a Appliance repair man making a learning video???