I ran through the diagnostic checks you showed and found an issue with the thermal fuse. Now my wife thinks I am handy - thanks to your awesome video!😊
I don't have a voltmeter to check anything... I just ordered the fuse.. My wife is gonna think I'm an awesome handyman or a jackass if it's not the fuse lol
My dryer stopped working this week and is almost the exact same model as in this video. I followed your directions, tested the fuse, sure enough that was the problem. Bought a new one at a local supplier for $17, replaced it and now the dryer is running like a champ. Big money saver. Thanks for the video!
Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Fuse 3392519 did the trick. My local Whirlpool dealer had it in stock. The bag was marked $19.95, but they charged me $5 cash . It took more time to clean out the dryer vent pipe than change the fuse. A $5 item fixed everything. I took my ohm meter to the store & made sure there was a difference between my old fuse & the new one. I left the store confident that I had the right part. Videos like these are awesome! Thank you!!!!!
Excellent video, way better than others I watched, thank you! I really hope you continue to make repair videos, the way you explain is easier to follow and far better than other vids I've seen. Other vids only mentioned 3-4 things, you mention much more, which is more helpful.
Thank you so much for the comment! We hope this video could help you, and comments like this encourage us to continue putting out great content. Happy New Year!
Extremely helpful info! I ordered up some thermal fuses today since 3 of the hardware stores I stopped by don't carry them. Thank you for the great video!
We have a Whirlpool Gold Ultimate Care II. Purchased it back in 2006 and it just died. Followed this video and determined that the Thermal Fuse lacked continuity. Didn't want to wait 4-5 days for an $8 2-pack to ship from Amazon, so I was able to locate an Appliance Parts store locally and picked up a replacement for $18.99. The price is just for one, but I figured they'd have to charge more since it's housed in a traditional brick-and-morter store. And you know, support local:) We also have no use for the extra one, and we really didn't want to wait 4 days to learn whether or not there were other issues needing addressed as well. Either way, we are grateful to you for saving us from having to spend $500+ on a new dryer, because that's the path we were about to head down. So I wanted to make sure we at least thumbed up, subscribed and left you a comment!:)
Hey Bull! Really appreciate this comment. I’m so happy our video could help, and more importantly, I’m happy you didn’t end up having to buy a new machine!
Thank you for explaining everything you are doing. I have no man to teach me these things, and you explain it great for me to learn. Im forever thankful.
saved me hundreds !! any one reading this -very simple just follow the steps .I bought a multimeter at lowes for 40$ and three of the fuses for 5$ -fixed
Enjoyed your video...very well explained. My dryer still won't start after checking EVERYTHING. The only anomaly in the testing is that the push to start switch has the expected CONTINUITY both when normally open and pushed. However, with the dryer plugged in and the selector switched to any drying cycle, there is no voltage drop across the R1 / R2 start relay connectors - either when the start button is normally open, as well as when pushed and held in. Individually, BOTH pins show 120 VAC relative to ground with the start button in the normally open position which seems very odd. Any thoughts on if this relay is bad even though it's passing the continuity test?
Great video! Helped me to fixed my whirlpool dryer. I was ready to buy a new one and I run into your video. Thermal fuse was the problem. I bought a $6 multimeter to test at harbor freight. Found no conductivity through the fuse. I ordered a kit( fuse and thermostat, 4 pieces came.)for $11 dollars from Amazon. I only replace the thermal fuse. Problem fixed. I checked the switch first which was good. I could hear power sounds in the panel but it wouldn't start. Sure enough the thermal fuse. Thank you again! You explained just perfectly to save me some 💰!
Just wanted to thank you for your video. I was able to fix my dryer and save myself money from buying a new one. Very good information, content was great! Thanks alot and much success to you !
Thank you for the advice. Excellent and clear detail on how to proceed to the checkpoints. I was able to find the problem and it thermal fuse. I ordered the part @ Amazon and it is working great! Thanks again
Thanks for making this video. Pretty sure my repair is going to be a thermal fuse. Everything is clicking like it has power but the motor doesn't engage at all. This video is also good for understanding basic cleaning maintenance, componet access and safety. Well done sir! If I get it working, I will come back and comment. Whirlpool, same exact set up, BTW.
What a great video and I liked how you went in order of most probable to least likely. This is the third time I have had this issue over the last decade or so and each time it was the thermal fuse
Thanks so much…. I just Learned a lot with your video my dryer stops working I following your directions, I just pay for the part 7dls and is working right now thx thx thx
I was about to jump to the switch because it felt dead. I used your trouble shooting tree and it was the thermal fuse. Meter showed open, jumped it to verify and got the parts ordered in about fifteen minutes. Thanks!!!
I just want to say that you saved my marriage. My wife thought I was useless until I fixed her treasure dryer lmao but all jokes aside dyer thermal fuse was the problem and depending on where u get the fuse it’s pretty inexpensive. Thank you for this video and knowledge 😁👍
Great video! I could hear the motor running but the drum wasn't turning. Sure enough, the belt had snapped after 18 long years. $14 later and I'm back in business. Thanks.
Just fixed my dryer. Thermal fuse. $7.50. I’m not a wealthy man so this meant a lot. Bonus…wifey thinks I’m amazing!! Thank you for taking the time to make this! I owe you one.
Looks like the door switch no click and broke loose, which has been bad (opens and keeps running). With the 3 wired clip I’m guessing some safety rated for redundant magic here so maybe had a partial failure then stopped now. If so how about that safety rated switch 😳….wife went to lowes TBD!
Not stock at lowes, $8 on Amazon since! the door hasn’t stopped the dryer for years and no small kids we took the risk and jumped it out till it arrives. Clean have towels Again…..hahaha!
FYI - To be accurate, when testing a component, you need to isolate that component by removing at least one of the wires so you are only checking THAT component otherwise you could possibly be getting a false reading due to other items being in parallel . The "horse shoe" is called "OHMS" ( the Greek infinity sign ) which is the unit of measurement for resistance just like volts and amps are units of measurement. And like you mentioned, always have the machine unplugged when testing. Good video ! Thank you for making it !
Small dad flex to your big dad flex. THANK YOU for the great video and the explanation. $5 thermal fuse. The biggest challenge was finding the RIGHT video.
@@theappliancedudes Yes sir. So far so good. If it fails again, I may reach out for some guidance. It's not lint, I keep that very clean and check regularly. I'm guessing it either went bad over time, it was a very large load of towels, or maybe some lint came loose and clogged it down the line. Not sure. Thank you again for the great video.
Make sure you don’t have a grounded heater! If the dryer gets hot too the touch or the laundry room gets overly warm, these are signs that your heater is grounded! This is a very common cause of a tripped thermal fuse.
Thank you very much! I followed your instructions step by step getting the tools in the links you provided too and my whirlpool dryer is now working perfectly. You saved me hundreds of dollars doing it myself and I’m really appreciative. Thanks again.
Charles, we love comments like this my friend! Thank you so much for watching the video, and supporting our channel through our affiliate links my friend. Much love 🙌
Went through and checked everything you mentioned, twice. Everything checks out ok. I’m seeing on a few Google searches that there is also a belt switch somewhere by or on the motor itself? How would one test a belt switch? Thanks-Drew
Hey drew, You would effectively test the belt switch by verifying whether or not the belt was in place. If the belt is tight (like shown in the video) the belt switch is good
I have a 1996 Kenmore 90' series dryer that won't stay running unless I keep the start button depressed. I have changed out the start switch and the start switch relay - no change. The dryer also does not heat and the fuses check out fine. The door switch is good. The element is good. Voltage to the dryer checks out for 240. The idler pulley switch is good. This problem came on all at once, after a normal working cycle where the dryer was on a high heat cotton cycle, and has remained inoperative with the condition mentioned. 11-2-2022
Hi Peter - thanks for the video! In my case of old thin twin the dryer starts, is more loud then typical, turns the and then stops after 5 sec. I read elsewhere it may be the belt and rollers and I just replaced them, removed bunch of lint but it didn't help :( I also noticed that some of the wires insulation is somewhat burned. Do you think its the motor that went bad? Not that I replaced the belt I can candle replacing the motor, but don't want to spend bunch of time and $160 for the motor if it's not it. What do you think?
so mine looks similar to this, only three buttons/dials/switches. i can spin the drum by hand, and the dryer will fire up. many types of motors use start capacitors, but i only see a handful of wires heading into a harness which appears to be on the motor. i can haul it outside for a better look and flip it over etc. do these motors typically not use an external starter cap? or is there one on there, just right bolted onto the motor or motor mount assembly?
I think it means both. I'm a power lineman. I have a Fluke Multimeter. When I'm testing load on a transformer, if the amperage is over 400 Amps, it says "OL" on the screen (it's rated for 400 A only). But when I'm testing continuity, it means open line.
I have a Whirlpool dryer that will run but you really have to hit on the start switch to get it to start. So I’m assuming the start switch is going bad?
I have a Roper dryer (model RGD4440VQ1) that stopped working. I've checked everything listed in this video and it all works. Power is being sent to the motor but nothing is happening. Should I replace the motor?
The heating element, hi limit thermostat, operating thermostat etc have absolutely nothing to do with why a dryer would not spin. A heating element would not cause a dryer not to spin unless the element itself was grounded, always receiving power, and therefor tripping the hi limit thermal fuse.
Nick! so strange that you just commented about this. We have a video on this coming out next week. We will also be releasing a FREE in-depth webinar on how to build a highly profitable business doing this. Let me know if you have any questions. As for a quick tip, stick with standard electric dryers (both front and top loaders) and stick to top load direct drive washing machines. Stay away from flipping front load washers as their support systems tend to break down over time and cause headaches. Also, much more expensive to repair. Subscribe to the channel to see the content coming out about flipping appliances. We will be putting out a lot of DETAILED videos on this in the next few weeks. You can also check out the UA-cam channel "Washer Dryer Money" for now. Hope this helps, man
How about the switch on the motor that is triggered by the tensioner in the event the belt breaks? It shuts off the motor When the belt breaks it releases the switch. Can you review that and how to test it?
Hey Ted, Some dryers don’t actually have a belt switch! This is why some people complain about their motor running but the drum not actually spinning. On models that do have a belt switch, it is usually in series with the motor. I will be making a video on this shortly
Thank you for your help m, however, upon opening my dryer I now do not see the similar component that I purchase(thermal fuse) to replace on my dryer, where else should I Chacha?
I have a issue of my picture was lost, so how go about making sure what wire goes were like the wire coming from the the 4 connection thermal fuse on the blower side the wire to the heating element side where do it connect?
Thank you for your video. I have a stackable dryer Whirlpool Duet Dryer that makes a load "buzzing" sound and does not turn. It lights up all the indicators on the board. Does that sound like it could be one of the problems you mentioned?
Hey Cat! Any time a dryer has power but isn’t starting, there is usually something going on in the motor circuit. It could absolutely be one of things we talked about! What is the model number of your dryer? This is usually found on the inside of your machine!
Hello,great video, question same dryer,had one heater failed/shorted ,sparks ! anyhow new heater new thermals,checked timer,has continuity when on positions,I think motor shorted,I'm going to live test and manual trip thermal on motor see what happens, any thoughts?
Hey! If the issue you’re having is the heater circuit, you want to double check EVERYTHING in the heater circuit even if it’s all new components. The biggest culprit is usually the thermal fuse (two blue wires going to it) When you press the push to start button (with the door closed) do you hear the motor humming? Let me know. Also, what is the model number of the dryer?
Also, highly advise you not to jump anything around the motor. The motor is a large load and should you accidentally jump over the motor then you’ll REALLY have sparks
How can i find directions on cleaning out a G.E. dryer which is part of a apt size stackable. Im a 69 yr old widow. Im fairly handy with fixing and repairing. Never done a washer/ Dryer tho. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I have a 21 year old stackable. When I push the button the dryer turns on but turns off once I release the button or if the button is pushed down too long. The last time I pushed it, it smelled like something was burning.
I cant seem to figure mine out. I thought the light went out inside the dryer, but later realized I have no power to anything on the dryer. It no longer clicks like a quiet clock when I turn the timer, it wont start and the light inside is out. The outlet has 250v. All the sensors seem to check out so far. Is there a main fuse to everything maybe??
Proper continuity check of the thermal fuse requires 1 lead to be removed from the fuse. OR, with dryer plugged in, continuity is verified if both sides of the fuse have 120V.
wishi had seen this video a few months ago before I replaced a miriad of parts and it still didnt work. lol book marking for my umpteenth go at it. This dryer has been a headache. The circuit board has a faulty design as one of the traces is not robust enough to handle its own current and will shred itself apart. Fixed that by re routing the traces with thick solid copper wires, insulating them and testing and went ahead and beefed up all the traces associated with that network of components. Bingo, back up and running. Then the belt went. Fixed that. Then I found out the idler pulley's steel core ring split into two rings and likely caused the belt issue because it wasn't rolling smoothly, so I ordered one which came with the drum rollers as well. Curiously, the one I ordered supposedly for this dryer (cabrio)was actually not as "universal" as they claimed for whirlpool and was a bit larger. But I didn't realize how little space between the wheel and drum (as in virtually none) and the wheel was rolling ON the drum. I imagine this created drag so when my dryer stopped working and the belt was still intact, albeit a bit of rubber shavings inside that clued me into the pulley issue, I figured I blew a fuse so I replaced the thermal fuse. Nothing. When that didn't work I replaced the belt switch. Nothing. I heard the start button might be the problem but when I click start, it makes an initial click that I always associated with starting up, it engages the countdown on the digital display and still does nothing. So I begrudgingly replaced the motor because at this point, in for a penny, in for a pound. Got one for 40 bucks, tested its continuity, all good. I should also note that I had cleaned out the vent when I had it apart to replace the belt the first time and I upgraded the vent hose at the time as well as put in an actual vent outside because it was previously next to the washer but I installed a washtub sink years ago and the dryer got bumped to a new place. But the boys actually did that and just stuck the hose in one of the floor vents in the garage. Nice, right? I didn't know taking that damn fan blower off would be impossible without breaking it. After wrestling it for an hour here and there, getting aggro, drilling a couple tiny holes to try to get some liquid wrench on the shaft. then turning my husband loose on it as well unsuccessfully, I took a hammer to it, so I also replaced that too (and gladly!) and still NOTHING. I also bypassed the door switch by closing the circuit for testing reasons and that was also not the culprit. Same thing happens when I push the start button. All of these incidences happened a few weeks or months apart with the last year and a half. Except this last dryer won't start thing. I swear if it's the start button switch, I am going to be one angry chick. I suppose it is possible being that the switch has more than one function looking at all the wires connected to it... ooooo I'm gonna be so mad. LOL If it's not that, a faulty NEW part is the only other possibility unless its a recently faulty board component. In which case, doublely pissed off. Enraged. LOL If I missed anything, Please tell me. I am at my wits end with it and my clothes always have like reside or lint on them when I hang dry that you don't see till they dry and I KNOW tumbling would take care of. I particularly like not being bald, but this is about to have me pulling my hair out with everything else that seems to be needing maintenance. My car just getting totaled by a dipdhidiot doing 60+ in a 25 and haven't had time to go buy one, the sink having a leak in the food truck I run and can never seem to get to because there aren't enough hours in the day (or patience in this person!) Hubs likes that I like to do this stuff because he doesn't (and things get more broken when he gets bent) and I don't like cooking so it all worked out but the frustration of not fixing it vs. the satisfaction that comes with making broken shit work again is making me crazy.
I ran through the diagnostic checks you showed and found an issue with the thermal fuse. Now my wife thinks I am handy - thanks to your awesome video!😊
aha, this might be the best comment yet, brother. I’m happy I could help!
I don't have a voltmeter to check anything... I just ordered the fuse.. My wife is gonna think I'm an awesome handyman or a jackass if it's not the fuse lol
A happy wife is a happy life!
My dryer stopped working this week and is almost the exact same model as in this video. I followed your directions, tested the fuse, sure enough that was the problem. Bought a new one at a local supplier for $17, replaced it and now the dryer is running like a champ. Big money saver. Thanks for the video!
So happy to hear that my friend! Glad we could help!
Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Fuse 3392519 did the trick. My local Whirlpool dealer had it in stock. The bag was marked $19.95, but they charged me $5 cash . It took more time to clean out the dryer vent pipe than change the fuse. A $5 item fixed everything. I took my ohm meter to the store & made sure there was a difference between my old fuse & the new one. I left the store confident that I had the right part. Videos like these are awesome! Thank you!!!!!
Can’t tell you how much I love reading this stuff my friend 🙏 so happy the video could help you. Happy New year!
@@theappliancedudes Thank you & Happy New Year to you, too!
I appreciate you showing us around the machine first and your clear instructions. Thank you
Hey Rhea! Thanks for reaching out. I hope the video helped you.
Excellent video, way better than others I watched, thank you! I really hope you continue to make repair videos, the way you explain is easier to follow and far better than other vids I've seen. Other vids only mentioned 3-4 things, you mention much more, which is more helpful.
Thank you so much for the comment! We hope this video could help you, and comments like this encourage us to continue putting out great content. Happy New Year!
Extremely helpful info! I ordered up some thermal fuses today since 3 of the hardware stores I stopped by don't carry them. Thank you for the great video!
It’s because the dam thing is such a common repair, man! Did you confirm it was the thermal fuse?
We have a Whirlpool Gold Ultimate Care II. Purchased it back in 2006 and it just died. Followed this video and determined that the Thermal Fuse lacked continuity. Didn't want to wait 4-5 days for an $8 2-pack to ship from Amazon, so I was able to locate an Appliance Parts store locally and picked up a replacement for $18.99. The price is just for one, but I figured they'd have to charge more since it's housed in a traditional brick-and-morter store. And you know, support local:) We also have no use for the extra one, and we really didn't want to wait 4 days to learn whether or not there were other issues needing addressed as well.
Either way, we are grateful to you for saving us from having to spend $500+ on a new dryer, because that's the path we were about to head down. So I wanted to make sure we at least thumbed up, subscribed and left you a comment!:)
Hey Bull!
Really appreciate this comment. I’m so happy our video could help, and more importantly, I’m happy you didn’t end up having to buy a new machine!
Thank you for explaining everything you are doing. I have no man to teach me these things, and you explain it great for me to learn. Im forever thankful.
Hey Veronica! Thanks for reaching out. So happy the video helped you out.
saved me hundreds !! any one reading this -very simple just follow the steps .I bought a multimeter at lowes for 40$ and three of the fuses for 5$ -fixed
So ghost the video helped 🙌
Thanks for the very helpful video. You helped me find the problem with mine. Wish you the best. We need more of you around!
Enjoyed your video...very well explained. My dryer still won't start after checking EVERYTHING. The only anomaly in the testing is that the push to start switch has the expected CONTINUITY both when normally open and pushed. However, with the dryer plugged in and the selector switched to any drying cycle, there is no voltage drop across the R1 / R2 start relay connectors - either when the start button is normally open, as well as when pushed and held in. Individually, BOTH pins show 120 VAC relative to ground with the start button in the normally open position which seems very odd. Any thoughts on if this relay is bad even though it's passing the continuity test?
Excellent, very informative video! Thanks, youre doing us DIY'ers s great service with content like this!!
Great video! Helped me to fixed my whirlpool dryer. I was ready to buy a new one and I run into your video. Thermal fuse was the problem. I bought a $6 multimeter to test at harbor freight. Found no conductivity through the fuse. I ordered a kit( fuse and thermostat, 4 pieces came.)for $11 dollars from Amazon. I only replace the thermal fuse. Problem fixed. I checked the switch first which was good. I could hear power sounds in the panel but it wouldn't start. Sure enough the thermal fuse. Thank you again! You explained just perfectly to save me some 💰!
Happy to hear the video helped you out Obed! Make sure you clean the lint inside the dryer to avoid the thermal fuse from tripping again!
Just wanted to thank you for your video. I was able to fix my dryer and save myself money from buying a new one. Very good information, content was great! Thanks alot and much success to you !
Very helpful , never thought about all of these steps and actually helped me fix this !
Glad you enjoyed it my friend!
Just replaced the thermal fuse on my Dryer and it’s working again. Thanks 👍🏾
No problem! Glad the video could help
Thanks for taken the time bro.. I went right to the button on the door, and that’s what it was. Thanks again.
You helped me fix it !!!!! Thank you so much !!!!
Thanks appliance dudes for helping me diagnose and repair my whirlpool dryer.respect dudes
Thanks so much! You’re vídeo was a huge help in getting my dryer up and running again.
We’re so happy to hear this! Thank you for subscribing 🙌
Found my problem to be the door switch, I’m glad that I checked it 1st. Wow what a video. Thank you sir.
Was able to diagnose mine as the thermal fuse. Kudos for having the link to them.
Thank you for the advice. Excellent and clear detail on how to proceed to the checkpoints. I was able to find the problem and it thermal fuse. I ordered the part @ Amazon and it is working great! Thanks again
Thanks for making this video. Pretty sure my repair is going to be a thermal fuse. Everything is clicking like it has power but the motor doesn't engage at all. This video is also good for understanding basic cleaning maintenance, componet access and safety. Well done sir! If I get it working, I will come back and comment. Whirlpool, same exact set up, BTW.
Yep, it was the thermal fuse. Worked like a charm! Thanks again! Saved me like $500-ish
Just reading this now, but not a problem my friend! So happy I could help!
What a great video and I liked how you went in order of most probable to least likely. This is the third time I have had this issue over the last decade or so and each time it was the thermal fuse
Thanks so much…. I just Learned a lot with your video my dryer stops working I following your directions, I just pay for the part 7dls and is working right now thx thx thx
So glad we could help! Thank you for subscribing
I was about to jump to the switch because it felt dead. I used your trouble shooting tree and it was the thermal fuse. Meter showed open, jumped it to verify and got the parts ordered in about fifteen minutes. Thanks!!!
I just want to say that you saved my marriage. My wife thought I was useless until I fixed her treasure dryer lmao but all jokes aside dyer thermal fuse was the problem and depending on where u get the fuse it’s pretty inexpensive. Thank you for this video and knowledge 😁👍
Very helpful and clear. Thank you. We need more instructional youtube channels like this instead of influencers.
You are very good instructor thank you for sharing your knowledge . Big Gunns USMC Retired
Love this my man!
Great video! I could hear the motor running but the drum wasn't turning.
Sure enough, the belt had snapped after 18 long years. $14 later and I'm back in business.
Thanks.
These are the stories I love to hear! So happy the video could help you, and keep us in mind for the future! Thanks for the comment.
Thanks So much! Subscribed. It was temp sensor the very first thing you mentioned.
Happy the video could help🙏
Just fixed my dryer. Thermal fuse. $7.50. I’m not a wealthy man so this meant a lot. Bonus…wifey thinks I’m amazing!! Thank you for taking the time to make this! I owe you one.
lmao I love this comment my man 🙌 I’m glad the video could help and I’m glad the wife is happy again 💪
I really do appreciate you bro!! You laugh… but happy wife happy life. And I’m happy!! Thx bother.
Thanks for the assistance, it was the temp sensor 👊🍻
thank you. thought so, since voltage passes thru it..
Great training, good job emphasizing the unplug safety…prob my fuse, start button or door switch. I’ll know in a few 🎉
Let me know!
Looks like the door switch no click and broke loose, which has been bad (opens and keeps running). With the 3 wired clip I’m guessing some safety rated for redundant magic here so maybe had a partial failure then stopped now. If so how about that safety rated switch 😳….wife went to lowes TBD!
@@mr.gladiator3544 I hear ya! I’d just replace the door switch tbh
Not stock at lowes, $8 on Amazon since! the door hasn’t stopped the dryer for years and no small kids we took the risk and jumped it out till it arrives. Clean have towels Again…..hahaha!
FYI - To be accurate, when testing a component, you need to isolate that component by removing at least one of the wires so you are only checking THAT component otherwise you could possibly be getting a false reading due to other items being in parallel .
The "horse shoe" is called "OHMS" ( the Greek infinity sign ) which is the unit of measurement for resistance just like volts and amps are units of measurement.
And like you mentioned, always have the machine unplugged when testing.
Good video ! Thank you for making it !
You’re 100% right. I’ll make sure to mention this in my next video
Thanks for this diagnostic tips. How do we fix once identified please?
You the bomb!! GOD bless you!
Not a problem my friend!
Small dad flex to your big dad flex. THANK YOU for the great video and the explanation. $5 thermal fuse.
The biggest challenge was finding the RIGHT video.
I love this, aha. I’m glad I could help brother. Hopefully you got her up and running again.
@@theappliancedudes Yes sir. So far so good. If it fails again, I may reach out for some guidance. It's not lint, I keep that very clean and check regularly. I'm guessing it either went bad over time, it was a very large load of towels, or maybe some lint came loose and clogged it down the line. Not sure. Thank you again for the great video.
Make sure you don’t have a grounded heater! If the dryer gets hot too the touch or the laundry room gets overly warm, these are signs that your heater is grounded! This is a very common cause of a tripped thermal fuse.
@@theappliancedudes How do I check for this?
@@dmaisuria your dryer (even when off) will feel hot inside. Like the heater is on
Thank you very much! I followed your instructions step by step getting the tools in the links you provided too and my whirlpool dryer is now working perfectly. You saved me hundreds of dollars doing it myself and I’m really appreciative. Thanks again.
Charles, we love comments like this my friend! Thank you so much for watching the video, and supporting our channel through our affiliate links my friend. Much love 🙌
Thank you for an informative and well done video.
finally the right video!
Hey Jay,
Happy the video could help, brothert!
You good Sir, are a legend!! Thank you!!
Went through and checked everything you mentioned, twice. Everything checks out ok. I’m seeing on a few Google searches that there is also a belt switch somewhere by or on the motor itself? How would one test a belt switch? Thanks-Drew
Hey drew,
You would effectively test the belt switch by verifying whether or not the belt was in place. If the belt is tight (like shown in the video) the belt switch is good
Very nice video ,thanks!!
Thank you!
Thanks!! Best explanation yet!
Glad we could help you!
Let us know if you have any other questions. Always here to help!
I have a 1996 Kenmore 90' series dryer that won't stay running unless I keep the start button depressed. I have changed out the start switch and the start switch relay - no change. The dryer also does not heat and the fuses check out fine. The door switch is good. The element is good. Voltage to the dryer checks out for 240. The idler pulley switch is good. This problem came on all at once, after a normal working cycle where the dryer was on a high heat cotton cycle, and has remained inoperative with the condition mentioned. 11-2-2022
Hey Gary,
This is an interesting issue - do you have the model number for the dryer?
Great video, thank you for posting.
Awesome video.. what does it mean if the multimeter does nothing during these tests? No beep, nothing at all. No number
I would assume this would me you have a defective multimeter
Great instruction. Thank you!
Outstanding video!
Very very helpfull, blessings from Guatemala, take care
Love hearing where our viewers are from! So happy the video could help Carlos.
Thank you very much. In my case it was the door switch.
So happy the video could help!
This video was very helpful, thanks!
Thanks Selena!
Hi Peter - thanks for the video! In my case of old thin twin the dryer starts, is more loud then typical, turns the and then stops after 5 sec. I read elsewhere it may be the belt and rollers and I just replaced them, removed bunch of lint but it didn't help :( I also noticed that some of the wires insulation is somewhat burned. Do you think its the motor that went bad? Not that I replaced the belt I can candle replacing the motor, but don't want to spend bunch of time and $160 for the motor if it's not it. What do you think?
Good video thanks.
Fuse! Thanks so much!
This is an excellent video....thanks
Thanks for the video. Looks like I need to source a thermal fuse.
Hopefully you got the repair all figured out!
@@theappliancedudes sure did. Thanks again
@@popo_53 Not a problem! Thanks for checking out the channel!
Everything is testing fine. Error code on the dryer says moisture sensor is malfunctioning but it seems fine too
Ontario California?
so mine looks similar to this, only three buttons/dials/switches. i can spin the drum by hand, and the dryer will fire up. many types of motors use start capacitors, but i only see a handful of wires heading into a harness which appears to be on the motor. i can haul it outside for a better look and flip it over etc. do these motors typically not use an external starter cap? or is there one on there, just right bolted onto the motor or motor mount assembly?
What about checking fan to see if something is stop it from turning
You would hear the motor trying to spin.
@@theappliancedudes my sisters just maje humming noses that all I check fan ok rollers have length on it alittle fuse is ok what eles can it be
thanks! & dollar door switch beats a new 500 plus dollar dryer!
Yessir it does!
I was trained that "OL" meant "Open Line" not "Overload"
It all depends on how people were trained. More or less the same thing right?!
I think it means both. I'm a power lineman. I have a Fluke Multimeter. When I'm testing load on a transformer, if the amperage is over 400 Amps, it says "OL" on the screen (it's rated for 400 A only). But when I'm testing continuity, it means open line.
Overload means too much power to load. Open line means no electricity going thru. Not the same.
@@eddiejohnston1853 and yhe winner is Eddie Johnson!!
It means Open Loop bro
hi my whirlpool heavy duty dryer moter spins a little bit then stops but makes a humming noise...could it be the capacitor perhaps
You’ll be your main winding in the motor….. is the dryer controlled by a timer?
What is the little black box next to timer with blue wires running to it
I’d have to see the model - but it is most likely a buzzer for when the cycle is done
how do you test the timer?
Thank you for the info.
Thank you)))))
No problem - so happy the video could help!
I have a Whirlpool dryer that will run but you really have to hit on the start switch to get it to start. So I’m assuming the start switch is going bad?
Yes I’d say so. The coil on the inside of the switch is probably defective
I have a Roper dryer (model RGD4440VQ1) that stopped working. I've checked everything listed in this video and it all works. Power is being sent to the motor but nothing is happening. Should I replace the motor?
I replaced the motor and it still won't start.
Do you hear a hum going to the motor? When you press start do you hear anything at all?
Thank you
HA it was the thermal fuse, it was bad thanks for the knowledge dude
So you mentioned the close sensor. Have a video on that?
Hey Gerardo,
What closed sensor are you referring to? I’m
Trying to recall when I spoke about a sensor in the video.
thank you huge help
Do motor’s all use start winding’s or are some using capacitor to start?
You should have shown how to check heating element, high limit switch, and so on. but other than that nice video.
The heating element, hi limit thermostat, operating thermostat etc have absolutely nothing to do with why a dryer would not spin. A heating element would not cause a dryer not to spin unless the element itself was grounded, always receiving power, and therefor tripping the hi limit thermal fuse.
We appreciate you commenting on the video and thank you for watching!
Want to get into flipping washers and dryers have fun fixing them been doing it a lot but don't know how to flip them on Facebook marketplace any tips
Nick! so strange that you just commented about this. We have a video on this coming out next week. We will also be releasing a FREE in-depth webinar on how to build a highly profitable business doing this. Let me know if you have any questions. As for a quick tip, stick with standard electric dryers (both front and top loaders) and stick to top load direct drive washing machines.
Stay away from flipping front load washers as their support systems tend to break down over time and cause headaches. Also, much more expensive to repair.
Subscribe to the channel to see the content coming out about flipping appliances. We will be putting out a lot of DETAILED videos on this in the next few weeks. You can also check out the UA-cam channel "Washer Dryer Money" for now. Hope this helps, man
How about the switch on the motor that is triggered by the tensioner in the event the belt breaks? It shuts off the motor
When the belt breaks it releases the switch. Can you review that and how to test it?
Hey Ted,
Some dryers don’t actually have a belt switch! This is why some people complain about their motor running but the drum not actually spinning.
On models that do have a belt switch, it is usually in series with the motor. I will be making a video on this shortly
Thank you for your help m, however, upon opening my dryer I now do not see the similar component that I purchase(thermal fuse) to replace on my dryer, where else should I Chacha?
Is it a similar model to this? Can you email me a photo of it to contact@aimlogistics.ca
Thank you SO MUCH FOR TRYING TO HELP!! I just emailed the (4) photos of the Whirlpool Dryer.
@@indyjordan743 I messaged you via email!
I have a issue of my picture was lost, so how go about making sure what wire goes were like the wire coming from the the 4 connection thermal fuse on the blower side the wire to the heating element side where do it connect?
Thanks!
a ge dryer resistor should have continuity? correct..?
A resistor should have continuity, yes.
Usually the only time you’ll see a resistor in a dryer is the heating circuit or timer circuit
How do you check the timer?
Very Good!... #397 {5-22-2024}
Thank you!
Thank you for your video. I have a stackable dryer Whirlpool Duet Dryer that makes a load "buzzing" sound and does not turn. It lights up all the indicators on the board. Does that sound like it could be one of the problems you mentioned?
Hey Cat!
Any time a dryer has power but isn’t starting, there is usually something going on in the motor circuit. It could absolutely be one of things we talked about!
What is the model number of your dryer? This is usually found on the inside of your machine!
Hello,great video, question same dryer,had one heater failed/shorted ,sparks ! anyhow new heater new thermals,checked timer,has continuity when on positions,I think motor shorted,I'm going to live test and manual trip thermal on motor see what happens, any thoughts?
Hey! If the issue you’re having is the heater circuit, you want to double check EVERYTHING in the heater circuit even if it’s all new components.
The biggest culprit is usually the thermal fuse (two blue wires going to it)
When you press the push to start button (with the door closed) do you hear the motor humming?
Let me know. Also, what is the model number of the dryer?
Also, highly advise you not to jump anything around the motor. The motor is a large load and should you accidentally jump over the motor then you’ll REALLY have sparks
Ok found problem,wire harness to door switch was pinched by someone prior to me being there, intermittent open.thanks for response,great show
@@jhenry7406 glad you got it figured out!!
How can i find directions on cleaning out a G.E. dryer which is part of a apt size stackable. Im a 69 yr old widow. Im fairly handy with fixing and repairing. Never done a washer/ Dryer tho. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I have a 21 year old stackable. When I push the button the dryer turns on but turns off once I release the button or if the button is pushed down too long. The last time I pushed it, it smelled like something was burning.
It is possible that the belt could have broke. Does it smell like burn rubber?
I cant seem to figure mine out. I thought the light went out inside the dryer, but later realized I have no power to anything on the dryer. It no longer clicks like a quiet clock when I turn the timer, it wont start and the light inside is out. The outlet has 250v. All the sensors seem to check out so far. Is there a main fuse to everything maybe??
The plug itself could be defective! Look at the connects where the plug attaches to the dryer chassis
@@theappliancedudes oh this was weeks ago lol. It was the door sensor
@@dlf1976 sorry I get so many comments! I’m happy you figured it out!
what about a kenmore with lint trap inside the main door? i cannot remove the panel in the front or in the back.
Is it a front load dryer?
Proper continuity check of the thermal fuse requires 1 lead to be removed from the fuse. OR, with dryer plugged in, continuity is verified if both sides of the fuse have 120V.
Thanks, the first item I'd check is the belt.
Was the belt broken on your appliance?
@@theappliancedudes Yes
@@williamwaters4506 happy we could help
How do you test the timer
How do u check if the timer is bad?
Hey! it all depends on the model you have. What is the model number of the dryer you have?
How do you check the timer?
wishi had seen this video a few months ago before I replaced a miriad of parts and it still didnt work. lol book marking for my umpteenth go at it. This dryer has been a headache. The circuit board has a faulty design as one of the traces is not robust enough to handle its own current and will shred itself apart. Fixed that by re routing the traces with thick solid copper wires, insulating them and testing and went ahead and beefed up all the traces associated with that network of components. Bingo, back up and running. Then the belt went. Fixed that. Then I found out the idler pulley's steel core ring split into two rings and likely caused the belt issue because it wasn't rolling smoothly, so I ordered one which came with the drum rollers as well.
Curiously, the one I ordered supposedly for this dryer (cabrio)was actually not as "universal" as they claimed for whirlpool and was a bit larger. But I didn't realize how little space between the wheel and drum (as in virtually none) and the wheel was rolling ON the drum. I imagine this created drag so when my dryer stopped working and the belt was still intact, albeit a bit of rubber shavings inside that clued me into the pulley issue, I figured I blew a fuse so I replaced the thermal fuse. Nothing.
When that didn't work I replaced the belt switch. Nothing. I heard the start button might be the problem but when I click start, it makes an initial click that I always associated with starting up, it engages the countdown on the digital display and still does nothing. So I begrudgingly replaced the motor because at this point, in for a penny, in for a pound. Got one for 40 bucks, tested its continuity, all good. I should also note that I had cleaned out the vent when I had it apart to replace the belt the first time and I upgraded the vent hose at the time as well as put in an actual vent outside because it was previously next to the washer but I installed a washtub sink years ago and the dryer got bumped to a new place. But the boys actually did that and just stuck the hose in one of the floor vents in the garage. Nice, right?
I didn't know taking that damn fan blower off would be impossible without breaking it. After wrestling it for an hour here and there, getting aggro, drilling a couple tiny holes to try to get some liquid wrench on the shaft. then turning my husband loose on it as well unsuccessfully, I took a hammer to it, so I also replaced that too (and gladly!) and still NOTHING. I also bypassed the door switch by closing the circuit for testing reasons and that was also not the culprit. Same thing happens when I push the start button. All of these incidences happened a few weeks or months apart with the last year and a half. Except this last dryer won't start thing. I swear if it's the start button switch, I am going to be one angry chick. I suppose it is possible being that the switch has more than one function looking at all the wires connected to it... ooooo I'm gonna be so mad. LOL If it's not that, a faulty NEW part is the only other possibility unless its a recently faulty board component. In which case, doublely pissed off. Enraged. LOL
If I missed anything, Please tell me. I am at my wits end with it and my clothes always have like reside or lint on them when I hang dry that you don't see till they dry and I KNOW tumbling would take care of. I particularly like not being bald, but this is about to have me pulling my hair out with everything else that seems to be needing maintenance. My car just getting totaled by a dipdhidiot doing 60+ in a 25 and haven't had time to go buy one, the sink having a leak in the food truck I run and can never seem to get to because there aren't enough hours in the day (or patience in this person!) Hubs likes that I like to do this stuff because he doesn't (and things get more broken when he gets bent) and I don't like cooking so it all worked out but the frustration of not fixing it vs. the satisfaction that comes with making broken shit work again is making me crazy.