Just a word of advice: I have done concrete restoration (decorative overlay over repaired and ground, or new concrete)... If you're going to grind concrete dry, those painter's masks are less than useless. Lose the beard, go to Lowes, and get a proper, tight fitting face mask. That is, if you wish to continue breathing afterward. I know. That dust is deadly. Now, for the actual job done above, I'd like to try that. The initial spray keeps bubbles to a minimum, and the layers with the fiber reminds me of how they make surfboards, in laminated layers. here's something we tried: Go to the pet department, fish stuff. Get that colored gravel. Use that for the aggregate sprinkled onto the initial layer. Another idea: embedded fiber optic , ends against the melimine, in organized bundles, to a light source. Polish the top. Flip the switch, and... the sky is the limit.
Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.
Good vid...... Hmmmmm.... I did one....years ago. Still looks sharp as can be. I used less, paid less and I did it with a person who had 55 years (give or take) of experience + my 5 months (give or take). A lil thicker, polished and personalised it. Thanks Dad for the help, ideas and everything else you brought to the table.
Very cool to see the old way of doing this. I am so glad modern process is done easier and in place on the cabinets. but it is always nice to see the old way of doing things.
@@Herr2Cents Absolutely. use modern supplies and do it in place. Tons of videos on youtube with how to do it the modern way. Nobody does it this way anymore as casting in place is so much easier. Search for DIY concrete countertops and start watching.
It's not the old way of doing it. That is done for finish desired and controlled environment. You try to convince an owner of a million dollar house to make a mess in the kitchen. And how do you achieve the pressed look doing it right side up?
This gave me so much validation to the process that I do. So many videos of people making countertops skip the finishing part with filling air bubbles. I slurry the surface the same way. Typically I wet the surface first before I slurry to make sure I get a good bond of the slurry to the existing piece. I do float my pours... yes heavier but so much easier and faster but I don't have issues with the fiberglass showing through.
Thanks for your time making this vid. I agree with some of the comments about fiberglass in the top layer but for the most part I learned a lot and I am grateful to people who share their time and experience for the benefit of others. For everyone with negative comments, where are your vids? I would like to critique them as well...
Really loved that. Reminds me a lot of the terrazzo floors laid in supermarkets while I worked in the refrigeration industry. Super tough like complexly textured marble.
Wax around the edges, fiberglass peels, paint rolling, all new steps for me, so I was thinking that I knew everything about concrete counters....🤓 thanks for sharing.
To everyone complaining about pouring in layers and rolling...The MOST important part of rolling the layers is actually to help the fibers lay flat. It's not mentioned in the video. If you just pour in one shot, fibers will be oriented all over the place, where the vertical ones won't do much. Like rebar, it's the horizontal fibers that are adding most of the strength.
Read this article from a certified engineer. www.concretedecor.net/decorativeconcretearticles/vol-11-no-8-novdec-2011/success-with-concrete-countertops-how-should-you-reinforce-your-countertop/
I am looking for that look of a thick overhang, an appearance of having a 5inch thick countertop for a firepit table. This is the best video I have seen to make it look like that without actually using all that cement. Now just trying to figure out all the cuts I need to make to have a rectangular in the center where the fire will be coming out. Thanks for a great video
8:30 "Sometimes I leave rigid foam in, but I think it's a cleaner look if we take it out." Even though nobody is going to look at the bottom of the countertop when it's installed. lol.
When dry grinding concrete, you should use a positive pressure HEPA filtered respirator. A standard dust mask will not stop the respirable particles between 0.1 and 5 microns that cause silicosis. Wet cutting/grinding eliminated respirable crystalline silica and is the best way to cut/grind concrete. The insidious nature of silicosis makes it particularly problematic. Symptoms may not become noticeable for 30 years after exposure. Even "accelerated silicosis" takes up to 10 years before symptoms require medical care. If you can see abrasively cut concrete dust in the air, you are being exposed to respirable crystalline silica. Crystalline silica was moved to the Group 1 Carcinogen list (same as asbestos) back in 1997 but has gotten very little attention. Legislation to improve OSHA regulations have been blocked by the concrete industry.
Ron Reiserer Thanks for the reminder Ron. Someone I know has this. He was in the concrete construction industry for 73 years and the symptoms/health issues came out of nowhere last year....
This is one of if not the best GFRC instruction videos I've seen on youtube. Very simple and easy to follow. And all of the steps were clear. Very good job.now I'm gonna do my kitchen tops lol
I’ve bought alot of the books and watched a lot of videos and this method is one of the best I’ve seen. People might think they are making it hard but there is reasons for every step to get a strong, light weight, flawless finish. Thanks for the video
I like the idea of using rigid foam to fill up space underneath; maybe using some motor oil on the boards and bottom side of the rigid foam would help with easier removal.
metallitech "And I'll take care of the sink and backsplash later off!" "CUT! Dammit Leto, it's later ON for the fifth and final time!" "Sorry guys, I had a bad day. My beard hair isn't in symbiosis with my head hair today. I have to visit the sound healer again tomorrow."
Not sure I could put that much labor into a countertop that is virtually impossible to keep stain free even with sealers applied on a continual basis but it is intriguing.
Looks great! I might have used silicone spray lubricant or even cooking spray on the forms/ foam to get it apart easier. Also I wonder if they added a curb afterwards since it wasn't scribed to the wall.
I was wondering about that, even if they didn't have a vibrating table some use the side of a drill, the knobbly chuck bit, all around the form. they like to things the long way, but it did look pretty cool, just way to labour intensive.
+Maxid1 pro shops do use vibrating tables....too costly for the DIYer, but far superior results with less effort and superior strength. Locally a professionally-made concrete counter can easily cost $10-15k+. However, folks who complain that $300 is too much for a DIY version aren't the target market.
+Maxid1 Or just use self vibrating concrete with glasfiber reinforcements. You could even tap the form with a hammer or like above, use a drill with a wobbly ting. If you have a powerful vibrating dildo that works too :) All in all it was a great video, i got inspiration from it :D
Amazing video. For the DIY guy, or gal, you could have a sweet counter top that is a cool, chic and very modern at a fraction of the cost of anything else since it's all labor. Additionally, you get bragging rights when your guests are amazed at your handy work. Win/win situation in my opinion. Besides, who's afraid of a little work?
Im currently building concrete countertops and would like to share what I’ve learned so far. I have three pieces. Ive used this video and others as well as general google and other print sources. I will continue to update as I proceed. I used 5000 PSI general use concrete widely available. 10 80lb. Bags. I want my countertops to be a dark grey but not too dark so Im using Half a box of dye per bag. Re-enforced with a tight wire screening. Currently I’m waiting for the slabs to cure. I want to make sure its completely dry before I disturb it. I also want to note I have very little experience with concrete and doing this primarily on my own. Things I’ve learned; This project requires a lot of space. Something to consider. I have three pieces in my garage and its put a stop to other projects until this is completed. Melamine is not easy to work with. Its really heavy and requires some know-how when cutting to avoid splintered edges. I used a finish blade and tape on the cut line to prevent it but using a high tooth count blade mounted backs and/or pre score the cuts also does the trick. Practice on some scrap until you get this down because straight edges are important and everything is going to be exposed on the final outcome. I used thick melamine stock because I one of my sections is a large slab and I wanted to make sure I had a very flat and level surface. No sag. For this I also spent a lot of time making sure I had enough support underneath and spaced out properly. I also made sure it was level as I knew my garage floor wasn’t so this required some shims. Since my home is older I know my walls have some bow and I need to plan for a gap with a straight edge countertop. Even though it maybe minimal and covered by the tiled backsplash I thought id make a template to get as accurate as possible. The 4x8 luan was an extra $20 investment. Spent a few more dollars on a glue gun from Walmart. Labeling the template helped as you put the forms together. Dont forget if your not building these countertops in place your and using the method above you’ll have to flip them. Edge boards. I cut down my boards to the needed surface area. Taken into account the form edges and some extra. Preferably length wise. The extra stock I ripped on the table saw in needed cuts for my edges. Using the chop saw as I layed out and wrapped my template.once in place I used a countersink bit and drywall screws to secure it. Taped the holes. Note: this is one area that needs more attention as the tape may come off or not seal the opening when your working the concrete later. Id use additional materials to temporarily fill the screw holes. Although I now own a glue gun I used black silicone to seal all the edges and a drywall joint knife or putty tool to pack and smooth out the edge/corners. Then vac and clean any debris. I used the cheapest olive oil as a releasing agent and rubbed it down Well with a cloth and my hands making sure everything that was coming into contact with the concrete was covered. I mixed the dye in buckets of water using a measuring cup so my color stays consistent. Then used the water bucket for pouring into my mix pan. I kept it on the dry side so it’s easier to work with, less messy, and stronger result. This takes a lot more muscle. Laying it out on the form was fun. I pushed it tight to the edges and down against the bottom of the form so I would close any gaps. Once layed out in the form like a pan I slapped and pounded the concrete down with my hands. (Using dollar store dish gloves) Once this was all packed I cut and laid out my metal screen/mesh for support. My second and filler batch was wetter then planned but still workable. This will cause a mess later as I smooth out the top. Once it was all in and layed flat I used an old jig saw without a blade to pound the air bubbles out. Honestly I was thrilled with the job that or the sander was doing. (If the sander is vibrating enough to get air bubbles out you probably poured you concrete too wet. Instead I found hitting the underside and edges with a rubber mallet did the best job. Once the air bubbles are out do a final smoothing and leveling with a 2x4,level, or anything with a straight edge. Make sure to cover while it cures. Concrete drying too quickly will cause it to crack. I noticed mine had some waves before I covered it but later leveled out. Im now waiting for it to cure. I want to give it two weeks which I think is more than needed but its a large piece and I want to make sure its ready before I disturb it. If I can post pics I will try otherwise I will provide a conclusion later and maybe copy this with pics to my own video. Thanks! Janty
Ok. Im back. The countertops cured and I took them out of the forms. They look amazing but I was surprised I found air bubbles as I thought I really worked the concrete well. I blame a combination of drier mix and not having more patience vibrating the air out. I moved the countertops onto the patio for filling the bubbles snd holes. I tried using slurry but that was really difficult and time consuming. Really had to work it into the holes. Seemed like the smaller the holes the more difficult. The larger holes were easier but then couldn’t get the slurry flush with the surface. It still looked pitted. So I ran to the store and picked up some sakrete concrete patch. It did a better job. Especially if I worked it in in a circular motion with slight pressure. (Ie, wax on, wax off) I also found that I can add the dry patch mix and work it on the surface as long as I didn’t allow it to dry. Yet this still took too much effort. Back to the store. I was considering getting some gray wood putty as it seemed that would be about the right consistency but the department rep showed me another concrete patch that was already mixed and had that peanut butter consistency I was looking for. (Believe its made by DAP and comes in a gray color) This product worked amazingly for this application. Next step-Wet sanding.
This is quite a nice technique - but I might have used foam a few mm shallower than the final thickness and then done a final screed layer so it looked neater from the bottom and didnt need grinding flat
Found myself rolling my eyes at the incompetence in tradesmanship. Not misting the form face with water, resulting in voids in the final surface. Hand applying and screeding the concrete. Not applying enough aggregate. Using fiberglass chop straight after the spray layer, resulting in surface flash. Not screeding the final application, resulting in unnecessary grinding. They even fix their mistakes by hand applying slurry to the final surface... and then they regrind it!!! Where'd they find these goons?
Mike Guitar - They didn't do enough prep work with the foam... even just letting waste concrete set on top of it. Even the glass fibres being so close to the surface is just wrong. Better to just use concrete and finish with an epoxy coating.
Mike Guitar. if you was listening instead of planning to write your rediculas comment you would have known that the rollers was compacting and getting the air bubbles out
I've watched them do the template with a dumb laser contraption that takes an hour to set up and calibrate. Doing it the old way with the strips of wood is way faster and good enough.
Yea im not a pro in this section but i am a cement plaster byt trade more than 10yrs and he did a lot of things i would not have done either way he had some good tips like mapping out a template before hand
Well, I think these would be great as a workshop countertop or something like that, but NONE of these materials are rated for food contact I'm sure, and who knows what the "sealer" is. The only advantage these countertops seem to offer vs. marble, quartz, or granite is that they can be made perfectly seamless. Otherwise they seem like a whole lot more work.
This Old House features a lot of people who spend a great deal of time fixing their own mistakes. Grinding two days too late rather than screeding on time, Patching honeycombs rather than vibrating, etc. Fiber mesh visible on the exposed surface? Not a good idea in the long term.
I agree. Ive done concrete work all my life, talk about working two times harder then you need to, also grinding back down so far that you see the fiber mesh, well that is just stupid. and these guys you have rolling the air out and scaping the side walls of your form kinda defeat the purpose of the top coat, and then adding the agg on top of a spray coat is also a wast of time, add you agg first, then your slurey mix, use a vibrator to get rid or the air pockets. and why are you leaving so much excess concrete on the form then grinding it down flush, use a trowel and level it down.
You don't screed, or vibrate, when you do GFRC with sprayed face coat. The roller gets bubbles out instead (vibrating would cause face coat to fall off vertical walls). That said, I found that if you wait about 2 hours after pouring, you can scrape the excess concrete off the bottom in a similar way to screeding, so its even with the walls, which eliminates most of the grinding after the fact.
As a DYI and an initial investment of a few things, I would have been happy with this end result if I did it myself; I'm not experienced with this type of work by any means. That being said, it does a great deal to get further advice and opinions from people who work with concrete and such because I hate unnecessary work, using wrong materials and making pointless mistake because of lack of research. If I needed one small top, I wouldn't bother and go with marble. This would work investment wise If you needed lots. There are some smart people on here.
Way overkill on the labor. Just pour it 1 1/2" thick and float it. No reason for the insulation or the grinding on the bottom. Also no need for lifts, all that trouble and he still had air bubbles. Just pour it all at once. You are gonna have to grind it anyway.
The fiberglass is re-fi reinforcement-fiber. Instead, the other option is re-bar; reinforcement iron bars and that won't show cuz it's buried in the slab.
They sprayed the concrete first so this wouldn't happen but obviously didn't do a thick enough layer or pushed the "lifts"(lol he kept calling layers of concrete "lifts" it's nonsense) too hard into the first layer without the fiber. It shouldn't have showed.
My parents had the same range that they got as a wedding present in 1968 until they passed in 16' and 17'. The same 1960's dryer that came with the house too. They're simple machines so he just fixed it when it broke. I have had the same dryer for 15 years. It was free and broken when I got it.
@@MMGJ10 yeah, the guy's going for a certain look here. Not sure if concrete is needed, but it certainly doesn't hurt. Most people would have gutted that kitchen and replaced it all with crappy modern looking plastic and particle board with space-age appliances and dramatic lighting. I appreciate this guy's aesthetic. That stove can be kept going forever.
This is a trend that was mercifully brief. It will probably be around in West Virginia or other places where the mullet still exists but fortunately not prevalent.
Note: Counter top "thickness" or edge can be 1.25" 1.5" and even 2" like in the video. BE SURE TO CHECK THIS! If you try and replace a countertop that's 1.25" with a 2" edge you will not be able to open your top drawers or doors on the cabinets because of the lip that normally hides the contact point between the countertop and the cabinets. However in this video the countertop did not have this because it was compensated with the overhang to the countertop. The standard for most cabinets have an overall depth of 24" with an overhang of 1" leaving most people with a 25" deep countertop in most cases THIS CAN EFFECT HOW YOUR APPLIANCES OPEN, so be sure to check that as well. If there is no overhang on your countertop it will look bad because then you can see the countertop meeting with the cabinets. Your welcome.
I learned a lot from this very straightforward and thorough video, but would have like to learn about possibly adding color to the concrete mix . Is that added in another discussion, video or online article- please drop a link if so. many thanks.
those counters look great but it's so labour intensive it must cost a fortune for a concrete counter instead of granite or something you just buy does anyone agree?
that pure white concrete countertop looks sheek. I will work on that. if you really want to make one..first work on a small square concrete countertop. get an idea what it takes to make one. the only issue is the waiting game..for it to completely dry and harden
+adrian bourke Concrete is cheaper than Granite and gives a much more consistent pattern. We just finished our Kitchen and were quoted $75/ft2 for Concrete and the cheapest Granite was $90/ft2 not a huge savings. 90% of the cost is pure labor, so if you make it yourself it's super cheap
+linkinprk1981 hi I really like the job but here in ireland you can buy faux granite or other type counters for smaller money again I'm not knocking the job just thought it was quite labour intensive thanks for the feedback it's ten years since I done any work in the States hope to come back soon
A couple of tips, wear gloves when handling acetone, it can burn your skin and if you put the form on saw horses to begin with you can vibrate more of the form to get rid of air bubbles and save yourself work filling holes
+jay west now would be the perfect time to point out the "easier ways" with "better results". For a DIYer with minimal experience, equipment and budget, the advice in the video is spot on. It doesn't get much easier than that. I do think they should have taken another 30 seconds to show that molding available at any lumber supply shop attached to the inside of the form can be used to create professional-looking edge contours.
+Joe Martins keep a foam form inside between two layers of concrete to make it lighter. it's multiple inches thick concrete, don't need fiber glass reinforcement. take your orbital sander to the side of the form and use it to vibrate your form to remove air bubbles. mine was only 3ft by 6 ft square but still, seems a lot easier then what they did.....
"How to Build Custom Concrete Countertops" But doesn't tell us what the ingredients are, or the amounts... "some sand, cement, and a polymer"....jeez thanks.
Home Depot for a couple of bags of 5000 PSI concrete, some #3 or 4 bar, melamine and a trowel. Rent a vibrator to kill the air bubbles. Concrete expressions has a spray on concrete release. Build your forms and you are done!
You don't need to mix your own concrete from the bottom up to build things out of concrete. Pre-mixed bags where you only need to add water are pretty cheaply available. Creating things out of a material and creating the material are two different things. If you want to learn how to sew, you don't need to be able to create your own fabrics.
What a fantastic show. I’ve watched this on PBS since I was about 10 years old. Still top notch.
The the last minutes of the show 13:45 are much more inspirational, than all previous.
Just a word of advice: I have done concrete restoration (decorative overlay over repaired and ground, or new concrete)... If you're going to grind concrete dry, those painter's masks are less than useless. Lose the beard, go to Lowes, and get a proper, tight fitting face mask. That is, if you wish to continue breathing afterward. I know. That dust is deadly. Now, for the actual job done above, I'd like to try that. The initial spray keeps bubbles to a minimum, and the layers with the fiber reminds me of how they make surfboards, in laminated layers. here's something we tried: Go to the pet department, fish stuff. Get that colored gravel. Use that for the aggregate sprinkled onto the initial layer. Another idea: embedded fiber optic , ends against the melimine, in organized bundles, to a light source. Polish the top. Flip the switch, and... the sky is the limit.
Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.
Good vid...... Hmmmmm.... I did one....years ago. Still looks sharp as can be. I used less, paid less and I did it with a person who had 55 years (give or take) of experience + my 5 months (give or take). A lil thicker, polished and personalised it. Thanks Dad for the help, ideas and everything else you brought to the table.
This is a pretty advanced diy with all the special tools.
Kevin: This guy put some sea shells in his counter top
Richard: From the seashore
lol
Very cool to see the old way of doing this. I am so glad modern process is done easier and in place on the cabinets. but it is always nice to see the old way of doing things.
Can you link the updated technique?
@@Herr2Cents Absolutely. use modern supplies and do it in place. Tons of videos on youtube with how to do it the modern way. Nobody does it this way anymore as casting in place is so much easier. Search for DIY concrete countertops and start watching.
It's not the old way of doing it. That is done for finish desired and controlled environment. You try to convince an owner of a million dollar house to make a mess in the kitchen. And how do you achieve the pressed look doing it right side up?
This gave me so much validation to the process that I do. So many videos of people making countertops skip the finishing part with filling air bubbles. I slurry the surface the same way. Typically I wet the surface first before I slurry to make sure I get a good bond of the slurry to the existing piece. I do float my pours... yes heavier but so much easier and faster but I don't have issues with the fiberglass showing through.
Thanks for your time making this vid. I agree with some of the comments about fiberglass in the top layer but for the most part I learned a lot and I am grateful to people who share their time and experience for the benefit of others. For everyone with negative comments, where are your vids? I would like to critique them as well...
Really loved that. Reminds me a lot of the terrazzo floors laid in supermarkets while I worked in the refrigeration industry. Super tough like complexly textured marble.
Who'd knew you'd be an TOH fan!
Heck I know this guy from Friday nights.
Wax around the edges, fiberglass peels, paint rolling, all new steps for me, so I was thinking that I knew everything about concrete counters....🤓 thanks for sharing.
To everyone complaining about pouring in layers and rolling...The MOST important part of rolling the layers is actually to help the fibers lay flat. It's not mentioned in the video. If you just pour in one shot, fibers will be oriented all over the place, where the vertical ones won't do much. Like rebar, it's the horizontal fibers that are adding most of the strength.
Good call!
Concreto
Read this article from a certified engineer. www.concretedecor.net/decorativeconcretearticles/vol-11-no-8-novdec-2011/success-with-concrete-countertops-how-should-you-reinforce-your-countertop/
Its not even concrete by definition it has no aggregate other than what he sprinkled in.. Its a mortar counter top
So you would not use FRC in footing or foundation pours?
I am looking for that look of a thick overhang, an appearance of having a 5inch thick countertop for a firepit table. This is the best video I have seen to make it look like that without actually using all that cement. Now just trying to figure out all the cuts I need to make to have a rectangular in the center where the fire will be coming out. Thanks for a great video
8:30 "Sometimes I leave rigid foam in, but I think it's a cleaner look if we take it out." Even though nobody is going to look at the bottom of the countertop when it's installed. lol.
Good work and very nice result! Best regards Frank
When dry grinding concrete, you should use a positive pressure HEPA filtered respirator. A standard dust mask will not stop the respirable particles between 0.1 and 5 microns that cause silicosis. Wet cutting/grinding eliminated respirable crystalline silica and is the best way to cut/grind concrete. The insidious nature of silicosis makes it particularly problematic. Symptoms may not become noticeable for 30 years after exposure. Even "accelerated silicosis" takes up to 10 years before symptoms require medical care. If you can see abrasively cut concrete dust in the air, you are being exposed to respirable crystalline silica. Crystalline silica was moved to the Group 1 Carcinogen list (same as asbestos) back in 1997 but has gotten very little attention. Legislation to improve OSHA regulations have been blocked by the concrete industry.
Thanks for the info.
whooa thats some scary shit
ill need to double check all my ppe so it meets all standards
OSHA is cracking down, we had to get our silica certificate.
Ron Reiserer thanks mom
Ron Reiserer
Thanks for the reminder Ron. Someone I know has this. He was in the concrete construction industry for 73 years and the symptoms/health issues came out of nowhere last year....
Gotta love all the weekend DYI guys here that think they know better even thought they've never done it once. haha
It would have been nice to see how they laid out the sink and took care of the sink hole in the counter top.
This was some of the most hilarious concrete work ive ever seen. Thx
This is one of if not the best GFRC instruction videos I've seen on youtube. Very simple and easy to follow. And all of the steps were clear. Very good job.now I'm gonna do my kitchen tops lol
I’ve bought alot of the books and watched a lot of videos and this method is one of the best I’ve seen. People might think they are making it hard but there is reasons for every step to get a strong, light weight, flawless finish. Thanks for the video
I like the idea of using rigid foam to fill up space underneath; maybe using some motor oil on the boards and bottom side of the rigid foam would help with easier removal.
Concrete steeped in motor oil, oh I can't wait to have dinner out of that kitchen. Pass.
14:30 "sment" -I was waiting the whole episode for that.
Great video! What kind of concrete sealer was used in this video??
I never would have never even thought of concrete as a counter top option 'till I saw this video --thanks!
Search "Michael Builds" here an youtube. He does amaizing concrete work with less steps and great results.
@@somedude0505 Cool, thanks! I'll check it out.
13:13 Memorized the hell out of that script.
metallitech he did it on purpose. I know him personally and that old guy was annoying them
Audra Clementine how was he at all annoying?
metallitech "And I'll take care of the sink and backsplash later off!"
"CUT! Dammit Leto, it's later ON for the fifth and final time!"
"Sorry guys, I had a bad day. My beard hair isn't in symbiosis with my head hair today. I have to visit the sound healer again tomorrow."
Luke Robin really? give us a story, was he constantly saying cut or something lmao
lmao funny
Corey's ponytail is fantastic
No beer, no BBQ, no nachos. I would not accept any invitation from this guy.
Also check to make sure the floor can support the extra weight.
11:33 Why not use a finishing trowel. You need less material and you have to sand a lot less.
excellent job. True artisan. I build custom furniture, next kitchen i do which might be my own will have concrete tops.
Not sure I could put that much labor into a countertop that is virtually impossible to keep stain free even with sealers applied on a continual basis but it is intriguing.
Looks great! I might have used silicone spray lubricant or even cooking spray on the forms/ foam to get it apart easier. Also I wonder if they added a curb afterwards since it wasn't scribed to the wall.
I've seen this done with a vibrating table. It gets all the air bubbles out without having to use the slurry after.
I was wondering about that, even if they didn't have a vibrating table some use the side of a drill, the knobbly chuck bit, all around the form.
they like to things the long way, but it did look pretty cool, just way to labour intensive.
+Maxid1 pro shops do use vibrating tables....too costly for the DIYer, but far superior results with less effort and superior strength. Locally a professionally-made concrete counter can easily cost $10-15k+. However, folks who complain that $300 is too much for a DIY version aren't the target market.
Joe Martins
All you need is a motor with a cam attached to it. It doesn't cost much. You can use an electric sander.
+Maxid1 Or just use self vibrating concrete with glasfiber reinforcements.
You could even tap the form with a hammer or like above, use a drill with a wobbly ting. If you have a powerful vibrating dildo that works too :)
All in all it was a great video, i got inspiration from it :D
+Maxid1 i've thought about vibrating either!
what sealer did you use . is it food save? . great job.
Amazing video. For the DIY guy, or gal, you could have a sweet counter top that is a cool, chic and very modern at a fraction of the cost of anything else since it's all labor. Additionally, you get bragging rights when your guests are amazed at your handy work. Win/win situation in my opinion. Besides, who's afraid of a little work?
A lot of people on here are. I think they look good.
Im currently building concrete countertops and would like to share what I’ve learned so far.
I have three pieces.
Ive used this video and others as well as general google and other print sources.
I will continue to update as I proceed.
I used 5000 PSI general use concrete widely available. 10 80lb. Bags.
I want my countertops to be a dark grey but not too dark so Im using
Half a box of dye per bag.
Re-enforced with a tight wire screening.
Currently I’m waiting for the slabs to cure. I want to make sure its completely dry before I disturb
it.
I also want to note I have very little experience with concrete and doing this primarily on my own.
Things I’ve learned;
This project requires a lot of space.
Something to consider. I have three pieces in my garage and its put a stop to other projects until this is completed.
Melamine is not easy to work with.
Its really heavy and requires some know-how when cutting to avoid splintered edges. I used a finish blade and tape on the cut line to prevent it but using a high tooth count blade mounted backs and/or pre score the cuts also does the trick. Practice on some scrap until you get this down because straight edges are important and everything is going to be exposed on the final outcome.
I used thick melamine stock because I one of my sections is a large slab and I wanted to make sure I had a very flat and level surface. No sag.
For this I also spent a lot of time making sure I had enough support underneath and spaced out properly.
I also made sure it was level as I knew my garage floor wasn’t so this required some shims.
Since my home is older I know my walls have some bow and I need to plan for a gap with a straight edge countertop. Even though it maybe minimal and covered by the tiled backsplash I thought id make a template to get as accurate as possible.
The 4x8 luan was an extra $20 investment. Spent a few more dollars on a glue gun from Walmart.
Labeling the template helped as you put the forms together. Dont forget if your not building these countertops in place your and using the method above you’ll have to flip them.
Edge boards. I cut down my boards to the needed surface area. Taken into account the form edges and some extra. Preferably length wise. The extra stock I ripped on the table saw in needed cuts for my edges. Using the chop saw as I layed out and wrapped
my template.once in place I used a countersink bit and drywall screws to secure it. Taped the holes.
Note: this is one area that needs more attention as the tape may come off or not seal the opening when your working the concrete later.
Id use additional materials to temporarily fill the screw holes.
Although I now own a glue gun I used black silicone to seal all the edges and a drywall joint knife or putty tool to pack and smooth out the edge/corners.
Then vac and clean any debris.
I used the cheapest olive oil as a releasing agent and rubbed it down
Well with a cloth and my hands making sure everything that was coming into contact with the concrete was covered.
I mixed the dye in buckets of water using a measuring cup so my color stays consistent. Then used the water bucket for pouring into my mix pan.
I kept it on the dry side so it’s easier to work with, less messy, and stronger result. This takes a lot more muscle.
Laying it out on the form was fun. I pushed it tight to the edges and down against the bottom of the form so I would close any gaps. Once layed out in the form like a pan I slapped and pounded the concrete down with my hands. (Using dollar store dish gloves)
Once this was all packed I cut and laid out my metal screen/mesh for support.
My second and filler batch was wetter then planned but still workable.
This will cause a mess later as I smooth out the top.
Once it was all in and layed flat I used an old jig saw without a blade to pound the air bubbles out. Honestly I was thrilled with the job that or the sander was doing. (If the sander is vibrating enough to get air bubbles out you probably poured you concrete too wet.
Instead I found hitting the underside and edges with a rubber mallet did the best job.
Once the air bubbles are out do a final smoothing and leveling with a 2x4,level, or anything with a straight edge.
Make sure to cover while it cures. Concrete drying too quickly will cause it to crack.
I noticed mine had some waves before I covered it but later leveled out.
Im now waiting for it to cure. I want to give it two weeks which I think is more than needed but its a large piece and I want to make sure its ready before I disturb it.
If I can post pics I will try otherwise I will provide a conclusion later and maybe copy this with pics to my own video.
Thanks!
Janty
Ok. Im back.
The countertops cured and I took them out of the forms. They look amazing but I was surprised I found air bubbles as I thought I really worked the concrete well. I blame a combination of drier mix and not having more patience vibrating the air out.
I moved the countertops onto the patio for filling the bubbles snd holes.
I tried using slurry but that was really difficult and time consuming. Really had to work it into the holes. Seemed like the smaller the holes the more difficult. The larger holes were easier but then couldn’t get the slurry flush with the surface. It still looked pitted.
So I ran to the store and picked up some sakrete concrete patch.
It did a better job. Especially if I worked it in in a circular motion with slight pressure. (Ie, wax on, wax off)
I also found that I can add the dry patch mix and work it on the surface as long as I didn’t allow it to dry.
Yet this still took too much effort.
Back to the store.
I was considering getting some gray wood putty as it seemed that would be about the right consistency but the department rep showed me another concrete patch that was already mixed and had that peanut butter consistency I was looking for. (Believe its made by DAP and comes in a gray color)
This product worked amazingly for this application.
Next step-Wet sanding.
Hi, pls what kind of sealer exactly is that you are using?
Tap the forms to get the air bubbles out and avoid the honey combing on the sides.
“Still a do it yourself project or not?”
“Well it’s a lot of work but it looks great”
“.. ok. So still a do it yourself project or not?”
"Thanks guys"
Rob Luke
Yes, still a do it yourself project.
Imagine accidently dropping it after all that work.
Ron H everything is a do it yourself project, if you’re brave enough. But you clearly didn’t get the joke.
Way to go this old house at making a simple process look incredibly difficult and with special tools
This is quite a nice technique - but I might have used foam a few mm shallower than the final thickness and then done a final screed layer so it looked neater from the bottom and didnt need grinding flat
Found myself rolling my eyes at the incompetence in tradesmanship. Not misting the form face with water, resulting in voids in the final surface. Hand applying and screeding the concrete. Not applying enough aggregate. Using fiberglass chop straight after the spray layer, resulting in surface flash. Not screeding the final application, resulting in unnecessary grinding. They even fix their mistakes by hand applying slurry to the final surface... and then they regrind it!!! Where'd they find these goons?
seems a bit redundant to worry about the spray finish only to cover it up with a thin layer at the end.
There's a huuuuge difference when you spray vs when you don't.
A plant really? I didnt spray mines but came out looking better than his
The "thin layer" was to fill small holes created by air bubbles. It eventually gets sanded off.
This is nothing more than a way for them to relive kinder garden hand painting without anyone dissing them for it.
😂🤣😂😎
That's why you're poor.
if you get good at doing the silicone you can push it to use the nozzle as the scraper at the same time
how bout use the release agent on ALL contacting surfaces, specifically the foam form? Vibration to remove air bubbles prevents fill labor.
Cory's a real go-getter!
No mold release on the foam? and no vibration or vacuum to pull the air bubbles out?
Mike Guitar - They didn't do enough prep work with the foam... even just letting waste concrete set on top of it. Even the glass fibres being so close to the surface is just wrong. Better to just use concrete and finish with an epoxy coating.
Sounds right. It's 'been too long since I watched this so I don't remember what's going on, lol, but thanks for the reply!
Mike Guitar. if you was listening instead of planning to write your rediculas comment you would have known that the rollers was compacting and getting the air bubbles out
I's so rediculas!
Mike Guitar you look mahvulous
wow what a money and time saver. You guys are part of Norm's Fukround Gang
What sealer did they use?
9:53 lol hits the side of the countertop with the hammer when he misses the shim and leaves a mark.
Shouldn't matter because that side goes against the wall.
dang I missed that! lol
Pastor Erez Talshahar / Altar at Bethel Church yes. But I’d always know...
These are so cool. I could watch all day
Wow nothing like adding 3 extra steps to a job that should be straight forward!
What make of hopper gun did you use
Fred Flinstone would be happy with this counter top ;)
Unfortunately, Fred never had an inkling of any of the tools used here, except maybe his hands!
Did a small sample this, now to do the whole kitchen!!!!!
these guys making this job alot harder than it needs to be 😒
lorry geewhizzbang Just you.
They made it much more complicated. It is usually done with less steps. Still, it's not worth it.
@@tombryan1 Care to explain? Why I'm asking: I was thinking of a concrete countertop for myself.
You are correct, that was actually a embarrassing pour. Way to much work afterwords to make it decent.
It seems like extra steps but it’s actually way better quality.
8:42 What a beautiful sound!!!!
Really cool I wish these guys would come and do my counter tops.
I've watched them do the template with a dumb laser contraption that takes an hour to set up and calibrate.
Doing it the old way with the strips of wood is way faster and good enough.
I love this video!! I plan on making my own exposed glass counter top. This video will help me out a lot!! Thanks.
Good idea. I`m off to make some Popcorn and watch the Goldbergs. Thanks for sharing.
would it be easier to use a putty knife and scrape off the excess cement before it dries to eliminate so much grinding?
M Malsam ...yes. yes it would. they are novice
Yes. I just did this myself first time. So much grinding cause I forgot to do this. duh.
True. Thats why there is more sanding then necessary lol.
What sealer did you use?
8:01 Thats what she said
Yea im not a pro in this section but i am a cement plaster byt trade more than 10yrs and he did a lot of things i would not have done either way he had some good tips like mapping out a template before hand
All that work to replace the beautiful wood butcher block counter. SMH.... Shame
Exactly what I was thinking.
Joe Arrowood it's actually marlite I seen this episode when it aired
Noooooo! Why ruin the beautiful smooth surface exposing ugly aggregate! 😫😫 Ah well, to each is own I guess. Great job, guys!
I've done similar work with liquid resin plastic constructing accent furniture pieces. it can be fun, but takes patience and experience.
Well, I think these would be great as a workshop countertop or something like that, but NONE of these materials are rated for food contact I'm sure, and who knows what the "sealer" is. The only advantage these countertops seem to offer vs. marble, quartz, or granite is that they can be made perfectly seamless. Otherwise they seem like a whole lot more work.
Respectfully, what do you think is in granite, quartz and various natural stones that makes it much more food safe?
messy preparation.. but worth it in the end... i like this.. thanks for sharing my friend.. i will make one like this...
This Old House features a lot of people who spend a great deal of time fixing their own mistakes. Grinding two days too late rather than screeding on time, Patching honeycombs rather than vibrating, etc. Fiber mesh visible on the exposed surface? Not a good idea in the long term.
I agree. Ive done concrete work all my life, talk about working two times harder then you need to, also grinding back down so far that you see the fiber mesh, well that is just stupid. and these guys you have rolling the air out and scaping the side walls of your form kinda defeat the purpose of the top coat, and then adding the agg on top of a spray coat is also a wast of time, add you agg first, then your slurey mix, use a vibrator to get rid or the air pockets. and why are you leaving so much excess concrete on the form then grinding it down flush, use a trowel and level it down.
You don't screed, or vibrate, when you do GFRC with sprayed face coat. The roller gets bubbles out instead (vibrating would cause face coat to fall off vertical walls). That said, I found that if you wait about 2 hours after pouring, you can scrape the excess concrete off the bottom in a similar way to screeding, so its even with the walls, which eliminates most of the grinding after the fact.
As a DYI and an initial investment of a few things, I would have been happy with this end result if I did it myself; I'm not experienced with this type of work by any means. That being said, it does a great deal to get further advice and opinions from people who work with concrete and such because I hate unnecessary work, using wrong materials and making pointless mistake because of lack of research. If I needed one small top, I wouldn't bother and go with marble. This would work investment wise If you needed lots. There are some smart people on here.
I agree
doing it by hand, you would never get the top as straight as that melamine board ...ever, I don't care who you are
Way overkill on the labor. Just pour it 1 1/2" thick and float it. No reason for the insulation or the grinding on the bottom. Also no need for lifts, all that trouble and he still had air bubbles. Just pour it all at once. You are gonna have to grind it anyway.
Thought the same thing. A ton of work and there were still air pockets he had to fill, grind and sand.
ArtisanTony Yup. Enough vibrations would have removed more pockets anyway
ArtisanTony float it??
ArtisanTony brother I couldn't agree more!!! but to probably justify the 10,000 what this cost have to make it last a couple of weeks
Gabe C h
I don't like that the glass fiber shows through on this... eeeww.
dequinox But who doesn’t like fiberglass in their food?! Lol
The fiberglass is re-fi reinforcement-fiber. Instead, the other option is re-bar; reinforcement iron bars and that won't show cuz it's buried in the slab.
They sprayed the concrete first so this wouldn't happen but obviously didn't do a thick enough layer or pushed the "lifts"(lol he kept calling layers of concrete "lifts" it's nonsense) too hard into the first layer without the fiber. It shouldn't have showed.
Luckily, it's not yours! I would probably use re-bar or something similar, myself.
@@Allbbrz The glass fibres are not supposed to show, that's the whole point of spraying a face coat with NO fibres in it, but they screwed it up...
Absolutely OUTSTANDING!!!!! Thank you for sharing this, and the know how these guys possess is mind boggling.
7:58 Kevin picks up hammer to test strength. Hahah!
I flinched at that moment. No, Kevin no! 🤣
Will you mount the sink under the countertop ? Is it not too rough fot the silicon to make a watertight fit ??
Being this labor-intensive, it had to be an expensive counter-top, then they leave some cheapo $50 stove in place from the second-hand store!
My parents had the same range that they got as a wedding present in 1968 until they passed in 16' and 17'.
The same 1960's dryer that came with the house too. They're simple machines so he just fixed it when it broke. I have had the same dryer for 15 years. It was free and broken when I got it.
@@MMGJ10 yeah, the guy's going for a certain look here. Not sure if concrete is needed, but it certainly doesn't hurt. Most people would have gutted that kitchen and replaced it all with crappy modern looking plastic and particle board with space-age appliances and dramatic lighting. I appreciate this guy's aesthetic. That stove can be kept going forever.
This is a trend that was mercifully brief. It will probably be around in West Virginia or other places where the mullet still exists but fortunately not prevalent.
i believe it will crack if someone lay on it or heavy weight in the middle ,You must put support in the mold (metal mash screen/bars /wires...)
the fiberglass gives it strength and replaces the need for steel
I bet the neighbours love all this noise when its dark outside! The finished product looks great
Watching this makes me never want a concrete countertop.
It's not too hard, I made one in two days of work. Look up easier videos
Look up Michael builds videos on his version of it. Much easier
There's a better way than the method shown - build in place with snap off edges. No seams, as it's all one piece.
Yeah, why buy something that you have to reseal every year???? Getting good Granite that does not require sealing is way better and much less effort.
Bagsy lol not beyond the ability of most people ? Most? Do you honestly believe that? Are you new to this planet?
Love this show, you are the best!!!!!!!!
neat video, the mid running advert ruined it though
I do like that peel method for cleaning up the silicon. That's seems better than taping.
I've seen armatures on youtube do it more easily and efficiently and get a better result with waaaay less work.
What's an armature?
Mark OnTheBlueRidge perfect reply...
Mark OnTheBlueRidge You’re awesome
Do you let the concrete harden before adding another layer?
Note:
Counter top "thickness" or edge can be 1.25" 1.5" and even 2" like in the video. BE SURE TO CHECK THIS! If you try and replace a countertop that's 1.25" with a 2" edge you will not be able to open your top drawers or doors on the cabinets because of the lip that normally hides the contact point between the countertop and the cabinets. However in this video the countertop did not have this because it was compensated with the overhang to the countertop. The standard for most cabinets have an overall depth of 24" with an overhang of 1" leaving most people with a 25" deep countertop in most cases THIS CAN EFFECT HOW YOUR APPLIANCES OPEN, so be sure to check that as well. If there is no overhang on your countertop it will look bad because then you can see the countertop meeting with the cabinets.
Your welcome.
I like the glass and sea shells! awesome!
Lol @7:59 Kevin just picks up a hammer and starts hitting it...
Yeah, that was funny. I could feel the contractor puckering his sphincter.
I almost died
I learned a lot from this very straightforward and thorough video, but would have like to learn about possibly adding color to the concrete mix . Is that added in another discussion, video or online article- please drop a link if so. many thanks.
'We did such a terrible job we're now going to cover the entire counter with a coat of cement to hide it all'...lol..
🤣
Any alternative suggestions for those who do not have a cement sprayer?
those counters look great but it's so labour intensive it must cost a fortune for a concrete counter instead of granite or something you just buy does anyone agree?
that pure white concrete countertop looks sheek. I will work on that. if you really want to make one..first work on a small square concrete countertop. get an idea what it takes to make one. the only issue is the waiting game..for it to completely dry and harden
+adrian bourke Concrete is cheaper than Granite and gives a much more consistent pattern. We just finished our Kitchen and were quoted $75/ft2 for Concrete and the cheapest Granite was $90/ft2 not a huge savings. 90% of the cost is pure labor, so if you make it yourself it's super cheap
+linkinprk1981 hi I really like the job but here in ireland you can buy faux granite or other type counters for smaller money again I'm not knocking the job just thought it was quite labour intensive thanks for the feedback it's ten years since I done any work in the States hope to come back soon
+linkinprk1981 well congrats on the kitchen. and yeah labor is where all the money is. that's where they get your hard earned money
+faheemthedream2007 Way to much labor. Agree
A couple of tips, wear gloves when handling acetone, it can burn your skin and if you put the form on saw horses to begin with you can vibrate more of the form to get rid of air bubbles and save yourself work filling holes
There are much easier ways with better results.
+jay west now would be the perfect time to point out the "easier ways" with "better results". For a DIYer with minimal experience, equipment and budget, the advice in the video is spot on. It doesn't get much easier than that.
I do think they should have taken another 30 seconds to show that molding available at any lumber supply shop attached to the inside of the form can be used to create professional-looking edge contours.
+jay west yeah like not doing it yourself and buying one instead, right..
+Joe Martins keep a foam form inside between two layers of concrete to make it lighter. it's multiple inches thick concrete, don't need fiber glass reinforcement. take your orbital sander to the side of the form and use it to vibrate your form to remove air bubbles.
mine was only 3ft by 6 ft square but still, seems a lot easier then what they did.....
@@heehaw316 The reinforcement is to help mitigate future cracking if I am not mistaken. That is how I have seen it explained in other videos.
When 2 D&D guys and a dude thats never played make a concrete countertop…. ‘Random orbital sander appears’ brought me to that thought! LOL
looks like grave in kitchen
excellent work, resulting perfect I vote 100% quality
"How to Build Custom Concrete Countertops" But doesn't tell us what the ingredients are, or the amounts... "some sand, cement, and a polymer"....jeez thanks.
exactly!!
youtube Warped Concrete Coffee Table, hopefully that will help
Home Depot for a couple of bags of 5000 PSI concrete, some #3 or 4 bar, melamine and a trowel. Rent a vibrator to kill the air bubbles. Concrete expressions has a spray on concrete release. Build your forms and you are done!
You don't need to mix your own concrete from the bottom up to build things out of concrete. Pre-mixed bags where you only need to add water are pretty cheaply available. Creating things out of a material and creating the material are two different things.
If you want to learn how to sew, you don't need to be able to create your own fabrics.
ua-cam.com/video/huekC7uYA8M/v-deo.html
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