Uncle Bjørn doesn't recommend it and I don't recomend it either. The thing is, it's the most destructive thing you can do to your battery. They don't like high power output while very cold and don't like the regeneration while cold. If you want to destroy your battery as fast as possible, you do that regularly. The power limits of Tesla and other companies don't protect from battery damage(extreme degradation) from this jolo manoeuvre. I have proof to that claim. Ove Kröger German Tesla expert(T&T Emobility - UA-cam) read out hundreds of Tesla battery's and checked degradation, he noticed extreme degradation for the ones that were hammered. (the best video just recently with brake damage from extreme hammering as well) And extremely low degradation for the ones that were treated very well. He is doing this for years now. And his friend(Holger Laudeley - lithium-ion super expert, he basically talks to his battery's ^^ and orderd a 140kWh Model S plaid which he will drive in Laudecrous mode) conforms this as well. So 100% the battery will take extreme damage with this 100%, don't do it ever if possible. Greetings from Germany.
@@abraxastulammo9940 I can ask him, because he will not need 1000+hp anyway. ^^ Laudecrouse mode means that he will drive the fastest car in the world behind a truck that goes 80km/h on the Autobahn, to go as gently as possible for the battery.(low power output) Then he will proceed to charge the car from his solar roof with about 3000watts, also as gently as possible for the battery.(low power input) His Teslas have astonishing 1% degradation, over years and many km. 1 percent! This is proof that it really matters how you treat your EV, not just Teslas. And that the Power limits are not nearly enough to protect from extreme degradation. "jolo manoeuvre" -> not good for the environment and your wallet. This is basically why it would be very important to have the battery temperature displayed, !all the time! How are we supposed to look after the most important thing in the car, without that information? ICE cars have the engine temp, why do most EVs don't have battery temp. displayed? Porsch does it, and they know why. For a sports car it's super critical to display that. It is built for hammering, but like ICE car, only if things are warm!! Also, we need manual after burner start ASAP. With that we can get the optimal battery temperature as soon as possible, ready for degradation free hammering. Optimus prime had it, with "max. battery power". We need that for every EV ASAP!
@@abraxastulammo9940 He takes very much pleasure out of taking care of his battery's. Every human is a little different. I can't imagine driving around like that with my Y next year ether. (already thinking about getting the software acceleration boost) Where is the fun in that? But if it makes him happy, why not. And we got all the juicy data out of it, because of it. So kudos to Holger. But I will try to go gently while the battery is cold, planning to keep the car for 20+ years, so it would really matter in the long run.
The "old" first generation Leaf do split power if you heat while charging. Those from 2013 (Gen 2) have output from the battery to the heater, and are not able to take extra from the charger.
Hey Björn (sorry German keyboard), the charge limit is a well known and aknowledged bug by Polestar. It usually happens when you are to quick to tap. Try sliding it slowly to the desired amount. That usually helped mine (still in the workshop...third week and counting).
Should the car not have a more user-friendly way of heating the battery, say through the menu? All these new cars have heated batteries so I am surprised it gets so cold in the first place.
As you said, definitely not recommended at all, but in a hurry definitely is the best way, as a heater would take years to warm up. Li-ion batteries simply can't put so much performance in the cold. But if you try so, there is a chance that lithium plating in the cathode can occur, damaging the battery permanently. This happens when charging below freezing as we all know, but also when draining at very high power. EV manufacturers allow some regen below freezing as well as high power output, because it is though that short bursts as (driving demands) won't put much stress, but better of be gentle with cold batteries and stick to the battery heater. As always, batteryuniversity.com will throw some light. That's even without counting extra wear an tear on gearboxes, bearings and diffs.
I have 33 km/h at home constantly (10kW), so it should be pretty close to 3,3 km/h = 1 kW. But I don’t know if the km/h showing when charging depends on your driving history? If not, 129/3,3 should be around 39 kW. But not sure if you can just assume that.
This will be fun to try with the family in the car, guess it ends with kids throwing up, and wify a bit angry 😅 . But another thing so it's a 150KW charger right? should we be happy with the speed at approxmatly 32Kw at 0 degree? or even worse only 11Kw when cold?
There has been speculation based on cellcount released that the pack is a 3p 108s pack in the Polestar 2. If that is the case the car is already limiting charging rate at 83% with 4.07 volts pr cell. This seems a bit overly carefull. The videos Bjørn has of his Tesla model 3 charging shows it's 96 cell battery limiting when it reaches pack voltage during charging of 400v exactly. That's 4.16v/cell and quite normal if still a bit carefull.
Btw, my e-up! charges faster than that. I get 38kW. My charging stops are usually 10 minutes and in that time I get over 6 kWh. The silly thing is that the car only has 18kWh battery or less so even a deep charge from 30% to 80% is only 15 minutes. (9kWh). Running 12 kWh/100km means charging speed is 316 km/h!
bit of a noob question here ... but the 6 A at the bottom of the charging screen can be increased (or decreased) ... 1. would increasing it to say, 20+ help speed up charge times? 2. why would you want to keep it at the 6A setting if you are going to high-speed chargers, home chargers etc.? Thanks.
Very good video we need a Universal app for evs to tell temperature and charging speed etc can’t wait for can ze to support ze50. I want to know hidden info .
The stupid thing is this high load causes losses in battery heating it, and the regen causes some more losses and heats it a bit more. Result is the regen limit disappeared very quickly. But, when you fastcharge the car refuses to let the charger do the same type of power-dump into battery even though it would have heated it up creating same result. The little loss from fastcharger would be perfectly acceptable to get the battery up to temperature. Should be no need for heating circuits in the battery, it creates it's own heat...
It also wears the battery. There is a reason all those engineers at every ev company don't warm the battery by power dumping it. By your logic we also just child charge with 200 kw to 100%, but we realistically can't
Guys, please dont do that to your cars! And even, when you think: ‚I dont give a sh*t. Its just leasing or something!‘ There will be a customer after you and he will have no fun with this car anymore! Please, Please, Please!!!
Why do you car people say 230 miles is expectable it’s not don’t speck for the rest of us. It may be expectable for you but I bet not for most of us. 400+ is expectable for me and bet for most and range would be real world range not what they say the range is. So please stop saying expectable range tray to make it out it all we need it’s just not. Do you agree with my statement. Yes or know. I would like to then chose to be able to drive at lest 200 miles one way and 200 miles back without having to plug in.
@@bjornnyland one simple reason I would like to know that any time of the day or night I would like to know that could drive a minimum 200 one way and 200 back without having to plug in. Let me ask you a question before electric cars came along would you buy a car that had a max range of 250 or lest in bad driving conditions you would of thought they having a joke. If the answer is no and you are been honest with your self. They why do now think it is acceptable.
Self charging Toyota... Hahaha.. that comment was priceless. Tanks 🤣
Fossils in general should be modify to electric at least.
Inductive charging - it seems we're in the future already!
Nissan have that as extra in many years.
Uncle Bjørn doesn't recommend it and I don't recomend it either. The thing is, it's the most destructive thing you can do to your battery. They don't like high power output while very cold and don't like the regeneration while cold. If you want to destroy your battery as fast as possible, you do that regularly. The power limits of Tesla and other companies don't protect from battery damage(extreme degradation) from this jolo manoeuvre. I have proof to that claim. Ove Kröger German Tesla expert(T&T Emobility - UA-cam) read out hundreds of Tesla battery's and checked degradation, he noticed extreme degradation for the ones that were hammered. (the best video just recently with brake damage from extreme hammering as well) And extremely low degradation for the ones that were treated very well. He is doing this for years now. And his friend(Holger Laudeley - lithium-ion super expert, he basically talks to his battery's ^^ and orderd a 140kWh Model S plaid which he will drive in Laudecrous mode) conforms this as well. So 100% the battery will take extreme damage with this 100%, don't do it ever if possible.
Greetings from Germany.
@@abraxastulammo9940 I can ask him, because he will not need 1000+hp anyway. ^^ Laudecrouse mode means that he will drive the fastest car in the world behind a truck that goes 80km/h on the Autobahn, to go as gently as possible for the battery.(low power output) Then he will proceed to charge the car from his solar roof with about 3000watts, also as gently as possible for the battery.(low power input) His Teslas have astonishing 1% degradation, over years and many km. 1 percent! This is proof that it really matters how you treat your EV, not just Teslas. And that the Power limits are not nearly enough to protect from extreme degradation. "jolo manoeuvre" -> not good for the environment and your wallet.
This is basically why it would be very important to have the battery temperature displayed, !all the time! How are we supposed to look after the most important thing in the car, without that information? ICE cars have the engine temp, why do most EVs don't have battery temp. displayed? Porsch does it, and they know why. For a sports car it's super critical to display that. It is built for hammering, but like ICE car, only if things are warm!!
Also, we need manual after burner start ASAP. With that we can get the optimal battery temperature as soon as possible, ready for degradation free hammering.
Optimus prime had it, with "max. battery power". We need that for every EV ASAP!
@@abraxastulammo9940 He takes very much pleasure out of taking care of his battery's. Every human is a little different. I can't imagine driving around like that with my Y next year ether. (already thinking about getting the software acceleration boost) Where is the fun in that? But if it makes him happy, why not. And we got all the juicy data out of it, because of it. So kudos to Holger.
But I will try to go gently while the battery is cold, planning to keep the car for 20+ years, so it would really matter in the long run.
The "old" first generation Leaf do split power if you heat while charging. Those from 2013 (Gen 2) have output from the battery to the heater, and are not able to take extra from the charger.
Hey Björn (sorry German keyboard), the charge limit is a well known and aknowledged bug by Polestar. It usually happens when you are to quick to tap. Try sliding it slowly to the desired amount. That usually helped mine (still in the workshop...third week and counting).
Should the car not have a more user-friendly way of heating the battery, say through the menu? All these new cars have heated batteries so I am surprised it gets so cold in the first place.
As you said, definitely not recommended at all, but in a hurry definitely is the best way, as a heater would take years to warm up. Li-ion batteries simply can't put so much performance in the cold. But if you try so, there is a chance that lithium plating in the cathode can occur, damaging the battery permanently. This happens when charging below freezing as we all know, but also when draining at very high power.
EV manufacturers allow some regen below freezing as well as high power output, because it is though that short bursts as (driving demands) won't put much stress, but better of be gentle with cold batteries and stick to the battery heater. As always, batteryuniversity.com will throw some light.
That's even without counting extra wear an tear on gearboxes, bearings and diffs.
Wow good dem of how clever it is for Tesla to start heating the battery enroute to a supercharger.
Do other companies so this?
Something with 3 in it...🤔, sounds like IX3.
It had been fun to see the Corsa-E, the Lexus UXe & the new Citroën eC4 also.
Hello Björn, excuse me for my broken English. you've tested the Polestar from all angles. What is your objective conclusion on this VE
Thank you
Yellowing is normal on the routers when the car sits for a while, comes off as soon as u drive the car and apply brake.
Happy travels with wifey!!!
What? New video? Thumbs up.
This is just a thought, when you tried to increase the charge level to 100% you was charging, would it be that you cannot change it whilst charging?
I will do this to warm up the petrol tank in our non-self-charging Toyota :-)
Please test the mercedes EQV. Pls also do the artic circle test with it and also all the other tests like charging and speed and whatever. 🙏🏼
I have 33 km/h at home constantly (10kW), so it should be pretty close to 3,3 km/h = 1 kW.
But I don’t know if the km/h showing when charging depends on your driving history? If not, 129/3,3 should be around 39 kW.
But not sure if you can just assume that.
The point of this video is to teaching how to damage the battery in the shorter time possible. Great!!!
This will be fun to try with the family in the car, guess it ends with kids throwing up, and wify a bit angry 😅 . But another thing so it's a 150KW charger right? should we be happy with the speed at approxmatly 32Kw at 0 degree? or even worse only 11Kw when cold?
There has been speculation based on cellcount released that the pack is a 3p 108s pack in the Polestar 2. If that is the case the car is already limiting charging rate at 83% with 4.07 volts pr cell. This seems a bit overly carefull. The videos Bjørn has of his Tesla model 3 charging shows it's 96 cell battery limiting when it reaches pack voltage during charging of 400v exactly. That's 4.16v/cell and quite normal if still a bit carefull.
Waiting for your test of the MG5 SW EV.
Var du i Tromsø i dag? Synes jeg så deg på Jekta
Btw, my e-up! charges faster than that. I get 38kW. My charging stops are usually 10 minutes and in that time I get over 6 kWh. The silly thing is that the car only has 18kWh battery or less so even a deep charge from 30% to 80% is only 15 minutes. (9kWh). Running 12 kWh/100km means charging speed is 316 km/h!
I think you need to set the charge limit before starting to charge.
next car from imove? Xpeng P3?! 😱
Mustang Mach-E will supposedly have automatic pre-conditioning for the battery before arriving at a station. Polestar 2 should have this too.
It does it now since a SW update.
Does anyone know which other manufacturers signed up for the Google os system?
I think the PSA group (Peugeot, Citroén, etc) has for future EV's.
You have the Amps set at 6A. Increase to 32A for fastest charging.
That's for AC charging and has nothing to do with DC charging.
@@bjornnyland thanks for that, I’m new to all this stuff!
You can’t change the charge limit if you are charging
bit of a noob question here ... but the 6 A at the bottom of the charging screen can be increased (or decreased) ...
1. would increasing it to say, 20+ help speed up charge times?
2. why would you want to keep it at the 6A setting if you are going to high-speed chargers, home chargers etc.?
Thanks.
No, this is for AC only.
Very good video we need a Universal app for evs to tell temperature and charging speed etc can’t wait for can ze to support ze50. I want to know hidden info .
On the charging screen is that 6A the level 2 charge rate setting?
Bjørn confirmed in a reply to another comment that it was for AC charging.
Don't worry about the audio Bjorn it's old school!
Ain't the charging curve slower after 80%
why the number of subscriptions are stuck in 197K, and not moving?
It's moving up, but slowly. For you, it only shows every 1k, but for me as a creator, I see in 1 subscriber precision.
The stupid thing is this high load causes losses in battery heating it, and the regen causes some more losses and heats it a bit more. Result is the regen limit disappeared very quickly.
But, when you fastcharge the car refuses to let the charger do the same type of power-dump into battery even though it would have heated it up creating same result.
The little loss from fastcharger would be perfectly acceptable to get the battery up to temperature. Should be no need for heating circuits in the battery, it creates it's own heat...
In theory, yes. But as you saw, we were only getting 11 kW in the beginning. That's not fast enough to build up heat.
It also wears the battery. There is a reason all those engineers at every ev company don't warm the battery by power dumping it.
By your logic we also just child charge with 200 kw to 100%, but we realistically can't
What is the size of the polyester 2 touch screen?
11.2"
Bjorn you’ve copied my strategy 😂 I do jojo before charging my 4 years old 30kwh leaf in winter!!!
Guys, please dont do that to your cars! And even, when you think: ‚I dont give a sh*t. Its just leasing or something!‘ There will be a customer after you and he will have no fun with this car anymore! Please, Please, Please!!!
Can't imagine buying over a model 3 or Y.
5:40 must be using the same calculations that the windows file copy dialog uses...
My guess is the Xpeng G3 🤔
Or BMW i3
or ID.3 ... scratch that iMove doesn't rent those out. --> Nissan Leaf Tekna 30 kWh :)
Divide the charging speed with 2,5 to get the kW 🤷🏼♂️
Lol, at the start of the video the central car screen shows 11:XX, after returning it shows 23:3x
Another bug? Or was Björn busy all day? 😂
I switched between 12 and 24 hour clock.
@@bjornnyland did not see that one coming!
Qwik mafs
Bugstar 2 ;p
That UI should be banned with a law
So you could drive fast when the temp is cold to warm up the battery without causing any issues.
Why do you car people say 230 miles is expectable it’s not don’t speck for the rest of us. It may be expectable for you but I bet not for most of us. 400+ is expectable for me and bet for most and range would be real world range not what they say the range is. So please stop saying expectable range tray to make it out it all we need it’s just not. Do you agree with my statement. Yes or know. I would like to then chose to be able to drive at lest 200 miles one way and 200 miles back without having to plug in.
No
@@bjornnyland one simple reason I would like to know that any time of the day or night I would like to know that could drive a minimum 200 one way and 200 back without having to plug in.
Let me ask you a question before electric cars came along would you buy a car that had a max range of 250 or lest in bad driving conditions you would of thought they having a joke. If the answer is no and you are been honest with your self. They why do now think it is acceptable.
1st
Lol such a kiddy thing🤣🤣