This has to be one of the best if not THE best videos on how to troubleshoot fuel systems. Only someone who is selfless takes this much time and puts this much detail into their videos! You just earned a subscriber. I can’t thank you enough. My son and I are troubleshooting our 98 K1500 no start after rebuilding the top half of the engine. Again, THANK YOU!!!
Thanks for taking a big problem (3500lbs of truck that don't start/move) and turning into a small problem...By using LOGIC and very simple tools to say the least..I call schematics "road maps" you need them to figure out where you are and how and how to get un-lost..simple! Thank you job well done!
Hey THANK YOU...i was having some issues with my truck, 97 Chevy k1500 and was thinking I had to change the fuel pump...I didn't do all the test that you did but went right to the parts store and purchased the relay....started right up...You saved me time and money...great video...thanks again!
I always hate searching you tube for videos cause so many are poorly done. You made an awesome Video. Well thought out and good video quality. I really like that you give the Schematic and explain what you are doing at each step. Again great video and very helpful.
Excellent video my Tahoe was doing the same thing, used a wire and it crunk right up. Used a extra fuel block now my truck is running good!!!! Thanks....
Best instructional video EVER! I am restoring a 1987 Chevy K5 Blazer and this video is the reason I was able to drive it from the storage yard to my house. Thank you so much for this video.
Took me 2 days figure it out, replaced ICM, and fuelcut/ oil pressure switch no issues since. Wish woulda found your channel, but was a good learn of my trucks systems for me.
Many thanks for the down to earth, old school troubleshooting methods, even though my problems have to do with my fuel tank switching valve on my 87 Silverado, you've given me some food for thought about what else to do. I hope you might have other videos that might relate to that issue as well.
This is an Excellent ! Video and should give anyone watching this series a no fail fix to this particular common problem. Its a Great explanation on how to interpret a schematic for this circuit . It shows how to confirm a good ground using a test light which many people have trouble understanding a ground circuit and its role . My father-in-Law has a 1990 Silverado with this exact problem . I Have Subscribed ! Thank You !
Thank you for your thorough review... In case it helps, simply using another relay with the same value and swapping it out may be faster... If the horn relay is the same, then switch it (sound the horn) and test to see if that is all that is needed... I am sure you know that too. Rafael
Mr Robinson Thank you for making a Retied Vet very happy. The question I ask, can you please show how you made that test light cause here in Germany real test lights can't be found thanks again for how you showed me so much
I'm glad his truck started but I wish it was something else!!! That's not our problem and this is the best video I've seen yet because he sticks to the basic equipment that DIYer can afford...that's why most DIYer don't take them into the shop, they can't afford 6-900 dollars of damage. Our car hasnt run for 3 weeks now, something to do with the security and we cannot find the problem!!! I was looking for new troubleshooting and some of this was new but not enough to help yet..But NICE
EXCELLENT..I love your style, casual, informative and proper technique without all the tech toys. I've seen volumes of car repair videos but this is one of the first ones I have actually watched intently from start to finish fully satisfied. What makes your teaching style a perfect fit is that you troubleshoot with the same resources that I have-a digital multimeter. a test light and your trouble-shooting flow process which gets us down to the actual problem & solution. Beats running back & forth from the auto parts store just buying parts. Lastly you reflect on repair as a whole and consider what collateral concerns should be addressed with the repair. I think its awesome how you tied the Fuel Pump Relay to the Oil Pressure Switch and referenced all to the schematics, Thank you
Awesome young man:))) Another easy test along with Your spark check would be to shoot a "Tiny bit" of brake/either fluid which will most times confirm a brief start:))
I have to agree! you have got talent! One question tho, when you jump 87 to 30, how do you not get an electric shock? especially that its a high current carrying system, as you said. Is that because the chassis is a better ground than you? If so, would you get a shock if 30 was faulty, and hence not grounded?
Hey great video. I have a problem with my 02 s10 v6, previous owner rigged up the fuel pump connector. I ordered a new fuel pump with the square connector ,it has ABC D on the pins, I have purple, gray, black, and black and white wires, on my chassis harness, which were different colors on the connector. I haven’t been able to find any good tutorials or info on what goes where.
Mr Robinson I have a1995 suburban it cranks no fuel no spark and and when I turn on key switch the dash doesn't turn on as well any idea where I should start looking I would really appreciate it thanks you make the most helpful videos thank you
fuseable links, fuse for computer ignition B, short to ground orange wire somewhere, orange should be hot all times even when key is off, it feeds FP relay and PCM and more
Just did a tbi to carb swap and trying to figure out what wire to splice into to get the fuel pump to run, as of now when you turn the key the engine runs for a minute and then shuts off, cycle the key off and back on and it runs again for a minute and then shuts off, I was told to send power to the purple and white wire off the four wire plug off the old distributor , no luck. Running an hei distributor. Thanks for your help in advance. Great video
Mr Robinson great videos I'm still having a problem with my 95 chevy pickup my fuel injectors quit spraying again and the truck shut off on me again I did your diagnosis and changed the fuel pump relay and the oil pressure switch it ran beautiful but today it shut off again while driving it what should I do next
That's the first thing I do on GM no start if everything sounds normal cranking use throttle body cleaner directly into the intake boot see if it starts.
Im having an issue with my 89 chevy. I wont start.. crank sounds good but i don’t think there is any fuel coming from the injectors... i can hear the fuel pump when i turn the key to the on position.
I got an 89 tbi injection chevy 350 and man inpray someone has had the same problem i put new fule pump in new relay for fule pump and fuse new throttle position sensor oxygen sensor and fule pump regulator and when u push the throttle to open throttle it slowly falls on its face and now i went and was thinking it may have been the hose that gose on fule pump so i pulled it down tried to put the other one i had because i thought iay got a bad one i put it all back together now the fule pump wont kick on help pls
Goodl lesson in troubleshooting, but kinda the long way around the barn. First thing to do after cranking it and seeing a no start would be to push in the valve on the fuel rail a little and see if any fuel squirted out. = You know you do or don't have a problem with fuel delivery in about 5 seconds!
Thank you much brother I didn't get to see the end of the video but I'm guessing it was maybe not the relay and the that's what I needed to watch is what part in the distributor actually might go bad but maybe in a relay I guess I'll watch the end of the video
howzit it brother hope you can help me.today I'm working on a 93 Silverado 5.7 throttle body.so I pull the trouble codes manually first I had a map sensor and a knock sensor and a temperature sensor I replace them all today.the truck will not start now and stay running.if I unplug the temperature center it will start up but then dial after a minute or 2.what do you think my problem is the ECM or the Spark Control in the distributor
Great video, I have a question. If when check resistance and it shows 0 does this mean a bad or a faulty fuel pump? I did all the checks like you said I have power at the relay I even applied power to pin going the fuel pump but I did not hear the pump turn on. So is time to drop the gas tank?
So... what do you do if there is no constant power on 87 but 87 goes to the ECM B on my truck and I tested the positive side of the fuse and had power there....?
+Wilson Revelle If you have no power to 87 of the relay ...you can only have one problem . A "Bad Connection" in that wire for 87 . ie..broken wire , corroded battery terminals.
I have a 93 chevy Cheyenne 4.3 liter truck with a no start problem it started off not starting all the time very intermittent now no start at all....replaced plugs,wires,cap,rotor,Coil and computer also replaced the filters on the injectors,outings and gaskets.I'm getting fuel to the injectors but that's as far as it goes I have no power to the 20 amp fuse in the engine compartment next step is to cut into the harness and start tracing wires.....any suggestions it's driving me nuts.
Great Video, I have a question - I have a 1991 K1500 5.7. I sent the ECM for a rebuild/Check, the individual said he change the circuit board. After reinstalling the ECM the truck will not start no fuel. No fuel to the TBI, checked the fuel pump relay to ensure its powering the 5 volt. The relay is 14089936 A (orange wire/ECM) C (Red wire/Prime) D (Control Power Green/white-computer) E (Gray wire/Fuel Pump) F (Black/White-ground wire). Jumped A to E fuel pump does not run. Can I assume that the computer is bad since it was worked on? The truck was running prior to the computer being sent off and nothings else was touched. Trying to determine if a replacement computer is required.
I have a 97 Express Van with a 5.7L and TBI. It has been running fine for a year since purchased used. It has recently developed an intermittent problem and it will not start. The battery is good, cranks fast. Fuel pump relay is good. I checked fuel pressure, which is a bit low (54psi) however when it runs it is smooth with no stumbling and good power. Spraying starter fluid into the intake causes it to fire immediately. Without the starter fluid it cranks fast and never does not fire at all, not a bit. The problem has never occurred while driving only after stopping and turning off the engine. The issue must be no pulse is making it to the injectors, yet it is an intermittent issue. I am wondering if you have any ideas on what else I should check/replace. Thanks in advance if you respond. regards, Matt
Do a powerbalance test on it to see if it's a dead miss on cyl 1. Did you make sure you had spark on cyl1? It might be a fuel problem (injector.. etc..)
Hello Robinson, what is the name of the sensor that is in the middle of spark plug wires 1 and 3 where you put the screwdriver to test the spark, the one that is from a single cable and what is it for? , you help me with that. thanks and very good video.
My old fuel pump works ok as a pump but the fuel level sender is the problem. They don't sell just the fuel level sender...you gotta buy the whole pump. Auto parts stores sell them at about $250 but Amazon for around $105 including taxes and shipping. But then you have to modify the connector..so some minor rewiring is necessary. They say it's more reliable but I think it has more to do with making it harder to put in an official Chevy part should you be so inclined in the future.
I'll save you 20 minutes. It's usually the fusible link on the left hand side of the firewall. At the dealership we call it... The green wire. Not because that's the color of the wire on the outside. But because, that's the color of the wire on the inside.
Question, I checked the ground and its good, the hot and it was good. I jumpered the hot and pump and no pump. I also turned the key and no light at the control. WTF?? I replaced the pump only (it was all autozone had) and drove for 700 miles before it quit again. Any ideas?
Hello there. I've got a question. Why did you not borrow a relay from the start? I knew your problem in this case from the beginning. Sometimes old school is a good teacher. Often, there are other options to test the circuit because time wasted is money spent. The relay is very cheap. If you spent more than an hour on schematics, resistance and other factors, I think that doesn't make sense. Not denying your credibility and I can appreciate your knowledge of circuits. I have a bad sensor causing my van to have fuel starvation. The pulse is too wide. But my fuel pressure is good. And I'm quite sure there is no back pressure in my exhaust. With starting fluid, she starts and runs but sometimes she hiccups. Plugs are good, lifetime wires, cap inspected and rotory button changed. Would you have an opinion to what causes these symptoms? Oh and we replaced the ECM also. I would really appreciate any feedback from anyone because my ASE mechanic and I are stumped! Thank you.
You should be a teacher bro. You know how you get what the teachers lesson is about and all of a sudden your just lost? From start to finish definitely I understand explanation step by step. 👍
Good video 100% right on. Now do you know if my 93 GMC truck has a relay like this one you just fixed??? Now I’m not having trouble but I would like to know. Thanks! RJ 😊👍🏼
Excellent tutorial. Unfortunately pump does not run when jumpered. Reads 0 ohms across 87-30, so either the pump is bad or the harness is shorted. Is there a way to get to the connector to the pump without dropping the tank?
I would replace your Trucks "Fuel Filter & "Ground Straps" which are fairly easy to do. Besides causing OTHER electrical intemittent problems ...if you Ground Straps are bad ...the Fuel Pump will NOT run.
My problem is that I'm not getting enough fuel pressure. There's some gas coming through but there isn't enough voltage getting to the fuel pump to pump enough gas to get the engine to fully turn over. Just replaced the whole pump too thinking that was the problem because the last pump was actually starting to melt. I noticed the Fuel Pump Relay isn't making full contact some times and has shut off the truck a number of times because of it (usually when it's been running for over an hour or just really hot). Been getting engine misfires for years as well. Could this be from just the bad/spotty contact with the relay that caused the fuel pump to melt and possibly throw off fuel timings for all these engine misfires?
fuel pressure is fine spark is fine any chance it could be the distributor, gas came shooting out of the pressure cap when pressed as a friend turned the ignition over
85 chevy caprice v6 throttle body injections. My fuel pump does not turn on when attempt to start the car. We bypassed the fuel pump electrical line and it turns on. We changed the ignition control module, fuel pump relay and oil pressure switch . It's an obd 1 car and no check engine lights appear.
I would replace your Trucks "Fuel Filter & "Ground Straps" which are fairly easy to do. Besides causing OTHER electrical intemittent problems ...if you Ground Straps are bad ...the Fuel Pump will NOT run.
Beings you have a multimeter, start by checking the coil... :)BOTH ways by reversing the leads. A good one will show contunity BOTH ways. a BAD one will show contunity only one way... Theres a diode across the coil in the relay..
So the relay should have constant power and secondary power when the key is turned on ? My relay tested good it’s got constant power 12.60v. But the relay is not clicking when the key is turned on. When the key is turned on fuel pump is not running. All fuse are good. Ignition switch? Where is the relay control?
I would replace your Trucks "Ground Straps" which are faily easy to do. Beside other electrical intemittent problems ...if you Ground Straps are bad ...the Fuel Pump will NOT run.
all u had to do was open the gas cap and listen for the fuel pump to whiirrrr when you turn the key on. in order for the injectors to pulse though, there has to be a signal from the distributor module to the ECM, letting the computer know that there is spark, and to send pulse to injector for fuel.
That was an awesome video.could this be the same problem for my 94 gm sierra it will not shoot any fuel in carburator.we replaced fuel pump in fuel tank n still no progress...i would appreciate your opinion.and once again great video..
So I have a 94 and my relay is over on the firewall which pin in the relay plug do I jump to from the hot because I don't think it's the same as the 95 ?
I have an 89 Nissan Pathfinder. Could you possibly add more videos on Nissan 3.0L Vg30i. I dropped the idol stop solenoid down spark plug hole. I watched your video on timing belt thermostat and water pump replacement last summer and did the work myself since bad times left me without a mechanic. So any advise?
Why not just turn the key on and listen for the fuel pump to go to Prime my Tahoe is trouble in the morning only in the morning when it started for the first time it cranks and cranks and cranks sputters like it's only getting some fuel but not turning over and starting an answer about three or four tries the engine found he starts up from that point on for the rest of the day the car runs great starts right up and purrs like a kitten it's like there's something going on where I'm losing the prime overnight and the pump is having a problem repriming the two lines which I just had replaced along with a new filter and yes my fuel pump activates every time I turn the key on
so i get nothing out of my 2000 5.7 vortec untill i pour fuel down the throttle body after that it runs fine , so do you think it could be the 97a part of that relay?
I have a issue where i`m able to send a air hose down from the throttle body to the fuel filter (through the line of course) And.... It works just fine, Not getting gas however from the fuel line from the filter going to the throttle body, Checked fuel pump working fine, checked the line from the pump to the filter fine, just don't know why its doing what it is doing
So i jumped my fuel relay like you did at 18:18min on your video. fuel pump was going and tried to start the motor and stll didnt turn over did i miss something 1996 3500 5.7 chevy 1ton 4x4
This has to be one of the best if not THE best videos on how to troubleshoot fuel systems. Only someone who is selfless takes this much time and puts this much detail into their videos! You just earned a subscriber. I can’t thank you enough. My son and I are troubleshooting our 98 K1500 no start after rebuilding the top half of the engine. Again, THANK YOU!!!
Ppp
Thanks for taking a big problem (3500lbs of truck that don't start/move) and turning into a small problem...By using LOGIC and very simple tools to say the least..I call schematics "road maps" you need them to figure out where you are and how and how to get un-lost..simple!
Thank you job well done!
excellent video I've been ase-certified for 20 years and as many other people who don't hear it said you my friend should go and be an instructor
Hey THANK YOU...i was having some issues with my truck, 97 Chevy k1500 and was thinking I had to change the fuel pump...I didn't do all the test that you did but went right to the parts store and purchased the relay....started right up...You saved me time and money...great video...thanks again!
I always hate searching you tube for videos cause so many are poorly done. You made an awesome Video. Well thought out and good video quality. I really like that you give the Schematic and explain what you are doing at each step. Again great video and very helpful.
Excellent video my Tahoe was doing the same thing, used a wire and it crunk right up. Used a extra fuel block now my truck is running good!!!! Thanks....
Best instructional video EVER! I am restoring a 1987 Chevy K5 Blazer and this video is the reason I was able to drive it from the storage yard to my house. Thank you so much for this video.
Took me 2 days figure it out, replaced ICM, and fuelcut/ oil pressure switch no issues since.
Wish woulda found your channel, but was a good learn of my trucks systems for me.
Many thanks for the down to earth, old school troubleshooting methods, even though my problems have to do with my fuel tank switching valve on my 87 Silverado, you've given me some food for thought about what else to do. I hope you might have other videos that might relate to that issue as well.
This is an Excellent ! Video and should give anyone watching this series a no fail fix to this particular common problem. Its a Great explanation on how to interpret a schematic for this circuit . It shows how to confirm a good ground using a test light which many people have trouble understanding a ground circuit and its role . My father-in-Law has a 1990 Silverado with this exact problem . I Have Subscribed ! Thank You !
Thank you! Had the exact same problem on my 02. Your tutorial saved me a tow and mechanic fees.
Thank you, this got my 97 GMC Suburban 5.7 started, a crooked mechanic would have soaked me for a fuel pump!
Thank you for your thorough review... In case it helps, simply using another relay with the same value and swapping it out may be faster... If the horn relay is the same, then switch it (sound the horn) and test to see if that is all that is needed... I am sure you know that too. Rafael
He is really clear and understandable in all his explanations.
Excellent video. Relays do go like mine did on my GMC. Saves lowering tank and replacing pump only to find it was the relay.
Mr Robinson Thank you for making a Retied Vet very happy. The question I ask, can you please show how you made that test light cause here in Germany real test lights can't be found thanks again for how you showed me so much
Thanks amigo very good explanation now I know what is the problem with my chevy 94 long life to you my friend grasias thanks again
Many thanks. The video was very informational and easy to understand.
I like the fact that it was kept simple.
I'm glad his truck started but I wish it was something else!!! That's not our problem and this is the best video I've seen yet because he sticks to the basic equipment that DIYer can afford...that's why most DIYer don't take them into the shop, they can't afford 6-900 dollars of damage. Our car hasnt run for 3 weeks now, something to do with the security and we cannot find the problem!!! I was looking for new troubleshooting and some of this was new but not enough to help yet..But NICE
stumbling across this has given me new hope!!!!!
Thanks for the explanation. I really learn a lot, especially when you do the old school methods. May your New Year be a Good One.
Thank you so much for this video. You just save me so much time and money.. my issue was the relay..
Man thank for the video it was my relay to you just saved me a lot of time I'm in a wheelchair and do all my work by my self thanks so much
EXCELLENT..I love your style, casual, informative and proper technique without all the tech toys. I've seen volumes of car repair videos but this is one of the first ones I have actually watched intently from start to finish fully satisfied. What makes your teaching style a perfect fit is that you troubleshoot with the same resources that I have-a digital multimeter. a test light and your trouble-shooting flow process which gets us down to the actual problem & solution. Beats running back & forth from the auto parts store just buying parts. Lastly you reflect on repair as a whole and consider what collateral concerns should be addressed with the repair. I think its awesome how you tied the Fuel Pump Relay to the Oil Pressure Switch and referenced all to the schematics, Thank you
Thank you for your video, your narration makes it easy to understand and very helpful for doing the job myself, thanks again
Awesome young man:)))
Another easy test along with Your spark check would be to shoot a "Tiny bit" of brake/either fluid which will most times confirm a brief start:))
having the exact same issue on my 98 obs no start no fuel gonna try this troubleshooting
I have to agree! you have got talent! One question tho, when you jump 87 to 30, how do you not get an electric shock? especially that its a high current carrying system, as you said. Is that because the chassis is a better ground than you? If so, would you get a shock if 30 was faulty, and hence not grounded?
Hay that’s one of the best videos on UTube and this guy knows his stuff thanks you for be clear about ck before you give to the customer 👍👍👍
Hey great video. I have a problem with my 02 s10 v6, previous owner rigged up the fuel pump connector. I ordered a new fuel pump with the square connector ,it has ABC D on the pins, I have purple, gray, black, and black and white wires, on my chassis harness, which were different colors on the connector. I haven’t been able to find any good tutorials or info on what goes where.
Thank You for taking it all the way through the process
after you checked for spark and still mentioned doing this old school, i was expecting you to grab a can of starting fluid
Mr Robinson I have a1995 suburban it cranks no fuel no spark and and when I turn on key switch the dash doesn't turn on as well any idea where I should start looking I would really appreciate it thanks you make the most helpful videos thank you
fuseable links, fuse for computer ignition B, short to ground orange wire somewhere, orange should be hot all times even when key is off, it feeds FP relay and PCM and more
im just going into this with my vehicle and wanted to say thank you for such awesome info.
Just did a tbi to carb swap and trying to figure out what wire to splice into to get the fuel pump to run, as of now when you turn the key the engine runs for a minute and then shuts off, cycle the key off and back on and it runs again for a minute and then shuts off, I was told to send power to the purple and white wire off the four wire plug off the old distributor , no luck. Running an hei distributor. Thanks for your help in advance. Great video
Mr Robinson great videos I'm still having a problem with my 95 chevy pickup my fuel injectors quit spraying again and the truck shut off on me again I did your diagnosis and changed the fuel pump relay and the oil pressure switch it ran beautiful but today it shut off again while driving it what should I do next
I want to go to videos when you said weekend you're doing a good job thanks for all your help
That was awesome! Can you do a video on EST code 42 on 1989 Chevy 1500 pick up with a 350 engine? LOL Again that was awesome!
I'm glad to visit your page,you are different and easy please be continue.Thank you for your valuable times.
Thanks for the video! I'm going out and test the relay on my 1987 El Camino. I even understand why there is an oil pressure relay now.
Instead of checking the spark, why not just pour some fuel down the TBI body. If the engine starts there is no problem with the Spark.
That's the first thing I do on GM no start if everything sounds normal cranking use throttle body cleaner directly into the intake boot see if it starts.
Im having an issue with my 89 chevy. I wont start.. crank sounds good but i don’t think there is any fuel coming from the injectors... i can hear the fuel pump when i turn the key to the on position.
Great video. Big help. Thanks for the walk through of the fuel system
I got an 89 tbi injection chevy 350 and man inpray someone has had the same problem i put new fule pump in new relay for fule pump and fuse new throttle position sensor oxygen sensor and fule pump regulator and when u push the throttle to open throttle it slowly falls on its face and now i went and was thinking it may have been the hose that gose on fule pump so i pulled it down tried to put the other one i had because i thought iay got a bad one i put it all back together now the fule pump wont kick on help pls
This is great. You earned a subscriber. Hopefully I can figure out my 1991
Mine also has low oil pressure as it gets warm. Stays running for several minutes with a sip of fuel in the carb.. Things are starting to make sense.
thats how howtos should be done. nicely done with oldschool tools!
thank you so much for not doing this tools & equipment i don't have
Goodl lesson in troubleshooting, but kinda the long way around the barn. First thing to do after cranking it and seeing a no start would be to push in the valve on the fuel rail a little and see if any fuel squirted out. = You know you do or don't have a problem with fuel delivery in about 5 seconds!
Thank you much brother I didn't get to see the end of the video but I'm guessing it was maybe not the relay and the that's what I needed to watch is what part in the distributor actually might go bad but maybe in a relay I guess I'll watch the end of the video
Watched this video and saved myself from pulling the fuel tank. Just a bad relay
AWESOMMMMEEEEE!! Thank you so much for the in depth video.
Liked. Favorited. Subbed.
howzit it brother hope you can help me.today I'm working on a 93 Silverado 5.7 throttle body.so I pull the trouble codes manually first I had a map sensor and a knock sensor and a temperature sensor I replace them all today.the truck will not start now and stay running.if I unplug the temperature center it will start up but then dial after a minute or 2.what do you think my problem is the ECM or the Spark Control in the distributor
good stuff.thanks for refreshing my memory.GM truck products only for me!
Excellent explanation and trouble shooting.
Great video, I have a question.
If when check resistance and it shows 0 does this mean a bad or a faulty fuel pump?
I did all the checks like you said I have power at the relay I even applied power to pin going the fuel pump but I did not hear the pump turn on.
So is time to drop the gas tank?
Great video! Cant wait to test everything you are suggesting... do you plan to do a video on fuel pump replacement?
So... what do you do if there is no constant power on 87 but 87 goes to the ECM B on my truck and I tested the positive side of the fuse and had power there....?
+Wilson Revelle If you have no power to 87 of the relay ...you can only have one problem . A "Bad Connection" in that wire for 87 . ie..broken wire , corroded battery terminals.
+Bobby P. It actually ended being the fuel pump was bad. Thanks for the help!
I have a 93 chevy Cheyenne 4.3 liter truck with a no start problem it started off not starting all the time very intermittent now no start at all....replaced plugs,wires,cap,rotor,Coil and computer also replaced the filters on the injectors,outings and gaskets.I'm getting fuel to the injectors but that's as far as it goes I have no power to the 20 amp fuse in the engine compartment next step is to cut into the harness and start tracing wires.....any suggestions it's driving me nuts.
Great presentation.!!!!!!! Thank you for your time
Glad it was helpful!
Great Video, I have a question - I have a 1991 K1500 5.7. I sent the ECM for a rebuild/Check, the individual said he change the circuit board. After reinstalling the ECM the truck will not start no fuel. No fuel to the TBI, checked the fuel pump relay to ensure its powering the 5 volt. The relay is 14089936 A (orange wire/ECM) C (Red wire/Prime) D (Control Power Green/white-computer) E (Gray wire/Fuel Pump) F (Black/White-ground wire). Jumped A to E fuel pump does not run. Can I assume that the computer is bad since it was worked on? The truck was running prior to the computer being sent off and nothings else was touched. Trying to determine if a replacement computer is required.
wow man great video it helped out awesome. thanks soo mutch, you are an excellent mechanic no doubt
I have a 97 Express Van with a 5.7L and TBI. It has been running fine for a year since purchased used. It has recently developed an intermittent problem and it will not start. The battery is good, cranks fast. Fuel pump relay is good. I checked fuel pressure, which is a bit low (54psi) however when it runs it is smooth with no stumbling and good power. Spraying starter fluid into the intake causes it to fire immediately. Without the starter fluid it cranks fast and never does not fire at all, not a bit. The problem has never occurred while driving only after stopping and turning off the engine. The issue must be no pulse is making it to the injectors, yet it is an intermittent issue. I am wondering if you have any ideas on what else I should check/replace. Thanks in advance if you respond. regards, Matt
Do a powerbalance test on it to see if it's a dead miss on cyl 1.
Did you make sure you had spark on cyl1?
It might be a fuel problem (injector.. etc..)
Hello Robinson, what is the name of the sensor that is in the middle of spark plug wires 1 and 3 where you put the screwdriver to test the spark, the one that is from a single cable and what is it for? , you help me with that. thanks and very good video.
Robinson thanks for the mechanic channel
Are you using a pdf schematic, and if so how do you highlight the lines? Thanks for the great video.
what if you hear pump running when 87 and 30 are connected but the light does not come on on first test
My old fuel pump works ok as a pump but the fuel level sender is the problem. They don't sell just the fuel level sender...you gotta buy the whole pump. Auto parts stores sell them at about $250 but Amazon for around $105 including taxes and shipping. But then you have to modify the connector..so some minor rewiring is necessary. They say it's more reliable but I think it has more to do with making it harder to put in an official Chevy part should you be so inclined in the future.
I'll save you 20 minutes. It's usually the fusible link on the left hand side of the firewall. At the dealership we call it... The green wire. Not because that's the color of the wire on the outside. But because, that's the color of the wire on the inside.
One of my best Video, i add it on my FAV.list ...looking forward for the next video ...thanks buddy
Question, I checked the ground and its good, the hot and it was good. I jumpered the hot and pump and no pump. I also turned the key and no light at the control. WTF?? I replaced the pump only (it was all autozone had) and drove for 700 miles before it quit again. Any ideas?
Excellent video. Very thorough. 👍
Your very understandable thanks keep going in working on my98 nowgmc 2500 no sParkj
Hello there. I've got a question. Why did you not borrow a relay from the start? I knew your problem in this case from the beginning. Sometimes old school is a good teacher. Often, there are other options to test the circuit because time wasted is money spent. The relay is very cheap. If you spent more than an hour on schematics, resistance and other factors, I think that doesn't make sense. Not denying your credibility and I can appreciate your knowledge of circuits. I have a bad sensor causing my van to have fuel starvation. The pulse is too wide. But my fuel pressure is good. And I'm quite sure there is no back pressure in my exhaust. With starting fluid, she starts and runs but sometimes she hiccups. Plugs are good, lifetime wires, cap inspected and rotory button changed. Would you have an opinion to what causes these symptoms? Oh and we replaced the ECM also. I would really appreciate any feedback from anyone because my ASE mechanic and I are stumped! Thank you.
You should be a teacher bro. You know how you get what the teachers lesson is about and all of a sudden your just lost? From start to finish definitely I understand explanation step by step. 👍
Good video 100% right on.
Now do you know if my 93 GMC truck has a relay like this one you just fixed???
Now I’m not having trouble but I would like to know.
Thanks! RJ 😊👍🏼
Excellent tutorial. Unfortunately pump does not run when jumpered. Reads 0 ohms across 87-30, so either the pump is bad or the harness is shorted. Is there a way to get to the connector to the pump without dropping the tank?
+Robert Greenfield Did You get a Reply Yet? I'd like to know the same answer. Working on a '05 Impala 3800. Looks like the same Relay as In Mine.
No reply yet, but I found a lot of videos where people cut holes in their floors, so I assume the only access is by dropping the tank.
Oh that sucks. What car are You working on?
I would replace your Trucks "Fuel Filter & "Ground Straps" which are fairly easy to do. Besides causing OTHER electrical intemittent problems ...if you Ground Straps are bad ...the Fuel Pump will NOT run.
My problem is that I'm not getting enough fuel pressure. There's some gas coming through but there isn't enough voltage getting to the fuel pump to pump enough gas to get the engine to fully turn over. Just replaced the whole pump too thinking that was the problem because the last pump was actually starting to melt. I noticed the Fuel Pump Relay isn't making full contact some times and has shut off the truck a number of times because of it (usually when it's been running for over an hour or just really hot). Been getting engine misfires for years as well. Could this be from just the bad/spotty contact with the relay that caused the fuel pump to melt and possibly throw off fuel timings for all these engine misfires?
Where do the wires from the 2 fuel injectors go to / 1995 Chevrolet 1500 regular cab 4x4 5.7l
Thanks. Miss your videos!
fuel pressure is fine spark is fine any chance it could be the distributor, gas came shooting out of the pressure cap when pressed as a friend turned the ignition over
Check your grounds frame to engine to the fire wall to the hood and any others
85 chevy caprice v6 throttle body injections. My fuel pump does not turn on when attempt to start the car. We bypassed the fuel pump electrical line and it turns on. We changed the ignition control module, fuel pump relay and oil pressure switch . It's an obd 1 car and no check engine lights appear.
I would replace your Trucks "Fuel Filter & "Ground Straps" which are fairly easy to do. Besides causing OTHER electrical intemittent problems ...if you Ground Straps are bad ...the Fuel Pump will NOT run.
thank you for the explanation Mr. Robinson!
Excellent explanation Will
Beings you have a multimeter, start by checking the coil... :)BOTH ways by reversing the leads. A good one will show contunity BOTH ways. a BAD one will show contunity only one way... Theres a diode across the coil in the relay..
where is this diode and ignition relay located??
So the relay should have constant power and secondary power when the key is turned on ? My relay tested good it’s got constant power 12.60v. But the relay is not clicking when the key is turned on. When the key is turned on fuel pump is not running. All fuse are good. Ignition switch? Where is the relay control?
I would replace your Trucks "Ground Straps" which are faily easy to do. Beside other electrical intemittent problems ...if you Ground Straps are bad ...the Fuel Pump will NOT run.
So if I did all that and still have the same problem on my 2nd fuel pump what els is it ?
all u had to do was open the gas cap and listen for the fuel pump to whiirrrr when you turn the key on. in order for the injectors to pulse though, there has to be a signal from the distributor module to the ECM, letting the computer know that there is spark, and to send pulse to injector for fuel.
That was an awesome video.could this be the same problem for my 94 gm sierra it will not shoot any fuel in carburator.we replaced fuel pump in fuel tank n still no progress...i would appreciate your opinion.and once again great video..
So I have a 94 and my relay is over on the firewall which pin in the relay plug do I jump to from the hot because I don't think it's the same as the 95 ?
What computer application did you use to find the wiring harness of the vehicle and can it be used to find other wiring diagrams for other vehicles?
I have an 89 Nissan Pathfinder. Could you possibly add more videos on Nissan 3.0L Vg30i. I dropped the idol stop solenoid down spark plug hole. I watched your video on timing belt thermostat and water pump replacement last summer and did the work myself since bad times left me without a mechanic. So any advise?
Why not just turn the key on and listen for the fuel pump to go to Prime my Tahoe is trouble in the morning only in the morning when it started for the first time it cranks and cranks and cranks sputters like it's only getting some fuel but not turning over and starting an answer about three or four tries the engine found he starts up from that point on for the rest of the day the car runs great starts right up and purrs like a kitten it's like there's something going on where I'm losing the prime overnight and the pump is having a problem repriming the two lines which I just had replaced along with a new filter and yes my fuel pump activates every time I turn the key on
O and on my 89 chevy i put a tester to the fule pump put the tester on 12 vault battery and it gose to 12 but its jumping to-12 just need help
so i get nothing out of my 2000 5.7 vortec untill i pour fuel down the throttle body after that it runs fine , so do you think it could be the 97a part of that relay?
Very helpful,well detailed and explained!
Chris Hood hi how to change fuse panel for yukon model 1998
what if you don't have voltage to pin 85
I have a issue where i`m able to send a air hose down from the throttle body to the fuel filter (through the line of course) And.... It works just fine, Not getting gas however from the fuel line from the filter going to the throttle body, Checked fuel pump working fine, checked the line from the pump to the filter fine, just don't know why its doing what it is doing
So i jumped my fuel relay like you did at 18:18min on your video. fuel pump was going and tried to start the motor and stll didnt turn over
did i miss something
1996 3500 5.7 chevy 1ton 4x4
What if the pump doesn't work when bypassing the relay 87 and 30 brand new pump
Any luck?
Are you using alldata for the schematic?