I really liked how you showed most of what you did, not many things happened off camera. I also liked that you talked about what each part on the TBI was, for those who aren't so knowledgable. TY.
My son and I rebuilt the throttle body for his 87 chevy R10. It was night and day difference. I STRONGLY recommend buying a ultrasonic cleaner from HF. Also, the rebuild kits come with 2 long screws for helping put it all back together without pinching the diaphragm. LASTLY, get some Simple Green HD PURPLE! Regular Simple green will degrade aluminum. Great video dude!
Just wanted to say thanks. You made a very well put together video.It had all info needed without a bunch of useless talk .I watched it one time, then ordered parts and did my own with no problems. Thanks again!!!!
Don't expect the world, but I will say this. Every year I take this truck across PA for a car show, usually it uses half a tank each way. This year it went the whole trip and only used between 1/4 and 1/3 of a tank TOTAL. So something changed.
Hey, just wanted to thank you for a great tutorial. My long awaited startup should happen within the week and the throttle body is about the only thing I am not nervous about.
Thanks for this video! This is going to really help me with my '85 Cadillac. It's engine was replaced in 1994, so the throttle body injection thing is almost identical to this one.
My '90 Silverado 350 TBI needs this done. Thank you much for this awesome combination of quick but VERY detailed video, best of the maybe 5 or 6 others I've watched. Thank you.
This is a great video. No useless blah blah talk. Very informative. I am a little confused on how to and why the regulator needs adjustment and the need to drill out and insert the new style adjusting toolOther than that an excellent video. Thanks
+Thomas McHugh It's just an aftermarket regulator to raise fuel pressure, it is not required at all, just something optional I did. Some of the OE regulator housings are also adjustable. They have a set screw that is loctited in to a set pressure, but there is no way to get to the screw without first taking the throttle body apart.
+Fuel Injection Sucks Thank you for your reply to my inquiry which explained everything . I think I needed to also to view your part two video which I did to understand the adjustable regulator setup. Appreciate you taking the time to reply to my comment.
I'm a big fan of the TBI having grown up with carbs. Any type of fuel injection is a lot simpler than any carburetor. Fortunately for the motor heads born after 1985, almost all cars and trucks are fuel injected now. This is an excellent video. He speaks clearly and sticks to the subject at hand. The only thing I would add would be to apply some sort of lube on the O-rings before installation particularly on the ones on the injectors. I've found that those seals could roll out of their grooves when pressing the injectors in.
Yes you should add some trany oil on the rings. Good thought, he also did not show how to put in regulator spring. I thought the video was helpful. On till i try to put in that spring. I buy a rebuild kit it has two screws long about two inches. That is the only way that you can put in that spring. is with those screws. It took me two hours to figure it out. When you make a video, you have to show the hardest parts also. I ran into some trouble with that spring.
@@galehess6676 You could just buy a couple long screws at Ace (match the threads to the short ones used on the regulator). Put the spring in the cap and see about how far off the base the flange is, then pick screws about that long or a little bit shorter. Install them on opposite corners and tighten evenly. You're just wanting to use them to guide the body while you push down so it doesn't push the diaphragm in to one side or the other and damage it. Once you have two of the short screws in (not tight yet), remove the long ones and put the other two short screws in. THEN tighten them, doing opposite sides (cross pattern). I grew up in a machine shop, so always like to snug screws first on anything, then torque to spec if given. Just remember you're working with soft cast aluminum and steel screws, so if you have no torque specs, go just a little past snug, don't overtighten.
I'm going to pick up a kit this morning to do my '89 gmc c3500's 7.4l tbi. I know it will be a bit different but thanks for the awesome video. Have rebuilt carbs before, but not tbi. Am going to add the regulator you suggested. ☺
Fantastic job making this video! I've got a '90 'burb that I've been wanting to do this too, including the adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and gauge. Will probably even mod the tops of the venturi's and take off that raised band, and put the plastic pod spacer in. The truck does a lot of towing, so anything that helps with power output and maybe fuel mileage, is worth doing.
So any info on fuel presure differences , would a simple internal spring spacer ( washer) do just as well ? ,PS your sound level is way to low .Did u flush the injectors ?
I installed the CFM Technologies adjustable pressure regulator in my 1992 454 TBI 2 weeks ago. A couple of comments about the video. First, bending that vacuum tube below the new pressure adjuster thumb wheel does nothing. The thumb wheel is so close to the base of the metal tube that bending it does not provide any additional clearance that I could see. What I discovered was that I needed to screw in that thumb wheel A LOT more that I originally thought. There was tons of clearance when I got the pressure set to 13 psi. Lesson? Don't bend the tube at all (this is assuming you are still using the old stock spring in the regulator). In the rebuild kit there were two very, very, very, very, very small round filter screens. I am talking about 1/8" in each direction. After calling CFM Tech (GREAT tech support by the way), they said these go in the side of the injectors below the sealing o-rings. Never would have seen that or figured that out without that info. Definitely buy the fuel pressure gauge and adapter. You can't adjust what you cant measure. The net result? My 1992 31 foot Fleetwood Bounder went from 5.2 mpg to 6.67 mpg. NICE! Still working on a couple other issue with wide open throttle performance but there is no question adding this adjustable regulator absolutely helps. WAY more power and 20% better fuel economy.....Nice :-)
@@randy1ization because the combustion within a cylinders goes off of an air fuel ratio(afr). The ideal afr is 14.7:1. Assuming that at 13psi of fuel is at 14.7:1 or less (i.e 13.5-14:1) you will be running slightly rich providing the best combustion, fuel economy, and power. Without the proper fuel pressure you are running rich, too much gas (less than 14.7:1) which is fine but you are losing power and fuel economy. Or you're running lean, too little fuel (more than 14.7:1) which is bad because the heat within the combustion chamber can melt Pistons, rings, etc. And you will also be losing power
@@waynewilliams5802 Sorry for the delayed response....life events, covid, etc......:-). If you've ever rebuilt a standard carb with float chambers, jets, etc. This is about the easiest job you'll ever do. While they were out, I did take the time to send the injectors off for testing/cleaning (lots of companies around that do this). Since I posted this, I also noticed that I was still losing power when climbing hills as I pressed the accelerator hard. It seems like I had more power when my foot was lightly on the accelerator pedal versus firmly pressing down. I finally decided to check the base timing which I've never worried about in the past, because once set, it shouldn't move. The engine computer relies on the base timing to be exactly 4° BTDC (on this engine) in order to do it's job correctly. What I discovered was it was set to 4° ...... ATDC! The prior owner saw a 4° mark and set it to that, but it was the ATDC mark. The engine was basically running 8° retarded. After fixing THAT minor little issue, the motorhome was leaping up long hills when accelerating hard (as much as a big motorhome can leap) and the fuel economy went up to around 9.2 MPG. Nice.....
I'm so gonna do this. I have a 92 454 and developed a nice stutter to the point it won't run. So....I'm going to replace the Coolant Sensore, Map Sensor and I was going to rebuild the Idle Air Control Valve until I watched this video. But....However... I'm now going to rebuild my TBI Fuel Injector Unit after watching your video 3 more times. Great video but just too much beer right now. You da Man!! Thank you...Rocket
I saw a project where they ran two of the throttle bodys, I think only a single idle air motor. And paralleled the injectors! With a bit of ecm programming. I thought about doing it myself. But a 750 double pumper took the place of that idea!!
hi good nights i have a G20 GMC van, with 5,0L v8, and the comsuption gas is high! i rebuilt the TBI with gaskets and is the same. the fuel pressure regulator can be fail? or the return gasoline can be covered? the ECT sensor is working fine, no "service soon engine" lights, and the O2 sensor is woring fine, the maf and the other sensors too. how can be the problem, thank´s
rebuild mine, thanks, to your video. i had some issues with my tbi when i put a v8 350 5.7L in my Astro van. found out that i had a bad ground and one of the injectors were bad. Thanks again for the great video.
I wish there were more videos like yours. No nonsense, just "here's this part, here's that part, here's where the bolts come out, here's where the lines come in, this is what this part does, etc." Too many videos start out rambling about irrelevant stuff with shaky, unfocused videos, pointing through the engine compartment with greasy fingers. lmao, good on ya bud. Thanks for the video!
Put a new kit in mine today, but I had to fight those injectors out & in! 93 GMC 350ci 1500 would NOT idle at all~ but this solved my problem... Just need to reset (initial timing) on the new dizzy, and I'm back on the road.
The larger o-ring is probably pinched or twisted between the two halves of the injector body. Take it apart, you can do it on the vehicle, and see if it's sitting in there nicely. It helps sometimes to coat it in a light oil, I forgot to mention that in the video.
A test light can overload the ecu, but I have used one before. I'm not sure, but there is a good possibility that the injectors are constant hot, and the ECU grounds the circuit to fire them, so test from the ground to the hot on the battery, or just get a noid night set to be safe.
The injector pod spacer you were referring to is also sold on Jegs for much less money than CFM tech. It's plastic, not billet....I have had one for a couple of years and it could probably even be made of wood lol billet is unnecessary. Also I took a carbide bit to that "lip" they have going around the top of each barrel....no regrets!
No, base idle is through the throttle plates, there Is an idle adjustment on the drivers side. The IAC bumps the truck over base idle for cold start, abs when the ac compressor is engaged
Good to know, only thing I know on the truck is a throttle body spacer mod. I'm trying to troubleshoot my truck running lean causing it to stall. So hopefully taking the TBI apart would lead me to the cause
Yes, the injectors can go bad. The kit is about $35. You can get it at almost any auto parts store. You have to do more research to see if this is why it's not running. First make sure you have fuel pressure, and verify the pump is even running. If you do have fuel pressure, borrow a set of "noid lights" from Autozone and plug them into the injector wiring. You should see them flash. This will verify if the computer is signalling injector pulse or not.
Thanks for the video! Got a 88 chevy pickup with a 350 and installed a jet performance fuel pressure regulator similar to the one you installed. My question is after installing it there is no way to test the pressure to the injectors. The gauge you talk about is before the regulator... Does this give you the right pressure readings or just the pressure from the fuel pump?? Thanks!!
Can you possibly make a parts list; or set of part links? including the company name, and or part numbers links in the description? I need to rebuild my carb soon, I have a high idle problem, and I'm pretty sure it's the gasket under the throttle body; but I'd also like to rebuild it with upgraded parts. BTW your video was awesome! thanks for the help!
Haven't needed to useit for the injector screens, but if you hunt around in your toolbox for a CLEAN socket (or box-end) that fits over the end of the injector, you can use that to push the screen on with even pressure all around.
The fuel pressure regulator is already adjustable, just grab the external diaphragm post with a pair of vise grips and crank it back and forth a turn each way to free it up.
i had an 89 camaro 305tbi that did that after it warmed up to operating temp, it turned out to be a driver in the ecm that was shutting off the fuel pump when warmed up
Check fuel pressure. If you have the required 12-13 PSI, I'd check out the pickup coil inside the distributor. The computer uses it to pulse the injectors, and they get a problem reading at low RPM. Its rare to see both injectors fail at once. Get a "Noid" light set, it's a loan tool at Autozone, and plug it into your injector harness at the TBI unit. They should flash as the injector gets the signal to fire. If they do nothing, the computer isn't signally them to open.
control module in that small cap hei is notoriuous for failing DO NOT BUY THE AUTOZONE modules... POS lucky if they last a month. no fire on both inj. almost promise its the control module.
Great video. I saw someone asked about the injectors orientation whe putting them back in. Isn't there a notch that needs to be lined up? One injector facing with notch facing forward and one facing backward.
Hello,i was just lookin at your video getting tips on the trottle body cleaning etc etc,now i have a 89 trottle body that was on a 305 that i put on a 350 10 yrs ago,history is that since i put a new 350 in it,i only drove it 10,000 miles...sooo i was just wondering if that idling air control valve,if faulty,could it make it use more gas when idling than when even moving around,that seems to be the case,plus i wanna get that kit anyway so i am looking into it,i did not hear anything in the video or anywhere on that idling air valve,if it is,any comments thanks and get back
Thanks for the reply, yes from what i have read the ECU grounds them. i will try to help him tom. in the light-- NAPA nor Autozone had noid lights and one guy told me there all noid lights are the same so rather than arguing i left-- up to him if he wants to buy the 2 lights but i feel ECU or wire problem, his truck is a serious disaster under the hood regarding wires, etc.
Awesome video. Quick question. Is there any way to mess up the orange regulator piece when installing? Mines is leaking from somewhere in the rear. Not sure if I somehow installed it slanted
Great video and thanks for taking the time to make it! I have a 92 sierra, same system and I replace the intake manifold for an tbi ederbrock intake manifold and an aluminum spacer under the tbi and ever since I haven't being able to make it run right. It stalls at full throttle, I guess my question is does it needs more more air,more fuel or both or maybe less of both. and can that be adjust? Thanks
Have you ever removed the armature the linkage connects to at the end of the shaft? I need to remove one from a stock unit to put onto a Holley TBI unit that has a different armature?
Thanks--i will check tom. for him, however it seems pretty obvious that the injectors aren't being called so i'll check some wiring for him, he said he can return the control module anyway to AZ
Can you adjust the idle screw? I noticed when I turn mine the tip of the screw that touches the throttle doesn't actually move.. Not sure if its made that way so you don't screw up the idle or if the screw is actually broken.
step 1. lubricate and put small o ring in the bowl. Step 2 install back up washer for large o ring. Step 3 lubricate and install large o ring on top of back up washer. step 4 lubricate both o ring contact surfaces of injector. Step 5, slowly push injectors into the housing. step 6 evenly torque torx screws after installing injector housing cap or lid. step 7 is check for leaks. Step 8, start vehicle.
What people don’t know is that most stock regulators are adjustable👌🏻. Just take some channel lock pliers on the round piece sticking out from it and watch the tab in the side of the regulator move up and down to change pressure
in response to sticky throttle, throttle shaft holes in body casting on mine wore out. open throttle, grab shaft & wiggle back & forth at every 90°. any play & the body is wore out. my machinist line boared it over size & made bushings for it from harley valve guides. works better than new now.
i replaced a fuel injector on my 95 gmc k2500 it wouldn't start and made a loud clunk and nothing more looks like the o ring broke and it leaked alot. it ran fine before no issues but a missfire i was told by mechanic was whyi replaced it. Any ideas why all i would get a loud clunk when turning key?
Very nice video. Wish I had watched it before rebuilding mine. After rebuild, when key is turned on, the TB bowl fills up on top of the throttle plate then the gas leaks down into the manifold. Also, the throttle shaft is leaking onto the manifold at each end of the shaft. When I reassembled the TB, I noticed that the Air valve plunger did not have any play in it, in or out. Can I put new seals on the throttle shaft? Could I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator backwards?
Exactly what I was looking for, I have a 88' GMC that's running lean with 10PSI. So hopefully this will work. What do you suggest my PSI should actually be at?
I did every step you mentioned now the truck ticks when I'm driving. Some say the new regulator is bad, some say the injectors are bad and others say bad lifters. No issues before. What do you guys think?
I really liked how you showed most of what you did, not many things happened off camera. I also liked that you talked about what each part on the TBI was, for those who aren't so knowledgable. TY.
My son and I rebuilt the throttle body for his 87 chevy R10. It was night and day difference. I STRONGLY recommend buying a ultrasonic cleaner from HF.
Also, the rebuild kits come with 2 long screws for helping put it all back together without pinching the diaphragm. LASTLY, get some Simple Green HD PURPLE! Regular Simple green will degrade aluminum. Great video dude!
Thanks, I was wondering what those long screws were for.
Just wanted to say thanks. You made a very well put together video.It had all info needed without a bunch of useless talk .I watched it one time, then ordered parts and did my own with no problems. Thanks again!!!!
Don't expect the world, but I will say this. Every year I take this truck across PA for a car show, usually it uses half a tank each way. This year it went the whole trip and only used between 1/4 and 1/3 of a tank TOTAL. So something changed.
Are you implying its cause of the TBI rebuild.
Hey, just wanted to thank you for a great tutorial. My long awaited startup should happen within the week and the throttle body is about the only thing I am not nervous about.
My 91 K1500 has been sitting for about 2 years now without running. Thanks for giving me a better view into what’s going on inside that unit.
So glad u made this video man lol. 9 years later and this is helpful as he!!.
Thanks for this video! This is going to really help me with my '85 Cadillac. It's engine was replaced in 1994, so the throttle body injection thing is almost identical to this one.
This video rocks!!! I did the rebuild with this as my guide & it all came together perfectly!! Thank you so much, saved me some dough on my work van.
Excellent video! I will be rebuilding my TBI in the next couple of days and now I know what to expect. Awesome :)
My '90 Silverado 350 TBI needs this done. Thank you much for this awesome combination of quick but VERY detailed video, best of the maybe 5 or 6 others I've watched. Thank you.
See if there is a difference with the 454 and the 262
Thanks man this video really helped me rebuild my tb today. Truck seems to be idiling smoother and acceleration seems better! Again thanks!
Great video with excellent explanations on how this works. Thanks
This is a great video. No useless blah blah talk. Very informative. I am a little confused on how to and why the regulator needs adjustment and the need to drill out and insert the new style adjusting toolOther than that an excellent video. Thanks
+Thomas McHugh It's just an aftermarket regulator to raise fuel pressure, it is not required at all, just something optional I did. Some of the OE regulator housings are also adjustable. They have a set screw that is loctited in to a set pressure, but there is no way to get to the screw without first taking the throttle body apart.
+Fuel Injection Sucks Thank you for your reply to my inquiry which explained everything . I think I needed to also to view your part two video which I did to understand the adjustable regulator setup. Appreciate you taking the time to reply to my comment.
Older cars and trucks get worn out. Being able to adjust pressure, allows for better performance..
I added new injectors and now it leakes fuel and doesn't turn over or start any help would be helpful. Thanks
just came across this vid, ordered the parts from summit, getting them tomorrow!
Great job there... Nice seems easy to do, gonna get mine rebuild thanks for posting have a great day...
I'm a big fan of the TBI having grown up with carbs. Any type of fuel injection is a lot simpler than any carburetor. Fortunately for the motor heads born after 1985, almost all cars and trucks are fuel injected now. This is an excellent video. He speaks clearly and sticks to the subject at hand. The only thing I would add would be to apply some sort of lube on the O-rings before installation particularly on the ones on the injectors. I've found that those seals could roll out of their grooves when pressing the injectors in.
Yes you should add some trany oil on the rings. Good thought, he also did not show how to put in regulator spring. I thought the video was helpful. On till i try to put in that spring. I buy a rebuild kit it has two screws long about two inches. That is the only way that you can put in that spring. is with those screws. It took me two hours to figure it out. When you make a video, you have to show the hardest parts also. I ran into some trouble with that spring.
@@carlosvalentin856 how is this done?
@@galehess6676 watch the other videos on this than u will learn.
@@galehess6676 You could just buy a couple long screws at Ace (match the threads to the short ones used on the regulator). Put the spring in the cap and see about how far off the base the flange is, then pick screws about that long or a little bit shorter. Install them on opposite corners and tighten evenly. You're just wanting to use them to guide the body while you push down so it doesn't push the diaphragm in to one side or the other and damage it. Once you have two of the short screws in (not tight yet), remove the long ones and put the other two short screws in. THEN tighten them, doing opposite sides (cross pattern). I grew up in a machine shop, so always like to snug screws first on anything, then torque to spec if given. Just remember you're working with soft cast aluminum and steel screws, so if you have no torque specs, go just a little past snug, don't overtighten.
@@AZStarYT Thanks for the details!
I'm going to pick up a kit this morning to do my '89 gmc c3500's 7.4l tbi. I know it will be a bit different but thanks for the awesome video. Have rebuilt carbs before, but not tbi. Am going to add the regulator you suggested. ☺
great video ya did a great job talking your way through it informative
That is pretty cool I just picked up a 1987 GMC 1 Ton and should probably look at rebuilding the TBI throttle body.
Thank you so much for this video. You're awesome!
subbed thanks for clear understandable info with no mindless ramble or death rattle music. am doing mine soon while watching yours ..Its that Good !
Thanks for the video! It was very easy to understand. I'm gonna follow the video when I do
Thank you now I’m more confident to rebuild mine.👍
great tutorial you inspired me I'm going to rebuild mine thank you
Fantastic job making this video! I've got a '90 'burb that I've been wanting to do this too, including the adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and gauge. Will probably even mod the tops of the venturi's and take off that raised band, and put the plastic pod spacer in. The truck does a lot of towing, so anything that helps with power output and maybe fuel mileage, is worth doing.
So any info on fuel presure differences , would a simple internal spring spacer ( washer) do just as well ? ,PS your sound level is way to low .Did u flush the injectors ?
Great information thanks for sharing
Nice job on your video. Great work and very simple. It helped me a lot. Thanks mate!
I like how you explain what the parts are supposed to do
I installed the CFM Technologies adjustable pressure regulator in my 1992 454 TBI 2 weeks ago. A couple of comments about the video. First, bending that vacuum tube below the new pressure adjuster thumb wheel does nothing. The thumb wheel is so close to the base of the metal tube that bending it does not provide any additional clearance that I could see. What I discovered was that I needed to screw in that thumb wheel A LOT more that I originally thought. There was tons of clearance when I got the pressure set to 13 psi. Lesson? Don't bend the tube at all (this is assuming you are still using the old stock spring in the regulator). In the rebuild kit there were two very, very, very, very, very small round filter screens. I am talking about 1/8" in each direction. After calling CFM Tech (GREAT tech support by the way), they said these go in the side of the injectors below the sealing o-rings. Never would have seen that or figured that out without that info. Definitely buy the fuel pressure gauge and adapter. You can't adjust what you cant measure.
The net result? My 1992 31 foot Fleetwood Bounder went from 5.2 mpg to 6.67 mpg. NICE! Still working on a couple other issue with wide open throttle performance but there is no question adding this adjustable regulator absolutely helps. WAY more power and 20% better fuel economy.....Nice :-)
how does the higher fuel pressure make more power
@@randy1ization because the combustion within a cylinders goes off of an air fuel ratio(afr). The ideal afr is 14.7:1. Assuming that at 13psi of fuel is at 14.7:1 or less (i.e 13.5-14:1) you will be running slightly rich providing the best combustion, fuel economy, and power. Without the proper fuel pressure you are running rich, too much gas (less than 14.7:1) which is fine but you are losing power and fuel economy. Or you're running lean, too little fuel (more than 14.7:1) which is bad because the heat within the combustion chamber can melt Pistons, rings, etc. And you will also be losing power
@@KJTUSKJTUS does increasing PSI not mess with the onboard computer?
@chrissmith...hey mane how hard was it to do bone
@@waynewilliams5802 Sorry for the delayed response....life events, covid, etc......:-). If you've ever rebuilt a standard carb with float chambers, jets, etc. This is about the easiest job you'll ever do. While they were out, I did take the time to send the injectors off for testing/cleaning (lots of companies around that do this). Since I posted this, I also noticed that I was still losing power when climbing hills as I pressed the accelerator hard. It seems like I had more power when my foot was lightly on the accelerator pedal versus firmly pressing down. I finally decided to check the base timing which I've never worried about in the past, because once set, it shouldn't move. The engine computer relies on the base timing to be exactly 4° BTDC (on this engine) in order to do it's job correctly. What I discovered was it was set to 4° ...... ATDC! The prior owner saw a 4° mark and set it to that, but it was the ATDC mark. The engine was basically running 8° retarded. After fixing THAT minor little issue, the motorhome was leaping up long hills when accelerating hard (as much as a big motorhome can leap) and the fuel economy went up to around 9.2 MPG. Nice.....
I'm so gonna do this. I have a 92 454 and developed a nice stutter to the point it won't run. So....I'm going to replace the Coolant Sensore, Map Sensor and I was going to rebuild the Idle Air Control Valve until I watched this video. But....However... I'm now going to rebuild my TBI Fuel Injector Unit after watching your video 3 more times. Great video but just too much beer right now. You da Man!! Thank you...Rocket
I modified my TBI by taking it and the intake off, putting it on the bottom shelf in my garage, and replacing it with an Edelbrock 1406 carburetor. :)
Good vid man, thanks! I got the kit and am on it today !
He's not even here anymore... But damn this dude is legit. He had a talent.
2009 ram 1500 fuel injection perfect bought new never fail to start im 88 this is the best truck of my life and iv owned quite a few
Very good video the diaphragm and the spring is tuff though.
Great video! Gonna help me alot.
I saw a project where they ran two of the throttle bodys, I think only a single idle air motor. And paralleled the injectors! With a bit of ecm programming. I thought about doing it myself. But a 750 double pumper took the place of that idea!!
hi good nights i have a G20 GMC van, with 5,0L v8, and the comsuption gas is high! i rebuilt the TBI with gaskets and is the same. the fuel pressure regulator can be fail? or the return gasoline can be covered? the ECT sensor is working fine, no "service soon engine" lights, and the O2 sensor is woring fine, the maf and the other sensors too. how can be the problem, thank´s
Thank you so much for making this video. It helped me so much, it was exactly what I needed to know.
rebuild mine, thanks, to your video. i had some issues with my tbi when i put a v8 350 5.7L in my Astro van. found out that i had a bad ground and one of the injectors were bad. Thanks again for the great video.
Good job! Would be great if they still made the AWDs! I miss my Safari. It was a handful of trouble, but great AWD and interior. Wanna go camping?
How does it ride with a heavier front load
@@melindaortiz9741 with a stiffer front suspensions? rides like a V6.
Thanks so much for this video!!!
Good video man!
Exlent job dear.. you'd is the best helpful video
I wish there were more videos like yours. No nonsense, just "here's this part, here's that part, here's where the bolts come out, here's where the lines come in, this is what this part does, etc." Too many videos start out rambling about irrelevant stuff with shaky, unfocused videos, pointing through the engine compartment with greasy fingers. lmao, good on ya bud. Thanks for the video!
Put a new kit in mine today, but I had to fight those injectors out & in!
93 GMC 350ci 1500 would NOT idle at all~ but this solved my problem...
Just need to reset (initial timing) on the new dizzy, and I'm back on the road.
Thank you.
Great video ☺️👌👍☺️
The larger o-ring is probably pinched or twisted between the two halves of the injector body. Take it apart, you can do it on the vehicle, and see if it's sitting in there nicely. It helps sometimes to coat it in a light oil, I forgot to mention that in the video.
Buen trabajo amigo
YES!YES!YES! THANK YOU!!!!
A test light can overload the ecu, but I have used one before. I'm not sure, but there is a good possibility that the injectors are constant hot, and the ECU grounds the circuit to fire them, so test from the ground to the hot on the battery, or just get a noid night set to be safe.
Good Job!! Thanks!
Next one you do try using some marvel oil the rubber parts go back so much better and do NOT stick causing rips..
GOOD VIDEO MY BROTHER
hey great vid I just got a 93 gmc Yukon so this helps a lot good job
The injector pod spacer you were referring to is also sold on Jegs for much less money than CFM tech. It's plastic, not billet....I have had one for a couple of years and it could probably even be made of wood lol billet is unnecessary. Also I took a carbide bit to that "lip" they have going around the top of each barrel....no regrets!
No, base idle is through the throttle plates, there Is an idle adjustment on the drivers side. The IAC bumps the truck over base idle for cold start, abs when the ac compressor is engaged
Very good video
Well done
Good to know, only thing I know on the truck is a throttle body spacer mod. I'm trying to troubleshoot my truck running lean causing it to stall. So hopefully taking the TBI apart would lead me to the cause
Yes, the injectors can go bad. The kit is about $35. You can get it at almost any auto parts store. You have to do more research to see if this is why it's not running. First make sure you have fuel pressure, and verify the pump is even running. If you do have fuel pressure, borrow a set of "noid lights" from Autozone and plug them into the injector wiring. You should see them flash. This will verify if the computer is signalling injector pulse or not.
Thanks for the video! Got a 88 chevy pickup with a 350 and installed a jet performance fuel pressure regulator similar to the one you installed. My question is after installing it there is no way to test the pressure to the injectors. The gauge you talk about is before the regulator... Does this give you the right pressure readings or just the pressure from the fuel pump?? Thanks!!
Can you possibly make a parts list; or set of part links? including the company name, and or part numbers links in the description?
I need to rebuild my carb soon, I have a high idle problem, and I'm pretty sure it's the gasket under the throttle body; but I'd also like to rebuild it with upgraded parts. BTW your video was awesome! thanks for the help!
Like the new regular key
Haven't needed to useit for the injector screens, but if you hunt around in your toolbox for a CLEAN socket (or box-end) that fits over the end of the injector, you can use that to push the screen on with even pressure all around.
good show
The fuel pressure regulator is already adjustable, just grab the external diaphragm post with a pair of vise grips and crank it back and forth a turn each way to free it up.
thank you for the info my 350 runs with a pre boast of either looking for the fix
ignition module in distributor fixed my "no prime" problem.
I rebuilt a 91 TBI and the truck runs way better. BUT
The noise of the injectors is WAY louder now.
Did i do something wrong?
Probably because you sonic cleaned the injectors?
good video
me sirbio de mucha ayuda gracias
i had an 89 camaro 305tbi that did that after it warmed up to operating temp, it turned out to be a driver in the ecm that was shutting off the fuel pump when warmed up
Check fuel pressure. If you have the required 12-13 PSI, I'd check out the pickup coil inside the distributor. The computer uses it to pulse the injectors, and they get a problem reading at low RPM. Its rare to see both injectors fail at once. Get a "Noid" light set, it's a loan tool at Autozone, and plug it into your injector harness at the TBI unit. They should flash as the injector gets the signal to fire. If they do nothing, the computer isn't signally them to open.
control module in that small cap hei is notoriuous for failing DO NOT BUY THE AUTOZONE modules... POS lucky if they last a month. no fire on both inj. almost promise its the control module.
este es el mejor sistema de alimentacion de combustible, mi camion año 95 aun no ha fallado por esto
Great video. I saw someone asked about the injectors orientation whe putting them back in. Isn't there a notch that needs to be lined up? One injector facing with notch facing forward and one facing backward.
Hello,i was just lookin at your video getting tips on the trottle body cleaning etc etc,now i have a 89 trottle body that was on a 305 that i put on a 350 10 yrs ago,history is that since i put a new 350 in it,i only drove it 10,000 miles...sooo i was just wondering if that idling air control valve,if faulty,could it make it use more gas when idling than when even moving around,that seems to be the case,plus i wanna get that kit anyway so i am looking into it,i did not hear anything in the video or anywhere on that idling air valve,if it is,any comments thanks and get back
Awesome
Thanks for the reply, yes from what i have read the ECU grounds them. i will try to help him tom. in the light-- NAPA nor Autozone had noid lights and one guy told me there all noid lights are the same so rather than arguing i left-- up to him if he wants to buy the 2 lights but i feel ECU or wire problem, his truck is a serious disaster under the hood regarding wires, etc.
Awesome video. Quick question. Is there any way to mess up the orange regulator piece when installing? Mines is leaking from somewhere in the rear. Not sure if I somehow installed it slanted
Great video and thanks for taking the time to make it!
I have a 92 sierra, same system and I replace the intake manifold for an tbi ederbrock intake manifold and an aluminum spacer under the tbi and ever since I haven't being able to make it run right.
It stalls at full throttle, I guess my question is does it needs more more air,more fuel or both or maybe less of both. and can that be adjust?
Thanks
israel cisneros im having the exact same problem. boggs at wot
Have you ever removed the armature the linkage connects to at the end of the shaft? I need to remove one from a stock unit to put onto a Holley TBI unit that has a different armature?
Thanks--i will check tom. for him, however it seems pretty obvious that the injectors aren't being called so i'll check some wiring for him, he said he can return the control module anyway to AZ
Can you adjust the idle screw? I noticed when I turn mine the tip of the screw that touches the throttle doesn't actually move.. Not sure if its made that way so you don't screw up the idle or if the screw is actually broken.
Good vídeo. Very clear.
Is it the same for 1995 C1500 4.3?
step 1. lubricate and put small o ring in the bowl. Step 2 install back up washer for large o ring. Step 3 lubricate and install large o ring on top of back up washer. step 4 lubricate both o ring contact surfaces of injector. Step 5, slowly push injectors into the housing. step 6 evenly torque torx screws after installing injector housing cap or lid. step 7 is check for leaks. Step 8, start vehicle.
Would rebuilding/replacing (with aftermarket) give more fuel economy?
I use a simple DEL and resistor instead of a Noid light. You can get that in any electronic store or scavenger it from dead electronic stuff
Thanks, just wanted to make sure there was no "front or back" orientation when putting the injector back.
Great video. What are some good vendors for injector replacement? Other than oem is there a company that sells quality tbi injectors?
What people don’t know is that most stock regulators are adjustable👌🏻. Just take some channel lock pliers on the round piece sticking out from it and watch the tab in the side of the regulator move up and down to change pressure
Are you being sarcastic?
where did you get the adjustable fuel pressure regulator screw from? any benefits?
Only way to tell is doing a fuel pressure test. Also check your timing, MAP sensor, and it's possible that your EGR could be hanging open.
in response to sticky throttle, throttle shaft holes in body casting on mine wore out. open throttle, grab shaft & wiggle back & forth at every 90°. any play & the body is wore out. my machinist line boared it over size & made bushings for it from harley valve guides. works better than new now.
Helps to coat the paper gaskets with Chapstick. This will prevent them from sticking and coming apart.
i replaced a fuel injector on my 95 gmc k2500 it wouldn't start and made a loud clunk and nothing more looks like the o ring broke and it leaked alot. it ran fine before no issues but a missfire i was told by mechanic was whyi replaced it. Any ideas why all i would get a loud clunk when turning key?
Autozone has them, I know I work there lol.
Loan-a-tool part number 27161
Very nice video. Wish I had watched it before rebuilding mine. After rebuild, when key is turned on, the TB bowl fills up on top of the throttle plate then the gas leaks down into the manifold. Also, the throttle shaft is leaking onto the manifold at each end of the shaft. When I reassembled the TB, I noticed that the Air valve plunger did not have any play in it, in or out. Can I put new seals on the throttle shaft? Could I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator backwards?
Exactly what I was looking for, I have a 88' GMC that's running lean with 10PSI. So hopefully this will work. What do you suggest my PSI should actually be at?
I did every step you mentioned now the truck ticks when I'm driving. Some say the new regulator is bad, some say the injectors are bad and others say bad lifters. No issues before. What do you guys think?