Ya My o2 was dead, New one fixed it up., Then it ran bad like a year after.. was the fuel pump. Had like really low pressure. Now it just works great! New o2 new fuel pump. Runs very nice. 1994 Best damn year keep it
@@GhettoWagon yeah I’m going to try out the 02 when it gets here. When it come to my truck picking was between a 94 extended cab or a 00 single cab long bed. But the 94 was loaded. Had a factory tach, and the nice cup holders below the radio. Many know how much them cup holders are worth it in these years
yea the wave length / voltage should be steady w/o much hang up on any value. basically its just a wave Max to min over and over If its slow? to react its dying OR... another issue is happening like its running lean. rich from something upstream of the o2 @@MHolt3573
Changed the o2 and it was good? Mine was pegged rich, dead o2. Changed it, perfect. Then a year? Later the fuel pump was weak and causing it to go way lean randomly. :D IDC. I fix it.
Does this thing get driven often.?...I have OBD1 in my '38 and I only use it for timing adjustments...It's a great system 'cos of the minimal control the ECU has over the engine...I always disconnect the battery when it's parked in the shed "that's most of it's time" and it does a real quick re-learn on the tune when I can get the time to fire it up..Does yours have a "full lean" in Park and neutral.?..The Bosch system in my Chevy does...Very loud sucking noise from a pod filter gives it all away..But I do have an improved memcal in the ECU...Plug and play deal...Adds fuel and timing and no CEL.
+ZIGgassedUP Its been sitting for 3 months or so. I am not sure about how lean the ECM wants to make it. These TBI engines do not have a vacuum adjustable fuel regulator so its always too lean, or too rich at idle. I was also thinking because it sits and its hot here the charcoal canister could be loaded up with fuel vapors from the hot gas tank.
I have a 1994 GMC k1500 5.7 that has been running rich since I bought it. I have bought a brand new throttle body that came with the new injectors and idle air control valve as well with the throttle position senser. I also put a new temperature coolant sensor in along with a new o2 senser and mass air flow senser. New starter and plugs with wires as well as a cap and rotor. All of this has been done in the past week and it's still running rich. I did pull the plugs to check them again and noticed that my # 7 and # 8 have black sludge look to them. So I have just bought a new distributor and will be installing that Friday as well as doing the timing. If that don't work the only other thing I haven't replaced is the EGR valve. Any input from anyone would be helpful thanks.
There is no mass airflow sensor. If its running truly rich check the fuel pressure could be dripping fuel injector could be too much pressure from a messed up fuel pressure regulator or someone messed with it raising the pressure. If one plug is fouling could have a bad valve seal. Valve guide and its fouling it with oil. EGR valve wont do anything. I dunno why so many think the EGR valve causes so much. Its only used at part throttle to mix exhaust gasses in to lower combustion temps and clean up the tail pipe emissions. When mine was broken from a ripped diaphragm I always felt it ran better then after when I fixed it
Okay so I have a 1985 monte carlo with the 4.3L V6 and I'm throwing codes 34 and 45 as well .. my symptoms are sluggish on acceleration and no power ... could this as well be the O2 , you think ?
@@GhettoWagon I figured out what is was ! The car only has 52k miles on it so i figured everything was good aside from the o2 sensor ... but it turns out I had a rocker arm nut that backed off and that cylinder wasn't firing correctly so it was blowing straight gas through giving me a rich/lean code
+ZIGgassedUP The timing is always about that when the set timing connector is plugged in. IT jumps around sometimes I need to built a new distributor for it, it has too much up and down play. Have the parts, Just got to build it. A/F Radio, I think I can make it show that.
Anthony Acosta Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It does live, record, graphing, code connect to diagnose codes, oil light reset, smog readiness test, and MORE! It comes with a OBDI cables for Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and 2 Toyota cables. It has a cigarette lighter cable, instructions. Get a 12v cigarette lighter adaptor for the battery. It works from 1983-2013. It is updatable.
The people who appreciate you most never have to come back to this video. We saw what you did and got it right. Someone who didn't get it right will comment something negative. Take the views to comment ratio into account.
Hi I have a 91 Chevy pick up 350 5.7 tbi my injectors are dumping fuel I've changed the map sensor the coolant temp sensor distributor rotory button any ideas
Hi I have a 1994 Chevy 1500 5.7 tbi I feel like my rpm drops very low when I put into any gear I’ve changed a few sensors already and nothing seems to solve the problem any advice?
@@GhettoWagon and how can I check the fuel pressure? Sorry I’m only 17 and new to these trucks I just rather learn it myself so I know better next time
@@victor2x668 need a TBI fuel pressure adapter. Goes inline either at the throttle body or the fuel filter. YA ignition timing if its retarded it will idle low.
On your video I seen your rpm is also low has it always been like that and is that normal? I feel like mine is too low and it’s like at around 550 sometimes 600 in reverse or drive and when I turn on the ac it completely shuts off
crazy! I just bought a 95 Yukon on Friday that has the same code but runs way worse. dies in gear has no power and idles like its missing on two holes.
+john jensen Mine was not that bad, I just changed the o2 sensor an hr ago, Video on that soon, It runs decent now. If its really running bad, Check for vac leaks, you will hear it, those crappy hoses, nylon tubes will split with age) Pull off the air cleaner, make sure one of the injectors is not dumping fuel, just dripping it into the throttle body instead of spraying. If that's good, Unplug the MAP sensor, (green connector it always breaks) if it runs better the map sensor could be bad That or the o2 sensor could be sleepy. Does it run on when its cold? Gets worse when it warms up? If you have a few OBD1 cars Get a a OBD1 USB cable and find a free program that give you live data, Its a ghetto scan tool but it works.
Thanks I think I have this problem on my 89 Regal the idle is terrible 50% of the time but anything off idle it runs like a scalded dog. The exhaust seems to be inconsistent sometimes it smells pig rich and other times lean. It's particularly smelly on Startup
Could be if it runs rough or rich then back to normal ONLY in closed loop, (when it warms up about 150* degrees coolant temp) Best is to get some sort of logging tool and check the o2 sensor waves. Now I have a CLONE GM tech 2 scan tool, u can buy one too they are allover ali express or ebay for 250-300 bucks shipped from china Works just like the GM tech 2 and works good on OBD1 vehicles. Trucks been good after the o2 swap Did have the fuel pump die about a year later, was weak ran really lean and stalled out. o2 sensor failure made it run pig rich!
@@GhettoWagon cool. I like the idea of getting some software for my laptop like you're using in this video I don't drive this car very much and all my other cars are OBD2. Also if I turn off the car and restart it things seem to settle back to normal. I clean the IAC and it seemed to respond very well to that. I should look into the O2 however it's been in there a long time
Ya this was a old version of datamaster. I don't like it but it shows some stuff. The tech 2 is better its what the dealer would of used. And I can manually cycle stuff with the tool @@widtrak77
@@widtrak77 yea tech 2 clone does it. look for a tech 2 clone just realize some are kinda mehh. I had to pick apart the connectors on mine now they seat like a legit one. Everything else works fine on it. Get one before the trade tariffs happen. Just google "tech 2 clone" and a ton of info pops up
If the O2 sensor was the problem , the ECM (Computer) fuel trim counts should immediately start changing back to around 128 on the long term. I usually just disconnect the battery for a minute because it clears all the computers adjustments it may of made with a bad sensor.
@@GhettoWagon Is there a way to test if it is actually dead? Mine puts out a consistent 0.5 volts when running with the wire disconnected, running on the substituted fuel map. Also, how did you clear the computer code?
Some old program that you probably cant get and a OBD2 cable. Honestly its cheaper and easier just to pickup a Clone GM tech 2 from Hong Kong,. 250-300 dollars . Its what I use now
+Veikra with the sensor disconnected I know it wont go into closed loop. Maybe this sensor is ON its way out? It runs fine when the ecm is in open loop. I have a new o2 sensor, May change it. I doubt it has any exhaust leaks at the manifold - Y pipe throwing off the reading. But Ill check that too
thee o2 codes sets if it's too rich or too lean for 30sec. So cruising down mostly. And yes, it's a failing sensor. Exaust leak usually cause a running rich situation, but the computer wont see it. Youll see it in the Lterm and Sterm counts as the extra air plus the overfuel balances out
Veikra Ya the LT is 108, Thats mad rich. St, not so bad, 121, but it seems to go to the rich side when driven, usually this truck was more on the lean side last time I scanned it. I have a new ACD/ Denso sensor, Made in JAPAN! I know the sensor will come right out, The exhaust guy who died had it out when it put the Y pipe on for me not very long ago
Ghetto Wagon actually they are close to center in the vid. 128 is the center point iirc 108 isnt too far. I bet while driving it gets out of whack. But idlying like this, the o2 only looks lazy in cross counts, so it may stick at one point when driving, and throw the trims way out of wack and backing it the fuel, causing the drivability problems
Loved the video bro. I have a question about a code 32 that pops up when I run my 95 k1500 5.7L on the highway. I changed EGR valve, vacuum solenoid, map sensor and egr vacuum hose. All that and code popped up again. I cleaned idle control valve, swapped throttle position sensor. Still having issues. Im damn near pulling my scalp off lol! Idk if changing transmission speed sensor will help any, but i it did anyway. Hopefully someone has any tips or theories that can help me out.
EGR solenoid OK and connected? Code 32 is EGR only, Bad EGR . NEw ones are crap these days too. bad EGR solenoid. Bad EGR vaccum source at solenoid or at EGR valve or the EGR port is packed with carbon
Okay that makes sense. Same thing with my 94 k1500. Same exact issue. Tried that throttle bottle cleaner. Even though of the IAC but it’s the 02
Ya My o2 was dead, New one fixed it up., Then it ran bad like a year after.. was the fuel pump. Had like really low pressure. Now it just works great! New o2 new fuel pump. Runs very nice. 1994 Best damn year keep it
@@GhettoWagon yeah I’m going to try out the 02 when it gets here. When it come to my truck picking was between a 94 extended cab or a 00 single cab long bed. But the 94 was loaded. Had a factory tach, and the nice cup holders below the radio. Many know how much them cup holders are worth it in these years
@@GhettoWagonis there a way to test an O2 with a scanner?
yea the wave length / voltage should be steady w/o much hang up on any value. basically its just a wave Max to min over and over If its slow? to react its dying OR... another issue is happening like its running lean. rich from something upstream of the o2 @@MHolt3573
Thank you I couldn't find a video that had the same problem as me
Changed the o2 and it was good? Mine was pegged rich, dead o2. Changed it, perfect. Then a year? Later the fuel pump was weak and causing it to go way lean randomly. :D IDC. I fix it.
@@GhettoWagon my truck has 270k I am replacing my fuel pump soon
Does this thing get driven often.?...I have OBD1 in my '38 and I only use it for timing adjustments...It's a great system 'cos of the minimal control the ECU has over the engine...I always disconnect the battery when it's parked in the shed "that's most of it's time" and it does a real quick re-learn on the tune when I can get the time to fire it up..Does yours have a "full lean" in Park and neutral.?..The Bosch system in my Chevy does...Very loud sucking noise from a pod filter gives it all away..But I do have an improved memcal in the ECU...Plug and play deal...Adds fuel and timing and no CEL.
+ZIGgassedUP Its been sitting for 3 months or so. I am not sure about how lean the ECM wants to make it. These TBI engines do not have a vacuum adjustable fuel regulator so its always too lean, or too rich at idle. I was also thinking because it sits and its hot here the charcoal canister could be loaded up with fuel vapors from the hot gas tank.
I have a 1994 GMC k1500 5.7 that has been running rich since I bought it. I have bought a brand new throttle body that came with the new injectors and idle air control valve as well with the throttle position senser. I also put a new temperature coolant sensor in along with a new o2 senser and mass air flow senser. New starter and plugs with wires as well as a cap and rotor. All of this has been done in the past week and it's still running rich. I did pull the plugs to check them again and noticed that my # 7 and # 8 have black sludge look to them. So I have just bought a new distributor and will be installing that Friday as well as doing the timing. If that don't work the only other thing I haven't replaced is the EGR valve. Any input from anyone would be helpful thanks.
There is no mass airflow sensor. If its running truly rich check the fuel pressure could be dripping fuel injector could be too much pressure from a messed up fuel pressure regulator or someone messed with it raising the pressure. If one plug is fouling could have a bad valve seal. Valve guide and its fouling it with oil. EGR valve wont do anything. I dunno why so many think the EGR valve causes so much. Its only used at part throttle to mix exhaust gasses in to lower combustion temps and clean up the tail pipe emissions. When mine was broken from a ripped diaphragm I always felt it ran better then after when I fixed it
Okay so I have a 1985 monte carlo with the 4.3L V6 and I'm throwing codes 34 and 45 as well .. my symptoms are sluggish on acceleration and no power ... could this as well be the O2 , you think ?
could be. Or its just running rich and lean. Code 34 is a mass air flow code maybe its dirty? unplugged?
@@GhettoWagon I figured out what is was ! The car only has 52k miles on it so i figured everything was good aside from the o2 sensor ... but it turns out I had a rocker arm nut that backed off and that cylinder wasn't firing correctly so it was blowing straight gas through giving me a rich/lean code
I noticed the timing spiking to 20btdc at idle.?..Does that program show A/F ratio.?
+ZIGgassedUP The timing is always about that when the set timing connector is plugged in. IT jumps around sometimes I need to built a new distributor for it, it has too much up and down play. Have the parts, Just got to build it. A/F Radio, I think I can make it show that.
Could you do a video on your diagnostic tool how it works and what software to take for this type of truck please
I would but then just another mindless moron will dislike the video. I'm done trying to help people no one appreciates anything :(
Anthony Acosta Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It does live, record, graphing, code connect to diagnose codes, oil light reset, smog readiness test, and MORE! It comes with a OBDI cables for Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and 2 Toyota cables. It has a cigarette lighter cable, instructions. Get a 12v cigarette lighter adaptor for the battery. It works from 1983-2013. It is updatable.
The people who appreciate you most never have to come back to this video. We saw what you did and got it right. Someone who didn't get it right will comment something negative. Take the views to comment ratio into account.
Hi I have a 91 Chevy pick up 350 5.7 tbi my injectors are dumping fuel I've changed the map sensor the coolant temp sensor distributor rotory button any ideas
TBI leaking internall bad o rings around the injectors, bad injectors. Fuel pressure too high.
If it was running rich/lean, still and O2? Or air pump?
Rich the o2 sensor was cooked. Was old. Been through alot. No air pump on this model
What program are you using to connect ? What’s the process ?
How did you hook you computer up to it
Hi I have a 1994 Chevy 1500 5.7 tbi I feel like my rpm drops very low when I put into any gear I’ve changed a few sensors already and nothing seems to solve the problem any advice?
Make sure TPS sensor is adjusted right . Should be like .5 volt at around idle. And fuel pressure could be low. Timing could be retarded.
@@GhettoWagon timing as in the distributor timing?
@@GhettoWagon and how can I check the fuel pressure? Sorry I’m only 17 and new to these trucks I just rather learn it myself so I know better next time
@@victor2x668 need a TBI fuel pressure adapter. Goes inline either at the throttle body or the fuel filter. YA ignition timing if its retarded it will idle low.
On your video I seen your rpm is also low has it always been like that and is that normal? I feel like mine is too low and it’s like at around 550 sometimes 600 in reverse or drive and when I turn on the ac it completely shuts off
crazy! I just bought a 95 Yukon on Friday that has the same code but runs way worse. dies in gear has no power and idles like its missing on two holes.
+john jensen Mine was not that bad, I just changed the o2 sensor an hr ago, Video on that soon, It runs decent now. If its really running bad, Check for vac leaks, you will hear it, those crappy hoses, nylon tubes will split with age) Pull off the air cleaner, make sure one of the injectors is not dumping fuel, just dripping it into the throttle body instead of spraying. If that's good, Unplug the MAP sensor, (green connector it always breaks) if it runs better the map sensor could be bad That or the o2 sensor could be sleepy. Does it run on when its cold? Gets worse when it warms up? If you have a few OBD1 cars Get a a OBD1 USB cable and find a free program that give you live data, Its a ghetto scan tool but it works.
@@GhettoWagon Thanks dude
did you fix it? my suburban has the same problem with running rich, and i cant pass smog... i replaced a few things and still the same problem.
yea the o2 sensor was dead and all fouled up. I put it in the description
Do any one know whats d oxygen sensor life span ? ? or is it life warranty ? ?
Thanks I think I have this problem on my 89 Regal the idle is terrible 50% of the time but anything off idle it runs like a scalded dog. The exhaust seems to be inconsistent sometimes it smells pig rich and other times lean. It's particularly smelly on Startup
Could be if it runs rough or rich then back to normal ONLY in closed loop, (when it warms up about 150* degrees coolant temp) Best is to get some sort of logging tool and check the o2 sensor waves. Now I have a CLONE GM tech 2 scan tool, u can buy one too they are allover ali express or ebay for 250-300 bucks shipped from china Works just like the GM tech 2 and works good on OBD1 vehicles. Trucks been good after the o2 swap Did have the fuel pump die about a year later, was weak ran really lean and stalled out. o2 sensor failure made it run pig rich!
@@GhettoWagon cool. I like the idea of getting some software for my laptop like you're using in this video I don't drive this car very much and all my other cars are OBD2. Also if I turn off the car and restart it things seem to settle back to normal. I clean the IAC and it seemed to respond very well to that. I should look into the O2 however it's been in there a long time
Ya this was a old version of datamaster. I don't like it but it shows some stuff. The tech 2 is better its what the dealer would of used. And I can manually cycle stuff with the tool @@widtrak77
@@GhettoWagon yeah I can understand wanting the bidirectional capability. All I want to be able to see if things are within parameters.
@@widtrak77 yea tech 2 clone does it. look for a tech 2 clone just realize some are kinda mehh. I had to pick apart the connectors on mine now they seat like a legit one. Everything else works fine on it. Get one before the trade tariffs happen. Just google "tech 2 clone" and a ton of info pops up
carburetor cleaner on the o2 sensor, clean it and your back on track.
Nahh this thing was old might as well just pop in a new one they are cheap
I had too because mine got crossed threaded. had to replace it later on. just made it work meanwhile by cleaning it. lol.
@@juanvenado9707 I know this is a year old, but that's interesting. Didn't know they were cleanable..... even as a temporary fix.
Man I'm real interested in that software and tool you're using to connect to your truck
Its Datamaster and it sucks, Probably better off trying another software, Its paid for software if then even still sell it
after putting a new o2 sensor in. is there a time frame for the running rich condition to be adjusted back to normal by the ecm?
If the O2 sensor was the problem , the ECM (Computer) fuel trim counts should immediately start changing back to around 128 on the long term. I usually just disconnect the battery for a minute because it clears all the computers adjustments it may of made with a bad sensor.
Did you ever figure it out? You missed the temp reading. It was -40 degrees. I'm surprised you didn't get code 15. Temp sensor code.
It does not bave one or use that sensor. Always did that Some inputs pick it up some dont
When it runs like that is it sluggish won't act like no power
so what did it end up being? did you fix it?
new o2 sensor. fixed
So what did you DO to Fix it???
o2 sensor was old and tired replaced
Temp sensor by the thermostat controls the richness of the tbi just went through myself
Yes it does, but mine was fine. the o2 sensor fouled out. Put in a new Denso/ AC Delco Sensor, made in JAPAN works sweet now
What was it ??
Changed the o2 sensor it was dead
@@GhettoWagon
Is there a way to test if it is actually dead? Mine puts out a consistent 0.5 volts when running with the wire disconnected, running on the substituted fuel map. Also, how did you clear the computer code?
That voltage is being sent from computer to sensor...so your wiring is good.
How are you hooking a laptop to that truck
Some old program that you probably cant get and a OBD2 cable. Honestly its cheaper and easier just to pickup a Clone GM tech 2 from Hong Kong,. 250-300 dollars . Its what I use now
It's not gonna get into closed loop with a bad o2 sensor, only does if it fluctuate
+Veikra with the sensor disconnected I know it wont go into closed loop. Maybe this sensor is ON its way out? It runs fine when the ecm is in open loop. I have a new o2 sensor, May change it. I doubt it has any exhaust leaks at the manifold - Y pipe throwing off the reading. But Ill check that too
thee o2 codes sets if it's too rich or too lean for 30sec. So cruising down mostly. And yes, it's a failing sensor. Exaust leak usually cause a running rich situation, but the computer wont see it. Youll see it in the Lterm and Sterm counts as the extra air plus the overfuel balances out
Veikra
Ya the LT is 108, Thats mad rich. St, not so bad, 121, but it seems to go to the rich side when driven, usually this truck was more on the lean side last time I scanned it. I have a new ACD/ Denso sensor, Made in JAPAN! I know the sensor will come right out, The exhaust guy who died had it out when it put the Y pipe on for me not very long ago
Ghetto Wagon
actually they are close to center in the vid. 128 is the center point iirc 108 isnt too far. I bet while driving it gets out of whack. But idlying like this, the o2 only looks lazy in cross counts, so it may stick at one point when driving, and throw the trims way out of wack and backing it the fuel, causing the drivability problems
Veikra
I will see what I get tomorrow with my Japanese part. Now I have a High quality Import truck!
Fuel trim above 128 adding fuel below 128 taking fuel away
yes
Ur videos are great man, Datamasters looks like the shit as well
I have no power on my truck 94 surberben ob1 port were the power source
2:59 what is code what is code
How do you blink the code please 🙏
Short pins A and B and it will flash out the code after the 1, 1-2 sequence stops.
Loved the video bro. I have a question about a code 32 that pops up when I run my 95 k1500 5.7L on the highway. I changed EGR valve, vacuum solenoid, map sensor and egr vacuum hose. All that and code popped up again. I cleaned idle control valve, swapped throttle position sensor. Still having issues. Im damn near pulling my scalp off lol! Idk if changing transmission speed sensor will help any, but i it did anyway. Hopefully someone has any tips or theories that can help me out.
EGR solenoid OK and connected? Code 32 is EGR only, Bad EGR . NEw ones are crap these days too. bad EGR solenoid. Bad EGR vaccum source at solenoid or at EGR valve or the EGR port is packed with carbon
You probably got it by now but if you don’t disconnect the battery and reset the computer the codes won’t clear
Your cross counts on the o2 seems low, it's a lazy sensor imho
+Veikra Its a old sensor!
I have a actron, works ob1 obd 2 and obd 1.5 with all the gm connectors.
+Veikra OBD 1.5 like the LT1 has
yes. My firebird was like that
Veikra Opel Baujahr Opel 98 Baujahr OBD1 wo kriege ich so ein Gerät
wear did get the computer system.. I need it..
+Paul Barnes Trash found XP laptop, OBD1 USB cable and Datamaster od
OK thanks.. I have a good laptop..
Paul Barnes
Tuner pro RT may also work for live data, not sure I never used it
Check the map sense
No it was the o2. Map sensor gives a map sensor code on these
What is code 42