Here's an important tip when performing these adjustments: let the set warm up to operating temperature first, at least 30 minutes, before attempting adjustments. Various component parts, such as resistors and capacitors, can change value with temperature changes. This is especially true on a set where the parts have endured wear and tear from use and age. You don't want to waste your time calibrating on a cold set since the value change of some parts in the circuit could, in turn, change your calibration as the set warms up to operating temperatures.
Thanks for this video brother! I’ve got a 2530 I’ve got to adjust the yoke on, but without seeing someone else try it first I’ve been hesitating. This helps!
Thanks for the video and calibration tips. I have a 2030 and 2530. The 2530 needed quite a bit of tweaking and your video helped out. There were a couple of differences, but the 2 models seem pretty close.
The PVM-2530 have some things in common with the 2030, but there are also some important differences. The 2530 has additional pincushion adjustments on the D board (T-PIN and B-PIN, short for top pincushion and bottom pincushion, as well as a DIST adjustment). And, there's also dynamic convergence adjustments on the D2 board, located on the rear of the set, which you probably don't want to mess with if all you're after is doing geometry adjustments.
Alex if you happen to see this comment you have probably just saved me lol. I've got a Sony Trinitron 24-in that I had found and it has this problem but it's ever so slight. Hooked up some PS2 games to it and I thought that maybe the component signal was stretching the screen out too much so I hooked up composite cables and it's still doing it. I tried the onboard tilt feature and that didn't fix the problem either so this has got to be the issue. I'm definitely going to give this a shot over the weekend.
Thank you for the Video! Never thought i would get my hands into my 2130qm for the yoke adjustment, without discharging it. Helped a lot to see it. Cheers
Robert Schmidt it's nerve racking the 1st you do it, but for me it's routine now. Almost every crt monitor I get needs at least a small yoke adjustment. I got some high voltage gloves delivered this week. I'll be doing an episode next week on tools and safety equipment. Thanks for watching.
Good Morning! Thank you for a great informative video. I have just been very lucky to receive a Sony Profeel KX-27PS1 monitor. it's a beautiful machine. I'm a bit dubious about opening the back up because of the obvious dangers. I'm operating the grid view on a sega megadrive here in the UK. My grid is totally off!
Wow thanks man. I got one of these. I used to have a book wedged under one corner because the image was tilted. Guess I should give the yoke a tug... I haven't used the 2030 in years. I've been using my bvm 1911 lately but it's been acting up so I might be using the 2030 again soon... The 2030 is the best looking rgb monitor i have seen
I love the 2030's. The look and the stereo amp on the monitor sold me right away. They are a real pain to calibrate and maintain but look so great though once they are calibrated. By far the best PVM form factor ever made by Sony I.M.O.
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing! I've personally found that Wii and Gamecube 240p Test Suite gives me the best "happy medium" between all my consoles from testing several games across like 5 systems with 240p Test Suite. The only console horizontally shifted WAY towards to the right is my Dreamcast. :(
I just made a video calibrating my BVM-D24. The D24 is so much easier to calibrate, wow. And you can get the geometry perfect, and the convergence nearly perfect by just using the on screen menu.
Bob Marley It is so easier and safer on the newer BVMs and the screen & hardware is much more powerful and efficient making a much betrer picture. These 2030s can produce a great picture for being from 1991, but it's an undertaking to calibrate.
Hi, thanks for all your videos. They’ve been extremely helpful, specially for adjusting my 2130QM. The service manual shows how to adjust H. FREQ properly, but I’m afraid it has a typo. It says to input a bar picture and short pins 1 and 11 of IC501 and pins 35 and 36 of IC401. IC401 does not have those many pins. The service manual for the 2530 has the same text, only it’s IC1501 (same IC) and IC401 is another larger one with pins 35 and 36. I’m at a loss here. Only shorting IC501 gives no picture. With other PVMs you need to use a capacitor instead. Have you ever looked into it?
great video. you should definitely do a more in depth video on convergence adjustments, using magnetic strips as they are great for clearing up that corner convergence, and also good when you have one corner that curves
Thank you so much for all this information and presentation. I've recently acquired a 2130QM and I'm sure it will help me immensely fine tuning my monitor. I'm guessing it is the same process and boards layout?
I have a 2530 that the image pulsates, is there any way to fix this? Thank you again for all the great content! I've recently discovered your channel and it's fantastic!
I hope to fix my Bang & Olufsen BeoCenter AV5. The problem is that the tv has a "pincushion" problem (sorry for my english), and some technicians have told me that it will be expensive to fix it, and other technicians said me that it can't fix. I've never opened a crt television, I get a little scared.
Hi, I have this monitor and was working fine but recently the picture has started to shake a little from right to left, do you know what the issue could be?
Curious, what about the old NEC 3PG, and XM/XP/XP+ monitors? I had a few 29" versions and they were glorious, are those just not up to the same specs as the Sony's? I'd love to see those on your channel, the optical coating on those alone was worth it, such great monitors, better black levels and gamma then the Sony aperture grille designs
thank you very much for the video. do you have any tips on how to open the 2030 (i have a 21 i guess it works the same) ? second quesion i have a 2130qm, is it the same inside ?
Hi! I just found one of these in the street but cannot get the buttons to respond (after pressing control, then pressing volume, both buttons just flash as if they are locked) or get any audio out of the speakers. Do you have any idea how I could fix this? Thanks!
Hello! Do you think a 2005 Panasonic Panablack CT-G2995 may have adjustment potentiometers inside? It has a service menu, but the screen has a subtle curvature on the corners and I haven't been able to correct it with the service options. I can't find a single technician with experience on CRTs, I don't know what to do :(
This was fantastic, nicely done! These CRT geometry videos are few and far between. Do these adjustments correlate to a newer PVMs with software adjustments, such as a 14L4? It'd be great to see a video like this but with a newer PVM and also a consumer CRT like a Sony Trinitron of some kind! Thanks for sharing your knowledge, keep it up.
Eric Hurley I will cover geometry and settings on a newer PVM with software built in. Thanks for the ideas. I'm going to be posting lots about crts and pvms. Thanks for watching.
Hey Steve,is there a way to adjust color intensity/saturation on the RGB line? The color buttons on the front dont work on RGB. I have the case off and I do see R Black ADJ,G Black ADJ and B Black ADJ on the right side. Just wondering before I start turning knobs,lol.
Thanks for these great videos. Question: I saw you adjust the yoke on another CRT while it was on, so we could see the display actually rotate as you turned the yoke. Why do you recommend we keep the 2030 shut off during this adjustment? I'm guessing it's because of the tight space where it's easy to touch the wrong things?
Great stuff! Cannot wait for next episodes. About adjusting yoke: did you loose it before roatating? If you moved it clockwise, how come it won't back to it's previous place?
Hey, thanks for watching. I didn't loosen it to make the yoke adjustment. I made a short video specifically about yoke adjustments. Over time the yoke gets loose a little bit and can turn slightly. Check out the other yoke video for all my tips.
Hi, Thank you for this video, I have a 2130QM, very similar. Allthough I can't seem to get the audio working / or did not gind a way to get it to the speakers. Could you send me pm or can I contact you for better explanation? Thank you!
Where will I have the best chances of getting a pvm for a good deal locally? What types of places should I call in your opinion? I live in Arkansas USA
Great video thanks for the upload. Can I ask I have a bouncing picture on the same tv, do you what the issue is? And how I go about repairing it? Thanks again deano
Bean Soup ive had two of these monitors and i have noticed that the image "bounces" very slightly on both of them until they are warmed up. See if it gets better after being on for 30min. Lots of pvm/bvms behave a little funny when you first fire them up.
Hello from Spain! I need your help please... How can i set the vertical size of a super nintendo pal? The limit is the top or the screen? Im using a bang olufsen mx4002. Thanks for all in advance
I wish i could fix my tv. I have a way to do everything on my remote without opening the tv but I just don’t know what to do. I have no idea what anything does.
I have a pvm 2530 and the picture is just slightly shifted to the left. I have the H center potentiometer maxed out and can go any more to the right. Is there any other adjustment that I can do to move it to the right just a little bit more?
Great video man! I've got a 2030 that shuts off after 15 minutes or so of being on. If I turn it off and back on it will quickly shut itself off again. If I turn it off until the next day it will work for 15 minutes and then start the same thing all over again. Any ideas on the problem?
Thanks. It sounds like a power problem. The first step would be to replace the caps in the power supply and check the fuses in that PVM. You might want to check and see if any of the power board needs to have fresh solder applied too.
Chances are the fuses are okay; a bad fuse will generally be open. It could be a faulty component; as the set warms up, a component's value may change to the point where it's out of spec for the circuit. Most likely, it could be a bad solder joint; as the affected joint warms up, it expands and can widen the crack, which can disrupt the electrical connection of the affected part to the circuit. Checking the power supply circuit is a good start, along with checking the horizontal drive circuit.
I got problem with my Sony PVM 2053QM (PAL), on RGB input and on Component i have a little blurred screen. When i set knobs on contrast and brightness to zero then of course i barely see anything but its crystal clear in games for example texts in 16 bit games, any ideas how i can make this crisp look on higher contrast and brightness? i.imgur.com/WKsUXPo.jpg Here you have photo where screen is quite good, almost perfect, its a Snes Station, a snes emulator for ps2 so its connected via component. I really wanna fix my RGB looks :/
Hi. The potentiometers on the back of Flyback control focus and brightness. The top adjusts focus and the bottom knob adjusts brightness. Might want to try those.
Hi there I have a 2030 pvm with a yellow tint issue, this image shows a color bar test imgur.com/a/JSDttXv Does anyone have any ideas about what the cause could be? - A known particular bad cap? - Requires a full board recap? - The tube is almost dead? - Something that can be fixed with RGB gain adjustments?
I've got a 2030 that powers on but I've got a black screen. Any suggestions on where I can start trouble shooting and what I might need to do to get it back online? Thanks!
Dane Olds did you hook a console or other video source into the PVM and turn it on? There is no on screen menu so a black screen is usually a sign that this monitor is working properly.
I'll give that a shot tonight. I was expecting it to have an onscreen menu like my BVM. Thanks for the reply. I'll report back. And thanks for the awesome video. If I get the screen working I'll start by doing the calibrations just like you showed.
Just wanted to report back on what I found. Knowing that I needed a signal to tell if the PVM was working properly I tried using the A input instead of the RGB input. I discovered that the monitor worked when it had video signal on that input so the problem was with the RGB line. I pulled the RGB to CMPTR cable that came with the monitor and cracked it open. Turned out there was a broken connection inside the cable. I soldered that line back together, re-installed the cable and it worked like a charm. I now have RGB through the CMPTR input! Thanks for the help on trouble shooting this!
Say someone needs to replace a potentiometer on one of these... Would these specs work for the replacement part: 22K Ohm Trim Variable Resistor Potentiometer 6mm RM065 223
Here's an important tip when performing these adjustments: let the set warm up to operating temperature first, at least 30 minutes, before attempting adjustments.
Various component parts, such as resistors and capacitors, can change value with temperature changes. This is especially true on a set where the parts have endured wear and tear from use and age.
You don't want to waste your time calibrating on a cold set since the value change of some parts in the circuit could, in turn, change your calibration as the set warms up to operating temperatures.
Thanks for this video brother! I’ve got a 2530 I’ve got to adjust the yoke on, but without seeing someone else try it first I’ve been hesitating. This helps!
Thanks
Thanks for the video and calibration tips. I have a 2030 and 2530. The 2530 needed quite a bit of tweaking and your video helped out. There were a couple of differences, but the 2 models seem pretty close.
Thanks. The 2030 and 2530 are from the same design year and should be similar in adjusting.
The PVM-2530 have some things in common with the 2030, but there are also some important differences.
The 2530 has additional pincushion adjustments on the D board (T-PIN and B-PIN, short for top pincushion and bottom pincushion, as well as a DIST adjustment). And, there's also dynamic convergence adjustments on the D2 board, located on the rear of the set, which you probably don't want to mess with if all you're after is doing geometry adjustments.
I have loads of these 2130qm monitors.
I got one the other day in mint condition with the original speakers for £50 GBP amazing condition
where on earth did you find that?
Thank you! I was going crazy trying to find out how to fix the tilt to the top of the image!
Mirrors are good. Mirrors are your friend. Try one and see.
Alex if you happen to see this comment you have probably just saved me lol. I've got a Sony Trinitron 24-in that I had found and it has this problem but it's ever so slight. Hooked up some PS2 games to it and I thought that maybe the component signal was stretching the screen out too much so I hooked up composite cables and it's still doing it. I tried the onboard tilt feature and that didn't fix the problem either so this has got to be the issue. I'm definitely going to give this a shot over the weekend.
Thanks for the video! I also have a 2030 that I plan to try to recap, as it has some issues. This video was really helpful!
Thank you for the Video! Never thought i would get my hands into my 2130qm for the yoke adjustment, without discharging it. Helped a lot to see it. Cheers
Robert Schmidt it's nerve racking the 1st you do it, but for me it's routine now. Almost every crt monitor I get needs at least a small yoke adjustment. I got some high voltage gloves delivered this week. I'll be doing an episode next week on tools and safety equipment. Thanks for watching.
Good Morning! Thank you for a great informative video. I have just been very lucky to receive a Sony Profeel KX-27PS1 monitor. it's a beautiful machine. I'm a bit dubious about opening the back up because of the obvious dangers. I'm operating the grid view on a sega megadrive here in the UK. My grid is totally off!
I have photos to show.
Thanks for the tutorial, this is gonna help me try to mess w the grid pattern i was doing it wrong lol
Wow thanks man. I got one of these. I used to have a book wedged under one corner because the image was tilted. Guess I should give the yoke a tug... I haven't used the 2030 in years. I've been using my bvm 1911 lately but it's been acting up so I might be using the 2030 again soon... The 2030 is the best looking rgb monitor i have seen
I love the 2030's. The look and the stereo amp on the monitor sold me right away. They are a real pain to calibrate and maintain but look so great though once they are calibrated. By far the best PVM form factor ever made by Sony I.M.O.
Retro Tech. Yeah i have a 20m2mdu as well that is higher tv lines and has barely any hours on it but the beat up old 2030 still is somehow sharper
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing!
I've personally found that Wii and Gamecube 240p Test Suite gives me the best "happy medium" between all my consoles from testing several games across like 5 systems with 240p Test Suite. The only console horizontally shifted WAY towards to the right is my Dreamcast. :(
Yes there is always that one oddball console that will drive you crazy when you turn it on, lol.
I just made a video calibrating my BVM-D24. The D24 is so much easier to calibrate, wow. And you can get the geometry perfect, and the convergence nearly perfect by just using the on screen menu.
Bob Marley It is so easier and safer on the newer BVMs and the screen & hardware is much more powerful and efficient making a much betrer picture. These 2030s can produce a great picture for being from 1991, but it's an undertaking to calibrate.
Well presented 👍🏻................
Hi, thanks for all your videos. They’ve been extremely helpful, specially for adjusting my 2130QM. The service manual shows how to adjust H. FREQ properly, but I’m afraid it has a typo. It says to input a bar picture and short pins 1 and 11 of IC501 and pins 35 and 36 of IC401. IC401 does not have those many pins. The service manual for the 2530 has the same text, only it’s IC1501 (same IC) and IC401 is another larger one with pins 35 and 36. I’m at a loss here. Only shorting IC501 gives no picture. With other PVMs you need to use a capacitor instead. Have you ever looked into it?
great video. you should definitely do a more in depth video on convergence adjustments, using magnetic strips as they are great for clearing up that corner convergence, and also good when you have one corner that curves
AndehX Thanks for the tip. I'm going cover convergence more in a couple different short video coming soon using a different PVM. Thanks again!
Thank you so much for all this information and presentation. I've recently acquired a 2130QM and I'm sure it will help me immensely fine tuning my monitor. I'm guessing it is the same process and boards layout?
I have a 2530 that the image pulsates, is there any way to fix this? Thank you again for all the great content! I've recently discovered your channel and it's fantastic!
I hope to fix my Bang & Olufsen BeoCenter AV5. The problem is that the tv has a "pincushion" problem (sorry for my english), and some technicians have told me that it will be expensive to fix it, and other technicians said me that it can't fix. I've never opened a crt television, I get a little scared.
Thank you, this video was extremely helpful
Hi, I have this monitor and was working fine but recently the picture has started to shake a little from right to left, do you know what the issue could be?
Curious, what about the old NEC 3PG, and XM/XP/XP+ monitors? I had a few 29" versions and they were glorious, are those just not up to the same specs as the Sony's? I'd love to see those on your channel, the optical coating on those alone was worth it, such great monitors, better black levels and gamma then the Sony aperture grille designs
How did you get this calibration boxes image?
thank you very much for the video. do you have any tips on how to open the 2030 (i have a 21 i guess it works the same) ?
second quesion i have a 2130qm, is it the same inside ?
Hi! I just found one of these in the street but cannot get the buttons to respond (after pressing control, then pressing volume, both buttons just flash as if they are locked) or get any audio out of the speakers. Do you have any idea how I could fix this? Thanks!
Hello! Do you think a 2005 Panasonic Panablack CT-G2995 may have adjustment potentiometers inside? It has a service menu, but the screen has a subtle curvature on the corners and I haven't been able to correct it with the service options. I can't find a single technician with experience on CRTs, I don't know what to do :(
I am trying to tune up an old tv. It has some geometry issues, where do i get the a grid ?
This was fantastic, nicely done! These CRT geometry videos are few and far between. Do these adjustments correlate to a newer PVMs with software adjustments, such as a 14L4? It'd be great to see a video like this but with a newer PVM and also a consumer CRT like a Sony Trinitron of some kind! Thanks for sharing your knowledge, keep it up.
Eric Hurley I will cover geometry and settings on a newer PVM with software built in. Thanks for the ideas. I'm going to be posting lots about crts and pvms. Thanks for watching.
Great to hear it, I've subscribed and turned on notifications. Looking forward to the upcoming videos!
Hey Steve,is there a way to adjust color intensity/saturation on the RGB line? The color buttons on the front dont work on RGB. I have the case off and I do see R Black ADJ,G Black ADJ and B Black ADJ on the right side. Just wondering before I start turning knobs,lol.
Thanks for these great videos. Question: I saw you adjust the yoke on another CRT while it was on, so we could see the display actually rotate as you turned the yoke. Why do you recommend we keep the 2030 shut off during this adjustment? I'm guessing it's because of the tight space where it's easy to touch the wrong things?
i love your collection !!! i‘m a collector to;)
Great stuff! Cannot wait for next episodes.
About adjusting yoke: did you loose it before roatating? If you moved it clockwise, how come it won't back to it's previous place?
Hey, thanks for watching. I didn't loosen it to make the yoke adjustment. I made a short video specifically about yoke adjustments. Over time the yoke gets loose a little bit and can turn slightly. Check out the other yoke video for all my tips.
Hi, Thank you for this video, I have a 2130QM, very similar.
Allthough I can't seem to get the audio working / or did not gind a way to get it to the speakers.
Could you send me pm or can I contact you for better explanation? Thank you!
What is causing the wobble in the picture. I'm sure it's invisible to the naked eye but still curious ;)
Where will I have the best chances of getting a pvm for a good deal locally? What types of places should I call in your opinion? I live in Arkansas USA
Great video thanks for the upload. Can I ask I have a bouncing picture on the same tv, do you what the issue is? And how I go about repairing it? Thanks again deano
Hi. Thank you. Try turning the V-Hold knob on the back of the PVM until it's stable. Thankfully that is an easy fix.
Bean Soup ive had two of these monitors and i have noticed that the image "bounces" very slightly on both of them until they are warmed up. See if it gets better after being on for 30min. Lots of pvm/bvms behave a little funny when you first fire them up.
hi, can you tell me exactly what type of screwdriver and glove you use?
Hello from Spain! I need your help please... How can i set the vertical size of a super nintendo pal? The limit is the top or the screen? Im using a bang olufsen mx4002. Thanks for all in advance
I wish i could fix my tv. I have a way to do everything on my remote without opening the tv but I just don’t know what to do. I have no idea what anything does.
I have a pvm 2530 and the picture is just slightly shifted to the left. I have the H center potentiometer maxed out and can go any more to the right. Is there any other adjustment that I can do to move it to the right just a little bit more?
hello, is it possible to fix a box above and below?
Great video man! I've got a 2030 that shuts off after 15 minutes or so of being on. If I turn it off and back on it will quickly shut itself off again. If I turn it off until the next day it will work for 15 minutes and then start the same thing all over again. Any ideas on the problem?
Thanks. It sounds like a power problem. The first step would be to replace the caps in the power supply and check the fuses in that PVM. You might want to check and see if any of the power board needs to have fresh solder applied too.
Thanks, I'll check that out. Nice Nature Boy shrine btw
Chances are the fuses are okay; a bad fuse will generally be open.
It could be a faulty component; as the set warms up, a component's value may change to the point where it's out of spec for the circuit.
Most likely, it could be a bad solder joint; as the affected joint warms up, it expands and can widen the crack, which can disrupt the electrical connection of the affected part to the circuit. Checking the power supply circuit is a good start, along with checking the horizontal drive circuit.
I got problem with my Sony PVM 2053QM (PAL), on RGB input and on Component i have a little blurred screen. When i set knobs on contrast and brightness to zero then of course i barely see anything but its crystal clear in games for example texts in 16 bit games, any ideas how i can make this crisp look on higher contrast and brightness?
i.imgur.com/WKsUXPo.jpg
Here you have photo where screen is quite good, almost perfect, its a Snes Station, a snes emulator for ps2 so its connected via component. I really wanna fix my RGB looks :/
Hi. The potentiometers on the back of Flyback control focus and brightness. The top adjusts focus and the bottom knob adjusts brightness. Might want to try those.
Thank you, im gonna try it, then i report my results!
Hi there I have a 2030 pvm with a yellow tint issue, this image shows a color bar test
imgur.com/a/JSDttXv
Does anyone have any ideas about what the cause could be?
- A known particular bad cap?
- Requires a full board recap?
- The tube is almost dead?
- Something that can be fixed with RGB gain adjustments?
I've got a 2030 that powers on but I've got a black screen. Any suggestions on where I can start trouble shooting and what I might need to do to get it back online? Thanks!
Dane Olds did you hook a console or other video source into the PVM and turn it on? There is no on screen menu so a black screen is usually a sign that this monitor is working properly.
I'll give that a shot tonight. I was expecting it to have an onscreen menu like my BVM. Thanks for the reply. I'll report back. And thanks for the awesome video. If I get the screen working I'll start by doing the calibrations just like you showed.
Just wanted to report back on what I found. Knowing that I needed a signal to tell if the PVM was working properly I tried using the A input instead of the RGB input. I discovered that the monitor worked when it had video signal on that input so the problem was with the RGB line. I pulled the RGB to CMPTR cable that came with the monitor and cracked it open. Turned out there was a broken connection inside the cable. I soldered that line back together, re-installed the cable and it worked like a charm. I now have RGB through the CMPTR input! Thanks for the help on trouble shooting this!
Are you using a NES 72 pin connector as part of your shim?
I actually was here. It was one that I could not refurb/repair. Good eye
what on this crt can kill you or really really hurt you?
ua-cam.com/video/d1mQupQHFkc/v-deo.html
Say someone needs to replace a potentiometer on one of these... Would these specs work for the replacement part: 22K Ohm Trim Variable Resistor Potentiometer 6mm RM065 223
My ''picture bow pot'' is missing, which makes it much harder to adjust the corners...and I have no idea where to get one.🥲