This is the ONLY video shows you how to do it for Mazda. Have no clue why on earth Mazda chose to be pain when it comes to push piston back. All videos out there do not work for Mazda. Thanks very much Paul!
Hey Paul.Thanks for sharing this technique with us , it certainly helped me out. Was able to go straight to the garage and do that job on my daughter’s car for her. Pads had plenty of meat still and yes I lubed the pin slides. Handbrake is awesome now and brakes feel heeeps better all round. Hope your doing well, and that life and health is on the improve for you. Jonathan from Sydney
Just heard the tail end of the video where you mentioned your battle with cancer. My heart goes out to you and I truly hope you are doing well and winning that battle. I went through it with my Dad a few years back. Thanks so much for this video and for sharing your knowledge. It truly did help me fix my wife’s car. And I will share what I learned with my neighbor who is a mechanic himself. Your lessons will live on forever! Thanks mate!
Great video, solved my issue on a 2015 BM series. A little warning to BM owners however, as I discovered that grinding noise may actually be pad to rotor. I replaced both sides of course, only to discover that the left had just reached metal while the right still had around 5mm before the metal 'sensor' tab. NO metal tab on one side and these were the genuine Mazda pads from when the car was bought in September 2015. Good luck to Paul in his personal fight.
Dear Paul of Perth, I am praying to the creator or to that which is everywhere present with all of my heart this message finds you well. I pray that healing force which is everywhere present will be with you where ever and however you now find yourself. Your Pegasus shirt is a delightful attire to wear as you give this demonstration. My '08 Mazda may have corrosion issues which so far have daunted my efforts. But your video found me and gives me hope. I would only ask when is trying to persuade a reluctant component like this to retract pointless. The piston was so far out it took the rubber boot with it. The pads were so thin the horrible noise had me pretty much driving as much as possible without using the brakes for months since it just got worse and worse sounding . My surprise was NOT finding metal on metal damage to the rotors that I can tell. And the hand brake caliper end does still seem to function somehow too. The sliders seem like they have never been greased as well. There was no pulling them out without figuring out that I could get the piston part of the caliper off by leaving them in. I was able to grap and gently twist and pull them each out to inspect them. It does seem like they are not damaged but between the rubber and the steel there was SO much friction! Again: Bless you Paul! I really enjoyed your video. Thank you very much. Peace be with you and yours! K.Z.
Yeah in the U.S.A. we call it a C clamp too. I never understood J clamp because it isn’t really shaped like a J. But I’m sure there is a reason and I’m just missing it, haha.
Thank-you for posting this video. I've replaced GM brakes and had no problems, but Mazda had me completely stumped. Now I'll go and replicate what you did. Thanks again.
Thanks so much. I recently changed the brakes on my Mercedes c300 with no issues with pushing in the piston but when I tried it with my Mazda 3 2010, it would not budge. Thanks so much for the detailed explanation and my prayers to you for healing 🙏...
The moment i jeard the aussie accent i knew i was gonna hear exactly what i needed to hear in perfect detail. Ya folks down under are really something else when It comes to automotive prowess.
This video is exactly what I need it in the past. I have turned them in, but the Mazda rear one is the one would not retract. I'm going to try what you suggest with my compression tool and by Screwing it in.. Thank you so much. It's exactly what I need it.
What a great commentary on this exercise. I sort of figured what's needed but great to hear from a cluey guy on a clever method of piston retraction. Go fight the big C mate
This was an awesome video but even more $ savings from learning what and how to do this break job. I have been stuck with this for 2 day. Waking up to finish the job. Thank you!
Hey buddy thank you for what you showed me you actually explained it in a way I clearly understand I appreciate you for making this video for people like myself, and you are in mine and my family's prayers
Thank you so much for this video. I've done heaps of brakes in the past (turning the rears in) but this had me stumped while doing the wifes 2008 Mazda 3! I'd read on Mazda forums, but they say just to turn the piston with a pair of needle nosed pliers while pushing in. I think you'd have to be the Hulk to push in that hard with pliers!! Again, thank you & all the best with your health.
Hi Paul, fantastic to see you're doing better than a couple of months ago. I came across this video after i'd already spent 45mins like an idiot turning the dam piston to no avail so when i came across this video it was an absolute godsend!! You're a deadset legend mate! Your more recent videos ive seen really exemplify how much of a genuine stand up guy you are. Wishing you all the very best and peace with whatever you decide to do. Rooting for you
Thanks for the tutorial. You've saved my bacon. What a pain in the arse, thanks Mazda. I'm just a home mechanic, but have done heaps of brakes that are either push or wind back. After realizing these were neither, I checked youtube. the first vid was an American workshop that said you just have to open the bleed screw and wind back, simple . (eye roll) I would like to see the mechanism of that piston though.
Thank you for the explanation. I was changing the rear rotor and pads today and couldn't get the new pads to fit in. I kept turning the piston but it would not go back. Tomorrow I will try again using the C clamp to put pressure while rotating.
Wow thanks I been trying to compress this thing a bit The whole piston came out of the rubber boot Looks to have threads, I will compress it and tighten it tomorrow The caliper may be worn out the brake pad was loose ratiling inside not against the rotor 😮
Thanks for the info. Little bit too late for me though, just dismantled my caliper because I thought I had a jammed one 😂 Well, gonna buy the repair kit tomorrow. I wish you get better Paul. Love from Malaysia ❤
Thanks Paul, that is very helpful, I was just about to try doing it this this week. It is very kind of you teaching and thinking of others. We think of you and wish you all the best.
Thank you for your kind words Mahmoud. I wish you all the best for your job this week with your rear brake pads. I am glad I was able to make the job easier. Bless you. Paul.
Thanks Paul, that explains why I could not initially push the brake caliper piston, I had to do this to replace my brake pads and to fix a parking brake issue.
Thanks for this video! I found it helpful. I wanted to know when braking to a stop on my mazda 2011 i hear a clicking sound and i feel that it has to be a brake line would be in relation to tightening the emergency brake cable? Or would it be some else in your experience? Car comes to a stop just fine its just an annoying sound.
It can be a whole lot of different things. I once had a customer car whose brake made a heck of a racket. When we looked closely, it turned out that a little chip of gravel had got stuck in between the disk pad and rotor. It screeched like a banshee. So just pull wheel off and have a good look. Regreasing the slider pins is always a good idea. Yes, it could also be the handbrake cable, so look at that too. And think laterally. It could also be a techscrew in the tyre that you only hear at low speed. Don't be afraid to get in and have a look. The only thing to avoid as a home mechanic are the hydraulic lines. Once you breach those you need to bleed the brakes. So leave them alone. The hydraulic lines are the rubber hoses that bolt into the calliper housing. All the best, Paul.
@@PaulinPerthThanks Paul will have a decent look, just replaced the tyres not long ago and this noise pre dates the tyre change. Will go through your recommendations, appreciate your response. All the best.
Thank you so much Paul. Jesus says to cast your burdens on him. He loves you and wants you to end up in heaven with Him. Whether you die soon or in 50 years, God's word says we have to repent and believe the gospel, which is that Jesus. Died was buried and rose from the dead. And that's the payment for our sins. Jesus said unless we repent we will perish, we all have to repent and turn from living in wilful sin. thank you so much. Your video was very helpful. I'm gonna go out and try to do it right now. I'm gonna pray that you are healed over your cancer. .
@@PaulinPerth Thank you! It started to spin without moving at the end and the oil pressure was enough to make it close to pop off. Just a pull after that. Piston was looking good so I figured I just needed an oil flush. Works perfectly now.
This is the ONLY video shows you how to do it for Mazda. Have no clue why on earth Mazda chose to be pain when it comes to push piston back. All videos out there do not work for Mazda. Thanks very much Paul!
Hey Paul.Thanks for sharing this technique with us , it certainly helped me out.
Was able to go straight to the garage and do that job on my daughter’s car for her.
Pads had plenty of meat still and yes I lubed the pin slides.
Handbrake is awesome now and brakes feel heeeps better all round.
Hope your doing well, and that life and health is on the improve for you.
Jonathan from Sydney
Just heard the tail end of the video where you mentioned your battle with cancer. My heart goes out to you and I truly hope you are doing well and winning that battle. I went through it with my Dad a few years back. Thanks so much for this video and for sharing your knowledge. It truly did help me fix my wife’s car. And I will share what I learned with my neighbor who is a mechanic himself. Your lessons will live on forever! Thanks mate!
Great video, solved my issue on a 2015 BM series. A little warning to BM owners however, as I discovered that grinding noise may actually be pad to rotor. I replaced both sides of course, only to discover that the left had just reached metal while the right still had around 5mm before the metal 'sensor' tab. NO metal tab on one side and these were the genuine Mazda pads from when the car was bought in September 2015.
Good luck to Paul in his personal fight.
Well done.
Thanks man, awesome video
Hope your taking care and appreciate you sharing your knowledge ! You’ll beat cancer!
Thank you so much i appreciate your help 🎉
Dear Paul of Perth,
I am praying to the creator or to that which is everywhere present with all of my heart this message finds you well.
I pray that healing force which is everywhere present will be with you where ever and however you now find yourself.
Your Pegasus shirt is a delightful attire to wear as you give this demonstration. My '08 Mazda may have corrosion issues which so far have daunted my efforts. But your video found me and gives me hope. I would only ask when is trying to persuade a reluctant component like this to retract pointless. The piston was so far out it took the rubber boot with it. The pads were so thin the horrible noise had me pretty much driving as much as possible without using the brakes for months since it just got worse and worse sounding .
My surprise was NOT finding metal on metal damage to the rotors that I can tell. And the hand brake caliper end does still seem to function somehow too. The sliders seem like they have never been greased as well. There was no pulling them out without figuring out that I could get the piston part of the caliper off by leaving them in. I was able to grap and gently twist and pull them each out to inspect them. It does seem like they are not damaged but between the rubber and the steel there was SO much friction! Again: Bless you Paul! I really enjoyed your video. Thank you very much. Peace be with you and yours!
K.Z.
It works, but in Canada we call that a 'C' clamp. Thanks for the video. I did waste some time doing this incorrectly.
Yeah in the U.S.A. we call it a C clamp too. I never understood J clamp because it isn’t really shaped like a J. But I’m sure there is a reason and I’m just missing it, haha.
@@zx4133 We call it a G clamp not a J clamp (because it's shaped like a G) maybe the Aussie accent is catching you off haha
Thank-you for posting this video. I've replaced GM brakes and had no problems, but Mazda had me completely stumped. Now I'll go and replicate what you did. Thanks again.
Thanks so much. I recently changed the brakes on my Mercedes c300 with no issues with pushing in the piston but when I tried it with my Mazda 3 2010, it would not budge. Thanks so much for the detailed explanation and my prayers to you for healing 🙏...
The moment i jeard the aussie accent i knew i was gonna hear exactly what i needed to hear in perfect detail. Ya folks down under are really something else when It comes to automotive prowess.
This video is exactly what I need it in the past. I have turned them in, but the Mazda rear one is the one would not retract. I'm going to try what you suggest with my compression tool and by Screwing it in.. Thank you so much. It's exactly what I need it.
Ridiculously helpful!! Thank you!!
I was totally stuck and yet you got me through it. It's awesome that you are able to share the knowledge and I hope you are doing well.
Great video. Very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to do this… sincerely.
Perfect video. Instantly helped my friend and I solve the problem we were having. Thank you !!
What a great commentary on this exercise. I sort of figured what's needed but great to hear from a cluey guy on a clever method of piston retraction. Go fight the big C mate
This was an awesome video but even more $ savings from learning what and how to do this break job. I have been stuck with this for 2 day. Waking up to finish the job. Thank you!
Great video. So helpful. Who knew you had to rotate and compress? Thanks Paul!
After I ruined a clamp I found this video and had my calliper pressed in two minutes.
Thank you!! This was very helpful!
Excellent video!👍🙏Praying for your fast recovery.
Thanks for the tip...I'm going outside to use this method right now. Thanks from Canada!!
Thank you Paul. God bless you
Great video! Just what I needed to complete the repair. Thank you!!
You Absolute Legend, you saved my day. Got the brakes done in no time, perfect video
Hey buddy thank you for what you showed me you actually explained it in a way I clearly understand I appreciate you for making this video for people like myself, and you are in mine and my family's prayers
Thanks, Paul. Great tutorial. Much appreciated.Wishing you all the best with your health.
Thank you so much for this video. I've done heaps of brakes in the past (turning the rears in) but this had me stumped while doing the wifes 2008 Mazda 3! I'd read on Mazda forums, but they say just to turn the piston with a pair of needle nosed pliers while pushing in. I think you'd have to be the Hulk to push in that hard with pliers!!
Again, thank you & all the best with your health.
Hi Paul, fantastic to see you're doing better than a couple of months ago. I came across this video after i'd already spent 45mins like an idiot turning the dam piston to no avail so when i came across this video it was an absolute godsend!! You're a deadset legend mate! Your more recent videos ive seen really exemplify how much of a genuine stand up guy you are. Wishing you all the very best and peace with whatever you decide to do. Rooting for you
Thank you Mike. And I'm glad I was able to help you.
Thank you for making this video! You are doing God's work.
Thanks for the tutorial. You've saved my bacon.
What a pain in the arse, thanks Mazda.
I'm just a home mechanic, but have done heaps of brakes that are either push or wind back.
After realizing these were neither, I checked youtube.
the first vid was an American workshop that said you just have to open the bleed screw and wind back, simple . (eye roll)
I would like to see the mechanism of that piston though.
Paul u helped me show my stubborn ex how to do this after he broke his g clamp and told me the calliper is seased 😂
Oh, that must have felt good. How lovely. Paul.
You save my day!!!
You are welcome.
Thanks 👍 heaaapz
Legendary M8
Thank you for the explanation. I was changing the rear rotor and pads today and couldn't get the new pads to fit in. I kept turning the piston but it would not go back. Tomorrow I will try again using the C clamp to put pressure while rotating.
Wow thanks I been trying to compress this thing a bit The whole piston came out of the rubber boot Looks to have threads, I will compress it and tighten it tomorrow The caliper may be worn out the brake pad was loose ratiling inside not against the rotor 😮
Paul, thank you. All the best with your cancer battle.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! I really appreciate it! Love from Canada
Thanks for the info. Little bit too late for me though, just dismantled my caliper because I thought I had a jammed one 😂 Well, gonna buy the repair kit tomorrow. I wish you get better Paul. Love from Malaysia ❤
Paul, ya saved me from tearing my hair out while doing my rear brakes. Tons of love from across the lake!
Thanks Paul, that is very helpful, I was just about to try doing it this this week. It is very kind of you teaching and thinking of others. We think of you and wish you all the best.
Thank you for your kind words Mahmoud. I wish you all the best for your job this week with your rear brake pads. I am glad I was able to make the job easier.
Bless you.
Paul.
Buddy, this was perfect...!
Thanks.
You are an angel from heaven. Thank you.
Thanks Paul, that explains why I could not initially push the brake caliper piston, I had to do this to replace my brake pads and to fix a parking brake issue.
Thank you for your awesome video! You're the best, best of luck to you!
may the car gods be in your favour, thank you
Thank you great teacher hope your private battle goes well.
Thank you so very much this was helpful
That might be the worst engeneering designed brakes ever but great video ill try it twomorow
Thanks Paul!
Thank you. 😉
thank you!!
Thanks
Just what I needed to know. Very helpful.
Great info.
great video will be praying that you get healed in JESUS' HOLY NAME.
THANK YOU
I found an angle Grinder tool that fits the holes works well
Thanks for this video! I found it helpful. I wanted to know when braking to a stop on my mazda 2011 i hear a clicking sound and i feel that it has to be a brake line would be in relation to tightening the emergency brake cable? Or would it be some else in your experience? Car comes to a stop just fine its just an annoying sound.
It can be a whole lot of different things. I once had a customer car whose brake made a heck of a racket. When we looked closely, it turned out that a little chip of gravel had got stuck in between the disk pad and rotor. It screeched like a banshee.
So just pull wheel off and have a good look. Regreasing the slider pins is always a good idea. Yes, it could also be the handbrake cable, so look at that too.
And think laterally. It could also be a techscrew in the tyre that you only hear at low speed.
Don't be afraid to get in and have a look. The only thing to avoid as a home mechanic are the hydraulic lines. Once you breach those you need to bleed the brakes. So leave them alone. The hydraulic lines are the rubber hoses that bolt into the calliper housing.
All the best,
Paul.
@@PaulinPerthThanks Paul will have a decent look, just replaced the tyres not long ago and this noise pre dates the tyre change. Will go through your recommendations, appreciate your response. All the best.
I wash pushing the piston using a ring spanner😂😂.... Thanks
Thank you so much Paul. Jesus says to cast your burdens on him. He loves you and wants you to end up in heaven with Him. Whether you die soon or in 50 years, God's word says we have to repent and believe the gospel, which is that Jesus. Died was buried and rose from the dead. And that's the payment for our sins. Jesus said unless we repent we will perish, we all have to repent and turn from living in wilful sin. thank you so much. Your video was very helpful. I'm gonna go out and try to do it right now. I'm gonna pray that you are healed over your cancer.
.
What if you want to get the pisont completely out to brush it clean?
I'm not certain, but they might spin out if you keep turning the piston. Try it and let me know. Just be careful not to damage the rubber seal. Paul.
@@PaulinPerth Thank you! It started to spin without moving at the end and the oil pressure was enough to make it close to pop off. Just a pull after that. Piston was looking good so I figured I just needed an oil flush. Works perfectly now.
I'll take why mechanics hate engineers for $1000
too much chatter. 5 minutes to get to the point. thanks anyway.
Thank you