Thanks for the demonstration. I have a re-built 350 that had been sitting a while. This will help me with the lubrication before trying to fire up the engine. Thanks again
Thanks, my first time doing it. I only have a stock engine but I was worried about the amount of time it was taking. Your tip on rotating the engine was key. I would pump for about two min rotate 90 deg then again. After two crank rotations I had oil coming out every push rod. Cheers!
Great video thanks brother. Back in the 70s and early 80s. We used a long screwdriver no handle of course in a drill. The tip of it was just right for the fit. We would use it when we was putting the distributor in also. Got to have everything lined up and that final little bit into the pump. Glad they make a tool for it know. We also used the white grease and sometimes petroleum jelly. We always had a jar in the tool box or on the work bench. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again brother
Great video Tony. That’s a great tip plugging the hole to force it out of the others. I have seen it where the holes were so plugged that it caused damage on startup because they didn’t ensure oil was flowing correctly. 👍
Great vid. Looking to prime my sbc changed gas tank to go with efi but I'm curious about the Fitech system u have. How's that working out for u? And does it handle the fuel demand for the horse power u have? Responsive? Even at a higher cruising speeds?
The last two day I tried to prime my 350 engine nothing one side I have a couple of them on one side but the other side nothing and now and I have oil pressure up to 60
It's most likely just your prime tool not sealing well enough. An old distributor will get oil up top or just run the engine it will get the oil up top
Question. I have 2 rockers getting a little oil and 1 not getting any. The rest are good to go. I’ve tried rotating the engine while priming. I used regular assembly lube. Nothing I would think could clog up a pushrod. Is this something that will work itself out once the engine is running? Or something I should be concerned about! Thanks!
Yes almost all the time when using a priming tool you only get some of them to push oil. Unless you use an old distributor torn down as the priming tool. Then you will get oil to all of them most of the time.
It's most likely your priming tool not sealing well inside the block. I just had another viewer with the same issue. It was only priming one side. I suggest taking an old distributor and tearing it down and using it as a priming tool. As soon as the other viewer did that it immediately started oiling the other side. You can find many links and videos online how to use an old distributor to prime. Please let me know how it goes 👍
Are you saying you have no oil up top when you prime but have oil pressure? Most likely it's just your prime tool. If you use an old distributor torn down then you will get out up top. Or if you just run the engine it will get it up top
90% chance it's just your priming tool not sealing completely so it only has enough pressure to reach the one head. If you take an old distributor and break it down and use it as your priming tool I bet you will get oil on both sides. Or when you go to start it it will most likely start flowing in both heads. It's a very common issue
Cool video. How long should it take to get oil to rockers just by cranking engine? I didn't have prime tool. Plan on getting one today. Took what seemed like forever just cranking engine. An just barley dribbled out of a few rockers.
@@TonyTheTechnician thanks. Was about to just replace oil pump. But I better test it first with a gauge. Got a free used 350 4 bolt main out of an abandoned 3/4 van. Got it to run on the stand. But debating on changing oil pump before I slap it in the c10
My husband has a new chevy 350 crate motor and a oil primer tool bit his issue is he is getting oil to the driver side rocker arms but absolutely nothing on the passenger side rocker arms, we covered all the holes on the driver side and still nothing and he has been priming it since 4 o clock and still no oil coming from the passenger side. Can you please help?
First thing you want to make sure the oil priming tool is sealing at the bottom near the pump. If it is not it will cause a leak and oil won't make it to that side. So make sure the priming tool works well for your block. If not a different style may be needed or a torn down distributor. If that isn't the problem try turning the engine over by hand and continue to prime after every few rotations. It may take Tim to get pushrods and lifters aligned to let the oil flow. Also keep in mind some engines for some reason just want more rpm to get the oil to that side. You may in some cases have to install distributor and start putting the car to really seal and force oil to that side. Also make sure all galley plugs are in place. If a rear one is missing in the block you will know bc 1 you won't have pressure and 2 oil will be on the ground. But if a front Gally plug is missing then it will feed oil to one side but just flow back to the pan before reaching the other side. These front galley plugs are behind the timing cover. So before all that just make sure the priming tool is sealing that's the biggest part. And then try turning the motor over a full rotation and prime more then do that again and again. I hope this helps. Please let me know how it goes
Most of the time this issue is because of a priming tool not sealing as well as a distributor so a torn down old distributor almost always solves that issue. You can find how to tear them down online. Alot of people do it this way. 👍
How likely is it that one of the front galley plugs is missing? I and he as well would hate to have to take it all apart after being so close to being done with the install to have to take it apart again.
@@brookeowenby8388 as far as the tool not sealing your issue is one of the signs of it not working properly. And unfortunately it is really hard to see if it is sealing. The easiest way would be to try a different one or a distributor.
TonyTheTechnician after the break in what viscosity do you use tho? 5w 30? I get so many different answers, 30 weight, 10-30, 10-40, 20-50 etc. I got a new engine I’m dropping in a couple days appreciate your replies man
CAUTION! I learned the hard way that doing this with a nylon retainer on the intermediate oil pump drive shaft can break the retainer and have the intermediate shaft come out with the priming tool.
Hi again, it's been a while. I'm doing basically the same thing as you are. I have a 98 L31 with the factory 062 heads, fully rebuilt block and heads with new pistons, rings, roller cam, pretty much everything minus the crankshaft. What kind of oil do you recommend for breaking in everything and for how long? Also, what do you recommend I soak the new roller lifters in? Thanks. You can see my build on Instagram @Some_Ginger_Guy
Hey I'm sorry I was never notified of your comment. I know it has been awhile. I have always used either Royal purple break in oil or Valvoline vr1 oil which are both high in zinc and I really like them. I usually run it for 150 to 300 miles then change the oil. And you can soak them in the same oil as well
Thanks for the demonstration. I have a re-built 350 that had been sitting a while. This will help me with the lubrication before trying to fire up the engine. Thanks again
Thanks, my first time doing it. I only have a stock engine but I was worried about the amount of time it was taking. Your tip on rotating the engine was key. I would pump for about two min rotate 90 deg then again. After two crank rotations I had oil coming out every push rod. Cheers!
Very nice. Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching
I’m glad I came across this video! I’m putting a SBC 350 back in my Bel Air that was rebuilt 10 years ago by my grandpa so it is bone dry
Very nice glad you enjoyed
Great video thanks brother. Back in the 70s and early 80s. We used a long screwdriver no handle of course in a drill. The tip of it was just right for the fit. We would use it when we was putting the distributor in also. Got to have everything lined up and that final little bit into the pump. Glad they make a tool for it know. We also used the white grease and sometimes petroleum jelly. We always had a jar in the tool box or on the work bench. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again brother
Scott Pearson TOOLS &MORE very nice ya I have heard of people using the screwdriver before. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
😀 yay nice and OCD clean! 😍
MrSammy haha ya that’s me for sure
Very well put !
Also, if you use an old distributor with the top cut off to do this, you have to grind the gear offs well.
Great video Tony. That’s a great tip plugging the hole to force it out of the others. I have seen it where the holes were so plugged that it caused damage on startup because they didn’t ensure oil was flowing correctly. 👍
Shane thank you ya it was a pain getting oil to everything at first but it just took time
What directions do I prime the pump clockwise or counterclockwise I don't know much about this
Clockwise
Thank you, great video
Thank you
Great vid. Looking to prime my sbc changed gas tank to go with efi but I'm curious about the Fitech system u have. How's that working out for u? And does it handle the fuel demand for the horse power u have? Responsive? Even at a higher cruising speeds?
The last two day I tried to prime my 350 engine nothing one side I have a couple of them on one side but the other side nothing and now and I have oil pressure up to 60
It's most likely just your prime tool not sealing well enough. An old distributor will get oil up top or just run the engine it will get the oil up top
Just got a sbc they. Told me I might need the casing around my made oil pump turner. How shitty is the oil pressure in a sbc
Thanks man! gonna prime my 3.1 that you helped me remove and get er running - I rebuilt it Do you have a link for that tool?
Great video!
Thank you
I noticed you have 1.5 rockers. What size cam do you have?
Question. I have 2 rockers getting a little oil and 1 not getting any. The rest are good to go. I’ve tried rotating the engine while priming. I used regular assembly lube. Nothing I would think could clog up a pushrod. Is this something that will work itself out once the engine is running? Or something I should be concerned about! Thanks!
Yes almost all the time when using a priming tool you only get some of them to push oil. Unless you use an old distributor torn down as the priming tool. Then you will get oil to all of them most of the time.
@@TonyTheTechnician Ok. Cool deal. Thanks for the reply!
@@jasonconaway69 no problem at all 👍
what direction was the drill turning?
Clockwise
I miss keyed chucks sometimes.
DOYLECLEVERLOBE1 for real!! Me too!!!
Which way do you turn drill when priming? Ccw or Cw
Clockwise. Same direction that the distributor rotates 👍
Do I do this before a adjust my lifters there a little stiff and I’m rebuilding my engine kinda new to this
I would adjust them first
I'm only getting oil to one head with the exception of #1 cylinder exhaust rocker. I've been priming about 20 minutes turning motor. Any thoughts??
It's most likely your priming tool not sealing well inside the block. I just had another viewer with the same issue. It was only priming one side. I suggest taking an old distributor and tearing it down and using it as a priming tool. As soon as the other viewer did that it immediately started oiling the other side. You can find many links and videos online how to use an old distributor to prime. Please let me know how it goes 👍
Why I have no will on the top the time I prime my 350 and I have 60 lb pressure
Are you saying you have no oil up top when you prime but have oil pressure? Most likely it's just your prime tool. If you use an old distributor torn down then you will get out up top. Or if you just run the engine it will get it up top
Nice post Tony
Martin Schaffmeir thank you! 👍🏻
Im trying to prime my rebuilt 350. I get oil on one side but not the other. I'm using a drill and priming tool.
Any ideas?
90% chance it's just your priming tool not sealing completely so it only has enough pressure to reach the one head. If you take an old distributor and break it down and use it as your priming tool I bet you will get oil on both sides. Or when you go to start it it will most likely start flowing in both heads. It's a very common issue
@@TonyTheTechnician thanks tony i cut down a old distributor and it worked great
@@roybeltz7932 very nice. Ya that's what most people end up having to do. Glad it worked for you as well
i misplaced my charger cable for that drill, I miss it 😢 😅
🤣👍🤣
I'm not getting any oil when priming any advise
The priming tool probably isn't sealing correctly. Try to disassemble an old distributor and use it. Then you should start seeing oil
What if oil is only coming from 1 side...🤔
Most likely the tool your using. It's the most common issue. If you use an old distributor and turn it over it will come from both sides
Cool video. How long should it take to get oil to rockers just by cranking engine? I didn't have prime tool. Plan on getting one today. Took what seemed like forever just cranking engine. An just barley dribbled out of a few rockers.
Ya it usually takes maybe a min to 5 min to get oil everywhere depending on the method you go about it.
@@TonyTheTechnician thanks. Was about to just replace oil pump. But I better test it first with a gauge. Got a free used 350 4 bolt main out of an abandoned 3/4 van. Got it to run on the stand. But debating on changing oil pump before I slap it in the c10
My husband has a new chevy 350 crate motor and a oil primer tool bit his issue is he is getting oil to the driver side rocker arms but absolutely nothing on the passenger side rocker arms, we covered all the holes on the driver side and still nothing and he has been priming it since 4 o clock and still no oil coming from the passenger side. Can you please help?
First thing you want to make sure the oil priming tool is sealing at the bottom near the pump. If it is not it will cause a leak and oil won't make it to that side. So make sure the priming tool works well for your block. If not a different style may be needed or a torn down distributor. If that isn't the problem try turning the engine over by hand and continue to prime after every few rotations. It may take Tim to get pushrods and lifters aligned to let the oil flow. Also keep in mind some engines for some reason just want more rpm to get the oil to that side. You may in some cases have to install distributor and start putting the car to really seal and force oil to that side. Also make sure all galley plugs are in place. If a rear one is missing in the block you will know bc 1 you won't have pressure and 2 oil will be on the ground. But if a front Gally plug is missing then it will feed oil to one side but just flow back to the pan before reaching the other side. These front galley plugs are behind the timing cover. So before all that just make sure the priming tool is sealing that's the biggest part. And then try turning the motor over a full rotation and prime more then do that again and again. I hope this helps. Please let me know how it goes
Most of the time this issue is because of a priming tool not sealing as well as a distributor so a torn down old distributor almost always solves that issue. You can find how to tear them down online. Alot of people do it this way. 👍
@@TonyTheTechnician how would we know if the tool isn't sealing correctly?
How likely is it that one of the front galley plugs is missing? I and he as well would hate to have to take it all apart after being so close to being done with the install to have to take it apart again.
@@brookeowenby8388 as far as the tool not sealing your issue is one of the signs of it not working properly. And unfortunately it is really hard to see if it is sealing. The easiest way would be to try a different one or a distributor.
Thanks great video
Willy Queen thank you!!
What oil do you use in the SBC?
I'm using Royal purple break in oil 👍
TonyTheTechnician you use that for the life of the engine?
@@bigbawsz2054 I run it for about the first three oil changes and yes you could but it's more expensive
@@bigbawsz2054 Valvoline vr1 is also great. And for every day non break in oil I use mobile 1
TonyTheTechnician after the break in what viscosity do you use tho? 5w 30? I get so many different answers, 30 weight, 10-30, 10-40, 20-50 etc. I got a new engine I’m dropping in a couple days appreciate your replies man
CAUTION! I learned the hard way that doing this with a nylon retainer on the intermediate oil pump drive shaft can break the retainer and have the intermediate shaft come out with the priming tool.
Hi again, it's been a while. I'm doing basically the same thing as you are. I have a 98 L31 with the factory 062 heads, fully rebuilt block and heads with new pistons, rings, roller cam, pretty much everything minus the crankshaft. What kind of oil do you recommend for breaking in everything and for how long? Also, what do you recommend I soak the new roller lifters in? Thanks. You can see my build on Instagram @Some_Ginger_Guy
Hey I'm sorry I was never notified of your comment. I know it has been awhile. I have always used either Royal purple break in oil or Valvoline vr1 oil which are both high in zinc and I really like them. I usually run it for 150 to 300 miles then change the oil. And you can soak them in the same oil as well
Oil!
What headers are those?
Dyno Don