Hello Brintech! Thank you SO MUCH for pointing out the "service" locking screw on the exhaust VANOS system on the S85. Many engines with loud noise and possible failure from improper disassembly. I paint my "service" screw in Yellow to avoid assembly issues. Cam bolts are stupid tight. Either I had a previously serviced engine, or on mine it was a middle mm bolt +/- 0.5mm from standard 6-pt socket. TTY bolts so they will be replaced. P-Chi
As some one else mentioned, you guys didn't explicitly show the short M8 bolt being REMOVED from the exhaust side VANOS assembly. Other than that this was a great video from some real pros, looking forward to more!
So the problem I am having right now is the exhaust gear is sprung pulling in (instead of pushing out like in the video) and intake gear pushes out. So to get the gauge in place I have to pull the exhaust gear out. When I let go the exhaust gear pulls back in and the plate with the 3 bolts will not rotate back and forth. It feels like it is sprung against the 3 bolts. However in the video here Tony simply presses and pull the exhaust and intake in and out without any resistance. Idk if I'm doing something wrong or not. 2007 e60 7:00
@@BrintechCustoms Yes vanos unit removed and remaining 3 bolts loosened. Intake gear pushes out then I can move the adjuster in and out rotating the bolts between the slots. The exhaust gear however is pulled in by the spring and I cannot move the adjuster in and out to rotate the 3 bolts in the slots. Instead the 3 bolts feel jammed against one end as they weren't maxed before I loosened them but sprung against one end after I loosened them and are stuck there now. We've ordered another gear (used as new is $1k and and 3 weeks from Germany) and in the pictures the used one we've ordered in pushed out instead of sucked in. So I will disassemble this one now to try to figure out what is wrong and/or different.
I conclude that Brintech must have one of the earliest vanos exhaust hub designs (circa 2005 or so) which comes with a CW wound inner coil spring. The hub’s resting position is extended. One has to apply a force to retract it, which in turn loads the spring. When the force is quickly removed, the hub “snaps” back to the extended position. This is essentially what's happening when the rotating lobes of the exhaust cam pass TDC of the hydraulic valve lifters and the cam “jumps.” The result is the “popping back” of exhaust hubs seen in the video. BMW later changed the design of the exhaust hub (circa 2007 or so) such that the inner coil spring is wound in a CCW fashion. This hub’s resting position is retracted. One has to apply force to extend the hub, which in turn loads the spring. (You will see in the service manual that BMW states NOT to remove the bridge from the timing kit after removing the hub “because the hub is under tension.”) While cranking the engine, the exhaust hub will not pull in then “pop” out as seen in the video. It retracts slightly, then remains in somewhat of a neutral position (since its natural state is the retracted position not the extended position).
Thank you very much for your information. It would be great to know techincal information regarding the ideal piston ring gaps for this engine and also the ideal crank to conrod cap bearing clearances using plastigauge along with what manufacturer or type of bearings to use. For example acl, bmw or be bearings etc. Would be lovely to see or know how to overhaul a vanos unit also. Many thanks for your help its super helpful for me. Thanks
One area of confusion: Tony quotes the 8mm-ish gap spec between VANOS unit and front timing cover. It looked like he just put the VANOS unit on and started to bolt it down without measurement. Obviously he did a visual check but what needed to be aligned in order for that gap to be visually in spec? In other words, what would be wrong for that gap to be wildly different from spec?
Great video and great content, i love what you guys do 👍🏽, I am in the process now of rebuilding my s85 engine, the mistake that I did was I when I tore it down, i didnt put a bolt behind the exhaust cam gear to hold the two gears, how do I do it now? I searched everywhere and couldn’t find any solution
Hi, I am currently in the process of rebuilding an s85 engine, could I get some help from you with a few questions as you are already after the rebuild and have a lot of experience. - Is a cylinder oval of 0.030 between the x,y axes acceptable? - Did you use any shells with more clearance in your rebuild? e.g. Be-berings or mehle motosports. - Is it a better solution to use forged connecting rods instead of om? Thank you in advance for your help.
We have a DHL service where we can retrieve engines from all over the world and send them back. We build them in house only as this is where all our resources are
Hi! I just got my vanos actuator units rebuilt but they didn’t tighten the only screw holding the cap on the cylinders. Does anyone know how much torque is needed to securely lock that screw in?
This is really great content and super helpful for us S85 guys. Tony is a wealth of knowledge.
Task professionally carried out, thank you guys, really satisfying
Hello Brintech!
Thank you SO MUCH for pointing out the "service" locking screw on the exhaust VANOS system on the S85.
Many engines with loud noise and possible failure from improper disassembly.
I paint my "service" screw in Yellow to avoid assembly issues.
Cam bolts are stupid tight. Either I had a previously serviced engine, or on mine it was a middle mm bolt
+/- 0.5mm from standard 6-pt socket.
TTY bolts so they will be replaced.
P-Chi
Very interesting. Keep the s85 content coming 👍
S85 is gorgeous engine. What a marvel
As some one else mentioned, you guys didn't explicitly show the short M8 bolt being REMOVED from the exhaust side VANOS assembly. Other than that this was a great video from some real pros, looking forward to more!
So the problem I am having right now is the exhaust gear is sprung pulling in (instead of pushing out like in the video) and intake gear pushes out. So to get the gauge in place I have to pull the exhaust gear out. When I let go the exhaust gear pulls back in and the plate with the 3 bolts will not rotate back and forth. It feels like it is sprung against the 3 bolts. However in the video here Tony simply presses and pull the exhaust and intake in and out without any resistance. Idk if I'm doing something wrong or not. 2007 e60 7:00
Have you got the 6x allen head bolts backed off?
@@BrintechCustoms Yes vanos unit removed and remaining 3 bolts loosened. Intake gear pushes out then I can move the adjuster in and out rotating the bolts between the slots.
The exhaust gear however is pulled in by the spring and I cannot move the adjuster in and out to rotate the 3 bolts in the slots.
Instead the 3 bolts feel jammed against one end as they weren't maxed before I loosened them but sprung against one end after I loosened them and are stuck there now.
We've ordered another gear (used as new is $1k and and 3 weeks from Germany) and in the pictures the used one we've ordered in pushed out instead of sucked in. So I will disassemble this one now to try to figure out what is wrong and/or different.
@@BrintechCustoms ua-cam.com/video/b_3nSTn4_Uw/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/IpNJqpEsLMo/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/b_3nSTn4_Uw/v-deo.html
I conclude that Brintech must have one of the earliest vanos exhaust hub designs (circa 2005 or so) which comes with a CW wound inner coil spring. The hub’s resting position is extended. One has to apply a force to retract it, which in turn loads the spring. When the force is quickly removed, the hub “snaps” back to the extended position. This is essentially what's happening when the rotating lobes of the exhaust cam pass TDC of the hydraulic valve lifters and the cam “jumps.” The result is the “popping back” of exhaust hubs seen in the video.
BMW later changed the design of the exhaust hub (circa 2007 or so) such that the inner coil spring is wound in a CCW fashion. This hub’s resting position is retracted. One has to apply force to extend the hub, which in turn loads the spring. (You will see in the service manual that BMW states NOT to remove the bridge from the timing kit after removing the hub “because the hub is under tension.”) While cranking the engine, the exhaust hub will not pull in then “pop” out as seen in the video. It retracts slightly, then remains in somewhat of a neutral position (since its natural state is the retracted position not the extended position).
When do you take the locking bolt out of the exhaust hub? After the timing is done?
Cheers for the video guys I’m not a mechanic but I find this fascinating
Thank you very much for your information. It would be great to know techincal information regarding the ideal piston ring gaps for this engine and also the ideal crank to conrod cap bearing clearances using plastigauge along with what manufacturer or type of bearings to use. For example acl, bmw or be bearings etc. Would be lovely to see or know how to overhaul a vanos unit also. Many thanks for your help its super helpful for me. Thanks
Love your work gents
Gotta love the ol German E for intake and I for exhaust
M539 restorations is a good engine rebuild on some of these engines !
One area of confusion: Tony quotes the 8mm-ish gap spec between VANOS unit and front timing cover. It looked like he just put the VANOS unit on and started to bolt it down without measurement. Obviously he did a visual check but what needed to be aligned in order for that gap to be visually in spec? In other words, what would be wrong for that gap to be wildly different from spec?
@BrintechCustoms - Is it possible to change the crankshaft and cams (inc. custom ecu) so that the firing order is the same as a Gallardo?
Great video! Any tips or areas of concern for reinstalling the timing chain to the gears?
they should just slip on - maybe email us m,pore specific info. cars@brintech.com.au
Great video and great content, i love what you guys do 👍🏽, I am in the process now of rebuilding my s85 engine, the mistake that I did was I when I tore it down, i didnt put a bolt behind the exhaust cam gear to hold the two gears, how do I do it now? I searched everywhere and couldn’t find any solution
Do you find an solution or not?
@@lars.l7720 yup there’s a special tool BMW 115370 to tighten both gears and align the hole to inset the bolt
Did you guys have to beef up the rear end?
Phenomenal video! Thank you.
Excellent video guys! Legends!
Hi,
I am currently in the process of rebuilding an s85 engine, could I get some help from you with a few questions as you are already after the rebuild and have a lot of experience.
- Is a cylinder oval of 0.030 between the x,y axes acceptable?
- Did you use any shells with more clearance in your rebuild? e.g. Be-berings or mehle motosports.
- Is it a better solution to use forged connecting rods instead of om?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Great video bro, do you have any services for international customers ? Do you travel to build engines
We have a DHL service where we can retrieve engines from all over the world and send them back. We build them in house only as this is where all our resources are
Thank u! Amazing job Amazing Video super Help!!
Hi! I just got my vanos actuator units rebuilt but they didn’t tighten the only screw holding the cap on the cylinders. Does anyone know how much torque is needed to securely lock that screw in?
are ss oil filters on this engine good?
My exhaust gear is under tension. Not sure why you’re able to move the gearing back and forth…hope mine is ok
Hi, I have the same problem with my exhaust gear which is also under tension. Did you find out what the problem was?
I had to fiddle with the cams and really torque down the cam timing bridges before torquing down the main bolts
Is that 10 ft / lbs or 10 newton - meters
Nm
27:00 - that "pop in and out, clicking and clacking" would have had my heart in pieces on the floor to hear!!, like 😫😫😫😫😫😫😫😭😭😭🤬 it's busted!!!!😭
I believe you missed the VANOS gasket…
It's on there. Disguised because of the grey coloured sealant
Sorry, thank you for your answer
Please thank Michanic From me !1 🙏🥇💪
These engines were way too advance back in 2005s.