I have been trying to do my search for a polyester high build, but I am chemical stripping, clean, 80 grit and shoot SPI epoxy on the entire 1967 C10 PU with large rear window. I have a 7 day open window to do one panel at a time, body work then fill in my minor imperfections and sand scratches. It is now one year since you uploaded the video. I had 7 lumbar surgeries starting in 1987 at age 28 and turned 63 last month. I had the S1, L5 and L4 fused in 87 with sonar bone off my hip. Now if spacing or alignment is needed the used the “Harrington” procedure. That is brackets, screws and bars. The even use an adjustable spacer to add strength between the facet joints. This heals fast and you are back in 90 days on light duty. Now, you could be in a car accident, feel off a ladder or lifted something heavy. Everyone is different. A Dr. put a 28 minute video on UA-cam that shows one he is re doing on a women. Watch it. I had & still have burning at the belt line as I bend to work, but the Dr. made it mechanically stable. He install 1 in 2005 and in July 15th 2020, did the L2, L3, L4, L5 and S1. I have four of these with a rod on both sides and is done. I worked as a tech for 38+ year and took a different job having to travel but teach, holding seminars. I know and can tell you what to expect if you are able to move forward to get this fixed. Doc. even gave me the old L4-L3 and it looks alien but with special screws. I had two epidurals with an MRI. The injections killed the burning for 1 1/2 days then faded. I still want to know how hard this was to sand. Some say it sands harder but does shrink. Tell me!!! ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired.
I slip a disc 2-3 times a year. I'm able to mimic what the chiropractor does after the initial inflammation goes down. So far with yoga and self readjusting I stay off the surgery table. It's not that hard to sand but it is a chore. It's simular to sanding filler rather then paint. I've seem guys start with 80 grit. If you mix it right and let it cure correctly I've never had a problem with shrinking. It's easy to get the mix ratio off though. Good luck
seriously,this damn product came along about 35 years to late,this substance would've made my life easier by 45% time wise,this will take a rough car and elevate it to decent,i'll never fine line a car again,after using this product,and from what i've read they now a 4/1 high build,haven't used it yet,i tested this product by accident,i did my 65 cuda and had to let it set for a year and a half while i restored a duster,came back and checked the cuda,no shrinkage,no cracks,i cleaned it,sanded it to apply the first hue,it looked outstanding,incredible product,fills scratches perfectly,time saver,one tip,sand car to level,blow this on,get out,don't breathe it,it stinks and the results were amazing
I remember seeing that UA-camr "bad Chad", he used this stuff and used 80 grit to do the first block sand,at first I said he must be nuts.But did it and thought 80 grit would be to much.But got my dura block set,and started sanding and it worked great,then used 220,then managed to use 320 with guide coat and was able to get all 80 grit and 220 grit scratches out .
I don't doubt it. I had a guy who would use it to "see where he was at" in body work. If he had a bedside to do he would apply filler, sand, slick sand, 80 grit, apply filler, sand, slick sand, 80 grit, apply filler, sand.... you get it. Always looked like crap and I don't want to put filler over it unless I have to.
I have used Slick Sand for probably the past 10 years or more and always love the results. Although the cost of it now is ridiculous. When i first bought it, it was like $80 for a gallon, or something like that. That single stage, say you wanted to go back over it later with a few coats of clear, is that doable?
You're not kidding I used slick sand on my C-10 project back in 2013 I think gallon was $90 now it's $263 a gallon. I probably wouldn't use it because of the price.
you can sand with a guide coat after spraying the slick sand, then go back and fill those pits with body filler. then slick sand some more. then repeat many times so your project drags on for weeks or maybe a month...
Looks good I love single stage paints then I put clear over ,; bass coat clear coat does not last, You will see clear burn off even factory jobs !!👆👍🏁💯
What gun did you use if you don't mind me asking? I am debating between getting a higher end gun (DeVilbiss FLG-678 - DeVilbiss FinishLine FLG-4 Gravity Feed Guns), or another cheaper version. Just trying to find a decent gun that shoots slick sand with good results. Thanks in advance
If you have a epoxy coating and the surface is nice and clean you could paint right over top of that. Primer is mostly to hide surface imperfections and "seal" the surface. The epoxy will do that also and can be painted on, epoxy doesn't have the build of a primer but certainly seals the substrate and is ready for paint. Gl
This car was brought to me full of bondo think the whole car was sanded with 220 before this high build primer. You can say with just a red scotch pad and get good results With single stage
This is the first time i see an mustang with a 67 mustang interior and with rear quater panels like a 68 mustang because 67 mustang have two rectangular traps holes each side ? Nice car anyway .
Continue to use a 2.2 - 2.5 tip! Dont thin it to go through a 1.8 cause the more you thin it, the more it will shrink...You dont want it to shrink! You will be losing film build and it leaves less to block sand out...
I'll do a test on this. I *think* if you use acetone over other solvents it evaporates quicker with *less* shrink. I usually do 2 different batches when I do and let the 1st coat get nice and firm before the thinned coat. This is an older video I filmed and I've changed techniques slightly from best results. You are 100% right that paint will shrink when thinned, this mustang wasnt buffed and I never got any shrink rings after 2 weeks in direct sunlight. Js
@@KarKraftsman Nice! Ive just found the more you thin, the more solvents are in it and have to flash off and go somewhere. Always try and get as much of the solids on the panel with thinning...Eventually everything shrinks! Ive seen body work show back up about 5-6 months down the road, especially once the hot weather hits. Its inevitable. But you'd like it to hold out well for aslong as it can. Looked good man!
I would say I agree. This is not the perfect surface to paint on and a sealer at least would be beneficial for flow and bond. This was finished with a single stage urethane so I could get away with a lot 😉
Good job. For a quick tip, whenever you're spraying primer on a certian area that is in need for always spray the whole car FIRST then spray around the certian areas and 3rd coat shorten the amount of the area. $2 coin first, $1 coin second $0.25 third. There will be no air pockets. Try it once, you'll love the way it easily sands and evens out the layers properly.
That does sound like a good way to blend out the layers of primer. This high build will 100% give you undesirable results if not feathered while spraying.
@@KarKraftsman That is true, you do want to apply as much primer on the WHOLE vehical, although after you have primer left over in the gun instead of dumping it go over the body work by feathering the most important area over and over. It's never too much for the reason that 3 quarters of it will be sanded off.
@@KarKraftsman ok. I dont have a spray setup so i was thinking i could probably roll is or shootbit with one of those cheap airless sprayers. I wish i had friends
And you can sand this stuff with 80. I used to try and block it with 220 and paint on top of that, I dont even try that now. Start with 180, 220, to 400 and then sealer or lacquer primer to seal.
When using 3m pps take the strainer out.
The slick sand can flow thru gun.
Also dont mix to much at one time.
It will set up in gun very quickly
I have been trying to do my search for a polyester high build, but I am chemical stripping, clean, 80 grit and shoot SPI epoxy on the entire 1967 C10 PU with large rear window.
I have a 7 day open window to do one panel at a time, body work then fill in my minor imperfections and sand scratches. It is now one year since you uploaded the video. I had 7 lumbar surgeries starting in 1987 at age 28 and turned 63 last month. I had the S1, L5 and L4 fused in 87 with sonar bone off my hip. Now if spacing or alignment is needed the used the “Harrington” procedure. That is brackets, screws and bars. The even use an adjustable spacer to add strength between the facet joints. This heals fast and you are back in 90 days on light duty. Now, you could be in a car accident, feel off a ladder or lifted something heavy. Everyone is different. A Dr. put a 28 minute video on UA-cam that shows one he is re doing on a women. Watch it. I had & still have burning at the belt line as I bend to work, but the Dr. made it mechanically stable. He install 1 in 2005 and in July 15th 2020, did the L2, L3, L4, L5 and S1. I have four of these with a rod on both sides and is done. I worked as a tech for 38+ year and took a different job having to travel but teach, holding seminars. I know and can tell you what to expect if you are able to move forward to get this fixed. Doc. even gave me the old L4-L3 and it looks alien but with special screws. I had two epidurals with an MRI. The injections killed the burning for 1 1/2 days then faded. I still want to know how hard this was to sand. Some say it sands harder but does shrink. Tell me!!!
ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired.
I slip a disc 2-3 times a year. I'm able to mimic what the chiropractor does after the initial inflammation goes down. So far with yoga and self readjusting I stay off the surgery table.
It's not that hard to sand but it is a chore. It's simular to sanding filler rather then paint. I've seem guys start with 80 grit. If you mix it right and let it cure correctly I've never had a problem with shrinking. It's easy to get the mix ratio off though.
Good luck
I got some Slick Sand, going to be using it on my girlfriend's 1971 corvette. Covered corvette with epoxy primer first. Thanks for sharing.
White is right! Hides alot! GREAT JOB👍THANKS FOR THE VIDEO
Nice. Im about to try slick sand for the first time this week
This video is hilarious 😂
Nice work man 🤛
seriously,this damn product came along about 35 years to late,this substance would've made my life easier by 45% time wise,this will take a rough car and elevate it to decent,i'll never fine line a car again,after using this product,and from what i've read they now a 4/1 high build,haven't used it yet,i tested this product by accident,i did my 65 cuda and had to let it set for a year and a half while i restored a duster,came back and checked the cuda,no shrinkage,no cracks,i cleaned it,sanded it to apply the first hue,it looked outstanding,incredible product,fills scratches perfectly,time saver,one tip,sand car to level,blow this on,get out,don't breathe it,it stinks and the results were amazing
Respirator bruh
As a headphone user.. i'd like to believe i could feel your pain during that "triggered" gun malfunction lol thanks for sharing.
Sorry I didn't level that out
@@KarKraftsman Hahah no worries! Love the vids man! Keep it up!!
Looks like the slick sand did its job 👍👍
Really does work miracles
Thanks for almost blowing my speakers. Was that necessary in an otherwise good video?
I try and add thing to keep it interesting. Thanks for watching
I have featured this gun on my page Aswell works nice for primer. What pps adaptor did you use
I'll have to check
I remember seeing that UA-camr "bad Chad", he used this stuff and used 80 grit to do the first block sand,at first I said he must be nuts.But did it and thought 80 grit would be to much.But got my dura block set,and started sanding and it worked great,then used 220,then managed to use 320 with guide coat and was able to get all 80 grit and 220 grit scratches out .
I don't doubt it. I had a guy who would use it to "see where he was at" in body work. If he had a bedside to do he would apply filler, sand, slick sand, 80 grit, apply filler, sand, slick sand, 80 grit, apply filler, sand.... you get it. Always looked like crap and I don't want to put filler over it unless I have to.
I have used Slick Sand for probably the past 10 years or more and always love the results. Although the cost of it now is ridiculous. When i first bought it, it was like $80 for a gallon, or something like that.
That single stage, say you wanted to go back over it later with a few coats of clear, is that doable?
You're not kidding I used slick sand on my C-10 project back in 2013 I think gallon was $90 now it's $263 a gallon. I probably wouldn't use it because of the price.
Pretty slick results 😮for what must have been a budget paint job
thank you
you can sand with a guide coat after spraying the slick sand, then go back and fill those pits with body filler. then slick sand some more. then repeat many times so your project drags on for weeks or maybe a month...
Get it as straight as you can
I suspect as much
I'm working on a 75 eldelrado that got rear ended anyways 2 gallon of slick sand later on same car
Looks good I love single stage paints then I put clear over ,; bass coat clear coat does not last, You will see clear burn off even factory jobs !!👆👍🏁💯
have to subscribe, I have slick sand, I had a white 67mustang sold after I welded it up, lost money, I use Nason and live in PA too...
What gun did you use if you don't mind me asking? I am debating between getting a higher end gun (DeVilbiss FLG-678 - DeVilbiss FinishLine FLG-4 Gravity Feed Guns), or another cheaper version. Just trying to find a decent gun that shoots slick sand with good results. Thanks in advance
This is just a 2.5 tip gun from Amazon, very capable
Nice job bro
I'm sold...on the Evercoat.
Good job....came out nicely
Question on my 70 nova door jams. Poly primer ,or 2k after epoxy coating? or both?
If you have a epoxy coating and the surface is nice and clean you could paint right over top of that. Primer is mostly to hide surface imperfections and "seal" the surface. The epoxy will do that also and can be painted on, epoxy doesn't have the build of a primer but certainly seals the substrate and is ready for paint. Gl
To what grit did you prep the car too? Or would just a red scuff pad work?
This car was brought to me full of bondo think the whole car was sanded with 220 before this high build primer. You can say with just a red scotch pad and get good results With single stage
@@KarKraftsman Thanks
This is the first time i see an mustang with a 67 mustang interior and with rear quater panels like a 68 mustang because 67 mustang have
two rectangular traps holes each side ? Nice car anyway .
Continue to use a 2.2 - 2.5 tip! Dont thin it to go through a 1.8 cause the more you thin it, the more it will shrink...You dont want it to shrink! You will be losing film build and it leaves less to block sand out...
I'll do a test on this. I *think* if you use acetone over other solvents it evaporates quicker with *less* shrink. I usually do 2 different batches when I do and let the 1st coat get nice and firm before the thinned coat. This is an older video I filmed and I've changed techniques slightly from best results. You are 100% right that paint will shrink when thinned, this mustang wasnt buffed and I never got any shrink rings after 2 weeks in direct sunlight. Js
@@KarKraftsman
Nice!
Ive just found the more you thin, the more solvents are in it and have to flash off and go somewhere. Always try and get as much of the solids on the panel with thinning...Eventually everything shrinks! Ive seen body work show back up about 5-6 months down the road, especially once the hot weather hits. Its inevitable. But you'd like it to hold out well for aslong as it can.
Looked good man!
@@haseebsheikh7189
You can try the 2.0
It will be a bit slower when you apply the primer, but should work
Your right it's a rough car need a strip
It works good on older corvette because regular primer soaks in fiberglass this shit don't I would prime over that it's basically spraying body filler
I would say I agree. This is not the perfect surface to paint on and a sealer at least would be beneficial for flow and bond. This was finished with a single stage urethane so I could get away with a lot 😉
Good job. For a quick tip, whenever you're spraying primer on a certian area that is in need for always spray the whole car FIRST then spray around the certian areas and 3rd coat shorten the amount of the area. $2 coin first, $1 coin second $0.25 third. There will be no air pockets. Try it once, you'll love the way it easily sands and evens out the layers properly.
That does sound like a good way to blend out the layers of primer. This high build will 100% give you undesirable results if not feathered while spraying.
@@KarKraftsman That is true, you do want to apply as much primer on the WHOLE vehical, although after you have primer left over in the gun instead of dumping it go over the body work by feathering the most important area over and over. It's never too much for the reason that 3 quarters of it will be sanded off.
Great. 👍
How much do reducer do you add or should i use it straight
Its best straight, I've thinned it quite a bit with good results but you have to let it breath for about a week
@@KarKraftsman ok. I dont have a spray setup so i was thinking i could probably roll is or shootbit with one of those cheap airless sprayers. I wish i had friends
Huh, I think that you're almost local to me... that car isn't owned by a guy that goes by Mac is it?
Really couldnt tell you who bought it, but I'm in manheim pa
What white is this?? Paint code?
I really dont even remember
The famous rustang,known for their leaking power steering.🧐🧐🧐🧐
I would work only 2 panels at a time using this
You have to work fast is all, experience with flash times and hardener go a long way.
White paint hides many sins, that being said, i would be a happy with those results.
Sands easily: That's a damn lie. LOVE IT that stuff sands hard I use like 80-grit
And you can sand this stuff with 80. I used to try and block it with 220 and paint on top of that, I dont even try that now. Start with 180, 220, to 400 and then sealer or lacquer primer to seal.
@@KarKraftsman Hi am looking to use this on a boat. Looking to use this primer, sand then paint. What do you think my man?