I really like how you approach your work. Cover all bases and that way no nasty surprises later. Commentary is really great and the process is well explained, thank you.
I remember being 12 years old and stopping by the dealer to drool over this model when it came out. It sure was expensive because you could get a well equipped jeep Cherokee for 12k at the time. Thanks for your great videos, I am mentally preparing myself to tackle my custom Astro van.
MAN you really know your stuff with The who, what, when, were when it comes to paint process my Brother! Thank you so much for sharing your experience. Love the soundtracks to your videos! Rock on my man. ROCK ON!!!!
slick sand is the ultimate product for filling,i've restored cars for 50 years,wish they had made the stuff decades ago,it does not shrink or fade or actually any no no's,it saves a lot time guys,i actually sand using 180 or 220 just before priming with this stuff,it covers everything,i love it,shot my barracuda with it,heavy,had to let it set for a year no paint,it was a miracle,cleaned it off shot it,you'd never know it sat so long,no cracks,i'm damn impressed with this product and use it exclusively,to hell with the cost,but it does stink,blow it and leave the area till it hardens,i usually let it out gas for 2 days,sand it flat shoot it
I know someone with a 6 tail light wide body. It’s in serious need of restoration. It sat for years and the shop that has it just got it running recently. There was a gentleman in Ruskin, Fl who had a complete collection of Corvettes. He had that old motel on 41. The last I heard he was selling them off.
Slick sand is a great product and up until recently was real affordable. I use to use a product called Sandy that was a polyester primer too. Never had either one fail
Great work. I do have to ask why you sanded the epoxy. I always apply the epoxy, wait 24 hours and apply the poly directly on top. I haven't used DPLF in almost 10 years, but I thought I recall it having a 7 day recoat window...maybe its less with poly... Just curious thats all, not doubting anything by any means.
Really appreciate the video. Reaffirms my process. Been using starting line 1.8 primer gun. I’ve tried to go bigger to a 2.5 cheap throw away gun from my jobber. It does not lay down the material well at all. I was curious on your gun for spraying the slick sand? Also do you use the same for your high build primers? I’m exploring replacing. Literally dropped today and broke the gun frame cleaning. On the hunt for a replacement. Appreciate any and all feed back.
It’s great stuff.🙂I always go back over it with 2k sealer or primer.Ive done many cars where whoever used this stuff failed to seal it since it’s porous and it was cracking .
Never had that issue with featherfill, we went against the “rules” and wet sanded and painted directly over featherfill with no problems. Have paint jobs that been painted 20+ years ago and still going strong with no issues
I'm working on a 1972 Cutlass W25 OAI made from SMC fiberglass. I have sanded almost all of the original lacquer paint off. So, if I finish removing any spots of lacquer from the hood, I can just go straight to the Feather Fill? What sandpaper should I use on the hood just before spraying FF? I only bought a quart of the FF since the hood is all I want to use it on. So, I was thinking of mixing up 1/2 a quart and catalyzing it and spray the fiberglass hood and then dump the rest, clean the gun, mix up the second half quart and spray the second coat? I'm spraying the whole car in Viking Blue PPG Duracryl lacquer with their High performance clear over that. It's all NOS paint I've stored inside, unopened for all these years. I enjoy your content....Thank you!
Interesting info. I have a 88 Mercedes W126 560SEC that i am going to widebody with the Kit i purchased some 10yrs ago in fibreglass. The rear flairs i have to chemically bond fibreglass to bare metal ( i will most likely pop rivet as well for good measure) and then fibreglass over the seams before applying body filler. The PPG-VP2050 sounds like a good choice as existing paint had a respray over the years by previous owner and i don't know what product they used. The coupe has no damage or dings so its all prep work which i will be doing as well as painting the the whole car in 040 black which is its original colour which it still is now (non metallic)
Would you do a video on spraying single stage paint since most everything is basecoat/clearcoat now days, would like to see how you spray a single stage color. Thanks
Every PPG class I have ever sat through since the mid 90's, the instructor always said No to any poly over DP unless Fully cured. As in Weeks, not days.
I really like how you approach your work. Cover all bases and that way no nasty surprises later. Commentary is really great and the process is well explained, thank you.
I've got a 78 , you took the doors off. I forget why, but I took drivers door off mine, boy was it HEAVY!
I remember being 12 years old and stopping by the dealer to drool over this model when it came out. It sure was expensive because you could get a well equipped jeep Cherokee for 12k at the time. Thanks for your great videos, I am mentally preparing myself to tackle my custom Astro van.
MAN you really know your stuff with The who, what, when, were when it comes to paint process my Brother! Thank you so much for sharing your experience. Love the soundtracks to your videos! Rock on my man. ROCK ON!!!!
Thank you
slick sand is the ultimate product for filling,i've restored cars for 50 years,wish they had made the stuff decades ago,it does not shrink or fade or actually any no no's,it saves a lot time guys,i actually sand using 180 or 220 just before priming with this stuff,it covers everything,i love it,shot my barracuda with it,heavy,had to let it set for a year no paint,it was a miracle,cleaned it off shot it,you'd never know it sat so long,no cracks,i'm damn impressed with this product and use it exclusively,to hell with the cost,but it does stink,blow it and leave the area till it hardens,i usually let it out gas for 2 days,sand it flat shoot it
👍👍
Killer! One of my all-time fav vets
Thanks 🙌🏻💯
Another great video with loads of information thanks for sharing 👍
Great work , i love doing these types off jobs so satisfying. I even like the blocking down 🙄. jim uk
Good video amigo
I know someone with a 6 tail light wide body. It’s in serious need of restoration. It sat for years and the shop that has it just got it running recently.
There was a gentleman in Ruskin, Fl who had a complete collection of Corvettes. He had that old motel on 41. The last I heard he was selling them off.
I really appreciate what you do
That’s very smart! Thank you 🙏
Thanks Kandy , Dig the videos
Slick sand is a great product and up until recently was real affordable. I use to use a product called Sandy that was a polyester primer too. Never had either one fail
I cant believe the price increase on that and G2....
Yeah it seems like they're totally ripping us off with these materials it's pretty sickening
Mmmm lacquer, the smell of Victory in the morning.
Like that slick sand used it on a 67 C-10 pickup needed lot of body work.
Great work. I do have to ask why you sanded the epoxy. I always apply the epoxy, wait 24 hours and apply the poly directly on top. I haven't used DPLF in almost 10 years, but I thought I recall it having a 7 day recoat window...maybe its less with poly... Just curious thats all, not doubting anything by any means.
Yes that's true. Just like to give it a stracth for piece of mind
@@kandyman5315 I totally understand that.
👍✌️
Great video as always Kandy Man, I've heard the slick sand is really good but I've never used it but it seems to go on nice🙏👍John UK
Really appreciate the video. Reaffirms my process. Been using starting line 1.8 primer gun. I’ve tried to go bigger to a 2.5 cheap throw away gun from my jobber. It does not lay down the material well at all. I was curious on your gun for spraying the slick sand? Also do you use the same for your high build primers? I’m exploring replacing. Literally dropped today and broke the gun frame cleaning. On the hunt for a replacement. Appreciate any and all feed back.
Ok I see ya using the Fuji looking back. Guess my next question would be tip size. Thanks again.
I use iwata for slick sand and 1.4 primer fuji is 1.3
Thanks for staying consistant uploading videos. Enjoying the process on this one.👏🏻
Thank you for the support
Thanks for all this information i'm new at car body work and painting.
Love your work. Curious, why is the spray pattern so narrow when applying the epoxy?
Puts down more product
There’s an 82 for sale in Palmetto. It keeps popping up on Facebook. It’s that champagne color
It’s great stuff.🙂I always go back over it with 2k sealer or primer.Ive done many cars where whoever used this stuff failed to seal it since it’s porous and it was cracking .
Never had that issue with featherfill, we went against the “rules” and wet sanded and painted directly over featherfill with no problems. Have paint jobs that been painted 20+ years ago and still going strong with no issues
Can you spray epoxy and slick sand with in the same day?
Yes
i have a question i always used feather fill is there any difference? keep up the good work
Same stuff different ratio
I'm working on a 1972 Cutlass W25 OAI made from SMC fiberglass. I have sanded almost all of the original lacquer paint off. So, if I finish removing any spots of lacquer from the hood, I can just go straight to the Feather Fill? What sandpaper should I use on the hood just before spraying FF?
I only bought a quart of the FF since the hood is all I want to use it on. So, I was thinking of mixing up 1/2 a quart and catalyzing it and spray the fiberglass hood and then dump the rest, clean the gun, mix up the second half quart and spray the second coat?
I'm spraying the whole car in Viking Blue PPG Duracryl lacquer with their High performance clear over that. It's all NOS paint I've stored inside, unopened for all these years.
I enjoy your content....Thank you!
Make sure all the lacquer is is off 180 is fine for grit.
Interesting info. I have a 88 Mercedes W126 560SEC that i am going to widebody with the Kit i purchased some 10yrs ago in fibreglass.
The rear flairs i have to chemically bond fibreglass to bare metal ( i will most likely pop rivet as well for good measure) and then fibreglass over the seams before applying body filler. The PPG-VP2050 sounds like a good choice as existing paint had a respray over the years by previous owner and i don't know what product they used.
The coupe has no damage or dings so its all prep work which i will be doing as well as painting the the whole car in 040 black which is its original colour which it still is now (non metallic)
What epoxy did you use and what did you shoot it with?
Ppg
@@kandyman5315 did you need a while gallon?
Would you do a video on spraying single stage paint since most everything is basecoat/clearcoat now days, would like to see how you spray a single stage color. Thanks
Don't do single stage that often but when i do I will film it could be a while
What size nozzle tip you used to apply?
The bigger the better
nice do u know how much a job like this would cost at a shop like u work at ? complete job with all the work you did ?
Anywhere from 10 to 20 thousand
@@kandyman5315 yes that's a 10k plus job
Great video have you ever used ppg 2050 primer? If so did you like it?
Don't recall that primer
@@kandyman5315 thanks for the response great videos
Thank you
Every PPG class I have ever sat through since the mid 90's, the instructor always said No to any poly over DP unless Fully cured. As in Weeks, not days.
Never had a problem in 20 plus years and my ppg reps approve
Could you not wet on wet the epoxy and then slick sand?
Yes you can
@@kandyman5315 how come you chose not to on this project
It being a lacquer wanted let it cure first
@@kandyman5315 understand that. Love the videos
That’s an awfully good spray gun to be using for primer Kandy man! That MP-V8 is a Bad Bad weapon to have in the arsenal…
I love my fujispray
What’s the epoxy called again thanks
Ppg dplf epoxy
Good call k man bar coat all unknown 😊😊😊😊
They don't use jell Coats on corvettes, just boats
👍
Samcrac team
So I guess you can't or shouldn't base over that slick sand?
I seal everything
Man TAMCO 5310 dtm would of been so much easier. Good luck
Thanks for the insight
DUDE I hate to break your bubble That is a corvette not a Cutlass ( Just Being Cheeky )
Lol