UPDATE: A few comments suggested using a tacky grease for the springs. I picked up a can of CRC TAC2 Adhesive spray lubricant and 2 years on the springs are still silent.
Ok as someone who worked at a garage door company until my injury i should add this piece of advice, never ever lubricate the guide rails. What you did, cleaning the rails is perfectly fine, however you dont need to lubricate them. The "cloth" strips on the outer edges have rubber in their core, mixing in any form of lubricant damages and causes them to perish from the inside then cause a whole lot more problems. Clean your guides, lube your springs and tension them if they require it, thats all the maintenance they need.
A silicone spray should be ok, because it’s not a petroleum product, and won’t be absorbed into the rubber core and break it down like WD40. However a non sticky lube like bee wax may do a better job on the guid rails, because it will not be such a fluff magnet. And I’m thinking a heavier lube for the spring would be better, like chain lube, as the spring steel inside the drum is grinding against itself, as it twists up.
Thanks Mark. I followed your steps to clean the guide rails and lubricate the springs, and it stopped my 25+ year old roller doors from squeaking and squealing. Used spirits to clean the guide rails as I did not have brake cleaner on hand. I did not lubricate the guide rails but was very generous with the silicone spray on the springs.
Fellow Canberran here: great video, mate! Always amusing to see the Canberran sun brutalise any light metering. :) Thanks for the informative video. Managed to get the internal squeak down using some of your techniques. Did, however, use lithium grease rather than silicon spray....
Well done. Excellent explanation of all the risks involved with doing this job. Thanks for taking the time and effort you put into this presentation. Much appreciated, Dave from South Africa
Well done, great video. Just a point on the re-tensioning of the springs, if you open the door first there will be less pressure on the springs and less force on the screw driver.
After watching your video, I’m thinking that as the spring winds up against itself, a lubricant with a higher viscosity would probably work better. Axle grease or mollybond comes to mind. A squeak is a high frequency vibration caused by two hard surfaces rubbing together. Silicone spray will have trouble creating the hydraulic wedge needed to separate the moving parts.
Hey Mate Out in the Outback in Lightning Ridge. Your tutorial plus reading the following comments resulted in my door for the first time on its life Running Silent & with obvious more ease. Thankyou as 'ol squeaky it now silent .... best to you
i clicked on this because its very similar to my garage door. then you opened the door, and i was like oh wow, thats look like my view too. then i saw the ACT plate. Is this my house??! nope... HI NEIGHBOUR!! small world haha
Before removing the guide rails just mark the location of the L brackets on the wall with a pencil and replace them in their original positions, Job done !.
Hello on the slats when the door is down why not drill some slots in so you can get access to see the springs sat 10mm x 30mm then poke spray gun through 3 on each side should do
Would you also recommend this process for exterior security roller doors? The one in front of my office does not go up when I push the "On" button, and I have to manually raise it or use a broom to force it.
Better to use an tacky grease like motorcycle lube than silicone spray for the springs as a grease will adhere to the springs and work through the coil with use.
Easy to do from the side of the drum, or in some cases, when the door is down, a gap at the top of the curtain appears or just drill a hole in the sheet
Mate that's a good job on garage roller door maintenance - thanks for sharing. I found it a pretty clear and well demonstrated process. Mine's old and is tough to raise & lower (no auto opener either - might fit one) so I'm going to try this. Is that silicone spray OK for the roller door lock (also stiff)?
Silicone spray should be fine for the lock. For the torsion springs a viewer actually recommended some adhesive lubricant as it stays better than silicon spray, something like this www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/greases-lubricants/lubricants/crc-tac-2-adhesive-lubricant-spray-300g-5035/p/A4854802
Make sure the guide rails are not pinching the door at any point. Apparently it is not recommended to use any type of lubricant in the guide rails. Could also be the door is not tensioned properly - it should take around the same amount of force to lift it and pull it down manually. Lastly if it is squeaky, best to use some tacky adhesive spray on the springs, I used some CRC tac 2 and it's been silent since
Hi I have a device model GDO-5AS on a garage when I click to run it goes up and down for a second and then it stops and beeps from the device could you help me please.
I had the same problem with my roller door and it was brand new so I called out the installer and he reset my remote control to the door you have to press the button on the roller door and on the remote
I do appreciate the time and effort that goes into making a video however I feel that your knowledge in regards to roller doors including potential issues and hazards as pointed out by the fact that you didn’t feel comfortable adjusting more spring tension or alternatively adjusting the spring tension while the roller was completely In the down position which is when the springs are under the highest tension and most dangerous, and while it’s all good to make a video I think you should’ve stopped at the cleaning and lubing, Know your limitations, it’s one thing to do it yourself but another thing entirely to teach people
Yes you are correct that it is under the highest tension when closed, for some reason I was thinking the opposite at the time. And this was also mentioned by another commenter that I pinned to the top of the comments. Although I tried to make it as clear as possible that the procedure is potentially very dangerous, I agree that it should be removed from this video. Hopefully I can remove it from the video without ruining the rest, so this will happen in the next few days. Thank you for your honest feedback
Someone is recommending Lithium spray-on UA-cam, I might give Lithium spray a crack as Silicon not working well on ours also we got manual roller doors not electric.
Possibly not with all doors, with mine you certainly can as the door fully unrolled when down so there is a gap at the back. But some doors are obviously different so YMMV
There is way too much tension on the springs to start with.There is NO difference before and after you sprayed.The screeching noise is from the channels and NOT from the springs.
The noise was indeed coming from the springs. After a suggestion in the comments (now the pinned comment) I sprayed some tacky grease CRC TAC2 onto the springs and all noise is completely gone. If the tension on the springs was incorrect the door would be too heavy or too light, so it would either roll up or down by itself when unlocked from the motor.
UPDATE: A few comments suggested using a tacky grease for the springs. I picked up a can of CRC TAC2 Adhesive spray lubricant and 2 years on the springs are still silent.
WD40 Lanolin is what we use when we service Roller Doors and Sectional Doors, does the job pretty well.
Ok as someone who worked at a garage door company until my injury i should add this piece of advice, never ever lubricate the guide rails. What you did, cleaning the rails is perfectly fine, however you dont need to lubricate them. The "cloth" strips on the outer edges have rubber in their core, mixing in any form of lubricant damages and causes them to perish from the inside then cause a whole lot more problems. Clean your guides, lube your springs and tension them if they require it, thats all the maintenance they need.
A silicone spray should be ok, because it’s not a petroleum product, and won’t be absorbed into the rubber core and break it down like WD40. However a non sticky lube like bee wax may do a better job on the guid rails, because it will not be such a fluff magnet. And I’m thinking a heavier lube for the spring would be better, like chain lube, as the spring steel inside the drum is grinding against itself, as it twists up.
Any advice on how to get the door back into the guide rails? Mine has come out on both the left and right sides...
@@Forexfox99’
Dude... You remind me of a guy I watch who does retro computer repairs. You're an all rounder!
Thanks Mark. I followed your steps to clean the guide rails and lubricate the springs, and it stopped my 25+ year old roller doors from squeaking and squealing. Used spirits to clean the guide rails as I did not have brake cleaner on hand. I did not lubricate the guide rails but was very generous with the silicone spray on the springs.
Great video thank you from North Carolina USA 👍🏼 👍🏼
Fellow Canberran here: great video, mate! Always amusing to see the Canberran sun brutalise any light metering. :)
Thanks for the informative video. Managed to get the internal squeak down using some of your techniques. Did, however, use lithium grease rather than silicon spray....
Great video, nice to hear an Australia voice on UA-cam for a change.
Well done. Excellent explanation of all the risks involved with doing this job. Thanks for taking the time and effort you put into this presentation. Much appreciated, Dave from South Africa
Well done, great video. Just a point on the re-tensioning of the springs, if you open the door first there will be less pressure on the springs and less force on the screw driver.
Great informative video, Thank you, my rolla door now works a lot quieter 👍
Thank you for a very useful and informative video.
After watching your video, I’m thinking that as the spring winds up against itself, a lubricant with a higher viscosity would probably work better. Axle grease or mollybond comes to mind. A squeak is a high frequency vibration caused by two hard surfaces rubbing together. Silicone spray will have trouble creating the hydraulic wedge needed to separate the moving parts.
Nice MPS
Hey Mate
Out in the Outback in Lightning Ridge. Your tutorial plus reading the following comments resulted in my door for the first time on its life Running Silent & with obvious more ease.
Thankyou as 'ol squeaky it now silent .... best to you
Thanks mate, haven't been to Lightning Ridge since I was a wee tacker. Must visit again one day
i clicked on this because its very similar to my garage door. then you opened the door, and i was like oh wow, thats look like my view too. then i saw the ACT plate. Is this my house??! nope... HI NEIGHBOUR!! small world haha
👋 Be sure to grab some CRC TAC2 Adhesive lubricant from supercheap for the springs. It works wonders for the squeaks
Before removing the guide rails just mark the location of the L brackets on the wall with a pencil and replace them in their original positions, Job done !.
Thank you. Very useful👌👌👌
Thank you
Love your style mate.... great job
Hello on the slats when the door is down why not drill some slots in so you can get access to see the springs sat 10mm x 30mm then poke spray gun through 3 on each side should do
Would you also recommend this process for exterior security roller doors? The one in front of my office does not go up when I push the "On" button, and I have to manually raise it or use a broom to force it.
Oh wow. You are also in the ACT!
Yep born and bred 😁
Turps is also excellent for cleaning the guides if you don't have brake cleaner etc.
Excllent job
Better to use an tacky grease like motorcycle lube than silicone spray for the springs as a grease will adhere to the springs and work through the coil with use.
Yes this would be much better if you can access the springs.
Easy to do from the side of the drum, or in some cases, when the door is down, a gap at the top of the curtain appears or just drill a hole in the sheet
@@kuro-mont054 Drilling a hole (or a few), didn't think of that. Top idea!
would WD-40 Lithium Grease suffice?
Mate that's a good job on garage roller door maintenance - thanks for sharing. I found it a pretty clear and well demonstrated process. Mine's old and is tough to raise & lower (no auto opener either - might fit one) so I'm going to try this. Is that silicone spray OK for the roller door lock (also stiff)?
Silicone spray should be fine for the lock. For the torsion springs a viewer actually recommended some adhesive lubricant as it stays better than silicon spray, something like this www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/greases-lubricants/lubricants/crc-tac-2-adhesive-lubricant-spray-300g-5035/p/A4854802
Hello, I have the same doors, I have a problem that it gets stuck when its cold, can I use Q20 to lubricate?
Make sure the guide rails are not pinching the door at any point. Apparently it is not recommended to use any type of lubricant in the guide rails. Could also be the door is not tensioned properly - it should take around the same amount of force to lift it and pull it down manually. Lastly if it is squeaky, best to use some tacky adhesive spray on the springs, I used some CRC tac 2 and it's been silent since
Thanks Daniel Radcliffe!
Hi I have a device model GDO-5AS on a garage when I click to run it goes up and down for a second and then it stops and beeps from the device could you help me please.
I had the same problem with my roller door and it was brand new so I called out the installer and he reset my remote control to the door you have to press the button on the roller door and on the remote
My roller is going off track. Its moving too much on one side since installation. When it winds up you can see the coiled door is not wound flush.
Cool vid👍💯
I think that this noise is coming from where the motor body/support touches the wall bracket.
I do appreciate the time and effort that goes into making a video however I feel that your knowledge in regards to roller doors including potential issues and hazards as pointed out by the fact that you didn’t feel comfortable adjusting more spring tension or alternatively adjusting the spring tension while the roller was completely In the down position which is when the springs are under the highest tension and most dangerous, and while it’s all good to make a video I think you should’ve stopped at the cleaning and lubing, Know your limitations, it’s one thing to do it yourself but another thing entirely to teach people
Yes you are correct that it is under the highest tension when closed, for some reason I was thinking the opposite at the time. And this was also mentioned by another commenter that I pinned to the top of the comments.
Although I tried to make it as clear as possible that the procedure is potentially very dangerous, I agree that it should be removed from this video. Hopefully I can remove it from the video without ruining the rest, so this will happen in the next few days.
Thank you for your honest feedback
My lock is not lining up so you know how to fix it the lock that you twist from inside
If you took both rails off you could have got the door lower and got full access to your springs. Take care
My door looks like it wants to unravel itself when it’s opening what is going on
Needs more tention on the spring
Someone is recommending Lithium spray-on UA-cam, I might give Lithium spray a crack as Silicon not working well on ours also we got manual roller doors not electric.
Ha Ha. My roller door makes this exact sound, only about 10 times worse.
the tracks are to close to edge of roller door, thats whats squeaking
Eish 🤔
So you talk about more tension. Show it then. Come on. Ya Public Servant !
Haha, we're not all public servants mate. It was originally in the video but was removed
You can’t get at springs from spraying along the back!!!!
Possibly not with all doors, with mine you certainly can as the door fully unrolled when down so there is a gap at the back. But some doors are obviously different so YMMV
can see you a beta male im an alpha
Lol!!
You speak too much (a comment from india)
Shut up you dick head
Your comment got held by youtube, but I'll allow it. Made me laugh 😆
🤣you Are a nice guy I think
@@Sawickipedia You go out of your way to teach people something and they just tell you you talk too much, what a stupid comment. Cheers for the vid.
Please try to speak less
🙊🔦🚪🧹🚪🧼🚪🧴🧴🧴🔧🔩📏📐🔧🔩👍🍺
There is way too much tension on the springs to start with.There is NO difference before and after you sprayed.The screeching noise is from the channels and NOT from the springs.
The noise was indeed coming from the springs. After a suggestion in the comments (now the pinned comment) I sprayed some tacky grease CRC TAC2 onto the springs and all noise is completely gone. If the tension on the springs was incorrect the door would be too heavy or too light, so it would either roll up or down by itself when unlocked from the motor.