Thank you. You can use an all-purpose sewing thread. You can find it at big chain fabric stores and Walmart. If you go to a quilt store they sell mostly cotton thread, which I'm hesitant to say use because I don't know how much shrinkage it has after you wash and dry your t-shirt. There is also an elastic thread, Seraflex by Metler that is supposed to be great for knit fabric. It's harder to find, a little pricier and you have to hand wind it onto your bobbin (not too tight either). If you use elastic thread you can use a straight stitch and not the zigzag stitch. I know it's too much info, but you might be curious ;-). Thanks for watching the video
I love this so much! I was having trouble with a dress I made and had to add fish eye darts to give more definition at the sides. I think I prefer this for the future. The pattern I drafted already curves in at the sides. I wonder if measuring out the extra fabric and just measuring in from the curve would work. What do you think?
As long as where the pattern curves in is the same height as where you need it to curve in for your body it will work. Although fish-eye darts are trickier to sew they are a great solution for taking in excess fabric if you have pockets or zippers in the side seams. I’m glad you liked the video ☺️
Loved your tutorial! When you are making your own t-shirt, do you sew the side seams first, and then add the sleeve,? Or, do you put the sleeve in when the side seams are open. Thank-you, I will be following your advise and other topics.
I attach t-shirt sleeves before I sew the side seams. 1. I sew the right shoulder seam. 2. Set the neckband on starting and ending at the left shoulder seam (which is open so the neck is a U shape and not a closed circle) 3. Sew the left shoulder seam 4. Attach the sleeves while everything is flat. 5. Sew the sleeve and side seam in one go. 6. Hem. Not all necks can be finished before the neck opening is closed. But sleeves can still be put in flat on casual tops. (Not true for tailored or fitted shirts and jackets) Thank you for watching the video 😊
Hi I was looking for a tutorial on how to shape up a boxy t shirt and I seen yours first.Thank you for the great tutorial I will be watching more of your videos....Alice😁Oh I forgot to ask do you have a video on shirts or blouses that needs darts in the front of an already made shirt. Two years or so I had it and scared to try it with darts,thank you...
Great tips to add more fit! I was wondering if you made the top you are wearing as I am interested to try making a pattern for a boxy style top (cap sleeves incorporated into the bodice). Would you be able to feature a video on showing us how to make that pattern to sew? Thank you for a good video.
I did make this shirt. It’s a free pattern from Maria Denmark. You have to subscribe to her newsletter to download the pattern. It’s a pretty fast sew up because there is no binding to attach. I really like your idea to make it video. I think I will 😉
If I want to remove the sleeves and make them smaller, is there a way to still sew the side the way you showed? I love the idea of sewing the side before cutting it and not having to fight the knit fabric. This is a very helpful tutorial. Thank you.
yes, sew the sides if you're taking them in and if you are reducing the width of the sleeve you could also pinch and sew out the excess from the sleeve seam. The sleeve is sort of like the hem though so you might want to watch the next video - How to Shorten a T-shirt. It's the same technique. I recommend pinning or basting the sleeve then trying it on before permanently sewing to check you still have free arm movement. (sometimes the armhole becomes raised or too small and it's uncomfortable to wear) A while back I simply cut the sleeves at an angle to turn them into a cap sleeve. It worked great - but I would cut a little less off than you think because the fabric curls and the sleeve "shrinks". You can cut more off later if needed . Thanks for watching the video
Do you mean you sewed up the side, then trimmed the sleeves at an angle and sewed them up while still connected? Without removing the sleeves and cutting them down and then sewing them back on as usual? I hope that makes sense.
@@thelmalou1320 I didn't do that but I understand the question. I simply sewed up the sides - and then cut the end of the sleeves at an angle. They weren't too floppy just too square looking after I tapered the sides. But yes, You can take in the sleeves the same way as the sides - you don't have to take them apart. However, the tricky thing is the end or hem of the sleeve might show the extra fabric you took in. Method 1: The quick and dirty: If it shows you could simply cut the extra fabric, that pinch you took out, in half along the fold and let the two halfs fall to each side of the new seam. (Trim the halves if they are over 1/2") then you could tack down the fabric (what is now the new seam allowance) with a couple hand stitches so they don't peek out from the sleeve Method 2: for a dressier T or uniform T: Treat the sleeve like the body of the shirt. Take out (or cut off if the sleeve is too long) the sleeve's hem. Press it flat. Sew the sleeve to make it skinnier (like taking in the sides) and then fold the hem back in place and sew around the sleeve to sew the hem down. Watch this video How to Shorten a Knit top ua-cam.com/video/-gbxrZaP-NA/v-deo.htmlsi=tWZ2Gb86SgWJFnI2 to see how to sew on the outside of the shirt - The narrow zigzag . Thanks for your question. I hope this helps explain it better. And ask me again if it didn't 😉😀
Thank you so much for the thorough explanation. If you’d like to make a tutorial video so we can see you doing this step by step, I bet it would be well received 😊. I’m going to read over this and see if I can understand it well enough and give it a try 😊 Thank you again.
Thanks, this is just what I’ve been looking for, what a great video! My sewing machine is (quite basic) and I’m unable to adjust the width of my zig zag stitch. What stitch could I use instead? Thank you.
You could use your wide zig zag stitch and all would be fine - it just looks like a zig zag stitch whereas the thinner zig zag blends in a little better. But, if you want to try a regular straight stitch you can. You'll want to practice on scaps first - or practice just a few inches without securing the stitches at the start so you can remove the stitches if it looks bad. The trick here is to adjust the tension of your machine so the presser foot doesn't move the top layer to much as you sew. Going up and down on the shirt with a straight stitch, as you do on the side seams, is easier than sewing across the shirt (as in sewing a new hem). By easier I mean it stretches a little less. Try it and see without adjusting anything. Use a little longer stitch than the default length (usually that's 2.5 so I would use a 3)
Thanks for the excellent tutorial! You didn’t note thread type unless I missed it. Does it not matter if you get the right needle and stitch type? I struggle knowing whether I need stretchy thread. Thank you!!
This is a good question. All the options can make it more confusing. You can use all purpose thread. That’s what I use. It’s the basic stuff. You do want a “universal” needle or a “jersey” needle. (Jersey is knitted fabric). And stitch type for the side seams can actually be a straight stitch. For anywhere on the garment that needs to stretch (putting it on or wearing) use a narrow and long zig-zag stitch.
Curved rulers are nice to have if you will be blending different sizes together on a multi-sized pattern and if you typically adjust (add or taper) your hip area (on a pattern or on clothes). But if you just want to get your sides the same you can trace one side seam ( if you haven’t sewn it yet, trace your line that your going to sew) with tracing paper. Trace some points to reference (like hem or neckline or underarm intersection) then cut off the paper that’s on the outside of your line. Lay the tracing on the other side of the shirt. Line up your reference points and draw onto the shirt along the edge of your tracing. Now your new seam line is transferred to the other side. So a curved ruler is faster but only worth the cost if you’re doing this often.
This is very well explained and informative. I usually sew the seams in the same direction. Was there a reason why you sewed one seam top to bottom and reversed direction for the other? Does that keep the seams even?
You are supposed to sew garments top to bottom - so from shoulder down to shirt hem, waistband down to the ankle but it doesn't always seem to matter. I sewed in opposite directions simply because I drew the new seam line on the front of the shirt, the same as the other side's seam line and out of habit I put the bulk of the shirt to the left of my needle. But you are right, sewing in the same direction is best. However, you're right about keeping things even too. On fabrics that really move, I do purposely sew opposite seams in the opposite direction to keep things sort of even (basting would probably be a better way to keep things where they need to be but some projects aren't always worth basting)
This was such a helpful tutorial! I've been sewing for decades, but I've been kinda winging it, just vaguely remembering what I was taught in 7th grade! I had two questions about this tutorial; one, it looks like you didn't backtack the initial stitches (up at the armpits); I always thought you had to start a stitch with a backtack to keep it from coming apart. Do you know something I don't know? And second, I didn't know there were needles specifically for jersey knits! Do you know what size/kind of needle would be appropriate for a knit top that's more like a very light sweater? Thicker than a tee shirt, for sure, but thinner than a sweater. I hope that makes sense; I don't know the term for this kind of garment. Anyway, I don't expect a response, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask. Thank you so much for posting this!
I'm glad you found the video helpful. Backtacking: I sometimes just forget ;-) but there are a couple other ways to start and stop your stitches. 1. Start the seam with a .5 stitch length stitch for a couple of stitches then adjust to your needed stitch length. The super tiny stitches will lock the seam in place. (but good luck if you have to rip that seam out) 2. don't backtack and leave a tail of thread when you're done. Gently pull the bobbin thread tail to bring the top thread to the back. Tie the two threads together into a little square knot. This is great for topstitching and sewing down patch pockets where you don't want a big blob of stitches showing on the front side of the garment. For Needles: I like and use Schmetz brand needles. For knits, you can use Universal or Jersey needles (I always switch to Jersey out of habit). If your knit fabric has spandex in it use a Stretch type needle (helps avoid skipped stitches). For sweater knits I would start with a size 90 needle but so test on a scrap because some sweater knits are lighter than others. Generally, like woven fabrics, the heavier the fabric the larger needle size. And here's a tip I just learned - since it's hard to pin sweater knits (they disappear into the thickness) use clips in their place.
@@TheDailySew These are all such great tips, thank you so much!! I've always considered leaving long tails and just square knotting them, but never tried it. :) You're so generous with your help, thank you thank you!!
Hi! Enjoyed the video. Do you ever use a serger? I have a Babylock 4 thread serger and would love to know what settings to use. Please share if you know. Thank you, J
I do use a serger and I have some settings to share except I can’t until next week when I’m back with my machine. But I will write back as soon as I can, promise. 🙂
@@2lakesea When I serge knits I use the 4-thread stitch (you could use either 3 or 4 with knits). As you know, knits come in all different weights and ways of stretching so testing on a scrap is always recommended. I have my serger set up with all-purpose serging thread (not the stretchy nylon type) and I usually use universal needles - size 70 or 80 depending how thick my knit is. So I always go through a checklist in my head and that's the best way to tell you ;-) Just skip the steps that are obvious to you - Needles: Replace? (if old) Type? Size? -Thread (Threading correctly is everything) -Tension dials: Higher numbers let more thread through so if your loops are too big dial them down. For knits, I usually set them around 4 (My dials go from 0 to 9) but these may have to be fine-tuned. -Differential Feed: For knits You always want it higher than neutral or 1. I start with mine set at 1.75 and then adjust after testing. The higher number = more of a difference between the front and rear feed dogs. The difference is what helps knits from being stretched too much while serging which results in the wavy, lettuce edge. - Stitch Length: T-shirt type knits I use 2.5 - Pressure foot: If my differential feed is up all the way and I'm still getting wavy seams I will take some pressure off the pressure foot. My machine doesn't have a way of indicating how much I've adjusted it so I have no setting to share. (Usually one or two turns of the knob) I hope this helps. Thanks for your patience.
If you use a needle made for woven fabric the needle will pierce and possibly cut the threads as it goes through the knit fabric. You may see a hole right away when this happens or holes could show up later as you wash and wear the garment. If you use a universal needle you shouldn't have this problem because they are made with a slightly rounded point that should move the threads that make up the fabric out of the way as it sews. No guarantee but if it's a new universal needle your chances are pretty darn low. If you use a needle specifically made to sew knit fabric you are certain not to pierce or cut your fabric with the needle. Next would be selecting the correct size needle for your fabric. The thinner/lighter weight your fabric is the smaller the needle you need. You want the right size so the stitches are formed correctly. Thanks for the great question. I need to put these types of questions and answers IN the videos.
@@TheDailySew Thank you so much for the detailed reply! It's so much clearer now. I was hoping to go ahead with the universal needle, but I wouldn't want to risk breaking the fabric thread so I think I'll go out and buy a new needle. :) Thanks again!
@@lenalee7241 Do you have a scrap of the fabric you could try the universal needle on? It's supposed to be ok - that's why they call it a Universal needle. The more stretch your fabric has though and I would definitely switch to a Stretch or Jersey needle
@@TheDailySew Haha yes, I was hoping that the universal needle would be kind of the "all-mighty", but it is brand new so.. Thank you for the suggestion. I might test it out first on the cut off fabric from the t-shirt. I'm planning to shorten the hem on a mixed material top that has a high amount of polyester, so I'm not sure it's going to be the same as any other cotton top.
I learned something new about the skinny and long zig zag. Everything was extremely informative.
Yay - thanks for watching the video
Fabulous. So well explained with so many little helpful tips and extra information. Thank you!
thanks - and thank you for watching
I love your pointing arrows!!!
😁 Thank you.
Very clear instructions. Thank you so much!
Thanks
Great detailed tutorial. I'm inspired. Thank you.
you got this!
You explain this very well , thank you
This was incredibly informative for a newbie!!
Great to hear this. Thank you
Great tips and instruction!
Thanks!
Very informative! explains some of the problems ive had in the past
Thank you.
Great tutorial!
Excellent video! Super helpful 🙂
What type of thread should we use for tee shirt fabric and for tissue weight fabric, please. I loved this video. You are a great nstructor.
Thank you. You can use an all-purpose sewing thread. You can find it at big chain fabric stores and Walmart. If you go to a quilt store they sell mostly cotton thread, which I'm hesitant to say use because I don't know how much shrinkage it has after you wash and dry your t-shirt. There is also an elastic thread, Seraflex by Metler that is supposed to be great for knit fabric. It's harder to find, a little pricier and you have to hand wind it onto your bobbin (not too tight either). If you use elastic thread you can use a straight stitch and not the zigzag stitch. I know it's too much info, but you might be curious ;-). Thanks for watching the video
I love this so much! I was having trouble with a dress I made and had to add fish eye darts to give more definition at the sides. I think I prefer this for the future.
The pattern I drafted already curves in at the sides. I wonder if measuring out the extra fabric and just measuring in from the curve would work.
What do you think?
As long as where the pattern curves in is the same height as where you need it to curve in for your body it will work.
Although fish-eye darts are trickier to sew they are a great solution for taking in excess fabric if you have pockets or zippers in the side seams.
I’m glad you liked the video ☺️
Excellent Video! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! Glad it was helpful.
Really helpful! Thank you!
Great to hear. Thank you
Really helpful, thank you.
Thanks!
Loved your tutorial! When you are making your own t-shirt, do you sew the side seams first, and then add the sleeve,? Or, do you put the sleeve in when the side seams are open. Thank-you, I will be following your advise and other topics.
I attach t-shirt sleeves before I sew the side seams. 1. I sew the right shoulder seam. 2. Set the neckband on starting and ending at the left shoulder seam (which is open so the neck is a U shape and not a closed circle) 3. Sew the left shoulder seam 4. Attach the sleeves while everything is flat. 5. Sew the sleeve and side seam in one go. 6. Hem.
Not all necks can be finished before the neck opening is closed. But sleeves can still be put in flat on casual tops. (Not true for tailored or fitted shirts and jackets)
Thank you for watching the video 😊
Really good tutorial thank you.
Cheryl Anderson thanks and thank you for watching
Hi I was looking for a tutorial on how to shape up a boxy t shirt and I seen yours first.Thank you for the great tutorial I will be watching more of your videos....Alice😁Oh I forgot to ask do you have a video on shirts or blouses that needs darts in the front of an already made shirt. Two years or so I had it and scared to try it with darts,thank you...
Thanks, Alice. I don’t have a video for adding darts to a ready made shirt but that’s a great idea 💡
Great tips to add more fit! I was wondering if you made the top you are wearing as I am interested to try making a pattern for a boxy style top (cap sleeves incorporated into the bodice). Would you be able to feature a video on showing us how to make that pattern to sew? Thank you for a good video.
I did make this shirt. It’s a free pattern from Maria Denmark. You have to subscribe to her newsletter to download the pattern. It’s a pretty fast sew up because there is no binding to attach. I really like your idea to make it video. I think I will 😉
If I want to remove the sleeves and make them smaller, is there a way to still sew the side the way you showed? I love the idea of sewing the side before cutting it and not having to fight the knit fabric. This is a very helpful tutorial. Thank you.
yes, sew the sides if you're taking them in and if you are reducing the width of the sleeve you could also pinch and sew out the excess from the sleeve seam. The sleeve is sort of like the hem though so you might want to watch the next video - How to Shorten a T-shirt. It's the same technique. I recommend pinning or basting the sleeve then trying it on before permanently sewing to check you still have free arm movement. (sometimes the armhole becomes raised or too small and it's uncomfortable to wear)
A while back I simply cut the sleeves at an angle to turn them into a cap sleeve. It worked great - but I would cut a little less off than you think because the fabric curls and the sleeve "shrinks". You can cut more off later if needed .
Thanks for watching the video
Thank you so much for the response. 😊 I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Do you mean you sewed up the side, then trimmed the sleeves at an angle and sewed them up while still connected? Without removing the sleeves and cutting them down and then sewing them back on as usual? I hope that makes sense.
@@thelmalou1320 I didn't do that but I understand the question. I simply sewed up the sides - and then cut the end of the sleeves at an angle. They weren't too floppy just too square looking after I tapered the sides. But yes, You can take in the sleeves the same way as the sides - you don't have to take them apart. However, the tricky thing is the end or hem of the sleeve might show the extra fabric you took in.
Method 1: The quick and dirty: If it shows you could simply cut the extra fabric, that pinch you took out, in half along the fold and let the two halfs fall to each side of the new seam. (Trim the halves if they are over 1/2") then you could tack down the fabric (what is now the new seam allowance) with a couple hand stitches so they don't peek out from the sleeve
Method 2: for a dressier T or uniform T: Treat the sleeve like the body of the shirt. Take out (or cut off if the sleeve is too long) the sleeve's hem. Press it flat. Sew the sleeve to make it skinnier (like taking in the sides) and then fold the hem back in place and sew around the sleeve to sew the hem down. Watch this video How to Shorten a Knit top ua-cam.com/video/-gbxrZaP-NA/v-deo.htmlsi=tWZ2Gb86SgWJFnI2 to see how to sew on the outside of the shirt - The narrow zigzag .
Thanks for your question. I hope this helps explain it better. And ask me again if it didn't 😉😀
Thank you so much for the thorough explanation. If you’d like to make a tutorial video so we can see you doing this step by step, I bet it would be well received 😊. I’m going to read over this and see if I can understand it well enough and give it a try 😊 Thank you again.
Thanks, this is just what I’ve been looking for, what a great video! My sewing machine is (quite basic) and I’m unable to adjust the width of my zig zag stitch. What stitch could I use instead? Thank you.
You could use your wide zig zag stitch and all would be fine - it just looks like a zig zag stitch whereas the thinner zig zag blends in a little better. But, if you want to try a regular straight stitch you can. You'll want to practice on scaps first - or practice just a few inches without securing the stitches at the start so you can remove the stitches if it looks bad. The trick here is to adjust the tension of your machine so the presser foot doesn't move the top layer to much as you sew. Going up and down on the shirt with a straight stitch, as you do on the side seams, is easier than sewing across the shirt (as in sewing a new hem). By easier I mean it stretches a little less. Try it and see without adjusting anything. Use a little longer stitch than the default length (usually that's 2.5 so I would use a 3)
Thanks for the excellent tutorial! You didn’t note thread type unless I missed it. Does it not matter if you get the right needle and stitch type? I struggle knowing whether I need stretchy thread. Thank you!!
This is a good question. All the options can make it more confusing. You can use all purpose thread. That’s what I use. It’s the basic stuff. You do want a “universal” needle or a “jersey” needle. (Jersey is knitted fabric). And stitch type for the side seams can actually be a straight stitch. For anywhere on the garment that needs to stretch (putting it on or wearing) use a narrow and long zig-zag stitch.
Instead of the zig zag stitch can the side seams be stitched with my serger?
Absolutely!
Would you suggest I invest in a curved ruler to have symmetrical sides?
Curved rulers are nice to have if you will be blending different sizes together on a multi-sized pattern and if you typically adjust (add or taper) your hip area (on a pattern or on clothes). But if you just want to get your sides the same you can trace one side seam ( if you haven’t sewn it yet, trace your line that your going to sew) with tracing paper. Trace some points to reference (like hem or neckline or underarm intersection) then cut off the paper that’s on the outside of your line. Lay the tracing on the other side of the shirt. Line up your reference points and draw onto the shirt along the edge of your tracing. Now your new seam line is transferred to the other side. So a curved ruler is faster but only worth the cost if you’re doing this often.
@@TheDailySew thank you for your quick reply. Appreciate your tutorial on this.
This is very well explained and informative. I usually sew the seams in the same direction. Was there a reason why you sewed one seam top to bottom and reversed direction for the other? Does that keep the seams even?
You are supposed to sew garments top to bottom - so from shoulder down to shirt hem, waistband down to the ankle but it doesn't always seem to matter. I sewed in opposite directions simply because I drew the new seam line on the front of the shirt, the same as the other side's seam line and out of habit I put the bulk of the shirt to the left of my needle. But you are right, sewing in the same direction is best. However, you're right about keeping things even too. On fabrics that really move, I do purposely sew opposite seams in the opposite direction to keep things sort of even (basting would probably be a better way to keep things where they need to be but some projects aren't always worth basting)
@@TheDailySew thank you for explaining. It's the little ins and outs of sewing that are so helpful
@@SueM406 yes, totally agree.
This was such a helpful tutorial! I've been sewing for decades, but I've been kinda winging it, just vaguely remembering what I was taught in 7th grade!
I had two questions about this tutorial; one, it looks like you didn't backtack the initial stitches (up at the armpits); I always thought you had to start a stitch with a backtack to keep it from coming apart. Do you know something I don't know?
And second, I didn't know there were needles specifically for jersey knits! Do you know what size/kind of needle would be appropriate for a knit top that's more like a very light sweater? Thicker than a tee shirt, for sure, but thinner than a sweater. I hope that makes sense; I don't know the term for this kind of garment.
Anyway, I don't expect a response, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask. Thank you so much for posting this!
I'm glad you found the video helpful. Backtacking: I sometimes just forget ;-) but there are a couple other ways to start and stop your stitches. 1. Start the seam with a .5 stitch length stitch for a couple of stitches then adjust to your needed stitch length. The super tiny stitches will lock the seam in place. (but good luck if you have to rip that seam out) 2. don't backtack and leave a tail of thread when you're done. Gently pull the bobbin thread tail to bring the top thread to the back. Tie the two threads together into a little square knot. This is great for topstitching and sewing down patch pockets where you don't want a big blob of stitches showing on the front side of the garment.
For Needles: I like and use Schmetz brand needles. For knits, you can use Universal or Jersey needles (I always switch to Jersey out of habit). If your knit fabric has spandex in it use a Stretch type needle (helps avoid skipped stitches). For sweater knits I would start with a size 90 needle but so test on a scrap because some sweater knits are lighter than others. Generally, like woven fabrics, the heavier the fabric the larger needle size. And here's a tip I just learned - since it's hard to pin sweater knits (they disappear into the thickness) use clips in their place.
@@TheDailySew These are all such great tips, thank you so much!! I've always considered leaving long tails and just square knotting them, but never tried it. :) You're so generous with your help, thank you thank you!!
Hi! Enjoyed the video. Do you ever use a serger? I have a Babylock 4 thread serger and would love to know what settings to use. Please share if you know. Thank you, J
I do use a serger and I have some settings to share except I can’t until next week when I’m back with my machine. But I will write back as soon as I can, promise. 🙂
@@TheDailySew Thank you!
@@2lakesea When I serge knits I use the 4-thread stitch (you could use either 3 or 4 with knits). As you know, knits come in all different weights and ways of stretching so testing on a scrap is always recommended. I have my serger set up with all-purpose serging thread (not the stretchy nylon type) and I usually use universal needles - size 70 or 80 depending how thick my knit is.
So I always go through a checklist in my head and that's the best way to tell you ;-) Just skip the steps that are obvious to you
- Needles: Replace? (if old) Type? Size?
-Thread (Threading correctly is everything)
-Tension dials: Higher numbers let more thread through so if your loops are too big dial them down. For knits, I usually set them around 4 (My dials go from 0 to 9) but these may have to be fine-tuned.
-Differential Feed: For knits You always want it higher than neutral or 1. I start with mine set at 1.75 and then adjust after testing. The higher number = more of a difference between the front and rear feed dogs. The difference is what helps knits from being stretched too much while serging which results in the wavy, lettuce edge.
- Stitch Length: T-shirt type knits I use 2.5
- Pressure foot: If my differential feed is up all the way and I'm still getting wavy seams I will take some pressure off the pressure foot. My machine doesn't have a way of indicating how much I've adjusted it so I have no setting to share. (Usually one or two turns of the knob)
I hope this helps. Thanks for your patience.
@@TheDailySew Thank you so very much! I’ll test and play 😉
what kind of issues could we expect to see if we used the wrong type of needle?
If you use a needle made for woven fabric the needle will pierce and possibly cut the threads as it goes through the knit fabric. You may see a hole right away when this happens or holes could show up later as you wash and wear the garment.
If you use a universal needle you shouldn't have this problem because they are made with a slightly rounded point that should move the threads that make up the fabric out of the way as it sews. No guarantee but if it's a new universal needle your chances are pretty darn low.
If you use a needle specifically made to sew knit fabric you are certain not to pierce or cut your fabric with the needle.
Next would be selecting the correct size needle for your fabric. The thinner/lighter weight your fabric is the smaller the needle you need. You want the right size so the stitches are formed correctly.
Thanks for the great question. I need to put these types of questions and answers IN the videos.
@@TheDailySew Thank you so much for the detailed reply! It's so much clearer now.
I was hoping to go ahead with the universal needle, but I wouldn't want to risk breaking the fabric thread so I think I'll go out and buy a new needle. :) Thanks again!
@@lenalee7241 Do you have a scrap of the fabric you could try the universal needle on? It's supposed to be ok - that's why they call it a Universal needle. The more stretch your fabric has though and I would definitely switch to a Stretch or Jersey needle
@@TheDailySew Haha yes, I was hoping that the universal needle would be kind of the "all-mighty", but it is brand new so..
Thank you for the suggestion. I might test it out first on the cut off fabric from the t-shirt.
I'm planning to shorten the hem on a mixed material top that has a high amount of polyester, so I'm not sure it's going to be the same as any other cotton top.
@@lenalee7241 I'm curious if the Universal needle works. Keep me posted.