The manual reports the stator is rated to 230 watts. It does not report the operating wattage of the bike, however the manual says that the accessory port under the headlight is rated at 15 amps. This says to me there is at least 15 amps of free power that can be used. My heated grips and heated jacket at full fused amperage would operate at 12 amps. I believe I am operating within the load capacity of the stator. The rating can be found on page 253 of English manual.
I'm a bit confused why the power of the stator is relevant, as the relay will only be drawing milliamps on the ignition side, the other side you have connected straight to the battery, no? Which is what Oxford say to do anyways, Lead batteries being able to supply a lot of current.
@@AsyncVoid True but over an entire day of riding with heated gear and heated grips if the stator isn't producing enough power the battery will begin to drain in order to keep everything powered. If the power draw exceeds the stator output then the battery will be drained. Maybe not completely but it will be drained over time.
Thanks for the wiring diagram. I've also added the oxford grips, warm and safe jacket and auxbeam 6 function pod lights. Wasn't to worried about the grip heaters but wanted to have the lights turn off with the ignition. Ended up with something close to your diagram. The information on the stator is also one I'm interested in. Really enjoy your videos.
I put Apollo heated grips on mine, but wired directly into the switched accessory wire under the seat with no problems. I’m going to put in some Aux lights this winter, but I’m not sure if I’ll go the behind the headlight switched aux with a relay, or piggyback off the rear that I’m already using for the grips. Taking headlight off looks like a lot of work.
There is a small access panel under the headlight to get to the auxiliary power leads. I am just now sure how you will run the wires from headlight. As you suggest you might have to do a big disassembly. Be careful not to overload the auxiliary power leads with too many accessories. I think it is only rated for five amps. It has been awhile since I looked at the manual but that is what I remember.
Very cool. Thank you for sharing. I have bought my 390 last December, and many parts have been/are coming over to be installed. I'm looking forward taking my bike on BDRs. I really appreciate your channel for so much great info (especially) for KTM 390 Adventure community. I was able to sale the bike purchase, but will need to figure out how to sale the upgrades :). Perhaps I will see you on the trail
Very thorough relay install Matt. Nicely done. I was looking forward to watching you struggle with getting the grips on though, after fighting mine into the same bars.🤣 - Frank
I came up with a better solution. Take a look at this video. It will keep you from getting into the factory wiring harness and is really easy to add accessories. ua-cam.com/video/JTlwD74i05w/v-deo.htmlsi=lGCUSOF_0BD_aPoD
I used the same butt connectors for my Campervan wiring, and with a heat gun they will tighten up well. That said, I always do as you suggested here, and use the heat shrink tubing it's far more durable to abrasion. And a pack can be had for $5. - Frank
Nice vid. Electrical stuff is not my strong suit but could you not have wired the grips directly to the switched factory accessorry plugs? I guess I don't see what the relay gets you beyond the factory plugs?
I don't know the load rating for the factory switched contacts. If the load rating is less then what is needed for the grips the circuit would trip. I didn't want a large current running through the factory switched contacts so using a relay keeps the load off of the factory circuit.
Hi mate, thanks for the video. I have read the comments, but why was the YELLOW wire left over ? I am used to having bolts left over, but wires ? :D PS. Could it be because you are not using a separate on/off switch like for fog lights etc ?
@@shaughanask571 hey, hopefully I can explain this for you. I haven't looked at the wiring diagram in a while but as I remember the yellow wire is the normally closed contact. Relays normally have two contacts known as normally open and normally closed. This indicates the status of the contact when the relay is not energized. When the relay is energized the Nomrally Open contact closes and the Normally Closed contact opens. The yellow lead is for the normally closed contact. Therefore it is not necessary to use, but the end needs to be covered in insulation so it doesn't short out if the relay is wired straight to a power source that is always on.
@shaughanask571 if you are adding an on/off switch it needs to be in series with the trigger side of the relay. Positive power goes to the switch then the other side of the switch goes to the positive side of the relay, or the trigger/coil wire.
@@shaughanask571 checkout this link for other ways to wire accessories in. I found this more recently and prefer this over my old method. ua-cam.com/video/JTlwD74i05w/v-deo.htmlsi=2KrRxBZCRp1BpsS3
I have t-shirts and stickers but I haven't starting selling them yet, but it is the works. It will be at cost. I hadn't considered selling the banner but I could. If these are things you are interested in send me an email at advmattx2@gmail.com and we can discuss. I need to get a website setup. It's on my to do list. Thanks for you interest in my channel.
I'm not understanding why the relay is needed. If you tap into the hot wire that's downstream of the ignition, it will always turn off when key is turned.
The relay keeps you from overloading the circuit you tap into. Ignition switched circuits have limited load capacity. Heated grips running at full heat can draw up to five amps or more. This could melt the wire you tapped into or overload the circuit burning out a fuse. A power relay protects the bikes original wiring circuits.
The relay has two circuits in it. One circuit for the power to grips from the battery. The second circuit is the one triggered when the bike is turned on. The trigger enables power from the battery to the grips by closing the relay contacts. I chose to switch the ground not the power side. It is all about how you complete the circuit. It doesn't matter where the relay is in the circuit.
It’s frustrating they don’t just have the accessory wires already connected to the ignition switch… who needs accessory wires that are just hot all the time? It’s the simplest thing in the world to just hook up some wires to your battery, it’s the ignition switched accessories everyone needs/wants and has no idea what to tap into.
The manual reports the stator is rated to 230 watts. It does not report the operating wattage of the bike, however the manual says that the accessory port under the headlight is rated at 15 amps. This says to me there is at least 15 amps of free power that can be used. My heated grips and heated jacket at full fused amperage would operate at 12 amps. I believe I am operating within the load capacity of the stator. The rating can be found on page 253 of English manual.
I'm a bit confused why the power of the stator is relevant, as the relay will only be drawing milliamps on the ignition side, the other side you have connected straight to the battery, no? Which is what Oxford say to do anyways, Lead batteries being able to supply a lot of current.
@@AsyncVoid True but over an entire day of riding with heated gear and heated grips if the stator isn't producing enough power the battery will begin to drain in order to keep everything powered. If the power draw exceeds the stator output then the battery will be drained. Maybe not completely but it will be drained over time.
@@advmatt I see, and because the stator is running the grips won't sense the lower voltage and cut off, make sense! Thanks for explaining
Love the zip tie pointer. Good explanation!
Oh my god, I’ve been thinking about doing this but there are no good videos on this. Thanks you!
Thanks for the wiring diagram. I've also added the oxford grips, warm and safe jacket and auxbeam 6 function pod lights. Wasn't to worried about the grip heaters but wanted to have the lights turn off with the ignition. Ended up with something close to your diagram. The information on the stator is also one I'm interested in. Really enjoy your videos.
Glad you found the diagram helpful. I will post anything I can learn about the stator. Cheers.
Nicely done Matt.
I put Apollo heated grips on mine, but wired directly into the switched accessory wire under the seat with no problems. I’m going to put in some Aux lights this winter, but I’m not sure if I’ll go the behind the headlight switched aux with a relay, or piggyback off the rear that I’m already using for the grips. Taking headlight off looks like a lot of work.
There is a small access panel under the headlight to get to the auxiliary power leads. I am just now sure how you will run the wires from headlight. As you suggest you might have to do a big disassembly. Be careful not to overload the auxiliary power leads with too many accessories. I think it is only rated for five amps. It has been awhile since I looked at the manual but that is what I remember.
Very cool. Thank you for sharing. I have bought my 390 last December, and many parts have been/are coming over to be installed. I'm looking forward taking my bike on BDRs. I really appreciate your channel for so much great info (especially) for KTM 390 Adventure community. I was able to sale the bike purchase, but will need to figure out how to sale the upgrades :).
Perhaps I will see you on the trail
Very thorough relay install Matt. Nicely done. I was looking forward to watching you struggle with getting the grips on though, after fighting mine into the same bars.🤣 - Frank
Grip video is coming. Is was tough but I did a few things to make it easier. Cheers.
@@advmatt Looking forward to it. I saw your sanding... I got frustrated with that and broke out the dremel and sanding wheel! - Frank
Thank you! 🙏
I came up with a better solution. Take a look at this video. It will keep you from getting into the factory wiring harness and is really easy to add accessories. ua-cam.com/video/JTlwD74i05w/v-deo.htmlsi=lGCUSOF_0BD_aPoD
I used the same butt connectors for my Campervan wiring, and with a heat gun they will tighten up well. That said, I always do as you suggested here, and use the heat shrink tubing it's far more durable to abrasion. And a pack can be had for $5. - Frank
Nice vid. Electrical stuff is not my strong suit but could you not have wired the grips directly to the switched factory accessorry plugs? I guess I don't see what the relay gets you beyond the factory plugs?
I don't know the load rating for the factory switched contacts. If the load rating is less then what is needed for the grips the circuit would trip. I didn't want a large current running through the factory switched contacts so using a relay keeps the load off of the factory circuit.
Electric Paint Stripper works well for heatshrink
Hi mate, thanks for the video. I have read the comments, but why was the YELLOW wire left over ?
I am used to having bolts left over, but wires ? :D
PS. Could it be because you are not using a separate on/off switch like for fog lights etc ?
@@shaughanask571 hey, hopefully I can explain this for you. I haven't looked at the wiring diagram in a while but as I remember the yellow wire is the normally closed contact. Relays normally have two contacts known as normally open and normally closed. This indicates the status of the contact when the relay is not energized. When the relay is energized the Nomrally Open contact closes and the Normally Closed contact opens. The yellow lead is for the normally closed contact. Therefore it is not necessary to use, but the end needs to be covered in insulation so it doesn't short out if the relay is wired straight to a power source that is always on.
@@advmatt Hey Matt, thanks for the quick reply. :) Just when I thought I had it figured !
If it is as you say, how do you wire the on/off switch in ?
@shaughanask571 if you are adding an on/off switch it needs to be in series with the trigger side of the relay. Positive power goes to the switch then the other side of the switch goes to the positive side of the relay, or the trigger/coil wire.
@@shaughanask571 checkout this link for other ways to wire accessories in. I found this more recently and prefer this over my old method. ua-cam.com/video/JTlwD74i05w/v-deo.htmlsi=2KrRxBZCRp1BpsS3
Do the Oxford grips fit on your new bars? As I remember they were a larger diameter than the stock bars.
Yes, the video will be out next week. The diameter of the bar at the grips stays the same, the change in size occurs at the clamp.
I realized that after I ordered the bars. Thanks so much for your help, you are great!
Hey Matt!! Do you sell merch like the poster behind you in this vid??
I have t-shirts and stickers but I haven't starting selling them yet, but it is the works. It will be at cost. I hadn't considered selling the banner but I could. If these are things you are interested in send me an email at advmattx2@gmail.com and we can discuss. I need to get a website setup. It's on my to do list. Thanks for you interest in my channel.
I'm not understanding why the relay is needed. If you tap into the hot wire that's downstream of the ignition, it will always turn off when key is turned.
The relay keeps you from overloading the circuit you tap into. Ignition switched circuits have limited load capacity. Heated grips running at full heat can draw up to five amps or more. This could melt the wire you tapped into or overload the circuit burning out a fuse. A power relay protects the bikes original wiring circuits.
I'm so confused. I thought the relay is supposed to be connected to the battery, and then the grips to the relay???
The relay has two circuits in it. One circuit for the power to grips from the battery. The second circuit is the one triggered when the bike is turned on. The trigger enables power from the battery to the grips by closing the relay contacts. I chose to switch the ground not the power side. It is all about how you complete the circuit. It doesn't matter where the relay is in the circuit.
@@advmatt Ahh I understand. Electrics have always been a bit confusing to me. Thanks
It’s frustrating they don’t just have the accessory wires already connected to the ignition switch… who needs accessory wires that are just hot all the time? It’s the simplest thing in the world to just hook up some wires to your battery, it’s the ignition switched accessories everyone needs/wants and has no idea what to tap into.
@@travispratt6327 moto wiring can be a real pain.