Protip!!! Use hairspray as lubricant for getting the grips on! Water works, as does windex, and we all know not to use an actual lubricant because that'll make for a slippery grip, but hairspray combines the benefits of using water, with a little extra "stick" when it dries. I've built and rebuilt countless bikes in the last decade, and I would seriously caution anyone against using solid adhesives like contact/rubber cement and superglue. We're modders, we like mucking around, and I guarantee at least 50% of people that install new grips will eventually have a reason to replace the handlebars, at which point you'll be glad that you can remove the grips without destroying them.
Hairspray won't work on Oxford heated grips as the inside of the grips are a plastic tube as opposed to a normal grip which is rubber on the inside. The hairspray will not stick between the plastic and bar or throttle tube.
My clutch grip solution: I sprayed the HECK out of the bar and inside of the grip with windex. I slid the grip on 85% of the way without an issue. I then tapped it the rest of with a rubber mallet. - Frank
I forgot about the windex trick. I had to glue mine, twice. It was spinning after the first install. We all learn little tips and tricks. Thanks for adding that one.
During my install...I used a little water at first to determine the best grip location. The water made it easy to slide the grips on and off. Final grip placement was with superglue 👍
Rather than fix the grips in place with the superglue provided (one chance only, crap or bust), on the 3 sets I've fitted, I used a contact adhesive (Evostik or similar). Slide the grip on when the glue is still liquid and you can adjust the position at leaisure for a long time. You do need to give the glue 24 hours to go off completely though. Regards the DC ammeter, you already have one for up to 10 amps.! Use the common and left hand sockets of your existing meter.
Great tip on the glue. Absolutely right, I could have used the meter in series with the circuit to measure the current. I should have tried it, I was thinking it would pop the 10 Amp fuse, but even if it did its closer to knowing than not. Thanks for the reminder.
I used a drill bit to space out the throttle side so to make sure that there was space for the atlas throttle lock. Can't remember if it was 1/8 or 3/16. I was able to rotate the cord to face back towards the rider to be able to fully apply the brake no matter where the throttle was but had to fully rotate the atlas to where it is right on top of the heated grip cord. Tight but makes for a clean install.
I did it the easy way - I let my dealer do it when I bought my 390 !! I doubt very much if you can run the grips on high very long as they get too hot even in near freezing conditions !!
Everyones miliage may vary for sure and the bottom line is if they dont move after install its good. I had to redo my clutch side after a couple mths when it started moving. No big deal. I thought of the Alcohol /windex idea since I had installed many bicycle grips that way. But I figured Oxford knew best , which may or may not be the case. I had an anxious moment when the throttle side stuck 3/16 from where I wanted it. I managed to move it in position but was freaking out for a moment. There is definitely room for error and you need to think the process through for your own install.
Nice install. The repair manual shows a total output of 230W, but the charging system components will run very hot pulling high amperage at idle. So probably better to go inside rather than use the drive through to get your daily burrito. 😉
TLDR at the bottom. I utilized my dremel for the throttle body. If you are using a cutting wheel, I can see a potential problem, a sanding wheel should be fine. If you have any experience with a dremel, I feel, having used one to sand down a minimum of three throttle bodies, there is no danger of going too far. Especially in the 390, as your just removing the strips of raised plastic, not the entire throttle body. TLDR: Matt is not wrong, you could screw up your throttle body if you have no dremel experience. If you do, you will be fine. - Frank
Thank you for great instructional video. I wonder what voltage were you getting with all the accessories on (including lights, phone/navigation) also. Would the stater be able to run all previously mentioned and charge the battery (i.e. after cold night battery discharged). Thank you
When I measured the voltage the only item from your list not operating was a navigation system. The current draw on these systems is usually less than Amp, closer to half an Amp so it won't really make a huge difference. At idle the voltage drop is the most, once the engine winds up it is not as much and more current is generated. I am keeping a close eye on the voltage and health of the stator. Hope that helps.
Have you seen the Koso Apollo Heated Grips. Oxford is quality stuff, I've heard, but the Apollo has a neat little indicator light and no big control panel. thx S
I was looking at those because the heater control is on the left grip perfectly places for thumb control. I decided the $30 price difference wasn't worth it. Cheers.
@@sdefiel3719 Frugal! Though I went with Oxford because they were $50 lower on Amazon the day I ordered! The giant control panel is annoying... - Frank
Not related to subject in this video. When riding do you use goggles, glasses or just helmet's visor. Riding lately local trails, there were quite few 4x4. When I got behind the dust was pretty bad, at which point I had to close my visor, but the air flow was now minimized; which prompts my question. I'm using Arai XD4 which has great ventilation, but I still prefer riding with visor up when on trails. Wondering if you have this problem/solution; thank you!
Great question, I don't have a great solution. I wear prescription sunglasses and not goggles. I often stop when it gets dusty and wait for vehicles to pass or haul ass past.
Thanks for your video, Matt, very informative. I just finished installing the 1 1/8 bars and EE hand guards, as well as the oxford heated grips. Everything went well, but the EE guards hit my instrument display at full lock. Did you have this problem? Not sure how important this is, but maneuvering the bike in tight places is a little more difficult.
I didn't have any problem with the had guards hitting the instrument panel. My hand guards just barely touch the windscreen at fully locked left and right. I do have bar risers, not sure if you do. You might try rolling the bars back toward you a little bit, if you haven't tried that yet. The only other thing I can think of is the orientation of the bar mounts since they have an offset. Maybe flip them around and see what that does. Hope this helps.
@@advmatt Matt, I installed bar risers and that fixed the problem! I had bar risers on the original bar but neglected to get them for the new bar upgrade. Thanks for your help, really appreciate what you do!
Enjoy your content, Matt - as a new owner of the 390 Adventure. Hey, would you happen to know how many heated gear components (read Gerbing) that the stator can handle?
Thanks for the feedback. The manual says the stator is rated at 230 watts. From the manual, the accessory electrical port under he headlight has a 15 amp rating. This says to me there is at least an additional 15 amps of capacity. My heated grips and heated jacket at the max fused amperage is at 12 amps. I am confident I am operating within the capabilities of the stator. I also do not have auxiliary lights. These would need to be factored in as well. Hope this helps. Enjoy that bike. These are so much fun to ride.
Oxford sells grips that are different lengths. The touring, sport and dual sport models are not the same length There's no need to buy long and trim. As far as fitting them, connect the electric part first. Let the grip get hot and they are easy to slide on and off to test for the proper position.
I thought I looked and the grip pattern is different between styles. I like the Adventure style better. Great tip to let them heat up to slide them on. Thanks.
It was an idiotic nightmare trying to put them on my Pan America. They won't fit over a 7/8 inch bar without filing and picking out the gumball glue they stupidly put inside. After several hours of filing and picking out that gum I got it over the left bar. Ordered a replacement throttle tube yesterday, destroyed first one trying to grind it down. I'll have to file down more of the grip like the left side. Never had a heated grip so ridiculous to install. And,they are 15 thousands smaller than 7/8s. Even says so in the directions like previous post says. Measured with a caliper also. But,never fear, no more base models of the Pan America are being made. From 2024 on only the S models will be available. Won't have to deal with this crap.
I have heard of this problem from others as well. What a pain. I have done the Oxfors install a few tunes now and it takes some work to get them to fit for sure.
My pan America has 7/8 bars, measured with a caliper, left grip won't even begin to slide on. Using a file to take off all the excess rubber inside the grip like the directions say. Idiotic. Never had another set of heated grips that required this. If you read the directions, they are actually made to fit a bar 15 thousands smaller.
I had quite a bit of work to get it fit on another bike as well. It took awhile to get the rubber removed that ran into the grip when molded. For the price and for the heat, its a pain but was worth it to me. They are a pain though.
@@advmatt I thought the lighting was fine, there is always one to complain about something. Great video and thanks. I’m having to re-do my grips. Installed them and went out on the MABDR and the controller shorted causing the fuse to blow. If you think installing is a challenge try taking them off, lol!
Protip!!! Use hairspray as lubricant for getting the grips on! Water works, as does windex, and we all know not to use an actual lubricant because that'll make for a slippery grip, but hairspray combines the benefits of using water, with a little extra "stick" when it dries. I've built and rebuilt countless bikes in the last decade, and I would seriously caution anyone against using solid adhesives like contact/rubber cement and superglue. We're modders, we like mucking around, and I guarantee at least 50% of people that install new grips will eventually have a reason to replace the handlebars, at which point you'll be glad that you can remove the grips without destroying them.
Fantastic tip. Bar replacement is common place on heavy adventure bikes.
Hairspray won't work on Oxford heated grips as the inside of the grips are a plastic tube as opposed to a normal grip which is rubber on the inside. The hairspray will not stick between the plastic and bar or throttle tube.
Wow that's really cool and very helpful tips my friend. Keep it up and more vidz to come.
My clutch grip solution: I sprayed the HECK out of the bar and inside of the grip with windex. I slid the grip on 85% of the way without an issue. I then tapped it the rest of with a rubber mallet. - Frank
I forgot about the windex trick. I had to glue mine, twice. It was spinning after the first install. We all learn little tips and tricks. Thanks for adding that one.
@flippy5118 You certainly can. I was gentle as I could be. Working very well! - Frank
During my install...I used a little water at first to determine the best grip location. The water made it easy to slide the grips on and off. Final grip placement was with superglue 👍
Great idea/tip!
Rather than fix the grips in place with the superglue provided (one chance only, crap or bust), on the 3 sets I've fitted, I used a contact adhesive (Evostik or similar). Slide the grip on when the glue is still liquid and you can adjust the position at leaisure for a long time. You do need to give the glue 24 hours to go off completely though. Regards the DC ammeter, you already have one for up to 10 amps.! Use the common and left hand sockets of your existing meter.
Great tip on the glue. Absolutely right, I could have used the meter in series with the circuit to measure the current. I should have tried it, I was thinking it would pop the 10 Amp fuse, but even if it did its closer to knowing than not. Thanks for the reminder.
@@advmatt So test grips and jacket separately. Note down high-med-low levels.
I used a drill bit to space out the throttle side so to make sure that there was space for the atlas throttle lock. Can't remember if it was 1/8 or 3/16. I was able to rotate the cord to face back towards the rider to be able to fully apply the brake no matter where the throttle was but had to fully rotate the atlas to where it is right on top of the heated grip cord. Tight but makes for a clean install.
Great tip, thanks. Never crossed my mind to do that. I just lined up the end of the grip from where I trimmed it. Cheers.
I did it the easy way - I let my dealer do it when I bought my 390 !! I doubt very much if you can run the grips on high very long as they get too hot even in near freezing conditions !!
The grips do get quite hot. I was surprised by this. They are nice to have.
I run mine on high in New York when I am wearing my heavy winter gloves and I need that heat to transfer though the gloves! - Frank
Everyones miliage may vary for sure and the bottom line is if they dont move after install its good. I had to redo my clutch side after a couple mths when it started moving. No big deal.
I thought of the Alcohol /windex idea since I had installed many bicycle grips that way. But I figured Oxford knew best , which may or may not be the case. I had an anxious moment when the throttle side stuck 3/16 from where I wanted it. I managed to move it in position but was freaking out for a moment. There is definitely room for error and you need to think the process through for your own install.
Agree, think through the install beforing doing. It will save you problems.
Nice install. The repair manual shows a total output of 230W, but the charging system components will run very hot pulling high amperage at idle. So probably better to go inside rather than use the drive through to get your daily burrito. 😉
TLDR at the bottom.
I utilized my dremel for the throttle body.
If you are using a cutting wheel, I can see a potential problem, a sanding wheel should be fine.
If you have any experience with a dremel, I feel, having used one to sand down a minimum of three throttle bodies, there is no danger of going too far.
Especially in the 390, as your just removing the strips of raised plastic, not the entire throttle body.
TLDR: Matt is not wrong, you could screw up your throttle body if you have no dremel experience. If you do, you will be fine. - Frank
Nice job Matt.
rubbing alcohol also makes a great lubricant for putting rubber hoses on metal or plastic
@@seanhewitt2521 great tip. Thanks, I will try that next time.
Best trick I've learned about mounting grips is use rubbing alcohol in the grip it will slide right on and then drys tacky to the bar
Great tip. Thanks. Next time I will give that a try.
Thank you for great instructional video. I wonder what voltage were you getting with all the accessories on (including lights, phone/navigation) also. Would the stater be able to run all previously mentioned and charge the battery (i.e. after cold night battery discharged). Thank you
When I measured the voltage the only item from your list not operating was a navigation system. The current draw on these systems is usually less than Amp, closer to half an Amp so it won't really make a huge difference. At idle the voltage drop is the most, once the engine winds up it is not as much and more current is generated. I am keeping a close eye on the voltage and health of the stator. Hope that helps.
Have you seen the Koso Apollo Heated Grips. Oxford is quality stuff, I've heard, but the Apollo has a neat little indicator light and no big control panel.
thx
S
I was looking at those because the heater control is on the left grip perfectly places for thumb control. I decided the $30 price difference wasn't worth it. Cheers.
Cheap!
;)
S
@@sdefiel3719 Frugal! Though I went with Oxford because they were $50 lower on Amazon the day I ordered! The giant control panel is annoying... - Frank
Not related to subject in this video. When riding do you use goggles, glasses or just helmet's visor. Riding lately local trails, there were quite few 4x4. When I got behind the dust was pretty bad, at which point I had to close my visor, but the air flow was now minimized; which prompts my question. I'm using Arai XD4 which has great ventilation, but I still prefer riding with visor up when on trails. Wondering if you have this problem/solution; thank you!
Great question, I don't have a great solution. I wear prescription sunglasses and not goggles. I often stop when it gets dusty and wait for vehicles to pass or haul ass past.
Thanks for your video, Matt, very informative. I just finished installing the 1 1/8 bars and EE hand guards, as well as the oxford heated grips. Everything went well, but the EE guards hit my instrument display at full lock. Did you have this problem? Not sure how important this is, but maneuvering the bike in tight places is a little more difficult.
I didn't have any problem with the had guards hitting the instrument panel. My hand guards just barely touch the windscreen at fully locked left and right. I do have bar risers, not sure if you do. You might try rolling the bars back toward you a little bit, if you haven't tried that yet. The only other thing I can think of is the orientation of the bar mounts since they have an offset. Maybe flip them around and see what that does. Hope this helps.
@@advmatt
Matt, I installed bar risers and that fixed the problem! I had bar risers on the original bar but neglected to get them for the new bar upgrade. Thanks for your help, really appreciate what you do!
Enjoy your content, Matt - as a new owner of the 390 Adventure. Hey, would you happen to know how many heated gear components (read Gerbing) that the stator can handle?
Thanks for the feedback. The manual says the stator is rated at 230 watts. From the manual, the accessory electrical port under he headlight has a 15 amp rating. This says to me there is at least an additional 15 amps of capacity. My heated grips and heated jacket at the max fused amperage is at 12 amps. I am confident I am operating within the capabilities of the stator. I also do not have auxiliary lights. These would need to be factored in as well. Hope this helps. Enjoy that bike. These are so much fun to ride.
@@advmatt Thank you!
Thanks!
No problem!
Oxford sells grips that are different lengths. The touring, sport and dual sport models are not the same length There's no need to buy long and trim.
As far as fitting them, connect the electric part first. Let the grip get hot and they are easy to slide on and off to test for the proper position.
I thought I looked and the grip pattern is different between styles. I like the Adventure style better. Great tip to let them heat up to slide them on. Thanks.
It was an idiotic nightmare trying to put them on my Pan America. They won't fit over a 7/8 inch bar without filing and picking out the gumball glue they stupidly put inside. After several hours of filing and picking out that gum I got it over the left bar. Ordered a replacement throttle tube yesterday, destroyed first one trying to grind it down. I'll have to file down more of the grip like the left side. Never had a heated grip so ridiculous to install. And,they are 15 thousands smaller than 7/8s. Even says so in the directions like previous post says. Measured with a caliper also. But,never fear, no more base models of the Pan America are being made. From 2024 on only the S models will be available. Won't have to deal with this crap.
I have heard of this problem from others as well. What a pain. I have done the Oxfors install a few tunes now and it takes some work to get them to fit for sure.
My pan America has 7/8 bars, measured with a caliper, left grip won't even begin to slide on. Using a file to take off all the excess rubber inside the grip like the directions say. Idiotic. Never had another set of heated grips that required this. If you read the directions, they are actually made to fit a bar 15 thousands smaller.
I had quite a bit of work to get it fit on another bike as well. It took awhile to get the rubber removed that ran into the grip when molded. For the price and for the heat, its a pain but was worth it to me. They are a pain though.
electrical stuff is all mumbo jumbo to me. I do know if you connect your battery backwards, you might fry your ECU. so, yeah...don't do that.
It's all voodoo magic. Cheers.
Gave up watching…really poor lighting, sorry.
Yeah, I have a challenging garage to work in right now. It is temporary. I am working on a new filming area.
@@advmatt I thought the lighting was fine, there is always one to complain about something. Great video and thanks. I’m having to re-do my grips. Installed them and went out on the MABDR and the controller shorted causing the fuse to blow. If you think installing is a challenge try taking them off, lol!