@@SlackTastic I've not noticed much overlap in subject. They're different channels for different things. RevZilla gets the job done, FortNine is a cinematic experience. I could have someone explain the plot of a movie to me in 5 minutes and that might be enough sometimes, but it's not really the same thing.
@@John_Ridley Keep the cinematic experience in the cinema and out of the classroom. I believe substance is more important than style when relaying useful information or educating. It's a lot easier to retain 30 seconds of solid information and knowledge than 10 minutes of lens flare, color filters, dynamic shots, and sound effects with a little information sprinkled in wherever it fits the cinematic experience. Especially when you're actually trying to use this information in a real life situation. When you needed help in school and asked your teacher, did you want him going on a 10 minute rant with the answer to your question possibly in there somewhere maybe, or for him to answer your question directly so you could pass the exam? Or to use your analogy, what if you NEEDED the information from a movie quickly to make a real life decision? Would you rather sit down and watch the movie for 2 hours or have someone explain it to you in 5 minutes so you could solve your problem quickly and efficiently? That person explaining the movie to you may even add some useful perspective to the movie, adding to your education.
I agree, throttle free play is a big pet peeve, I like my throttle as tight and responsive as I can get it, it makes riding that much more enjoyable, a loose throttle with too much freeplay can actually get you hurt if not worse on the road
Super helpful! I was actually happy to see Ari working on a Honda since that's what I have too. Just got my bike back from the shop for other issues and noticed that my throttle had way too much free play when I was riding and I was nervous that I had to take it back to the shop. Found this video and it took me about 7 minutes to adjust thing and now everything feels great again. Thanks guys!
Just picked up the Benelli TRK 502 X and it’s the same amount of slack in your video. I will adjust it to the correct amount. Thanks ARI Done, what a difference it made.
I would also like to point out that when checking the full steering lock throttle cable freeplay, I always did it with the engine off at first and open the throttle fully and let go. If it snaps back it's not binding and or does not have too little freeplay. If it returns slowly it's binding and either the cable(s) are dry, rusted, routed incorrectly or more freeplay needs to be added. I would then start the engine, turn steering to full lock both ways to make sure the rpms do not go up and then blip the throttle to make sure the rpms come back down quickly as it should.You also should keep your cables lubed with cable lube which will help the cables operating smoothly and they will last longer. Also if you need to adjust the cables at the carburetor(s) or throttle bodie(s) you should leave a couple of threads showing at the upper adjuster(s) so if for some reason the freeplay ends up being too little later on, you can adjust it at the top rather than having to take the bike apart to get to the adjusters under the tank. Cable freeplay getting too tight later on is usually from not keeping the cable(s) lubed which causes rust, binding the cables(s). Especially on bikes that have mechanical carburetors and more importantly on flat slides than round slides, it is important to make sure that when the throttle is closed that when you try to turn the grip forward (closed) that you feel a cushion, not the throttle tube stop hitting the housing. This will guarantee the return (closing) cable is adjusted properly so that it pulls the slide(s) down in the carburetor(s) properly. Also make sure the slide(s) opens all the way before the throttle tube stop comes in contact with the housing. Flat slide carburetor(s) have more vacuum pull on the slide(s) because they are flat and there is more surface area than round slides. Even if the cable freeplay is correct, it doesn't mean the cables are adjusted correctly. It's always best to have anything adjusted etc., by a qualified technician if you aren't 100° sure your doing it correctly as literally your life is in your hands. Keep your bike well maintained and ride safe.
First thing i do when i get a new bike. Along with adjust brake and clutch levers to me. Happy holidays and a happy new year to you guys at RevZilla. Keep up the good work
Ari Henning - Putting motorcycle workshops charging an arm and a leg for simple fixes completely out of business. Thank you for your services good sir.
This was exactly what I needed to do . Throttle is exactly how I wanted it now, appreciate the step by step and default solution if the first didn’t work
This could not have come at a better time. Have noticed the exceeds slack lately! Thanks for demonstrating quick fix. I did not realize it was that simple!
Fantastic Ari. So clearly explained and the little graphic/audible cues are a huge help too. Ready to adjust my throttle cables on my bikes now 👍 thanks
Another great RevZilla/Ari video. I was actually looking for fixes for front brake vibration when I saw this video. I've always had what I thought was too much free play in the throttle. That gets fixed this week after watching this. Thank you.
ahh this recording style reminds me of chrisfix, been watching a lot of these videos. even though i already knew how, but the quality of the videos are great. also ari is amazing at explaining things.
Great camera work and use of graphic impositions to highlight areas of focus. Ari is top-shelf with Zach a distant second. The others are left wanting. This clip is Designer approved ✅
Great video, thank you. I'm a new rider and this is one thing I did notice about riding my new ZX6R. There was too much slack in the throttle cable which made my takeoffs feel real sloppy. It's hard to learn when you can't feel it as you let out the clutch. This video really helped me. Thanks again! Ride safe!
These ''shop manual'' video are amazing ! Loved MC Garage but those are even better since the format is even more focus on a single task. Stay sharp guys !
my motorcycle has about an inch of play on the throttle and in clogged mexican cobblestone streets it’s important to have intuitive throttle response. gonna look to do this soon as i can, thanks man 🙏🏻
Cable housing compresses. I'm a bike mechanic (pedal) and when we install new cables and housing for customers we pre-stress the housing so we can zero the barrel adjusters.
If you happen to own a Harley, most later model DBC bikes have an adjustment for both the push and pull cable. Also, Ari overlooked one possible issue. If you take out too much slack, it can raise the base RPM at all times, not just when turning the bars. I also like very minimal slack. For this reason I adjust the pull cable with the bike running at operating temp. If you adjust too far you’ll hear the idle rise. If you tend to have issues with whiskey throttle you might want to avoid taking out all free play.
happy new year brothers and sisters thanks for this bit ari, but i gotta be honest, i liked the the mc garage format more than the motovlog style (also we get to miss out on that muscly neck of yours) this is one of the easiest jobs and it impact so many things: taking off blipping the throttle slipping the clutch (u turn, slow maneuvre)
Sloppy throttles with excessive play are common in most manufacturers' demo fleets, and it doesn't make a good impression. Demo teams, spend a few minutes each day and dial 'em in!
GREAT video! I actually just bought a 2020 CBR300R and the stock adjustment is way too loose for my taste. It was helpful to see both ends of the throttle cables out of the bike. Thank you so much!
Ari could do a video on "How to check your tire pressure" and I'd watch it. I just really like his short and to the point maintenance videos and enjoy watching even if it's something I've done a 1000+ times.
You guy’s are the best. Your content is useful and helpful for the real world use and as well understandable explained. Therefore you can connect even more with your bike, by working on it and understanding it better. All the best for you and thanks a lot Markus Ps: are you planing by any chances a „how to ride a motorcycle (better)“ season?
Throttle and Clutch freeplay is something I always check after washing the bike, along with brake pads, brake lights, headlights, turn signals, and engine idle
Its actually simple if you have the right tools. Nothing mystifying about it. But it is basically impossible if you don't have the gauges or the right screw driver that can get into those tight spaces. Your service manual should have guidelines on when to do it. And should you? If you have the tools, manual, and are comfortable working on your bike, then yeah, you should. Save yourself some serious $$. If not... then you should just take it in. Hope that helps.
Syncing - short for syncronizing - the carbs (or throttle bodies on EFI bikes) is the process of checking and adjusting the carburetors to ensure they’re passing the same volume of air and fuel, as determined by intake vacuum measured at a hose or nipple on each carburetor flange. Over time the linkage that connects the carburetors will wear, causing variances in intake vacuum. Out-of-sync fueling will result in a rough or erratic idle, excessive engine vibration, and other issues, so it’s important to periodically adjust the linkage to ensure all the carbs are opening and closing in lockstep.
The cb300r I just got last week has the same 10mms of freeplay you showed here. Mentioned it to the dealer when I bought it "nah thats fine, its actually better that way" def gonna get this done before my next ride.
Super beginner here... Thx bro! I was hating all that fckn slack. Fixing minor things like things makes me want to learn more and keep riding. I knew something wasn't feeling right with all that dead zone.
Really awesome format I think you’re really onto something here, everything explained and detailed so clearly and easy to follow due to the POV, appreciate it Ari & team! I’ll definitely be checking mine after Christmas
thank you for this video, the throttle on my kawasaki voyager was actually worse than this. Made slow maneuvers on that 900lb bike very difficult. Ive laid her over atleast twice because I couldn't get sufficient power to the wheel in time during the u turn. so this helped alot!
Great demo for someone looking to adjust their throttle play. I watched it, just because I like your videos. You MIGHT want to mention (possibly for legal reasons, and I ain't no lawyer) that when running on the motorcycle in your closed garage to open a door to the outside first. Yes, yes, you did it only for a few seconds, and I would have done the exact same thing, but there is always that off chance someone might let it idol for a bit too long or have to go back and adjust and restart the bike several times creating a build up of Carbon Monoxide. There is a reason why a ladder has so many stupid warning labels on them.
Also, telling people to reference their owners/shop manual for specific instructions, tolerances and torque specs might also be a good idea. Reducing free play below stated spec causes premature stretching/breaking of the cable and increases chances of whiskey throttling. We live in a society that no longer takes self accountability seriously and that loves lawyers.
@@zyonsdream Yupp. No one wants to be accountable for their actions. FFS Never heard the expression "whiskey throttling" before. Had to Google that one. And yes I have done that to myself, because I was inexperienced 40+ years ago. LOL
Good content as always, Ari. Had my lever positions and throttle slack adjusted after seeing your video from MC Garage. Thanks for the tips and keep em coming. ✊🏼
Watch this video today. And yes I did that adjustment and the follow up test. I have a 2020 Icebear mojo magic trike 150cc gy6 clone. I've been having stalling issue's, so far checked vacuum and fuel lines. Did find the line attached to manifold was bent badly. The also did check that Virberello Scooter Tips that check was about sparkplug wire. When I did found that the coil end wasn't screwed down also check the tightness of wires one actually heard and felt a click. After that zip tied coil end down to the frame. I'm new to motorcycling and not a mechanic. Do you offer video on how to hook up top box and tail light wiring.
Have a brand new Kawasaki Z400, first bike, and the amount of play is insane. Even for it being my first bike ever it is super annoying how much I have to twist the throttle to get it to engage. Will be trying out the method in the video when I get a chance.
Great content :) Just one thing to add: Ride-by-wire is getting more and more common an new motorcycles and nowadays a lot of those systems do not have throttle cables anymore. So if you have a new - I dunno - Triumph for example - don't bother.
I prefer to have approximately the same throttle play that you showed at first. I tried adjusting it and felt uncomfortable, maybe for some sports bike or aggressive riding it could be beneficial, but for me that extra play helps my hand to relax and feel precisely the moment the throttle starts or stops being pulled. Like the initial slack in a trigger.
2:23 i know it's traditionally called push/pull in motorcycle lingo, but it's literally pull/pull. at no time is anything being pushed. when you move the grip in one direction, you're causing the top cable to pull the throttle open. when you move the grip in the opposite direction, you're causing the lower cable to pull the throttle closed, and thereby drag the top cable back to its original position. (we all know that in reality the spring is causing the throttle to close, but you know what i'm saying... if the spring were to fail, that's how it would work.)
Good little video - One very important point though is to get your motor up to running temperature before checking the cable tension on full lock. I have found it makes a significant difference. You can set the throttle, check the slack on lock and find it is fine - then later when the engine is at running temperature, have issues with significantly increased idle speeds when turning on full lock. I have noticed this on multiple motorcycles. Cheers, Campbell:)
Now the UA-cam algorithm reads minds... I was just thinking today on the way home that my throttle had too much slack and needed adjusting. I did not do any web search on the subject, it was strictly a thought in my head.
On the last part, if moving the handlebars one way or the other makes the revs rise, it may be that your throttle cable or even your choke/idle adjust cable isn't routed properly. It needs to go from the control position on the handlebar and gently curve to be as close as possible to the fork pivot axis so that turning the handlebar has minimal impact on the cable route.
THX, Plz Ari, can you do a adjustment for the rear brake. I just recently purchase a bike 2 days ago, but i have to dig the foot a lot to get the brake working, is definitely not like my old, and other bikes a have used, that the brake is stiff i just move the foot like 1.5 inches for the maximum brake. this new one feels loose, and i have to move a lot the wrist of the foot and is like 4 inches travel or more. PS: this bike is new and have ABS, my other bike is from 2006, and all the others i have used are older than 2005.
Very much sounds like the rear brake needs to be bled. That much travel is unusual, so I'm guessing there's air in the lines that's compressing and allowing excess lever travel.
@@AriH211 Thx Ari, i just order almost all the tools from the shop manual episode. waiting for Brake Bleeder to arrive and proceeded to try that. Edit: Omg, i'm so stupid i just saw you already make "How To Flush and Bleed Your Motorcycle Brakes", no only that the video is thumbs up and saved in my Bike Maintenance playlist. sorry
I mean, a lot of things are. We'd all be riding PCX 125s if that were the case. I've ridden plenty with slack as well. Do I like it? Nope. It all boils down to preference, why you're doing what you're doing, how you generally approach things, external factors etc. Hell, I've ridden with no seat and the battery poking my ass. Preference? Maybe : >
I find that while riding with the throttle very little play (adjusted with very little play) when going over humps on the road or holes it makes you rev the bike your body gets moved and makes you pull the throttle back lol, specially in the roads of London it’s like off-roading out here.
Not really. It's pretty much your fault. This only happens to me if I'm tense on the bars, or am generally not paying attention, however rough the road is. So long as you stay relaxed and don't death grip the bars, your hand will be able to pivot quite a bit without affecting the throttle.
@@ThaSideWeed I think that what needs to be relaxed enough to allow for smooth control and absorb bumps and vibrations are the arms. Hands should have a firm grip, not so much that they end up hurting, but no so loose that any sudden force could separate you from them. After all, they are your direct connection with the bike.
Read Ari's throttle tuneup tips on Common Tread: rvz.la/2WJ50g8
I genuinely shop at Revzilla first now for all my MC needs because you guys have Zak and Ari.
Getting Ari and Zach on board is the best thing Revzilla could have done !! Amazing content !
I miss them on motorcyclist magazine youtube channel, it hasn't been the same since they left....
Just bring Adam too
this and fortnine are the best bike channels by far. got my sub
Fortnine is great if you want to spend 10 minutes watching something Ari could explain MUCH better in less than 30 seconds.
@@SlackTastic yeah, i like the cinematic experience fortnine delivers ;)
@@SlackTastic It is possible to like apples AND oranges, you know...
@@SlackTastic I've not noticed much overlap in subject. They're different channels for different things. RevZilla gets the job done, FortNine is a cinematic experience. I could have someone explain the plot of a movie to me in 5 minutes and that might be enough sometimes, but it's not really the same thing.
@@John_Ridley
Keep the cinematic experience in the cinema and out of the classroom. I believe substance is more important than style when relaying useful information or educating. It's a lot easier to retain 30 seconds of solid information and knowledge than 10 minutes of lens flare, color filters, dynamic shots, and sound effects with a little information sprinkled in wherever it fits the cinematic experience. Especially when you're actually trying to use this information in a real life situation.
When you needed help in school and asked your teacher, did you want him going on a 10 minute rant with the answer to your question possibly in there somewhere maybe, or for him to answer your question directly so you could pass the exam?
Or to use your analogy, what if you NEEDED the information from a movie quickly to make a real life decision? Would you rather sit down and watch the movie for 2 hours or have someone explain it to you in 5 minutes so you could solve your problem quickly and efficiently? That person explaining the movie to you may even add some useful perspective to the movie, adding to your education.
I agree, throttle free play is a big pet peeve, I like my throttle as tight and responsive as I can get it, it makes riding that much more enjoyable, a loose throttle with too much freeplay can actually get you hurt if not worse on the road
Super helpful! I was actually happy to see Ari working on a Honda since that's what I have too. Just got my bike back from the shop for other issues and noticed that my throttle had way too much free play when I was riding and I was nervous that I had to take it back to the shop. Found this video and it took me about 7 minutes to adjust thing and now everything feels great again. Thanks guys!
Awesome, glad to hear it.
Just picked up the Benelli TRK 502 X and it’s the same amount of slack in your video. I will adjust it to the correct amount.
Thanks ARI
Done, what a difference it made.
I installed a 20% reduced through throttle when I did new grips. I've had slop ever since so I will be doing this today!
I just got a bike and I'm learning a lot from this channel. I went and adjusted my very loose throttle (more than 10mm) lol Thank you Ari!
Pretty cool with how you're highlighting the parts you're speaking of!
Thank you so much for this Ari, I just did this to my 3 yr old R3 and wow what a difference this made! No more laggy gear shifts!
I would also like to point out that when checking the full steering lock throttle cable freeplay, I always did it with the engine off at first and open the throttle fully and let go. If it snaps back it's not binding and or does not have too little freeplay. If it returns slowly it's binding and either the cable(s) are dry, rusted, routed incorrectly or more freeplay needs to be added. I would then start the engine, turn steering to full lock both ways to make sure the rpms do not go up and then blip the throttle to make sure the rpms come back down quickly as it should.You also should keep your cables lubed with cable lube which will help the cables operating smoothly and they will last longer. Also if you need to adjust the cables at the carburetor(s) or throttle bodie(s) you should leave a couple of threads showing at the upper adjuster(s) so if for some reason the freeplay ends up being too little later on, you can adjust it at the top rather than having to take the bike apart to get to the adjusters under the tank. Cable freeplay getting too tight later on is usually from not keeping the cable(s) lubed which causes rust, binding the cables(s). Especially on bikes that have mechanical carburetors and more importantly on flat slides than round slides, it is important to make sure that when the throttle is closed that when you try to turn the grip forward (closed) that you feel a cushion, not the throttle tube stop hitting the housing. This will guarantee the return (closing) cable is adjusted properly so that it pulls the slide(s) down in the carburetor(s) properly. Also make sure the slide(s) opens all the way before the throttle tube stop comes in contact with the housing. Flat slide carburetor(s) have more vacuum pull on the slide(s) because they are flat and there is more surface area than round slides. Even if the cable freeplay is correct, it doesn't mean the cables are adjusted correctly. It's always best to have anything adjusted etc., by a qualified technician if you aren't 100° sure your doing it correctly as literally your life is in your hands. Keep your bike well maintained and ride safe.
First thing i do when i get a new bike. Along with adjust brake and clutch levers to me. Happy holidays and a happy new year to you guys at RevZilla. Keep up the good work
Thanks for another great video. And taking off the body work reminds me why I ride naked bikes.
And riding on the freeway with wind not pushing me constantly at 160km/h reminds me why i ride non-naked bikes :)
Nearly failed an MOT because of this issue, fixed it in 5 minutes thanks to your video, cheers!
Ari Henning - Putting motorcycle workshops charging an arm and a leg for simple fixes completely out of business. Thank you for your services good sir.
This was exactly what I needed to do . Throttle is exactly how I wanted it now, appreciate the step by step and default solution if the first didn’t work
This could not have come at a better time. Have noticed the exceeds slack lately! Thanks for demonstrating quick fix. I did not realize it was that simple!
Yup, super easy, and it makes a huge difference in how your bike feels.
Fantastic Ari. So clearly explained and the little graphic/audible cues are a huge help too. Ready to adjust my throttle cables on my bikes now 👍 thanks
Awesome all way's clear and short to the point information.
Merry Christmas to you from India..🎄🎄
Another excellent video.
What I like about your videos is you keep them simple and short.
Top job mate
Would love to see some tutorials from Ari on setting up ergonomics - especially for track bikes!
Another great RevZilla/Ari video. I was actually looking for fixes for front brake vibration when I saw this video. I've always had what I thought was too much free play in the throttle. That gets fixed this week after watching this. Thank you.
I know how to do that. I've known how to do that for years now. I just enjoy watching Ari Henning do stuff
Great tutorial for a common problem. Continually adjusting this on the training bikes we use, plus it’s a teaching moment for the students..👍
ahh this recording style reminds me of chrisfix, been watching a lot of these videos. even though i already knew how, but the quality of the videos are great. also ari is amazing at explaining things.
When U turns become nooners.
Lol
Very helpful. Been trying to install a new throttle but the cables were too tight. Now I understand how to loosen them first!
Ari thank you so much, you've taught me so much about Motorcycles!
I absolutely love the new highlight feature! Couldn’t have come out at a better time
Go over how to adjust brake and clutch lever pull and the appropriate ways to adjust the distance from the bars please.
Sir Ari you are awesome...learning so many things I never knew i needed to do with my bike.
Great camera work and use of graphic impositions to highlight areas of focus. Ari is top-shelf with Zach a distant second. The others are left wanting.
This clip is Designer approved ✅
Spenser gets all the credit for the highlights. He takes these vids to the next level.
Great video, thank you. I'm a new rider and this is one thing I did notice about riding my new ZX6R. There was too much slack in the throttle cable which made my takeoffs feel real sloppy. It's hard to learn when you can't feel it as you let out the clutch. This video really helped me. Thanks again! Ride safe!
These ''shop manual'' video are amazing ! Loved MC Garage but those are even better since the format is even more focus on a single task. Stay sharp guys !
Right on, glad you like them and find them helpful. That's the goal!
Thank you for the instructions! You have saved me from so much frustration 😂
my motorcycle has about an inch of play on the throttle and in clogged mexican cobblestone streets it’s important to have intuitive throttle response. gonna look to do this soon as i can, thanks man 🙏🏻
Cable housing compresses. I'm a bike mechanic (pedal) and when we install new cables and housing for customers we pre-stress the housing so we can zero the barrel adjusters.
i would like to thank you for taking the time to do this video down to the throttle below the thank
Thanks mate, the exact video i was looking for. Got the same bike, made the adjustment. Feels so much better.
If you happen to own a Harley, most later model DBC bikes have an adjustment for both the push and pull cable. Also, Ari overlooked one possible issue. If you take out too much slack, it can raise the base RPM at all times, not just when turning the bars. I also like very minimal slack. For this reason I adjust the pull cable with the bike running at operating temp. If you adjust too far you’ll hear the idle rise. If you tend to have issues with whiskey throttle you might want to avoid taking out all free play.
Adjusted my sportster’s throttle after watching this video and ran into this exact issue, you’re an actual lifesaver and I salute you
happy new year brothers and sisters
thanks for this bit ari, but i gotta be honest, i liked the the mc garage format more than the motovlog style (also we get to miss out on that muscly neck of yours)
this is one of the easiest jobs and it impact so many things:
taking off
blipping the throttle
slipping the clutch (u turn, slow maneuvre)
Great video. That is a gorgeous looking motorcycle.
Sloppy throttles with excessive play are common in most manufacturers' demo fleets, and it doesn't make a good impression. Demo teams, spend a few minutes each day and dial 'em in!
GREAT video! I actually just bought a 2020 CBR300R and the stock adjustment is way too loose for my taste. It was helpful to see both ends of the throttle cables out of the bike. Thank you so much!
Ari could do a video on "How to check your tire pressure" and I'd watch it. I just really like his short and to the point maintenance videos and enjoy watching even if it's something I've done a 1000+ times.
Ha, well tire pressure is a topic I've got on the list so you might get the chance. Tire pressure is pretty important and often ignored!
You guy’s are the best. Your content is useful and helpful for the real world use and as well understandable explained. Therefore you can connect even more with your bike, by working on it and understanding it better.
All the best for you and thanks a lot Markus
Ps: are you planing by any chances a „how to ride a motorcycle (better)“ season?
Sweet, my 2021 500r needs this done tonight!
Throttle and Clutch freeplay is something I always check after washing the bike, along with brake pads, brake lights, headlights, turn signals, and engine idle
Hey Ari, could you please demystify throttle body balancing? How to do it, when to do it and should you do it?
Its actually simple if you have the right tools. Nothing mystifying about it. But it is basically impossible if you don't have the gauges or the right screw driver that can get into those tight spaces. Your service manual should have guidelines on when to do it. And should you? If you have the tools, manual, and are comfortable working on your bike, then yeah, you should. Save yourself some serious $$. If not... then you should just take it in. Hope that helps.
Syncing - short for syncronizing - the carbs (or throttle bodies on EFI bikes) is the process of checking and adjusting the carburetors to ensure they’re passing the same volume of air and fuel, as determined by intake vacuum measured at a hose or nipple on each carburetor flange. Over time the linkage that connects the carburetors will wear, causing variances in intake vacuum. Out-of-sync fueling will result in a rough or erratic idle, excessive engine vibration, and other issues, so it’s important to periodically adjust the linkage to ensure all the carbs are opening and closing in lockstep.
Thanks a lot you guys! @ari, would you be doing a video on this at some point?
@@fjallmann +1 on the video.
Absolute quality how to videos.
I’ve been getting annoyed by all the free play with my throttle and now I be happy with little to none! Thank you 😂
I love these shop manuals. So useful and handy
What a sweet looking CBR!
That black/red is gorgeous!
The cb300r I just got last week has the same 10mms of freeplay you showed here. Mentioned it to the dealer when I bought it "nah thats fine, its actually better that way" def gonna get this done before my next ride.
Oh fuck. ok i hope i dont have to tear off the plastics for this. I mean its a naked bike but still. Damn. Maybe I shouodve made them fix it.
Super beginner here... Thx bro! I was hating all that fckn slack. Fixing minor things like things makes me want to learn more and keep riding. I knew something wasn't feeling right with all that dead zone.
Really awesome format I think you’re really onto something here, everything explained and detailed so clearly and easy to follow due to the POV, appreciate it Ari & team! I’ll definitely be checking mine after Christmas
Right on, glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the feedback.
Love these--thanks a mil!
thank you for this video, the throttle on my kawasaki voyager was actually worse than this. Made slow maneuvers on that 900lb bike very difficult. Ive laid her over atleast twice because I couldn't get sufficient power to the wheel in time during the u turn. so this helped alot!
Thank you!! My new CBR came with a massive amount of slack from the dealership.
Great video mate, well done also watched the clutch one found it very useful 👍 👏. Thank you.
Great demo for someone looking to adjust their throttle play. I watched it, just because I like your videos.
You MIGHT want to mention (possibly for legal reasons, and I ain't no lawyer) that when running on the motorcycle in your closed garage to open a door to the outside first. Yes, yes, you did it only for a few seconds, and I would have done the exact same thing, but there is always that off chance someone might let it idol for a bit too long or have to go back and adjust and restart the bike several times creating a build up of Carbon Monoxide.
There is a reason why a ladder has so many stupid warning labels on them.
Also, telling people to reference their owners/shop manual for specific instructions, tolerances and torque specs might also be a good idea. Reducing free play below stated spec causes premature stretching/breaking of the cable and increases chances of whiskey throttling. We live in a society that no longer takes self accountability seriously and that loves lawyers.
@@zyonsdream Yupp. No one wants to be accountable for their actions. FFS
Never heard the expression "whiskey throttling" before. Had to Google that one.
And yes I have done that to myself, because I was inexperienced 40+ years ago. LOL
Great video. Doing this first thing in the morning.
Good content as always, Ari. Had my lever positions and throttle slack adjusted after seeing your video from MC Garage. Thanks for the tips and keep em coming. ✊🏼
Good stuff, this is absolutely essential, just test rode a bike and the throttle lag was really off putting.
My bike feels so much better now, thanks
Nice!
holy shit, pardon my language but this video just saved my ass a LOT of confusion and sleep. THANK YOU
Watch this video today. And yes I did that adjustment and the follow up test. I have a 2020 Icebear mojo magic trike 150cc gy6 clone. I've been having stalling issue's, so far checked vacuum and fuel lines. Did find the line attached to manifold was bent badly. The also did check that Virberello Scooter Tips that check was about sparkplug wire. When I did found that the coil end wasn't screwed down also check the tightness of wires one actually heard and felt a click. After that zip tied coil end down to the frame. I'm new to motorcycling and not a mechanic. Do you offer video on how to hook up top box and tail light wiring.
Love your presentation man
Thanks Cap'n!
Have a brand new Kawasaki Z400, first bike, and the amount of play is insane. Even for it being my first bike ever it is super annoying how much I have to twist the throttle to get it to engage. Will be trying out the method in the video when I get a chance.
Great content :) Just one thing to add: Ride-by-wire is getting more and more common an new motorcycles and nowadays a lot of those systems
do not have throttle cables anymore. So if you have a new - I dunno - Triumph for example - don't bother.
You don't need to anyway, because ride-by-wire already feels like a sloppy throttle cable. - LOL.
Explained very nicely. Thanks.
Your videos have been so helpful thankyou!!
Dude thank you! I just got my first motorcycle recently and the freeplay was wayyy too much, I hated how delayed it was when shifting and such!
Really appreciate this series....thank you!
great! no bs, straight to the point. thank you.
Excellent, thanks sir and Happy Holidays!
Going adjust mine right now.
Nice to see you... Love to watching you...
ty Ari! this helped me a ton! well done
I prefer to have approximately the same throttle play that you showed at first. I tried adjusting it and felt uncomfortable, maybe for some sports bike or aggressive riding it could be beneficial, but for me that extra play helps my hand to relax and feel precisely the moment the throttle starts or stops being pulled. Like the initial slack in a trigger.
I used to think the same, but once you become accustomed to almost zero free play it’s hard to go back.
i hate the big slack too. Good vid.
Thanks as always Ari!
Ari needs his own show.
Really helpful. Thank you very much sir!
Ari please make a video on tuning your clutch grip zone
2:23 i know it's traditionally called push/pull in motorcycle lingo, but it's literally pull/pull. at no time is anything being pushed. when you move the grip in one direction, you're causing the top cable to pull the throttle open. when you move the grip in the opposite direction, you're causing the lower cable to pull the throttle closed, and thereby drag the top cable back to its original position. (we all know that in reality the spring is causing the throttle to close, but you know what i'm saying... if the spring were to fail, that's how it would work.)
Someday, if this series ever ends, you better end it by closing out the shop manual at the end like we finished the book.
Always good vid with you !
Good little video - One very important point though is to get your motor up to running temperature before checking the cable tension on full lock. I have found it makes a significant difference. You can set the throttle, check the slack on lock and find it is fine - then later when the engine is at running temperature, have issues with significantly increased idle speeds when turning on full lock. I have noticed this on multiple motorcycles. Cheers, Campbell:)
Interesting. I can't possibly see how a warmed-up engine would make a difference though.
@@AriH211 It does. Not sure why. I have always done this because it causes problems when you don't.
Ahh yes. Wish I knew this and clutch adjustment in the first month of getting my bike
Now the UA-cam algorithm reads minds... I was just thinking today on the way home that my throttle had too much slack and needed adjusting. I did not do any web search on the subject, it was strictly a thought in my head.
On the last part, if moving the handlebars one way or the other makes the revs rise, it may be that your throttle cable or even your choke/idle adjust cable isn't routed properly. It needs to go from the control position on the handlebar and gently curve to be as close as possible to the fork pivot axis so that turning the handlebar has minimal impact on the cable route.
Love the vids Ari.
Merry Christmas 🎄 guys :)
THX, Plz Ari, can you do a adjustment for the rear brake.
I just recently purchase a bike 2 days ago, but i have to dig the foot a lot to get the brake working, is definitely not like my old, and other bikes a have used, that the brake is stiff i just move the foot like 1.5 inches for the maximum brake. this new one feels loose, and i have to move a lot the wrist of the foot and is like 4 inches travel or more.
PS: this bike is new and have ABS, my other bike is from 2006, and all the others i have used are older than 2005.
Very much sounds like the rear brake needs to be bled. That much travel is unusual, so I'm guessing there's air in the lines that's compressing and allowing excess lever travel.
@@AriH211 Thx Ari, i just order almost all the tools from the shop manual episode. waiting for Brake Bleeder to arrive and proceeded to try that. Edit: Omg, i'm so stupid i just saw you already make "How To Flush and Bleed Your Motorcycle Brakes", no only that the video is thumbs up and saved in my Bike Maintenance playlist. sorry
Slack is really just a pet peeve in my opinion. Have ridden for years with slack. Everything from twist to wheelies. To each their own I guess
I mean, a lot of things are. We'd all be riding PCX 125s if that were the case.
I've ridden plenty with slack as well. Do I like it? Nope.
It all boils down to preference, why you're doing what you're doing, how you generally approach things, external factors etc.
Hell, I've ridden with no seat and the battery poking my ass. Preference? Maybe : >
Great tip.....thanks for sharing..
Very helpful! Thanks!
Holy moly the difference this made! SUBSCRIBE
I find that while riding with the throttle very little play (adjusted with very little play) when going over humps on the road or holes it makes you rev the bike your body gets moved and makes you pull the throttle back lol, specially in the roads of London it’s like off-roading out here.
Not really. It's pretty much your fault. This only happens to me if I'm tense on the bars, or am generally not paying attention, however rough the road is.
So long as you stay relaxed and don't death grip the bars, your hand will be able to pivot quite a bit without affecting the throttle.
@@ThaSideWeed I think that what needs to be relaxed enough to allow for smooth control and absorb bumps and vibrations are the arms. Hands should have a firm grip, not so much that they end up hurting, but no so loose that any sudden force could separate you from them. After all, they are your direct connection with the bike.