IGNORE any comments from accounts requesting contact via Telegram or any other app. We're working on a way to smoke them out, but until then please report and ignore. Sorry that it's come to this! UA-cam doesn't seem to care... at all.
I've had a lot of experience with first generation Intel platforms. In my experience I've seen the same kind of symptom when the CMOS battery goes dead. I would honestly recommend trying to switch out the CMOS battery to see if you get any kind of post. It could also be that when the CMOS battery went dead it could have taken out the BIOS. Unfortunately these old boards don't have dual bioses or else it may have been possible to reflash.
Ahh, yes he didn't check the CMOS battery voltage, great point on an older board, I recently had to replace the battery on a 2015 laptop that I was upgrading!🤩🤩
thought the same about the battery recently got a new/old stock dell prebuilt did the same thing replaced the battery and was greeted by the windows 7 setup wizard
This sort of power cycling problem can be indicative of a bricked BIOS. The EVGA board from the video (P55 LE) looks to have a socketed BIOS chip, I would have looked for a cheap USB programmer to re-flash the chip. I have also seen many listings on eBay for replacement BIOS chips for the P55 LE which are sub 10 bucks, it would be worth a shot for a follow-up video.
@@t8z5h3 If it's eeprom or flash then they will die over time. Search for bitrotting or bit rot. Also Adamant IT has many videos where he reflash bios to old motherboard to fix them.
i would probably look at the battery on the motherboard to see if it has a decent charge or if it has to be replaced because these can sometimes do a lot of strange things like this when they have to be replaced. you should probably get replacement batteries for diagnosing such systems and these are pretty inexpensive and easy to get and as you always say : always try the easy stuff first .
@@adamtajhassam9188 the motherboard was not even posting so i doubt you could update it since it had no bios flashback function on that board. the bios chip may be simply dead
@@TheFlamerGamer3 yeah, and even if you don't have a new one on hand you can still pull it and see if the symptom changes. Then put back in and test. I've had an old AMD system that refused to post. I pulled the cmos battery and tested it with my tongue which passed so I put back in and it posted. My guess is that the little spring that contacts the positive pad got corroded even though it looked great. And just moving it fixed it. Now when I troubleshoot "worked when parked" issues, part of my pre inspection includes re seating the battery.
love these videos greg! they gave me confidence to build (and possibly troubleshoot) my very first rig a few months back and it’s been smooth ever since :) keep it up!
ya know Greg, with machines like this one you'd can make an entirely different video showing it's performance. It's pretty cool to look back on older, nicer rigs like this one -- that is if you can fix them. Just keep some gaming drives ready for these builds so u dont have to access user OS/personal stuff.
Ironic how we're all saying CHECK CMOS GREG! and yet on other videos people are all like "why take the time to check CMOS OMG"..... love it. Love the channel. Love PCs.
Wow. I had a Obsidian 800D and the same creative soundblaster. That volume knob was cool, it felt retro even at the time to change the volume on your PC using a knob.
Big cases are very easy to work in, especially for beginners or people with big hands. It also gives a great opportunity for good airflow not blocked by junk.
It also makes your computer look impressive. I set up a customer with an old Packard Bell gaming case. It was huge but the GPU space was taken up by drive bays. Fortunately he used a small GPU.
"I am really not looking forward to this one" such an honest moment, and you don't edit it out, you let it out spontaneously and we feel for you because for sure these kind of issues are nightmares to troubleshoot. And that's why without even watching the rest I pause and comment: I already know it's going to be another great episode! Thanks Greg!
This case was my first PC build in 2010. It was around $300. Corsair obsidian 800d I think. It was meant for water cooling and running multiple gpus which was the thing back then.
I have had surgery on my hand, and will be on sick leave for 12 weeks, and you are saving my days with all your troubleshooting and deep cleanings. Of course I subscribe, and keep up the good work! Greetings from Sweden :)
Hey Greg, I have yet to watch the video, but am commenting now because I know you often hang around comments for the first hour or so. Just want to say that this has turned into one of my favorite PC-related series on UA-cam. It was a great idea from the start and has been well executed. I've enjoyed watching you get more and more experienced with troubleshooting each system, and I'm wondering, do you have plans to try making a general troubleshooting process guide video? You could make a really great resource for the PC space. I'm envisioning something where a user posting for help in a forum could be told, "Go watch this video and follow every step, then report back." Just a thought. Keep up the fantastic work!
This PC takes me back... I had an I7-980 years ago and a ASUS GTX 570.. Asus X56 Sabertooth Mobo, 12GB of RAM! Built it myself in a cooler master HAF 922. Was a wicked system at the time had an SSD. Built specifically before the release of Skyrim. To play Skyrim and other games. Was the first system I built back in 2011..
Could be a corrupted BIOS on that EVGA board, apparently that is something that can happen. Some of those older motherboards have socketed BIOS chips, so they can be easily replaced, but finding an exact match could be tricky these days, and you'd still need some way to program the chip with the correct BIOS. For newer BIOS chips there are programmers available that you can clip onto the chip and connect to a different computer to read/write the contents of the BIOS chip.
Nah, I believe is the battery on the motherboard that’s needs to replace. Since most battery on the motherboard last 3 to 5 years, after that you need to replace the old to a newer ones.
Keep up the great content Greg! Due to your videos and methods I have gotten the confidence to help diagnose my friends PC problems. Can be frustrating while also very rewarding! Cant wait to see you hit 1 mil subs
I finally guessed one right! This is one of my favorite series, Greg because I learn something new every time. BTW I would have put the sound card on a lower slot for more free airflow to the GPU. Looking forward to the next one.
You can't put it on the lower slot, thats a PCI slot, u need PCI-e x1. So the slot above the GPU would have made sense. 17:06 there are 3 PCI-e x1 slots, the one below the PCI-e x16 is occupied by the GPU, so that leaves the bottom one (two down from the gpu, that blocked the airflow) and the top one, which was the original config anyway. So idk why he didn't just replicate that.
You should know that he forgot to check the CMOS battery on the 'dysfunctional' mobo. It is highly possible that the power cycle issue was being caused by a bad CMOS battery. It happens all the time.
Always love these videos, I enjoy the content and it helps me keep my pc running happy and healthy. If something goes wrong, I'd hopefully be able to fix it.
I'm still using a Corsair 800D too...no need to change....need the space for my cooling loop....same one since Nov 2014. I enjoy the content. Nice to see someone helping others!
I was actually surprised it was the mobo---EVGA has a pretty good track record for reliability. This was sort of a history lesson in a way. Back in the mid 2000's, that was a sweet rig with great specs....but of course, time marches on, and what's hot today becomes tomorrow's history lesson
There is nothing wrong with that board apart from a negligent owner that didn't care about doing maintenance on 10+ yo electronic hardware. a 1$ battery change would have avoided this situation, and the board still isn't dead. It just doesn't know which gates to open RN. Reflash and donzo. So in summary, your surprise is based on faulty info, and a bias towards EVGA. I'll tell you right now, I don't trust any company, but back in late 2000s companies actually had intentions not to deliver crap products. Literally half the boards on the market RN are like 3-6 layer PCBs. Back then we had 8-12 layers PCBs and still they bent, somehow manufacturers have realized moving into a problem actually profits them. modern LGA hold down clamps literally bend the CPU IHSs. How tf have we gone backwards?
I wonder if the bad Motherboard has a bad BIOS flash or corrupt BIOS. But he didn't mention anything about the BIOS. Maybe the board doesn't have a BIOS Flashback Feature.
The fact that it never posted is a clue that this might be correct, but if the BIOS is the culprit, the cycling would not be happening. This is 100% a power-delivery issue.
I love the older gen high end boards with power button/reset buttons on board, clear cmos, memory refresh even this board has holes for 775 and 1156 so when u upgraded you could use your old cooler. Would have been a nice little upgrade to get him the i7 870 for only 10 bucks more.
My previous system was an core 2 quad, MB is P7N SLI, ddr 2x4, GPU- MSI 580 Lightning Extreme edition. It had the same problem. Used it from 2008 to 2015. I will try to fix the problem using this video as a guideline. Thanks brother.
yeah you saw that it bent alot when he puts in the 24pin connector. Should be fixable with some new screwable standoffs. I wonder why he didn't bother fixing that.
Nice video.. I am not sure I would have put that new I5 chip into his old MB in case what ever defect is on that MB could scorch the new chip... Also, seems the UA-cam folks have finally tried to fix the system to keep all those scammers at bay for a little while..
I still think that the best April Fools video would be: Breaking a Viewer's WORKING Gaming PC. Also, unrelated but MrBeast video and now Greg video?! Holy shit, what an awesome Saturday!
I have an EVGA X58 motherboard, about the same age but with an LGA1366 socket, with the exact same issue as the board you had (with the power button just like that at the bottom and the exact same kind of boot loop). In my case, it happened after an attempt at a CPU upgrade - I had rebuilt the system in a different case (like yours, the old case was monstrous) with an upgraded CPU, but forgot to update the BIOS first. I put the old CPU back in, and it bootlooped 2 or 3 times before starting instead of starting right up. That was the last time I saw it running - I had to shut it down to boot to the BIOS update USB drive, and it never turned on again - instead just continuously bootlooping. A couple of months later, I tried to turn it on again, and this time smelled smoke... I don't know what's wrong either, but it's another data point. If you contact EVGA about it, maybe something to mention. Nice video, thanks a lot!
I want it just to fill with hard drives and make a massive storage server, but just to make people angry use an itx MB with a pic card to allow more drives
As someone who would love to own a computer shop this series has given me so much insight and valuable knowledge and scenarios. Truly appreciate every single of of these.
Dust the CPU pins with a detail brush very lightly in the direction of the pins, then blow out with compressed air if possible. Do the same with the RAM slots and the PCI-E slots, I've got two "dead" motherboards working by simply doing this. One had a single fragment of dirt ingess in the CPU socket (which I missed on multiple inspections, and only noticed under a microscope on about the 5th inspetion), the other was brought back to life be cleaning out the DIMM slots. Case reminds me of a Thermaltake F51 Suppressor I inherited last winter, just ungodly huge.
Personally i think its either a dead cmos or a failed chip, on older boards its common, especially not posting at all if the battery is dead and if its the original battery it’s gonna either be dead or too low a voltage, not seen one of these boards for years, I remember doing a clear cmos by taking the battery out once and it wouldn’t post until i put it back in, I’m glad that issue went away with later gens
this is nostalgic, ive rocked an i3-540, 2c 4t way way back... and a blue colored 1156 intel mobo ... this brings sweet sweet gaming memories ... thanks for your service greg
Unreal he didn't check this, or that eprom idea. CMOS battery though, is a no brainer, you would assume,.... Why is Greg so bad at this while being otherwise good? and calling a Core series "from the early 2002s, " ...cringe.
I still have my Obsidian 800D sitting right here. It's housed several computers over the years. When I first got it my intention was to put in a custom water cooling loop but well, it never happened. I'm loving my newer 5000D with my latest hardware. A much more practical size
I want to thank these videos for giving me the confidence to be able to diagnose the issues with my pc yesterday after it stopped posting when I installed a new a cooler. I went through all the steps and knew to look out for the EZ Debug lights to know what to focus on. Turns out all I needed to do was reset the CMOS for some reason as the VGA light was staying on. Not sure why that happened after just replacing the cooler, but I'm glad it was an easy fix.
Have you tried to replace the bios battery? I've seen plenty of boards which didn't boot because the battery's voltage was too low, I'm dealing with board from this period regularly.
Oh good lord. I last had a full-size case back around 1999 or 2000 when I bought a state-of-the-art Micron Millennium and had it shipped to me. The total at the time was around $3800 IIRC. I've still got the damn thing in a closet around here somewhere, but have since forgotten the specs. One thing I loved was that there was a ton of room in there to work on things.
it's almost as big as that sound card.Still,i don't think this was the original configuration this case had.The owner probably had parts laying around and threw them together,i mean there is an EVGA motherboard that looks to have been mid to high end,with RAM that has agressive heatsinks but the CPU has a 10$ cooler along with a modular Seasonic PSU so it does't really make sense
my answer was the MB , after the first 4 secs of the vid , when the unit powered on and off , probably when they upgraded the case they forgot a standoff on the case and when they screwed down the board or added the ram or the graphics they pushed too hard and it severed a connection on the PCB , 4 secs lol , but ive been building computers for over 30yrs so i knew this .. :) , nice work on the troubleshoot , keep it up
17:43 you seriously put the sound card in front of the single fan GPU? I know the customer can change it back on top or you probably switched it back after, but come on it's so irrational.
@@CAOSWOLFIII I should have put a timestamp at 17:43, he put the sound card in front of the graphics card, it was behind it originally as it should be.
I was going to say something similar. However, the sound card cannot be placed any lower. That sound card is PCIe, the slots further down are old school PCI, so is incompatible, it could however go above the GPU like how it was placed in the original motherboard. I also wondered why it was placed as it was to choke out the GPUs airflow.
@@MisterGiGs It's PCIe X1, so it can indeed go above the GPU. If there is any shorting concern, a coating of liquid electrical tape (like Plastidip) can be put on the back of the GPU like a conformal coating, or even the tails of the THCs can be trimmed, further reducing the chance of a short.
Having exact same problem with mine. I believe it's the mobo as well. Replaced cpu, no go. CPU red light flashes on mobo. Ordered new mobo and CPU. Hopefully will fix issue
Yeah the case is large but also helps with having space for larger water cooling setup if he gets to that. I'm still using my 900D got a decade ago and it can rock the massive 360-420-480 rads in push/pull without any clearance issues.
I have the same case, the Corsair 850D, it was equipped with an i7 950 CPU with LGA1366 socket, now I build a ryzen system, with a custom water loop and a lot of RGB, and that is pretty much where it was build for. Also, the swapable HD bays made it easy to change drives. But yes, it breaks your back, it's a typical, stand and don't move case. But the airflow is very good, from the bottom to the top.
Hey greg, many thanks to putting CC (closed captions) because for being deaf and to understand whats the problem on the pc. Basically u're like PC whisperer (jk) i had that issue many years ago and i thought it was my PSU after many power outage and in the end it was the mobo and socket PCI-E dead, and i had to buy almost everything, new mobo + CPU + memory ram as u mentioned before if the mobo and cpu is dead. Keep it up the good videos!
this series is very helpsome! i am a complete noob when it comes to hardware. but i just managed to dissasemble gaming laptop. deepclean it, repaste, put it back together again and it still works!! yaay. and the idle temps has gone down by 20-30 degrees celsius!! its only 14 months old with a 3070 mobile in it, but the factory paste was rock hard and bone dry, and when i got it i was gaming in quite a dusty environment. so now it great. gaming temp has also gone down a large amount. from 86(max templimit i set in sw) to 68-70 celsius peak temp on gpu. thx
If you look closely at the compacitor or resister there is a slight tear in the top blue ones by the socket, and a bubble on one part of it, when the compacitors or resisters go they tear, sometimes they leak fluid onto the top or bottom of the capacitor or resisters. That one is just barely blown so you can barely see it. Though are the capacitors or resisters the give power to the cpu.
Man was that case hella thick, Greg! Reminds me of my old dragon case that would give me a hernia anytime I looked at it! Awesome video as always! Glad to see that you had to order some spare parts so that you now have as every tech loves additional hardware to test out more systems! Great job buddy! I did think it was the motherboard. Once again your troubleshooting skills are epic.
Oh I love older PC's, rocking a 3rd gen i7 it still slaps I like seeing these get attention and being used still, this whole episode reminds me what I went through with my old system this year actually though it was almost doing the same except there were times it worked fine, I suspected my board was dying because I tried different rams different CPU and the problem persisted I didn't have a board or a different PSU to test though, so I was pretty sure it was the board, wrong, it was my power supply, lol. PSUs and Boards when they are malfunctioning or stop functioning have very similar symptoms. PCs are sooooo crazy when it comes to troubleshooting.
I have a huge case from years ago. Not sure what it is. But it has mounting points for 12 hard drives plus 2 optical drives. I have an older system ( FM2) in It and use it for a storage server.
In my experience, when a PC keeps experiencing this exact issue, it usually has to do with the CPU. Either the CPU isn't in the socket all the way, or the power cable for the CPU isn't plugged in or plugged in properly. I love this series for this exact reason, because I can further expand my knowledge on different symptoms and their solution. Keep it up Greg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've had two of these EVGA P55 FTW boards paired with an i7-860S. I managed a full 1.5 ghz overclock and was stable for 2-3 years until the board started dying. It would power off randomly which became more frequently then had similar behavior at the end with this board you have where it'd power cycle. I hunted for another p55 ftw on ebay and slapped everything back together and oc'd to 3.75ghz and gave away to my friend... Really great memories with that setup. I miss that era where if you were brave and patient you could be rewarded with some nasty overclocks!
I'd consider there was a bios issue. There are $20 flashing tools on amazon that you can flash a board's rom chip in without it being on. If all else fails and a board is considered dead, its worth a shot to troubleshoot and try to revive the board.
Omg those huge old hernia-inducing cases that held a half-dozen spinners bring back unpleasant memories. Almost the only systems I build nowadays are ITX (and the very occasional mATX). Thank goodness for M.2 SSDs... best thing ever.
Here in South Africa we often have power dips and surges and I've seen these exact same symptoms countless times, and it's always the motherboard, sometimes the PSU, but in general, that power cycle is indicative of a bad motherboard.
and i thought my old rigs Gigabyte B75M board is old, but this one beats it by 3 years lol and still works, great quality i dare say (my own B75M also still works, just got semi retired due to upgrading to a new gaming rig, but its amazing how long those old motherboards are working!)
20:07 Is it just me or are those caps crooked? Maybe a power surge popped some of these and that's why it just power loops. Sometimes they do look physically fine but internaly they're done.
Started binging these recently been wondering what that little monitor is. Seems ideal for someone that has a mini pc specifically for traveling. Leave the big powerful rig at home. Take the mini good enough system with you. Just never had the portable screen.
Anyone else hoping the motherboard would be fine just to see Greg's frustrated reaction? I love those moments when Greg comes across a problem that involves a more deeper examination and investigation. Fix or Flop is like a mystery thriller but for PCs. Detective Salazar is on the case (pardon the pun).
This is so far my fave Fix or Flop solely because this rig is very similar to my own :) My PC was built Feb 2010 and still works wonderfully. Core i5 750 (so one step down from this viewer's i5 760) Gigabyte motherboard as well -- mine is the identical model to the one Greg swapped in, but with the P55 chipset rather than H55. Same blue board, same connectors, same 3-3-3 system (the main difference is P55 has more PCIe bandwidth so supports Crossfire, H55 does not... the viewer's original board was P55) Almost every rig featured in this playlist is a 7th gen or newer. I'm glad to see my OG Lynnfield series represented!
As always, great fix Greg! Love this series please keep it going. I have a soft spot in my heart for the blue Gigabyte MB, almost zero failures and tons of success 🥳
It's hard listening to you dog on an 800d corsair case it's a legend for enthusiast water cooling, hot swapping drives, the case is just glorious especially during it's time. The cases clean lines will never go out of style, and I still have an editing rig in an 800d. I will admit though seeing air cooling in one is a turn off. :P
The mobo has separate power/reset buttons on the board. Have you checked those? Maybe one is jammed or shorting? Desoldering those 2 buttons should be quick and easy to verify.
I found this Fix or Flop episode of particular interest as I had a similar problem this week and it wasn't a CPU or Motherboard issue. I took a graphics card from a PC whose PSU started smelling badly and inserted it into another working PC. Result, no display. Replaced the now identified as faulty Graphics card with the original card back into the working PC. Result, PC now cycling on and off and won't boot. Moved the original graphics card into another PCI slot in case the original slot was now damaged. Result, PC still cycling on and off and won't boot. Living in the UK and now with two PCs apparently faulty, shipping to you is obviously a non-starter.... I have just bought a SeaSonic PSU hopefully to replace the smelly PSU with but with it also came a free PSU tester. This is essentially a plastic socket with some connections enabled which slides on to the 24 pin plug normally plugged in to the motherboard. I took this PSU tester and plugged it into the PSU of what was my working PC and switched it on. Result PSU started spinning as it should. Plugged the PSU back into the motherboard and switched it on. Result, PC booted (Original Graphics card still in the second slot.) Moved the Graphics card into the first slot and switched the PC on. Result, PC cycling on and off and wouldn't boot. Removed the 24 pin plug from the motherboard and connected up the PSU tester. Result PSU started spinning as it should. Plugged the 24 pin plug back into the motherboard and switched on the PC. Result PC booted and has been working fine since. I am confused how this has fixed the PC but happy that I don't have two paperweights on my desk. What do you think?
Love this channel. My favourite thing to do is guess the problem before you diagnose it. I've already got a few guesses just need to watch with a few mates could turn it into a drinking game 😅
What a coincidence, I had exactly the same issue with my old PC (I7 860) a few months back. "The culprit" was the sheer presence of my old CMOS battery, after removing/ replacing it PC turned on just fine and keeps runnig up to this day. I strongly suggest doing the same for this mobo
Either try to reflash the bios on the old board or try powering it on without cpu cable. If turns on w/o cpu - something on the cpu vrm section is done (yeah, some older boards actually tried turning on with this malfunction).
IGNORE any comments from accounts requesting contact via Telegram or any other app. We're working on a way to smoke them out, but until then please report and ignore. Sorry that it's come to this! UA-cam doesn't seem to care... at all.
Thanks for that information Greg. It answer a question or two that I was wondering about.
Yeah, I got those a few times and totally knew to just report them as Spam and to report their channel as Impersonating you.
I think is the battery in the motherboard is the issues.
Thanks for the heads up its on almost ervery chanel i watch. And yeah youtube does not seem to care about bot acounts.
Check ThioJoe's latest video, they're tightening their spam detection :)
I've had a lot of experience with first generation Intel platforms. In my experience I've seen the same kind of symptom when the CMOS battery goes dead. I would honestly recommend trying to switch out the CMOS battery to see if you get any kind of post. It could also be that when the CMOS battery went dead it could have taken out the BIOS. Unfortunately these old boards don't have dual bioses or else it may have been possible to reflash.
Ahh, yes he didn't check the CMOS battery voltage, great point on an older board, I recently had to replace the battery on a 2015 laptop that I was upgrading!🤩🤩
thought the same about the battery recently got a new/old stock dell prebuilt did the same thing replaced the battery and was greeted by the windows 7 setup wizard
Very good point. Maybe Greg is just tired.
I hear you, I'm sitting here screaming "check the battery" ect. Are you kidding me!!!!
I was just going to type this but I think you hit the nail on the head
The toughest part of the Fix or Flop series....is waiting for the next one.
Right?! Can't wait to see what the next one brings.
I'm addicted as well for sure
if i was living near him, i would intentionally break my pc 💀
The first gen stuff, always a power cycling issues, I had one motherboard fail on me
This sort of power cycling problem can be indicative of a bricked BIOS. The EVGA board from the video (P55 LE) looks to have a socketed BIOS chip, I would have looked for a cheap USB programmer to re-flash the chip. I have also seen many listings on eBay for replacement BIOS chips for the P55 LE which are sub 10 bucks, it would be worth a shot for a follow-up video.
Or just a bad CMOS battery on those old Intel boards...
I think those flash chips start do have bit flips after 10-15y. so maybe reflash before system is 10y old
@@RandomTechVideos that's what I was going to say.
@@LimbaZero what your saying should be impossible as bios is physically burned into the chip... or at least that my understanding.
@@t8z5h3 If it's eeprom or flash then they will die over time. Search for bitrotting or bit rot.
Also Adamant IT has many videos where he reflash bios to old motherboard to fix them.
3:39
Just you popping your head out and saying
“Hey, how are you doing?”
Instantly brought a smile on my face :)
i would probably look at the battery on the motherboard to see if it has a decent charge or if it has to be replaced because these can sometimes do a lot of strange things like this when they have to be replaced. you should probably get replacement batteries for diagnosing such systems and these are pretty inexpensive and easy to get and as you always say : always try the easy stuff first .
I would of tried the last latest update on the bios from the manufacture website. :)
@@adamtajhassam9188 the motherboard was not even posting so i doubt you could update it since it had no bios flashback function on that board. the bios chip may be simply dead
The cmos battery runs the primary clock that everything on the system works around. If the battery is dead, the comp will never work right.
with the computer as old as it is, the CMOS battery was one of the first things I would check. even if it doesn't look bad. cheap enough to try.
@@TheFlamerGamer3 yeah, and even if you don't have a new one on hand you can still pull it and see if the symptom changes. Then put back in and test. I've had an old AMD system that refused to post. I pulled the cmos battery and tested it with my tongue which passed so I put back in and it posted. My guess is that the little spring that contacts the positive pad got corroded even though it looked great. And just moving it fixed it. Now when I troubleshoot "worked when parked" issues, part of my pre inspection includes re seating the battery.
love these videos greg! they gave me confidence to build (and possibly troubleshoot) my very first rig a few months back and it’s been smooth ever since :) keep it up!
ya know Greg, with machines like this one you'd can make an entirely different video showing it's performance. It's pretty cool to look back on older, nicer rigs like this one -- that is if you can fix them. Just keep some gaming drives ready for these builds so u dont have to access user OS/personal stuff.
Wow, what a massive case for such little hardware. Enjoy these fix or flops the most Greg! Your the best!!!!
Ironic how we're all saying CHECK CMOS GREG! and yet on other videos people are all like "why take the time to check CMOS OMG"..... love it. Love the channel. Love PCs.
Wow. I had a Obsidian 800D and the same creative soundblaster. That volume knob was cool, it felt retro even at the time to change the volume on your PC using a knob.
I still control my audio volume with a knob, it's on the keyboard though.
I would try reflashing the BIOS. AdamantIT has some great videos about how to program the flash chip with an external programmer.
Maybe the bios was corrupted.
@@SFearox That is one of the things to cross my mind.
I was just about to say that it looks a lot like a bad BIOS update on these older platforms.
The sound card was behind the graphics card but you have now installed the soundcard in front of the graphics card blocking its fan, nice one.
he put no love into this one thats for sure
Big cases are very easy to work in, especially for beginners or people with big hands. It also gives a great opportunity for good airflow not blocked by junk.
yes
It also makes your computer look impressive. I set up a customer with an old Packard Bell gaming case. It was huge but the GPU space was taken up by drive bays. Fortunately he used a small GPU.
It's pretty cool seeing older hardware still getting use.
Is it really surprising considering the prices on new hardware?
13:38 you can clearly see a burnt component on the replacement board next to where it says MOS_HS1. clear as bloody day
"I am really not looking forward to this one" such an honest moment, and you don't edit it out, you let it out spontaneously and we feel for you because for sure these kind of issues are nightmares to troubleshoot. And that's why without even watching the rest I pause and comment: I already know it's going to be another great episode!
Thanks Greg!
Greg, really nice that you're considering helping people out with older platforms. Not only going for mainstream builds fixes. Cheers
This case was my first PC build in 2010. It was around $300. Corsair obsidian 800d I think. It was meant for water cooling and running multiple gpus which was the thing back then.
So what? What should we do?
@@chanunwee4898 I thought it was interesting a-hole.
I have had surgery on my hand, and will be on sick leave for 12 weeks, and you are saving my days with all your troubleshooting and deep cleanings. Of course I subscribe, and keep up the good work! Greetings from Sweden :)
Really enjoy these videos, teaches us all a thing or two about alternatives in fixing our very own PCs.
3:38 made me actually lol! Always great content!
Hey Greg, I have yet to watch the video, but am commenting now because I know you often hang around comments for the first hour or so. Just want to say that this has turned into one of my favorite PC-related series on UA-cam. It was a great idea from the start and has been well executed. I've enjoyed watching you get more and more experienced with troubleshooting each system, and I'm wondering, do you have plans to try making a general troubleshooting process guide video? You could make a really great resource for the PC space. I'm envisioning something where a user posting for help in a forum could be told, "Go watch this video and follow every step, then report back." Just a thought. Keep up the fantastic work!
This PC takes me back...
I had an I7-980 years ago and a ASUS GTX 570.. Asus X56 Sabertooth Mobo, 12GB of RAM! Built it myself in a cooler master HAF 922. Was a wicked system at the time had an SSD. Built specifically before the release of Skyrim. To play Skyrim and other games. Was the first system I built back in 2011..
Could be a corrupted BIOS on that EVGA board, apparently that is something that can happen. Some of those older motherboards have socketed BIOS chips, so they can be easily replaced, but finding an exact match could be tricky these days, and you'd still need some way to program the chip with the correct BIOS. For newer BIOS chips there are programmers available that you can clip onto the chip and connect to a different computer to read/write the contents of the BIOS chip.
Nah, I believe is the battery on the motherboard that’s needs to replace. Since most battery on the motherboard last 3 to 5 years, after that you need to replace the old to a newer ones.
Had a similar issue on a Z97 motherboard I was working with. Thankfully, that sucker had Dual BIOS.
@@lightgod2255 It’s bit-rot lol.
Stop guessing
Keep up the great content Greg! Due to your videos and methods I have gotten the confidence to help diagnose my friends PC problems. Can be frustrating while also very rewarding! Cant wait to see you hit 1 mil subs
I finally guessed one right! This is one of my favorite series, Greg because I learn something new every time. BTW I would have put the sound card on a lower slot for more free airflow to the GPU. Looking forward to the next one.
You can't put it on the lower slot, thats a PCI slot, u need PCI-e x1. So the slot above the GPU would have made sense. 17:06 there are 3 PCI-e x1 slots, the one below the PCI-e x16 is occupied by the GPU, so that leaves the bottom one (two down from the gpu, that blocked the airflow) and the top one, which was the original config anyway. So idk why he didn't just replicate that.
You should know that he forgot to check the CMOS battery on the 'dysfunctional' mobo. It is highly possible that the power cycle issue was being caused by a bad CMOS battery. It happens all the time.
Let's watch Greg struggle to open the motherboard out of the bubble wrap
Massively dig that motherboard color!
The sound card blocking the fan so much hurts me on a physical level.
And then also not hooked back up correctly... :/
the 1660 being choked out by that dinosaur of an i5 is more painful
Ikr lmao. Should be fine tho it’s not gonna be running anything too crazy with that cpu
Working on getting a new one but my 1660 super has to live with a i3 7100
Agreed
Please tell me where I can get one of those small LED scrolling displays like the one you have in the back!
Always love these videos, I enjoy the content and it helps me keep my pc running happy and healthy. If something goes wrong, I'd hopefully be able to fix it.
I'm still using a Corsair 800D too...no need to change....need the space for my cooling loop....same one since Nov 2014. I enjoy the content. Nice to see someone helping others!
I was actually surprised it was the mobo---EVGA has a pretty good track record for reliability. This was sort of a history lesson in a way. Back in the mid 2000's, that was a sweet rig with great specs....but of course, time marches on, and what's hot today becomes tomorrow's history lesson
There is nothing wrong with that board apart from a negligent owner that didn't care about doing maintenance on 10+ yo electronic hardware. a 1$ battery change would have avoided this situation, and the board still isn't dead. It just doesn't know which gates to open RN. Reflash and donzo.
So in summary, your surprise is based on faulty info, and a bias towards EVGA. I'll tell you right now, I don't trust any company, but back in late 2000s companies actually had intentions not to deliver crap products. Literally half the boards on the market RN are like 3-6 layer PCBs. Back then we had 8-12 layers PCBs and still they bent, somehow manufacturers have realized moving into a problem actually profits them. modern LGA hold down clamps literally bend the CPU IHSs. How tf have we gone backwards?
I haven't fixed a pc in 20 years and nothing has changed only newer parts, love the series keep up the good work
I wonder if the bad Motherboard has a bad BIOS flash or corrupt BIOS. But he didn't mention anything about the BIOS. Maybe the board doesn't have a BIOS Flashback Feature.
The fact that it never posted is a clue that this might be correct, but if the BIOS is the culprit, the cycling would not be happening. This is 100% a power-delivery issue.
probably what it is..
@@mattio79 no it’s a bois issue lol
I love the older gen high end boards with power button/reset buttons on board, clear cmos, memory refresh even this board has holes for 775 and 1156 so when u upgraded you could use your old cooler. Would have been a nice little upgrade to get him the i7 870 for only 10 bucks more.
When a motherboard has an onboard power button should you still be using the pins to jump start it?
It doesn't matter. Either way. But jumping removes another failure point if the physical power button is bad.
My previous system was an core 2 quad, MB is P7N SLI, ddr 2x4, GPU- MSI 580 Lightning Extreme edition. It had the same problem. Used it from 2008 to 2015. I will try to fix the problem using this video as a guideline. Thanks brother.
Is that case missing MB standoffs on the right side/front? That seems like it could lead to a lot of flex on the PCB
yeah you saw that it bent alot when he puts in the 24pin connector. Should be fixable with some new screwable standoffs. I wonder why he didn't bother fixing that.
Nice video.. I am not sure I would have put that new I5 chip into his old MB in case what ever defect is on that MB could scorch the new chip...
Also, seems the UA-cam folks have finally tried to fix the system to keep all those scammers at bay for a little while..
I still think that the best April Fools video would be:
Breaking a Viewer's WORKING Gaming PC.
Also, unrelated but MrBeast video and now Greg video?! Holy shit, what an awesome Saturday!
Reminds me of when Tronicsfix made an April Fools video about the perfect amount of thermal paste and basically destroyed a non-working PS4.
🤣
I had no idea those to shared a lot of viewers. Made my night 😀
I have an EVGA X58 motherboard, about the same age but with an LGA1366 socket, with the exact same issue as the board you had (with the power button just like that at the bottom and the exact same kind of boot loop). In my case, it happened after an attempt at a CPU upgrade - I had rebuilt the system in a different case (like yours, the old case was monstrous) with an upgraded CPU, but forgot to update the BIOS first. I put the old CPU back in, and it bootlooped 2 or 3 times before starting instead of starting right up. That was the last time I saw it running - I had to shut it down to boot to the BIOS update USB drive, and it never turned on again - instead just continuously bootlooping. A couple of months later, I tried to turn it on again, and this time smelled smoke...
I don't know what's wrong either, but it's another data point. If you contact EVGA about it, maybe something to mention. Nice video, thanks a lot!
I need that case in my life. Totally not compensating.
xD
I want it just to fill with hard drives and make a massive storage server, but just to make people angry use an itx MB with a pic card to allow more drives
The Corsair BBW
For 20$ i also would take it ^^
As someone who would love to own a computer shop this series has given me so much insight and valuable knowledge and scenarios. Truly appreciate every single of of these.
Dust the CPU pins with a detail brush very lightly in the direction of the pins, then blow out with compressed air if possible. Do the same with the RAM slots and the PCI-E slots, I've got two "dead" motherboards working by simply doing this. One had a single fragment of dirt ingess in the CPU socket (which I missed on multiple inspections, and only noticed under a microscope on about the 5th inspetion), the other was brought back to life be cleaning out the DIMM slots. Case reminds me of a Thermaltake F51 Suppressor I inherited last winter, just ungodly huge.
Also you could reprogram the Bios chip just to be sure
Personally i think its either a dead cmos or a failed chip, on older boards its common, especially not posting at all if the battery is dead and if its the original battery it’s gonna either be dead or too low a voltage, not seen one of these boards for years, I remember doing a clear cmos by taking the battery out once and it wouldn’t post until i put it back in, I’m glad that issue went away with later gens
this is nostalgic, ive rocked an i3-540, 2c 4t way way back... and a blue colored 1156 intel mobo ... this brings sweet sweet gaming memories ... thanks for your service greg
Judging by the age of the board, I think the CMOS battery just died. Check the voltage of these on old boards.
Unreal he didn't check this, or that eprom idea. CMOS battery though, is a no brainer, you would assume,.... Why is Greg so bad at this while being otherwise good? and calling a Core series "from the early 2002s, " ...cringe.
I still have my Obsidian 800D sitting right here. It's housed several computers over the years. When I first got it my intention was to put in a custom water cooling loop but well, it never happened. I'm loving my newer 5000D with my latest hardware. A much more practical size
So much hate for the Corsair Obsidian 800D... I love mine. It's like a significant piece of furniture in my living room!
at 17:57 question y would you put that card right under the graphic's card to where the air flow is very restricted just a bit confused by that choice
The King is in the house!! I hope you enjoy your holiday weekend and time with your family. Cheers bro. 🍻
Cheers, man! Thanks for watching!
I never noticed the Sempiternal vinyl you had - Kudos points to you for now being my fav tech tuber lol
Subtitles absolutely roasting Greg 0:04
I want to thank these videos for giving me the confidence to be able to diagnose the issues with my pc yesterday after it stopped posting when I installed a new a cooler. I went through all the steps and knew to look out for the EZ Debug lights to know what to focus on. Turns out all I needed to do was reset the CMOS for some reason as the VGA light was staying on. Not sure why that happened after just replacing the cooler, but I'm glad it was an easy fix.
Have you tried to replace the bios battery? I've seen plenty of boards which didn't boot because the battery's voltage was too low, I'm dealing with board from this period regularly.
I 2nd this. I bet anything the symptoms very one model of motherboard to another. And finally it's old enough.
Oh good lord. I last had a full-size case back around 1999 or 2000 when I bought a state-of-the-art Micron Millennium and had it shipped to me. The total at the time was around $3800 IIRC. I've still got the damn thing in a closet around here somewhere, but have since forgotten the specs. One thing I loved was that there was a ton of room in there to work on things.
I love how big the case is and how tiny the gpu is. 😂
it's almost as big as that sound card.Still,i don't think this was the original configuration this case had.The owner probably had parts laying around and threw them together,i mean there is an EVGA motherboard that looks to have been mid to high end,with RAM that has agressive heatsinks but the CPU has a 10$ cooler along with a modular Seasonic PSU so it does't really make sense
my answer was the MB , after the first 4 secs of the vid , when the unit powered on and off , probably when they upgraded the case they forgot a standoff on the case and when they screwed down the board or added the ram or the graphics they pushed too hard and it severed a connection on the PCB , 4 secs lol , but ive been building computers for over 30yrs so i knew this .. :) , nice work on the troubleshoot , keep it up
17:43 you seriously put the sound card in front of the single fan GPU? I know the customer can change it back on top or you probably switched it back after, but come on it's so irrational.
Until you look at it and realize it doesn't impede the fan at all as the fan is on the side pointing down.
@@CAOSWOLFIII I should have put a timestamp at 17:43, he put the sound card in front of the graphics card, it was behind it originally as it should be.
I could watch these for days... always a joy when another one pops!
You might inadvertently cause a GPU issue by putting the sound card so close to the fan. I'd have put it one slot further away for airflow purposes.
I was going to say something similar. However, the sound card cannot be placed any lower. That sound card is PCIe, the slots further down are old school PCI, so is incompatible, it could however go above the GPU like how it was placed in the original motherboard. I also wondered why it was placed as it was to choke out the GPUs airflow.
@@MisterGiGs It's PCIe X1, so it can indeed go above the GPU. If there is any shorting concern, a coating of liquid electrical tape (like Plastidip) can be put on the back of the GPU like a conformal coating, or even the tails of the THCs can be trimmed, further reducing the chance of a short.
Having exact same problem with mine. I believe it's the mobo as well. Replaced cpu, no go. CPU red light flashes on mobo. Ordered new mobo and CPU. Hopefully will fix issue
That's a big boy indeed. Wow. I wouldn't have the space for such a huge PC.
Hi from Aussie .... Easily the best computer repair channel on the planet .. ( as always Liked )
Great video ! i have seen twice this problem (power cycling) on that platform and both was due to a broken mobo.
Yeah the case is large but also helps with having space for larger water cooling setup if he gets to that. I'm still using my 900D got a decade ago and it can rock the massive 360-420-480 rads in push/pull without any clearance issues.
Use to run SLI in case's like this....I miss SLI /Cross-fire.
Great content watching from another time zone. Learning a lot from your series.
I have the same case, the Corsair 850D, it was equipped with an i7 950 CPU with LGA1366 socket, now I build a ryzen system, with a custom water loop and a lot of RGB, and that is pretty much where it was build for. Also, the swapable HD bays made it easy to change drives. But yes, it breaks your back, it's a typical, stand and don't move case. But the airflow is very good, from the bottom to the top.
I've FINALLY upgraded from THAT exact graphics card to a 3060ti (used newish mining Palit Dual model).
Love these videos! Appreciate it Greg 🔥
Hey greg, many thanks to putting CC (closed captions) because for being deaf and to understand whats the problem on the pc. Basically u're like PC whisperer (jk) i had that issue many years ago and i thought it was my PSU after many power outage and in the end it was the mobo and socket PCI-E dead, and i had to buy almost everything, new mobo + CPU + memory ram as u mentioned before if the mobo and cpu is dead. Keep it up the good videos!
I own an 800d and I love it :D
this series is very helpsome! i am a complete noob when it comes to hardware. but i just managed to dissasemble gaming laptop. deepclean it, repaste, put it back together again and it still works!! yaay. and the idle temps has gone down by 20-30 degrees celsius!! its only 14 months old with a 3070 mobile in it, but the factory paste was rock hard and bone dry, and when i got it i was gaming in quite a dusty environment. so now it great. gaming temp has also gone down a large amount. from 86(max templimit i set in sw) to 68-70 celsius peak temp on gpu. thx
If you look closely at the compacitor or resister there is a slight tear in the top blue ones by the socket, and a bubble on one part of it, when the compacitors or resisters go they tear, sometimes they leak fluid onto the top or bottom of the capacitor or resisters. That one is just barely blown so you can barely see it. Though are the capacitors or resisters the give power to the cpu.
Man was that case hella thick, Greg! Reminds me of my old dragon case that would give me a hernia anytime I looked at it! Awesome video as always! Glad to see that you had to order some spare parts so that you now have as every tech loves additional hardware to test out more systems! Great job buddy! I did think it was the motherboard. Once again your troubleshooting skills are epic.
Oh I love older PC's, rocking a 3rd gen i7 it still slaps I like seeing these get attention and being used still, this whole episode reminds me what I went through with my old system this year actually though it was almost doing the same except there were times it worked fine, I suspected my board was dying because I tried different rams different CPU and the problem persisted I didn't have a board or a different PSU to test though, so I was pretty sure it was the board, wrong, it was my power supply, lol. PSUs and Boards when they are malfunctioning or stop functioning have very similar symptoms. PCs are sooooo crazy when it comes to troubleshooting.
Nice... I've got an i7-860 I *just* finally pulled out of my Coolermaster 690 II this morning, actually. It was still working, running like a champ.
I have a huge case from years ago. Not sure what it is. But it has mounting points for 12 hard drives plus 2 optical drives. I have an older system ( FM2) in It and use it for a storage server.
In my experience, when a PC keeps experiencing this exact issue, it usually has to do with the CPU. Either the CPU isn't in the socket all the way, or the power cable for the CPU isn't plugged in or plugged in properly. I love this series for this exact reason, because I can further expand my knowledge on different symptoms and their solution. Keep it up Greg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It's also important to check the CMOS battery as well. This 40+ dollar solution could have only cost 2 dollars.
Very nice!! Nice to see an old PC in your shop!
I've had two of these EVGA P55 FTW boards paired with an i7-860S. I managed a full 1.5 ghz overclock and was stable for 2-3 years until the board started dying. It would power off randomly which became more frequently then had similar behavior at the end with this board you have where it'd power cycle. I hunted for another p55 ftw on ebay and slapped everything back together and oc'd to 3.75ghz and gave away to my friend... Really great memories with that setup.
I miss that era where if you were brave and patient you could be rewarded with some nasty overclocks!
I'd consider there was a bios issue. There are $20 flashing tools on amazon that you can flash a board's rom chip in without it being on. If all else fails and a board is considered dead, its worth a shot to troubleshoot and try to revive the board.
Omg those huge old hernia-inducing cases that held a half-dozen spinners bring back unpleasant memories. Almost the only systems I build nowadays are ITX (and the very occasional mATX). Thank goodness for M.2 SSDs... best thing ever.
Here in South Africa we often have power dips and surges and I've seen these exact same symptoms countless times, and it's always the motherboard, sometimes the PSU, but in general, that power cycle is indicative of a bad motherboard.
and i thought my old rigs Gigabyte B75M board is old, but this one beats it by 3 years lol and still works, great quality i dare say (my own B75M also still works, just got semi retired due to upgrading to a new gaming rig, but its amazing how long those old motherboards are working!)
13:36 is that a burned capacitor near the "MOS_HS1" text ?
20:07 Is it just me or are those caps crooked? Maybe a power surge popped some of these and that's why it just power loops. Sometimes they do look physically fine but internaly they're done.
That smile at the end when the PC boots , priceless! 🤩
Started binging these recently been wondering what that little monitor is. Seems ideal for someone that has a mini pc specifically for traveling. Leave the big powerful rig at home. Take the mini good enough system with you. Just never had the portable screen.
Anyone else hoping the motherboard would be fine just to see Greg's frustrated reaction? I love those moments when Greg comes across a problem that involves a more deeper examination and investigation. Fix or Flop is like a mystery thriller but for PCs. Detective Salazar is on the case (pardon the pun).
Thanks Greg! Always enjoy your content.
This is so far my fave Fix or Flop solely because this rig is very similar to my own :) My PC was built Feb 2010 and still works wonderfully.
Core i5 750 (so one step down from this viewer's i5 760)
Gigabyte motherboard as well -- mine is the identical model to the one Greg swapped in, but with the P55 chipset rather than H55. Same blue board, same connectors, same 3-3-3 system
(the main difference is P55 has more PCIe bandwidth so supports Crossfire, H55 does not... the viewer's original board was P55)
Almost every rig featured in this playlist is a 7th gen or newer. I'm glad to see my OG Lynnfield series represented!
As always, great fix Greg! Love this series please keep it going. I have a soft spot in my heart for the blue Gigabyte MB, almost zero failures and tons of success 🥳
It's hard listening to you dog on an 800d corsair case it's a legend for enthusiast water cooling, hot swapping drives, the case is just glorious especially during it's time. The cases clean lines will never go out of style, and I still have an editing rig in an 800d. I will admit though seeing air cooling in one is a turn off. :P
The mobo has separate power/reset buttons on the board. Have you checked those? Maybe one is jammed or shorting? Desoldering those 2 buttons should be quick and easy to verify.
I found this Fix or Flop episode of particular interest as I had a similar problem this week and it wasn't a CPU or Motherboard issue.
I took a graphics card from a PC whose PSU started smelling badly and inserted it into another working PC. Result, no display.
Replaced the now identified as faulty Graphics card with the original card back into the working PC. Result, PC now cycling on and off and won't boot.
Moved the original graphics card into another PCI slot in case the original slot was now damaged. Result, PC still cycling on and off and won't boot.
Living in the UK and now with two PCs apparently faulty, shipping to you is obviously a non-starter....
I have just bought a SeaSonic PSU hopefully to replace the smelly PSU with but with it also came a free PSU tester.
This is essentially a plastic socket with some connections enabled which slides on to the 24 pin plug normally plugged in to the motherboard.
I took this PSU tester and plugged it into the PSU of what was my working PC and switched it on. Result PSU started spinning as it should.
Plugged the PSU back into the motherboard and switched it on. Result, PC booted (Original Graphics card still in the second slot.)
Moved the Graphics card into the first slot and switched the PC on. Result, PC cycling on and off and wouldn't boot.
Removed the 24 pin plug from the motherboard and connected up the PSU tester. Result PSU started spinning as it should.
Plugged the 24 pin plug back into the motherboard and switched on the PC. Result PC booted and has been working fine since.
I am confused how this has fixed the PC but happy that I don't have two paperweights on my desk.
What do you think?
wow that's a big boy! i like seeing the older platforms in these videos
Love this channel. My favourite thing to do is guess the problem before you diagnose it. I've already got a few guesses just need to watch with a few mates could turn it into a drinking game 😅
What a coincidence, I had exactly the same issue with my old PC (I7 860) a few months back. "The culprit" was the sheer presence of my old CMOS battery, after removing/ replacing it PC turned on just fine and keeps runnig up to this day. I strongly suggest doing the same for this mobo
Either try to reflash the bios on the old board or try powering it on without cpu cable. If turns on w/o cpu - something on the cpu vrm section is done (yeah, some older boards actually tried turning on with this malfunction).