Great vid man!! This was very informative and detailed. Man, this just made feel so much better about trying airbrush painting a gundam. That Red Warrior was just amazing with that color. Keep up the great stuff man.
Thanks mate 👍. I'm going to use your technique when I paint the car I'm building. Metallic gold base with metallic gun metal shading and candy red overall. Your video was very inspiring. Thanks 😊
The Gold base is what makes it a Candy Apple instead of normal Candy. Basically Iron Man colors but his mix adds a real cool depth and richness over a standard Candy Apple. Mixing new colors is a fun and secondary hobby within the main hobby ;)
Brilliant Video, mate! You explained and showed so many techniques so quickly but explained perfect! This is like the perfect crash course for beginners in spray! Bless you my friend! This video earned you my subscription for life! This is going to be soo helpful for the custom marvel figures im going to post videos of soon!!
@@Curioventura the wee round raised bit in the middle I got it off that Andy's headquarters video about how much he uses to thin the paint to a perfect spray! Its not much atoll about 5mil or something it looks like all it holds but go check his videos out it's on a few of his as Tamyia paints are like water as they are you don't need much!
I managed to do a reasonable candy effect on a number of practice spoons, but the moment I moved on to Gunpla pieces, it all went to crap. It was like edges and corners were actively pushing away my paint, making pools everywhere. Then I tried another spoon and it went well again. Basically, as long as my Gundam is shaped like a spoon, I can candy coat; otherwise, no dice. I was using Mr Hobby lacquers for all layers, and a lower PSI to try to avoid blasting the clear paint everywhere and promote a glossier look.
Too high of pressure, too much paint, too slow of movement when spraying, paint is thinned too much or the surface you're spraying is not clean and has oils from your fingers on them. There's your list to check off lol
@@THEleatherface24 My pressure was roughly 12 PSI and I wore gloves throughout, so I don't think those are the problems - although candy coating videos have recommended differing levels, as high as 35 PSI, so I don't know what to think. Paint thinness or amount is probably it, but I'm not sure how to remedy that. It looked and felt like a milky consistency, really fluid but still able to leave paint on the side of the colour cup. And I was doing multiple thin coats on my later pieces, after the single heavy coat in this video left me with massive puddling. My airbrush speed is fairly fast, faster than most of the videos I've seen anyway. If I spray as slowly as a lot of these guys are, then I end up with pooling with all kinds of paints, not just clears.
Just its most likely your paint is too thin but I'd recheck the list above until you find what it is. At the very least, you have multiple ideas now to troubleshoot with. Let me know what it is when you figure it out of which I'm sure you will. BTW, thats me but from another account of mine lol
Very informative video Curioventura! I didn't even think to consider practicing painting with an airbrush using plastic spoons when I started out. Did you do anything to prepare the spoons like what you do with the plastic kits? I stopped short of fully getting into the hobby because I was afraid of messing up my kits (2 built HG kits, with a few MG and a PG kits sitting in boxes) with a bad paint job. I still have a lot of learning and practicing to do (when I find the time). Looking forward to more how to and tutorial videos in the future! Keep up the great work!
Thank you so much and im so happy this helped you! No i didnt prep the spoons at all but i never touched the parts that i painted with my bare hands either before painting them. I suggest you start with the spoons, then Cheap SD kits. There will be plenty more videos of different techniques to come so please stay tuned and share these vids😊
Thanks for the tip! I'll definitely practice airbrushing with spoons to start. SD kits don't interest me much, so I need to learn how to fix my building mistakes from the 2 HG 1/100 kits I have (ie. badly cut parts from sprues and covering seem lines). I'll definitely be tuning in for more vids like more painting and finishing techniques (the candy colors are definitely eye catching, so hopefully more videos on other finishes such as matte, metallics or a combination of both)!
Fun video. Great for if I ever get an airbrush. I'm getting ready to ruin a master grade Kampfer this summer in an attempt to candy coat with rattle cans.
Great tutorial there. Kinda blew my mind you didn't rely on gloss black to bring out the shine of the metallics. Also, I might be doing my next project in clear blue, would you give some advice on some good choices of base metallics?
Thanks man and theres a lot of techniques that arent really necessary to get great results as many would swear on. Try tamiya aluminum for the base. Youll get some good vibrant blue out of that as the base
@@Curioventura thanks! Wasn't sure if the red clear coat would protect the paint too. For regular paints do you recommend a matte coating or clear coating, or gloss coating?
You could really benefit from a lapel (lavallier) mic. Then process the audio track to get your volume up. You can't just raise the volume, or it'll clip. There's couple of tutorial videos on my channel (not a plug) that show you how to give your voice a more broadcast (radio) quality. You could just process your audio without the lapel mic and you'd get a much better audio quality. A lapel mic would just bring the mic closer, so you'd eliminate some of the room echo from the audio track. Great video, very informative n some cool paint finish. Subbed thanks.
I actually bought and have just started using a Rhode Video Mic. I had a boya lavalleir mic that took a dump on me after 2 videos. Im self funded so ive been slowly getting the ancillary supplies to make better quality videos little by little. Ill check out your channel nonetheless and one can always benefit from those more experienced!
@@Curioventura Yeh, I use a Rode Mic too. If you use that Chains tutorial video on my channel (main page half way down), then your audio quality will jump right up. Don't forget to record 15 seconds of just room noise before every recording, so you can subtract that from the audio file in processing. On that video, there are links in the description where you can get the filters, and I also tell you how to install them.
Random and stupid question : is there a way to achieve this via hand painting? I feel more confident like that but I’ll be transitioning to airbrush soon Ps: awesome video can’t wait to try
Subscribed. This video is really helpful and easy to understand. I only have one thing to confirm, did you thin the clear color the same way? Thank you.
I got a reasonably good result using a Tamiya gold spray can and applying the clear red with a brush. Now that I’m the proud owner of an airbrush I’l try this technique. Sorry the noob question, but do you tin also the transparent Tamiya color? Because in the video you are apparently using the color directly from the jar ;)
Spray cans do work for this technique but yes, airbrushing is what its meant for. Congrats on your new airbrush! A whole new world is open to you now! Yes I thinned the clear as well, same ratio as the other paints.
@@Curioventura denatured alcohol has a pink tint to it, isn’t going to be a issue? Denatured alcohol is also including additives to make it unsuitable to human consumption, do you think these additives could stain or ruin the color?
Not sure what type you're using but I get mine at Lowes. Jts clear and you may want to look into that. It has no sugars such as in alcohol for human consumption which is a good thing.
Wow! I wanna make that red warrior now. I am a beginner but may I ask how you got the guns on the back to go up and how did you make the horns on it’s head? Which effect did you use on the red warrior (eg with the non metallic red base paint in the tutorial) and did you use metallic black for the black parts on it? Thanks a lot sorry for having so much questions 😅😅😅
Do it! They actually come like that from the kit if i recall correctly. The horns were 2 beam sabers that I heated, bent and carved. I did the non metallic base and pre-shaded with 2 reds and black. All flat so when the red clear goes on, it makes all of the base colors super rich and vibrant. Ask away! Thats what im here for!
Curioventura Thanks so much! I liked and subscribed! Would it be ok if I top-coated it with gloss and painted it with the gold+black on the outsides+clear red combo? As i am wondering how you get that nice shiny type of texture on the red warrior
Hi curio, Longtime fan of your work. My question to you is do you always normally use acrylics to airbrush with? And why? I have heard acrylics have the best shiny clears. Cheers chris
I've been googling a loooooot but I still can't find the answer to one question. Do you need to varnish these paints or are they resilient enough on their own? I tried a glossy varnish over mine but it feels like it killed a bit of the shine.
Video has taught me a lot, and it's definitely gotten me the urge to start making something really wicked. Quick question though,I have had it engrained in my head to always prime a model kit before doing anything paint related. But across all of this, I haven't seen any primer used. Do you prime? Do you think priming for this technique is a good idea?
You can. I normally just clean everything down with either alcohol or dishwasher soap and water, then I dont touch the areas to be painted again with bare hands so I dont get any oils or contaminants on the piece
Do you recommend thinning the tamiya paints as soon as I buy them, like you did on the video? Or will it mess anything up if I decide later to mix on a separate container, let's say tamiya gloss red and tamiya gloss blue tamiya acrylic paints if I already thinned the whole jar? Also is the ratio of thinner for metallic and regular Tamiya gloss colors the same ratio for tamiya clear gloss top coat? I bought Mr. color leveling thinner, is it the same ratio as the alcohol used on the video or less? And if I use Mr. Color leveling thinner, will it act the same as 91% isopropyl alcohol and dry fast in 2-5mins like 91% alcohol does? Thanks a lot man!
Lots of questions lol. They don't need to be thinned anytime soon. I have some unopened jars for years that are still just fine. If you're mixing pre thinned paints, make sure they are thinned the same and you should have no issue. Mixing new paint with prethinned will require you to thin the paint further. Can't say with the Mr. Color thinner. Try it on a little paint and see how it responds.
Nope. The part counts a little high and theres a few leg pieces that could make you scratch your head lol. If you check out my Instagram feed way back , youll see build pics of one that I did.
Awesome video, I started painting kits recently and have been struggling with candy effect. Any reason you don't apply a gloss black base coat before the metallic color? Do you know the pressure you are using even without a meter? I have been using 20 PSI to apply both the metallic and clear paints, but I'm not sure it's the right pressure. Thanks!
While I wait for my portable airbrush kit.. to arive Im looking for vids to get me started.. This looks like a good one so new paint + just a small smidge of alcohol to thin and mix and spray.. hmm can I use water? And will this work with citadel paints?
Just curious, what are the benefits of spraying at 30 PSI? With Tamiya acrylics I generally hear people advise to thin 50:50 or so and spray at 15-20 psi.
Resin kits, yes. Regular polystyrene kits, sometimes. Ill mostly do it when I'm changing from a dark to a light color like red or black to white but that's so i dont blow tons of paint. As long as the surface is super clean and mildly sanded, you'll be fine with no primer
What is your timeframe from first layer to last? Many forums say wait a day between each type of colour or coat but it seems like you do this in one sitting? I'm looking to use tamiya gold leaf as a base. You think that'll work similar to the titanium gold? Thanks for the tutorial!
If you thin Tamiya paints with a 50/50 91% or more alcohol, the paint dries within minutes of not seconds. The gold leaf will give a more vibrant finish which is good lol. Metallica take a little longer to dry. Figure turn on a fan and in about 3 minutes they're dry.
Ok, stupid question, but, i'm starting to get better at airbrushing, i feel,and i have been using tamyia paints, and i LOVE them!, the question i have is, is the "clear red" paint, along with all of the other "clear" colors, already have a "clear coat" in them, like, is it the same as a final top coat, i wouldnt have to put a "clear" top coat on my model, if i use one of the clear colors? hope this question doesnt sound too confusing.
You're correct; the clear coat, colored or not is the top coat. If you don't want a glossy look, you can throw matte clear or semi gloss over the colored clear
Thanks a whole bunch sir! I am really big into candy builds and this will help a lot down the road when i really practice. But would this same kind of technique work of you did a mirror chrome instead of mettalic colors?
So normally I use pre mixed airbrushing paints or use thinner to thin tamiya but I'm going to attempt to gold candy coat and doing a god gundam hyper mode custom. And I'm going to try to use 91% alchohol to airbrush ready my tamiya, (small jar) I know experience is trial and error to get consistency just right but jsik to start, you usually add enough to fill right to brim of jar?
Still a novice to airbrushing. I didnt notice any time gaps between when you did your base coats to clear coats, did you just time skip the video or is going into the next coat ok with paints like tamiyo?
have you tried mixing tamiya clear to make secondary colors? they all come out a certain murky color when i try so i was wondering if theres a brand of clear colors that can apply color mixing theories
Hey so when you base color with the gold and then preshade with the gunmetal. Do you think one could use a spray can gold instead to avoid cleaning and changing colors in the airbrush? Just wondering what the difference might be if you’ve tried it.
Thanks for the VERY AWESOME & EASY to Understand.. Just what i wnt to knw is, All Tamiya Arylic u mix it with Achohol ?? If i didn't have 91% Isopropyl Achohol, can i replace with Thinner X-20A and mix it the same way like u mix Achohol + Tamiya Arylic Color ?? And do you even use Primer 1st then after tht the Base Coat ?? Just tht wht i need to knw as Beginner..
Thank you for thus gray video. I have a 1957 Chevy Nomad model car that I will use your candy paint on. I will use the orange. Not sure of the base. Maybe the gold. I also have a car body that I don't need and will try an orange to yellow or a red to orange gradient on. Not sure how it will turn out since I want the gradient even on all sides.
Thanks for the reply. I have 3 or 4 questions. And ur answer would make a huge impact on the bike parts which i am about to paint. Trial part is done ,so i have 3 or 4 questions. Pls do answer. !!!!
Amazing tutorial! I love the red and about to do it myself. I was wondering, after spraying the tamiya clear red, do I still need to spray it with clear gloss (to seal), or will that be redundant (As the red clear does that job already. Thanks again!
The video comments never die lol! Im always around to answer questions 🙂. 35 psi for clear with a relatively quicker spray application, ill let you know on the nozzle size as i forget right now. You're welcome!
Thank you so much for this video!! really answered a lot of questions i have about painting. So if i use this technique on gunpla do i need to apply surfacer or primer first? or no need?
Great video! You made me want to go into airbrushing on my MG! Quick question, did you mix the metallic gold with the 91% alcohol? Possible to use any tamiya alcohol? Thanks in advance!
*why is my tamiya gloss x-22 not drying?* tamiya gloss is supposed to be rock hard, but my finish molds to my fingerprints like it's tacky i used: Grey mr. surfacer, tamiya gloss black 2:1, then tamiya gloss x-22 1:2
@@Curioventura thank you so much for an insanely fast reply. could i use my tamiya lacquer thinner ? (i don't have 91% but plenty of lacquer thinner) or do you greatly suggest using the 91%?
Thank you so much for this tutorial!! I did have one question, what about Tamiya Smoke, using this process will it just be a super shiny dark grey? Thanks again!!
What would you recommend top coating the candy finishes with? I just got in some alclad 2 aqua gloss clear since I heard it was good for metallics to retain the shine but every tutorial video I've seen doesn't cover top coating.
My red clear coat looks orange. What I’m I doing wrong? I noticed you didn’t use primer. I primed in black. Is that affecting to the extent to have the orange finished instead of the red? Please help me out
When brush painting with any metallics, use paints that are primarily for brush painting. Otherwise the metal flakes will not be uniform and tend to puddle
@@Curioventura how do you mix them? Do you use a just the clear coat as a base and then add another color to it? I just started and loved your video. Now im trying to duplicate these looks and i didn't have the colored clear coats. Thanks!!!!
Sometimes yes but you have to be careful mixing a solid into a clear as you'll make the clear solid if you use too much. Mostly I just mix clears. Thanks!
Thank you for the informative video! It was super helpful and detailed! I am building the tamiya ford gt and trying to use only spray cans. I like the look of the titanium gold and clear red (to imitate ford liquid red) that you did but I am not sure how it would look with spray cans. Do you have any tips or advice? Thanks!
Thank you! I'd say test the colors out on plastic spoons first and be sure to let your cans sit out in the sun for at least 20 minutes to build up the pressure and they'll spray nicer that way
I used non in this video and rarely use any in the first place unless I'm going from a dark color to light one in order to do less coats of the lighter color
Much appreciated! This is the only video I've seen that addressed candy preshading!
Thank you and im so glad this helped you!
Great vid man!! This was very informative and detailed. Man, this just made feel so much better about trying airbrush painting a gundam. That Red Warrior was just amazing with that color. Keep up the great stuff man.
Glad this helped and thank you!
I always wonder who are the people who give a video like this a dislike...
Cool video. Thanks.
People with a different opinion lol
Going to try this with a 1:24 scale motorcycle, thanks for the ideas...
Great step by step video.
Thanks!
That preshade with the gunmetal then red looks so sick. Thanks man, candy colors have way more potential than I thought
They do. They're a little tricky but worth mastering
Thanks mate 👍. I'm going to use your technique when I paint the car I'm building. Metallic gold base with metallic gun metal shading and candy red overall.
Your video was very inspiring. Thanks 😊
Thank you and that should look awesome!
That gold base is really an awesome idea, I never thought this would render so good at the end, wan't wait to try it by myself, thanks for the tips!
It definitely enriches colors differently. I hope it all works out great for you!
The Gold base is what makes it a Candy Apple instead of normal Candy. Basically Iron Man colors but his mix adds a real cool depth and richness over a standard Candy Apple. Mixing new colors is a fun and secondary hobby within the main hobby ;)
I can't wait to see this in person! Thank you again!
Thank you for the opportunity to build it for you and make this video possible!!!
Brilliant Video, mate!
You explained and showed so many techniques so quickly but explained perfect! This is like the perfect crash course for beginners in spray! Bless you my friend! This video earned you my subscription for life!
This is going to be soo helpful for the custom marvel figures im going to post videos of soon!!
Thank you so much for the kind words! I'll value your subscription for life as well!
is never late for a new sub! nice video
Truth lol thanks!
Thanks for tye great vid--fun tutorial to follow. Can't wait to give these techs a try
This is the best tutorial I've watched! It works like a charm! Thank you , look forward to view all your content and share with r/gunpla subreddit!
Thank you so much!
Thank you for making the video and allowing us to watch it as well keep up the awesome videos
Thank you!
I find just filling up the small cup like bit in the middle of Tamyia paints lids on the inside is just perfect for thinning the whole jar!
That works too!
Wut? One cup to thin whole jar? Jeez. Do you like to spray sandpaper?
I think he meant the whole lid....
@@Curioventura the wee round raised bit in the middle I got it off that Andy's headquarters video about how much he uses to thin the paint to a perfect spray! Its not much atoll about 5mil or something it looks like all it holds but go check his videos out it's on a few of his as Tamyia paints are like water as they are you don't need much!
Yeah if you're talking about the little clesr part under the lid, that's not enough man.
Great video, I just got into air brushing and wanted to learn exactly what you posted. Thanks. Subscribed!
Thanks and glad I could help!
This was very helpful. Thanks.
Glad it helped, thanks
Nice tips... thanks for sharing
Thank you!
magnificent! thanks dude for the awesome tutorial!
Thank you so much! Im glad it helped!
excellent video no messing about just what i needed to know
Thanks! I try to get right to the point lol
I managed to do a reasonable candy effect on a number of practice spoons, but the moment I moved on to Gunpla pieces, it all went to crap. It was like edges and corners were actively pushing away my paint, making pools everywhere. Then I tried another spoon and it went well again. Basically, as long as my Gundam is shaped like a spoon, I can candy coat; otherwise, no dice. I was using Mr Hobby lacquers for all layers, and a lower PSI to try to avoid blasting the clear paint everywhere and promote a glossier look.
Too high of pressure, too much paint, too slow of movement when spraying, paint is thinned too much or the surface you're spraying is not clean and has oils from your fingers on them. There's your list to check off lol
@@THEleatherface24 My pressure was roughly 12 PSI and I wore gloves throughout, so I don't think those are the problems - although candy coating videos have recommended differing levels, as high as 35 PSI, so I don't know what to think. Paint thinness or amount is probably it, but I'm not sure how to remedy that. It looked and felt like a milky consistency, really fluid but still able to leave paint on the side of the colour cup.
And I was doing multiple thin coats on my later pieces, after the single heavy coat in this video left me with massive puddling. My airbrush speed is fairly fast, faster than most of the videos I've seen anyway. If I spray as slowly as a lot of these guys are, then I end up with pooling with all kinds of paints, not just clears.
Just its most likely your paint is too thin but I'd recheck the list above until you find what it is. At the very least, you have multiple ideas now to troubleshoot with. Let me know what it is when you figure it out of which I'm sure you will. BTW, thats me but from another account of mine lol
SICK!👊🏼👍🏼
Very informative video Curioventura! I didn't even think to consider practicing painting with an airbrush using plastic spoons when I started out. Did you do anything to prepare the spoons like what you do with the plastic kits? I stopped short of fully getting into the hobby because I was afraid of messing up my kits (2 built HG kits, with a few MG and a PG kits sitting in boxes) with a bad paint job. I still have a lot of learning and practicing to do (when I find the time). Looking forward to more how to and tutorial videos in the future! Keep up the great work!
Thank you so much and im so happy this helped you! No i didnt prep the spoons at all but i never touched the parts that i painted with my bare hands either before painting them. I suggest you start with the spoons, then Cheap SD kits. There will be plenty more videos of different techniques to come so please stay tuned and share these vids😊
Thanks for the tip! I'll definitely practice airbrushing with spoons to start. SD kits don't interest me much, so I need to learn how to fix my building mistakes from the 2 HG 1/100 kits I have (ie. badly cut parts from sprues and covering seem lines). I'll definitely be tuning in for more vids like more painting and finishing techniques (the candy colors are definitely eye catching, so hopefully more videos on other finishes such as matte, metallics or a combination of both)!
Best video I've seen in a long time!!! Thanks boss!!!! Subscribbed!!
Thank you!!
Great video !! This video really helps me in my painting.
Thank you!!
Fun video. Great for if I ever get an airbrush. I'm getting ready to ruin a master grade Kampfer this summer in an attempt to candy coat with rattle cans.
How did it turn out?
Great tutorial there. Kinda blew my mind you didn't rely on gloss black to bring out the shine of the metallics.
Also, I might be doing my next project in clear blue, would you give some advice on some good choices of base metallics?
Thanks man and theres a lot of techniques that arent really necessary to get great results as many would swear on. Try tamiya aluminum for the base. Youll get some good vibrant blue out of that as the base
Would love to watch scribing tutorial from this channel, so informative.
Will do and thanks!
Will look forward to it :)
Man I wish you would do a follow up video. I want to see how you base coat and pre-shade on smaller pieces, and getting that awesome candy effect.
A follow up video isnt out of the question. Ill do one on the future :)
@@Curioventura Awesome! After watching this, I want to paint my Proto Zero using only candy effects. I look forward to future content.
@@Fr0sTy327 Awesome! Be sure to shoot me pics on Instagram when you're working on it!
Love the vid bro. I learned something new today just recently got into airbrushing my gundams
Awesome and thank you!
Same here. As soon as I had it open I knew I had to paint them.
I like the outcome with the gold based one... Will do that with my HG Sazabi... :)
Me encantaron tus consejos, te ganaste un seguidor más.
Thank you dude. Been confused over the whole pre shading thing for ages.
One question if I may. Are you using the base coats in place of primer?
Glad this helped you and yes
Very informative thanks
Thank you!
awesome toturial.. very nice.
Thank you!
Do you put a top coat to protect the paint? If so what do you use? I'm new to airbrushing, but this video helped so much! Thank you!
The tinted clear is the topcoat. Im so glad this helped you and thank you!
@@Curioventura thanks! Wasn't sure if the red clear coat would protect the paint too. For regular paints do you recommend a matte coating or clear coating, or gloss coating?
The coating is up to you and what you like. If its a flat coat, be sure not to touch it much with oily hands as it could stain the finish
Great videos, I needed this thank u..👍
Thank you!
Great video!
Thank you!
You could really benefit from a lapel (lavallier) mic. Then process the audio track to get your volume up. You can't just raise the volume, or it'll clip. There's couple of tutorial videos on my channel (not a plug) that show you how to give your voice a more broadcast (radio) quality. You could just process your audio without the lapel mic and you'd get a much better audio quality. A lapel mic would just bring the mic closer, so you'd eliminate some of the room echo from the audio track. Great video, very informative n some cool paint finish. Subbed thanks.
I actually bought and have just started using a Rhode Video Mic. I had a boya lavalleir mic that took a dump on me after 2 videos. Im self funded so ive been slowly getting the ancillary supplies to make better quality videos little by little. Ill check out your channel nonetheless and one can always benefit from those more experienced!
@@Curioventura Yeh, I use a Rode Mic too. If you use that Chains tutorial video on my channel (main page half way down), then your audio quality will jump right up. Don't forget to record 15 seconds of just room noise before every recording, so you can subtract that from the audio file in processing. On that video, there are links in the description where you can get the filters, and I also tell you how to install them.
@@NeonsStyleHD thanks again man
@@Curioventura However the content and your explanations are first rate.
nice tutorial
Thanks!
Thumnail gundam looks lit
Thanks dude!
Random and stupid question : is there a way to achieve this via hand painting? I feel more confident like that but I’ll be transitioning to airbrush soon
Ps: awesome video can’t wait to try
Never a stupid question lol. You can with brush paints but it will not look anywhere near as good. Thank you!
Wow so cool
Also will you do a video on the mg freedom 2.0
Subscribed. This video is really helpful and easy to understand. I only have one thing to confirm, did you thin the clear color the same way? Thank you.
Thanks for the sub and yes i did! Sorry i didnt clarify that!
@@Curioventura brilliant. I'll try this out soon. Hopefully it'll turn out great. Thanks!
I got a reasonably good result using a Tamiya gold spray can and applying the clear red with a brush. Now that I’m the proud owner of an airbrush I’l try this technique. Sorry the noob question, but do you tin also the transparent Tamiya color? Because in the video you are apparently using the color directly from the jar ;)
Spray cans do work for this technique but yes, airbrushing is what its meant for. Congrats on your new airbrush! A whole new world is open to you now! Yes I thinned the clear as well, same ratio as the other paints.
Great video! Thinking about painting an Exia with candy blue. Will titanium gold work well as a bass with clear blue?
Thank you! That would work great! You may have to do a coat or 2 more to get the shade of blue you want but itll be worth it
@@Curioventura ah okay, thanks for the reply! Will priming be necessary though? Still quite new to painting 😅
@@aioc9522 you can if you want. No harm there!
Some simple old alcohol :(
Here in 2020 buying Tamiya brand Thiner because Alcohol is more precious than Gold :(
You can use denatured alcohol from lowes or home depot but make sure you have extremely good ventilation and a good mask
@@Curioventura denatured alcohol has a pink tint to it, isn’t going to be a issue? Denatured alcohol is also including additives to make it unsuitable to human consumption, do you think these additives could stain or ruin the color?
Not sure what type you're using but I get mine at Lowes. Jts clear and you may want to look into that. It has no sugars such as in alcohol for human consumption which is a good thing.
Wow! I wanna make that red warrior now. I am a beginner but may I ask how you got the guns on the back to go up and how did you make the horns on it’s head? Which effect did you use on the red warrior (eg with the non metallic red base paint in the tutorial) and did you use metallic black for the black parts on it? Thanks a lot sorry for having so much questions 😅😅😅
Do it! They actually come like that from the kit if i recall correctly. The horns were 2 beam sabers that I heated, bent and carved. I did the non metallic base and pre-shaded with 2 reds and black. All flat so when the red clear goes on, it makes all of the base colors super rich and vibrant. Ask away! Thats what im here for!
Curioventura Thanks so much! I liked and subscribed! Would it be ok if I top-coated it with gloss and painted it with the gold+black on the outsides+clear red combo? As i am wondering how you get that nice shiny type of texture on the red warrior
Also did you panel line it? If so which did you use (eg tamiya accent wash)
Hi curio,
Longtime fan of your work. My question to you is do you always normally use acrylics to airbrush with? And why? I have heard acrylics have the best shiny clears. Cheers chris
Hello and thanks! Pretty much yes. I use them because they dry fast and allow me to work fast plus, I love the way they look.
Hello and thanks! Pretty much yes. I use them because they dry fast and allow me to work fast plus, I love the way they look.
Clearly a bit late but, how would I achieve this effect with darker colors like black? Would I have to use a deep purple?
You could do that. Black is the darkest you could go so youll have to use very dark grays, blues, purples etc. to get the effect
You could do that. Black is the darkest you could go so youll have to use very dark grays, blues, purples etc. to get the effect
I've been googling a loooooot but I still can't find the answer to one question. Do you need to varnish these paints or are they resilient enough on their own? I tried a glossy varnish over mine but it feels like it killed a bit of the shine.
Theyre good enough on their own.
Question: so do you mix the alcohol with the clear red also ? Awesome tips here sir 👍 thanx for sharing
Indeed I do and thanks!
Great video, thanks!
Video has taught me a lot, and it's definitely gotten me the urge to start making something really wicked. Quick question though,I have had it engrained in my head to always prime a model kit before doing anything paint related. But across all of this, I haven't seen any primer used. Do you prime? Do you think priming for this technique is a good idea?
You can. I normally just clean everything down with either alcohol or dishwasher soap and water, then I dont touch the areas to be painted again with bare hands so I dont get any oils or contaminants on the piece
Do you recommend thinning the tamiya paints as soon as I buy them, like you did on the video? Or will it mess anything up if I decide later to mix on a separate container, let's say tamiya gloss red and tamiya gloss blue tamiya acrylic paints if I already thinned the whole jar? Also is the ratio of thinner for metallic and regular Tamiya gloss colors the same ratio for tamiya clear gloss top coat? I bought Mr. color leveling thinner, is it the same ratio as the alcohol used on the video or less? And if I use Mr. Color leveling thinner, will it act the same as 91% isopropyl alcohol and dry fast in 2-5mins like 91% alcohol does? Thanks a lot man!
Lots of questions lol. They don't need to be thinned anytime soon. I have some unopened jars for years that are still just fine. If you're mixing pre thinned paints, make sure they are thinned the same and you should have no issue. Mixing new paint with prethinned will require you to thin the paint further. Can't say with the Mr. Color thinner. Try it on a little paint and see how it responds.
would the 1/144 duel gundam assaultshroud be a good first gundam?
Nope. The part counts a little high and theres a few leg pieces that could make you scratch your head lol. If you check out my Instagram feed way back , youll see build pics of one that I did.
@@Curioventura what about the RG RX-178 gundam mk-II
@@Curioventura or maybe the Rg freedom?
@@Curioventura By the way those are the coolest spoons ive ever seen
and i love the red warrior too
Awesome video, I started painting kits recently and have been struggling with candy effect.
Any reason you don't apply a gloss black base coat before the metallic color?
Do you know the pressure you are using even without a meter? I have been using 20 PSI to apply both the metallic and clear paints, but I'm not sure it's the right pressure.
Thanks!
Thanks! Because as you can clearly see in this video, its not necessary to do a black base coat all the time. 20 psi is perfect
awesome video! gonna try this on my Sazabi :) question though, which Gloss Black & Clear Gloss do you recommend?
Thank you! I normally use acrylics and Tamiya has never let me down.
Dope asl
You are awsame man！
So are you!
While I wait for my portable airbrush kit.. to arive Im looking for vids to get me started..
This looks like a good one so new paint + just a small smidge of alcohol to thin and mix and spray.. hmm can I use water?
And will this work with citadel paints?
I wouldn't use water with Tamiya paints. Citadel paints are meant for hand brushing, not air brushing
Very useful tutorial! What kind of top coat do you use to protect everything?
Thank you! I use Tamiya semi gloss clear. I use that mostly and yes, that was X-10 gunmetal 😉
@@Curioventura Thank you!!
do you use a mask when spraying tamiya paints?
Yup
Just curious, what are the benefits of spraying at 30 PSI? With Tamiya acrylics I generally hear people advise to thin 50:50 or so and spray at 15-20 psi.
Dries faster for me while still maintaining proper atomization of the paint but some prefer the lower psi. Just My preference really
Hey man, quick question, do you not prime your kits?? I'm new to this, and I know in alot of cases you're meant to but, is it easier not to?
Resin kits, yes. Regular polystyrene kits, sometimes. Ill mostly do it when I'm changing from a dark to a light color like red or black to white but that's so i dont blow tons of paint. As long as the surface is super clean and mildly sanded, you'll be fine with no primer
What is your timeframe from first layer to last? Many forums say wait a day between each type of colour or coat but it seems like you do this in one sitting? I'm looking to use tamiya gold leaf as a base. You think that'll work similar to the titanium gold? Thanks for the tutorial!
If you thin Tamiya paints with a 50/50 91% or more alcohol, the paint dries within minutes of not seconds. The gold leaf will give a more vibrant finish which is good lol. Metallica take a little longer to dry. Figure turn on a fan and in about 3 minutes they're dry.
@@Curioventura Thanks buddy!
Ok, stupid question, but, i'm starting to get better at airbrushing, i feel,and i have been using tamyia paints, and i LOVE them!, the question i have is, is the "clear red" paint, along with all of the other "clear" colors, already have a "clear coat" in them, like, is it the same as a final top coat, i wouldnt have to put a "clear" top coat on my model, if i use one of the clear colors? hope this question doesnt sound too confusing.
You're correct; the clear coat, colored or not is the top coat. If you don't want a glossy look, you can throw matte clear or semi gloss over the colored clear
ok cool! thank you very much!@@Curioventura
Anytime
Thanks a whole bunch sir! I am really big into candy builds and this will help a lot down the road when i really practice. But would this same kind of technique work of you did a mirror chrome instead of mettalic colors?
Im so glad this helped you! Yes, chrome paint bases will work as well but the color shifting wont be quite as dynamic.
one question, there's no issue with storing thinned paints for some period of time?
Ive stored them for months without use with no issues as long as they are mixed thoroughly before spraying them
@@Curioventura I see. Thanks
So normally I use pre mixed airbrushing paints or use thinner to thin tamiya but I'm going to attempt to gold candy coat and doing a god gundam hyper mode custom. And I'm going to try to use 91% alchohol to airbrush ready my tamiya, (small jar) I know experience is trial and error to get consistency just right but jsik to start, you usually add enough to fill right to brim of jar?
Yeah or just under it. The metallics i dont thing quite as much. A tad under the brim. Too thin and itll be quite opaque
@@Curioventura thanks 🤙
Good tutorial. I plan to do this on gundam red frame. Is addition clear coat needed or I can just use clear red as protective layer?
Metallic base would work well but a tinted clear is ok.
Still a novice to airbrushing. I didnt notice any time gaps between when you did your base coats to clear coats, did you just time skip the video or is going into the next coat ok with paints like tamiyo?
If you mix them with 91% isopropyl alcohol, they dry in about a minute to 2 minutes. Metallica dry in about 5
@@Curioventura that's pretty awesome actually. Thank you very much, I hope to see lots more good work from you.
Do you thin the clear red tamiya paint the same way as your paints ? Or just straight from the bottle into the airbrush?
Same as the rest of the paints; 50/50
have you tried mixing tamiya clear to make secondary colors? they all come out a certain murky color when i try so i was wondering if theres a brand of clear colors that can apply color mixing theories
Try food coloring
Great informative video. Just wanted to ask do you need to use primer?
All I did here was wipe the spoons down with alcohol before I painted them and you saw how they came out. You be the judge lol
Hey so when you base color with the gold and then preshade with the gunmetal. Do you think one could use a spray can gold instead to avoid cleaning and changing colors in the airbrush? Just wondering what the difference might be if you’ve tried it.
You could but dont expect it to look as good as actually airbrushing it.
Curioventura alright cool that’s what I figured, thanks for the response 🙏🏽✌🏽
Does it only work with clear colors
Yup
Thanks for the VERY AWESOME & EASY to Understand.. Just what i wnt to knw is, All Tamiya Arylic u mix it with Achohol ?? If i didn't have 91% Isopropyl Achohol, can i replace with Thinner X-20A and mix it the same way like u mix Achohol + Tamiya Arylic Color ?? And do you even use Primer 1st then after tht the Base Coat ?? Just tht wht i need to knw as Beginner..
If I may ask, would pre shading work if the tint was white? On energy weapons would it work or not?
It should in theory
Thank you for thus gray video. I have a 1957 Chevy Nomad model car that I will use your candy paint on. I will use the orange. Not sure of the base. Maybe the gold.
I also have a car body that I don't need and will try an orange to yellow or a red to orange gradient on. Not sure how it will turn out since I want the gradient even on all sides.
Practice practice practice!
Where is the instagram link ,i tried what u said and its satisfying
Just type curioventura in the search on Instagram. You'll find me lol
Thanks for the reply. I have 3 or 4 questions. And ur answer would make a huge impact on the bike parts which i am about to paint. Trial part is done ,so i have 3 or 4 questions. Pls do answer. !!!!
Amazing tutorial! I love the red and about to do it myself. I was wondering, after spraying the tamiya clear red, do I still need to spray it with clear gloss (to seal), or will that be redundant (As the red clear does that job already. Thanks again!
Thank you! Theres no need at apply anymore clear as yes, the red does the job as top coat
@@Curioventura thanks for the quick reply! learned so much from this. Definitely got a subscribe from me.
@@Curioventura If I wanted to panel line with the tamiya accent panel line, since its enamel, would that eat through the clear red coat?
Thank you!
Awesome vid! Just wanna ask if you applied a gloss top coat? If yes, how did you sand it?
Thanks! The tinted clear is the top coat. I didnt sand anything in this vid
@@Curioventura oh, gotcha! thanks man! more power to u!
Great video. Gonna necro this and ask about some specifics.
What PSI do you spray at for the clear coat vs the pre-shading? Nozzle size? Thanks!
The video comments never die lol! Im always around to answer questions 🙂. 35 psi for clear with a relatively quicker spray application, ill let you know on the nozzle size as i forget right now. You're welcome!
Thank you so much for this video!! really answered a lot of questions i have about painting. So if i use this technique on gunpla do i need to apply surfacer or primer first? or no need?
You're welcome and thanks for watching! Glad it helped! As far as primer, use it if you want
Which technique did you use for the figure shown at the end?
Great video! You made me want to go into airbrushing on my MG! Quick question, did you mix the metallic gold with the 91% alcohol? Possible to use any tamiya alcohol? Thanks in advance!
Thanks and im glad it helped! Yes itll work just as well!
*why is my tamiya gloss x-22 not drying?*
tamiya gloss is supposed to be rock hard,
but my finish molds to my fingerprints like it's tacky
i used: Grey mr. surfacer, tamiya gloss black 2:1, then tamiya gloss x-22 1:2
Mix it 1:1 with 90% Alcohol
@@Curioventura thank you so much for an insanely fast reply. could i use my tamiya lacquer thinner ? (i don't have 91% but plenty of lacquer thinner) or do you greatly suggest using the 91%?
My pleasure! Laqure thinner is not for acrylics which Tamiya is. Alcohol works best 👍🏼
@@Curioventura *THANK YOU*
Thank you so much for this tutorial!! I did have one question, what about Tamiya Smoke, using this process will it just be a super shiny dark grey? Thanks again!!
It just darkens the colors the more coats you lay on
What would you recommend top coating the candy finishes with? I just got in some alclad 2 aqua gloss clear since I heard it was good for metallics to retain the shine but every tutorial video I've seen doesn't cover top coating.
It should work just fine. I normally use Tamiya clear but Alclads awesome. Do the spoon sample and try it out. Lmk how it works for you
@@Curioventura Cool! Thanks for such a quick response
And also what's the number for the gun metal for the gold shading?
X10
My red clear coat looks orange. What I’m I doing wrong? I noticed you didn’t use primer. I primed in black. Is that affecting to the extent to have the orange finished instead of the red? Please help me out
So you sprayed clear red on top of the black base or a metallic?
Accidentally deleted you're reply, my bad. Keep Appling more light coats until you get the red shade you want. Just go with thin coats
so if did silver with a gunmetal edging id get a brighter clear coat?
When brush painting with any metallics, use paints that are primarily for brush painting. Otherwise the metal flakes will not be uniform and tend to puddle
awesome awesome video. thanks man!
is it possible to candy coat using tamiya spray cans?
Thank you and yes, it is!
Do you use primer and do you sand before painting?
Resin kits yes, regular kits, sometimes
Do you mix your clear and your color coats to create your colored clear coats? Or do you purchase them as colored clear coats?
Some I mix, some are out of the jar new
@@Curioventura how do you mix them? Do you use a just the clear coat as a base and then add another color to it? I just started and loved your video. Now im trying to duplicate these looks and i didn't have the colored clear coats.
Thanks!!!!
Sometimes yes but you have to be careful mixing a solid into a clear as you'll make the clear solid if you use too much. Mostly I just mix clears. Thanks!
Thank you for the informative video! It was super helpful and detailed! I am building the tamiya ford gt and trying to use only spray cans. I like the look of the titanium gold and clear red (to imitate ford liquid red) that you did but I am not sure how it would look with spray cans. Do you have any tips or advice? Thanks!
Thank you! I'd say test the colors out on plastic spoons first and be sure to let your cans sit out in the sun for at least 20 minutes to build up the pressure and they'll spray nicer that way
@@Curioventura Thanks for the response!
I'm new to painting gunpla, what kind of primer do you use?
I used non in this video and rarely use any in the first place unless I'm going from a dark color to light one in order to do less coats of the lighter color
Are these acrylic paints you used? Or enamel I’m still new to this and trying to get into painting!
Acrylics and awesome!
Curioventura thanks your crazy good at this!
Is that a clear yellow and clear orange over the gold??
Yup