From what I can tell, the 2014 Chrysler 200 3.6L 6 cylinder has two coolant temp sensors, one at the oil filter and one at the cylinder head. The one at the oil filter is the same as what I use in my video (Standard Motor part number TX195: amzn.to/3T80u8O). The one at the cylinder head is Standard Motor part number TX259: amzn.to/4cLHpjw This is best I can tell via RockAuto.com I hope that helps and thanks for watching.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage Thanks - sounds like a bit more difficult to change than what is in your video. That correct? Was considering doing this myself but concerned about the difficulty
Thanks for watching, Juan. Bottom line answer - I don't know a specific answer, sorry. Here's some troubleshooting I would do. 1. Is there enough coolant in the system? Make sure the overflow bottle has enough in it (between Min and Max) 2. When do you see the temp spikes? Totally random? Only when you're sitting in traffic? If it's happening when you're on the highway and you have enough coolant in the system, you should have enough air flow without fans to keep the coolant cool so it might be the sensor. If it only happens at low speeds, it might be 1 or both fans not running. Easy way to check the fans is let the vehicle run until it gets to operating temp. Once the thermostats open, the fans should kick on to cool the coolant. Watch to make sure both fans run and both run at the same speed. 3. Since it's normally working but sometimes overtemping a little, it sounds like your thermostats are working ok. But if one or both are starting to fail, maybe that'll do it. Since thermostats are more of a pain to replace (though I did make a video on doing it), I don't think I'd jump right away to doing that. I hope that helps a little. Good luck and I hope you figure it out!
I have a 2007 Chrysler Sebring, 2.4L. Radiator was leaking, so I swapped it with a new one. Filled with fresh coolant, no leaks anywhere. Prior to swapping radiator, everything worked fine! now, my temperature gauge will only climb to the 1/4 mark, when it should be at the 1/2 way mark. I have heat (somehow)... fans dont turn ON upper hose is warm (not hot) lower is cool coolant is not getting HOT , like it should! CHECK ENGINE light is ON now. I pulled plug to coolant temp sensor, and fans kicked ON! I put plug back on the sensor and fans shut OFF. Could it be my coolant temp sensor? A bad sensor would trip the Check engine light, right? A bad thermostat wouldnt trip the check engine light? Yes/no? I got the coolant temp sensor off, and heading to AZone for a new one. Just wondering what you thought, since youve owned this type of vehicle. Bugs me, knowing that everything was working just fine, with exception to the coolant leak, and now this happens all of a sudden.... Any input would be appreciated! I'll follow up w/ my results too!
Thanks for watching; here are some thoughts. Coolant temp sensor issues could affect your gauge reading, the fans running, and could lead to a check engine light. On these cars it was never clear to me if the gauge runs off the sensor that I mess with in this video or if there isn't some other sensor in the system that it's looking at. The fact that the fans kick on when you disconnect the sensor might be a car auto-response. If the car thinks the sensor is "failed" it might turn on the fans to do all it can to cool the coolant since it's not sure what the temperature is. The one thing the sensor doesn't do, though, is actually manage the fluid flow to the radiator. That's done through the mechanical thermostats. Even with a failed sensor, if both thermostats are working properly, you should have warm/hot fluid at the radiator (after it's run long enough to be at operating temperature) and the heater core. If you're getting heat from the heater core but not getting hot fluid to/from the radiator, my thought is that your thermostat is at least partially stuck closed, or not opening at all. But then I'd think that your engine temp would be going up because you're not getting coolant flowing to the radiator. You might try letting it idle for a good long time, or do some driving (close to home) to see if you can get the temp to go to half or above half on the gauge. With the heat on, you're using your cabin air as a way to cool that coolant off. Next step might be to replace both thermostats (or at least the main thermostat). It's possible that there was debris in the new radiator and it is jamming up a thermostat (or both). Long answer, not sure it helped, but looking forward to your report on the results. Good luck!
@ I was just watching your other video on changing the entire thermostat housing assembly , so I think that’s the next course of action for me. I can’t understand why everything worked just days ago, and all I did was swap the radiator and now all this other sht happened. Oh well. I just swapped the coolant temp sensor today, but my coolant hoses are still cool to the touch, and the temp gauge barely gets to 1/4 mark. My check engine light is still on. I believe the coolant temp sensor does control the fan operation, but if my coolant can’t get hot enough , then the fans won’t engage, so it’s GOTTA BE the damned thermostat. I am just gonna replace the whole housing and both thermostats. There’s a kit you can purchase , as you know. A single thermostat is $22, but the whole housing assembly kit with both thermostats is $30, so why not? If this doesn’t work, this car is going to the bottom of the river. Anyway, I truly appreciate the quick response. Many channel creators don’t bother to follow up with answers to viewer questions, so again, it’s appreciated. I will post updates, so maybe it’ll help the next guy.
@@ecto1996 Replacing both thermostats and the housing makes sense to me as well. Doing just 1 thermostat still requires most of those same steps so might as well just do the whole thing new since there's so little price difference. Coolant cost is the biggest expense! (I hate coolant.) I hear ya about 'bottom of the river.' This car was a real pain sometimes... I hope the repair goes well and no more problems for you. And glad to be able to at least give you (and others) my thoughts. Def. not a mechanic (disclaimer, etc.) but the whole point of the channel is for other DIYers to learn from those who've done it so I'm glad I'm able to follow up! And thanks for contributing to the channel as well.
@ I’m no mechanic, but I know how to turn a wrench. I’ve been working on cars since I was a kid, holding flashlights, fetching tools for my grandfather and uncles. Being with them for hours , helped me learn things, but I still need help sometimes. Biggest issue for me is throwing money at a car repair, spending hours on it, only to find that the problem still exists. Anyway, thanks for the help. Youre video is on this topic is probably the most detailed , and understandable on YT. I just ordered the part. Should arrive in a day or two. Thanks again
Yes, I believe the data from this sensor is what drives the computer to turn on the radiator fans. I didn’t research it in depth, though, because that’s not the problem I was trying to solve (temperature reading low on the dash).
I did not. The only thing I can think of to check is that the o-ring is in place and in good shape and that you got the correct part/size. I’m not sure if the sensor size is different between the 2.4L and 3.6L, for example.
Mine does this same thing , I've replaced this sensor several times actually I'm about to replace it today again . I can't figure out why its leaking around the sensor . I guess I'm gonna eventually replace the housing the sensor is in .
I've not personally had this code, so I don't know for sure, but here are my thoughts. The code is for the coolant temperature being "outside the normal range." To me, I think that would make sense since the car would know that it shouldn't be that warm at a cold start. If you had a stuck open thermostat, the temperature should read and stay low, not jump immediately to the quarter mark. (I'm assuming it's not 100 degrees outside, or that the car's been recently running, in which case quarter mark wouldn't be abnormal.) When you drive it, does the temp gauge ever change? Does it ever move past that quarter mark? Does it head up towards the H? I'm assuming you checked the coolant level and have a good amount of coolant in there. After the car is cold, with the car on but not running, does the temp still jump to the quarter mark? If it does, I'd think the issue is either with the sensor or the sending unit (if it's separate from the sensor - this is the case in some cars). You don't say which vehicle you're looking at but as long as you have coolant and the coolant is flowing, my first hunch would be the sensor and I'd try replacing that. Just keep in mind that it might NOT be the sensor and if the gauge shows you close to overheating, you should assume the temp gauge is right until you're POSITIVE that it's not correct (hope that makes sense). I hope that helps a little. Good luck and thanks for watching!
It could be a faulty sensor. It could also be your thermostat. If your thermostat is stuck closed, you won't get cooling from the radiator. Once your car is running and shows at operating temperature, carefully feel both the top and bottom hoses to the radiator. If there's coolant flow, both hoses should be hot. If they're not, you're not flowing hot coolant through the radiator and it's probably a thermostat problem. If both hoses are hot, it could be the sensor. Sensor is pretty cheap (so is thermostat). If you're not certain, start with sensor because you can replace it without draining the fluid. I'm not an expert mechanic, though, so use your own judgement (caveat, caveat). Good luck and I hope the fix is easy! Thanks for watching.
IIRC, the 2015 is pretty different from the early production 14s (I believe they changed the design mid-model year). There’s also a pretty good difference between the 2.4L (that I have) and the 3.6. That said, I’ve seen that most videos out there are for the later model 3.6 so you should be able to find some videos pretty easily. Sorry to not be much help. Good luck with your project though and thanks for watching.
As far as I can tell, it really just depends on which engine you have. If you have the 2.4L convertible (the "Conv Touring" model), this video and part (link in video description) should work for you. If you have the 3.6L V6 (the "Conv Limited" and "Conv S" models), it'll be a different part number and the sensor's surely in a different location. I think the general principle should be the same though - disconnect the wire harness, unthread the old one, thread in the new one. Thanks for watching, Michael.
Thanks for watching, Juan. From the quick research I did on RockAuto.com, it looks like the 2015 has a different thermostat housing that requires a temperature sensor that threads in vs. the quarter turn type sensor on my 2014. That said, the actual process should be the same. Buy the proper part for your vehicle, unthread the old one and thread in the new one. Since I'm not sure about the location of the 2015's thermostat housing, you might need to drain the coolant first - I'm not sure. I hope that helps a little. Good luck!
If the gauge shows it's running how, you should assume the gauge is correct until you're sure that it's wrong. Make sure you have coolant in the system, make sure your radiator fans are running when they should, make sure your thermostat opens. Check the thermostat by carefully touching the radiator hoses when the engine is at temperature (middle of the gauge or higher). The hoses should both be hot; if they're not, the thermostat(s) might be stuck closed. If everything's working the way it should, then it might be the temperature sensor. (if you want to just throw parts at it, the sensor isn't too expensive and is easy to change but the new sensor might read the same and that would tell you that you have a real overheating problem).
@@jaredjackson7526 I'm sorry to hear it! I don't have a lot of history dealing with actual overheating issues so have limited knowledge. When my Wrangler was overheating, the cause was because my electric fan was broken (relay died) and I needed to replace it. When your temperature is showing high, the fan(s) should be running on high. If they're not running when the temp gauge is up in "uh oh land," the fan is probably having issues - I'd probably go after that next. Might be some videos out there on troubleshooting the Chrysler 200 fans. And I'm sure you know that if you run your heater with the fan on high, that should help some with the engine coolant temp by dumping heat into the cabin. Hope that helps a little. Good luck!
Looking to do this repair on my 2014 6 cylinder 3.6L - can you send the link for that sensor?
From what I can tell, the 2014 Chrysler 200 3.6L 6 cylinder has two coolant temp sensors, one at the oil filter and one at the cylinder head. The one at the oil filter is the same as what I use in my video (Standard Motor part number TX195: amzn.to/3T80u8O). The one at the cylinder head is Standard Motor part number TX259: amzn.to/4cLHpjw
This is best I can tell via RockAuto.com
I hope that helps and thanks for watching.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage Thanks - sounds like a bit more difficult to change than what is in your video. That correct? Was considering doing this myself but concerned about the difficulty
Any advise on temp gauge occasionally reading slightly above middle line? Starting to happen pretty often.
Thanks for watching, Juan.
Bottom line answer - I don't know a specific answer, sorry.
Here's some troubleshooting I would do.
1. Is there enough coolant in the system? Make sure the overflow bottle has enough in it (between Min and Max)
2. When do you see the temp spikes? Totally random? Only when you're sitting in traffic? If it's happening when you're on the highway and you have enough coolant in the system, you should have enough air flow without fans to keep the coolant cool so it might be the sensor. If it only happens at low speeds, it might be 1 or both fans not running. Easy way to check the fans is let the vehicle run until it gets to operating temp. Once the thermostats open, the fans should kick on to cool the coolant. Watch to make sure both fans run and both run at the same speed.
3. Since it's normally working but sometimes overtemping a little, it sounds like your thermostats are working ok. But if one or both are starting to fail, maybe that'll do it. Since thermostats are more of a pain to replace (though I did make a video on doing it), I don't think I'd jump right away to doing that.
I hope that helps a little. Good luck and I hope you figure it out!
I have a 2007 Chrysler Sebring, 2.4L. Radiator was leaking, so I swapped it with a new one. Filled with fresh coolant, no leaks anywhere. Prior to swapping radiator, everything worked fine!
now, my temperature gauge will only climb to the 1/4 mark, when it should be at the 1/2 way mark.
I have heat (somehow)...
fans dont turn ON
upper hose is warm (not hot)
lower is cool
coolant is not getting HOT , like it should!
CHECK ENGINE light is ON now.
I pulled plug to coolant temp sensor, and fans kicked ON!
I put plug back on the sensor and fans shut OFF.
Could it be my coolant temp sensor? A bad sensor would trip the Check engine light, right?
A bad thermostat wouldnt trip the check engine light? Yes/no?
I got the coolant temp sensor off, and heading to AZone for a new one. Just wondering what you thought, since youve owned this type of vehicle. Bugs me, knowing that everything was working just fine, with exception to the coolant leak, and now this happens all of a sudden....
Any input would be appreciated! I'll follow up w/ my results too!
Thanks for watching; here are some thoughts.
Coolant temp sensor issues could affect your gauge reading, the fans running, and could lead to a check engine light. On these cars it was never clear to me if the gauge runs off the sensor that I mess with in this video or if there isn't some other sensor in the system that it's looking at. The fact that the fans kick on when you disconnect the sensor might be a car auto-response. If the car thinks the sensor is "failed" it might turn on the fans to do all it can to cool the coolant since it's not sure what the temperature is.
The one thing the sensor doesn't do, though, is actually manage the fluid flow to the radiator. That's done through the mechanical thermostats. Even with a failed sensor, if both thermostats are working properly, you should have warm/hot fluid at the radiator (after it's run long enough to be at operating temperature) and the heater core. If you're getting heat from the heater core but not getting hot fluid to/from the radiator, my thought is that your thermostat is at least partially stuck closed, or not opening at all.
But then I'd think that your engine temp would be going up because you're not getting coolant flowing to the radiator. You might try letting it idle for a good long time, or do some driving (close to home) to see if you can get the temp to go to half or above half on the gauge. With the heat on, you're using your cabin air as a way to cool that coolant off.
Next step might be to replace both thermostats (or at least the main thermostat). It's possible that there was debris in the new radiator and it is jamming up a thermostat (or both).
Long answer, not sure it helped, but looking forward to your report on the results. Good luck!
@ I was just watching your other video on changing the entire thermostat housing assembly , so I think that’s the next course of action for me. I can’t understand why everything worked just days ago, and all I did was swap the radiator and now all this other sht happened. Oh well.
I just swapped the coolant temp sensor today, but my coolant hoses are still cool to the touch, and the temp gauge barely gets to 1/4 mark.
My check engine light is still on.
I believe the coolant temp sensor does control the fan operation, but if my coolant can’t get hot enough , then the fans won’t engage, so it’s GOTTA BE the damned thermostat.
I am just gonna replace the whole housing and both thermostats. There’s a kit you can purchase , as you know.
A single thermostat is $22, but the whole housing assembly kit with both thermostats is $30, so why not?
If this doesn’t work, this car is going to the bottom of the river.
Anyway, I truly appreciate the quick response. Many channel creators don’t bother to follow up with answers to viewer questions, so again, it’s appreciated.
I will post updates, so maybe it’ll help the next guy.
@@ecto1996 Replacing both thermostats and the housing makes sense to me as well. Doing just 1 thermostat still requires most of those same steps so might as well just do the whole thing new since there's so little price difference. Coolant cost is the biggest expense! (I hate coolant.)
I hear ya about 'bottom of the river.' This car was a real pain sometimes...
I hope the repair goes well and no more problems for you.
And glad to be able to at least give you (and others) my thoughts. Def. not a mechanic (disclaimer, etc.) but the whole point of the channel is for other DIYers to learn from those who've done it so I'm glad I'm able to follow up! And thanks for contributing to the channel as well.
@ I’m no mechanic, but I know how to turn a wrench. I’ve been working on cars since I was a kid, holding flashlights, fetching tools for my grandfather and uncles. Being with them for hours , helped me learn things, but I still need help sometimes.
Biggest issue for me is throwing money at a car repair, spending hours on it, only to find that the problem still exists.
Anyway, thanks for the help. Youre video is on this topic is probably the most detailed , and understandable on YT.
I just ordered the part. Should arrive in a day or two.
Thanks again
Howwww….?when I do mine the part that’s supposed to lock in sit on top the lip where it lock in
Is that sensor change for the radiator fans to work?
Yes, I believe the data from this sensor is what drives the computer to turn on the radiator fans. I didn’t research it in depth, though, because that’s not the problem I was trying to solve (temperature reading low on the dash).
@@CarbonsDIYGarageis that the p0128? Did it resolve your issue?
What about when I have the AC on and then the car starts over heat and I revved a little bit and it comes right back down
Same issue.
Did you ever have a problem with coolant coming out of the sensor once replaced even when it’s locked in place?
I did not. The only thing I can think of to check is that the o-ring is in place and in good shape and that you got the correct part/size. I’m not sure if the sensor size is different between the 2.4L and 3.6L, for example.
Mine is leaking from the top of the unit. Not sure why. Doesn’t even look like it’s coming out from the sensor area. Might just take it in.
@@brettkremer421 Oof. Sorry to hear it - I don't have any ideas on that one...
@@brettkremer421did you ever find out why that was happening?
Mine is doing the same thing..
Mine does this same thing , I've replaced this sensor several times actually I'm about to replace it today again . I can't figure out why its leaking around the sensor . I guess I'm gonna eventually replace the housing the sensor is in .
When I start my car my temp gauge is already on the quarter mark, could this cause that? I'm getting a p2181 code.
I've not personally had this code, so I don't know for sure, but here are my thoughts. The code is for the coolant temperature being "outside the normal range." To me, I think that would make sense since the car would know that it shouldn't be that warm at a cold start. If you had a stuck open thermostat, the temperature should read and stay low, not jump immediately to the quarter mark. (I'm assuming it's not 100 degrees outside, or that the car's been recently running, in which case quarter mark wouldn't be abnormal.)
When you drive it, does the temp gauge ever change? Does it ever move past that quarter mark? Does it head up towards the H?
I'm assuming you checked the coolant level and have a good amount of coolant in there.
After the car is cold, with the car on but not running, does the temp still jump to the quarter mark?
If it does, I'd think the issue is either with the sensor or the sending unit (if it's separate from the sensor - this is the case in some cars). You don't say which vehicle you're looking at but as long as you have coolant and the coolant is flowing, my first hunch would be the sensor and I'd try replacing that.
Just keep in mind that it might NOT be the sensor and if the gauge shows you close to overheating, you should assume the temp gauge is right until you're POSITIVE that it's not correct (hope that makes sense).
I hope that helps a little. Good luck and thanks for watching!
I'm over heating. Could it be a faulty sensor. Full rad, no leaks.
It could be a faulty sensor. It could also be your thermostat. If your thermostat is stuck closed, you won't get cooling from the radiator. Once your car is running and shows at operating temperature, carefully feel both the top and bottom hoses to the radiator. If there's coolant flow, both hoses should be hot. If they're not, you're not flowing hot coolant through the radiator and it's probably a thermostat problem. If both hoses are hot, it could be the sensor. Sensor is pretty cheap (so is thermostat). If you're not certain, start with sensor because you can replace it without draining the fluid.
I'm not an expert mechanic, though, so use your own judgement (caveat, caveat). Good luck and I hope the fix is easy! Thanks for watching.
What about 200s 3.6 2015
IIRC, the 2015 is pretty different from the early production 14s (I believe they changed the design mid-model year). There’s also a pretty good difference between the 2.4L (that I have) and the 3.6.
That said, I’ve seen that most videos out there are for the later model 3.6 so you should be able to find some videos pretty easily. Sorry to not be much help. Good luck with your project though and thanks for watching.
Will this work for a 2014 convertible?
As far as I can tell, it really just depends on which engine you have. If you have the 2.4L convertible (the "Conv Touring" model), this video and part (link in video description) should work for you. If you have the 3.6L V6 (the "Conv Limited" and "Conv S" models), it'll be a different part number and the sensor's surely in a different location. I think the general principle should be the same though - disconnect the wire harness, unthread the old one, thread in the new one.
Thanks for watching, Michael.
I had the coolant sensor replaced and check engine light still on went back to auto zone and it’s still reading the same thing
On the sheet AutoZone gave you what did it say? Did it say replace engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT)?
@@beto3214015 currently having that problem
Very helpful, thank you!
I'm glad it helped. Thanks for watching! If you haven't and if you're willing, a thumbs up on the video is always helpful.
will this work for a 2015?
Thanks for watching, Juan. From the quick research I did on RockAuto.com, it looks like the 2015 has a different thermostat housing that requires a temperature sensor that threads in vs. the quarter turn type sensor on my 2014.
That said, the actual process should be the same. Buy the proper part for your vehicle, unthread the old one and thread in the new one. Since I'm not sure about the location of the 2015's thermostat housing, you might need to drain the coolant first - I'm not sure.
I hope that helps a little. Good luck!
@@CarbonsDIYGarage love your vids and thank you! Bless you with more success!
@@juanestrada6585 Thanks very much. Best wishes on your projects as well!
What if it’s running hot?
If the gauge shows it's running how, you should assume the gauge is correct until you're sure that it's wrong. Make sure you have coolant in the system, make sure your radiator fans are running when they should, make sure your thermostat opens. Check the thermostat by carefully touching the radiator hoses when the engine is at temperature (middle of the gauge or higher). The hoses should both be hot; if they're not, the thermostat(s) might be stuck closed. If everything's working the way it should, then it might be the temperature sensor.
(if you want to just throw parts at it, the sensor isn't too expensive and is easy to change but the new sensor might read the same and that would tell you that you have a real overheating problem).
@@CarbonsDIYGarage thank you so much
Changed the sensor and it still overheating when given gas over time. In your opinion what could that be and what should be the next step?
@@jaredjackson7526 I'm sorry to hear it! I don't have a lot of history dealing with actual overheating issues so have limited knowledge. When my Wrangler was overheating, the cause was because my electric fan was broken (relay died) and I needed to replace it.
When your temperature is showing high, the fan(s) should be running on high. If they're not running when the temp gauge is up in "uh oh land," the fan is probably having issues - I'd probably go after that next. Might be some videos out there on troubleshooting the Chrysler 200 fans.
And I'm sure you know that if you run your heater with the fan on high, that should help some with the engine coolant temp by dumping heat into the cabin.
Hope that helps a little. Good luck!
The bottom hose is not hot but the top one is could it be my thermostat? The heat level is right below half