Відео

@@fredmeyer3063 I did not have any issues with belt squeal. Avoiding getting coolant on the belt if you can always sounds like a wise idea though. On our Subaru, I have had issues with belt squeal but that was because I didn’t tighten the tension enough. A bit more tension and the squeal stopped. So if yours is squealing, try adding a little more tension on the belt (but obviously not TOO much). Thanks for watching!

@@CarlosBa3 Muchas gracias. Gracias por ver el vídeo.

@@shmooperdooper It’s been a great fix for our rs, especially since new ones are super hard to come by. Thanks for the feedback on the videos. The random tips are my prime motivation for sharing; thanks for watching.

@@jasonscharf97tj Thanks! Hopefully it helps a few folks out.

@@maverickforever Great question! The only answer I know is “not 25 years.” 😁 Seems like something that should somehow be inspected regularly but I don’t know how you could without a borescope. Maybe if you remove it from the Jeep and in some good lighting you can flex it enough to see if it’s come apart?

@@CarbonsDIYGarage 😂, yes it needs. Anyways your video helps a lot to all of us who have this double cardan which is quite tough to maintain. You made it so clear. Regards

@@maverickforever Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

@@Millennial_Dividend_Investor Glad the video helped you out. Thanks for watching.

@@bigtex144 Great tips. Thanks, and thanks for watching.

Glad the video could help! Thanks for watching.

@@santiagojimenez8912 Thanks for watching and good luck with the repair!

If your car stalls when your Air Bag light comes on, it sounds like you have a bigger electrical problem than just a sensor coming unplugged, maybe a loose wire somewhere. I don't think the trick in this video will help you, unfortunately.

@@HapPap81 Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

@@mikefowler9438 You’re actually the first person, after over 200 videos, to point out my excellent use of cutting edge Windows 7 era free editing software for my content. 😂 Should we coin it as some type of retro styling? Thanks for watching, Mike!

From what I can tell, the 2014 Chrysler 200 3.6L 6 cylinder has two coolant temp sensors, one at the oil filter and one at the cylinder head. The one at the oil filter is the same as what I use in my video (Standard Motor part number TX195: amzn.to/3T80u8O). The one at the cylinder head is Standard Motor part number TX259: amzn.to/4cLHpjw This is best I can tell via RockAuto.com I hope that helps and thanks for watching.

@@CarbonsDIYGarage Thanks - sounds like a bit more difficult to change than what is in your video. That correct? Was considering doing this myself but concerned about the difficulty

Every modern car radiator should have a drain valve on it. Where it's located and what it exactly looks like will vary. It should be at the lowest point of the radiator, though, probably by the coolant hose at the bottom of the radiator. If you search for the valve/petcock for your particular year/make/model, you can probably find a picture of what to look for. Good luck! Thanks for watching.

Yes. That's why I ordered the part off eBay (link in video description). You provide your VIN and they'll flash it for you before they send it. Thanks for watching.

@@paulsalas3133 Yes. Both work with iPhone. Thanks for watching.

@@dylweezy117 Yes, that’s right. Thanks for watching.

the UEL ones that is

That’s exactly what we did and it sounds great! Video here: ua-cam.com/video/7TCIZXHluMY/v-deo.html Thanks for watching.

@@jasonscharf97tj Awesome! Congrats, glad the video helped.

That's awesome - good to hear that it worked on the '19 as well and that the video was helpful. Thanks for watching, Colin.

Excellent! I'm glad you found it, Alex. Thanks for watching. If you don't mind, consider giving the video a thumbs up.

​@@CarbonsDIYGarageI certainly will!

Thanks for watching, Richard. Update from January 2022: I installed this new TCM in June 2021. I went "problem free" until October 2021 - almost long enough to convince myself it was fixed. I cleared the codes and it behaved normally again. I'd pretty much at that point decided I'd just keep a code reader handy and when it does this, just clear the codes and it should resolve the problem for a while. In other words, just live with it. Unfortunately, the car got wrecked (other driver's fault) in December 2021 so we'll never really know if I'd have been able to actually solve this problem. So, sorry, nope - it didn't fix it in the long term. Good luck with yours!

Did you get P2544 and P0700 codes aoong with u0073? I get no start, no crank, no fuel, no abs, no traction control then it'll be fine. Thanks again.

@@richardgray742 I was getting U0100, U0073, and P0700. No P2544.

@@UntalentedNobody Yeesh. Certainly living up to that Just Empty Every Pocket brand name…

@CarbonsDIYGarage yeah I have it narrowed down to coil, crankshaft sensor, pcm or bad wiring. Cleaned the engine compartment yesterday to see what was what.

I'm pretty sure there's a little lip at the end of the arm that, when the lever is pushed all the way in, will drop down and basically lock the lever in place so it can't easily be removed. I don't see a good/easy way to slip a little screwdriver in there to try to lift that little arm up to 'unlock' it. I think the only option is probably to use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull (hard?) to get it out and hope the little plastic arm doesn't break? Or maybe run a longer wood/drywall screw into the middle (there's a little hole) and then use pliers to pull out on the screw? The screw method would have you pulling from the center so that might work better. If the little lever arm breaks, you can probably push it all the way through/into the a/c box (it might even drop out the floor vent) but then you've also broken that lever and need to buy a new one. Not great answers; might give you ideas, though. Thanks for watching the video; can you thumbs up it if it's earned it? (maybe even subscribe?)

@@ForceBuilt Thanks so much, Steve. Congrats to you and the awesome success with your channel, too!

Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching! If you haven't, and if you're so inclined, feel free to hit the thumbs up on the video (or subscribe!). Both really help with channel growth.

Excellent. Thanks for watching!

@@bobsansmal I totally agree! I’m sure they made the change either to prevent under-informed DIYers from wrecking the transmission, or to drive more people to the dealerships to get their service (likely the latter). I’m glad the video helped; thanks for watching.

@@chimborazo Check out this video at about the 10:40 mark. Thanks for watching and good luck with the repair. ua-cam.com/video/aZWBjouDPuw/v-deo.htmlsi=4KltKA_Y1kDotylA

@johnreed7029 $71 each!? That's highway robbery. The link in the video description takes you to the parts I used, off Amazon. $25 total for both the intake and the exhaust! I don't have the car anymore, but for as long as I owned the car, we had no troubles with these replacement actuators. With respect to your question, I don't personally remember screens on the end. If you click the link for the parts in the video description (amzn.to/4fuUxwa) and look at the photos and the video, best I can tell there are no screens in the ends/bottoms of either intake or exhaust. Thanks for watching and good luck.

Thanks, and thanks for watching!

@@jasonscharf97tj Thanks, Jason!

I'm glad it helped. Thanks for watching! If you haven't and if you're willing, a thumbs up on the video is always helpful.

@@dennismilton5348 Momma happy is the most important bit! Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching, Dennis.

@@williamoshaughnessy6529 Oh man! Previous Owner did you dirty! Good luck. Thanks for watching.

@@dylweezy117 You got this! Thanks for watching. If it earned it, please consider giving the video a 👍🏻 and/or sub to the channel.

@@theweisbecks Yes, indeed. Thanks for watching.

@@TurkeyByrd You need CarPlay on your vehicle’s radio for it to work. Thanks for watching.