I'm concerned about those zip-lines holding long term on the coolant lines- although you did a great job welding on the tabs- but adel clamps do the same thing much more securely fwiw - might look into those if the zip ties fail. Glad to see you back on the build!
Mike, to bore or ream out that hole, split a 5 or 6mm metal rod/dowel and cut a strip of abbrasive paper. Fold the paper in half and slide into the split then fold it around the rod. Put that in the drill bit and it will quickly open up the diameter for you. It won't apply too much rotational pressure so the vice grips will hold. It's like a flap sanding wheel but only 2 flaps. Love the channel as I always tell you. Great stuff.
Great to see you back on this Mike. I probably would have tried shaving a bit off the diameter of the bolt rather than trying to make the joint hole bigger, but I don't know how far off it was. Keep up the progress 👍
When you’re drilling, hard metal services such as that the only way to go as well. The cobalt bit carbide won’t cut it believe it or not an HHS which is high-speed steel will not do it. You need a cobalt bit.😳
I miss this car! You know what? There’ s things I see underneath that I don’t remember, so I might have to go back to the beginning! Good job, great to watch!
Make a new turn barrel rod. I have an EJ20 in a VW Thing and did a similar alternator mod. Two different sized heims to picknup the alternator and the block. They sell relocation mounts instead of hacking up the original. Make sure you use 1 left handed heim and 1 right handed heim or you can't adjust the tension.
So for your coolant lines routing up then back down in the fender well you will end up with really bad air pockets and a nightmare to bleed you’ll need some kind of pressure bleed up top ask Mike from stanceworks I know he went through the same issue with the Ferrari
Due to those coolant lines in the wheel arches and maybe some others in the system you will need to use an airlift to put the system in a vacuum and fill the system. Good to see the project moving forward, looking good.
Those top coolant line are inlets so they need to get water from the radiator directly. The lower one is the outlet (that's why the thermostat is there). In my opinion, add a secondary water pump in between the coolant engine outlet and the radiator/s. Or just do a guided tunnel for the air to blast the radiator/s and so for venting the hot air out. This way will help cool the coolant faster.
I think you're still going to want a belt tensioner. The belt is going to stretch over time and I wouldn't be surprised if you threw it the first time you get into the throttle. Cars beautiful still.
For most of us mere mortals, just managing to buy a dream air-cooled P-car would stretch the finances to the breaking point. Add to that a Porsche engine rebuild…ain’t gonna happen. That’s why I’ve long thought a 912 with an NA EJ22 would be perfect. Simple, inexpensive 50% power increase and cheap rebuild costs. This build, of course, takes that concept into a different realm, but still way cheaper than a competitive Porsche 6 build, right?
so you mean to tell me, when you open the rear lid, the first thing you see is the alternator sitting right there on top of everything? who in their right mind designs a car like that? 🙂
How far is the back of the engine from the fire wall? I also plan on doing a project like this in the future and would like to start a wiring harness first.
Incredible artist you are.
"Love your body Larry" huh? Fletch? Yes I always watch till the end.
Yeah I drop some Easter eggs now and then. :)
The coffee run scene was great 😂😂
World class editing. :)
I'm concerned about those zip-lines holding long term on the coolant lines- although you did a great job welding on the tabs- but adel clamps do the same thing much more securely fwiw - might look into those if the zip ties fail. Glad to see you back on the build!
Mike, to bore or ream out that hole, split a 5 or 6mm metal rod/dowel and cut a strip of abbrasive paper. Fold the paper in half and slide into the split then fold it around the rod. Put that in the drill bit and it will quickly open up the diameter for you. It won't apply too much rotational pressure so the vice grips will hold. It's like a flap sanding wheel but only 2 flaps. Love the channel as I always tell you. Great stuff.
Kind of like an inner sanding barrel?
Nice idea! A little Dremel sanding drum can be ideal for this sorta stuff too 👌
@@air_cooled_andy that's true but the flexible 'paper' is easier to control to keep the inner walls parallel.
@@RQCK0N It's not that hard to buy another rod end with the needed sized holes. Jeg's has them by the thousands. Mix and match for 5 bucks.
Good to see the BB in stall no. 1. The only way to make the goals. Rock on.
Great to see you back on this Mike. I probably would have tried shaving a bit off the diameter of the bolt rather than trying to make the joint hole bigger, but I don't know how far off it was. Keep up the progress 👍
When you’re drilling, hard metal services such as that the only way to go as well. The cobalt bit carbide won’t cut it believe it or not an HHS which is high-speed steel will not do it. You need a cobalt bit.😳
I miss this car! You know what? There’ s things I see underneath that I don’t remember, so I might have to go back to the beginning! Good job, great to watch!
Nice to see that you are back on the EJ30 setup, keep up the good work
This car is an absolute legend! Can't wait to see rip in it.
Make a new turn barrel rod. I have an EJ20 in a VW Thing and did a similar alternator mod. Two different sized heims to picknup the alternator and the block. They sell relocation mounts instead of hacking up the original. Make sure you use 1 left handed heim and 1 right handed heim or you can't adjust the tension.
I've already done it. It works great. Why would I do it again?
That coolant line is awesome. Great job routing it!
Cant wait til this is up and running... so clean Mike!
Getting there mate. Not long now. I can see we are going to be cramming in that last week before Rennsport :D
So for your coolant lines routing up then back down in the fender well you will end up with really bad air pockets and a nightmare to bleed you’ll need some kind of pressure bleed up top ask Mike from stanceworks I know he went through the same issue with the Ferrari
Due to those coolant lines in the wheel arches and maybe some others in the system you will need to use an airlift to put the system in a vacuum and fill the system. Good to see the project moving forward, looking good.
Keep going Mike!!!! Bummed I missed the live boadcast! Cheers!
Those top coolant line are inlets so they need to get water from the radiator directly. The lower one is the outlet (that's why the thermostat is there).
In my opinion, add a secondary water pump in between the coolant engine outlet and the radiator/s.
Or just do a guided tunnel for the air to blast the radiator/s and so for venting the hot air out. This way will help cool the coolant faster.
I have a secondary water pump ready to go.
Great video as always, Mike. High 🖐🏾 from the UK.
brilliant video!
Michael Bolt-in 😆👌
I think you're still going to want a belt tensioner. The belt is going to stretch over time and I wouldn't be surprised if you threw it the first time you get into the throttle. Cars beautiful still.
I mean… The Porsche does not have a belt tensioner.
@@rennch. I may be totally wrong. Guess we'll see.
I feel like that's going to be the case for a lot of things on this car, lol
@@rennch. Best way to learn
For most of us mere mortals, just managing to buy a dream air-cooled P-car would stretch the finances to the breaking point. Add to that a Porsche engine rebuild…ain’t gonna happen. That’s why I’ve long thought a 912 with an NA EJ22 would be perfect. Simple, inexpensive 50% power increase and cheap rebuild costs. This build, of course, takes that concept into a different realm, but still way cheaper than a competitive Porsche 6 build, right?
Those lines fit up great! Getting so close to dyno time 😬
Why didn’t you just take a Dremel with a grinding bit to open up the inside diameter 🤔
Do you think a Heli Coil may have worked on the block to reduce the thread size so it would fit the heim joint?
Yea but I couldn't find em!
Nice scooter- but i think it would be not allowed here in Germany. And we need numberplates for these things.
Bummer!
I want that scooter but I can’t afford one haha
so you mean to tell me, when you open the rear lid, the first thing you see is the alternator sitting right there on top of everything? who in their right mind designs a car like that? 🙂
Porsche. They just put a tan in front of it.
How far is the back of the engine from the fire wall? I also plan on doing a project like this in the future and would like to start a wiring harness first.
Did you built the EZ30R motor at least? If no, it will fail in short time 😂
Not internsls yet. But I'm running E85 and very low boost until I do.
@@rennch. E85 won’t save you. It’s the cylinder pressure that breaks these motors. The EZ30’s bottom end is very *weak.*
Trust me that I've been having conversations with some people smarter than I for three years about this.
Put a helicoil in that hole to reduce the size.
That was my original idea, but I couldn't find them! They are hiding somewhere in my garage.
Scooter ad. $$$$$$
I wish.
I like how he pointed out some of the unfavorable parts as well. Maybe they’ll address them in an update.
Get it back out to SEMA
I will!
👏👍🏻🍺
Sacrilege 🫣
Blasphemy. Pay attention.