Great video... just one point about galvanized screws and brass... while they are great for the blocking I would only use stainless steel screws for mounting the brass valve and elbow... galvanized = zinc . Zinc and brass copper have a very high corrosion potential so the zinc will turn to powder over time leaving you with bare steel. Most valves come with stainless steel screws in the package.
A good video with some good information. 1. Moen and pretty much every manufacturer recommend a copper line between the valve and the tub spout. The reason being is that most 1/2” pex is a smaller internal diameter and doesn’t supply enough pressure to keep the tub spout from dribbling water while the shower is on. Upsizing the water supply lines to the valve and to the tub to 3/4” pex will alleviate that problem. 2. I looked at that style of tub spout where the tub spout slides over over the copper line on then a set screw holds it in place. I decided I didn’t care for that as I was concerned about future leaks and don’t feel it is very secure. I opted for copper pipe that threads into the tub spout. In my opinion it way more secure and much less likely to leak. These are of course my opinion and yes..... I know what they say about opinions. 😊😊 Anyone have any thoughts regarding my opinion?
Something to keep in mind, if the branch going out the top of the mix valve to the shower head isn't long enough, you'll have water leak out the shower head even if the stopper to the tub spout is open. It has to do with how much pressure you have in your lines. Sometimes there's a bit more water in the lines that can come out of the tub spout so it'll want to go up that too pipe. If it's long enough, the water stack gets heavy enough to push back down and prevent it from spilling out the top. Just go higher, rather than lower on your shower head. Source: am not a plumber, I'm a carpenter. But I have seen this happen on 2 jobs before and asked a plumber how to stop it.
@@KyCellRepairI wonder if you could expand the pex from ½" PEX to ¾" PEX right above the valve to fix it. Obviously it would be best to put the shower head higher, but there are tons of reasons why people would have to put it lower.
Awesome info. It is difficult finding vids on unique circumstances. I have a very similar setup and my biggest issue was determining the depth of setting fixtures with a tub surround. The installation instructions never seem to be set for my conditions. Thanks!
Great Video! Question for you though. How do you know the depth to set the valve in the studs? So you have the correct distance to account for backer board & tile? Thanks!
Great video. I have on question. I have a tub shower diverter (pull up the little knob, which we never use). I am not a plumber, and dont want to open wall up. My existing shower has a one know cw/ccw hot cold handle. My question is this...d I need to install the posi temp shower...and if not, what will be the ramifications. This is a quest room, and we dont use frequently, and we really have not noticed a difference in pressure or temperature when using both master and quest shower. So, DO i need to install the posit temp. (its a MOEN)
Great video-I’m in the process of a complete bathroom renovation and have been using many of your guides (VERY useful-thank you!). Would love to see a video of finishing this bath over that valve (I’m using the same one). Also, do you have any tips to help get the valve to the correct depth (ie not too deep, not too shallow)?
Thanks for the video! I got one question though: the valve ports have IPS (straight) threads. Those are not designed to seal on the thread, they usually use a washer or an O-ring. You used Teflon tape on the fittings, and lots of it, so I assume the fittings have NPT (tapered) threads. You made them watertight, however I wonder if this method is reliable enough for a walled-in inaccessible installation.
The crimps rings were practically flush to the brass fittings. They should be 1/4" away from the flange. I guess that's why you guys became experts in pressure testing. Burned a few times with bad crimps possibly ? I might crimp too carefully, but I hold the crimper closed for a second before releasing to ensure even pressure on the ring. Rediculous?
Am I seeing an AAV behind the wall or is that black panel on the other side the access? Where I live, you can't bury an AAV because they only last 10-20 years.
I have one of those and water sometimes leaks in little spurts out the handle end. I am worried it can go down inside the wall by going inward on that silver metal casing and then down. Also for some reason when I tighten the screws on the plate with the blue red swirl, it makes the spout part come out from the wall. Does not sound good.
Why do you keep saying we? Just wondering I talk to Steve personally and he does work alone or with his daughter. I like that your doing this. I'm using it just switching my to PEX a. But I'm just wondering if you have ever worked with him.
Need help! I installed new rough in valve in my house and no now there's no hot water. What I did wrong? Probably hot and cold water mix in the valve. How can I fix it?
Great video!!!! It has everything a good instructional video should have: Good lighting, easy to see details, good explanations and recommendations on materials to use. Two thumbs way up.
How "deep" into the wall to set the valve is very difficult to figure out from vague instructions that come with mixing valves 5:25 in video. The black plastic mud ring and the "thin / thick" wall options all make it pretty confusing to the DIY world. It looks like you aimed to get face of the black ring to be flush with future tile surface and achieved that by building up behind with blocking. I generally put 2x6 blocking at back of wall so there is a 2" space for the valve and it works out well (3.5" stud minus 1.5" thick 2x4). Seems you achieved almost same thing by using 1/2 plus 3/4 OSB built onto the 2x4. This is an excellent video series btw -- I've renovated many bathrooms but in every video I see ways to fine tune the work I do :)
Great video are Moen all the same I have mid -90's and don't want change the Mix Valve we going to order 2 Moen T2153EPORB Brantford PosiTemp Tub and Shower Trim Kit your thoughts thanks in advance. Steven
I have seen water hammer arresting devices on a couple demos, not many have these! They are an over sized copper cylinder, for both hot & cold supply lines. The newer water hammer devices on the market , I believe they work better! good luck, to you!
@@surfviking2798 This is what I do, I got in the habit of turning off my valves slowly, much easier than demoing a wall and paying hundreds or thousands to re do it.
Very sloppy job applying Teflon tape. Any tape left inside the threaded area will eventually break off and clog the valve. All tape should be on the threads only and not inside that tubing.
this whole video was sloppy... he basically skipped a million parts and the video somehow started off with an OPEN shower with no walls... lol... i'm sure most peoples showers don't have the internal plumbing exposed with no ceramic wall covering...
I noticed behind the tub he has a vent valve for the tub they do need to every once in awhile to need to be access to replace so you're going to destroy your tub to replace it every couple years!!
You have what is called a cheater vent,that probably is not code compliant,tho next generation air admittance valves may be. Both would require an access panel as both are constructed of seals that will eventually fail.
I don’t understand what he’s doing. He used 3/4 inch and then 1/2 inch to get his spacing and then compared it another 1/2 piece to figure out what? He sped through probably the most important part on getting it mounted at the correct depth.
Why would you use Galvanized screws to hold the valve in place? If it gets wet the crappy wood you used will be the first thing to go leaving the screw with nothing to hold it in. I'm no plumber to be judging your work but I would have blocked that a little better for a valve that will be getting used daily. I admit have a tendency to over kill in areas I don't want to come back to.
This made my head hurt , too much Teflon tape ,not enough rector seal. Soldering job was a hack. Crimps suck , expansion is the only way to go on pex. A 2x4 backer board is more rigid & insets the valve body at the he perfect surface distance for the tile board & tile. Also you can use a 1/2" drop eared 90° for the spout just like a shower head . To each his own
There are many ways to accomplish something. Attacking different methodologies is a waste of time. You’re correct about 2x4s possibly setting the correct depth but it’s not true for every rough-in and is misleading. You can use a drop elbow but it’s not possible all the time if there’s varying incremental length required to the tub spout. Not every tile is the same thickness, eg 1/4” vs 3/8”. Also, those tiles require different thin-set thickness depending on the size, shape, and weight. There are many things to consider when setting the valve and therefore it’s good to understand many installation options, this was just one.
this whole video was sloppy... he basically skipped a million parts and the video somehow started off with an OPEN shower with no walls... lol... i'm sure most peoples showers don't have the internal plumbing exposed with no ceramic wall covering...
@@gutzy8001 I didn't get that either, he just kept adding chunks of wood, not how you should do a job. Just bring the first piece where it needs to be.
1:23 "hard pipe"??? Ease off on the tech speak. 5:35 "we'll be about an 1/8" outside of the area" Kind of curious what "area" means and the thickness of the spacer board used. Basically this is a video of a professional who knows what he's doing and has no idea how to explain what he's doing. Laying a voice over to try and explain helps but the trouble with this type of task it's not that helpful knowing how to do 80% because the missing 20% will screw you. Oh well.
Great video... just one point about galvanized screws and brass... while they are great for the blocking I would only use stainless steel screws for mounting the brass valve and elbow... galvanized = zinc . Zinc and brass copper have a very high corrosion potential so the zinc will turn to powder over time leaving you with bare steel. Most valves come with stainless steel screws in the package.
A good video with some good information.
1. Moen and pretty much every manufacturer recommend a copper line between the valve and the tub spout. The reason being is that most 1/2” pex is a smaller internal diameter and doesn’t supply enough pressure to keep the tub spout from dribbling water while the shower is on. Upsizing the water supply lines to the valve and to the tub to 3/4” pex will alleviate that problem.
2. I looked at that style of tub spout where the tub spout slides over over the copper line on then a set screw holds it in place. I decided I didn’t care for that as I was concerned about future leaks and don’t feel it is very secure. I opted for copper pipe that threads into the tub spout. In my opinion it way more secure and much less likely to leak. These are of course my opinion and yes..... I know what they say about opinions. 😊😊
Anyone have any thoughts regarding my opinion?
Something to keep in mind, if the branch going out the top of the mix valve to the shower head isn't long enough, you'll have water leak out the shower head even if the stopper to the tub spout is open. It has to do with how much pressure you have in your lines. Sometimes there's a bit more water in the lines that can come out of the tub spout so it'll want to go up that too pipe. If it's long enough, the water stack gets heavy enough to push back down and prevent it from spilling out the top. Just go higher, rather than lower on your shower head. Source: am not a plumber, I'm a carpenter. But I have seen this happen on 2 jobs before and asked a plumber how to stop it.
I’ve got a similar issue going on now after my install. I used 1/2 Pex going up to the shower head to the valve .
@@KyCellRepairI wonder if you could expand the pex from ½" PEX to ¾" PEX right above the valve to fix it. Obviously it would be best to put the shower head higher, but there are tons of reasons why people would have to put it lower.
Great job supporting the spout,mix valve,shower head,and using galvanized screws
Thanks Mark
absolutely .. nothing more annoying than using a shower with a wiggly shower head or tub spout -- drives me crazy!j great videos :)
You can use pex for the tub spout if you use a drop ear mounted to a wall brace for support.
Awesome info. It is difficult finding vids on unique circumstances. I have a very similar setup and my biggest issue was determining the depth of setting fixtures with a tub surround. The installation instructions never seem to be set for my conditions. Thanks!
Great idea using the shark bite cap for pressure testing. Nice install Steve.
Thanks, those little caps come in handy. The one we used for the shower head kind of stinks :/
what is it used to test for exactly?
@@Brandonbikes I assume you are testing all the valve connections by turning the water on and checking for leaks.
Great Video! Question for you though. How do you know the depth to set the valve in the studs? So you have the correct distance to account for backer board & tile? Thanks!
Thanks for this video, I wasn't sure if that white piece that attaches to the cartridge was supposed to come loose in the box or not.
If you use pipe thread tape make sure none of the tape is over the opening of the fitting.
Great video. I have on question. I have a tub shower diverter (pull up the little knob, which we never use). I am not a plumber, and dont want to open wall up. My existing shower has a one know cw/ccw hot cold handle. My question is this...d I need to install the posi temp shower...and if not, what will be the ramifications. This is a quest room, and we dont use frequently, and we really have not noticed a difference in pressure or temperature when using both master and quest shower. So, DO i need to install the posit temp. (its a MOEN)
Great video-I’m in the process of a complete bathroom renovation and have been using many of your guides (VERY useful-thank you!).
Would love to see a video of finishing this bath over that valve (I’m using the same one).
Also, do you have any tips to help get the valve to the correct depth (ie not too deep, not too shallow)?
We’d be happy to help, send an email to jeff@bathroomrepairtutor.com with some pictures
Thanks for the video! I got one question though: the valve ports have IPS (straight) threads. Those are not designed to seal on the thread, they usually use a washer or an O-ring. You used Teflon tape on the fittings, and lots of it, so I assume the fittings have NPT (tapered) threads. You made them watertight, however I wonder if this method is reliable enough for a walled-in inaccessible installation.
good spot
Nice clear audio on red=hot, blue=cold. obviously.
Mumbling at crucial step on how to set depth of mud ring vs finished tile surface.
That was the EXACT info I was after! However according to the Moen instructions, the mud ring should be flush with the FINISHED surface.
Great job
The crimps rings were practically flush to the brass fittings. They should be 1/4" away from the flange. I guess that's why you guys became experts in pressure testing. Burned a few times with bad crimps possibly ? I might crimp too carefully, but I hold the crimper closed for a second before releasing to ensure even pressure on the ring. Rediculous?
No, I also crimp about 1/4 away from the fittings, I thought that was how you were supposed to do it.
Am I seeing an AAV behind the wall or is that black panel on the other side the access? Where I live, you can't bury an AAV because they only last 10-20 years.
Thanks!
Thank you Mark, I really appreciate your kindness 🙏🏼 hopefully whatever video you watched was helpful
I did not see what kind of ring to use for PEX. I have seen some with a lip and some with no lip. Which one is better?
I have one of those and water sometimes leaks in little spurts out the handle end. I am worried it can go down inside the wall by going inward on that silver metal casing and then down. Also for some reason when I tighten the screws on the plate with the blue red swirl, it makes the spout part come out from the wall. Does not sound good.
Why do you keep saying we? Just wondering I talk to Steve personally and he does work alone or with his daughter. I like that your doing this. I'm using it just switching my to PEX a. But I'm just wondering if you have ever worked with him.
Need help! I installed new rough in valve in my house and no now there's no hot water. What I did wrong? Probably hot and cold water mix in the valve. How can I fix it?
Great video!!!! It has everything a good instructional video should have: Good lighting, easy to see details, good explanations and recommendations on materials to use. Two thumbs way up.
How "deep" into the wall to set the valve is very difficult to figure out from vague instructions that come with mixing valves 5:25 in video. The black plastic mud ring and the "thin / thick" wall options all make it pretty confusing to the DIY world. It looks like you aimed to get face of the black ring to be flush with future tile surface and achieved that by building up behind with blocking. I generally put 2x6 blocking at back of wall so there is a 2" space for the valve and it works out well (3.5" stud minus 1.5" thick 2x4). Seems you achieved almost same thing by using 1/2 plus 3/4 OSB built onto the 2x4. This is an excellent video series btw -- I've renovated many bathrooms but in every video I see ways to fine tune the work I do :)
I was wondering the same thing. Should the face of the ring be flush with the backerboard, or flush with the tile face?
It sounds like there is some slop in the depth?
If I get this valve and don’t have a shower spout for the tub going out the bottom, can a plumber just seal that exit up?
Sure!
Great video are Moen all the same I have mid -90's and don't want change the Mix Valve we going to order 2 Moen T2153EPORB Brantford PosiTemp Tub and Shower Trim Kit your thoughts thanks in advance. Steven
I have water hammer after I turn off the shower? Is there anyway to fix that? Do you think the mixing valve is the issue? Thank you for answering
I have seen water hammer arresting devices on a couple demos, not many have these! They are an over sized copper cylinder, for both hot & cold supply lines. The newer water hammer devices on the market , I believe they work better! good luck, to you!
Your valve either isn’t strapped or the pipes going to it aren’t. Only option would be open the wall or close the valve slowly.
@@surfviking2798 This is what I do, I got in the habit of turning off my valves slowly, much easier than demoing a wall and paying hundreds or thousands to re do it.
Now why would you expect your screws to rust out? Your shower should be water proof, no? Still good to use deck screws though 😁
Very sloppy job applying Teflon tape. Any tape left inside the threaded area will eventually break off and clog the valve. All tape should be on the threads only and not inside that tubing.
this whole video was sloppy... he basically skipped a million parts and the video somehow started off with an OPEN shower with no walls... lol... i'm sure most peoples showers don't have the internal plumbing exposed with no ceramic wall covering...
Thanks good stuff.
I.s great idea sr. Plomer men
good idea.
I noticed behind the tub he has a vent valve for the tub they do need to every once in awhile to need to be access to replace so you're going to destroy your tub to replace it every couple years!!
that does need to be replaced but if you have access they can be swapped out
You have what is called a cheater vent,that probably is not code compliant,tho next generation air admittance valves may be. Both would require an access panel as both are constructed of seals that will eventually fail.
I don’t understand what he’s doing. He used 3/4 inch and then 1/2 inch to get his spacing and then compared it another 1/2 piece to figure out what? He sped through probably the most important part on getting it mounted at the correct depth.
Why would you use Galvanized screws to hold the valve in place? If it gets wet the crappy wood you used will be the first thing to go leaving the screw with nothing to hold it in. I'm no plumber to be judging your work but I would have blocked that a little better for a valve that will be getting used daily. I admit have a tendency to over kill in areas I don't want to come back to.
👍👍🍻
Do not , Do not bury a mech. vent in a wall with no access , they can fail . Result sewer smell in house now where is it coming from ?
I get time is money, but atleast put down some cardboard in the tub. You're asking for a simple mistake.
Wow in a hurry much
This made my head hurt , too much Teflon tape ,not enough rector seal. Soldering job was a hack. Crimps suck , expansion is the only way to go on pex. A 2x4 backer board is more rigid & insets the valve body at the he perfect surface distance for the tile board & tile. Also you can use a 1/2" drop eared 90° for the spout just like a shower head . To each his own
There are many ways to accomplish something. Attacking different methodologies is a waste of time. You’re correct about 2x4s possibly setting the correct depth but it’s not true for every rough-in and is misleading. You can use a drop elbow but it’s not possible all the time if there’s varying incremental length required to the tub spout. Not every tile is the same thickness, eg 1/4” vs 3/8”. Also, those tiles require different thin-set thickness depending on the size, shape, and weight. There are many things to consider when setting the valve and therefore it’s good to understand many installation options, this was just one.
@@HomeRepairTutor thanks for educating one of them.
this whole video was sloppy... he basically skipped a million parts and the video somehow started off with an OPEN shower with no walls... lol... i'm sure most peoples showers don't have the internal plumbing exposed with no ceramic wall covering...
Not the proper way to solder tho.
Also put the 2 by 4 flush why add the plywood
@@swampfox7248 yeah could've just use a 2x4 either flush or 2 inches inside the stud. I level everything too.
@@gutzy8001 I didn't get that either, he just kept adding chunks of wood, not how you should do a job. Just bring the first piece where it needs to be.
1:23 "hard pipe"??? Ease off on the tech speak.
5:35 "we'll be about an 1/8" outside of the area" Kind of curious what "area" means and the thickness of the spacer board used.
Basically this is a video of a professional who knows what he's doing and has no idea how to explain what he's doing. Laying a voice over to try and explain helps but the trouble with this type of task it's not that helpful knowing how to do 80% because the missing 20% will screw you. Oh well.
Please lose the beard. You look much better without it.
Thanks 🙏🏽