Ben, you have made the best instructional video on how to sweat a new modern-style shower valve! You did it step by step and didn't leave out anything. I have done it before, but I don't do it all the time. It was a nice refresher course. People really need to remember/know how to remove the cartridge before they heat the valve. That would be an expensive mistake. Good work, thanks!
Thanks Ben! Bought a shower valve that had two water supply Pex connections and two male universal NPT for tub and shower. I didn't want to use a screw in for the shower since I am using Pex (capping off tub with copper and cap), I did not realize they made male Pex adapters and the local big box store didn't understand what I was looking for. Now that I know what I need, I can sweat the adapters like I wanted to!
You might recommend application of silicone grease (the type approved for potable water and/or FDA approved) to the rubber surfaces of the cartridge prior to re-installation. The heating process will have caused the factory grease to dissipate.
i put silicone grease on my sister in laws moen kitchen faucet cartridge and she complained it opened and closed too easily it would slowly close itself from the weight of the handle. i thought that was a great feature lol . i said don't worry it will wear off and be hard to open soon enough lol
Good video. Like you I always solder with the valve upside down but also sand or brush/clean with the valve port upside down so I don’t get any debris in any little orifice and causing a problem.
you prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Luca Jensen thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out now. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
i like to mention not putting too much solder on fittings they recommend only about the diameter of pipe that keeps solder from running down into mechanism of valve and getting in the way of cartridge
Nice demonstration technique and explanation while dropping an important tip regarding soldering the body before mounting to ensure the outlets don't get clogged. +1 subscribers
How do you get to be a journeyman plumber at the age of 15? Man you look young. You'll appreciate that comment years from now. Very nice video with good info. Thank you!
OK... you changed my mind. I was going to use the female thread adapter for my new bath/tub valve, but I found out I have to use copper piping for the tub spout anyhow, so why not solder 3 more fittings while I have to solder one anyhow to reduce the potential for leaking. Thanks.
I like this video and really appreciate it being posted. This is more of a general question... In this video, it looks like the Solder is being heated (melted) which leads to the joint between the valve and the pipe being filled. Am I right or wrong for seeing that? I ask because I was taught that you should never heat the solder, but heat the objects (valve and pipe) until they are hot enough to melt the solder when solder is placed on those heated objects. Q: Does it make a difference?
Wow! Does it mean that every threaded mixer connector can be used for an inside soldering, please? Or it has to be checked before buying mixers? Thank you
Before I could getting the fitting hot enough for my solder to melt all my flux boiled away and my solder wouldn’t take. Screwed up so bad I couldn’t get copper out now I can’t get it back in.
nice work. I was wondering if you have to put the solder all the way around but you just put it in one spot and it runs down and around. is that enough to weld it?
You don't necessarily have to run your solder all the way around but I'd recommend doing it briefly. Even if it ends up dripping once. You just want to make sure it's a nice even visible bead all the way around. Good luck!
Cool video! I have a question what about if you have a female copper threaded end and you solder it to your brass male fitting? Or would it be better just to use some Teflon tape
Question: is it ok to use pex tubing as the supply line to your shower head? I was told not to do that because of back pressure when shutting the shower off. I don’t know anything about plumbing and I just redid my entire home myself with pex and the last thing I have left to do is my second bathroom since the solder has lead in it and I need to replace it.
there is no pressure on the line from valve to head just a little when running from the flow limiter as long as you have threaded elbow with ears mounted securely it should not be a problem. you don't need to change your pipes just because they have old lead solder there is only a tiny line of solder exposed in pipe and has been coated for years with minerals in water if you're worried run water a minute before drinking from sink if it has sat overnight
I understand soldering is better but for how much… what are the chances that an fip with teflon tape and pipe dope leaks? Like enough to avoid at al cost ?
iron pipe is terrible especially in walls and connected to copper it rusts faster when connected to copper, so you get brown water and pipes eventually get holes from rusting
I have that exact same question. All I can find around here (USA, Ohio) is LF brass. I was thinking that you may be able to cut off a pex copper stub out and "make" them yourself, but it seems wasteful and may be more trouble than it's worth.
Can you share the Moen part number for this valve? The ones I keep coming across have tub spout valve too and this is the valve I am looking for.. Thanks
i have complete kit and number on valve says 158103 on box it just says posi-temp valve with 1222 cartridge the whole kit is 82912 valve handle and pipe and shower head
mike mike copper is only required going down to the tub spout. PEX is acceptable here in Minnesota. Your local codes may differ of course. Thanks for your comment!
mike mike You're absolutely correct. It is not required though even according to Moen to have the shower operate as designed. Remember, the reduced size of PEX is only temporary at each fitting. This is not as restrictive as it would be if the entire pipe was that small. Like I said though if you prefer copper then by all means go for it. It is just not required.
mike mike Mike it depends on if you are using PEX A or PEX B. Pex A is a larger diameter than PEX B. Also, unless you are using a high flow or multiple shower heads the PEX diameter won’t matter as a regular shower head flows less gpm than the PEX can supply.
+skoronesa Soldering is at a lower temperature than brazing. I believe 400 degrees C and under is soldering and above is brazing. Thanks for your comments!
Yeah, I know the difference. I was saying you are wrong to say that solder has no chance of leaking, it very much so does. I love to solder copper pipe, it's an art form and is very satisfying, but it is not as reliable as brazing. Obviously brazing is cost prohibitive but you don't have the same issues that can lead a solder joint to fail such as pockets of flux or "burnt" fittings that won't take solder. If you use the correct brazing rod it is self fluxing and you don't have to worry about excess/too little, or burnt flux. Propress can be nice for service of existing copper but is really expensive and the butyl rubber orings probably won't last as long as say polyethylene and you still have the possibility of copper pinholes and flowered joints. Performance wise we should really use fostapex upsized to account for the smaller I.D.. I don't like wirsboro as much as viega pex but they are probably both equal. At least you aren't using polybutylene ;)
You have lots of great paints there and I agree! I was mostly referring to the fact that a "properly soldered" connection has little to no chance of leaking. I haven't seen many leaks develop over time in properly soldered connections before verses pipe thread with sealants. Thanks for elaborating! I appreciate it. Blessings, Ben
@@BenjaminSahlstrom where are you getting your information that a soldered connection has less a chance of leaking... you know how many 100y/o threaded galvanized pipe systems i've replaced that barely leaked? can't say the same for copper, you're lucky to get 30-50 years in most of Indiana with our hard water
@@derrickm2093 brass is a bit harder to solder than copper with the new lead free solders but if you clean it enough have lots of flux it will work preferably with a good hot torch
Thomas Engeman the cartridge doesn’t have any orientation markings only on the valve body, it will fit in either direction. After the first time you put the cartridge in upside down and get a callback from the homeowner or contractor because the hot water is opposite of the H&C markings you’ll mark it or make note of orientation also it only takes once I know from experience.
Very COMPLETE and CONCISE instructions. You could be an instructor that makes a huge difference in apprentice plumbers careers.
It’s obvious that you are a genuine humble guy, I appreciate that.
I watched a lot of videos on this. You went into detail the best.
Ben, you have made the best instructional video on how to sweat a new modern-style shower valve!
You did it step by step and didn't leave out anything. I have done it before, but I don't do it all the time. It was a nice refresher course. People really need to remember/know how to remove the cartridge before they heat the valve. That would be an expensive mistake.
Good work, thanks!
Have never had the best results with soldering/sweating pipe but this video was excellent. Tackling a shower valve soon!
More guys like you are needed on this trade ... thanks
I’ve got the same valve. Bruh, you’re a life saver. Thanks, Ben!
Thanks Ben! Bought a shower valve that had two water supply Pex connections and two male universal NPT for tub and shower. I didn't want to use a screw in for the shower since I am using Pex (capping off tub with copper and cap), I did not realize they made male Pex adapters and the local big box store didn't understand what I was looking for. Now that I know what I need, I can sweat the adapters like I wanted to!
You might recommend application of silicone grease (the type approved for potable water and/or FDA approved) to the rubber surfaces of the cartridge prior to re-installation. The heating process will have caused the factory grease to dissipate.
+Tom Ritch Great suggestion. Thanks for pointing that out!
True , but non of the lazy ass plumbers of CT .. will do that .. I bet all my money 🤣
i put silicone grease on my sister in laws moen kitchen faucet cartridge and she complained it opened and closed too easily it would slowly close itself from the weight of the handle. i thought that was a great feature lol . i said don't worry it will wear off and be hard to open soon enough lol
Nice video. I figured the cartridge needed to come out before soldering but you affirmed that. Also liked your comment not to over heat.
I'm about to start sweating all my joints. Very informative and this was exactly what I needed. Thanks!
Great video! You saved my butt Ben since I was tying in the same Moen diverter into my bathroom remodel. Thank you!!!
I've seen it suggested that before reinstalling cartridge you should run water to flush out any debris.
Thanks, I was a little gun shy to use a torch and solder, but I think I can handle that
Thank you for the video. Have another Moen. Good refresher, because last one was several years ago.
Good video. Like you I always solder with the valve upside down but also sand or brush/clean with the valve port upside down so I don’t get any debris in any little orifice and causing a problem.
Thanks, that helped a lot. You remind my of the character"Young Sheldon," from the spin off of Big Bang Theory.
Great video. Excellent and knowledgeable presentation by a “for-real” craftsman.
Looking forward to more videos.
you prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I was dumb forgot the password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Marcel Mordechai Instablaster =)
@Luca Jensen thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Luca Jensen It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you really help me out!
@Marcel Mordechai glad I could help =)
Well done! Great video that clearly explains the entire process. Thanks!
2:33 the "mark" of a good tradesman. Smart tip for the average DYIer. 4:38 will save you some angst.
Excellent video! I have an old shower valve that I want to replace with that moen shower valve.
i like to mention not putting too much solder on fittings they recommend only about the diameter of pipe that keeps solder from running down into mechanism of valve and getting in the way of cartridge
Great job dude! No "psychological" damage done...lol. I know you did this a few years ago. I don't understand h8ers.
Nice demonstration technique and explanation while dropping an important tip regarding soldering the body before mounting to ensure the outlets don't get clogged. +1 subscribers
Very helpful, well presented and explained. I subscribed.
Thank you!!!
Thanks Very well done. Ive just done it the wrong way and was looking for help to redo it. Will let you know how it went
How do you get to be a journeyman plumber at the age of 15? Man you look young. You'll appreciate that comment years from now. Very nice video with good info. Thank you!
Eres el mejorrrrr!! ( you are the best )my friend thanks from st paul Minnesota 🤣🤣😁👍 I consume what Minnesota makes
OK... you changed my mind. I was going to use the female thread adapter for my new bath/tub valve, but I found out I have to use copper piping for the tub spout anyhow, so why not solder 3 more fittings while I have to solder one anyhow to reduce the potential for leaking. Thanks.
Me too
might as well solder all ports and be safe, Won’t have to worry about leaks.
Thanks for making a useful video -- easy to understand and informative. Going to get the necessary tools and do this!
Thank you for taking your time to make this video. Very helpful
Valve takes longer to heat up so torch should be on valve side of joint for most of heating?
Lead free solder is required in all states as part of the "Safe drinking water act".
Thank you so much! Excellent video! Super helpful!
Can I solder if the threads are female? THe half inch pipe itself is too loose but a coupling actually fits pretty well
Thank you
Excellent, just what I needed!
Very helpful, as always. Thanks!
super video
Thanks. I just burnt the fuck out my hand ..Now I can count the threads on my fingers...People never grab a valve after you do this!!!!!!!
moen cartridge has a notch on the brass stem. this tells you the up or down direction for it
The HC is up genius
I noticed it took between 8 and 12 seconds before the solder would flow. Were you using MAP gas ?
I like this video and really appreciate it being posted. This is more of a general question... In this video, it looks like the Solder is being heated (melted) which leads to the joint between the valve and the pipe being filled. Am I right or wrong for seeing that? I ask because I was taught that you should never heat the solder, but heat the objects (valve and pipe) until they are hot enough to melt the solder when solder is placed on those heated objects. Q: Does it make a difference?
nevermind. I just rewatched the video.
Yes, you're correct that you heat the pipe and not the solder as the pipe will melt the solder when it is hot enough. Thanks for asking!
Wow! Does it mean that every threaded mixer connector can be used for an inside soldering, please? Or it has to be checked before buying mixers? Thank you
most offer the option hose valves for outdoors shower valves lots have that ability thread on outside and solder on inside
When the brush gets worn down and you have to turn it a million times to make it clean, just squish the handle and put it in a drill ;)
yeah i cut handles off and put them in drills all the time they sell female brushes for drill if your going to do lots of soldering
Great video, Ben.
Great video. Thanks
Before I could getting the fitting hot enough for my solder to melt all my flux boiled away and my solder wouldn’t take. Screwed up so bad I couldn’t get copper out now I can’t get it back in.
nice work. I was wondering if you have to put the solder all the way around but you just put it in one spot and it runs down and around. is that enough to weld it?
You don't necessarily have to run your solder all the way around but I'd recommend doing it briefly. Even if it ends up dripping once. You just want to make sure it's a nice even visible bead all the way around. Good luck!
Nice work! And great video
Nice vidéo....question for you my pex fitting are made of brass just like the valve trim will it solder correctly ?
Great video.
Cool video!
I have a question what about if you have a female copper threaded end and you solder it to your brass male fitting? Or would it be better just to use some Teflon tape
Good video, very helpful
We’re up using map or propane?
Good job man!
it says up on the valve no need for the sharpie mark :) still a good video ;)
Question: is it ok to use pex tubing as the supply line to your shower head? I was told not to do that because of back pressure when shutting the shower off. I don’t know anything about plumbing and I just redid my entire home myself with pex and the last thing I have left to do is my second bathroom since the solder has lead in it and I need to replace it.
there is no pressure on the line from valve to head just a little when running from the flow limiter as long as you have threaded elbow with ears mounted securely it should not be a problem. you don't need to change your pipes just because they have old lead solder there is only a tiny line of solder exposed in pipe and has been coated for years with minerals in water if you're worried run water a minute before drinking from sink if it has sat overnight
@@ranger178 I agree if you worry about that little amount of lead then you should worry about how much bleach is in the water.
Very good. Thank you.
it says HC on the cartridge hot on left cold on right. good video though
If a threaded copper female adapter is used in your illiustration, do you use Teflon tape or solder to seal the connection? Thanks.
threaded connections always use joint compound or Teflon tape these valves allow threaded on outside or solder on inside of flitting
those are tapered threads. make them good and tight and they will never leak
I understand soldering is better but for how much… what are the chances that an fip with teflon tape and pipe dope leaks? Like enough to avoid at al cost ?
iron pipe is terrible especially in walls and connected to copper it rusts faster when connected to copper, so you get brown water and pipes eventually get holes from rusting
Thanks man
NIcely done.
Hi Benjamin , great video ! which side of this Moen valve does the hot water go in ?
hot on left cold on right all plumbing valves
Thanks
Thanks, great video, and I subscribed.
nt233 Thanks! I appreciate it a lot. Merry Christmas!
What is the best method if the existing plumbing is copper?
akrasia1969 Usually to sweat a PEX adapter onto it if possible.
Thx
!!Good but you need to practice with that torch and wet clothe!! 👍🤔
What can happen when you solder it without removing the cartridge
You could melt the plastic. Any more brain busters?
@@mattmarzula if it still works after without leaking . Is it a big deal?
@@StevennH1 if it works i guess you didn't get it too hot worst case it wears out a bit sooner the seals and you have to replace cartridge
Where did you get the copper male pex adapters?
I have that exact same question. All I can find around here (USA, Ohio) is LF brass. I was thinking that you may be able to cut off a pex copper stub out and "make" them yourself, but it seems wasteful and may be more trouble than it's worth.
Can you share the Moen part number for this valve? The ones I keep coming across have tub spout valve too and this is the valve I am looking for.. Thanks
Hi just run a short length of copper and cap it off and attach to the tub spout outlet, and problem solved!
i have complete kit and number on valve says 158103 on box it just says posi-temp valve with 1222 cartridge the whole kit is 82912 valve handle and pipe and shower head
It's harder to solder brass to copper when you don't have a turbo torch!, takes more time to heat up and you tend to lose the flux! 😐
lololol "if it bothers you psychologically "
That's sign of a perfectionist. I am same.
The flux breaks down and prevents oxides when the metal is heated.
Nice soldering
But the shower head pipe has to b a copper pipe
Pex pipe inside diameter is 3/8
mike mike copper is only required going down to the tub spout. PEX is acceptable here in Minnesota. Your local codes may differ of course.
Thanks for your comment!
It's not about codes it's about having more water volume
mike mike You're absolutely correct. It is not required though even according to Moen to have the shower operate as designed. Remember, the reduced size of PEX is only temporary at each fitting. This is not as restrictive as it would be if the entire pipe was that small. Like I said though if you prefer copper then by all means go for it. It is just not required.
mike mike Mike it depends on if you are using PEX A or PEX B. Pex A is a larger diameter than PEX B. Also, unless you are using a high flow or multiple shower heads the PEX diameter won’t matter as a regular shower head flows less gpm than the PEX can supply.
3:38
👍🏻
like
Solder has no chance of leaking? I think you meant to say brazing.
+skoronesa Soldering is at a lower temperature than brazing. I believe 400 degrees C and under is soldering and above is brazing. Thanks for your comments!
Yeah, I know the difference. I was saying you are wrong to say that
solder has no chance of leaking, it very much so does. I love to solder
copper pipe, it's an art form and is very satisfying, but it is not as reliable as brazing.
Obviously
brazing is cost prohibitive but you don't have the same issues that can
lead a solder joint to fail such as pockets of flux or "burnt" fittings
that won't take solder. If you use the correct brazing rod it is self
fluxing and you don't have to worry about excess/too little, or burnt
flux.
Propress can be nice for service of existing copper but is
really expensive and the butyl rubber orings probably won't last as long
as say polyethylene and you still have the possibility of copper
pinholes and flowered joints.
Performance wise we should really
use fostapex upsized to account for the smaller I.D.. I don't like
wirsboro as much as viega pex but they are probably both equal.
At least you aren't using polybutylene ;)
You have lots of great paints there and I agree! I was mostly referring to the fact that a "properly soldered" connection has little to no chance of leaking. I haven't seen many leaks develop over time in properly soldered connections before verses pipe thread with sealants.
Thanks for elaborating! I appreciate it.
Blessings,
Ben
No, he meant solder. Do it right and it won't leak smartass
@@BenjaminSahlstrom where are you getting your information that a soldered connection has less a chance of leaking... you know how many 100y/o threaded galvanized pipe systems i've replaced that barely leaked? can't say the same for copper, you're lucky to get 30-50 years in most of Indiana with our hard water
In the uk you wouldn’t get away with soldering into a threaded brass valve, it’s not aloud
Interesting. Thanks for sharing!
Gavin this valve is designed for dual purpose fittings soldered or threaded. Take a close look at the valve.
Why not
@@derrickm2093 brass is a bit harder to solder than copper with the new lead free solders but if you clean it enough have lots of flux it will work preferably with a good hot torch
Boo Sharkbites .
If your a journeyman plumber then I'm pretty sure you do know how to do it right have a little confidence bud
I think it's called sarcasm
Grapes are a detriment to my psychological well being...
Don’t buy Moën shower valve. The cartridge is flimsy and fragile made out of too much plastic.
The word "UP" wasn't a good enough reminder?
Thomas Engeman the cartridge doesn’t have any orientation markings only on the valve body, it will fit in either direction. After the first time you put the cartridge in upside down and get a callback from the homeowner or contractor because the hot water is opposite of the H&C markings you’ll mark it or make note of orientation also it only takes once I know from experience.
Slop