How to turbo bmw e90 n52 pt3 (FINALE)

heres the final video a complete overview of my turbo n52b30 engine if theres anything i missed or you want more details on let me know in the comments and ill go over it, some things i skipped over that were in previous videos pt1 and pt2 like ccv delete and the coolant tank relocation. this engine currently has a valve stem or piston ring issue from over boosting (my fault) 🤦‍♂️ i will be making a video on the tear down and installation of the new low compression pistons looking for that 20psi and see what breaks next 😆 hope this helps some ppl lost in the middle of a turbo install 👍 if you feel like donating to help get new pistons in this season i do have a go fund me page heres the link gofund.me/a15ea6e8. thanks for watching good luck with the builds n52 ftw 😎

[@kapone1471]

Good explanation of your build. I'm in the middle of adding a turbo to my 2009 BMW 328i n51b30 myself and I'd say im about 90% done. What I have left to do is ccv delete, install oil catch can (comes in mail today!!), connect intercooler piping and blow off valve, vacuum lines, and finish turbo downpipe and O2's. I just "tap the cap" over the weekend and I'm very happy that I did it that way!!
Now on to my question. For the secondary O2 sensors, can I mount them somewhat down where they were factory? I didn't do the log style like you did, I made my turbo manifold using the factory manifolds, so the primary O2's are at the top of the manifold. Is this okay for me to do?? I perfer the full exhaust system and don't want to do a hood dump style.

[@rumrunnersracing]

You will only need one o2 sensor that’s the wideband if you made a single manifold that goes 6-12 inches after the turbo. if you run a secondary o2 it can be anywhere downstream I think they say 24” but they are only narrowband sensors and once u boost the car they won’t be needed. But the wideband needs to be minimum 6” after the turbo to get your target afr for tuning so if Theyr on the top of the manifold that might not work my car only runs one wideband sensor from the factory harness although depending on your method of tuning you should only need one what are your tuning plans for your car?

[@AlexandreJuniorTv]

Nice build my friend! I have a n52b25 turboed as well
are you going to use VANOS?
how much boost are you intend to use on it?

[@rumrunnersracing]

Thanks man much appreciated this car has been boosted a bit over a year running constant 14psi right on the threshold of what these motors can take without gapped piston rings. There’s other videos you can check out in the channel 😜 My standalone is one of a kind it uses the vanos and valvetronic together my tuner who made the ecu just for these n52 motors is just developing the code for the valvetronic a bit more to filter the data for failing eccentric shaft sensors as they read the valvetronic position. He’s a stickler for coding he wants this standalone to be on the market by next season. this car when it was on the dyno using valvetronic and vanos made a bit over 600whp @4500rpm before the ecu shut it down for boost creeping over 14psi so there’s huge potential I’m just putting in low compression pistons and rings to send it to 20psi and see what this platform is capable of 👨‍🔧 lol

[@canadianbacon4812]

@@rumrunnersracing This setup made 600whp? you must go through motors very quickly

[@rumrunnersracing]

@@canadianbacon4812 this setup lasted a solid season of abuse it only failed because I boost creeped and hit the cut off to many times really it was pretty stout for not doing any work on internals. When boosting an n/a car first thing u wanna do is gap the piston rings it’s vital I was testing where the limits are of an unopened motor. Also having valvetronic and boost is a weapon I just have to swap the eccentric shaft sensor then my tuner is going to update the code and get it back in action. Without valvetronic and vanos with boost that my standalone controls all together it would be real difficult to make the 600whp on 91 pump gas 🤔