If your looking to support the channel to help me produce better quality videos more frequently, or get parts to keep this boosted n52 going to 700whp here’s a link your support helps immensely and every bit counts 😉👍 buymeacoffee.com/rumrunnersracing
Yes I am in the works for that the car needs new piston rings so im going to make a video on the full tear down and rebuild for higher boost I’m looking at running 20psi after the piston swap should be the most boost an n52 has ran. I saw one guy claim 19psi so I gotta go above that 😆
@@rumrunnersracing can’t wait for that to drop. I’d love to see a step by step guide so I can do mine lol. Can’t let others take that crown bro 😂 20psi will be insane!
For sure that’s coming in pt3 I should get my exhaust parts back today so I can finish this tutorial fast for u peeps looking to boost this car season 😉👍
That’s awesome these cars with boost are a lot of fun. I’ll be starting a new series how to gap piston rings for higher boost. Next season I’m going to run 18-20psi and see if I can make the most power recorded on a pure n52 setup with no n54 parts lol
I could but I would need things like meth injection or race gas to run more boost unless I gap the rings and upgrade the head studs. Ideally say unopened motor 14psi is pretty much max without fancy fuels like race gas or meth injection.
No e85 and meth injection is a way to cool down the fuel and lower cylinder temps so you can run more boost without the excess heat expanding the piston rings until they touch and blow the motor. That’s why my standalone is designed to pull timing if Intake or engine temps get to hot to save the piston rings from expanding and touching each other and to combat pre detonation and knock that occurs when cylinders get hot and timing is to aggressive or timing that was safe falls in the danger zone when the intake and engine temps get higher then when it was being tuned. To to combat heat u use race gas or meth injection for cooling if you don’t want to actually just gap the rings.
@@rumrunnersracing to be honest, I love the explaining of what they can happen on the N52 you gotta make videos on what you need to get to 19 psi because I’m willing to have my friend be helped out on his N 52 and he wants to get close to where you can at least push 19 psi, but no more further than that he even heard that you can overboost it to 20 psi if you wanted too but all set it inside that makes some videos on it some more of what else you need to keep the turbo going cause I like how you explaining everything everything even if I’m wrong on things but at least you’re responding to this
I do believe that all matches up the intake manifold you can use maybe charge piping, and the intercooler but I’m not a big fan of using n54 parts on the n52. at a certain point u mise well just buy a 335i and when buying parts all the n54 stuff is more expensive so you can save money and get a better bigger intercooler for the same price as buying new n54 intercooler so I stick to universal aftermarket parts more bang for my buck, Also my intercooler is a lot bigger than a 335i as well as my charge piping and the n52 intake manifold has ports from the ccv delete that I use for my vacuum bank it was more convenient at the time. But if you have the parts on hand already or can get them cheap they should work except for the exhaust manifold from the n54 will not fit the n52 that has to be bought or fabricated for the n52 head.
@@rumrunnersracing thanks for the response. I only ask because I have 335 parts, from a wrecked car. I have a 330 that has the DISA valves so I’d want to use my n54 intake to get rid of those. Already have intercooler, charge pipe, etc.
Nice if I have parts on hand they will work u just need the n52 exhaust manifold n54 won’t line up at all good luck man. There’s a rum runners racing Facebook page if u wanna post your progress 👍
@@shawzymusicn54 does mount up, someone on youtube has a guide just search. But a 3 stage intake makes more power without the need for diff mods and such
@@THAT-BOI-LOGNA not at the moment I clean machines at factory’s for a living 😅 I’m just addicted to making power so this is what I do with my spare time 😎. But I could easily install a complete setup ive done it for a few different bmws now the e39 on the channel I boosted as well.
Couple years ago I bought a custom turbo for the N52 from Facebook marketplace it was used which means it was working The guy said he crashed his car. That’s why he selling me the turbo kit. It’s been sitting for a while I wanna put it in But I don’t wanna blow up my engine
If you follow the steps it shouldn’t blow just remember to delete the ccv (crank case vent) if u leave it and boost the car you will blow oil seals right away because the ccv is attached to the intake manifold and the boost pressure from the intake will feed into the crank case and pressurize it. The ccv should run to a catch can or vented to atmosphere. Also tuning ide say is what blows these engines with a good tuner u would be set just don’t cheap out on anything fuel or engine management related improper fueling will blow your motor but that’s not just n52 that’s all cars. I didn’t know about the ccv and boosted my e46 first big drive I blew the seal out of the oil pan it wasent a good look 😆
We’re actually remaking the manifold but also making a jug to replicate them if your serious I could have a second one made I’ll ask my buddy and see what he would charge to make a second one. The issue is the stock flange we kept and welded is to thin to support the weight of the turbo with the excess heat. So we’re going with a 3/8’s thick flange to solve the issue 😎
@@rumrunnersracingI am dead serious about buying one! Please get with me and we can make it happen. Been debating selling the n52b30 e60 and going n54, but I don’t feel like DEALING with the n54 issues. The n52 is much more reliable. If you can come up with a decent price I will buy today!
@@ts-fam513 the second ecu is being made right now the design was sent to the board house we’re waiting for them to send the first one back so we can test it before putting the order for a few batches I will update on this channel when they are being released and with a price point. In the meantime you could email about a pre order to my tuner he’s making them www.popformance.com is his website the contact options will lead u to him with enough ppl wanting pre order might speed things up 👍
There’s almost no difference besides being a 2.5l and the b30 is the 3.0l it’s just slightly bigger the parts will be the same process will be exactly same just will make a little less power overall being slightly displacement but Itill still make the power 💪😎
Yes you can it will be all the same except you will have a transmission cooler to cork around at the front usually you just slip it behind the intercooler. I’m filming my part 2 of the series later today. I will cover vac line routing oil feed and drain and relocating the coolant expansion tank. And a bit of exhaust routing. So Itill be a lot of info packed into part 2. Then part 3 is when I get my exhaust manifold back from being repaired then I’ll film everything getting installed it should help ppl planning their builds.
You could get it done under 5k in parts depending that might include a base tune 🤔 I spent a bit extra on a few things like the injectors but there’s cheaper options the exhaust manifold is the hardest thing if you do the work yourself you can get where I’m at for 5grand I will make a list of all the things to buy in my next video I’m just waiting on my exhaust manifold to be remade with a stronger flange then I’ll continue the series and maybe give links to put together your own “kit”
@@SocietyBTW it’s worth it my car made 600whp on a hub dyno before dialing in the valvetronic so they can handle power. If your looking for a reliable 3-400whp I think 5k and some time is worth It. I did it because after u boost it parts are cheap maintenance is cheap but a 335i everything is expensive and hard to source not as many part outs available. A scrap yard n52 motor near me is 500$ so I don’t feel bad if I go too hard at the track and something blows. Where as 335i u blow the motor it’s hard to source another one and it won’t be anywhere near 500$
Don’t do it please people .. The cylinders aren’t steel sleeved and cut … there cut and coated then u have the piston rings , the valves aren’t stiff enough , the main bearings aren’t strong enough so u may spin the crank after a couple hundred miles or couple thousand depends if it’s tuned on the rich or lean side preferably u would want to be a little rich so u don’t blow the engine ofc ..
Just so your aware this cars been boosted going on 2 years no issues if you do it right it will last. And these motors are a magnesium block and it IS steel sleeved. And how are the valves not stiff enough my car is the ONLY one to use boost and keep valvetronic functionality. If you don’t do your research probably don’t chime in your 0.2 cents 🤷♂️ Stock piston rings will expand and touch under a few conditions the car has to be running lean af and have high cylinder temps if you have proper fueling and your running a decent intercooler keeping an eye on engine temps and intake temps, and have knowledge of how this stuff works also get it tuned by a professional Theyr fine if you run rich and advance the timing enough will blow the motor anyways all cars are like this tuning and fueling is key. The weak point is the magnesium block itself dosent heat cycle well it’s strong but brittle as it dosent expand under heat like iron blocks do magnesium shatters like glass. But regardless how many ppl have u seen actually blow out the rotating assembly by boosting? And as for the sleeves if it’s not steel what do u think they used steel sleeved ls cylinders is the standard. Do your research before u try to convince ppl to go to a dealership and not build their own projects 👍.
@@mtbridingog9083my motor is a stock n52b30 most 3 series run this nothing special stock internals I’ve never opened this motor all stock 120k on the clock it’s not putting in proper supporting mods that blow the engine that’s y I mention the rising rate fuel pressure regulator that not many boosted bmw guys run without it at higher boost your injectors fail to atomize the fuel properly due to cylinder back pressure in this case that pressure is boost the more u run the higher the fuel pressure needs to be to maintain consistent injector flow. Keep posted I’ll let u know how it holds up been boosted going on 2 years first drift events are coming up 👍 just check compression before boosting low compression your motors trash before u even start 🤷♂️ so much could go wrong but the platform itself has proven to be pretty solid if you know your stuff that’s what I’m trying to pass on here the knowledge so ppl don’t blow up their cars just looking to get over the 300whp mark.
They are Not that cheap where I am also Maintaining them isint cheap even doing the work yourself. The n54 parts are pricey injectors cost a small Fortune alone to replace. you have to get them walnut blasted every so often and The turbos are a nightmare to get to dropping the front subframe is a real pain. Where I am 335i is easy 7-11k if you want a half decent manual that runs u can get the auto cheaper but who wants that 🤷♂️ although the n54 is a great engine where I am n52’s are everywhere n54’s are far and few between.
@@rumrunnersracing Ive put 17ts on my e60 535i and done every maintenance there is to do. It's def not for beginners but you get a reliable 500whp easy
If your looking to support the channel to help me produce better quality videos more frequently, or get parts to keep this boosted n52 going to 700whp here’s a link your support helps immensely and every bit counts
😉👍 buymeacoffee.com/rumrunnersracing
stoked to see this thing in action
If you did a full build tutorial I reckon the video will get mad views
Yes I am in the works for that the car needs new piston rings so im going to make a video on the full tear down and rebuild for higher boost I’m looking at running 20psi after the piston swap should be the most boost an n52 has ran. I saw one guy claim 19psi so I gotta go above that 😆
@@rumrunnersracing can’t wait for that to drop. I’d love to see a step by step guide so I can do mine lol. Can’t let others take that crown bro 😂 20psi will be insane!
@@rumrunnersracingjust saw this video, I’m now eagerly waiting for this guide.
nice build
Thanks!
Please show and describe the vacuum lines) How they are connecting and where)
For sure that’s coming in pt3 I should get my exhaust parts back today so I can finish this tutorial fast for u peeps looking to boost this car season 😉👍
Thank you I’m going to start this winter
That’s awesome these cars with boost are a lot of fun. I’ll be starting a new series how to gap piston rings for higher boost. Next season I’m going to run 18-20psi and see if I can make the most power recorded on a pure n52 setup with no n54 parts lol
hell yeah brother
excuse me sir can you leave an Amazon link to all the parts needed in the description?
I’m working on it I’ll try to toss it in the part 3 video 👍
This helps a lot my only question is can you run it up to 19 psi
I could but I would need things like meth injection or race gas to run more boost unless I gap the rings and upgrade the head studs. Ideally say unopened motor 14psi is pretty much max without fancy fuels like race gas or meth injection.
What happens if you run e85 tho will it compress it more for it to run 19psi
No e85 and meth injection is a way to cool down the fuel and lower cylinder temps so you can run more boost without the excess heat expanding the piston rings until they touch and blow the motor. That’s why my standalone is designed to pull timing if Intake or engine temps get to hot to save the piston rings from expanding and touching each other and to combat pre detonation and knock that occurs when cylinders get hot and timing is to aggressive or timing that was safe falls in the danger zone when the intake and engine temps get higher then when it was being tuned. To to combat heat u use race gas or meth injection for cooling if you don’t want to actually just gap the rings.
@@rumrunnersracing to be honest, I love the explaining of what they can happen on the N52 you gotta make videos on what you need to get to 19 psi because I’m willing to have my friend be helped out on his N 52 and he wants to get close to where you can at least push 19 psi, but no more further than that he even heard that you can overboost it to 20 psi if you wanted too but all set it inside that makes some videos on it some more of what else you need to keep the turbo going cause I like how you explaining everything everything even if I’m wrong on things but at least you’re responding to this
Couldn’t you use all N54 parts for the manifold side? Intake/TB/charge pipe/intercooler etc?
I do believe that all matches up the intake manifold you can use maybe charge piping, and the intercooler but I’m not a big fan of using n54 parts on the n52. at a certain point u mise well just buy a 335i and when buying parts all the n54 stuff is more expensive so you can save money and get a better bigger intercooler for the same price as buying new n54 intercooler so I stick to universal aftermarket parts more bang for my buck, Also my intercooler is a lot bigger than a 335i as well as my charge piping and the n52 intake manifold has ports from the ccv delete that I use for my vacuum bank it was more convenient at the time. But if you have the parts on hand already or can get them cheap they should work except for the exhaust manifold from the n54 will not fit the n52 that has to be bought or fabricated for the n52 head.
@@rumrunnersracing thanks for the response. I only ask because I have 335 parts, from a wrecked car. I have a 330 that has the DISA valves so I’d want to use my n54 intake to get rid of those. Already have intercooler, charge pipe, etc.
Nice if I have parts on hand they will work u just need the n52 exhaust manifold n54 won’t line up at all good luck man. There’s a rum runners racing Facebook page if u wanna post your progress 👍
@@rumrunnersracing for sure. Plan on buying the Eurocan manifold in the next couple weeks and starting
@@shawzymusicn54 does mount up, someone on youtube has a guide just search. But a 3 stage intake makes more power without the need for diff mods and such
Bro you turbo cars as a service ?
@@THAT-BOI-LOGNA not at the moment I clean machines at factory’s for a living 😅 I’m just addicted to making power so this is what I do with my spare time 😎. But I could easily install a complete setup ive done it for a few different bmws now the e39 on the channel I boosted as well.
Couple years ago I bought a custom turbo for the N52 from Facebook marketplace it was used which means it was working The guy said he crashed his car. That’s why he selling me the turbo kit. It’s been sitting for a while I wanna put it in But I don’t wanna blow up my engine
If you follow the steps it shouldn’t blow just remember to delete the ccv (crank case vent) if u leave it and boost the car you will blow oil seals right away because the ccv is attached to the intake manifold and the boost pressure from the intake will feed into the crank case and pressurize it. The ccv should run to a catch can or vented to atmosphere. Also tuning ide say is what blows these engines with a good tuner u would be set just don’t cheap out on anything fuel or engine management related improper fueling will blow your motor but that’s not just n52 that’s all cars. I didn’t know about the ccv and boosted my e46 first big drive I blew the seal out of the oil pan it wasent a good look 😆
drop the insta mate, Can you send me pics of the kit?
Lets test out your buddies new version n52 turbo exhaust manifold, i can put it on my car
We’re actually remaking the manifold but also making a jug to replicate them if your serious I could have a second one made I’ll ask my buddy and see what he would charge to make a second one. The issue is the stock flange we kept and welded is to thin to support the weight of the turbo with the excess heat. So we’re going with a 3/8’s thick flange to solve the issue 😎
@@rumrunnersracing leave me your email or # 🤝🤝
@@rumrunnersracing leave the contact for me
@@rumrunnersracingI am dead serious about buying one! Please get with me and we can make it happen. Been debating selling the n52b30 e60 and going n54, but I don’t feel like DEALING with the n54 issues. The n52 is much more reliable. If you can come up with a decent price I will buy today!
@@ts-fam513 the second ecu is being made right now the design was sent to the board house we’re waiting for them to send the first one back so we can test it before putting the order for a few batches I will update on this channel when they are being released and with a price point. In the meantime you could email about a pre order to my tuner he’s making them www.popformance.com is his website the contact options will lead u to him with enough ppl wanting pre order might speed things up 👍
What kind of turbo you running?
It’s a gt35 off of Amazon I think it was 250$ other do been going strong over a year now
will it be the same as n52b25? or is there too much of a difference
There’s almost no difference besides being a 2.5l and the b30 is the 3.0l it’s just slightly bigger the parts will be the same process will be exactly same just will make a little less power overall being slightly displacement but Itill still make the power 💪😎
@@rumrunnersracing ahh thanks I see you're from ontraio where at?
@@carton587 Stratford area u?
Could I run this set up in a 325xi it’s an N52 2006
Yes you can it will be all the same except you will have a transmission cooler to cork around at the front usually you just slip it behind the intercooler. I’m filming my part 2 of the series later today. I will cover vac line routing oil feed and drain and relocating the coolant expansion tank. And a bit of exhaust routing. So Itill be a lot of info packed into part 2. Then part 3 is when I get my exhaust manifold back from being repaired then I’ll film everything getting installed it should help ppl planning their builds.
How much does this process cost?
You could get it done under 5k in parts depending that might include a base tune 🤔 I spent a bit extra on a few things like the injectors but there’s cheaper options the exhaust manifold is the hardest thing if you do the work yourself you can get where I’m at for 5grand I will make a list of all the things to buy in my next video I’m just waiting on my exhaust manifold to be remade with a stronger flange then I’ll continue the series and maybe give links to put together your own “kit”
@@rumrunnersracing is it worth it? on an n52. Thinking of taking this step on mine however don’t how much of a power difference it will make
@@SocietyBTW it’s worth it my car made 600whp on a hub dyno before dialing in the valvetronic so they can handle power. If your looking for a reliable 3-400whp I think 5k and some time is worth It. I did it because after u boost it parts are cheap maintenance is cheap but a 335i everything is expensive and hard to source not as many part outs available. A scrap yard n52 motor near me is 500$ so I don’t feel bad if I go too hard at the track and something blows. Where as 335i u blow the motor it’s hard to source another one and it won’t be anywhere near 500$
Don’t do it please people ..
The cylinders aren’t steel sleeved and cut … there cut and coated then u have the piston rings , the valves aren’t stiff enough , the main bearings aren’t strong enough so u may spin the crank after a couple hundred miles or couple thousand depends if it’s tuned on the rich or lean side preferably u would want to be a little rich so u don’t blow the engine ofc ..
Just so your aware this cars been boosted going on 2 years no issues if you do it right it will last. And these motors are a magnesium block and it IS steel sleeved. And how are the valves not stiff enough my car is the ONLY one to use boost and keep valvetronic functionality. If you don’t do your research probably don’t chime in your 0.2 cents 🤷♂️
Stock piston rings will expand and touch under a few conditions the car has to be running lean af and have high cylinder temps if you have proper fueling and your running a decent intercooler keeping an eye on engine temps and intake temps, and have knowledge of how this stuff works also get it tuned by a professional Theyr fine if you run rich and advance the timing enough will blow the motor anyways all cars are like this tuning and fueling is key. The weak point is the magnesium block itself dosent heat cycle well it’s strong but brittle as it dosent expand under heat like iron blocks do magnesium shatters like glass. But regardless how many ppl have u seen actually blow out the rotating assembly by boosting? And as for the sleeves if it’s not steel what do u think they used steel sleeved ls cylinders is the standard. Do your research before u try to convince ppl to go to a dealership and not build their own projects 👍.
@@rumrunnersracing ur motor is 1 out of a million bro not all are made the same
@@rumrunnersracing I never told anyone to go buy a boosted car I said don’t do it .. completely different bro
@@rumrunnersracing to each there own bro lmk how she holds up for u in a few more months or years
@@mtbridingog9083my motor is a stock n52b30 most 3 series run this nothing special stock internals I’ve never opened this motor all stock 120k on the clock it’s not putting in proper supporting mods that blow the engine that’s y I mention the rising rate fuel pressure regulator that not many boosted bmw guys run without it at higher boost your injectors fail to atomize the fuel properly due to cylinder back pressure in this case that pressure is boost the more u run the higher the fuel pressure needs to be to maintain consistent injector flow. Keep posted I’ll let u know how it holds up been boosted going on 2 years first drift events are coming up 👍 just check compression before boosting low compression your motors trash before u even start 🤷♂️ so much could go wrong but the platform itself has proven to be pretty solid if you know your stuff that’s what I’m trying to pass on here the knowledge so ppl don’t blow up their cars just looking to get over the 300whp mark.
Im sure u hear this alot but why don't you buy a 335i. they're cheap and plentiful
They are Not that cheap where I am also
Maintaining them isint cheap even doing the work yourself. The n54 parts are pricey injectors cost a small Fortune alone to replace. you have to get them walnut blasted every so often and The turbos are a nightmare to get to dropping the front subframe is a real pain. Where I am 335i is easy 7-11k if you want a half decent manual that runs u can get the auto cheaper but who wants that 🤷♂️ although the n54 is a great engine where I am n52’s are everywhere n54’s are far and few between.
@@rumrunnersracing Ive put 17ts on my e60 535i and done every maintenance there is to do. It's def not for beginners but you get a reliable 500whp easy