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I’m not sure what kind of inspection he did, but if there’s termites in the crawlspace, the crawlspace definitely has to be treated. Nice to see the young man take the field seriously.
Eventually The termites would have to cross the Barrier to get to the colony. Even if it’s a handful of termites making it back, they can still infect the colony
I love the way you explained the process! You made it really easy and simple. Id like to ask though how you will go about the treatment if your house is surrounded by concrete? Thanks Daniel! 👌👌👌
Thank you Daniel!! Keep it up. I’m a single woman that purchased a new house. And I just find out what the home inspector said about the termites that I had. Is most worse and I’m determined to do the job myself getting well prepared first. You are fantastic explaining. Thank you!! Blessings
I must mention that when you trench do so in 6 inches deep x 10 ft long section, and also have a pump sprayer to treat the back fill soil before backfilling your trenches. It is super important to treat the soil and trenches when the soil is nice and dry and hasn't been rained on prior. This ensures the soil fully absorbs the treatment. And for concrete slabs, they are drilled roughly 8-10 inches deep every 24 inches along where the slab meets the structure. After drilling, the holes are injected with the termidor, then plugged afterwards.
4 gallons per ten linear feet per foot of depth. So do the math! A house can take hundred of gallons.m when treated properly (foundation block voids, pier voids, below concrete slabs etc) both sides of foundation walls.
Hi, what would you recommend for a large building that is built into the side of a steep hill? Can't really dig a trench up a cliff face, so should just try and work around it the best we can?
Hey Dan, If I have termites inside crawl space would I use a dry powder on the joists and the liquid on parameter? or what would you suggest. termites were located below a window that was not sealed properly. I cut out all rotted wood when I ran into them. Thanks for all you videos.
So we just purchased a mobile home and we're seeing termite droppings inside the house. If we treat the crawl space is that enough or do we need some kind of treatment inside the walls too?
Hi Bro. I checked online, and I found a few different terminedor products with different prices. Which one is the right one that I need to buy ? Thank you in advance for your help.
Thanks for this awesome video. I’ll be doing it myself trying to save some money. My question is - when it’s the best time to do the termite treatment? Do I do it now (NY weather) or do I wait for spring? Thanks again for your great content.
Hi, the best time is in summer, but you have a problem now, start quickly, make the trench, and apply 4 gallons every 10 feet long. 0.80 oz. For each gallon, you need 3.20 oz. to complete 4 gallons. good luck.
Can you *please* do a video on the environmental hazards of different pesticides and/or what makes the products you use less toxic to the environment or potentially hazardous for leaching into the property's groundwater‼️ *_Especially_* if there's a well & pump on the property used in watering edible crops/water for animals‼️
Shut it @@thenockless,....is that all you can do?.....nasty comments from the attiic room of your parents house,....I bet you're not even as close as Handsome as this guy is.😀
Thx you for making another great video. The back of my house when raining the water stay close and some goto my foundation and on the left side as well. When I pour termidor sc down around the foundation does the rain wash it off? What's a better way to make termidor more effective?
Yes you need to make sure there is no rain water flooding the area. Heavy flooding won't completely wash away the chemical, but it will reduce the effectiveness long term. You should consider adding some drains or fixing the gutters or something like that
So Dan if I do it according to one of your other videos like just the permitter around the house or I must do in the crawl space.. sorry Dan I typed this before watching the video.. i Toight ur gonna dig under the house and around the piers
@@DanTheBugMan Thank you, last question. My house is a rectangle and the garage is on one side. Do I need to trench around it completely or can I treat it like an outdoor porch and just go 3-4 ft into it on each side like you said do for porches?
Dan, my home is surrounded on all sides by cement, in varying widths, so that I'm unable to trench anywhere closer than 3 feet, and only in a few areas. I do have a very limited crawlspace, would that be my only option to apply termidor?
I’m a fellow exterminator. Always wear your PPE even when no one is watching. Your safety is always the most important thing about doing a treatment. Great job though kid.
I saw a termidor HE. Which goes down with 2/3 gallons and 3.2 approx w less digging depth. My crawlspace is low..so, if i can hunch down, i can easily dig around that crawl space with a smaller hand tool, i go down w less inches deep x wide. Read the instructions to verify depth and application. Outside, i would for sure dig, 6x 6. .read up on termidor HE. product maybe , more expensive, but overall, less because u have labor
Granules work, as long as they have either fipronil or imidacloprid. It takes about a month. I had termites on my back fence eating the whole thing up, I laid down a bag of BioAdvance granules after trenching under the fence and the termites have been completely exterminated. It also killed a lot of other pests so I am satisfied. I'll be laying this stuff down every single month for the forseeable future.
@@NordicaTundraI'm not sure, my approach has been to lay granules all over my entire front, back and side yards and fill my walls with foam. My termite problem is solved for now but where I live it is something I worry about constantly. During the spring and summer months I am putting some kind of poison somewhere every month. I also foam my fences and that does the trick. The reason the granules work is because the plants absorb the poison and that is where the termites get their water from.
Hi Dan, thank you for the informative video! You did mentioned there is no need to dig for the patio. What about one side of my house is finished with concrete slap (52 ft L x 8 ft W) from my house to the neighbor property. Would you recommend drilling injection holes or just ignore that area?
Wow can’t believe he just said to ignore this area but that is completely wrong. You absolutely do need to drill holes and use a sub slab injector to treat under the slab. Trust me on this. I have been doing termite work for 13 years. This guy is doing a termite treatment that will absolutely not keep termites out
@@jakemunoz2400 Jake, what I've been told is that chemicals like termidor and Taurus don't need a 100% barrier. This is because the chemical is a transfer ingredient (fipronil). Termite colonies are always foraging in the soil, therefore the colony will come in contact with the chemical at some point. Do you disagree?
@@DanTheBugMan Sorry to be so harsh but no that isn’t true. It is true that termites are constantly foraging and that they branch off into multiple directions kind of like the roots of a tree. The problem is if one of those branches comes up the area where you didn’t treat( like the joint between the patio and the slab the house is sitting on) then they will get into the house and start eating. Once that branch finds that food source they will continue going there and not looking other places. Now one of the other branches could get into the chemical but there is absolutely no guarantee that they will. Also even if another branch does get into the chemical there is no telling how long it will take that branch to get in it. Meanwhile the branch that didn’t get into the chemical is steadily eating the house. Also Termidor does not always kill the entire colony. It is a great chemical don’t get me wrong but not full proof. Also not trenching and treating around the piers is a big no no. If the crawlspace of a house is inaccessible then you definitely need to use bait stations
For areas where you can't dig, such as concrete driveways and patios, you should drill through the concrete every foot and inject the fipronil/Termidor through those holes with a pressure injector. It's not nearly as hard as you might think. With a proper rotary hammer, either rented or purchased, drilling a hole through the typical slab only takes a few seconds. After you inject the termiticide through the hole then you can patch it with concrete patch and you'll hardly notice the drill spots. Some people even just plug them so that they can access those holes again without having to redrill.
I’m gearing up for Termite season come May. I’m loading up my “troops” so I can relax while they swarm my neighborhood. Not this year, termites. Better to see one than to see a house party full of termites. Do you know how to avoid seeing termites in a light fixture?
Good to plan ahead!! Well, if there are termites in a light fixture, that means that they have gotten inside the home. I would do a inspection around the baseboards and crawlspace to see if there is an active colony first. Then if there is treat for the termites
@@DanTheBugMan That's not true. Just because you have dead termites in a light fixture doesn't mean you have termites in your home. Termites fly around trying to find the next place to build a colony. They come from trees, wood piles, your neighbors' homes, etc. But they are attracted to light so will fly into a fixture. Fortunately they aren't real smart and oftentimes can't get out of the fixture and die because the heat of the light dries them up.
@@DanTheBugMan Termites came out last spring and when it got cold they went away and now they are back. But we're they still eating away at my house during the winter or were they gone?
@@davidjones5059 @David Jones if sprayed as a foundation treatment but it looks like he did the trenching method. In perfect conditions it may last up to 10 years for subterranean termites but from my experience it lasts about 6-7 years.
If my house has been treated in the past - can I 'top dress' with the appropriate strength and amount without digging a trench? Just pour it, or spray it against the house?
I seem to have termite visitors that fipronil does not kill. They are dancing around and partying on inside my timber tops. spraying a few times with different concentrations has not worked. Super termites?
@@DanTheBugMan yeah. I have dry termites at my house. I’m having a hard time finding a vid that shows a straight forward way to treat them. I’ve had 1 estimate for 2,900$ 🤦🏼. I have 7 areas (on the exterior eaves of my house and one area upstairs under the flooring. I found four little holes coming up through the flooring. The exterior areas are small and the holes in the floor upstairs are in one location so I can’t see how this termite company can charge me $2900 for treating. I just need to find the right plan and understand how to treat the termites and I’ll save myself a boatload of money.
@@damienonar1mHey bud there are several things. If you are going to fight them yourself there are products like timbor and bora care the will do the job. Also temperature but that is expensive as well. The borate products are made to soak in to where the termites are feeding and living
the only reason I do this is because if applied by that formula, it would take about 100 gallons of treatment. and aint no one got time for mixing that much lol. The only downside of doing it this way is that its not dispersed as much in the soil, but should be the same effectiveness
@@DanTheBugMan It also depends on your soil. If it has heavy clay content, for example, absorption won't be as good as in more loose soil, so take that into consideration.
@@NordicaTundra I have high clay where live. Just dig a little deeper and let it soak as much as possible. It won't be as easy as all the videos you see on YT with soft soil, but it will work. Then soak the top after you back fill what you dug out and then spray up the walls every quarter with taurus SC and a few other things you can use. Digging is hard work, but you can do it. I did the perimeter of my house myself. Easily 100 gallons of more. Don't half ass it like this guy did.
Do you know much about drywood termites? I live in Southern Utah, and I am about to get my house tented and fumigated because multiple spot treatments have failed. I asked the technician if there way anything I could do to prevent another drywood termite infestation, and he said he'd be lying to me if there was. Is there really nothing that can be done to help prevent drywood termites?
Unfortunately I’m not an expert on dry wood termites. They aren’t in my area. However usually tenting is a last resort. Has the company stated why the spot treatments haven’t worked? The chemicals the apply should kill the colony
@@DanTheBugMan To make a long story short, I bought my house back in 2008, paid $400 for a home inspection (which of course didn't show termites), and 1 year later after I moved in I started getting kickout holes with frass. I did a spot treatment and didn't see them again for a while. A year later, more kickout holes and frass this time along 2 walls of the house. Spot treatment again, and didn't see any for a few years. Then last year, more kickout holes and frass, this time along 3 sides of my house, and the kickout holes are popping up very fast and more frequent this year. They said I have reached a point beyond spot treatment, and recommended fumigation. I am terrified of them causing structural damage to the house, and how fast they are making kickout holes in my drywall. There are 2 new piles of frass outside the house now too, and they are quite big. I think there's a chance the previous owners knew there was a problem, and now the problem is mine. I bought the home as a "short-sale" during the housing crash, and short-sale homes are sold as-is, so there is no recourse for problems. I guess if anything, I'll have peace of mind after the fumigation that I have at least killed the termites and halted any damage they are doing for now. They are giving me a 2 year guarantee on the fumigation. There are only 2 companies in my area that fumigate, and they had the best warranty, and they've been in business for over 40 years so that's why I went with them. The other company wanted an extra $800 on top of their quote, and only guaranteed for 1 year, and they haven't been in business very long.
@@petef.4361 Wow man that's frustrating. But it sounds like you made a good decision with the treatment. The 2 year guarantee is important. Make sure they are checking it once a year. Have you been able to locate how much damage the termites have done? One thought that came to mind is that it is possible that each year you unluckily get a new termite colony, even after you kill the old one from last year. But if the spot treatments didn't work correctly it could have been the same colony the whole time
@@DanTheBugMan Yes you are right, it could be either new colonies each year or the same colony. I am for sure going to follow your advice and get yearly checks at bare minimum. My home is a stucco single story, no basement or crawlspace, directly on concrete foundation, and tile roof. So I think the only way to know how much damage is inside, is if myself (or a company I hired to do it) cut small holes in the drywall around the house and used an inspection camera to see, or they could cut big holes to get better access. Luckily I've had two separate pest control companies tell me, that based on initial observations, it's unlikely I have structural damage yet. One of them told me that typically in a house like mine, I would start to see actual cracks in the drywall if the damage started to get serious. So after the fumigation is done, I'll have to decide if I really want to start making holes in the wall. I am almost afraid to look to be honest :(
@@petef.4361 I don't make it a habit of chiming into other UA-camr's channels, but since Dan said he is not familiar with drywood termites, I thought he may not mind a bit of assistance. One pro to another so to speak. I do know a lot about drywood termites and I can tell you that fumigation is the only way to get rid of them for sure. That being said, you should know that the gas they use has no residual action at all and so you can literally get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. In fact, it is almost a certainty that you WILL get infested with a year after the fumigation. That is because your neighbors' also have drywood termites and they will attack again when they swarm from your neighbors' homes. The reason companies can get away with those useless guarantees is because it takes between four to seven years before a new batch of drywood termites can mature to the point where they will swarm. Since, most of the time, you don't know that you have them until they start to come out of your walls or woodwork, the fumigation companies know that you are not likely to discover them for at least a year or two. They know full well that you are going to have them within a year, but they are not going to share that information with you. All is not lost though. There is a way to prevent new infestations, but it is something that you must do yourself and you must do it every three months. I don't mean to pitch one of my videos on Dan's channel. Kind of bad form, but I this will be really helpful to you, so I'm hoping that Dan does not mind. I have what I believe is the only video on the web that will show you how to prevent a drywood termite infestation and I will give you a link for it. You should start this treatment a few days before you fumigate and then do it every three months after that. If you fail to do the prevention, then you will find yourself fumigating every several years. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. How to prevent drywood termites video: ua-cam.com/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/v-deo.html
@@DanTheBugMan Is there is a difference between putting Taurus in one gallon water jugs and shaking it and pouring it in as opposed to a big 4 to 5 gallon big bucket 🪣?
We had two people come over and give us a quote. They both told us we needed to remove the foam insulation from under our home. We spent thousands on this leaving us with not enough ($3000) for treatment. They could have done this without going in our crawlspace? I am so stressed out knowing this. 😩
Why not go all the way around the patio or “porch”? Wouldn’t a barrier around the entire home and patio be ideal? What’s a reliable site or shop that I can purchase these chemicals? Don’t want to get ripped off by a fake company or get non legit product.
It’s supposed to be put next to the footer of the home. Not just some barrier in the soil. That patio and any concrete that’s next to the home has to be drilled every 12” and chemical sub-slab injected
Okay I know you said we shouldn't have any questions but first of all why would you tell people they don't need to read the label? Why would you tell people that it doesn't matter how you measure it as long as you use that whole bottle? The label directions are there for a reason and if you read the label you would know that you apply 4 gallons for every 10 linear feet not what I saw was approximately 5 gallons for about 30 plus feet ? Why would you not use PPE? Why would you not drill and treat the abudding slabs it's a very common place for termites to enter the structure? Why would you not inspect the crawl space ? also very common area for termites to enter the structure up the supporting piers are in the middle of the home and your chemical treatment is never going to touch it. Why did you not use the proper equipment and use a Rodding tool? Why would you not incorporate the backfill with the Termidor so that you get even coverage?
As a licensed professional I would always recommend to anyone who touches a product to read the label first wear the proper clothing and ppe before mixing and applying any products period they are harmful to your health and safety and if applied incorrectly you may be in a lot of trouble. (READ THE LABEL)
6-7ft tall c space to only treat for termites? Lol man we trench in anything about 16”. Also this method won’t won’t if you do in fact have an established colony in the crawlspace or in substructure elements with moisture above 16-20%. I’ve had to retreat countless terminix spot treatments because they just waived and ignored the c space.
"For use only by individuals/firms licensed or registered by the state to apply termiticide and/or general pest control products" - from the front of the label.
Why do you guys still do termite jobs like that? Its so much more work,takes some much more time and doesn't work as well..just curious if theres a reason
@@elisawaldman there's a bunch of different bait systems that go in the ground and work way better...sentricon being the most known..yes I'm literally doing pest control at the moment and commenting on it ..jeez I'm lame..lol..lame with a lot of money tho!!! Cuz I work hahddddddd
@@jetfryl9831 a bunch of professional people are suggesting a "one-time injection" and application in multiple places under and around the house that will kill and then prevent the return of termites for x years....what are your thoughts about that instead of ongoing bait systems?
@@jetfryl9831 Bait is fine and dandy if you don't already have an infestation, but if they're already inside the building you need to treat the perimeter to kill termites traveling between building and colony... and injecting the wood inside might not hurt either.
yea you didn't do a good job. you just made a termite bridge over the product when you filled the trench back in with soil that wasn't treated. also for a crawl space you have to treat every support block or brick otherwise they can build on those.
Just to let people know, This is not a full liquid termite treatment to a structure (EPLI), no drilling every 18 inches to the attached slabs?, areas with expansion joints? or treating any of the piers/block voids in the crawlspace? DIY should be left to pest control, not termite prevention. Like he said in the video leave the termite treatment prevention to the professionals. Also, treating with a bucket?, Termidor HE (High Efficiency) calls for 2 gallons per 10 linear feet, how are you factoring that with a bucket? No hate to Dan, just letting people know that want a full treatment/bond on their home.
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If you buy any products through this link I get a small percentage of the sale :) The “DIY Pest” website sells professional pest control products to the general public. Use any product made by CSI Pest and you will be sure to get a great product and deal!
Its nice to see a young man in a trade position.
dan you are sooo informative in all your vids. really makes it intersting to listin to you. rhanks for all the help. keep up the good work.
Thanks dirtylegs! I was pretty happy with how this one turned out
@@DanTheBugMan you watch mark felton?
I’m not sure what kind of inspection he did, but if there’s termites in the crawlspace, the crawlspace definitely has to be treated. Nice to see the young man take the field seriously.
He’s setting people up for failure and his if he was in Texas TDA would have his head lol
Eventually The termites would have to cross the Barrier to get to the colony. Even if it’s a handful of termites making it back, they can still infect the colony
You’re rad! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Excellent info!
Looking Great Dan.👍😉
I’m trying my best 🙂
I love the way you explained the process! You made it really easy and simple. Id like to ask though how you will go about the treatment if your house is surrounded by concrete? Thanks Daniel! 👌👌👌
Thank you Daniel!! Keep it up. I’m a single woman that purchased a new house. And I just find out what the home inspector said about the termites that I had. Is most worse and I’m determined to do the job myself getting well prepared first. You are fantastic explaining. Thank you!! Blessings
You should read the label then because this gentleman does not have it all correct. Fantastic product tho!
Read the label. Hire a pro. Don’t let your huge investment get eaten up cause you want to save $1,000 bucks
Don’t listen to these two 👆🏼
Thanks for great explanation!
How often a house needs treatment?
appreciate you brother, god bless you and your family.
I must mention that when you trench do so in 6 inches deep x 10 ft long section, and also have a pump sprayer to treat the back fill soil before backfilling your trenches. It is super important to treat the soil and trenches when the soil is nice and dry and hasn't been rained on prior. This ensures the soil fully absorbs the treatment. And for concrete slabs, they are drilled roughly 8-10 inches deep every 24 inches along where the slab meets the structure. After drilling, the holes are injected with the termidor, then plugged afterwards.
What if you have railroad ties along the structure can you apply more termidor? What's the best product to use in basements and garages?
Label says no more than 16” apart. Label is law
4 gallons per ten linear feet per foot of depth. So do the math! A house can take hundred of gallons.m when treated properly (foundation block voids, pier voids, below concrete slabs etc) both sides of foundation walls.
4 gallons of the MIX !!
3.2oz for 10 ft
Mix accurately !
In Missouri you drill every 12", 4 gals of finished solution per 10 ft. per foot of depth
Very well said thanks.
Hi, what would you recommend for a large building that is built into the side of a steep hill? Can't really dig a trench up a cliff face, so should just try and work around it the best we can?
Hey Dan, If I have termites inside crawl space would I use a dry powder on the joists and the liquid on parameter? or what would you suggest. termites were located below a window that was not sealed properly. I cut out all rotted wood when I ran into them. Thanks for all you videos.
From BALI INDONESIA like... good job for prevention
If I have gravel around the house can I dig the ditch outside of the gravel or it has to be against the house?
Hey dan, i can't get taurus, or termidor here in sc . Do you have any recommendations
how long does it last, do i have to do this every year ?
So we just purchased a mobile home and we're seeing termite droppings inside the house. If we treat the crawl space is that enough or do we need some kind of treatment inside the walls too?
How often do you have to do this?
Hi Dan, where do i buy that termidor chemical?
Hi Bro.
I checked online, and I found a few different terminedor products with different prices. Which one is the right one that I need to buy ? Thank you in advance for your help.
Thanks for this awesome video. I’ll be doing it myself trying to save some money. My question is - when it’s the best time to do the termite treatment? Do I do it now (NY weather) or do I wait for spring? Thanks again for your great content.
Hi, the best time is in summer, but you have a problem now, start quickly, make the trench, and apply 4 gallons every 10 feet long. 0.80 oz. For each gallon, you need 3.20 oz. to complete 4 gallons.
good luck.
Will you use this for active termites
What do you do on a slope?
Do you ever have to go into a classes to treat termites? I’ve been offered a job as pest control but cannot imagine doing that
could you hypothetically just saturate the soil from a diy sprayer to avoid digging the trench or destroying existing landscaping?
Can you *please* do a video on the environmental hazards of different pesticides and/or what makes the products you use less toxic to the environment or potentially hazardous for leaching into the property's groundwater‼️ *_Especially_* if there's a well & pump on the property used in watering edible crops/water for animals‼️
Always be safe when handling pesticides and wear gloves like I didn’t do :)
Nerd
Shut it @@thenockless,....is that all you can do?.....nasty comments from the attiic room of your parents house,....I bet you're not even as close as Handsome as this guy is.😀
Safety glasses too!!
@@joeytse1862 yes!! those I tend to neglect also :/
Uh oh calling your state chemist ! 😉
Thx you for making another great video. The back of my house when raining the water stay close and some goto my foundation and on the left side as well. When I pour termidor sc down around the foundation does the rain wash it off? What's a better way to make termidor more effective?
Yes you need to make sure there is no rain water flooding the area. Heavy flooding won't completely wash away the chemical, but it will reduce the effectiveness long term. You should consider adding some drains or fixing the gutters or something like that
Nice job but you are supposed to dig 6 inches into the dirt and 6 inches away from the house correct?
What if you can’t trench all the way around the exterior?
Hi, love your videos.
Is late summer early fall a good time to do this or is there a specific time of the year to do it?
Thanks
Thanks! Any time of year works, just try not to do it right before it rains (1-4 hours)
How often does one treat? Is this safe for pets?
Man this is why I do the pump sprayer and steel
Rod method. Screw trenching like this if I’m doing it as a homeowner (soil depending)
So Dan if I do it according to one of your other videos like just the permitter around the house or I must do in the crawl space.. sorry Dan I typed this before watching the video.. i Toight ur gonna dig under the house and around the piers
What about wisdom tc flowable?
Won't this get washed away with rain?
Where. Can i buy the product.
Hi, Dan. the termites swarming are annoying at my house, so how do you get rid of termites and what are using?
We use a soil treatment like I did in this video
Thanks for the video. If I have active termites is there anything you would recommend to spray inside the crawl space as well?
You’re welcome! Yes if you can use this termidor in the crawlspace also
@@DanTheBugMan Thank you, last question. My house is a rectangle and the garage is on one side. Do I need to trench around it completely or can I treat it like an outdoor porch and just go 3-4 ft into it on each side like you said do for porches?
Nice red door. Really pops.
Dan, my home is surrounded on all sides by cement, in varying widths, so that I'm unable to trench anywhere closer than 3 feet, and only in a few areas. I do have a very limited crawlspace, would that be my only option to apply termidor?
You have to drill the cement and apply the chemical. You can also use sentricon devices around home but not my favorite.
What is the name of this pesticide?
Excellent vidoe you saved me 4000
they quoted you $4000??
@@evanmila4048 not US dollar it’s like 2500 USA money
Where can I buy termidor/Taurus sc?
I’m a fellow exterminator. Always wear your PPE even when no one is watching. Your safety is always the most important thing about doing a treatment. Great job though kid.
🙏🏻🙏🏻
Some properties have their own well- does the fipronil filter down into the well water? Thanks-
Yes !
Dan, aren't you supposed to be using 4 gallons every 10 ft rather than every 25?
Thank you
Yw!!
I saw a termidor HE. Which goes down with 2/3 gallons and 3.2 approx w less digging depth. My crawlspace is low..so, if i can hunch down, i can easily dig around that crawl space with a smaller hand tool, i go down w less inches deep x wide. Read the instructions to verify depth and application. Outside, i would for sure dig, 6x 6.
.read up on termidor HE.
product maybe , more expensive, but overall, less because u have labor
Granules work, as long as they have either fipronil or imidacloprid. It takes about a month. I had termites on my back fence eating the whole thing up, I laid down a bag of BioAdvance granules after trenching under the fence and the termites have been completely exterminated. It also killed a lot of other pests so I am satisfied. I'll be laying this stuff down every single month for the forseeable future.
I'll bet those granules won't work with clay soil.
@@NordicaTundraI'm not sure, my approach has been to lay granules all over my entire front, back and side yards and fill my walls with foam. My termite problem is solved for now but where I live it is something I worry about constantly. During the spring and summer months I am putting some kind of poison somewhere every month. I also foam my fences and that does the trick. The reason the granules work is because the plants absorb the poison and that is where the termites get their water from.
I can't find the Termidor in my area of California, what other treatment do you suggest?
Look up a product called Taurus
Dan would this be the exact way to treat for termites in a double wide mobile home?
I forgot to tell you I live in the south Florida area
Hi Dan, thank you for the informative video! You did mentioned there is no need to dig for the patio. What about one side of my house is finished with concrete slap (52 ft L x 8 ft W) from my house to the neighbor property. Would you recommend drilling injection holes or just ignore that area?
Thanks for watching! If that is the only side of the house that the soil is not accessible, then it would definitely be okay to ignore that area.
Wow can’t believe he just said to ignore this area but that is completely wrong. You absolutely do need to drill holes and use a sub slab injector to treat under the slab. Trust me on this. I have been doing termite work for 13 years. This guy is doing a termite treatment that will absolutely not keep termites out
@@jakemunoz2400 Jake, what I've been told is that chemicals like termidor and Taurus don't need a 100% barrier. This is because the chemical is a transfer ingredient (fipronil). Termite colonies are always foraging in the soil, therefore the colony will come in contact with the chemical at some point. Do you disagree?
@@DanTheBugMan Sorry to be so harsh but no that isn’t true. It is true that termites are constantly foraging and that they branch off into multiple directions kind of like the roots of a tree. The problem is if one of those branches comes up the area where you didn’t treat( like the joint between the patio and the slab the house is sitting on) then they will get into the house and start eating. Once that branch finds that food source they will continue going there and not looking other places. Now one of the other branches could get into the chemical but there is absolutely no guarantee that they will. Also even if another branch does get into the chemical there is no telling how long it will take that branch to get in it. Meanwhile the branch that didn’t get into the chemical is steadily eating the house. Also Termidor does not always kill the entire colony. It is a great chemical don’t get me wrong but not full proof. Also not trenching and treating around the piers is a big no no. If the crawlspace of a house is inaccessible then you definitely need to use bait stations
For areas where you can't dig, such as concrete driveways and patios, you should drill through the concrete every foot and inject the fipronil/Termidor through those holes with a pressure injector. It's not nearly as hard as you might think. With a proper rotary hammer, either rented or purchased, drilling a hole through the typical slab only takes a few seconds. After you inject the termiticide through the hole then you can patch it with concrete patch and you'll hardly notice the drill spots. Some people even just plug them so that they can access those holes again without having to redrill.
I’m gearing up for Termite season come May. I’m loading up my “troops” so I can relax while they swarm my neighborhood. Not this year, termites. Better to see one than to see a house party full of termites. Do you know how to avoid seeing termites in a light fixture?
Good to plan ahead!! Well, if there are termites in a light fixture, that means that they have gotten inside the home. I would do a inspection around the baseboards and crawlspace to see if there is an active colony first. Then if there is treat for the termites
@@DanTheBugMan That's not true. Just because you have dead termites in a light fixture doesn't mean you have termites in your home. Termites fly around trying to find the next place to build a colony. They come from trees, wood piles, your neighbors' homes, etc. But they are attracted to light so will fly into a fixture. Fortunately they aren't real smart and oftentimes can't get out of the fixture and die because the heat of the light dries them up.
Hi Dan,
Can you advise on what’s the best time to do the treatment? Summers, winter, autumn or spring?
Any time of year is fine! The product will last about 10 years. Termites are most active when it’s warm
@@DanTheBugMan Termites came out last spring and when it got cold they went away and now they are back. But we're they still eating away at my house during the winter or were they gone?
@@DanTheBugMan Termidor SC description says: Prevention Up to 6 months, where 10 years came from?
@@davidjones5059 @David Jones if sprayed as a foundation treatment but it looks like he did the trenching method. In perfect conditions it may last up to 10 years for subterranean termites but from my experience it lasts about 6-7 years.
Do you like the Termidor SC better than the Taurus SC or are they the same? Thanks 😊.
Same active ingredient
@@michaelmerck7576 thank you.
Can this be spray to the wood in the attic? Thanks
nope, just soil
If my house has been treated in the past - can I 'top dress' with the appropriate strength and amount without digging a trench? Just pour it, or spray it against the house?
No. Read the label. Label is law
Is there a spray bottle method for apartments?
There’s no spray bottles I know of. Just soil treatments
Interesting 🤔
I seem to have termite visitors that fipronil does not kill. They are dancing around and partying on inside my timber tops. spraying a few times with different concentrations has not worked. Super termites?
Ever heard of Boracare?
@@caslitt3435 not heard of Boracare. Anyway, actually it just took some time but the infestation is gone and hasn't returned.
Im guessing 12-14 metres length property, by 6-8 metres wide.
My house has a pool，shall I treat it around the pool?
Probably not. Just out around the concrete an extra 5-10 feet from the house will work
Does this work for the flying termites?
No
Unfortunately my house is surrounded by pavers and there is no soil to dig trenches.
Lift up first course of pavers around house,treat soil and replace pavers
Great vid on how to treat for subterranean termites but what about treating for dry termites?
that's a totally different treatment!
@@DanTheBugMan yeah. I have dry termites at my house. I’m having a hard time finding a vid that shows a straight forward way to treat them. I’ve had 1 estimate for 2,900$ 🤦🏼. I have 7 areas (on the exterior eaves of my house and one area upstairs under the flooring. I found four little holes coming up through the flooring. The exterior areas are small and the holes in the floor upstairs are in one location so I can’t see how this termite company can charge me $2900 for treating. I just need to find the right plan and understand how to treat the termites and I’ll save myself a boatload of money.
@@damienonar1mHey bud there are several things. If you are going to fight them yourself there are products like timbor and bora care the will do the job. Also temperature but that is expensive as well. The borate products are made to soak in to where the termites are feeding and living
Why do you use this formula instead of the recommended 4 gallon per 1.6 OZ. formula that Termidor suggests?
the only reason I do this is because if applied by that formula, it would take about 100 gallons of treatment. and aint no one got time for mixing that much lol. The only downside of doing it this way is that its not dispersed as much in the soil, but should be the same effectiveness
@@DanTheBugMan It also depends on your soil. If it has heavy clay content, for example, absorption won't be as good as in more loose soil, so take that into consideration.
@@fretbuzzly
I'm in Va with a greater than 40% clay content. I guess trenching AND the granules won't work then.😢
@@NordicaTundra I have high clay where live. Just dig a little deeper and let it soak as much as possible. It won't be as easy as all the videos you see on YT with soft soil, but it will work. Then soak the top after you back fill what you dug out and then spray up the walls every quarter with taurus SC and a few other things you can use. Digging is hard work, but you can do it. I did the perimeter of my house myself. Easily 100 gallons of more. Don't half ass it like this guy did.
Do you know much about drywood termites? I live in Southern Utah, and I am about to get my house tented and fumigated because multiple spot treatments have failed. I asked the technician if there way anything I could do to prevent another drywood termite infestation, and he said he'd be lying to me if there was. Is there really nothing that can be done to help prevent drywood termites?
Unfortunately I’m not an expert on dry wood termites. They aren’t in my area. However usually tenting is a last resort. Has the company stated why the spot treatments haven’t worked? The chemicals the apply should kill the colony
@@DanTheBugMan To make a long story short, I bought my house back in 2008, paid $400 for a home inspection (which of course didn't show termites), and 1 year later after I moved in I started getting kickout holes with frass. I did a spot treatment and didn't see them again for a while. A year later, more kickout holes and frass this time along 2 walls of the house. Spot treatment again, and didn't see any for a few years. Then last year, more kickout holes and frass, this time along 3 sides of my house, and the kickout holes are popping up very fast and more frequent this year. They said I have reached a point beyond spot treatment, and recommended fumigation. I am terrified of them causing structural damage to the house, and how fast they are making kickout holes in my drywall. There are 2 new piles of frass outside the house now too, and they are quite big. I think there's a chance the previous owners knew there was a problem, and now the problem is mine. I bought the home as a "short-sale" during the housing crash, and short-sale homes are sold as-is, so there is no recourse for problems. I guess if anything, I'll have peace of mind after the fumigation that I have at least killed the termites and halted any damage they are doing for now. They are giving me a 2 year guarantee on the fumigation. There are only 2 companies in my area that fumigate, and they had the best warranty, and they've been in business for over 40 years so that's why I went with them. The other company wanted an extra $800 on top of their quote, and only guaranteed for 1 year, and they haven't been in business very long.
@@petef.4361 Wow man that's frustrating. But it sounds like you made a good decision with the treatment. The 2 year guarantee is important. Make sure they are checking it once a year. Have you been able to locate how much damage the termites have done? One thought that came to mind is that it is possible that each year you unluckily get a new termite colony, even after you kill the old one from last year. But if the spot treatments didn't work correctly it could have been the same colony the whole time
@@DanTheBugMan Yes you are right, it could be either new colonies each year or the same colony. I am for sure going to follow your advice and get yearly checks at bare minimum. My home is a stucco single story, no basement or crawlspace, directly on concrete foundation, and tile roof. So I think the only way to know how much damage is inside, is if myself (or a company I hired to do it) cut small holes in the drywall around the house and used an inspection camera to see, or they could cut big holes to get better access. Luckily I've had two separate pest control companies tell me, that based on initial observations, it's unlikely I have structural damage yet. One of them told me that typically in a house like mine, I would start to see actual cracks in the drywall if the damage started to get serious. So after the fumigation is done, I'll have to decide if I really want to start making holes in the wall. I am almost afraid to look to be honest :(
@@petef.4361 I don't make it a habit of chiming into other UA-camr's channels, but since Dan said he is not familiar with drywood termites, I thought he may not mind a bit of assistance. One pro to another so to speak. I do know a lot about drywood termites and I can tell you that fumigation is the only way to get rid of them for sure. That being said, you should know that the gas they use has no residual action at all and so you can literally get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. In fact, it is almost a certainty that you WILL get infested with a year after the fumigation. That is because your neighbors' also have drywood termites and they will attack again when they swarm from your neighbors' homes. The reason companies can get away with those useless guarantees is because it takes between four to seven years before a new batch of drywood termites can mature to the point where they will swarm. Since, most of the time, you don't know that you have them until they start to come out of your walls or woodwork, the fumigation companies know that you are not likely to discover them for at least a year or two. They know full well that you are going to have them within a year, but they are not going to share that information with you. All is not lost though. There is a way to prevent new infestations, but it is something that you must do yourself and you must do it every three months. I don't mean to pitch one of my videos on Dan's channel. Kind of bad form, but I this will be really helpful to you, so I'm hoping that Dan does not mind. I have what I believe is the only video on the web that will show you how to prevent a drywood termite infestation and I will give you a link for it. You should start this treatment a few days before you fumigate and then do it every three months after that. If you fail to do the prevention, then you will find yourself fumigating every several years.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
How to prevent drywood termites video: ua-cam.com/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/v-deo.html
What happens if I put in twice the Taurus solution? 1.6 per gallon of water instead of .08.
I just ordered my 78 oz of Taurus so I want to use it all
That would be totally fine to use 1.6 oz per gallon. It just means that the chemical doesn't get diluted as much, but will be just effective
@@DanTheBugMan Great! Thank You!
Where are you and your company located?
@@MilkyWayGalaxyy you're welcome! we are out of Kentucky
@@DanTheBugMan Is there is a difference between putting Taurus in one gallon water jugs and shaking it and pouring it in as opposed to a big 4 to 5 gallon big bucket 🪣?
@@MilkyWayGalaxyy Still works
The most important thing is what type of termites are you treating? I did not hear you mention this at all.
We had two people come over and give us a quote. They both told us we needed to remove the foam insulation from under our home. We spent thousands on this leaving us with not enough ($3000) for treatment. They could have done this without going in our crawlspace? I am so stressed out knowing this. 😩
Dang! Yeah it’s good to treat a crawlspace but definitely not necessary
@@DanTheBugMan It definitely is neccessary
Can you show how to treat termites and trees.
Leave them in the trees or they will look for other sources of food like your house.
How do you spell"termadol"?
Pest control techs watching this rn: 👁️👄👁️
How long does this product keep killing the termites
up to 10 years or more depending on a number of factors
@@DanTheBugMan 👍
Don't you have to treat the soil that you cover the trench with
Why not go all the way around the patio or “porch”? Wouldn’t a barrier around the entire home and patio be ideal? What’s a reliable site or shop that I can purchase these chemicals? Don’t want to get ripped off by a fake company or get non legit product.
It’s supposed to be put next to the footer of the home. Not just some barrier in the soil. That patio and any concrete that’s next to the home has to be drilled every 12” and chemical sub-slab injected
I live in Nigeria
Okay I know you said we shouldn't have any questions but first of all why would you tell people they don't need to read the label? Why would you tell people that it doesn't matter how you measure it as long as you use that whole bottle? The label directions are there for a reason and if you read the label you would know that you apply 4 gallons for every 10 linear feet not what I saw was approximately 5 gallons for about 30 plus feet ? Why would you not use PPE? Why would you not drill and treat the abudding slabs it's a very common place for termites to enter the structure? Why would you not inspect the crawl space ? also very common area for termites to enter the structure up the supporting piers are in the middle of the home and your chemical treatment is never going to touch it. Why did you not use the proper equipment and use a Rodding tool? Why would you not incorporate the backfill with the Termidor so that you get even coverage?
Agreed
Termidor takes up to a full year to work.
As a licensed professional I would always recommend to anyone who touches a product to read the label first wear the proper clothing and ppe before mixing and applying any products period they are harmful to your health and safety and if applied incorrectly you may be in a lot of trouble. (READ THE LABEL)
You really read the 50 pg label of every product?? Nerd
6-7ft tall c space to only treat for termites? Lol man we trench in anything about 16”. Also this method won’t won’t if you do in fact have an established colony in the crawlspace or in substructure elements with moisture above 16-20%. I’ve had to retreat countless terminix spot treatments because they just waived and ignored the c space.
good point. what do you do if the crawl space is covered with gravel?
how do you handle an active subfloor and just infestation in an accessible crawlspace?
So many label violations in this video! That mixing segment!🤯🤯🤯
🐾🐾🐾
Into the soil and out of this world huh? - That's tragic 😂😶
Termite treatments are best left to professionals that have the equipment, ability and every day knowledge to do the job correctly.
I smashed the 'like' button and broke my laptop :( hehe jk
Couldn’t be any cuter if you tried.
😄
Agreed. Lol 😆
He forgot to treat the top of the soil but it’s all good
"For use only by individuals/firms licensed or registered by the state to apply termiticide and/or general pest control products" - from the front of the label.
Why do you guys still do termite jobs like that? Its so much more work,takes some much more time and doesn't work as well..just curious if theres a reason
what do you suggest?
@@elisawaldman there's a bunch of different bait systems that go in the ground and work way better...sentricon being the most known..yes I'm literally doing pest control at the moment and commenting on it ..jeez I'm lame..lol..lame with a lot of money tho!!! Cuz I work hahddddddd
@@jetfryl9831 a bunch of professional people are suggesting a "one-time injection" and application in multiple places under and around the house that will kill and then prevent the return of termites for x years....what are your thoughts about that instead of ongoing bait systems?
@@jetfryl9831 Bait is fine and dandy if you don't already have an infestation, but if they're already inside the building you need to treat the perimeter to kill termites traveling between building and colony... and injecting the wood inside might not hurt either.
This was absolutely painful to watch. Thank you for the info though.
Boots too clean lmao
yea you didn't do a good job. you just made a termite bridge over the product when you filled the trench back in with soil that wasn't treated. also for a crawl space you have to treat every support block or brick otherwise they can build on those.
Thanks for the feedback ;)
The termidor label doesn't call for the same requirements as some state requirements however In most states the label is the law
Just to let people know, This is not a full liquid termite treatment to a structure (EPLI), no drilling every 18 inches to the attached slabs?, areas with expansion joints? or treating any of the piers/block voids in the crawlspace? DIY should be left to pest control, not termite prevention. Like he said in the video leave the termite treatment prevention to the professionals. Also, treating with a bucket?, Termidor HE (High Efficiency) calls for 2 gallons per 10 linear feet, how are you factoring that with a bucket? No hate to Dan, just letting people know that want a full treatment/bond on their home.
You trying to run us out of business?
If I’m lucky
You shouldn’t be in business if this is how you do treatments
@@jakemunoz2400 agreed
Liquids suck..get senteicon or one of the others