BUY DanTheBugMan’s Recommended Products Here: shrsl.com/44ggr If you buy any products through this link I get a small percentage of the sale :) The “DIY Pest” website sells professional pest control products to the general public. Use any product made by CSI Pest and you will be sure to get a great product and deal!
Is this still the best place to buy the products? I can only find termidor sc in 20oz so if my home is 212 ln feet I need 68 oz so.. 4 bottles would be a little extra correct?
I’m not sure what kind of inspection he did, but if there’s termites in the crawlspace, the crawlspace definitely has to be treated. Nice to see the young man take the field seriously.
Eventually The termites would have to cross the Barrier to get to the colony. Even if it’s a handful of termites making it back, they can still infect the colony
I must mention that when you trench do so in 6 inches deep x 10 ft long section, and also have a pump sprayer to treat the back fill soil before backfilling your trenches. It is super important to treat the soil and trenches when the soil is nice and dry and hasn't been rained on prior. This ensures the soil fully absorbs the treatment. And for concrete slabs, they are drilled roughly 8-10 inches deep every 24 inches along where the slab meets the structure. After drilling, the holes are injected with the termidor, then plugged afterwards.
4 gallons per ten linear feet per foot of depth. So do the math! A house can take hundred of gallons.m when treated properly (foundation block voids, pier voids, below concrete slabs etc) both sides of foundation walls.
Thank you Daniel!! Keep it up. I’m a single woman that purchased a new house. And I just find out what the home inspector said about the termites that I had. Is most worse and I’m determined to do the job myself getting well prepared first. You are fantastic explaining. Thank you!! Blessings
So we just purchased a mobile home and we're seeing termite droppings inside the house. If we treat the crawl space is that enough or do we need some kind of treatment inside the walls too?
Granules work, as long as they have either fipronil or imidacloprid. It takes about a month. I had termites on my back fence eating the whole thing up, I laid down a bag of BioAdvance granules after trenching under the fence and the termites have been completely exterminated. It also killed a lot of other pests so I am satisfied. I'll be laying this stuff down every single month for the forseeable future.
@@AlpineSprinklesI'm not sure, my approach has been to lay granules all over my entire front, back and side yards and fill my walls with foam. My termite problem is solved for now but where I live it is something I worry about constantly. During the spring and summer months I am putting some kind of poison somewhere every month. I also foam my fences and that does the trick. The reason the granules work is because the plants absorb the poison and that is where the termites get their water from.
@@mrtv777 I use imidacloprid granules every three months with a spreader all over my yard. I use a fipronil foam on wood surfaces and inside of the floor level molding where there is space underneath. I eliminated my termites with the fipronil, the outdoor treatment just ensured they don't set up shop in my yard
Shut it @@thenockless,....is that all you can do?.....nasty comments from the attiic room of your parents house,....I bet you're not even as close as Handsome as this guy is.😀
Termidor he dilution ratio for 0.6% is 0.8 Fluid ounces per gallon. And for 0.125% it is 1.6 fluid ounces per gallon. The label is the law. I recommend using 0.125% and the application rate is 2 gallons per 10 linear feet. For 49.5 gallons of water you can use a full 79 fluid ounce bottle of pure concentrated termidor he. And if you are a termite technician and have access to a pump system with a rod you would need to treat the concrete and driveway as well. You would need to drill and rod every 18 inches: hope this helps someone👍
Can you *please* do a video on the environmental hazards of different pesticides and/or what makes the products you use less toxic to the environment or potentially hazardous for leaching into the property's groundwater‼️ *_Especially_* if there's a well & pump on the property used in watering edible crops/water for animals‼️
I love the way you explained the process! You made it really easy and simple. Id like to ask though how you will go about the treatment if your house is surrounded by concrete? Thanks Daniel! 👌👌👌
Hey Dan, If I have termites inside crawl space would I use a dry powder on the joists and the liquid on parameter? or what would you suggest. termites were located below a window that was not sealed properly. I cut out all rotted wood when I ran into them. Thanks for all you videos.
Thanks for mentioning gloves, your skin is the largest organ of your body and it is an endocrine organ which means you can do long term damage now that appears later in many weird illnesses.
Hi Bro. I checked online, and I found a few different terminedor products with different prices. Which one is the right one that I need to buy ? Thank you in advance for your help.
The floor in my crawlspace is dirt could they possibly be in there and avoid the treated perimeter? Or are they most likely outside the shed? I really don't wanna give up on this shed 🙏 😂
I saw a termidor HE. Which goes down with 2/3 gallons and 3.2 approx w less digging depth. My crawlspace is low..so, if i can hunch down, i can easily dig around that crawl space with a smaller hand tool, i go down w less inches deep x wide. Read the instructions to verify depth and application. Outside, i would for sure dig, 6x 6. .read up on termidor HE. product maybe , more expensive, but overall, less because u have labor
Thx you for making another great video. The back of my house when raining the water stay close and some goto my foundation and on the left side as well. When I pour termidor sc down around the foundation does the rain wash it off? What's a better way to make termidor more effective?
Yes you need to make sure there is no rain water flooding the area. Heavy flooding won't completely wash away the chemical, but it will reduce the effectiveness long term. You should consider adding some drains or fixing the gutters or something like that
Hi, what would you recommend for a large building that is built into the side of a steep hill? Can't really dig a trench up a cliff face, so should just try and work around it the best we can?
Thanks for this awesome video. I’ll be doing it myself trying to save some money. My question is - when it’s the best time to do the termite treatment? Do I do it now (NY weather) or do I wait for spring? Thanks again for your great content.
Hi, the best time is in summer, but you have a problem now, start quickly, make the trench, and apply 4 gallons every 10 feet long. 0.80 oz. For each gallon, you need 3.20 oz. to complete 4 gallons. good luck.
@@DanTheBugMan Thank you, last question. My house is a rectangle and the garage is on one side. Do I need to trench around it completely or can I treat it like an outdoor porch and just go 3-4 ft into it on each side like you said do for porches?
@@DanTheBugMan yeah. I have dry termites at my house. I’m having a hard time finding a vid that shows a straight forward way to treat them. I’ve had 1 estimate for 2,900$ 🤦🏼. I have 7 areas (on the exterior eaves of my house and one area upstairs under the flooring. I found four little holes coming up through the flooring. The exterior areas are small and the holes in the floor upstairs are in one location so I can’t see how this termite company can charge me $2900 for treating. I just need to find the right plan and understand how to treat the termites and I’ll save myself a boatload of money.
@@damienonar1mHey bud there are several things. If you are going to fight them yourself there are products like timbor and bora care the will do the job. Also temperature but that is expensive as well. The borate products are made to soak in to where the termites are feeding and living
I’m a fellow exterminator. Always wear your PPE even when no one is watching. Your safety is always the most important thing about doing a treatment. Great job though kid.
We had two people come over and give us a quote. They both told us we needed to remove the foam insulation from under our home. We spent thousands on this leaving us with not enough ($3000) for treatment. They could have done this without going in our crawlspace? I am so stressed out knowing this. 😩
I seem to have termite visitors that fipronil does not kill. They are dancing around and partying on inside my timber tops. spraying a few times with different concentrations has not worked. Super termites?
If my house has been treated in the past - can I 'top dress' with the appropriate strength and amount without digging a trench? Just pour it, or spray it against the house?
@@DanTheBugMan Is there is a difference between putting Taurus in one gallon water jugs and shaking it and pouring it in as opposed to a big 4 to 5 gallon big bucket 🪣?
Dan, my home is surrounded on all sides by cement, in varying widths, so that I'm unable to trench anywhere closer than 3 feet, and only in a few areas. I do have a very limited crawlspace, would that be my only option to apply termidor?
I’m gearing up for Termite season come May. I’m loading up my “troops” so I can relax while they swarm my neighborhood. Not this year, termites. Better to see one than to see a house party full of termites. Do you know how to avoid seeing termites in a light fixture?
Good to plan ahead!! Well, if there are termites in a light fixture, that means that they have gotten inside the home. I would do a inspection around the baseboards and crawlspace to see if there is an active colony first. Then if there is treat for the termites
@@DanTheBugMan That's not true. Just because you have dead termites in a light fixture doesn't mean you have termites in your home. Termites fly around trying to find the next place to build a colony. They come from trees, wood piles, your neighbors' homes, etc. But they are attracted to light so will fly into a fixture. Fortunately they aren't real smart and oftentimes can't get out of the fixture and die because the heat of the light dries them up.
@@DanTheBugMan Termites came out last spring and when it got cold they went away and now they are back. But we're they still eating away at my house during the winter or were they gone?
@@davidjones5059 @David Jones if sprayed as a foundation treatment but it looks like he did the trenching method. In perfect conditions it may last up to 10 years for subterranean termites but from my experience it lasts about 6-7 years.
Hi Dan, thank you for the informative video! You did mentioned there is no need to dig for the patio. What about one side of my house is finished with concrete slap (52 ft L x 8 ft W) from my house to the neighbor property. Would you recommend drilling injection holes or just ignore that area?
Wow can’t believe he just said to ignore this area but that is completely wrong. You absolutely do need to drill holes and use a sub slab injector to treat under the slab. Trust me on this. I have been doing termite work for 13 years. This guy is doing a termite treatment that will absolutely not keep termites out
@@jakemunoz2400 Jake, what I've been told is that chemicals like termidor and Taurus don't need a 100% barrier. This is because the chemical is a transfer ingredient (fipronil). Termite colonies are always foraging in the soil, therefore the colony will come in contact with the chemical at some point. Do you disagree?
@@DanTheBugMan Sorry to be so harsh but no that isn’t true. It is true that termites are constantly foraging and that they branch off into multiple directions kind of like the roots of a tree. The problem is if one of those branches comes up the area where you didn’t treat( like the joint between the patio and the slab the house is sitting on) then they will get into the house and start eating. Once that branch finds that food source they will continue going there and not looking other places. Now one of the other branches could get into the chemical but there is absolutely no guarantee that they will. Also even if another branch does get into the chemical there is no telling how long it will take that branch to get in it. Meanwhile the branch that didn’t get into the chemical is steadily eating the house. Also Termidor does not always kill the entire colony. It is a great chemical don’t get me wrong but not full proof. Also not trenching and treating around the piers is a big no no. If the crawlspace of a house is inaccessible then you definitely need to use bait stations
For areas where you can't dig, such as concrete driveways and patios, you should drill through the concrete every foot and inject the fipronil/Termidor through those holes with a pressure injector. It's not nearly as hard as you might think. With a proper rotary hammer, either rented or purchased, drilling a hole through the typical slab only takes a few seconds. After you inject the termiticide through the hole then you can patch it with concrete patch and you'll hardly notice the drill spots. Some people even just plug them so that they can access those holes again without having to redrill.
Do you know much about drywood termites? I live in Southern Utah, and I am about to get my house tented and fumigated because multiple spot treatments have failed. I asked the technician if there way anything I could do to prevent another drywood termite infestation, and he said he'd be lying to me if there was. Is there really nothing that can be done to help prevent drywood termites?
Unfortunately I’m not an expert on dry wood termites. They aren’t in my area. However usually tenting is a last resort. Has the company stated why the spot treatments haven’t worked? The chemicals the apply should kill the colony
@@DanTheBugMan To make a long story short, I bought my house back in 2008, paid $400 for a home inspection (which of course didn't show termites), and 1 year later after I moved in I started getting kickout holes with frass. I did a spot treatment and didn't see them again for a while. A year later, more kickout holes and frass this time along 2 walls of the house. Spot treatment again, and didn't see any for a few years. Then last year, more kickout holes and frass, this time along 3 sides of my house, and the kickout holes are popping up very fast and more frequent this year. They said I have reached a point beyond spot treatment, and recommended fumigation. I am terrified of them causing structural damage to the house, and how fast they are making kickout holes in my drywall. There are 2 new piles of frass outside the house now too, and they are quite big. I think there's a chance the previous owners knew there was a problem, and now the problem is mine. I bought the home as a "short-sale" during the housing crash, and short-sale homes are sold as-is, so there is no recourse for problems. I guess if anything, I'll have peace of mind after the fumigation that I have at least killed the termites and halted any damage they are doing for now. They are giving me a 2 year guarantee on the fumigation. There are only 2 companies in my area that fumigate, and they had the best warranty, and they've been in business for over 40 years so that's why I went with them. The other company wanted an extra $800 on top of their quote, and only guaranteed for 1 year, and they haven't been in business very long.
@@petef.4361 Wow man that's frustrating. But it sounds like you made a good decision with the treatment. The 2 year guarantee is important. Make sure they are checking it once a year. Have you been able to locate how much damage the termites have done? One thought that came to mind is that it is possible that each year you unluckily get a new termite colony, even after you kill the old one from last year. But if the spot treatments didn't work correctly it could have been the same colony the whole time
@@DanTheBugMan Yes you are right, it could be either new colonies each year or the same colony. I am for sure going to follow your advice and get yearly checks at bare minimum. My home is a stucco single story, no basement or crawlspace, directly on concrete foundation, and tile roof. So I think the only way to know how much damage is inside, is if myself (or a company I hired to do it) cut small holes in the drywall around the house and used an inspection camera to see, or they could cut big holes to get better access. Luckily I've had two separate pest control companies tell me, that based on initial observations, it's unlikely I have structural damage yet. One of them told me that typically in a house like mine, I would start to see actual cracks in the drywall if the damage started to get serious. So after the fumigation is done, I'll have to decide if I really want to start making holes in the wall. I am almost afraid to look to be honest :(
@@petef.4361 I don't make it a habit of chiming into other UA-camr's channels, but since Dan said he is not familiar with drywood termites, I thought he may not mind a bit of assistance. One pro to another so to speak. I do know a lot about drywood termites and I can tell you that fumigation is the only way to get rid of them for sure. That being said, you should know that the gas they use has no residual action at all and so you can literally get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. In fact, it is almost a certainty that you WILL get infested with a year after the fumigation. That is because your neighbors' also have drywood termites and they will attack again when they swarm from your neighbors' homes. The reason companies can get away with those useless guarantees is because it takes between four to seven years before a new batch of drywood termites can mature to the point where they will swarm. Since, most of the time, you don't know that you have them until they start to come out of your walls or woodwork, the fumigation companies know that you are not likely to discover them for at least a year or two. They know full well that you are going to have them within a year, but they are not going to share that information with you. All is not lost though. There is a way to prevent new infestations, but it is something that you must do yourself and you must do it every three months. I don't mean to pitch one of my videos on Dan's channel. Kind of bad form, but I this will be really helpful to you, so I'm hoping that Dan does not mind. I have what I believe is the only video on the web that will show you how to prevent a drywood termite infestation and I will give you a link for it. You should start this treatment a few days before you fumigate and then do it every three months after that. If you fail to do the prevention, then you will find yourself fumigating every several years. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. How to prevent drywood termites video: ua-cam.com/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/v-deo.html
the only reason I do this is because if applied by that formula, it would take about 100 gallons of treatment. and aint no one got time for mixing that much lol. The only downside of doing it this way is that its not dispersed as much in the soil, but should be the same effectiveness
@@DanTheBugMan It also depends on your soil. If it has heavy clay content, for example, absorption won't be as good as in more loose soil, so take that into consideration.
@@AlpineSprinkles I have high clay where live. Just dig a little deeper and let it soak as much as possible. It won't be as easy as all the videos you see on YT with soft soil, but it will work. Then soak the top after you back fill what you dug out and then spray up the walls every quarter with taurus SC and a few other things you can use. Digging is hard work, but you can do it. I did the perimeter of my house myself. Easily 100 gallons of more. Don't half ass it like this guy did.
Okay I know you said we shouldn't have any questions but first of all why would you tell people they don't need to read the label? Why would you tell people that it doesn't matter how you measure it as long as you use that whole bottle? The label directions are there for a reason and if you read the label you would know that you apply 4 gallons for every 10 linear feet not what I saw was approximately 5 gallons for about 30 plus feet ? Why would you not use PPE? Why would you not drill and treat the abudding slabs it's a very common place for termites to enter the structure? Why would you not inspect the crawl space ? also very common area for termites to enter the structure up the supporting piers are in the middle of the home and your chemical treatment is never going to touch it. Why did you not use the proper equipment and use a Rodding tool? Why would you not incorporate the backfill with the Termidor so that you get even coverage?
I'm not knocking him, thanks for giving away info. But NEVER USE ANY TERMIDOR with out proper Personal protection equipment. Long sleeves pants gloves eye protection, and gloves must be 14 mill or thicker. Safety first my friends
Why not go all the way around the patio or “porch”? Wouldn’t a barrier around the entire home and patio be ideal? What’s a reliable site or shop that I can purchase these chemicals? Don’t want to get ripped off by a fake company or get non legit product.
It’s supposed to be put next to the footer of the home. Not just some barrier in the soil. That patio and any concrete that’s next to the home has to be drilled every 12” and chemical sub-slab injected
6-7ft tall c space to only treat for termites? Lol man we trench in anything about 16”. Also this method won’t won’t if you do in fact have an established colony in the crawlspace or in substructure elements with moisture above 16-20%. I’ve had to retreat countless terminix spot treatments because they just waived and ignored the c space.
@DanTheBugMan You are going to get someone hurt. By telling people, "They don't have to read the label", this is stupid. Everyone should read the label. It will list the proper PPE in which you need to use the product. I honestly don't see how you run a business. You are using the wrong type of gloves to mix or even use the product. You are not following any label instructions. For everyone who watches these DIY videos. Please hire a professional. Hire a company who is credited. How do you not get reported to the Department of Ag, I don't know.
As a licensed professional I would always recommend to anyone who touches a product to read the label first wear the proper clothing and ppe before mixing and applying any products period they are harmful to your health and safety and if applied incorrectly you may be in a lot of trouble. (READ THE LABEL)
So Dan if I do it according to one of your other videos like just the permitter around the house or I must do in the crawl space.. sorry Dan I typed this before watching the video.. i Toight ur gonna dig under the house and around the piers
"For use only by individuals/firms licensed or registered by the state to apply termiticide and/or general pest control products" - from the front of the label.
yea you didn't do a good job. you just made a termite bridge over the product when you filled the trench back in with soil that wasn't treated. also for a crawl space you have to treat every support block or brick otherwise they can build on those.
Why do you guys still do termite jobs like that? Its so much more work,takes some much more time and doesn't work as well..just curious if theres a reason
@@elisawaldman there's a bunch of different bait systems that go in the ground and work way better...sentricon being the most known..yes I'm literally doing pest control at the moment and commenting on it ..jeez I'm lame..lol..lame with a lot of money tho!!! Cuz I work hahddddddd
@@jetfryl9831 a bunch of professional people are suggesting a "one-time injection" and application in multiple places under and around the house that will kill and then prevent the return of termites for x years....what are your thoughts about that instead of ongoing bait systems?
@@jetfryl9831 Bait is fine and dandy if you don't already have an infestation, but if they're already inside the building you need to treat the perimeter to kill termites traveling between building and colony... and injecting the wood inside might not hurt either.
BUY DanTheBugMan’s Recommended Products Here: shrsl.com/44ggr
If you buy any products through this link I get a small percentage of the sale :) The “DIY Pest” website sells professional pest control products to the general public. Use any product made by CSI Pest and you will be sure to get a great product and deal!
Is this still the best place to buy the products? I can only find termidor sc in 20oz so if my home is 212 ln feet I need 68 oz so.. 4 bottles would be a little extra correct?
Its nice to see a young man in a trade position.
I’m not sure what kind of inspection he did, but if there’s termites in the crawlspace, the crawlspace definitely has to be treated. Nice to see the young man take the field seriously.
He’s setting people up for failure and his if he was in Texas TDA would have his head lol
Eventually The termites would have to cross the Barrier to get to the colony. Even if it’s a handful of termites making it back, they can still infect the colony
I must mention that when you trench do so in 6 inches deep x 10 ft long section, and also have a pump sprayer to treat the back fill soil before backfilling your trenches. It is super important to treat the soil and trenches when the soil is nice and dry and hasn't been rained on prior. This ensures the soil fully absorbs the treatment. And for concrete slabs, they are drilled roughly 8-10 inches deep every 24 inches along where the slab meets the structure. After drilling, the holes are injected with the termidor, then plugged afterwards.
What if you have railroad ties along the structure can you apply more termidor? What's the best product to use in basements and garages?
Label says no more than 16” apart. Label is law
4 gallons per ten linear feet per foot of depth. So do the math! A house can take hundred of gallons.m when treated properly (foundation block voids, pier voids, below concrete slabs etc) both sides of foundation walls.
4 gallons of the MIX !!
3.2oz for 10 ft
Mix accurately !
In Missouri you drill every 12", 4 gals of finished solution per 10 ft. per foot of depth
Thank you Daniel!! Keep it up. I’m a single woman that purchased a new house. And I just find out what the home inspector said about the termites that I had. Is most worse and I’m determined to do the job myself getting well prepared first. You are fantastic explaining. Thank you!! Blessings
You should read the label then because this gentleman does not have it all correct. Fantastic product tho!
Read the label. Hire a pro. Don’t let your huge investment get eaten up cause you want to save $1,000 bucks
Don’t listen to these two 👆🏼
@@toddc5638hahaha only $1000…?
So we just purchased a mobile home and we're seeing termite droppings inside the house. If we treat the crawl space is that enough or do we need some kind of treatment inside the walls too?
dan you are sooo informative in all your vids. really makes it intersting to listin to you. rhanks for all the help. keep up the good work.
Thanks dirtylegs! I was pretty happy with how this one turned out
@@DanTheBugMan you watch mark felton?
Granules work, as long as they have either fipronil or imidacloprid. It takes about a month. I had termites on my back fence eating the whole thing up, I laid down a bag of BioAdvance granules after trenching under the fence and the termites have been completely exterminated. It also killed a lot of other pests so I am satisfied. I'll be laying this stuff down every single month for the forseeable future.
I'll bet those granules won't work with clay soil.
@@AlpineSprinklesI'm not sure, my approach has been to lay granules all over my entire front, back and side yards and fill my walls with foam. My termite problem is solved for now but where I live it is something I worry about constantly. During the spring and summer months I am putting some kind of poison somewhere every month. I also foam my fences and that does the trick. The reason the granules work is because the plants absorb the poison and that is where the termites get their water from.
So the granules are buried in a trench also? Not on top?
@@mrtv777 I use imidacloprid granules every three months with a spreader all over my yard. I use a fipronil foam on wood surfaces and inside of the floor level molding where there is space underneath. I eliminated my termites with the fipronil, the outdoor treatment just ensured they don't set up shop in my yard
Nice job but you are supposed to dig 6 inches into the dirt and 6 inches away from the house correct?
Always be safe when handling pesticides and wear gloves like I didn’t do :)
Nerd
Shut it @@thenockless,....is that all you can do?.....nasty comments from the attiic room of your parents house,....I bet you're not even as close as Handsome as this guy is.😀
Safety glasses too!!
@@joeytse1862 yes!! those I tend to neglect also :/
Uh oh calling your state chemist ! 😉
Termidor he dilution ratio for 0.6% is 0.8 Fluid ounces per gallon. And for 0.125% it is 1.6 fluid ounces per gallon. The label is the law. I recommend using 0.125% and the application rate is 2 gallons per 10 linear feet. For 49.5 gallons of water you can use a full 79 fluid ounce bottle of pure concentrated termidor he. And if you are a termite technician and have access to a pump system with a rod you would need to treat the concrete and driveway as well. You would need to drill and rod every 18 inches: hope this helps someone👍
Can you *please* do a video on the environmental hazards of different pesticides and/or what makes the products you use less toxic to the environment or potentially hazardous for leaching into the property's groundwater‼️ *_Especially_* if there's a well & pump on the property used in watering edible crops/water for animals‼️
I love the way you explained the process! You made it really easy and simple. Id like to ask though how you will go about the treatment if your house is surrounded by concrete? Thanks Daniel! 👌👌👌
how do you treat termites in the studs on the outside of the house
If I have gravel around the house can I dig the ditch outside of the gravel or it has to be against the house?
could you hypothetically just saturate the soil from a diy sprayer to avoid digging the trench or destroying existing landscaping?
Hey dan, i can't get taurus, or termidor here in sc . Do you have any recommendations
Do you like the Termidor SC better than the Taurus SC or are they the same? Thanks 😊.
Same active ingredient
@@michaelmerck7576 thank you.
Thanks for the video it is very helpful
You said to pour the liquid 4 times
Is it consecutive or on a different days
Does it matter how far away from the house you dig the trench? Watching from central Fl.
Hey Dan, If I have termites inside crawl space would I use a dry powder on the joists and the liquid on parameter? or what would you suggest. termites were located below a window that was not sealed properly. I cut out all rotted wood when I ran into them. Thanks for all you videos.
Some properties have their own well- does the fipronil filter down into the well water? Thanks-
Yes !
Thanks for great explanation!
How often a house needs treatment?
Thanks for mentioning gloves, your skin is the largest organ of your body and it is an endocrine organ which means you can do long term damage now that appears later in many weird illnesses.
Hi Bro.
I checked online, and I found a few different terminedor products with different prices. Which one is the right one that I need to buy ? Thank you in advance for your help.
The floor in my crawlspace is dirt could they possibly be in there and avoid the treated perimeter? Or are they most likely outside the shed? I really don't wanna give up on this shed 🙏 😂
Hi, love your videos.
Is late summer early fall a good time to do this or is there a specific time of the year to do it?
Thanks
Thanks! Any time of year works, just try not to do it right before it rains (1-4 hours)
What if you have cement sidewalk along the house and not mud?
I saw a termidor HE. Which goes down with 2/3 gallons and 3.2 approx w less digging depth. My crawlspace is low..so, if i can hunch down, i can easily dig around that crawl space with a smaller hand tool, i go down w less inches deep x wide. Read the instructions to verify depth and application. Outside, i would for sure dig, 6x 6.
.read up on termidor HE.
product maybe , more expensive, but overall, less because u have labor
I did not think the DIY'er can purchase Themidor HE
Thank You, Buddy! Great information
Thx you for making another great video. The back of my house when raining the water stay close and some goto my foundation and on the left side as well. When I pour termidor sc down around the foundation does the rain wash it off? What's a better way to make termidor more effective?
Yes you need to make sure there is no rain water flooding the area. Heavy flooding won't completely wash away the chemical, but it will reduce the effectiveness long term. You should consider adding some drains or fixing the gutters or something like that
Hi, what would you recommend for a large building that is built into the side of a steep hill? Can't really dig a trench up a cliff face, so should just try and work around it the best we can?
Thanks for this awesome video. I’ll be doing it myself trying to save some money. My question is - when it’s the best time to do the termite treatment? Do I do it now (NY weather) or do I wait for spring? Thanks again for your great content.
Hi, the best time is in summer, but you have a problem now, start quickly, make the trench, and apply 4 gallons every 10 feet long. 0.80 oz. For each gallon, you need 3.20 oz. to complete 4 gallons.
good luck.
Thanks for the video. If I have active termites is there anything you would recommend to spray inside the crawl space as well?
You’re welcome! Yes if you can use this termidor in the crawlspace also
@@DanTheBugMan Thank you, last question. My house is a rectangle and the garage is on one side. Do I need to trench around it completely or can I treat it like an outdoor porch and just go 3-4 ft into it on each side like you said do for porches?
Is this only for subterranean termites?
Great vid on how to treat for subterranean termites but what about treating for dry termites?
that's a totally different treatment!
@@DanTheBugMan yeah. I have dry termites at my house. I’m having a hard time finding a vid that shows a straight forward way to treat them. I’ve had 1 estimate for 2,900$ 🤦🏼. I have 7 areas (on the exterior eaves of my house and one area upstairs under the flooring. I found four little holes coming up through the flooring. The exterior areas are small and the holes in the floor upstairs are in one location so I can’t see how this termite company can charge me $2900 for treating. I just need to find the right plan and understand how to treat the termites and I’ll save myself a boatload of money.
@@damienonar1mHey bud there are several things. If you are going to fight them yourself there are products like timbor and bora care the will do the job. Also temperature but that is expensive as well. The borate products are made to soak in to where the termites are feeding and living
I’m a fellow exterminator. Always wear your PPE even when no one is watching. Your safety is always the most important thing about doing a treatment. Great job though kid.
🙏🏻🙏🏻
What about wisdom tc flowable?
Will you use this for active termites
We had two people come over and give us a quote. They both told us we needed to remove the foam insulation from under our home. We spent thousands on this leaving us with not enough ($3000) for treatment. They could have done this without going in our crawlspace? I am so stressed out knowing this. 😩
Dang! Yeah it’s good to treat a crawlspace but definitely not necessary
@@DanTheBugMan It definitely is neccessary
Hello Dan . This chemical safe to use near plant or vegetables ?
Safe for dog ?
I seem to have termite visitors that fipronil does not kill. They are dancing around and partying on inside my timber tops. spraying a few times with different concentrations has not worked. Super termites?
Ever heard of Boracare?
@@caslitt3435 not heard of Boracare. Anyway, actually it just took some time but the infestation is gone and hasn't returned.
Man this is why I do the pump sprayer and steel
Rod method. Screw trenching like this if I’m doing it as a homeowner (soil depending)
You’re rad! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Looking Great Dan.👍😉
I’m trying my best 🙂
Dan would this be the exact way to treat for termites in a double wide mobile home?
I forgot to tell you I live in the south Florida area
If my house has been treated in the past - can I 'top dress' with the appropriate strength and amount without digging a trench? Just pour it, or spray it against the house?
No. Read the label. Label is law
Dan, aren't you supposed to be using 4 gallons every 10 ft rather than every 25?
What happens if I put in twice the Taurus solution? 1.6 per gallon of water instead of .08.
I just ordered my 78 oz of Taurus so I want to use it all
That would be totally fine to use 1.6 oz per gallon. It just means that the chemical doesn't get diluted as much, but will be just effective
@@DanTheBugMan Great! Thank You!
Where are you and your company located?
@@MilkyWayGalaxyy you're welcome! we are out of Kentucky
@@DanTheBugMan Is there is a difference between putting Taurus in one gallon water jugs and shaking it and pouring it in as opposed to a big 4 to 5 gallon big bucket 🪣?
@@MilkyWayGalaxyy Still works
The most important thing is what type of termites are you treating? I did not hear you mention this at all.
What do you do on a slope?
Won't this get washed away with rain?
From BALI INDONESIA like... good job for prevention
Dan, my home is surrounded on all sides by cement, in varying widths, so that I'm unable to trench anywhere closer than 3 feet, and only in a few areas. I do have a very limited crawlspace, would that be my only option to apply termidor?
You have to drill the cement and apply the chemical. You can also use sentricon devices around home but not my favorite.
I’m gearing up for Termite season come May. I’m loading up my “troops” so I can relax while they swarm my neighborhood. Not this year, termites. Better to see one than to see a house party full of termites. Do you know how to avoid seeing termites in a light fixture?
Good to plan ahead!! Well, if there are termites in a light fixture, that means that they have gotten inside the home. I would do a inspection around the baseboards and crawlspace to see if there is an active colony first. Then if there is treat for the termites
@@DanTheBugMan That's not true. Just because you have dead termites in a light fixture doesn't mean you have termites in your home. Termites fly around trying to find the next place to build a colony. They come from trees, wood piles, your neighbors' homes, etc. But they are attracted to light so will fly into a fixture. Fortunately they aren't real smart and oftentimes can't get out of the fixture and die because the heat of the light dries them up.
how long does it last, do i have to do this every year ?
I'm not an expert but I've watched a few videos. In most they say the treatment lasts up to 10 years, but in one they said 5 to 10 years.
Excellent vidoe you saved me 4000
they quoted you $4000??
@@evanmila4048 not US dollar it’s like 2500 USA money
What if you can’t trench all the way around the exterior?
Excellent info!
Hi Dan, where do i buy that termidor chemical?
Hi Dan,
Can you advise on what’s the best time to do the treatment? Summers, winter, autumn or spring?
Any time of year is fine! The product will last about 10 years. Termites are most active when it’s warm
@@DanTheBugMan Termites came out last spring and when it got cold they went away and now they are back. But we're they still eating away at my house during the winter or were they gone?
@@DanTheBugMan Termidor SC description says: Prevention Up to 6 months, where 10 years came from?
@@davidjones5059 @David Jones if sprayed as a foundation treatment but it looks like he did the trenching method. In perfect conditions it may last up to 10 years for subterranean termites but from my experience it lasts about 6-7 years.
How often does one treat? Is this safe for pets?
Where can I buy termidor/Taurus sc?
Can this be spray to the wood in the attic? Thanks
nope, just soil
Where. Can i buy the product.
Thanks for the video! This may be somewhere in the comments, but...How long will this treatment last?
I believe it is around 5-10 years, about 7 years is average.
I can't find the Termidor in my area of California, what other treatment do you suggest?
Look up a product called Taurus
Hi Dan, thank you for the informative video! You did mentioned there is no need to dig for the patio. What about one side of my house is finished with concrete slap (52 ft L x 8 ft W) from my house to the neighbor property. Would you recommend drilling injection holes or just ignore that area?
Thanks for watching! If that is the only side of the house that the soil is not accessible, then it would definitely be okay to ignore that area.
Wow can’t believe he just said to ignore this area but that is completely wrong. You absolutely do need to drill holes and use a sub slab injector to treat under the slab. Trust me on this. I have been doing termite work for 13 years. This guy is doing a termite treatment that will absolutely not keep termites out
@@jakemunoz2400 Jake, what I've been told is that chemicals like termidor and Taurus don't need a 100% barrier. This is because the chemical is a transfer ingredient (fipronil). Termite colonies are always foraging in the soil, therefore the colony will come in contact with the chemical at some point. Do you disagree?
@@DanTheBugMan Sorry to be so harsh but no that isn’t true. It is true that termites are constantly foraging and that they branch off into multiple directions kind of like the roots of a tree. The problem is if one of those branches comes up the area where you didn’t treat( like the joint between the patio and the slab the house is sitting on) then they will get into the house and start eating. Once that branch finds that food source they will continue going there and not looking other places. Now one of the other branches could get into the chemical but there is absolutely no guarantee that they will. Also even if another branch does get into the chemical there is no telling how long it will take that branch to get in it. Meanwhile the branch that didn’t get into the chemical is steadily eating the house. Also Termidor does not always kill the entire colony. It is a great chemical don’t get me wrong but not full proof. Also not trenching and treating around the piers is a big no no. If the crawlspace of a house is inaccessible then you definitely need to use bait stations
For areas where you can't dig, such as concrete driveways and patios, you should drill through the concrete every foot and inject the fipronil/Termidor through those holes with a pressure injector. It's not nearly as hard as you might think. With a proper rotary hammer, either rented or purchased, drilling a hole through the typical slab only takes a few seconds. After you inject the termiticide through the hole then you can patch it with concrete patch and you'll hardly notice the drill spots. Some people even just plug them so that they can access those holes again without having to redrill.
Hi, Dan. the termites swarming are annoying at my house, so how do you get rid of termites and what are using?
We use a soil treatment like I did in this video
Do you know much about drywood termites? I live in Southern Utah, and I am about to get my house tented and fumigated because multiple spot treatments have failed. I asked the technician if there way anything I could do to prevent another drywood termite infestation, and he said he'd be lying to me if there was. Is there really nothing that can be done to help prevent drywood termites?
Unfortunately I’m not an expert on dry wood termites. They aren’t in my area. However usually tenting is a last resort. Has the company stated why the spot treatments haven’t worked? The chemicals the apply should kill the colony
@@DanTheBugMan To make a long story short, I bought my house back in 2008, paid $400 for a home inspection (which of course didn't show termites), and 1 year later after I moved in I started getting kickout holes with frass. I did a spot treatment and didn't see them again for a while. A year later, more kickout holes and frass this time along 2 walls of the house. Spot treatment again, and didn't see any for a few years. Then last year, more kickout holes and frass, this time along 3 sides of my house, and the kickout holes are popping up very fast and more frequent this year. They said I have reached a point beyond spot treatment, and recommended fumigation. I am terrified of them causing structural damage to the house, and how fast they are making kickout holes in my drywall. There are 2 new piles of frass outside the house now too, and they are quite big. I think there's a chance the previous owners knew there was a problem, and now the problem is mine. I bought the home as a "short-sale" during the housing crash, and short-sale homes are sold as-is, so there is no recourse for problems. I guess if anything, I'll have peace of mind after the fumigation that I have at least killed the termites and halted any damage they are doing for now. They are giving me a 2 year guarantee on the fumigation. There are only 2 companies in my area that fumigate, and they had the best warranty, and they've been in business for over 40 years so that's why I went with them. The other company wanted an extra $800 on top of their quote, and only guaranteed for 1 year, and they haven't been in business very long.
@@petef.4361 Wow man that's frustrating. But it sounds like you made a good decision with the treatment. The 2 year guarantee is important. Make sure they are checking it once a year. Have you been able to locate how much damage the termites have done? One thought that came to mind is that it is possible that each year you unluckily get a new termite colony, even after you kill the old one from last year. But if the spot treatments didn't work correctly it could have been the same colony the whole time
@@DanTheBugMan Yes you are right, it could be either new colonies each year or the same colony. I am for sure going to follow your advice and get yearly checks at bare minimum. My home is a stucco single story, no basement or crawlspace, directly on concrete foundation, and tile roof. So I think the only way to know how much damage is inside, is if myself (or a company I hired to do it) cut small holes in the drywall around the house and used an inspection camera to see, or they could cut big holes to get better access. Luckily I've had two separate pest control companies tell me, that based on initial observations, it's unlikely I have structural damage yet. One of them told me that typically in a house like mine, I would start to see actual cracks in the drywall if the damage started to get serious. So after the fumigation is done, I'll have to decide if I really want to start making holes in the wall. I am almost afraid to look to be honest :(
@@petef.4361 I don't make it a habit of chiming into other UA-camr's channels, but since Dan said he is not familiar with drywood termites, I thought he may not mind a bit of assistance. One pro to another so to speak. I do know a lot about drywood termites and I can tell you that fumigation is the only way to get rid of them for sure. That being said, you should know that the gas they use has no residual action at all and so you can literally get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. In fact, it is almost a certainty that you WILL get infested with a year after the fumigation. That is because your neighbors' also have drywood termites and they will attack again when they swarm from your neighbors' homes. The reason companies can get away with those useless guarantees is because it takes between four to seven years before a new batch of drywood termites can mature to the point where they will swarm. Since, most of the time, you don't know that you have them until they start to come out of your walls or woodwork, the fumigation companies know that you are not likely to discover them for at least a year or two. They know full well that you are going to have them within a year, but they are not going to share that information with you. All is not lost though. There is a way to prevent new infestations, but it is something that you must do yourself and you must do it every three months. I don't mean to pitch one of my videos on Dan's channel. Kind of bad form, but I this will be really helpful to you, so I'm hoping that Dan does not mind. I have what I believe is the only video on the web that will show you how to prevent a drywood termite infestation and I will give you a link for it. You should start this treatment a few days before you fumigate and then do it every three months after that. If you fail to do the prevention, then you will find yourself fumigating every several years.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
How to prevent drywood termites video: ua-cam.com/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/v-deo.html
How often do you have to do this?
I'm not an expert but I've watched a few videos. In most they say the treatment lasts up to 10 years, but in one they said 5 to ten years.
My house has a pool，shall I treat it around the pool?
Probably not. Just out around the concrete an extra 5-10 feet from the house will work
Don't you have to treat the soil that you cover the trench with
Why do you use this formula instead of the recommended 4 gallon per 1.6 OZ. formula that Termidor suggests?
the only reason I do this is because if applied by that formula, it would take about 100 gallons of treatment. and aint no one got time for mixing that much lol. The only downside of doing it this way is that its not dispersed as much in the soil, but should be the same effectiveness
@@DanTheBugMan It also depends on your soil. If it has heavy clay content, for example, absorption won't be as good as in more loose soil, so take that into consideration.
@@fretbuzzly
I'm in Va with a greater than 40% clay content. I guess trenching AND the granules won't work then.😢
@@AlpineSprinkles I have high clay where live. Just dig a little deeper and let it soak as much as possible. It won't be as easy as all the videos you see on YT with soft soil, but it will work. Then soak the top after you back fill what you dug out and then spray up the walls every quarter with taurus SC and a few other things you can use. Digging is hard work, but you can do it. I did the perimeter of my house myself. Easily 100 gallons of more. Don't half ass it like this guy did.
Does this work for the flying termites?
No
Nice red door. Really pops.
How long does this product keep killing the termites
up to 10 years or more depending on a number of factors
@@DanTheBugMan 👍
appreciate you brother, god bless you and your family.
Okay I know you said we shouldn't have any questions but first of all why would you tell people they don't need to read the label? Why would you tell people that it doesn't matter how you measure it as long as you use that whole bottle? The label directions are there for a reason and if you read the label you would know that you apply 4 gallons for every 10 linear feet not what I saw was approximately 5 gallons for about 30 plus feet ? Why would you not use PPE? Why would you not drill and treat the abudding slabs it's a very common place for termites to enter the structure? Why would you not inspect the crawl space ? also very common area for termites to enter the structure up the supporting piers are in the middle of the home and your chemical treatment is never going to touch it. Why did you not use the proper equipment and use a Rodding tool? Why would you not incorporate the backfill with the Termidor so that you get even coverage?
Agreed
Is there a spray bottle method for apartments?
There’s no spray bottles I know of. Just soil treatments
Very well said thanks.
What is the name of this pesticide?
Unfortunately my house is surrounded by pavers and there is no soil to dig trenches.
Lift up first course of pavers around house,treat soil and replace pavers
Im guessing 12-14 metres length property, by 6-8 metres wide.
Can I not buy Termidor in California?
Taurus SC has the same amount of active ingredient, Fipronil, and much cheaper.
How do you spell"termadol"?
Why do professionals put hole in the cement and not dig a trench?
If one has a post tension concrete slab, you are not supposed to drill into those.
I'm not knocking him, thanks for giving away info. But NEVER USE ANY TERMIDOR with out proper Personal protection equipment. Long sleeves pants gloves eye protection, and gloves must be 14 mill or thicker. Safety first my friends
Can you show how to treat termites and trees.
Leave them in the trees or they will look for other sources of food like your house.
Why not go all the way around the patio or “porch”? Wouldn’t a barrier around the entire home and patio be ideal? What’s a reliable site or shop that I can purchase these chemicals? Don’t want to get ripped off by a fake company or get non legit product.
It’s supposed to be put next to the footer of the home. Not just some barrier in the soil. That patio and any concrete that’s next to the home has to be drilled every 12” and chemical sub-slab injected
6-7ft tall c space to only treat for termites? Lol man we trench in anything about 16”. Also this method won’t won’t if you do in fact have an established colony in the crawlspace or in substructure elements with moisture above 16-20%. I’ve had to retreat countless terminix spot treatments because they just waived and ignored the c space.
good point. what do you do if the crawl space is covered with gravel?
how do you handle an active subfloor and just infestation in an accessible crawlspace?
@DanTheBugMan You are going to get someone hurt. By telling people, "They don't have to read the label", this is stupid. Everyone should read the label. It will list the proper PPE in which you need to use the product. I honestly don't see how you run a business. You are using the wrong type of gloves to mix or even use the product. You are not following any label instructions. For everyone who watches these DIY videos. Please hire a professional. Hire a company who is credited.
How do you not get reported to the Department of Ag, I don't know.
As a licensed professional I would always recommend to anyone who touches a product to read the label first wear the proper clothing and ppe before mixing and applying any products period they are harmful to your health and safety and if applied incorrectly you may be in a lot of trouble. (READ THE LABEL)
You really read the 50 pg label of every product?? Nerd
Do you ever have to go into a classes to treat termites? I’ve been offered a job as pest control but cannot imagine doing that
Thank you
Yw!!
So Dan if I do it according to one of your other videos like just the permitter around the house or I must do in the crawl space.. sorry Dan I typed this before watching the video.. i Toight ur gonna dig under the house and around the piers
"For use only by individuals/firms licensed or registered by the state to apply termiticide and/or general pest control products" - from the front of the label.
yea you didn't do a good job. you just made a termite bridge over the product when you filled the trench back in with soil that wasn't treated. also for a crawl space you have to treat every support block or brick otherwise they can build on those.
Thanks for the feedback ;)
The termidor label doesn't call for the same requirements as some state requirements however In most states the label is the law
Why do you guys still do termite jobs like that? Its so much more work,takes some much more time and doesn't work as well..just curious if theres a reason
what do you suggest?
@@elisawaldman there's a bunch of different bait systems that go in the ground and work way better...sentricon being the most known..yes I'm literally doing pest control at the moment and commenting on it ..jeez I'm lame..lol..lame with a lot of money tho!!! Cuz I work hahddddddd
@@jetfryl9831 a bunch of professional people are suggesting a "one-time injection" and application in multiple places under and around the house that will kill and then prevent the return of termites for x years....what are your thoughts about that instead of ongoing bait systems?
@@jetfryl9831 Bait is fine and dandy if you don't already have an infestation, but if they're already inside the building you need to treat the perimeter to kill termites traveling between building and colony... and injecting the wood inside might not hurt either.
Interesting 🤔