BRZ/FR-S Clutch Pedal Adjustment DIY
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- Опубліковано 20 жов 2012
- Quick DIY Tutorial on adjusting the clutch pedal in a 2013 Subaru BRZ/ Scion FR-S.
***I SCREWED UP ON THE LOOSENING/TIGHTENING FOR THE 12MM. REVERSE THE DIRECTIONS THAT I INDICATED**
Check out the written tutorial here: www.ft86club.com/forums/showth... - Авто та транспорт
I wish my text messages were such an epic event.
10 years later i'm still laughing at this
Late to the party, but I just did this to my FR-S after owning it for 2 years. Absolute gamer changer. The clutch pedal feels about half as short but you get SO much more linear control. Heeltoe feels intuitive now. Highly recommend for everyone with this clutch cam (it's in a bunch of newer Toyotas and Subarus).
thank you this helped a lot. some other guy with all his "um"s said it couldnt be done. lol
thanks for the vid! my wrx was grabbing super high and now it's right at the center
Thanks man, I have been trying to find a video on this for ages. Hopefully my clutch doesn’t need replacing
I just bought a 2016 Brz and the clutch engages so high. -EDIT, Okay I just did this and it's a massive improvement. Still need to "get good" at shifting again but it's a lot easier now.
did this on my 23 gr86, made it a lot more comfortable for me, took 10 ish mins. thank you for the great video :)
This is not to adjust the clutch pedal, what you did is to adjust the clutch pedal to clutch master free play, if you adjust too tight/no pedal play you would burn the clutch and may cause premature wear on the clutch, if you adjust too loose/too much pedal play you might have problem to shift the gear and may damage the gearing.
yeah I was scared about grinding gears or burning my clutch. You just have to listen for grinding and smell for clutch after you adjust it. If you don't, then you're all good
Good video. I just did this to my 2008 forester. If ya'll are wondering if it is the same for your car, just hop in there and look. Many cars have the same set up, and it works for them as well. A few things I would like to add just in case anyone wants to DIY and is having trouble like I did.
First: Get comfortable. I laid down the driver seat all the way, and ended up with my left knee halfway over the pasenger seat, and my left leg resting on the e-brake. It hurt the hell out of my back to get in there but it can be done.
Second: Yes it is a 12mm. At first I tried the 12 and it didn't work. I flipped it around and it still didn't work! I didn't want to cut my tool nor did I have an angle grinder to hack it down with so I had to get creative. If you look in the video you may or may not be able to make out the pin (that holds the silver and brown shaft together) and safety pin (which makes sure it doesn't come apart).
I pulled the safety pin out, and broke off that stupid white plastic so I could separate the clutch petal to master cylinder ball and socket shaft thingy from the clutch petal piece(separate the shiny thing from the brownish thing) in order to get a better angle on the nut to be loosened. Once I had the two separated I stuck a philips screwdriver through both holes of the fork(the shiny thingy) and THEN I was able to loosen that nut. Pain in the ass! BUT here is the thing. I ended up bending the fork a little, and I didn't like that, because I had to bend it back perfectly so it could all go back together. IF you use my method I suggest you find the correct size metal shaft to go through both holes with minimal play. A drillbit comes to mind.
Third: I'm just guessing, but I assume the other piece you adjusted was for the hill holder? I don't know. I did not adjust that at all, and everything seems fine, but I only did ONE full turn.
Fourth: I seem to have the opposite problem as most other people have had because my clutch engaged right off of the floor. I adjusted the fork out one full turn and its all better (engaging mid stroke). Maybe I need to go one more full turn, or maybe a half. I'm happy with it the way it is and I plan to buy a brand new OEM clutch fork when I replace my clutch and move out of the city.
Fifth: If you think your are turning your wrench the wrong way remember your upside down and the nut is on the back side...it's a little different than how you're probably used to turning a wrench. Look at the threads on the shaft and imagine which way you would HAVE to turn the nut so it spins loose or tight. I mention this because in the video there seems to be a little confusion. Shoot for a second when I was under there I almost thought it was left handed thread, but its not.
hope this helps anyone having trouble getting the nut loose
+Shane Wiley Curious, Im thinking about doing this to my STI, I unfortunately am having a issue with my new Exedy Twin Disc, its engaging the clutch immediately as soon as I start to let off the clutch pedal. Will this help with that? I just want another half inch of play to release
That pretty much exactly what mine was doing. It was a stock clutch (maybe...it has 150k miles and counting). Where did you order the parts from? did u ask them? Maybe try calling up rallysportdirect and pretend like you are interested in buying one and say something like "so i heard u may have to adjust the play inside the car next to the gas petal", because all of those guys drive hopped up wrx's and stuff. Check out subaruforester.org, nasioc, clubwrx, and if that doesn't work go to a flat4 event and ask around. Hell, email exedy yourself. They responded to me in an hour when I emailed them once. There is a big community of subaru peeps out there that have already done the same thing you have, and they want to help. I would say yes, that is what you want to do...but watch the last bit of the video where he talks about the grinding, and make sure you don't hurt her. I don't want to give u bad advice.
Oh yeah, and for just a half inch you won't have to do a full turn. The full turn was quite a bit of difference, but I like it a lot. Weird to get used to at first, but proper. Right in the middle.
1:40 Clutchception