Nice video. When you use the Wireframe modifier, you can instantly close those open border edges by clicking on the "Boundary" option in the modifier itself. No need to go into edit mode there. The wireframe modifier will create a closed, watertight geometry if you have the boundary option checked.
Thanks for the tip Luxxeon! I found this out a while after making this video and it really feels like I missed something pretty special there. Oh well, we all grow and learn.
Really liked this video! Some fantastic tips. I tend to use the displacement modifier to emboss the mesh with an alpha map to add a dragon or some other pattern to the mesh. It took me a while to figure it out but it is important to check the Stretch U and Stretch V boxes on the screw modifier or you will not get a UV map that can be used for displacement or some other functions.
Interesting video. This task was a good example of Blender's strengths in creating more organic shapes. I also liked the clear presentation of the mouse and keyboard actions. An improvement for similar videos in future might be to take a few seconds to explain a key feature, in this case "What is vase mode?". That way beginners can build a mind map of features and terminology as well as techniques for creating cool stuff!
Cheers for the feedback Andrew, I very much agree with you. I should have done a little bit more of a setup. I'm glad you enjoyed it tho. I could not agree more and this shows off the organic nature of blender.
I did follow you step by step and I got a really cool 3d object but when I tried to export it in STL file it gave me too many red flags, I did repeat your video over and over and started from scratch it didn’t work out , I was planning to get the course and join your academy but if this video didn’t worked out I feel a hesitated to join your course
Thanks, great content... very helpful and practical! Just a question. When I try to execute the bool cut, instead of cutting the base flat as per your video, both the objects disappear. Would you know what's possibly wrong?
Could use the knife to cut off the bottom with the cut through whole model turned on to get an open bottom and then fill it with face. I was thinking you could use the lattice to twist or alter the shape of your vase further.
Is there a way I can make a bezier curve, apply the screw modifier with the wall thickness going inwards, and then invert it so everything inside is the solid object I want? So essentially the inside wall of the screw object would be the outside wall of my solid part?
@@Keep-Making Hi, thanks for your response. I managed to solve it in the end by using the boolean modifiers to cut out the middle section. Sometimes the coplanar faces make the cut come out weirdly but I just go in and delete and rebuild the bad edges/faces with the new vertices.
do you think it is anyhow possible to make moulds for any of the vases you printed? I genuinely wonder if there is any aspect of scale manufacturing possible with complex geometric shapes like these. would be cool!
Good question... Hmm I think it's VERY design dependant. As I don't think the vorinno looking ones would ever be possible as a single vase mould. I would see how they might be possible as a bowl however. Or you could cut the vase design into two halves and then stick them later. It's tricky to make moulds ... But if you keep in mind the limitations of mould making there are definitely some things that can be done
Your tutorial is great. I came across a problem which I am unsure as to what the cause is. It seems like for some reason my models bottom isn't coming out to be perfectly flat. In my splicing software, Cura, it seems to think there is a slight, visually unseeable bend, and highlights the area and red to show that it thinks it wont print well. This only goes away when I move the model down by around half a millimeter, which I suppose effectively flattens the object. Does anyone know why the model made in blender isn't coming out to be perfectly flat.
How many steps would you think is necessary for the screw modifier if a part has radius about 1cm and the wall thickness (solidify modifier) is around 1mm? I did 64 steps and it seems smooth enough but I just wanted your opinion. The part is also going to be used to cast a silicone mould which will then be used to cast the positive part (which I am modelling) in silicone.
In reality, it's up to your taste, just think with an r of 1cm your circumference is 6.28 so 62.8mm. If you are planning to 3d print it may be your printer nozel is 0.4mm so I would say 64 would do but MAX resolution would be 62.8 / 0.4 = 157 steps would be your MAX res defined by your printer.
Hey Char, this particular video is not part of any of my tutorial series. I would advise that you take a look at my youtube channel where you will find the playlists and where every video is numbers in parts. 😃 Glad you are enjoying the videos
hi i have some basic strange question but let me ask it. I am new here and dont know how 3d printers works, i mean how they read the stl file, what i mean is that when we are creating, say some character to be used in a video, i can make arms,legs,torso,head as separate objects and use the rig to hold them together, obviously we can make character with an all in one base mesh, i mean arm,toso,head and legs attached together but even there eyes and teeth happen to be separate objects and we use rig to hold them together. What i want to ask here is that, does the object to be printed need to be all in one mesh attached to each other in the stl file or will it work otherwise as well. For eample i am making an old design lock, now i can easily make it with a cube and a toros cut in half and snapped to one face of cube, will it work? obviously these are two seperate objects with half torous lying on a face of cube. Any help would be appreciated
Hey Muhammad Shahzaib Anwar, First thing is yes... a way a slicer for 3D printing looks at mesh is exactly as you think it needs to all be one mesh. If it's not one mesh then it's 2 separate meshes. Even if they are touching or intersecting they are still 2 mesh's. Now if you don't want to join them all together there is a website called makeprintable.com/ that does this for you. It does cost a bit and it does not give you perfect results. Now if you aren't aware I also have a full course to teach pretty much every element of blender to be able to make/edit these mesh's yourself. I hope that helps you out. ua-cam.com/play/PL6Fiih6ItYsXzUbBNz7-IvV7UJYHZzCdF.html
Hello and Happy New Year! Great tutorial, looks like the possibilities are endless, thanks for sharing. Liked + Subscribed + Notification Bell = I'll be watching :)
hey sarah, I'm more than happy to help you out with this but I have a feeling that doing it through this comment section will be a little hard. If you could join the discord and ask i'll be able to do my best to help.
I know this is 3 years old but this video was so difficult to deal with as a beginner. Just some advice - if you're creating a tutorial you should probably go the long way around selecting things rather than using short keys
Yeah, but no, cant seem to find out what youre doing at the beginning after the mesh verticies... This vid is a big F, Not really high didactive skills.
Nice video. When you use the Wireframe modifier, you can instantly close those open border edges by clicking on the "Boundary" option in the modifier itself. No need to go into edit mode there. The wireframe modifier will create a closed, watertight geometry if you have the boundary option checked.
Thanks for the tip Luxxeon!
I found this out a while after making this video and it really feels like I missed something pretty special there. Oh well, we all grow and learn.
Really liked this video! Some fantastic tips. I tend to use the displacement modifier to emboss the mesh with an alpha map to add a dragon or some other pattern to the mesh. It took me a while to figure it out but it is important to check the Stretch U and Stretch V boxes on the screw modifier or you will not get a UV map that can be used for displacement or some other functions.
I liked this a lot. Even in blender 3.5 now it is still aa very simple and effective method.
Interesting video. This task was a good example of Blender's strengths in creating more organic shapes. I also liked the clear presentation of the mouse and keyboard actions. An improvement for similar videos in future might be to take a few seconds to explain a key feature, in this case "What is vase mode?". That way beginners can build a mind map of features and terminology as well as techniques for creating cool stuff!
Cheers for the feedback Andrew, I very much agree with you. I should have done a little bit more of a setup. I'm glad you enjoyed it tho. I could not agree more and this shows off the organic nature of blender.
Wow! Inspiring. Now if I can just figure out how to use these techniques and make from wood. Now that will be freaking awesome.
Great, it encourages me to work on playlist 2.9.1, it's a lot of stuff to learn (and all the shortcuts ^^)
Enjoy!
Excellent tutorial! Thank you!
This is so cool, thsnk you man!
This was incredible!
Great, I have 0 experience with blender and am looking at it now
Well Gadgetismic,
I have a small precision course if not there is always Print That Things course which is pretty darn good too.
@@Keep-Making How did you make the vases in the photo for this video?
@@mindsofgreatness Are you asking how I rendered them out or how I actually designed them?
Wow, awesome 😍 Please more videos like this 🙏
Im new to 3d printing, why do we need to fill the top face of the vase ?
Thank you very much!
I did follow you step by step and I got a really cool 3d object but when I tried to export it in STL file it gave me too many red flags, I did repeat your video over and over and started from scratch it didn’t work out , I was planning to get the course and join your academy but if this video didn’t worked out I feel a hesitated to join your course
Thanks, great content... very helpful and practical! Just a question. When I try to execute the bool cut, instead of cutting the base flat as per your video, both the objects disappear. Would you know what's possibly wrong?
Excellent! thanks alot!
I am cimpletely new. What siftware are you using? Could you make a video to show how to convert a 2D vase png image to a 3D model ?
Could use the knife to cut off the bottom with the cut through whole model turned on to get an open bottom and then fill it with face. I was thinking you could use the lattice to twist or alter the shape of your vase further.
oh for sure. Thanks for the tip icedriver
Brilliant tutorial! Many thanks for this. So grateful to learn how to make a quick spline from a cube. Awesome......
Glad you enjoyed it!
Is there a way I can make a bezier curve, apply the screw modifier with the wall thickness going inwards, and then invert it so everything inside is the solid object I want? So essentially the inside wall of the screw object would be the outside wall of my solid part?
Are you looking to have a spiral vase ?
@@Keep-Making Hi, thanks for your response. I managed to solve it in the end by using the boolean modifiers to cut out the middle section. Sometimes the coplanar faces make the cut come out weirdly but I just go in and delete and rebuild the bad edges/faces with the new vertices.
Your content is invaluable 💎! I'm def boutta rock with this channel FASHO!!! 💙💯💯💯
Thank you so much 🤗
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
do you think it is anyhow possible to make moulds for any of the vases you printed?
I genuinely wonder if there is any aspect of scale manufacturing possible with complex geometric shapes like these. would be cool!
Good question... Hmm I think it's VERY design dependant. As I don't think the vorinno looking ones would ever be possible as a single vase mould. I would see how they might be possible as a bowl however. Or you could cut the vase design into two halves and then stick them later. It's tricky to make moulds ... But if you keep in mind the limitations of mould making there are definitely some things that can be done
Could you print in a material for investment casting process?
Your tutorial is great. I came across a problem which I am unsure as to what the cause is. It seems like for some reason my models bottom isn't coming out to be perfectly flat. In my splicing software, Cura, it seems to think there is a slight, visually unseeable bend, and highlights the area and red to show that it thinks it wont print well. This only goes away when I move the model down by around half a millimeter, which I suppose effectively flattens the object. Does anyone know why the model made in blender isn't coming out to be perfectly flat.
I'm not 100% sure what the problem is... But if you join the discord i'm happy to try and help you out.
I know there's a lot more to it, but it's hilarious that it takes 15 minutes to show a tutorial on how to make a vase in 5 minutes.
How do I get the apply button for triangulate? I don't have that option
How many steps would you think is necessary for the screw modifier if a part has radius about 1cm and the wall thickness (solidify modifier) is around 1mm? I did 64 steps and it seems smooth enough but I just wanted your opinion. The part is also going to be used to cast a silicone mould which will then be used to cast the positive part (which I am modelling) in silicone.
In reality, it's up to your taste, just think with an r of 1cm your circumference is 6.28 so 62.8mm. If you are planning to 3d print it may be your printer nozel is 0.4mm so I would say 64 would do but MAX resolution would be 62.8 / 0.4 = 157 steps would be your MAX res defined by your printer.
@@Keep-Making That makes sense, thank you!
I look at your tutorials with pleasure. Could you number them so we can read them in the correct ordre. Thank you
Hey Char, this particular video is not part of any of my tutorial series. I would advise that you take a look at my youtube channel where you will find the playlists and where every video is numbers in parts. 😃 Glad you are enjoying the videos
How do you get the 3d printing addon
er, what's vase mode and where do we find it
hi i have some basic strange question but let me ask it. I am new here and dont know how 3d printers works, i mean how they read the stl file, what i mean is that when we are creating, say some character to be used in a video, i can make arms,legs,torso,head as separate objects and use the rig to hold them together, obviously we can make character with an all in one base mesh, i mean arm,toso,head and legs attached together but even there eyes and teeth happen to be separate objects and we use rig to hold them together. What i want to ask here is that, does the object to be printed need to be all in one mesh attached to each other in the stl file or will it work otherwise as well. For eample i am making an old design lock, now i can easily make it with a cube and a toros cut in half and snapped to one face of cube, will it work? obviously these are two seperate objects with half torous lying on a face of cube. Any help would be appreciated
Anyone???
Hey Muhammad Shahzaib Anwar, First thing is yes... a way a slicer for 3D printing looks at mesh is exactly as you think it needs to all be one mesh. If it's not one mesh then it's 2 separate meshes. Even if they are touching or intersecting they are still 2 mesh's. Now if you don't want to join them all together there is a website called makeprintable.com/ that does this for you. It does cost a bit and it does not give you perfect results. Now if you aren't aware I also have a full course to teach pretty much every element of blender to be able to make/edit these mesh's yourself. I hope that helps you out. ua-cam.com/play/PL6Fiih6ItYsXzUbBNz7-IvV7UJYHZzCdF.html
Hello and Happy New Year! Great tutorial, looks like the possibilities are endless, thanks for sharing. Liked + Subscribed + Notification Bell = I'll be watching :)
What if you wanted to make a sculpture of a face into a vase - how could I do that easily?
hey sarah, I'm more than happy to help you out with this but I have a feeling that doing it through this comment section will be a little hard. If you could join the discord and ask i'll be able to do my best to help.
I know this is 3 years old but this video was so difficult to deal with as a beginner. Just some advice - if you're creating a tutorial you should probably go the long way around selecting things rather than using short keys
👍
Yeah, but no, cant seem to find out what youre doing at the beginning after the mesh verticies...
This vid is a big F, Not really high didactive skills.