Outstanding! I'm very happy to hear that. Thanks for following along. The paint shop may go on a little break, but there will be plenty of content on the channel until then.
Joe, Late to the video had eye surgery but good now. Great vid with the Air Brush, my buddies said you can not get good results on N scale with an AB. I bought a Sotar 2020 and it is one great AB small cup does not block your view of the car or Loco. Also I use a old snack box to adjust the paint output before I shoot my car or loco. Thanks
Thanks for the tips, and thanks for watching. Yes I’ve heard that before. People saying that an airbrush isn’t good for N scale. But if you have the right brush and use the right pressure, you can produce results that are fine enough for N scale.
I hand paint the trucks on my Locos' (Rail Brown) Then dry brush with white (Highlights). Micro Trains Trucks you can air brush (Rail Brown) and with wheels out and I swap out to metal wheels hand painting the outside of wheel again (Rail Brown). The paint doesn't effect the needle points what so ever and you can do a bunch quickly ! Good job on the cars ! 😀
As always, nice job. Weathering is a wonky thing. No one is ever going to like what you do. As long as you like it, the other comments and feedback don’t matter. As for the loco trucks, they can be a pain. I go ahead a disassemble and work to get them back the way they should be. Tedious does not begin to describe the process. Looking forward to your next video update.
Great video!! For the freight car trucks I use the cheap Amelia’s craft paint in Satin black as a base then burnt umber with a light mix of earth brown for the wheels and couplers. Still trying to learn airbrushing so I can experiment with fading. What can you mix the older poly scale with so they can be used in airbrush?
If I remember correctly Poly Scale was acrylic and Foquil paints were oil based. They were produced by Testors. However they were discontinued in 2013. So with that being said I would used deionized water and thin to the thickness of milk (roughly 2/3 paint and 1/3 water). You could added some air brush flow improver as well. But, this is a BIG but, do a test shoot first and see how the paint reacts. A couple of years ago I tried some poly scale dust and the "water base" had evaporated so the paint was very opaque and I ruined and locomotive shell. So use caution with those older paints that have been sitting, especially if it was opened!
@@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676 They have been sitting a while in the basement. Some I was able to revive with air brush thinner and others were shot. On another topic If you want to tinker around and you want to illuminate the red marker lights on your CR locos try red optical fiber in a .15 size. They make larger sizes as well. I just did a test on one of my CR Atlas C40-8s on the rear and its not bad and not overly bright. Still have to figure out how to bend it safely and secure it to the reverse LED.
Great video, Joe. Your paint shop episodes are very informative!
Outstanding! I'm very happy to hear that. Thanks for following along. The paint shop may go on a little break, but there will be plenty of content on the channel until then.
Cool weathering😊
Thank you and thanks for watching!
nice job for sure. the tank cars look bang on.
Thanks Sparky!
Joe, Late to the video had eye surgery but good now. Great vid with the Air Brush, my buddies said you can not get good results on N scale with an AB. I bought a Sotar 2020 and it is one great AB small cup does not block your view of the car or Loco. Also I use a old snack box to adjust the paint output before I shoot my car or loco. Thanks
Thanks for the tips, and thanks for watching. Yes I’ve heard that before. People saying that an airbrush isn’t good for N scale. But if you have the right brush and use the right pressure, you can produce results that are fine enough for N scale.
I hand paint the trucks on my Locos' (Rail Brown) Then dry brush with white (Highlights). Micro Trains Trucks you can air brush (Rail Brown) and with wheels out and I swap out to metal wheels hand painting the outside of wheel again (Rail Brown). The paint doesn't effect the needle points what so ever and you can do a bunch quickly ! Good job on the cars ! 😀
Thanks Jim! Thanks for watching.
As always, nice job. Weathering is a wonky thing. No one is ever going to like what you do. As long as you like it, the other comments and feedback don’t matter. As for the loco trucks, they can be a pain. I go ahead a disassemble and work to get them back the way they should be. Tedious does not begin to describe the process. Looking forward to your next video update.
Thank you for the encouraging words and tips. I'm glad that you liked the video!
Great video!! For the freight car trucks I use the cheap Amelia’s craft paint in Satin black as a base then burnt umber with a light mix of earth brown for the wheels and couplers. Still trying to learn airbrushing so I can experiment with fading. What can you mix the older poly scale with so they can be used in airbrush?
If I remember correctly Poly Scale was acrylic and Foquil paints were oil based. They were produced by Testors. However they were discontinued in 2013. So with that being said I would used deionized water and thin to the thickness of milk (roughly 2/3 paint and 1/3 water). You could added some air brush flow improver as well. But, this is a BIG but, do a test shoot first and see how the paint reacts. A couple of years ago I tried some poly scale dust and the "water base" had evaporated so the paint was very opaque and I ruined and locomotive shell. So use caution with those older paints that have been sitting, especially if it was opened!
@@centraljerseyconrailinnsca5676 They have been sitting a while in the basement. Some I was able to revive with air brush thinner and others were shot. On another topic If you want to tinker around and you want to illuminate the red marker lights on your CR locos try red optical fiber in a .15 size. They make larger sizes as well. I just did a test on one of my CR Atlas C40-8s on the rear and its not bad and not overly bright. Still have to figure out how to bend it safely and secure it to the reverse LED.