Just a little note for anyone who might be confused, for the l99 (automatic) the max engine speed is 6200, which is also the redline on the tachometer. The rev limiter is set at 6000. The reason the l99 is less is because of the weak afm (DoD) lifters. The lifters will likely fail prematurely if the engine revs over 6200rpm.
Thanks EJ, that's good for people to keep in mind and a good addition to this topic. GM engineers took some additional liberties with the LS3, like using lighter valves (which have less inertia), which allow the manual transmission vehicle to get up to 6600 without issue. However if memory serves, the electronic limiting may not have been 6600, even on LS3 equipped Camaros. I'm pretty sure I had to set mine.
@@ChrisCamaro Yes, so l99 guys like me are tasked with having to change out those pesky lifters if we ever want to do any serious modifications for performance. I guess I'll buy a couple of 12 packs when I decide to do that because i have a feeling I'm going to need them
@@liamkneeson8866 And unlike some engines that can't even make use of the upper RPM band, the LS engines tend to have pretty good heads on them from the factory so with fairly mild intake mods you can make power into the 6k range and actually benefit from setting your shift point there. My grand prix on the other hand would need a new top end and valvetrain to allow moving the shift points up. On the other hand, soft old-man shocks + torquey low-end = fun launches :D
Stock tune already uses VE for high power. It uses MAF during low power for better drivability and efficiency. Each has advantages and disadvantages which is why they are both used in the scenario where one is more beneficial. The main reason a tuner might go VE only is in boosted applications. The stock tune was developed by engineers who are very smart. HP tuners doesn't even access countless other tables in the ECU. While some of the motivation of the stock tune is fuel economy and regulation, keep in mind some of the principals of low fuel economy translate to power gains. Getting the most out of the displacement and fuel is efficiency.
And I don't disagree with most of that. However one additional mandate (there are more) is environmental regulations. The "very smart" engineers aren't necessarily trying to make your car run as fast as it can, nor can they. They serve a broad market and there's a considerable tolerance stack-up of conditions such as temperature, humidity, air pressure gasoline chemistry, manufacturing variability, sensor calibration, etc, etc. They wouldn't be commercially successful if only some of the cars worked awesome while the rest didn't work at all so they have to detune the car to a degree so it will run acceptably everywhere. That's far more important to their bottom line than making sure Joe Blow gets his 15 extra HP. I've got nothing against a MAF sensor. It's a marvelous piece of engineering. However it doesn't have the granularity of a VE system. VE relies on no less than 3 different sensor inputs (RPM, MAP, IAT), whereas all of that data is compressed into a single measurement with a MAF sensor. This is why MAF sensors suck at high Reynold's numbers, where the flow is too turbulent and the latency of the sensor too slow to get an accurate reading. Breaking that up into 3 pieces gives much higher resolution. Not to mention the extra resolutions handles far more loading conditions that would otherwise be represented by the same cell in a MAF table. So if the MAF reads 2500Hz, it doesn't know if you're towing a trailer in Alaska on a mountain or decelerating down a hill in a valley in Arizona. VE's main problem is it is not self-correcting but once you get it dialed in, it'll outperform a MAF sensor any day of the week and keep annoying problems like incipient knock at bay.
Great video man, thanks! About to buy a mpvi2 and start learning. Btw if you ever get time you should go over how to tune the vvt cam for us l99 folks.
Thanks for the suggestion. I've tuned cams for other cars before so I can discuss that. I won't necessarily be able to provide a real world example but I could discuss the theory of how to do it. BTW, if you want even more information on tuning than what's provided here, be sure to check out my 3 part series for open loop VE tuning. ua-cam.com/video/ppBJZL1rJCA/v-deo.html
@@liamkneeson8866 I certainly do appreciate that. My goal is to be able to provide my subscribers with programs, widgets, examples and other hands-on stuff that will make tuning more autonomous and less of a chore but I need to get to 1000 subs first so I can unlock the community tab and do all that!
@@ChrisCamaro I'm surprised you're not well above 1000 yet, I bet if you posted your links in the camaro5 forum and other similar areas you'd get a bigger following quicker. Though I'm sure you've already thought of that
Great video! Thanks for the wisdom man but what caused a tune to come out of calibration? And what impact does that have on a hand held tuner? Thanks man!
Cars fall out of calibration because of the condition of the sensors and the environment itself. For example the car may have been tuned in Detroit but the customer is driving it in Alaska. Sensors don't have such a wide range of sensitivity to cover both extremes accurately so error will arise. Also the MAF sensor gets coated in grease and dirt over time and responds to airflow differently after that. Engine deposits can cause detonation at spark values that were fine before... the list goes on. The point of tuning an N/A car is to calibrate everything for precisely the conditions that exist at that point in time. This restores lost power. The free power comes from eating into the "tolerance" or "safety factor" that the plant assumes when they come up with their generic tune. Usually this involves adding spark, leaning out the fuel, etc. which I cover to some extent in the video but basically you are trading margin and slop in the initial tune for extra power.
A tune comes out of calibration just from driving it. Sometimes it's dirt, wear and tear, weather or any number of things. A handheld tuner (which I assume you mean has a preset tune in it) will not adapt for these kinds of changes. It'll just change some settings, which is fine but it's not going to be as good as a custom tune.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2010 SS auto, what do I need to adjust to get some wheel spin. With traction control and stabilitrack off it will only chirp, once it gets going it's quick. I would like to be able to spin them once and a while. I had a guy with HD tuner shut off AFM and reduce the engine TM but it didn't make much difference. Thanks Scott
Getting wheel spin is only possible if the torque output of the car exceeds the traction of the wheels. So if you eliminate all traction control and all torque management, you may still be unable to get wheel spin if there's not enough torque or too much grip. Having said that, an SS auto has what.. 410 or something torque? First you must deactivate traction control but that's pretty easy since there's a button for that. Hold it down for at least 10 seconds to get it to turn off completely. Then since you have an auto, press the brakes and gas at the same time so the car doesn't move and get the RPMs up to around 3000. Don't do this for a very long time as it is hard on the torque converter but if you let off the brakes quickly enough and floor the gas at the same time, you should break traction. You can also just apply brakes enough to do a burnout. The SS has 275s on the rear so it's not trivial to break traction but with the TCS off and prespooling the TC you should be able to do it.
After rewatching this and doing a little research, I'm under the impression that the stock tune uses a hybrid of both the maf and ve tables. Is this correct? Looks like it only depends fully on maf over a certain number of revs, maybe 4000.
That is essentially correct. For a STOCK tune, the MAF is used for closed loop mode only. The scope of what closed loop entails depends on how your car is set up to enter into PE mode. Whatever throttle position you picked for that will determine when PE mode enables and closed loop is disabled. At that point you are relying on the crappy VE table that comes with the car. By getting the custom OS, your VE table becomes much much bigger and the car stops relying on the maf at all.
@@ChrisCamaro I see, I had it completely backwards then. For a stock tune, I thought the MAF was used by itself only in PE (open loop) events, such as WOT. And I thought the hybrid combination of VE and MAF was used while in closed loop. So I had it backward. Guess I better get back to reading lol. Thanks for taking the time to explain.
@@liamkneeson8866 No problem. I guess the takeaway is, VE is always more important because it is the basis for for more ECU calculations and is used when you stomp on the gas anyway so the MAF is really only important for steady-state conditions and only with a stock tune or one where it is still in use.
Hi. very very dense content. I am going to buy the MPVI2 to tune my SS to gain a couple of 'keen', but hey do I need to buy any additional air sensor? I am getting lost now :-/
Sorry, my youtube skills are still growing lol. So about the air sensor: IF you are planning to run boost (super or turbo), then you will want a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor that handles more than 1 bar like a 2 bar or a 3 bar. This will be able to detect the boost. It will also allow you to disable the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor so you can run in open loop, if you want to do that.
I was told by a little birdy that tuning software can help me bypass the readiness tests on the cars ecu for emissions tests. I cannot for the life of me get the o2 sensors and the evap sensor to clear. Is this actually true to your knowledge?
Theoretically, you can disable all the emissions sensors so they don't indicate a fail but as far as the readiness of the ECU, I don't know of any way of tampering with it. You simply have to drive the car for a certain amount of miles/time for the new parameters to settle in before the ECU will report ready on all the different subsystems that get checked in an emissions test. So if you reprogram the car and go in for your test, you'll fail whether the car is in good shape or not.
If you've installed long tube headers or test pipes, then chances are that you've most likely triggered a few different codes, but it depends on which. I opted for Speed Engineering long tubes, which default you to offroad connection pipes, and these cause a P0137/0157 O2 CEL, due to the difference in voltage/exhaust flow detected. This is common still, even if you run high flow cats on your LT's and have the O2's where they should be (placed AFTER the HFC's). Similar to the P0137/0157 is the P1133/1153, which is where the primary/upstream front o2 sensors detect a difference in warmup, due to their re-location; same as the secondary o2 sensors. These, however, aren't going to cause any lean or rich fluctuations in your air-fuel ratio, so getting them tuned out is what most tuners do. However, the important part is probably throwing your stock exhaust manifolds/headers on EARLY (if you have upcoming emissions/smog testing), in order to cycle through your emissions, EVAP, EGR, etc. Assuming your stock exhaust manifolds/headers and cats are good, as well as the o2 sensors, you should look up how to cycle the emissions and EVAP system. It includes getting the engine/coolant up to operating temps, getting up to 45+ mph or freeway speeds, running the AC under load and decelerating, etc. It should be a fairly simply process to manage within 100-300, maybe 500 miles at the most, assuming that you don't have any exhaust leaks or other issues with any other emissions-related hardware.
With HPTuners you need to purchase the license for each VIN number you intend to tune. It's not open source tuning and the files are encrypted so you can't tune somebody else's car. You would have to purchase the HPTuners hardware and then probably 2 credits for your specific VIN and then tune locally. That is the only way until HPTuners changes their system.
Lol yeah I'm really sorry about that. It had something to do with the capture soft not liking the particular window in focus because it goes away when I start working on something else. I didn't see the flicker until after processing the video, which is a total noob mistake since I should always check my videos before publishing.
@@ChrisCamaro If you have a nvidia GPU i would recommend trying shadowplay in nvidia's g-force experience application. In the shadowplay settings if you're having trouble capturing a window you can just enable desktop capture in private settings inside the shadowplay settings, really handy.
@@imperial1037 Good advice for Nvidia users but incidently I have always used ATI products. Not sure if they have a similar issue. Their drivers are not always good.
@@NA-hb3fw The tuning process is pretty much the same for most cars of a similar architecture. The main differences are the actual values in the tables but if you're making relative changes (+1 degree of spark or -2% fuel), then it's not so bad. You just have to apply the same logic as what's in the video to your specific car. If course if you get stuck and have a specific question you can ask it here.
@@ChrisCamaro Is there anyway you can PM me so I can get some more help, I just bought the HP Tuner and am new to tuning, I have no idea what to change for an optimal tune.
@@NA-hb3fw To the best of my knowledge, PMs are not a feature permitted on youtube. However before you start changing anything in your tune, the first step is to do a road scan. Without the current data from your car, you would have no idea what to change and by how much. You should set up your VCM scanner program, connect your OBDII and go for a drive, recording about an hour of data before even thinking of uploading any changes to the car. Otherwise you could make things worse.
I'm not sure I get what you're asking. If by CMD, you are referring to the DOS prompt in windows, then no, not that I'm aware of. You would need a PCM interface such as HPTuners or EFI Live.
Can you give me email so i can sent you file...i got full original file from car ecu...it just need to be modded(for cat delete,tune,pops whatever) and write back to the car...
@@YMFS360 As you may be unfamiliar with these hardware tuning devices, the way they work is, you have to purchase a license for the VIN number of the car you wish to tune. You cannot tune more than 1 car per license. You also cannot modify a file from another car that your hardware does not support. The only way to modify your tune would be to have the HPTuners/EFI hardware, to have purchased the license for your specific car and then to make the modifications. The suppliers of these tuners aggressively protect their intellectual property and have taken steps to prevent people from tuning each others' vehicles.
My camaro does have a wideband, yes. However it's important to cover the basics for cars that may or may not have one, as both techniques are important to understand and know.
@@ChrisCamaro Thanks. Are you saying your camaro already had wideband or that you added it in? Is it possible to have a car that has wide band stock? Sorry, very new to this. I just bought a wrecked 2010 ss manual that I'm going to be swapping at least the ls3 and tranny out of and in my excitement I'm getting ahead of myself.
@@CalebsHobbies No problem. No, the wideband is not an OEM option. Typically this is the case with most cars in general that I'm aware of (although I may simply be unaware of newer cars that come with one). I bought mine from AEM. You simply need to drill a hole in the exhaust below the headers and weld a bung to screw the sensor in. The rest is just wiring. While the sensor cannot directly control the car's AFR, it is invaluable for tuning purposes and necessary for any speed density tune.
@@BaconKuna Sorry I don't have instagram. As a rule of thumb I don't give out my contact info either and I haven't yet figured out if it's possible to send PMs on youtube. If you don't mind giving me your email or maybe facebook, I can get you that way.
It doesn't work that way. Anybody can download any tune file they want but HPTuners prevents you from using it because they encrypt all the files. You can only use a file that was taken from your car's VIN number, which you are registered to use. You have to pay for every VIN you register to and can't swap files back and forth between cars.
oh I see now. I have the license for my vin already which was two credits. Do I need more credits? Also I’m new to tuning and would like to learn but I’m having trouble understanding the charts where there are a lot of numbers. I don’t want to change the numbers to anything that will damage my vehicle
@@GG_Jared You don't need more credits to tune your own car. There's just no way for others to tune your car unless they're standing in your driveway, due to how HPT encrypts their files so they can prevent people from getting free tuning services. Which table are you worried about modifying? Most tables have a healthy enough tolerance that they could be 25% off or more and still function. I say that with a grain of salt but the point is that most tables you would be interested in modifying do not require laser precision and the consequences of getting the numbers wrong are usually not catastrophic to the car.
@@GG_Jared What you are referring to (also known as Bang and Pop) is a combination of DFCO (Deceleration Fuel Cut Off) and retarding the spark a LOT. So you find your DFCO tables and make sure to enable the fuel cut-off based on the conditions of your choosing and you will see them listed there. Then you want to make it so that at low manifold pressures, while decelerating, your spark goes from normally advanced numbers to retarded values in the vicinity of 20 degrees or more ATDC (after top dead center). What'll happen is, you release the gas pedal, the injectors shut off but leave the cylinders wet with fuel, the spark plug fires really late in the cycle and the wet fuel vapours ignite and are still on fire when the exhaust valve opens so a fireball gets shot out your exhaust. Since the fuel is off, the fumes only ignite at random when enough has evaporated, making a random crackling or backfiring sound.
It depends on whether or not your OS has been upgraded or already supports VE tables. Stock tunes generally do not support primary VE tables so they fill them with 0s to indicate that the table is not used. You have to upgrade the OS first using something like HPT or EFI Live and then you can fill the table in with values. You can get the values from another car as a starting point and adjust from there after you road scan the car.
Just a little note for anyone who might be confused, for the l99 (automatic) the max engine speed is 6200, which is also the redline on the tachometer. The rev limiter is set at 6000. The reason the l99 is less is because of the weak afm (DoD) lifters. The lifters will likely fail prematurely if the engine revs over 6200rpm.
Thanks EJ, that's good for people to keep in mind and a good addition to this topic. GM engineers took some additional liberties with the LS3, like using lighter valves (which have less inertia), which allow the manual transmission vehicle to get up to 6600 without issue. However if memory serves, the electronic limiting may not have been 6600, even on LS3 equipped Camaros. I'm pretty sure I had to set mine.
@@ChrisCamaro Yes, so l99 guys like me are tasked with having to change out those pesky lifters if we ever want to do any serious modifications for performance. I guess I'll buy a couple of 12 packs when I decide to do that because i have a feeling I'm going to need them
@@liamkneeson8866 And unlike some engines that can't even make use of the upper RPM band, the LS engines tend to have pretty good heads on them from the factory so with fairly mild intake mods you can make power into the 6k range and actually benefit from setting your shift point there. My grand prix on the other hand would need a new top end and valvetrain to allow moving the shift points up. On the other hand, soft old-man shocks + torquey low-end = fun launches :D
@@ChrisCamaroHaha that's true. Good info, thanks man.
Exceptionally informative Chris, thanks for taking the time to do this 😊
Stock tune already uses VE for high power. It uses MAF during low power for better drivability and efficiency. Each has advantages and disadvantages which is why they are both used in the scenario where one is more beneficial. The main reason a tuner might go VE only is in boosted applications. The stock tune was developed by engineers who are very smart. HP tuners doesn't even access countless other tables in the ECU. While some of the motivation of the stock tune is fuel economy and regulation, keep in mind some of the principals of low fuel economy translate to power gains. Getting the most out of the displacement and fuel is efficiency.
And I don't disagree with most of that. However one additional mandate (there are more) is environmental regulations. The "very smart" engineers aren't necessarily trying to make your car run as fast as it can, nor can they. They serve a broad market and there's a considerable tolerance stack-up of conditions such as temperature, humidity, air pressure gasoline chemistry, manufacturing variability, sensor calibration, etc, etc. They wouldn't be commercially successful if only some of the cars worked awesome while the rest didn't work at all so they have to detune the car to a degree so it will run acceptably everywhere. That's far more important to their bottom line than making sure Joe Blow gets his 15 extra HP. I've got nothing against a MAF sensor. It's a marvelous piece of engineering. However it doesn't have the granularity of a VE system. VE relies on no less than 3 different sensor inputs (RPM, MAP, IAT), whereas all of that data is compressed into a single measurement with a MAF sensor. This is why MAF sensors suck at high Reynold's numbers, where the flow is too turbulent and the latency of the sensor too slow to get an accurate reading. Breaking that up into 3 pieces gives much higher resolution. Not to mention the extra resolutions handles far more loading conditions that would otherwise be represented by the same cell in a MAF table. So if the MAF reads 2500Hz, it doesn't know if you're towing a trailer in Alaska on a mountain or decelerating down a hill in a valley in Arizona. VE's main problem is it is not self-correcting but once you get it dialed in, it'll outperform a MAF sensor any day of the week and keep annoying problems like incipient knock at bay.
3:37 VE table vs MAF, end of flashing screen
Thanks. Kind of embarrassing that I had to put up with that but I didn't want to redo the entire video to fix it.
Great video man, thanks! About to buy a mpvi2 and start learning. Btw if you ever get time you should go over how to tune the vvt cam for us l99 folks.
Thanks for the suggestion. I've tuned cams for other cars before so I can discuss that. I won't necessarily be able to provide a real world example but I could discuss the theory of how to do it. BTW, if you want even more information on tuning than what's provided here, be sure to check out my 3 part series for open loop VE tuning. ua-cam.com/video/ppBJZL1rJCA/v-deo.html
@@ChrisCamaro I will be checking that out right now! You're by far the best teacher on tuning that I've come by so far
@@liamkneeson8866 I certainly do appreciate that. My goal is to be able to provide my subscribers with programs, widgets, examples and other hands-on stuff that will make tuning more autonomous and less of a chore but I need to get to 1000 subs first so I can unlock the community tab and do all that!
@@ChrisCamaro I'm surprised you're not well above 1000 yet, I bet if you posted your links in the camaro5 forum and other similar areas you'd get a bigger following quicker. Though I'm sure you've already thought of that
Can you write and email tunes if I were to send you all modifications I made to my car ?
Do you have hptuners?
Great video! Thanks for the wisdom man but what caused a tune to come out of calibration? And what impact does that have on a hand held tuner? Thanks man!
Cars fall out of calibration because of the condition of the sensors and the environment itself. For example the car may have been tuned in Detroit but the customer is driving it in Alaska. Sensors don't have such a wide range of sensitivity to cover both extremes accurately so error will arise. Also the MAF sensor gets coated in grease and dirt over time and responds to airflow differently after that. Engine deposits can cause detonation at spark values that were fine before... the list goes on. The point of tuning an N/A car is to calibrate everything for precisely the conditions that exist at that point in time. This restores lost power. The free power comes from eating into the "tolerance" or "safety factor" that the plant assumes when they come up with their generic tune. Usually this involves adding spark, leaning out the fuel, etc. which I cover to some extent in the video but basically you are trading margin and slop in the initial tune for extra power.
A tune comes out of calibration just from driving it. Sometimes it's dirt, wear and tear, weather or any number of things. A handheld tuner (which I assume you mean has a preset tune in it) will not adapt for these kinds of changes. It'll just change some settings, which is fine but it's not going to be as good as a custom tune.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2010 SS auto, what do I need to adjust to get some wheel spin. With traction control and stabilitrack off it will only chirp, once it gets going it's quick. I would like to be able to spin them once and a while. I had a guy with HD tuner shut off AFM and reduce the engine TM but it didn't make much difference. Thanks Scott
Getting wheel spin is only possible if the torque output of the car exceeds the traction of the wheels. So if you eliminate all traction control and all torque management, you may still be unable to get wheel spin if there's not enough torque or too much grip. Having said that, an SS auto has what.. 410 or something torque? First you must deactivate traction control but that's pretty easy since there's a button for that. Hold it down for at least 10 seconds to get it to turn off completely. Then since you have an auto, press the brakes and gas at the same time so the car doesn't move and get the RPMs up to around 3000. Don't do this for a very long time as it is hard on the torque converter but if you let off the brakes quickly enough and floor the gas at the same time, you should break traction. You can also just apply brakes enough to do a burnout. The SS has 275s on the rear so it's not trivial to break traction but with the TCS off and prespooling the TC you should be able to do it.
After rewatching this and doing a little research, I'm under the impression that the stock tune uses a hybrid of both the maf and ve tables. Is this correct? Looks like it only depends fully on maf over a certain number of revs, maybe 4000.
That is essentially correct. For a STOCK tune, the MAF is used for closed loop mode only. The scope of what closed loop entails depends on how your car is set up to enter into PE mode. Whatever throttle position you picked for that will determine when PE mode enables and closed loop is disabled. At that point you are relying on the crappy VE table that comes with the car. By getting the custom OS, your VE table becomes much much bigger and the car stops relying on the maf at all.
@@ChrisCamaro I see, I had it completely backwards then. For a stock tune, I thought the MAF was used by itself only in PE (open loop) events, such as WOT. And I thought the hybrid combination of VE and MAF was used while in closed loop. So I had it backward. Guess I better get back to reading lol. Thanks for taking the time to explain.
@@liamkneeson8866 No problem. I guess the takeaway is, VE is always more important because it is the basis for for more ECU calculations and is used when you stomp on the gas anyway so the MAF is really only important for steady-state conditions and only with a stock tune or one where it is still in use.
Hi. very very dense content. I am going to buy the MPVI2 to tune my SS to gain a couple of 'keen', but hey do I need to buy any additional air sensor? I am getting lost now :-/
Sorry, my youtube skills are still growing lol. So about the air sensor: IF you are planning to run boost (super or turbo), then you will want a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor that handles more than 1 bar like a 2 bar or a 3 bar. This will be able to detect the boost. It will also allow you to disable the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor so you can run in open loop, if you want to do that.
Couldn’t make my mind up what way to go Holley stand alone Ecu or HP tuners . Do you have any input on this .
Yes, always go for the option that allows you to make changes in the future. Canned tunes might work but can never be changed. Go HPTuners.
I was told by a little birdy that tuning software can help me bypass the readiness tests on the cars ecu for emissions tests. I cannot for the life of me get the o2 sensors and the evap sensor to clear. Is this actually true to your knowledge?
Theoretically, you can disable all the emissions sensors so they don't indicate a fail but as far as the readiness of the ECU, I don't know of any way of tampering with it. You simply have to drive the car for a certain amount of miles/time for the new parameters to settle in before the ECU will report ready on all the different subsystems that get checked in an emissions test. So if you reprogram the car and go in for your test, you'll fail whether the car is in good shape or not.
If you've installed long tube headers or test pipes, then chances are that you've most likely triggered a few different codes, but it depends on which. I opted for Speed Engineering long tubes, which default you to offroad connection pipes, and these cause a P0137/0157 O2 CEL, due to the difference in voltage/exhaust flow detected. This is common still, even if you run high flow cats on your LT's and have the O2's where they should be (placed AFTER the HFC's).
Similar to the P0137/0157 is the P1133/1153, which is where the primary/upstream front o2 sensors detect a difference in warmup, due to their re-location; same as the secondary o2 sensors. These, however, aren't going to cause any lean or rich fluctuations in your air-fuel ratio, so getting them tuned out is what most tuners do. However, the important part is probably throwing your stock exhaust manifolds/headers on EARLY (if you have upcoming emissions/smog testing), in order to cycle through your emissions, EVAP, EGR, etc.
Assuming your stock exhaust manifolds/headers and cats are good, as well as the o2 sensors, you should look up how to cycle the emissions and EVAP system. It includes getting the engine/coolant up to operating temps, getting up to 45+ mph or freeway speeds, running the AC under load and decelerating, etc. It should be a fairly simply process to manage within 100-300, maybe 500 miles at the most, assuming that you don't have any exhaust leaks or other issues with any other emissions-related hardware.
Can u make a tune for a 2020 Camaro lt1 stock only have jlt cold air intake I have go tuners
With HPTuners you need to purchase the license for each VIN number you intend to tune. It's not open source tuning and the files are encrypted so you can't tune somebody else's car. You would have to purchase the HPTuners hardware and then probably 2 credits for your specific VIN and then tune locally. That is the only way until HPTuners changes their system.
0:00 - 3:24 Free epilepsy test.
Lol yeah I'm really sorry about that. It had something to do with the capture soft not liking the particular window in focus because it goes away when I start working on something else. I didn't see the flicker until after processing the video, which is a total noob mistake since I should always check my videos before publishing.
@@ChrisCamaro If you have a nvidia GPU i would recommend trying shadowplay in nvidia's g-force experience application. In the shadowplay settings if you're having trouble capturing a window you can just enable desktop capture in private settings inside the shadowplay settings, really handy.
@@imperial1037 Good advice for Nvidia users but incidently I have always used ATI products. Not sure if they have a similar issue. Their drivers are not always good.
I am getting it .
Will these tune recommendations work on a 2015 Camaro V6?
And is there anyway you could help me understand how to tune? I'm buying the hp tuner from summit tomorrow and just need some help!
@@NA-hb3fw The tuning process is pretty much the same for most cars of a similar architecture. The main differences are the actual values in the tables but if you're making relative changes (+1 degree of spark or -2% fuel), then it's not so bad. You just have to apply the same logic as what's in the video to your specific car. If course if you get stuck and have a specific question you can ask it here.
@@ChrisCamaro Is there anyway you can PM me so I can get some more help, I just bought the HP Tuner and am new to tuning, I have no idea what to change for an optimal tune.
@@NA-hb3fw To the best of my knowledge, PMs are not a feature permitted on youtube. However before you start changing anything in your tune, the first step is to do a road scan. Without the current data from your car, you would have no idea what to change and by how much. You should set up your VCM scanner program, connect your OBDII and go for a drive, recording about an hour of data before even thinking of uploading any changes to the car. Otherwise you could make things worse.
@@ChrisCamaro I also can't find dfco entry and exit spark, have any ideas where to find it?
Can you tune original file read with CMD?
I'm not sure I get what you're asking. If by CMD, you are referring to the DOS prompt in windows, then no, not that I'm aware of. You would need a PCM interface such as HPTuners or EFI Live.
Can you give me email so i can sent you file...i got full original file from car ecu...it just need to be modded(for cat delete,tune,pops whatever) and write back to the car...
@@YMFS360 As you may be unfamiliar with these hardware tuning devices, the way they work is, you have to purchase a license for the VIN number of the car you wish to tune. You cannot tune more than 1 car per license. You also cannot modify a file from another car that your hardware does not support. The only way to modify your tune would be to have the HPTuners/EFI hardware, to have purchased the license for your specific car and then to make the modifications. The suppliers of these tuners aggressively protect their intellectual property and have taken steps to prevent people from tuning each others' vehicles.
Were you using wideband for this?
My camaro does have a wideband, yes. However it's important to cover the basics for cars that may or may not have one, as both techniques are important to understand and know.
@@ChrisCamaro Thanks. Are you saying your camaro already had wideband or that you added it in? Is it possible to have a car that has wide band stock? Sorry, very new to this. I just bought a wrecked 2010 ss manual that I'm going to be swapping at least the ls3 and tranny out of and in my excitement I'm getting ahead of myself.
@@CalebsHobbies No problem. No, the wideband is not an OEM option. Typically this is the case with most cars in general that I'm aware of (although I may simply be unaware of newer cars that come with one). I bought mine from AEM. You simply need to drill a hole in the exhaust below the headers and weld a bung to screw the sensor in. The rest is just wiring. While the sensor cannot directly control the car's AFR, it is invaluable for tuning purposes and necessary for any speed density tune.
do you do remote tuning? how much do you charge?
Yes but I need to check if your car is compatible first. What car do you want tuned? Year make, model and trim level?
@@ChrisCamaro camaro 2014 v6 rs package
@@BaconKuna That is compatible. Where can I contact you at?
@@ChrisCamaro tell me your instagram and ill message you there
@@BaconKuna Sorry I don't have instagram. As a rule of thumb I don't give out my contact info either and I haven't yet figured out if it's possible to send PMs on youtube. If you don't mind giving me your email or maybe facebook, I can get you that way.
I have HPtuners and a 2013 Camaro v6 with the LFX engine. Can you send me the tune?
It doesn't work that way. Anybody can download any tune file they want but HPTuners prevents you from using it because they encrypt all the files. You can only use a file that was taken from your car's VIN number, which you are registered to use. You have to pay for every VIN you register to and can't swap files back and forth between cars.
oh I see now. I have the license for my vin already which was two credits. Do I need more credits? Also I’m new to tuning and would like to learn but I’m having trouble understanding the charts where there are a lot of numbers. I don’t want to change the numbers to anything that will damage my vehicle
@@GG_Jared You don't need more credits to tune your own car. There's just no way for others to tune your car unless they're standing in your driveway, due to how HPT encrypts their files so they can prevent people from getting free tuning services. Which table are you worried about modifying? Most tables have a healthy enough tolerance that they could be 25% off or more and still function. I say that with a grain of salt but the point is that most tables you would be interested in modifying do not require laser precision and the consequences of getting the numbers wrong are usually not catastrophic to the car.
@@ChrisCamaro I was wanting to give it a “burble” on deceleration. Not sure which table to use for that
@@GG_Jared What you are referring to (also known as Bang and Pop) is a combination of DFCO (Deceleration Fuel Cut Off) and retarding the spark a LOT. So you find your DFCO tables and make sure to enable the fuel cut-off based on the conditions of your choosing and you will see them listed there. Then you want to make it so that at low manifold pressures, while decelerating, your spark goes from normally advanced numbers to retarded values in the vicinity of 20 degrees or more ATDC (after top dead center). What'll happen is, you release the gas pedal, the injectors shut off but leave the cylinders wet with fuel, the spark plug fires really late in the cycle and the wet fuel vapours ignite and are still on fire when the exhaust valve opens so a fireball gets shot out your exhaust. Since the fuel is off, the fumes only ignite at random when enough has evaporated, making a random crackling or backfiring sound.
How did u populate the ve table when i did it my ve table had all zeros in it
It depends on whether or not your OS has been upgraded or already supports VE tables. Stock tunes generally do not support primary VE tables so they fill them with 0s to indicate that the table is not used. You have to upgrade the OS first using something like HPT or EFI Live and then you can fill the table in with values. You can get the values from another car as a starting point and adjust from there after you road scan the car.
The VE table is normally not used. You have to upgrade the OS first to enable use of the VE table. This is an upgrade option with HPT
Great Video but bias toward early gen5 .