You must be expert in electronics! usually I can focus on mechanical aspect only due to lack of knowledge of electronics.. Oscilloscope reminds me some experiments of my university days...but I forgot them. Anyway your video is so impressive and amazing, thank you!
Hi, thanks, this encourages me doing videos. I develop electronic for living, and it is also my hobby thats why i always had the oscilloscope (first was a super used tektronix)while i m usually terrible on esthetics paint and mechanics.
I used the components you listed and followed instructions. The buzzing is almost completely gone, cannot be heard while driving even at slow speed as gearbox is louder. Thank you, great tutorial!
Wow, I had wondered if there were any methods for this. I mean I love my D12 but if I'm using it at night, I worry about the noise. Was not expecting such a detailed video, impressive. Now to see if my soldering skills are up to the task, once my new D12 arrives.
Hi Yes, this is really improving a lot But the final mod is the cheap brushless direct drive. Please check it on my channel, super silent, batteru last forever, speed is super
Hallo Fabio, Great…fantastic tutorial…many, many THANKS…🙏🙏🙏 I am doing RC since over 40 years and was racing 1:10th scale electric off-road for many years on quite high competition level, mainly in times before nowadays comfort of brushless and LiPo technologies 😉🧐😂😊. I have generally quite good understanding for electric physics and this helped me a lot in those racing times working with brushed motors and NiCa and NiMH batteries on competition level. Understanding and handling your electrical equipment was a key-factor to have a chance to be successful… I remember my fist ever race with a 6 cell 1200mAh "Red" SANYO NiCa battery, a REEDY 15 turns modified motor and TEKIN ESC…so, racing a buggy for 5 minutes and the following last lap in the dirt took quite some energy management… 😉🧐😂😊 Like said, I was lucky, because I already understood quite a lot and I knew how to find best ways to learn more and more… But I am honest…I never came as fare as you in ways, like you handle this given "problem"… WoW…! Really good and again many thanks for sharing your knowledge in such practical manner with us… 🙏🙏🙏 Keep on having a great RC FUN time…!!! 🍀
Many thanks for encouraging PS I also had sanyo cells in the past, i still have them around 1700mAh. Now lipo and brushless are so much better, but still was a big emotion to see some power in that way in the past
For the inductor, which one should I used: CD127 10 uH SMD 5A, CD53 10 uH SMD 0.5A, or CD43 10 uH SMD 1.5A? Because those are the only availables on my local shop.
I didn t notice this Maybe the minimum is becoming little higher . Now i dis the brushless conversion iproposed in my channel, which is the beeeeest mod you can do, but i can not test back the noise mod
Fabio, ho apprezzato i tuoi video, mi domandavo se scrivi dall'italia, e se magari potevo contattarti di persona 👍 o un link al tuo profilo Facebook (ti ringrazio in anticipo)
I just tried this with two different inductor and the result is the same. The ESC cannot normally worked and can't have proportional control (only maximum speed)
I've tried the two electrolitic capacitors 330uF connected in series with a 110uH inductor, the inductor started heading quite hard and the motor response was slow. Then changed the inductor for a bigger one of 220 uH this worked well. The inductor is not as hot anymore but I will try getting one 2000 or 3000uF and hopefully it will improve even more. The noise reduced significantly and still good control of the motor at low RPM
Good to know If the inductors was heating means that the copper wire was too thin 2000uF willl show less noise for sure You can lower thi indictor to 10uH , this will heat less (for the same external size)
Update. I've got new components and it works great now. For inductor I've used a CD54 SMD 10uH power inductor, and a 2200uF 25V Low ESR Panasonic Capacitor. The noise is like none existing and the inductor does not heat up anymore.
Ho, A litte will remain, but I think is much reduced. If you want to go to almost silence, i think you have to Increase capacitor values to 3300uF for instance
You must be expert in electronics! usually I can focus on mechanical aspect only due to lack of knowledge of electronics.. Oscilloscope reminds me some experiments of my university days...but I forgot them. Anyway your video is so impressive and amazing, thank you!
Hi, thanks, this encourages me doing videos. I develop electronic for living, and it is also my hobby thats why i always had the oscilloscope (first was a super used tektronix)while i m usually terrible on esthetics paint and mechanics.
I used the components you listed and followed instructions. The buzzing is almost completely gone, cannot be heard while driving even at slow speed as gearbox is louder. Thank you, great tutorial!
Happy about this
Wow, I had wondered if there were any methods for this. I mean I love my D12 but if I'm using it at night, I worry about the noise. Was not expecting such a detailed video, impressive. Now to see if my soldering skills are up to the task, once my new D12 arrives.
Hi
Yes, this is really improving a lot
But the final mod is the cheap brushless direct drive. Please check it on my channel, super silent, batteru last forever, speed is super
very nice tutorial for reduce sound noisy
Just did this on my D32 - 2x 2200 capacitors, not a sound! Great tutorial, thanks
What inductor did you use?
Hallo Fabio,
Great…fantastic tutorial…many, many THANKS…🙏🙏🙏
I am doing RC since over 40 years and was racing 1:10th scale electric off-road for many years on quite high competition level, mainly in times before nowadays comfort of brushless and LiPo technologies 😉🧐😂😊. I have generally quite good understanding for electric physics and this helped me a lot in those racing times working with brushed motors and NiCa and NiMH batteries on competition level. Understanding and handling your electrical equipment was a key-factor to have a chance to be successful…
I remember my fist ever race with a 6 cell 1200mAh "Red" SANYO NiCa battery, a REEDY 15 turns modified motor and TEKIN ESC…so, racing a buggy for 5 minutes and the following last lap in the dirt took quite some energy management… 😉🧐😂😊
Like said, I was lucky, because I already understood quite a lot and I knew how to find best ways to learn more and more…
But I am honest…I never came as fare as you in ways, like you handle this given "problem"… WoW…!
Really good and again many thanks for sharing your knowledge in such practical manner with us… 🙏🙏🙏
Keep on having a great RC FUN time…!!! 🍀
Many thanks for encouraging
PS
I also had sanyo cells in the past, i still have them around 1700mAh. Now lipo and brushless are so much better, but still was a big emotion to see some power in that way in the past
Probably I'll never do this tutorial (since I'm lazy). But I like the comprehensive explanation and technical explanation. Subscribed.
Many thanks, appreciated
For the inductor, which one should I used: CD127 10 uH SMD 5A, CD53 10 uH SMD 0.5A, or CD43 10 uH SMD 1.5A?
Because those are the only availables on my local shop.
Built one myself. Found the caps and inductor in an old atx power supply.
It works but i lose some slow control. Now the motor goes faster
I didn t notice this
Maybe the minimum is becoming little higher . Now i dis the brushless conversion iproposed in my channel, which is the beeeeest mod you can do, but i can not test back the noise mod
Ottimo esempio e ben illustrato!
Fabio, ho apprezzato i tuoi video, mi domandavo se scrivi dall'italia, e se magari potevo contattarti di persona 👍 o un link al tuo profilo Facebook (ti ringrazio in anticipo)
@@albertorossetti5375 ciao Alberto, abito a padova, scrivimi pure a fragiacomof@yahoo.com
That's great. I want to follow along, but do I only need to prepare 2 capacitors?
@@jung-hwanpark1157 please read the video description
@@MakerFabio Oh, description.
I've been looking at the screen over and over again. thanks~ :)
Fantastic video!!
Thanks, I try to get famous, long way to go :)
I just tried this with two different inductor and the result is the same. The ESC cannot normally worked and can't have proportional control (only maximum speed)
I've tried the two electrolitic capacitors 330uF connected in series with a 110uH inductor, the inductor started heading quite hard and the motor response was slow. Then changed the inductor for a bigger one of 220 uH this worked well. The inductor is not as hot anymore but I will try getting one 2000 or 3000uF and hopefully it will improve even more. The noise reduced significantly and still good control of the motor at low RPM
Good to know
If the inductors was heating means that the copper wire was too thin
2000uF willl show less noise for sure
You can lower thi indictor to 10uH , this will heat less (for the same external size)
@@MakerFabio thank you I will order some an try
Update. I've got new components and it works great now. For inductor I've used a CD54 SMD 10uH power inductor, and a 2200uF 25V Low ESR Panasonic Capacitor. The noise is like none existing and the inductor does not heat up anymore.
@@TheKawasaki500s very happy that worked also on your. Thanks for reporting
I found that low speed control is very degraded. Any solution with change in inductor?
the buzzing remains, how to completely get rid of the buzzing?
Ho, A litte will remain, but I think is much reduced. If you want to go to almost silence, i think you have to Increase capacitor values to 3300uF for instance
@@MakerFabio and what kind of detail do you have at 4:24 minutes round, to which you soldered a minus ?
I found it, and what is this small inductor 10uH used for ?
@@sergeysharapov5945 it is used to slow the inductor current during pwm. See minute 1:45 and onward. Too long to explain by text
@@MakerFabio do you know any good controller replacements so that there are no such sounds ?
Does the noise affect to performance?
No, it was only annoying to me, when playing at home
Ver good video, thanks, i Will do it. Can you send me a component list? Or links for buy it. Im sorry but my english is bad.
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Choose the 10uH version
€ 1,03 | 10PCS 2200UF 16V 16V 2200UF Electrolytic Capacitor 16 V / 2200 UF Size 10*20MM Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors Free Shipping
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