The Best Way to Keep Your Polishing Pads Clean
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- Опубліковано 7 лип 2024
- Cleaning polishing pads is probably every detailer's least favorite chore. In this episode of RUPES Replies, we cover the best way to clean your polishing pads during use and after the job.
#rupes #polishing #detailing
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![Should You Use Wool, Microfiber, or Foam? - Pros and Cons of Each - [RUPES Replies Episode 006]](/img/tr.png)
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I'm just getting into polishing my 17 year old tundra and trying to learn as much as possible. This video was very helpful!
Super helpful!
Thanks Guys!
Great quick and to the point
Great stuff - just what I needed to know - many thanks 🙏
Very helpful ❤
Just picked up your new HLR 15 today and love it!
Just use a hard bristle brush that you get from the supermarket for 1.00 euro. Cleans much better than the rupes 25 euro claw
This video was just what I needed, thanks!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I love Your yellow foam pads. They work very well. I use a pad per panel. Once I'm done with one panel, it goes in the sink, is rinsed and I use a little Dawn dish soap with a scrub brush. Rinse thoroughly, then air dry. I have about 11, so I don't run out for one car. I probably need more if I'm to do more cars, or find a quicker drying method. I suppose I could pop them on My old Makita rotary and spin dry them.
Be well, Thanks for a terrific video.
Jay
Top notch video, as always Rupes. Thank you!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.
Very helpful!
Thanks for watching!
Got the Mille a month ago and im loving it.
Great!
so glad i ran into your video - thank u - 40 year bodyman painter and still watched the whole thing and will dive deeper into your content and subscribed
Glad you enjoyed it
You have really step it up the game with good information videos and the new padline.
When watching you latest videos they are easy to understand and full of good information. A big 👍.
Thank you!
Very helpful thank you.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great details. Thank you much!
Glad it was helpful!
Good stuff!!
Thanks for watching!
Good info, thank you!! Turned my green pad completely black after only doing the front of an old 1988 Targa
Thanks for watching!
Wow amazing information 👍
Thanks for liking
Great video Dylan!
Appreciate the compliment and thanks for watching Markus!
Thanks a lot! I was very confuse if I can use my home washer. Thanks a lot Dylan!
Thanks for watching and we’re happy the content was helpful for you.
Great video, Dylan!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video! I had no idea it was safe to dry pads on delicate in the dryer. I was just air-drying or spin-drying on my polisher!
Thanks. I previously had air compressor and garage. And it worked well. But now have to be mobile.
The fact that it's ok to use washing machine is a good note, cause I've already started thinking about not polishing at all. But now can move on
I typically use the washing machine method also. I throw them in with my towels for the week, with a cap of dye and scent free detergent and a few ounces of white vinegar, works great!
That’s great. Thanks for watching and sharing your feedback.
Thanks Dylan
Thanks for watching!
Great video. I'm understanding why cars are looking better and better. Back in the 1970s guys used to boast, "I put on 5 layers of wax."
That was a great video 😄
Thank you!
AHHH THANK YOU SOO MUCH FOR ASKING AND THUS INFORMING YOUR USERS!!!
Ive been wondering what's the lifespan of my pads I tend to purchase new pads after about 2 cars now I can save more money!! Again thanks for the tips page.
No problem! Happy to help!
Question re: Pad Drying and Storage
I would love to know some best practices to:
-keep pads and wool stored long-term?
- drying with a hair dryer/heat gun vs. air drying vs. tumble dry?
-whether or not premium pads can be “repaired” within reason? E.g glue, sewing…
And lastly -
Where is the best place to buy pads in bulk?
Thank you
These videos are invaluable! Dylan FTW!
Thanks for the compliment. Glad you’re enjoying the content.
Hi
Best way is to use 1--2 fresh pads per stage I always have a water bucket . After the job rinse and leave to dry in shade . Simple really
A pad washer sure is nice to have 😊
Great tips. Thanks. You just earn an extra thumb up and subscriber
Thank you!
Thank you for your information. The US tubleling washing maschine looks differnt to my.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for letting me know i did not mes up my microfiber pads today in the washing machine 😄. Great video
You are so welcome! And thanks for watching.
@@RUPES it was a big day for me today. For the very first time i did a 2 step polish ( compound and polish ). Wel, i washed the car then i claybar'd it en then the 2 step polish. Result was amazing. Me neighbors said: it's showroom ready! All this just watching you guys polish and passing thru the best tips&tricks. Planning to start up a business of my own..
Extremely helpful.
I do have a question on pads; the wool does a great job, despite trying the keep the pad flat as possible the foam deteriorates, especially the blue. I do use 2 or 3 pads of each size during correction of a vehicle, but still can easily destroy the foam. It doesn’t seem to like contours, even small ones. Thanks
Thanks for commenting. We just replied to a similar question you posted on another video. Try to reduce speed and pressure, but some accelerated pad deterioration is not uncommon with smaller pads as edgework tools tend to be used in areas that are more abusive to the pad.
I know Jason doesn’t like snappy clean/McKees Pad cleaner but it works very well to clean pads. Just make sure you thoroughly rinse them before drying
Certainly your own choice to use chemicals to clean pads, but we have extensively tested and found no measurable benefit vs. the cleaning methods outlined here. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I love Rupes and always will! The washing machine by all means.
However during the job I keep either a bucket of rinseless and ring out the pad then spin it. Or I have the lake country system 4000 pad washer.
Prevents dry polishing and cuts better
This is just method
Another great video guys.
Here’s my question, I know RUPES has a system with pads and compounds but are they interchangeable ??? e.g Yellow pad with blue compound 🤷♂️
Thanks for watching Grant. The short answer is YES! The system based approach is really to give you a default or starting point for validated performance on most surfaces, but it is certainly realistic to begin to mix and match pads and compounds of different grades to fine-tune defect removal or finish quality as you get more accustomed to how they work.
This video series is great for beginner like myself. Thank you so much!
My question is: what is the most common mistakes that you should avoid when polishing?
Ps. You got yourself a new subscriber!
We appreciate the compliment and thanks for subscribing! Great question and topic for an upcoming video! 👍🏻
Starting out with too aggressive a compund and/or too aggressive a pad is probably the cardinal sin. Other than that, working in low lighting or not changing pads out often enough
Very helpful thanks 👍
Best buffer to buy
I got a free POS washer looking around on Craig’s list or local ads. At the most you can find them for $25-$50. Doesn’t have to be pretty. It saves my good washer for my laundry.
I've been soap washing my foam pads for ages. no issues, rinse of course.
Then I put them on the machine and spin them up to full speed to help them dry quicker.
We don’t necessarily recommend freespinning to dry the pads. A wet pad is many times heavier than a dry pad and that action combined with the weight can wear out the backing due to the stress.
@@RUPES throws water very quickly 😅.
And yes damaged a few cheap pads this way. Meguires foam has been solid. Getting Rupes pads locally in Australia is difficult.
What kind of soap do you use to hand wash them? also, I heard you can use rinseless wash diluted 256 with water would that work ?
Thank you and looking forward to my new RUPES.
Thanks for choosing RUPES!
What speed on the polisher when we use the BigFoot Claw Tool?
I have tried a lot of different car polishes and I must say Rupes is the best yet. My vehicles have an outstanding shine when finished. I am not a professional and do this for enjoyment when I have the time. I also thank you guys for all the great videos. The one problem I have is that when I first start with a fresh pad even though I try to prime it I can't get much rotation no matter what. I do try to carefully hold the polisher correctly but its hard to get it rotating. I noticed that during my last detail on a Yukon XL as I got more into to the job it started rotating a lot easier. It seemed as the pad got more saturated it rotated a lot easier along with bumping up the speed to 4. I felt I should have used more than one pad for the job but I liked the fact it was rotating so well I kept it on although it did start to sling a bit. Is the difficulty on get the proper rotation going technique and or not enough pad saturation.
BTW I am referring to the dual action polisher.
Great, saves me a lot of time putting them just in the washingmachine
Glad to hear it is helpful and thanks for watching!
Thank you 👍🏼
Just one question regarding cleaning the pads in the washing machine.
With the amount of pads you are washing on a daily basics,
Do you find that some of them will not be good after or it’s 100% safe for all pads !
Also do you recommending washing them together with all the car towels or not ?
Really excited about the new polishing pads coming soon 🙏🏻
All pad types are safe to machine wash. At the BigFoot Academy the only ones that don’t come out completely clean are ones that are heavily loaded with compound and allowed to dry. Those we will typically soak and wash by hand.
You can mix a couple of towels in with them, but for the most part it’s a good idea to separate to avoid cross contamination.
Gracie Tutti 👍🏼
In the paint correction process, When do I know that I need to change the pad for a clean pad?
Thanks Rupes !!!
It will vary from car to car. More frequently on softer paints and less frequently on harder paints, in general. If the pad becomes too loaded to effectively clean with compressed air, brush, or vacuum or if the foam becomes hot. You can generally also notice a drop off in performance and results and that is a visual indicator that you should switch to a fresh pad before continuing.
man, I wish these machines were more affordable in my country
Hi Dylan
Great video , I quick question my go to pads are blue microfibre for cutting & the yellow foam for 1 step or finishing. I want to try the yellow wool just want to know if you still prime.the same way as foam or do you need to load all the wool first then a few.drops
Great question - all fiber pads (wool or microfiber) need to be “force primed” which is to spread the compound on the face of the pad before the first application.
@@RUPES Thanks I do this with the microfiber just wanted to be sure before I started trying the wool
Thanks for a practical, helpful vid on this subject, rather than a product promo for 'buy our extra-special-magic-citrus-polishing pad cleaner bs'.
Glad it was helpful! We believe in providing education and information through these videos, not selling a product. The entire RUPES Replies series is designed to answer commonly asked questions.
What nozzle are you using for blowing out pads, and what cfm/psi should I look for on a compressor?
Hi Charles, thanks for the question. The team at RUPES uses a wide variety of different nozzles and air guns to blow out pads. Generally a small diameter tip will increase air speed so you get a more powerful stream of air.. However, too small a nozzle will make a high-pitched squeal and can damage pads.
If the nozzle doesn't hurt your skin, it is likely safe for the pad. A large group of our team prefers Tornador-style guns because they seem to the job faster.
If you are just cleaning pads and are mobile, a smaller pancake compressor should be fine. If you have a shop or plan to to run air-tools look for something that can produce 12 CFM at 90 psi, constantly.
I am a beginner just using the Rupes da to polish my own vehicles and boat. I used the UNO Protect on my cars and it looked awesome. My question is how to tell when the polishing pad needs to be changed during the job? I notice as it get full it tends to start flinging wax drops around a bit, I assume that is one sign for sure but I am thinking it should be sooner, so what am I looking for to initiate a change?
Thanks for posting your question. If you are seeing product sling you are over-loading the pad. Reduce the amount of product you are applying significantly and make sure you are following the guidance in this video and blowing the pads out frequently during the job.
What can I expect from a paid Rupes Training course? I’m talking everything from what time does the day start? is there lunch? What can I learn? Do I get a discount at the course to purchase machines? Where is a good place to stay if I came from out of state.. etc
Thanks for watching and commenting.
A number of things vary depending on the type of class you attend. Some are multi-day, some are single day, and we've even had courses that were only a few hours in the evening for local customers. I would recommend taking a look at the USA BigFoot Academy Page. It includes information and answers pretty much every question you asked.
www.rupesusa.com/bigfoot-academey
Officially we resume, post-covid training at the BFA USA in August 2020. The first session is already sold out and the second class (September) is filling up. We are starting back slowly due to the number of changes, but there will be more classes and different levels of training announced in the coming months as we adjust to the new training reality.
Hopefully we'll be able to welcome you to a training here in the future!
great video Dylan. the amount of people that contact me about this is amazing. I would say I'm the most obsessed pad cleanliness fanatic in the industry. I tell them dont soak them for very long at all as water reduces pad density over time. and for god sake dont wring the foam pads out like drying a chamois. bad for the cells. I dont like APC's for cleaning or typical soaps as they discolour the pads and dry out foams so they feel rougher than when new. my motto - half a hood or roof and change pad, I switch pads after each panel on the sides of vehicles. doing this helps to stay in the window that achieves maximum correction and or finishing performance. MF pads one complete left to right pass from front to back or top to bottom of a section and I'm on the air gun. after two passes I dont think Im gaining anything, I'm losing performance.
If you're gonna obsess over any one thing in your process, pad cleanliness probably is the thing to focus on. No single aspect of paint correction can have a bigger impact on results than pad cleanliness (or lack of).
I’d you don’t like APC or typical soaps, what do you use to clean/wash your pads? Thanks!
You talk like every Detailer have money to get 6/8 pads 😂
@@russellhagy I make my own pad cleaner but you can use any polishing pad cleaner on the market, they work well. If you want a cheaper way - anything that is citrus based but not too higher percentage. Snappy clean works great. I've found from experience that APC's make the foam feel much rougher and wash out the colour of the foam plus the high sudsing isn't good either. Sure pads are a consumable item but you should try and get a long life out of them. Rinseless wash works well at 1:50 for a mist, rub and a hit with air for a quick clean.
@@andrecrispim3209 it certainly isn't easy for detailers with the price of pads today. That's why eight years ago I went to buying factory direct from Europe. Recticel, foam partner and another manufacturer from there. I buy 300 at a time once every couple years, sell some and use the rest. 300 of the 140 or 160mm unique white foam (flash pad) or blue universal foams (sdo blue) cost me two and a half euros each. About six to eight dollars Australian by the time they get here. Think bigger. If anyone can't afford six to eight pads or at least a full set of everything they need, they shouldn't be in business. Harsh but true. PS pad life should be 15-30 cars and up to 50 - 100 for some pads. Got some twenty years old that are in excellent condition still, no rips and still springy
I like to soak them with a not to aggressive APC, give it couple of minutes and flush them out with the garden hose, you don't destroy the foam and they are 99% clean. Then spin them dry on the rotary and your good to go, even during a job.
Wow! Great Advice thank you for the video! I had a question.......what is your opinion on Lake Country's 4000 Pad Cleaner System?
Glad you found the video helpful and thank you for commenting.
We don't recommend "wet cleaning" buckets for several reasons, but to summarize - it is no more effective or efficient than the methods shown in the video for cleaning during the job and has some drawbacks including saturating the pad which increases weight and dilutes compound. There is also just the fact that introduction of water into the rotating assembly of your polishers is never ideal long term, and there is no real way to avoid it when using a bucket system.
There is also the argument that some users will use that you can "Free spin" the tool to dry the pad after it is saturated, however, this is really quite bad for the longevity of the pads. A wet pad weights 20x or more than it does dry or lightly coated with compound. That weight free spinning is hard on the velcro as well as the cell structure of the pad itself.
After the job, cleaning one pad at a time in the bucket isn't really that efficient unless you only have a couple of pads to clean. If you have a lot of pads it is much faster to batch clean as we show using a washer and dryer. Again, this also avoids introducing your tool to too much moisture.
@@RUPES thanks for the response. Wow....I didn't really think of that. I've just Ben doing some research online on how to clean pads effectively......I came across this fellow by the name of Yvon lacroix. Seems liked a Real expert in this field....he was using it and showed that after he spun the pad it was dry....so I thought that it might be a good tool to use..it is a little pricey. When I'm polishing in between panels I clean with compressed air on my MF cutting disc and will use a brush as well. And a spiritz of distilled water. Yvon says it's not good to polish with a completely Dry pad...is that right? I'm finding that many experts have different methods on doing things here in the detailing world. I just started about a year ago. I'm using the Rupes 3 inch 75lhr and a Cordless Milwaukee M18 with a 15mm throw and I'm Loving it so far. Thank you for taking the time to explain that to me. Definitely gives something to think about... 🙏🏽👍🏽
Spend enough time on the internet and you'll find 100 different answers to the same question, some right, some wrong, and some in between. Compound formulations have their own lubrication systems built in. If water were necessary to the process manufacturers of compounds would add more water (would certainly be cheaper than some of the other ingredients used).
Water can be beneficial to the process, but it really has nothing to do with the pad and should be used sparingly as it does ratchet up the cutting rate and that may not be desirable in all situations (think thin paint where you do not want to excessively reduce material). It can be dangerous to make blanket recommendations like you're describing. We stick to a more situational approach as every surface and situation is unique. In some cases, adding water can help and we actually have a video on that exact subject: ua-cam.com/video/KpKCjpWD2hs/v-deo.html
Would it make more sense and avoid potential removal of the glue that holds the pads to the velcro, to use a Grit Guard Pad Washing System, and not wash them in a washer machine where the pads will get saturated with water? Perhaps Rupes pads are better made than the pads I use which are Hex Logiq, not sure, need to try them out. Any thoughts out there about this?
A pad washing system where the movement of the tool would be putting additional stress on the pad is more detrimental to the integrity of the glue layer than tumbling in a washer would be. The issue is not water... if you use appropriate cleaners the glue layer would be unaffected.
Hello I'm going to to do boats could you do one ? I've got the pad et compound ready for it. thanks its awesome to have your company on my back
With a gelcoat surface a much more aggressive approach is typically required relative to an automotive paint. If the surface is severely oxidized the best option would be rotary with a wool pad and coarse compound. Orbital tools will struggle with the heavy cutting stages on gelcoat when required, but can be excellent for medium to fine grade work.
What about after washing that yellow wool pad with the uno protect the sealant is really stuck in there even after washing it good it still has some sealant in it
If you are following the guidance of the video (keeping the pads wet in a bucket of water) the sealant aspect of UNO Protect should not cross link and should be relatively easy to remove. The product should only be challenging to remove if you allow it to dry in the pad. The sealant cures and it has the same effect on the pad as it would on the paint - it seals it!
Hi. Can you tell more about that blowgun??
What he used is called a Tornador but you can use any blowgun
Hi, i have the yellow wool pad in my arsenal. My question is, when u should retire the wool pad? Thanks
Thanks for posting your question. We have an upcoming video that will address this exact topic, but in the meantime, a visual inspection is the best way to determine if a pad is good to use. With the wool specifically - if you see fibers coming out of the pad in clumps, or spots where the material has begun to get thin, the edges are excessively worn, or you observer an issues with performance it is time to change the pad for a new one.
Does PSI matter when blowing out pads?
Is it ok to used compressed air to clean foam pads? I can’t remember where I heard compressed air can separate like the “fibers” in the foam?
Thanks for posting your question. Damage to the pad is possible if you use a "needle tip" type of blowgun that focuses the air and then hold that nozzle too close to the pad. We prefer a diffused, or agitated air blow gun (like what is shown in the video). They are commonly sold under names like Tornador. This creates a vortex that dislodges the residues, without damage to the pad.
Another thing to consider when using compressed air is that you have all the appropriate water traps and filters on the compressor to prevent oil, moisture, and tank scale from being blown into your pads. If you are not properly maintaining your compressor it is quite easy to blow a small piece of rust or compressor moisture into the pad that will then contaminate it.
Hi, I’ve washed my RUPES pads as described a few times without issue. However, during my last cold wash the white Velcro backing sheet separated from 2 of my 70ml blue Nano pads. I had yellow and wool Nano pads as well as 150mm green and yellow pads in the same wash and they were fine. Any ideas why this happened.
Andrew MM00NY thanks for the comment. That would be unusual. May have just been a one-time occurrence or pads with weakened bond to the backing. If you experience the issue again be sure to email our customer service so we can assist.
Any information on that tool cart?
It is just a generic plastic cart we use in our training center with a few tool holders bolted to it. Not a RUPES product.
How can i clean the yelow wool pad after polishing with rupes protect uno?
Hi! The techniques presented in the video should work for cleaning all pad types.
Quick question, I have the same washer drier and our drier likes to shut off randomly. Do you have the same issue?
We haven’t experienced that issue with ours.
Hola y si no se tiene aire comprimido??
Can you gently power wash them ? For example on top of grit guard in empty bucket ?
Thanks for watching. We don’t generally recommend power washing pads because it can damage the cell structure of the foam. Even on the most mild settings a pressure washer is going to tend to be too powerful for pad cleaning.
What RPM should I be cutting at, and what RPM should I be cleaning/polishing it up with?
Thanks for commenting. That would really depend on the specific tool being used and is a variable adjusted based on the specific surface you're working on, but this video clarifies our standard recommendations for settings based on speed dial positions: ua-cam.com/video/K3s3SVid0o4/v-deo.html
Even the Blonde liked that 😁 Thanks DvK 😎
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Maybe a stupid question, but I'm a total beginner in all this.. after blowing out the microfiber pad with a compressor, do I have to "prime" it again? Or do I just add 3 pea sized drops and polish on? Thanks
No, you don’t have to prime again. Source: another Rupes comment reply on this video.
@@Solrac77777 Thank you
Is there any specific point in time? Or the pad loses its effectiveness overall and should be disregarded. Example when do you toss them into the trash?
It depends. But yes, check the integrity of the pad. If it's lost its effectiveness as you're polishing, looks heavily used and abused, if it's extremely worn down and/or falling apart in any sort of way, might be time to retire that pad for good.
Do you dry them on a low heat in the washing machine and wash them on a low heat ?
Thanks for the question Krystal Clear. Hop into the video at the 3:55 mark and we go over this. Wash and dry on low heat to maximize pad life.
Is it the same proses for foam pads ?
Yes. The recommendations in this video would apply to all our pads.
Hi,
I seem to keep getting a haze when I buff fresh black paint. I usually wait atleast 24 hours before I attempt to buff. I'm currently using the 3m perfect it 3 step process. It'll look good for a while until I wash it or sit it out in the sun. I normally use foam throughout the whole process. I have a small 3 inch 3m buffer with the 3 foam pads. I recently bought a wool pad for it for cutting. I have a da buffer with a wool and 3 foam pads. I only have 3 foam pads for the high speed buffer. Someone said I may need to start with the wool and move to the foam for step 2 and 3
Thanks for watching and commenting Marcus. Haze is most commonly a symptom of being overly aggressive with soft paint. If you're using the perfect it system you're likely using rotary. To truly address the root cause of your issue you don't need to change the order of application, you need to change the approach. A random orbital tool like our BigFoot system paired with the appropriate pads and liquids will give you a much higher (and easier) chance for success on softer paint systems.
@@RUPES Thanks. I've also tried the 2nd and 3rd step with my dual action bugfer and still get the same results. I haven't tried the first step with the d.a. buffer yet
Marcus - it is important to understand that pads and compounds designed for rotary (perfect it) are not going to perform well on a random orbital or the other way around. This is why we offer our D-A system, specifically to support dual action tools.
@@RUPES thanks. I'm checking with my 3m rep to see if they have the pads for a d.a. buffer
Could always try RUPES systems considering you’re asking questions on our channel 🤷🏻♂️
Many detailing supply manufacturers simply throw the pads away after one use. The reason is that during product demonstration, training and marketing sessions, a brand new pad not only look better, but also feel nicer. I am shocked that Rupes is actually reusing old pads for training and demonstration! Lake Country told me that their foam pads cost literally pennies to make (before packaging and other business overhead expenses).
That is an excellent point, however we believe in not increasing the amount of synthetic material waste in the environment. It also represents a far more real world situation as no for-profit detailer is going to be using a new pad in every job. Testing and training with pads that have been used/washed allows us to more accurately assess performance in the real world, not a laboratory where every condition is always perfect. Students in our classes are given access to new pads when we start, but then use a combination of new and used (washed) pads as the training continues.
It is/was never about cost cutting.
We also donate a lot of our lightly used pads to local vocational schools. The programs we work with do collision repair and paint training as well as some detail training. They go through a lot of pads and we provide these very gently used and cleaned pads for their schools at zero cost.
Regardless of your feelings on the subject, thanks for your comment.
@@RUPES wow respect rupes!
@@RUPES sustainability is a great message! Dont change that
@@RUPES well explained.
Caring for the environment is not an answer that I was expecting. I feel better about spending my money on Rupes products now lol.
I wash the pads by hand during the job then I squeeze the pad by hand then dry them by putting the machine at speed 6 in a bucket for a min or so , is that ok?
Free spinning the pads like that can cause damage to the loop material of the pads. A wet pad is many times heavier than a dry pad so the forces exerted on the Velcro to keep the pad on the tool are many times more extreme. It also exposes the tool to more moisture than we would recommend. It’s not that you can’t do this, just that it may have some undesired side effects.
Do you have to prime again after every blow out?
No. Blowing out the pad only removes excess/dry/surface residues. A couple of drops to reload is all that’s needed.
Optimum power clean and pad washer system 3000d by lake country.What do you think?
Thanks for commenting. We’re not big fans of the pad washers as they’re not that efficient and they expose your tool to a lot of moisture which can have negative effects. An cleaner like powerclean is fine, but make sure it is diluted to avoid doing damage to the pad structure or adhesives.
Negative effects?
Exposing an electric tool with metal components to a situation where water squirts up into the pad/saturated the pad is never ideal.
can you elaborate how to clean pads after using Rupes Uno Protect. I always find myself just throwing the pad out after im done. (waste of money)
Don't allow the pad to dry. That is key. Using the bucket method outlined in this video and cleaning it. If the polymer is allowed to cure, just like it would on paint, it becomes resistant to removal. Keeping it wet stops the product from curing.
How to tell when my foam,wool and microfiber pads are not worth keeping anymore. When are they all used up?
The most obvious indication is the visual one. Foam that has frayed edges or chunks missing is ready to be retired, or at a minimum delegated to "less important" tasks like polishing aluminum or wheels. Similar situation for fiber pads, wool or microfiber. If they suddenly begin shedding clumps of their fibers, you have bald or thin spots, then they're ready to retire. Pads that are also excessively deformed (no longer flat) or out of shape should be taken out of your rotation, or if you just notice that there is a drop off in performance.
Hi Rupes. Why do you have no brushless motor machines?
We actually do - the iBrid Nano and Skorpio E are both powered by brushless motors.
I want LHR15 with brushless motor.... :)
@@RUPES When will u release LHR15 with brushless motor ?!
We don’t comment on product development. Too many competitors watching and waiting to copy.
@@RUPES I want to know if I should buy a Mark III or if I should wait. Flex & DeWalt have released machines that have a brushless motor! :) So you are the ones who can copy them ;)
What do you look for when buying pads ?
Do you reccomend using a pad washer, like the Lake Country 3000 D pad washer? Or is that not good for Rupes pads?
We do not recommend pad washers. They tend to expose tools to more moisture than we think is suitable. They're not as efficient as blowing out when in use, and they require you to freespin the tools to eject water which is hard on the pads/messy.
I can't afford the polisher right now but I can buy pads and polish sooooo wish me luck lol
Thanks and good luck!
Will using steam damage the foam cell structure or soften the adhesive between the pad and backing? Asking for a friend 😬
It can. Foam is extremely sensitive to heat, so the cell structure can be be damaged from the heat of steam. This is why we recommend low heat in the cleaning process.
@@RUPES thank you!
متشکرم
Another great way to dry your soaked clean pads are to attach onto polishing machine, turn on and let spin on speed 5 and air compress pads as their spinning
We actually don’t recommend this as the weight of the wet pad and free-spinning puts a lot of stress on the hook and loop engagement and can lead to pad damage.
Velcro of pad fail when I wash my rupes yellow pad, no longer to stick on back up pad this I face when I wash.
I've worn out my Velcro on all my Rupes pads prematurely by using too much pressure, and/or a worn backing plate.
you must be doing something wrong my friend i have a lot of rupes pads all kind i wash them a lot and they still stick perfect
Sorry to hear that. As the others have commented this would typically be the result of heavy pressure or other technique issues over time. The hook and loop materials are fairly durable provided they are not subjected to extreme heat or other abuse.
You need to squeeze the air out of the foam. they swim on the surface a long long time.
The more simple solution is to use your bucket insert (grit guard or whatever your preferred brand) Place it upside down on top of the pads. It will keep them submerged.
What is your guy’s opinion on pad washers?
Thanks for your question. We don't endorse the use of wet cleaning pads on the tool. The introduction of a lot of moisture isn't ideal for all the metal components behind the plate. Also, the need to "free-spin" the pad to dry them after the use of this type of cleaning is bad for the pads and backing plate because a wet pad weighs as much as 5-10x the dry weight.
Peter Griffin: "heh, heh heh... Dirty pads"
HAHAH!
😳Ive been throwing them out, at $15 bucks a pop!!
I was wondering when we would get to "toss them in the washing machine."