Mercedes Benz S123 300TD | Rear Side Window Frame RUST!
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- I learned a very important lesson about dailying a classic car is to try to avoid small issues to pile up! Suddenly the entire car consist of hundreds of small issues, and et becomes frustrating and the joy is replaced with frustration..
#mercedesbenz #w123 #turbodiesel
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I love your Seaside Standard! You make us amateurs feel so much better - besides that every perfectionists is kind of boring if you ask me. Keep it up with your nice cars and nice approach! Thank you for sharing!
Totally agree!
You are truly the Bob Ross of car repair!
Nice job on the repair, For those little awkward patches I tack a thin 'L' shaped piece of steel to the piece before offering it up & hold it in place with the earth clip on the L shaped piece & tack it in, It's easy to remove the little tack weld afterwards.
Good tip!
Removing this window is so easy... Thats good engineering with maintenance and repairs in mind 👍
Fishing for the patch really added to the seaside element of Seaside Garage 🎣
Nice job. My mantra on stuff is don’t make the task harder than it needs to be. Very practical solution for a driver level classic. Thanks for showing your work.
lol i was waiting for the piece to fall in...did not disappoint 😅🇬🇧
You made that look too easy (apart from fishing the patch out😂)! Great result on the repair👍👍
Who guessed that repair patch was going to disappear down inside the inner wheel arch?
Not just me then?
A pretty good repair though, especially being a daily driver.
Not just you!
Great job Seppo! Would love to come close to seaside standard with my repairs one day😅
Hey🙂.
I just want to share some experience on rust converter.
It will only convert the surface rust and it has no penetration properties. There will still be rust under the visible surface. German fertan, one of the org. Rust converter manufacturers also states that it should be used on bare metal surfaces that has micro pitting but not surface rust. Furthermore it should be completely washed away before painting as it absorbs moisture and if sealed in under paint it will just make it worse.
There is a nice report from the danish museums where they tested rustconverter and concluded that it cannot convert in depth and will not protect from further rust and should not be used to preserve or repair artifacts.
My experience is that it can be used after grinding to bare metal to check if I removed all the micropitting or but not as to stop visible rust.
Nicely repaired, but I would still like to remind you that it is good to be careful with the right primer. Namely, if you use a 1K primer, it might not withstand the putty because it contains solvent substances. Under the putty should use 2K paints (epoxy is best), or fiberglass putty on a clean surface. Sorry to remind this, by I have learned this by my mistakes earlier.
I have a very good experience with exactly this setup... but yes epoxy is better... but more expensive..
Could I make a suggestion, when you do an engine oil change keep the waste oil and add about a litre of diesel to it and use it to paint the inner panels which will act as a "live" rustproofer, you could even add some Kurust or Vactan to the mix to give it some rust changing properties. I picked up that little tip from a chap who had a 40 year old Triumph 1300 FWD kinda proto Toledo, he did that from day one of owning it from new and it never had to be welded as every other year he would get in with a pump sprayer and get at the chassis rails, the inner wings and panels with his "jollop" and his car was like factory fresh despite never been welded or resprayed, just protected from day one.
Used engine oil isn’t ideal, because it can contain acids from the combustion gases, though it’s probably better than doing nothing. There are much more suitable materials available
i would of give up on that dropped metal after 2 seconds
Love your videos, keep at it 👍
sometimes when the patch falls in these places and the magnetic tool can't produce satisfactory results we can always use a vacuum cleaner with the corner attachment (the one with the narrower tip) which is guaranteed to work, the annoying thing is rummaging around in the vacuum cleaner's tank looking for what we're looking for.
Can't wait to see your rust repair when you polish the paint but it looks pretty good and when anybody drives a classic vehicle you have to stay on top of things
Great watching your professional workmanship 👍congratulations from Aotearoa New Zealand 🇳🇿
Great job Seppo although I had a big nooo moment when you dropped the patch, twice, lol
haha Noone really know how many times it ACTUALLY happened... I got the editing powers! :P
The short (for us) interlude of The Lost and Hard to Reach Patch Panel was as entertaining as you hoped :-)
My wife’s car is a 2008 Acura TSX. I know thats not old, but any little thing i fix. That way shes never asking for a new one. We are going to drive this car til the wheels fall off, and the i’ll fix those too
Nice work! They have some scary dental tools in Denmark! 😁
A grinder and some paint, makes me the welder I ain't 😂
Nice job mate 👍
The worst one I've suffered a few times now is the 7mm adaptor bit falling of the tool and you cant see where it went/goes. So you lose a lot of time confirming it's no where dangerous.
Nice job. looks good enough
I was just thinking ‘ be careful not to drop that patch into the hol ‘ and in it went😆 nice job though👍🏼 I’m guessing those bubbles of rust below it in the wheelarch are from water entering here?
yes... those bubbles are most likely related to this hole :)
A job well done.
Who'd have thought that a patch job would turn into a fishing expedition eh? :P
That's a good repair. +++
I have to do exactly this same repair. What thickness and grade of steel do you use to repair the hole with?
Nice job thanks
paint match is good
Lead repair like Porsche used to do. That'd last indefinitely and easy to shape it
Not friends with that stuff ...
Peak Mercedes Benz, back when their cars were really hand made to a high engineering standard.
Agree
What's the "red primer" called? In Germany I've sometimes heard it referred as "Elefantenhaut" (elephant skin) and I used it on my first car in 1998, but never found it again and would like to see if I can find it here in Canada now.
Are these aluminium rivets? This will give galvanic corrosion
19:00 My good friend... Would it have been better to put some seam sealer on the part on the back to make it water tight?
24:26 As you can tell you read my mind! Also, I always comment before watching the complete video. Have a coffee on me! It passed inspection.
Great video! Exactly which rust converter do you use?
Think its called Ferro bet... but JUST got it.. so no long time experince with it yet
Lol it was a RUST 4:24 -ique Pizza you had😂
HAHAH ! how did I miss that! even my lunch that day was rusty!
Keep out of my sack!😂
What rust converter are you using. I've tried many, and not found anything that realy works. I don't mind having to fight the rust every few years, but less than 6 months is realy annoying,
In my experience, they coat the top layer of rust but leave rust underneath which will just come out later.
@@worldofrandometry6912 They definitely work better if you scrape off all the rust you possibly can, leaving the thinnest amount of rust possible before treating.
Ferro bet I think its called... but just got it! so no long time expericen yet
but it need rust to start the reaction... :)
Brug tin i stedet for plast filler . tin virker 1000 gange bedre og holder bilen ud
Er ikke helt venner med det endnu... og det er også ret sundhedsskadeligt... men måske ikke så meget værre en filler i sidste ende...
@@SeasideGarage Brug lidt tid i øveren . du vil i den grad blive glad for det .. Og når du endelig ligger kræfter i rustarbejde så er der det mindste at bruge tin . det vil holde i mange mange år frem ingen rust vil kigge frem de næste mange år . også rigtig godt at tætne gamle brændstoftanke med holder og holder
Brug magnet .
Gammel bilhøjttaler magnet .