The tack weld it really the most important part. The factory one wasn't welded, so I didn't weld mine. Ended up coming off doing cam-crank-correlation and spun 3 bearings in my freshly re-done top end 4.3 Vortec. :'(
@@duncandonovan5270 Yeah, I was upset, but it was too close to snow time and that's my plow truck. I had to order a rebuild engine and do the swap that week. I took two of the spun bearings out and two good ones and made a plaque that they hang on with the words "don't f*ck it up" :)
Eric - you nailed it again. I'm glad you made a point of showing checking the pickup to the pan - a lot of people eyeball them, get them too close, and can't understand where their oil pressure goes at high rpm. Good point to tack them in place too, I've seen them vibrate loose - and suck themselves to the bottom of the pan. All these tips you show are what set yours apart from other 'how to do it' videos' Well done!
While over all I like the content which is why I subscribed this has been my biggest point of contention with this channel. Don't do this then does it. Even with the explanation that usually comes with it as to why he does that it just doesn't quite sit right when you're trying to learn the right way and trying to learn why you need to respect the proper methods. An extreme metephore would be why have a torque spec when you don't own a torque wrench?
And one the "factory" never ever used and still doesn't because its completely pointless AND potentially damaging/destructive if done "incorrectly" which is basically guaranteed "tack welding" MILD STEEL TO CAST IRON.
My pickup tube had 2 thou interference with the pump, and the only way to fit that in was with a bearing splitter. I drilled the treads out of a nut M16 to fit the tube, cut the nut in half and grooved the sides with a grinder, then put the 2 halves around the tube and tighten the bearing splitter, add the extensions and the bar across the top, put it in the vise and hammer it in. It was sooo easy, and when I finished it, shouted "Flawless Victory" just like the Mortal kombat arcade games back in the day. It's great when you put a plan into action and it actually works.
If you tack weld it should be done with a high Nickel rod. Cast iron welded to steel with a steel rod is very brittle. Mentioned in other threads for installing pickup to SBC. Brazing would also produce a good joint.
Use an open end wrench that fits the tube against the flange, never hit the tube ,...ALWAYS Tap on the flange. . Then tack a spot. First, tape a 3/8 drill bit to the bottom of the pick up, place on the pan sans gasket. This will give you the proper gap , after the gasket, do this before you fully seat the tube. Its not complicated.
I put a nice tack weld like you did . Next day I pulled the pickup off by hand. The weld cracks off the cast as it cools. Yours did too I guarantee it. Waste of mig wire. There is a proper Tig process and a type of brazing but mig useless on cast. Pioneer makes a retainer that bolts on part # 839061 . I'm using that.
Good Job! My 2007 Hyundai Elantra G4GC 2 litre Engine Oil Pump pickup pipe , has a gasket and has 2 bolts fixing it to the engine block. Hehe, I polished my Alloy Cast oil sump too! 💖👍
Everyone in my engine builders page is saying to take apart any oil pump I get . Melling or sealed power. And check for burrs. The shaft notch on mine was razor sharp.
Great video. Just what I was looking for. I have a 98 Pathfinder 3.3L with a similar oil pump. It was an elderly couple's for 20 years. I don't think they used it much. Low miles, 6,000 a year average, and likely wasn't driven hard ever. I think they let oil sit in it and maybe their mechanic put snake oil in it as a sales pitch. There was gummy honey-colored stuff on the refill cap. Something is causing this Pathfinder to knock at startup for 3-4 seconds and then between 1,800 and 3,300 RPM. If coasting between 1800 and 3300, it ceases. I think I caught rod bearing wear early and I replaced them. And checked the mains. Mains were good. Two rods had mild wear. No slack or slope in anything. Metal flakes stopped appearing. But still the knock between those RPM. It runs perfectly, otherwise. And the body and interior is like new. So it's a nice one I'd like to keep long-term. What do you think about this idea? If the oil isn't changed well can the valve system in the pump stick or malfunction and cause oil pressure to be insufficient? The pressure is 100% consistently poor at startup for 3 seconds and under load between 1800 to 3300 RPM. Makes no sense, this loss of pressure at fixed time, other than faulty pump. I know there is also a pan gasket leak at the front and back. I thinned the oil as an experiment to see if pressure/noise changed and oil began quickly dripping from both ends of the oil pan when it was at warm idle. I thinned the oil 50% with motor flush, which is basically kerosene. I drained out two quarts and put in 2 quarts cleaner. So I have to pull the pan anyways to fix those leaks, so might as well pull inspect and replace the pump as well. Also have to check timing as well and swap all those parts as their age is unknown. The pressure problem was present before the leaks were noted. So the big leaks are new and the problem is the exact same. Do you know of a good oil pump replacement video of my motor or very similar? I found a timing kit one, but no oil pump.
They now sell oil pump and pickups that are bolt on. Also if you braze the tube on be sure to temporarily remove the bypass spring else that excessive heat can weaken the spring thus lowering the bypass pressure.
Well I know where I went wrong. I bought a crate motor when I was 19, we put the oil pick up tube in the freezer then put it in. We did not tack weld it. I blew the engine a week after installing it. My dad blamed me for driving it to hard. Chevy replaced the engine at no cost but clarified the cause. Always wondered what we did wrong.
I have a cheap borescope that I run through the drain plaug to confirm a 1/4 inch gap between the pickup and pan. Lots of people have these scopes nowadays. Ez to do.
Eric, you can use the open end side of the wrench over the pipe, and hit the wrench to drive the tube down. And you should use clay to measure the pan clearance.
@@scottblubaughsure buddy, I know being indoors & outdoors is no different than working underwater. Show me a video where you take the oil sump out using jack stands & might consider your reply is is for the everyday guy who can work on cars. You're entire response is dumb no matter how good you are as a mechanic. As I said everyone doesn't have a shop & power tools to do every single job. I can maintain my vehicle well. I've done every single repair myself. I just happen to know, realistically for a person who works 40+ hours a week & has a family. Taking the oil sump out without a lift isn't an easy job & is time consuming. But hey, what do I know right. I shouldn't be working on my own vehicle according to you
That is bad that the unit didn't go together like it should without so much force and I hope that I don't have that problem if I have to remove an engine and work on it. Thanks for sharing this information with us all.
I find this puzzling, that the factory does not use a tack weld but common practice is to tack (cast iron) for a reinstall. I wonder if the factory uses locktite in addition to the press fit of new parts with their special tool. Belt and suspenders is appealing, given the implication of it coming loose.
use half a tube flaring tool set to loosely clamp around the tube and hold it at the roll, then use a press and some blocking to support and shove it in properly
It is actually a lot harder to do with a new pick up screen. The new screen is about 6mm larger than the hole in the pump. Since an old "already compressed" used screen was used it was already compressed enough to get it started into the new pump. Next time I do this I will use the old screen.
I am having the same problem right now with my 1998 Chevy S10, with a 4.3. I am using the same Manufacture and it is a high volume. I measured the difference between the male and female (pump side) is .005". I am trying to hone out the male hole and then drill a hole in the pump to thread for 1/4" x 20, to then use a set screw to lock it in place. Should work?
Hello Eric. I enjoy watching your videos. You go straight into business explaining the process of repair or installation which is very good. I need your advice in a project I started with my 2000 landrover discovery 2. I am installing a diesel engine year 2000 isuzu npr to my landrover discovery. So far so good. Where I need guidance is with the oil pan that interferes with the front differential. I need to modify the shape of the oil pan. The pick up line I figure needs to be reconfigured to the left side of the oil pan. When I reduce the volume of the oil pan that interferes with the differential - will the smaller volume of the oil pan affect the performance of the engine?
Now Eric I respect you and your advice But I just opened my oil pump and check out the measurements and the relief valve inside the house to make sure it goes up and down well mine was stuck and I was going to port the sharp edges. And pack it old school style with good ol vaseline . Just a word to the wise check out your oil pump valve on the inside . That 💩 would have been disastrous for me it's my first baby 350 hopefully not the last.
The full video of engine assembly was posted last week. Link in the description. I pulled these out so that one, they could help people looking for this specific information without haven't to watch an hour+ video. Second, to give myself time to edit other video this week. Thanks for your comment.
@@ericthecarguy hi Mr Eric can you tell me please how does pistons move in cylinder does they move in rotational movement in cylinder well waiting for your humble reply thanks indeed
@@ericthecarguy hi sir I am mailing you to ask one question how does pistons move in cylinder does pistons move in rotational movement in cylinder well waiting for your humble reply thanks indeed
No gasket between pump & block? You sensibly drifted it together, and a nice tack weld. In theory you could freeze (inverted duster can) the tube and heat the pump hole, quickly tap together.
Hi, i have a 95 silverado k1500 4x4 5.7L. I want to upgrade the oil pump to a high pressure oil pump is there any modifications i need to do to install it?
Bought a gmc 1500 truck was told by dealer it had been serviced three weeks later i go change oil my dipstick had good clean oil.on it ,but when removing drain plug only sludge began to come out .is it possible the oil.pck up tube is still sucking up good oil and engine not damaged ,oil.pressure still good i plan to.remkve oil pan clean
it's a safety step that is all too often ignored. an especially good idea if a tube has been reused because a reused tube doesn't have the same amount of tension against the pump housing as a new one especially if it has been heated like that one was.
first with tacking with a stick welder and then with wire welders in over forty years i have yet to have a tack let go in this usage scenario. so far....so good. ;-)
never had any broblem with that. if you install it correct you will not have any probems. To me it seems it should go down a little more, using a hammer in that way is a no no. you don`t get the correct force at the right place. in worst case, it will get loose over time, if not, you are to lucky. Many people use a hammer and get away with it. others don`t. use a correct size spanner or make a tool for it. When people are using hammers on that part I just shake my head. it does not matter if you have worked on cars in 30 years or not, that is not the correct way to do it. But yeah, it works if you are a lucky one. A new build engine and a old picup? order a new one :)
My truck has a plate in between the the pickup tube and the the journals, it gets held in place with the same bolt used to hold the pump in place as well as 3 other nuts. Is it not necessary to put that plate on? Because if not I will remove it next time because its a hassle to hold the pump in place and hold the plate in place while at the same time putting a nut on and a bolt on while under the vehicle because of gravity.
:50 Good thing you got a new one from a reputable company. I have heard that when people reuse their old one or buy a cheap one, it can break off and cause a catastrophic engine failure. 5:15 is is common with OHV engines that used ignition distributors. It is also common with OHV engines that were initially built with distributors, but were given a distributorless ignition later in production. For example, the Ford Vulcan was introduced with a distributor, but got a distributorless ignition. The device that replaced the distributor (Cam sync plug) turned the oil pump shaft the same way a distributor would. Engines like the GM LS-series and MOPAR 5.7 Hemi were built for distributorless ignition, so the oil pump was directly operated by the crankshaft.
The oil pickup tube on my 1976 Ford 351 windsor and the 5.0 in my former 93 F150 is bolted on, I prefer the bolted on than this interference fit stuff.
Hello sir, i have suzuki jimny wide auto 1998 model. The car loses power uphill, i changed its gear box, but the problem is still there. Its rpm doesn't increase beyond 2 in Drive and 2nd gear, but in L it gains acceleration, plzzz suggent me useful tip as i lost huge money correcting it
What "several engines" does that "Chevy" oil pump pickup installation process supposedly apply to and where exactly in "Chevy" manuals, tech info or other "official" and "reliable" sources did you find that "Chevy" process?
Shouldn't need heat to remove the pickup tube! its not that big of an interference fit, you should be able to just put a block of wood in the inner elbow of the tube and tap it out relatively easily
Is there any difference between a friction fit and an interference fit? If not, then why is it suddenly called this and not that any more? Especially since the long word interference is quite a mouthful, compared to the short and sleek word friction.
If I'm not mistaken, an interference fit means that the pieces have to be pressed together somehow, because the hole is slightly smaller than the piece going into it. Essentially, the hole is squeezing the piece with enough force to prevent it from moving, like with the oil pickup tube he removed. A friction fit uses the friction of the two surfaces to hold things in place, like with the Morse taper on a lathe tailstock, or drill press.
Hey Car Guy, I have a question. My check engine light on a 1990 Acura Integra never comes on immediately. It can idle for 10-20 min without coming on. As soon as I accelerate past 35 mph, it will come on. Any ideas? Thanks, ,and thanks for the videos.
Thanks for noticing. Also, it makes it so that those looking for this specific info can find it easily instead of watching an hour+ video. Thanks for the comment.
got to love all the video game certified comments: get off you couch put some cloths on and put down the bag of potato chips and fix a real car like Eric The Car Guy
Love your vids Eric, I've been building engine's for over 25 years installing oil pump pickup tube's exactly the way you did in this video. I've had 2 welds not hold , got to be sure to get penetration on the tube. 👍🏽
Unfortunately I've been tied up in edits of this build. I hope to get back to the #FairmontProject videos soon. In fact, I'm interviewing an editor tomorrow.
I have always used an open end wrench on the boss (lip) on the pickup tube and tapped that with a hammer.
Never had an issue with this method as long as you took it nice and easy
The tack weld it really the most important part. The factory one wasn't welded, so I didn't weld mine. Ended up coming off doing cam-crank-correlation and spun 3 bearings in my freshly re-done top end 4.3 Vortec. :'(
Sorry that you went through that but brave enough to help someone else.
No it didn't.
Wow that really sux 😲
I would go straight trough the roof and break everything on my way there 🥴
And be very sorry after ofcourse 😑
@@duncandonovan5270 Yeah, I was upset, but it was too close to snow time and that's my plow truck. I had to order a rebuild engine and do the swap that week. I took two of the spun bearings out and two good ones and made a plaque that they hang on with the words "don't f*ck it up" :)
The tack came off and thats what ruined your truck?
Eric - you nailed it again.
I'm glad you made a point of showing checking the pickup to the pan - a lot of people eyeball them, get them too close, and can't understand where their oil pressure goes at high rpm.
Good point to tack them in place too, I've seen them vibrate loose - and suck themselves to the bottom of the pan.
All these tips you show are what set yours apart from other 'how to do it' videos'
Well done!
"you're not supposed to hit it with a Hamer, you're supposed to use a special tool" 5 seconds later: hits it with a rubber mallet. 😂 Gotta love it.
Hows your comment here? 13 hours ago?
@@fewestbark970gaming2 HAXX
@@fewestbark970gaming2 premium members have early acces to the UA-cam videos and exclusive video's.
Also claims how to do it properly
While over all I like the content which is why I subscribed this has been my biggest point of contention with this channel. Don't do this then does it. Even with the explanation that usually comes with it as to why he does that it just doesn't quite sit right when you're trying to learn the right way and trying to learn why you need to respect the proper methods. An extreme metephore would be why have a torque spec when you don't own a torque wrench?
good morning eric. the tack weld.....good one! a step that's all too often ignored.
And one the "factory" never ever used and still doesn't because its completely pointless AND potentially damaging/destructive if done "incorrectly" which is basically guaranteed "tack welding" MILD STEEL TO CAST IRON.
@@deeremeyer1749 agree that weld did nothing. It cracked free as it cooled.
this is what i call an original Eric the car guy video!
Been up all night perfect something to watch!
My pickup tube had 2 thou interference with the pump, and the only way to fit that in was with a bearing splitter.
I drilled the treads out of a nut M16 to fit the tube, cut the nut in half and grooved the sides with a grinder, then put the 2 halves around the tube and tighten the bearing splitter, add the extensions and the bar across the top, put it in the vise and hammer it in.
It was sooo easy, and when I finished it, shouted "Flawless Victory" just like the Mortal kombat arcade games back in the day.
It's great when you put a plan into action and it actually works.
I must be insane I just Love watching you work on engines. Always love you videos Eric Good Job!
Thanks for putting this together! I know we'll need it in the future at some point.
Loving that " special tool " . Good old rubber hammer. 👍👍
Definitely a great video to watch and to know how to install an oil pump. Did the process would hopefully be the same on a 454 big block Chevy.
Great quick video Eric
If you tack weld it should be done with a high Nickel rod. Cast iron welded to steel with a steel rod is very brittle. Mentioned in other threads for installing pickup to SBC. Brazing would also produce a good joint.
Use an open end wrench that fits the tube against the flange, never hit the tube ,...ALWAYS Tap on the flange. . Then tack a spot. First, tape a 3/8 drill bit to the bottom of the pick up, place on the pan sans gasket. This will give you the proper gap , after the gasket, do this before you fully seat the tube. Its not complicated.
Thanks Eric, love your content, dude!
3:40 “imma try this” Hahahah 😂😂
I made that special tool out of some 3/4" copper pipe. Worked pretty good. I also tack welded the end in too, just so I could sleep at night. :)
The tack weld is a smart idea.
Thanks for sharing,
Cheers
I put a nice tack weld like you did . Next day I pulled the pickup off by hand. The weld cracks off the cast as it cools. Yours did too I guarantee it. Waste of mig wire. There is a proper Tig process and a type of brazing but mig useless on cast. Pioneer makes a retainer that bolts on part # 839061 . I'm using that.
Good Job! My 2007 Hyundai Elantra G4GC 2 litre Engine Oil Pump pickup pipe , has a gasket and has 2 bolts fixing it to the engine block.
Hehe, I polished my Alloy Cast oil sump too! 💖👍
Good stuff!!
I'm enjoying watching your good video.
I support you in Korea.
Everyone in my engine builders page is saying to take apart any oil pump I get . Melling or sealed power. And check for burrs. The shaft notch on mine was razor sharp.
Interesting. These are tricks that is certainly good to know. Thank you!
Great video. Just what I was looking for.
I have a 98 Pathfinder 3.3L with a similar oil pump. It was an elderly couple's for 20 years. I don't think they used it much. Low miles, 6,000 a year average, and likely wasn't driven hard ever. I think they let oil sit in it and maybe their mechanic put snake oil in it as a sales pitch. There was gummy honey-colored stuff on the refill cap.
Something is causing this Pathfinder to knock at startup for 3-4 seconds and then between 1,800 and 3,300 RPM. If coasting between 1800 and 3300, it ceases. I think I caught rod bearing wear early and I replaced them. And checked the mains. Mains were good. Two rods had mild wear. No slack or slope in anything. Metal flakes stopped appearing. But still the knock between those RPM. It runs perfectly, otherwise. And the body and interior is like new. So it's a nice one I'd like to keep long-term.
What do you think about this idea?
If the oil isn't changed well can the valve system in the pump stick or malfunction and cause oil pressure to be insufficient? The pressure is 100% consistently poor at startup for 3 seconds and under load between 1800 to 3300 RPM. Makes no sense, this loss of pressure at fixed time, other than faulty pump.
I know there is also a pan gasket leak at the front and back. I thinned the oil as an experiment to see if pressure/noise changed and oil began quickly dripping from both ends of the oil pan when it was at warm idle. I thinned the oil 50% with motor flush, which is basically kerosene. I drained out two quarts and put in 2 quarts cleaner. So I have to pull the pan anyways to fix those leaks, so might as well pull inspect and replace the pump as well. Also have to check timing as well and swap all those parts as their age is unknown. The pressure problem was present before the leaks were noted. So the big leaks are new and the problem is the exact same.
Do you know of a good oil pump replacement video of my motor or very similar? I found a timing kit one, but no oil pump.
Thanks for the tips Amigo😎✌🏼
They now sell oil pump and pickups that are bolt on. Also if you braze the tube on be sure to temporarily remove the bypass spring else that excessive heat can weaken the spring thus lowering the bypass pressure.
I would have missed the tac weld part. Great video!😀👍
Thank you Eric. That was extremely informative and useful! (All your videos are!)
Well I know where I went wrong. I bought a crate motor when I was 19, we put the oil pick up tube in the freezer then put it in. We did not tack weld it. I blew the engine a week after installing it. My dad blamed me for driving it to hard. Chevy replaced the engine at no cost but clarified the cause. Always wondered what we did wrong.
I have a cheap borescope that I run through the drain plaug to confirm a 1/4 inch gap between the pickup and pan. Lots of people have these scopes nowadays. Ez to do.
Thanks for the extra info on the oil pump and pickup installation ....
Thx 👍
Didn't really have a clue how to do it but now I do 👌
Eric, you can use the open end side of the wrench over the pipe, and hit the wrench to drive the tube down. And you should use clay to measure the pan clearance.
It's helpful if someone has the capability to take the entire pan out, indoors, with every tool needed on hand. This video would definitely be helpful
You don’t have to be indoors, and if you don’t have the TWO tools required to do this job then maybe you shouldn’t be worried about working on cars.
@@scottblubaughsure buddy, I know being indoors & outdoors is no different than working underwater. Show me a video where you take the oil sump out using jack stands & might consider your reply is is for the everyday guy who can work on cars.
You're entire response is dumb no matter how good you are as a mechanic. As I said everyone doesn't have a shop & power tools to do every single job. I can maintain my vehicle well. I've done every single repair myself.
I just happen to know, realistically for a person who works 40+ hours a week & has a family. Taking the oil sump out without a lift isn't an easy job & is time consuming. But hey, what do I know right. I shouldn't be working on my own vehicle according to you
Melling makes the best oil pumps
Eric posted a video at 5:00amEST😴😴😴
That is bad that the unit didn't go together like it should without so much force and I hope that I don't have that problem if I have to remove an engine and work on it. Thanks for sharing this information with us all.
A lot of them are a press fit, so this is pretty standard. Some are bolted on though, I believe some Fords use that style.
I find this puzzling, that the factory does not use a tack weld but common practice is to tack (cast iron) for a reinstall. I wonder if the factory uses locktite in addition to the press fit of new parts with their special tool. Belt and suspenders is appealing, given the implication of it coming loose.
Simple , clear ,clever... thank you.
use half a tube flaring tool set to loosely clamp around the tube and hold it at the roll, then use a press and some blocking to support and shove it in properly
Great video Eric
It is actually a lot harder to do with a new pick up screen. The new screen is about 6mm larger than the hole in the pump. Since an old "already compressed" used screen was used it was already compressed enough to get it started into the new pump. Next time I do this I will use the old screen.
I am having the same problem right now with my 1998 Chevy S10, with a 4.3. I am using the same Manufacture and it is a high volume. I measured the difference between the male and female (pump side) is .005". I am trying to hone out the male hole and then drill a hole in the pump to thread for 1/4" x 20, to then use a set screw to lock it in place. Should work?
Hello Eric. I enjoy watching your videos. You go straight into business explaining the process of repair or installation which is very good.
I need your advice in a project I started with my 2000 landrover discovery 2.
I am installing a diesel engine year 2000 isuzu npr to my landrover discovery. So far so good. Where I need guidance is with the oil pan that interferes with the front differential. I need to modify the shape of the oil pan. The pick up line I figure needs to be reconfigured to the left side of the oil pan. When I reduce the volume of the oil pan that interferes with the differential - will the smaller volume of the oil pan affect the performance of the engine?
Now Eric I respect you and your advice But I just opened my oil pump and check out the measurements and the relief valve inside the house to make sure it goes up and down well mine was stuck and I was going to port the sharp edges.
And pack it old school style with good ol vaseline . Just a word to the wise check out your oil pump valve on the inside .
That 💩 would have been disastrous for me it's my first baby 350 hopefully not the last.
Why the mini series? I wanna see the final assembly!
The full video of engine assembly was posted last week. Link in the description. I pulled these out so that one, they could help people looking for this specific information without haven't to watch an hour+ video. Second, to give myself time to edit other video this week. Thanks for your comment.
Oh I wasn't aware! I know what Im watching tonight 😊
@@ericthecarguy hi Mr Eric can you tell me please how does pistons move in cylinder does they move in rotational movement in cylinder well waiting for your humble reply thanks indeed
@@ericthecarguy hi sir I am mailing you to ask one question how does pistons move in cylinder does pistons move in rotational movement in cylinder well waiting for your humble reply thanks indeed
Does Melling make good timing chains, or good engine parts for that matter? Does their quality exceed Oem?
My machinist has used their oil pumps for years. As far as I know, it's one of the best brands for parts like this.
Yep, Melling is a well known and respected brand in the SBC world.
But but but but.... it's not friday. Why are you messing with my head Eric?
Very helpful! Thanks!!!
No gasket between pump & block?
You sensibly drifted it together, and a nice tack weld.
In theory you could freeze (inverted duster can) the tube and heat the pump hole,
quickly tap together.
I don't believe there is a gasket for that mating surface. I think it's a machine fit.
Hi, i have a 95 silverado k1500 4x4 5.7L. I want to upgrade the oil pump to a high pressure oil pump is there any modifications i need to do to install it?
Bought a gmc 1500 truck was told by dealer it had been serviced three weeks later i go change oil my dipstick had good clean oil.on it ,but when removing drain plug only sludge began to come out .is it possible the oil.pck up tube is still sucking up good oil and engine not damaged ,oil.pressure still good i plan to.remkve oil pan clean
Thanks for the reply
I don't have a welder, but I wonder if I can braze the tube on with a propane torch?
Do they really recommend welding it? I know if it falls out it's bad but just wondering if that's the normal thing people do.
it's a safety step that is all too often ignored. an especially good idea if a tube has been reused because a reused tube doesn't have the same amount of tension against the pump housing as a new one especially if it has been heated like that one was.
Welding steel to cast iron with a mig gun is useless.
first with tacking with a stick welder and then with wire welders in over forty years i have yet to have a tack let go in this usage scenario. so far....so good. ;-)
... Besides its not under and tension. It's just meant to hold it in place in case of ruts in the road etc.
never had any broblem with that. if you install it correct you will not have any probems. To me it seems it should go down a little more, using a hammer in that way is a no no. you don`t get the correct force at the right place. in worst case, it will get loose over time, if not, you are to lucky. Many people use a hammer and get away with it. others don`t. use a correct size spanner or make a tool for it. When people are using hammers on that part I just shake my head. it does not matter if you have worked on cars in 30 years or not, that is not the correct way to do it. But yeah, it works if you are a lucky one. A new build engine and a old picup? order a new one :)
Thanks eric
My Way of thinking should their be a gasket between oil pump and main cap to prevent oil pressure loss?
machined surface internal.. it is all set
Nice
My truck has a plate in between the the pickup tube and the the journals, it gets held in place with the same bolt used to hold the pump in place as well as 3 other nuts. Is it not necessary to put that plate on? Because if not I will remove it next time because its a hassle to hold the pump in place and hold the plate in place while at the same time putting a nut on and a bolt on while under the vehicle because of gravity.
:50 Good thing you got a new one from a reputable company. I have heard that when people reuse their old one or buy a cheap one, it can break off and cause a catastrophic engine failure.
5:15 is is common with OHV engines that used ignition distributors. It is also common with OHV engines that were initially built with distributors, but were given a distributorless ignition later in production. For example, the Ford Vulcan was introduced with a distributor, but got a distributorless ignition. The device that replaced the distributor (Cam sync plug) turned the oil pump shaft the same way a distributor would. Engines like the GM LS-series and MOPAR 5.7 Hemi were built for distributorless ignition, so the oil pump was directly operated by the crankshaft.
The oil pickup tube on my 1976 Ford 351 windsor and the 5.0 in my former 93 F150 is bolted on, I prefer the bolted on than this interference fit stuff.
I wonder if you can JBWeld it together!?
Nice watch this before also.
If the pickup tube is loose,can that cause blow by
Hello sir, i have suzuki jimny wide auto 1998 model. The car loses power uphill, i changed its gear box, but the problem is still there. Its rpm doesn't increase beyond 2 in Drive and 2nd gear, but in L it gains acceleration, plzzz suggent me useful tip as i lost huge money correcting it
What "several engines" does that "Chevy" oil pump pickup installation process supposedly apply to and where exactly in "Chevy" manuals, tech info or other "official" and "reliable" sources did you find that "Chevy" process?
They come with a spring so where does it go?
That torque wrench lol
Shouldn't need heat to remove the pickup tube! its not that big of an interference fit, you should be able to just put a block of wood in the inner elbow of the tube and tap it out relatively easily
How does it hook up with that 383 Eric? Does the rear break loose and spin the tires in the lower range?
Is there any difference between a friction fit and an interference fit? If not, then why is it suddenly called this and not that any more? Especially since the long word interference is quite a mouthful, compared to the short and sleek word friction.
If I'm not mistaken, an interference fit means that the pieces have to be pressed together somehow, because the hole is slightly smaller than the piece going into it. Essentially, the hole is squeezing the piece with enough force to prevent it from moving, like with the oil pickup tube he removed. A friction fit uses the friction of the two surfaces to hold things in place, like with the Morse taper on a lathe tailstock, or drill press.
Can you tell how long I have been subscribed?
I JB welded mine 💪😎👍
Hey Eric does a gasket go between the oil pump, and the block?
No
had a pick come loose on a new 327 once blew the crank
That beep is not as satisfying as the click
Hey Car Guy, I have a question. My check engine light on a 1990 Acura Integra never comes on immediately. It can idle for 10-20 min without coming on. As soon as I accelerate past 35 mph, it will come on. Any ideas? Thanks, ,and thanks for the videos.
That does sound very weird. Does the light blink normally when you jump the diagnostic terminals?
FFS .. plug it into a diagnostic machine .. that's my idea
you've cut and reposted the tip end long vid... cool... stretch the footage to firmly set the point... great idea. we cant all have Eidetic memory
Thanks for noticing. Also, it makes it so that those looking for this specific info can find it easily instead of watching an hour+ video. Thanks for the comment.
Need an ABS for my Honda Accord 1999 cannot get it here in Tobago in the Caribbean can you help.!
Ask on the forums.
Not here
i was expecting a boring thorough by the books method
4.38 pee himself how did I see that 😁
got to love all the video game certified comments: get off you couch put some cloths on and put down the bag of potato chips and fix a real car like Eric The Car Guy
this comment on applies to 23 people
So after the Fairmont engine and this engine, which has a superior oiling system?
Very brave eric lol what if that weld fails !!!!
I've never seen it happen yet.
@@ericthecarguy iam sure it wont , but could you imagine
Love your vids Eric, I've been building engine's for over 25 years installing oil pump pickup tube's exactly the way you did in this video. I've had 2 welds not hold , got to be sure to get penetration on the tube. 👍🏽
If you're a chevy man you should be accustomed to the smell of oil burning.
e a s y p-zeee
How properly?? Just lika that install pump in factory 😁 and welding two different materials..
Oh yeah pick up a 5/8 split collar clamp then you can stick it in the vise and bang it in they cost 3 bucks from eBay 5 bucks shipping ouch .
btw... #FairmontProject #DarkMatterPikachu ??
Unfortunately I've been tied up in edits of this build. I hope to get back to the #FairmontProject videos soon. In fact, I'm interviewing an editor tomorrow.
You use hammers alot in your videos Eric although it is automotive repair not Automotive destruction with a hammer in almost every video
How NOT To Properly Install an Oil Pump Pick Up
No.